March 1788
Departure of the French Ships--Death of M. Le Receveur--Return of the
Supply from Norfolk Island--Description of that Place--Howe Island
discovered.
10 March 1788
On the 10th of March, the French ships sailed from Botany Bay. M. De la
Peyrouse during his stay there had set up two long boats, the frames of
which he had brought with him from Europe. There had not been much
intercourse between the French and English in this interval: both being
too busily employed to waste their time in parties of pleasure. Captain
Clonard had waited on Governor Phillip with the letters which were to be
forwarded to the French ambassador; and a few of the English officers had
gone over by land about the same time to pay a visit in Botany Bay; both
parties were of course received with politeness and hospitality. Some few
of the convicts contrived to abscond, and endeavoured to get admitted
into the French ships, but were, with great propriety, rejected. Those
vessels returned towards the north, where they were to make another
voyage.
During the stay of M. De la Peyrouse in Botany Bay, Father Le Receveur,
who had come out in the Astrolabe as a naturalist, died. His death was
occasioned by wounds which he received in the unfortunate rencounter at
the Navigator's Islands. A slight monument was erected to his memory,
with the following inscription.
Hic jacet LE RECEVEUR,
E. F. F. Minimis Galliae Sacerdos,
Physicus in circumnavigatione
Mundi,
Duce DE LA PEYROUSE,
Ob. 17 Feb. 1788.
The monument being soon after destroyed by the natives, Governor Phillip
caused the inscription to be engraved on copper, and affixed to a
neighbouring tree. M. De la Peyrouse had paid a similar tribute of
respect to the memory of Captain Clerke, at the harbour of St. Peter and
Paul in Kamtschatka.
19 March 1788
On the 19th of this month, Lieutenant Ball arrived in the Supply from
Norfolk Island. He had made that island on the 29th of February, but was
five days off the coast before a place could be found at which it was
possible to land the stores and provisions. So completely do the rocks
surround the island, that it was not easy to find a place even to land a
man. At length, however, they succeeded, having discovered at the
south-west end, a small opening in a reef that runs across a bay. Here
the people, provisions and stores were all put on shore in perfect
safety. The Commandant wrote in high spirits at the promising appearance
of his new territory; and subsequent accounts have proved, that the
opinion he then formed was not erroneous. He described Norfolk Island as
one entire wood, or rather as a garden overrun with the noblest pines, in
straightness, size, and magnitude, far superior to any he had ever seen.
Nothing can exceed the fertility of its soil. Wherever it has been since
examined, a rich black mould has been found to the depth of five or six
feet: and the grain and garden seeds which have been sown, such only
excepted as were damaged in the carriage, or by the weevil, have
vegetated with the utmost luxuriance. To prevent repetitions, it may
perhaps be best to unite in this place the accounts which have been
received of this island, though many of them will easily be perceived to
be greatly posterior to this first return of the Supply.
Norfolk Island is about seven leagues in circumference, and if not
originally formed, like many other small islands, by the eruption of
volcanic matter from the bed of the sea, must doubtless have contained a
volcano. This conclusion is formed from the vast quantity of pumice stone
which is scattered in all parts of it, and mixed with the soil. The
crater, or at least some traces of its former existence, will probably be
found at the summit of a small mountain, which rises near the middle of
the island. To this mountain the Commandant has given the name of Mount
Pitt. The island is exceedingly well watered. At, or near Mount Pitt,
rises a strong and copious stream, which flowing through a very fine
valley, divides itself into several branches, each of which retains
sufficient force to be used in turning mills: and in various parts of the
island excellent springs have been discovered.
The climate is pure, salubrious, and delightful, preserved from
oppressive heats by constant breezes from the sea, and of so mild a
temperature throughout the winter, that vegetation continues there
without interruption, one crop succeeding another. Refreshing showers
from time to time maintain perpetual verdure; not indeed of grass, for
none has yet been seen upon the island, but of the trees, shrubs, and
other vegetables which in all parts grow abundantly. On the leaves of
these, and of some kinds in particular, the sheep, hogs, and goats, not
only live, but thrive and fatten very much. To the salubrity of the air
every individual in this little colony can bear ample testimony, from the
uninterrupted state of good health which has been in general enjoyed.
When our settlers landed, there was not a single acre clear of wood in
the island, and the trees were so bound together by that kind of creeping
shrub called supple jack, interwoven in all directions, as to render it
very difficult to penetrate far among them. The Commandant, small as his
numbers were at first, by indefatigable activity soon caused a space to
be cleared sufficient for the requisite accommodations, and for the
production of esculent vegetables of all kinds in the greatest abundance.
When the last accounts arrived, three acres of barley were in a very
thriving state, and ground was prepared to receive rice and Indian corn.
In the wheat there had been a disappointment, the grain that was sown
having been so much injured by the weevil, as to be unfit for vegetation.
But the people were all at that time in commodious houses; and, according
to the declarations of Mr. King himself, in his letters to Governor
Phillip, there was not a doubt that this colony would be in a situation
to support itself entirely without assistance, in less than four years:
and with very little in the intermediate time. Even two years would be
more than sufficient for this purpose, could a proper supply of black
cattle be sent.
Fish are caught in great plenty, and in the proper season very fine
turtle. The woods are inhabited by innumerable tribes of birds, many of
them very gay in plumage. The most useful are pigeons, which are very
numerous, and a bird not unlike the Guinea fowl, except in colour, (being
chiefly white,) both of which were at first so tame as to suffer
themselves to be taken by hand. Of plants that afford vegetables for the
table, the chief are cabbage palm, the wild plantain, the fern tree, a
kind of wild spinage, and a tree which produces a diminutive fruit,
bearing some resemblance to a currant. This, it is hoped, by
transplanting and care, will be much improved in size and flavour.
But the productions which give the greatest importance to Norfolk Island
are the pines and the flax plant, the former rising to a size and
perfection unknown in other places, and promising the most valuable
supply of masts and spars for our navy in the East Indies; the latter not
less estimable for the purposes of making sail-cloth, cordage, and even
the finest manufactures; growing in great plenty, and with such
luxuriance as to attain the height of eight feet.* The pines measure
frequently one hundred and sixty, or even one hundred and eighty feet in
height, and are sometimes nine or ten feet in diameter at the bottom of
the trunk. They rise to about eighty feet without a branch; the wood is
said to be of the best quality, almost as light as that of the best
Norway masts; and the turpentine obtained from it is remarkable for
purity and whiteness. The fern tree is found also of a great height for
its species, measuring from seventy to eighty feet, and affords excellent
food for the sheep and other small cattle. A plant producing pepper, and
supposed to be the true oriental pepper, has been discovered lately in
the island, growing in great plenty; and specimens have been sent to
England, in order to ascertain this important point.
[* The flax plant is thus described in Captain Cook's first voyage, vol.
iii. p. 39. as found at New Zealand. "There is, however, a plant that
serves the inhabitants instead of hemp and flax, which excels all that
are put to the same purposes in other countries. Of this plant there are
two sorts; the leaves of both resemble those of flags, but the flowers
are smaller and their clusters more numerous; in one kind they are
yellow, and in the other a deep red. Of the leaves of these plants, with
very little preparation, they make all their common apparel; and of these
they also make their strings, lines, and cordage for every purpose, which
are so much stronger than any thing we can make with hemp, that they will
not bear a comparison. From the same plant, by another preparation, they
draw long slender fibres which shine like silk, and are as white as snow:
of these, which are also surprizingly strong, the finer clothes are made;
and of the leaves, without any other preparation than splitting them into
proper breadths and trying the strips together, they make their fishing
nets; some of which, as I have before remarked, are of an enormous size."
It is added, that it is found in every kind of soil. It is perennial, and
has a bulbous root. Some of the roots have lately been sent to England.]
The chief disadvantage experienced by those who are sent to Norfolk
Island, is the want of a good landing place. The bay which has been used
for this purpose is inclosed by a reef of coral rock, through which there
is a passage only for a boat; and during the tide of flood, when the wind
is westerly, the landing is rather dangerous. In one of the debarkations
a midshipman, who was ordered to lie within the reef, that he might
attend the boats coming to shore, imprudently suffered his own boat to
drive into the surf, and was lost, with four men. He had been once before
overset in consequence of a similar inattention, and then had lost one
man. On the coast of the island are several small bays, and there are
still hopes that a better landing place may be discovered; but the
necessity of employing all the men in sheltering themselves and the
stores from the weather, or in clearing ground for various purposes, has
hitherto prevented Mr. King from sending out any persons to complete the
examination. Should this enquiry prove unsuccessful, it is proposed to
attempt the blowing up of one or two small rocks, by which the reef is
rendered dangerous. If this expedient also should fail, the evil must be
borne with patience. In summer the landing will generally be sufficiently
secure; and seamen, who have seen the bay of Riga, in the Baltic,
declare, that it will at all times be safer for a ship to load with masts
and spars at Norfolk Island, than in that place, where so many ships are
freighted yearly.
Rats are the only quadrupeds which have been found in this island; and
from these, as well as from the ants, it was feared the crops might
suffer; but no great inconvenience has yet been experienced from them;
and proper exertions seldom fail in a short time to reduce the number of
such enemies, enough to make their depredations very inconsiderable. On
the whole, Norfolk Island certainly deserves to be considered as an
acquisition of some importance, and is likely to answer even the most
sanguine expectations. Some canoes have been found on the rocks, which
were supposed to have been driven from New Zealand; but the appearance of
a fresh cocoa nut and a small piece of manufactured wood, which seemed to
have been only a small time in the water, has lately suggested an idea
that probably some inhabited island may lie at no great distance. There
has not been as yet any opportunity to determine whether this opinion be
well founded or not.
A small island, but entirely uninhabited, was discovered by Lieutenant
Ball in his passage to Norfolk Island. In his return he examined it, and
found that the shore abounded with turtle, but there was no good
anchorage. He named it Lord Howe Island. It is in 31° 36' south latitude,
and 159° east longitude. Part of this island being very high may be seen
at the distance of sixteen leagues, and a rock to the south-east of it,
may be discerned even at eighteen leagues. In latitude 29° 25' south,
longitude 159° 59' east, a very dangerous reef has since been seen. The
ship from which it was observed was then four leagues to the southward,
and it could not at that time be ascertained how far it extends to the
northward.
To expedite the cultivation of Norfolk Island a fresh detachment was sent
thither in October, consisting of an officer and eight marines, with
thirty convicts, consisting of ten women and twenty men: Thus, there
existed on this islet, when the last accounts were transmitted,
forty-four men and sixteen women, who, having eighteen months provisions,
lived comfortably on this sequestered spot, under the prudent management
of a youthful ruler, of whose busy life the reader may wish to know all
the particulars, which at present can be authentically told.
Philip Gidley King, who had the honour to conduct the original settlers
to Norfolk Island, was born at Launceston in Cornwall, on the 23d of
April, 1758. He is the son of Philip King, of that town, draper, who
married the daughter of John Gidley, of Exeter, attorney at law. Much as
he owes to his parents, he is indebted for his scholastic learning to Mr.
Bailey at Yarmouth. He derives, probably, some advantages from making an
early choice of his profession. At the age of twelve, he went to the East
Indies on board the Swallow frigate, Captain Shirley, by whom he was
rated a midshipman. From this station he returned to England, at the end
of five years, with much knowledge of his business, and some acquaintance
with the world. In 1775, he entered upon real service; and has continued
in active employment from that period to this great epoch of his life. He
went to Virginia with Captain Bellew, in the Liverpool, during the year
1775; with whom he continued till the shipwreck of that frigate in
Delaware Bay. And having entered on board the Princess Royal, in October
1778, he was made a Lieutenant by Admiral Byron, in the Renown, on the
26th of November following. He returned to England in the subsequent
year; and served in the Channel on board the Kite cutter, and Ariadne
frigate, till the beginning of 1783. With Captain Phillip he went to the
East Indies, as Lieutenant of the Europe, in January 1783; from whence he
returned on the restoration of complete peace, in May 1784. In this
service it was, that Phillip and King became acquainted with the merit of
each other. And when the expedition to New South Wales was projected,
King was appointed Lieutenant of the Sirius, on the 25th of October,
1786, at the same time that Phillip was nominated Commander of the
voyage.