BHAMO, MANDALAY, RANGOON, AND CALCUTTA.
The finest residence in Bhamo is, of course, the American mission.
America nobly supports her self-sacrificing and devoted sons who go
forth to arrest the "awful ruin of souls" among the innumerable millions
of Asia, who are "perishing without hope, having sinned without law."
The missionary in charge told me that he labours with a "humble heart to
bring a knowledge of the Saving Truth to the perishing heathen among the
Kachins." His appointment is one which even a worldly-minded man might
covet. I will give an instance of his methods. This devoted evangelist
told me that a poor woman, a Kachin Christian, in whose welfare he felt
deep personal interest, was, he greatly feared, dying from
blood-poisoning at a small Christian village one hour's ride up the
river from Bhamo; and he had little doubt that some surgical
interference in her case would save her life. I at once offered to go
and see her. I had received great kindness from many American
missionaries in China, and it would give me great pleasure, I said, if I
could be of any service.
The missionary professed to be grateful for my offer, but, instead of
arranging to go that afternoon, named seven o'clock the following
morning as the hour when he would call for me to take me to the village.
At the time appointed I was ready; I waited, but no missionary came.
There was a slight drizzle, sufficient to prevent his going to the sick
woman but not sufficient to deter him from going to market to the
Irrawaddy steamer, where I accidentally met him. So far from being
abashed when he saw me, he took the occasion to tell me what he will, I
know, pardon me for thinking an inexcusable untruth. He had written, he
said, to the poor woman telling her, dying as he believed her to be, to
come down to Bhamo by boat to see me.
In Bhamo I stayed in the comfortable house of the Deputy Commissioner,
and was treated with the most pleasant hospitality. To my regret, the
Deputy Commissioner was down the river, and I did not see him. He is
regarded as one of the ablest men in the service. His rise has been
rapid, and he was lately invested with the C.I.E.--there seems, indeed,
to be no position in Burma that he might not aspire to. In his absence
his office was being administered by the Assistant Commissioner, a
courteous young Englishman, who gave me my first experience of the Civil
Service. I could not but envy the position of this young fellow, and
marvel at the success which attends our method of administering the
Indian Empire. Here was a young man of twenty-four, acting as governor
with large powers over a tract of country of hundreds of square miles--a
new country requiring for its proper administration a knowledge of law,
of finance, of trade, experience of men, and ability to deal with the
conflicting interests of several native races. Superior to all other
authorities, civil and military, in his district, he was considered fit
to fill this post--and success showed his fitness--because a year or two
before he had been one of forty crammed candidates out of 200 who had
taken the highest places in a series of examinations in Latin, English,
mathematics, &c. With the most limited experience of human life, he had
obtained his position in exactly the same way that a Chinese Mandarin
does his--by competitive examination in subjects which, even less than
in the case of the Chinese, had little bearing upon his future work; and
now, like a Chinese Mandarin, "there are few things he isn't."
On the face of it no system appears more preposterous; in its results no
system was ever more successful. The Assistant Commissioner early learns
self-reliance, decision, and ability to wield authority; and he can
always look forward to the time when he may become Chief Commissioner.
There is a wonderful mixture of types in Bhamo. Nowhere in the world,
not even in Macao, is there a greater intermingling of races. Here live
in cheerful promiscuity Britishers and Chinese, Shans and Kachins, Sikhs
and Madrasis, Punjabis, Arabs, German Jews and French adventurers,
American missionaries and Japanese ladies.
There are many ruined pagodas and some wooden temples which, however, do
not display the higher features of Burmese architecture. There is a
club, of course; a polo and football ground, and a cricket ground.
Inside the fort, among the barracks, there is a building which has a
double debt to pay, being a theatre at one end and a church at the
other, the same athletic gentleman being the chief performer at both
places. But, at its best, Bhamo is a forlorn, miserable, and wretched
station, where all men seem to regard it as their first duty to the
stranger to apologise to him for being there.
The distinguished Chinese scholar and traveller, E. Colborne Baber, who
wrote the classic book of travel in Western China, was formerly British
Resident in Bhamo. He spoke Chinese unusually well and was naturally
proud of his accomplishment. Now the ordinary Chinaman has this feature
in common with many of the European races, that, if he thinks you cannot
speak his language, he _will_ not understand you, even if you speak to
him with perfect correctness of idiom and tone. And Baber had an
experience of this which deeply hurt his pride. Walking one day in the
neighbourhood of Bhamo, he met two Chinese--strangers--and began
speaking to them in his best Mandarin. They heard him with unmoved
stolidity, and, when he had finished, one turned to his companion and
said, as if struck with his discovery, "the language of these foreign
barbarians sounds not unlike our own!"
In Bhamo I had the pleasure of meeting the three members of the Boundary
Commission who represented us in some preliminary delimitation questions
with the Chinese Government. A better choice could not have been made.
M. Martini, a Frenchman, has been twenty years in Upper Burma, and is
our D.S.P. (District Superintendent of Police). Mr. Warry, the Chinese
adviser to the Burmese Government, is one of the ablest men who ever
graduated from the Consular Staff in China; while Captain H. R. Davies,
of the Staff Corps, who is on special duty in the Intelligence
Department, is not only an exceptionally able officer, but is the most
accomplished linguist of Upper Burma. These were the three
representatives.
I sold my pony in Bhamo. I was exceedingly sorry to part with it, for it
had come with me 800 miles in thirty days, over an unusually difficult
road, at great variations of altitude, and amid many changes of climate.
And it was always in good spirit, brave and hardy, carrying me as surely
the last twenty miles as it had the first twenty. Yet, when I came to
sell it, I was astonished to learn how many were its defects. Its
height, which was 12.3 in Nampoung, had shrunk three days later to 11.3
in Bhamo. This one subaltern told me who came to look at the pony with
the view, he said, of making me an offer. Another officer proved to me
that the off foreleg was gone hopelessly; a third confirmed this
diagnosis of his friend, and in a clinical lecture demonstrated that the
poor beast was spavined, and that its near hind frog was rotten, "as all
Chinese ponies' are," he added. One of the mounted constabulary, a smart
officer, fortunately discovered in time that the pony was a roarer;
while the Hungarian Israelite who lends help on notes of hand,
post-obits, personal applications, and other insecurities, and is on
terms of friendly intimacy with most of the garrison, when about to make
an offer, found, to his great regret, that the pony's hind legs were
even more defective than the fore. The end of it was that I had to sell
the pony--for what it cost me. I am indebted to the Reverend Mr.
Roberts, of the American Baptist Mission, for helping me to sell my
pony. Mr. Roberts has a pious gift for buying ponies and selling
them--at a profit. He offered me 40 rupees for my pony. I mentioned this
offer at the Bhamo Club, when a civilian present at once offered me 50
rupees for the pony; he did not know the pony, he explained, but--he
knew Roberts.
In a steamer of the Irrawaddy Flotilla Company I came down the river
from Bhamo to Mandalay. When I left the Commissioner's bungalow, the
entire staff of the establishment and of some neighbouring bungalows
assembled to do me honour, creeping up to me, and with deep humility
carrying each an article of my possessions from my room down to the
porch. There were the _dhobie_ and _bearer_, the waterman with his
goatskin waterbag, the washerman who washed my blue Chinese garments as
white as his own, the _syce_ who did not collect grass, the cook who
sent me ten bad eggs in three days, and the Christian Madrasi, the
laziest rascal in Bhamo, who early confessed to me his change of faith
and the transformation it had effected in the future prospects of his
soul. There was the Burmese watchman, and the English-speaking Burmese
clerk, and the coolie who went to the bazaar for me, and many others.
They lined the stairs as I came out, and placed their hands reverently
to their foreheads when I passed by. It was pleasant to see such
disinterested evidence of their good will, and my only regret was that I
could not reward them according to their deserts. But to the Chinese
coolie who was grinning to see my paltry outfit carried by so many
hands, and who gathered together all I possessed and swung off with it
down past the temples to the steamer landing in the native city, I gave
a day's pay, and cheerfully--though he then asked for more.
In Mandalay I was taken to the club, and passed many hours there reading
the home papers and wandering through its gilded halls. Few clubs in the
world have such a sumptuous setting as this, for it is installed in the
throne-room and chambers and reception-halls of the palace of King
Theebaw.
In the very centre of the building is a seven-storeyed spire,
"emblematic of royalty and religion," which the Burmese look upon as the
"exact centre of creation." The reception-hall at the foot of the
throne is now the English chapel; the reading-room with its gilded daïs
where the Queen sat on her throne, with its lofty roof, its pillars of
teak, and walls all ablaze with gilding, was the throne-room of
Theebaw's chief Queen.
Mandalay is largely Chinese, and on the outskirts of the city there is a
handsome temple which bears the charming inscription, so characteristic
of the Chinese, "enlightenment finds its way even among the outer
barbarians."
There is a military hospital with two nursing sisters, highly trained
ladies from Bart.'s. Australians are now so widely distributed over the
world that it did not surprise me to find that one of the two sisters
comes from Melbourne.
From Mandalay I went by train to Rangoon, where I lived in a pretty
villa among noble trees on the lower slope of the hill which is crowned
with the famous golden pagoda, the "Shway-dagon," the most sacred temple
of Indo-China. We looked out upon the park and the royal lake. I early
went to the Intelligence Department and saw Major Couchman. In his
office I met the chief Chinese interpreter, a Chinaman with a rare
genius for languages. He is a native of Fuhkien province, and, of
course, speaks the Fuhkien dialect; he knows also Cantonese and
Mandarin. In addition, he possesses French, Hindustani, Burmese, Shan,
and Sanscrit, and, in an admirable translation which he has made of a
Chinese novel into English, he frequently quotes Latin. Fit assistant he
would make to Max Müller; his services command a high salary.
The Chinese in Rangoon are a predominating force in the prosperity of
the city. They have deeply impressed their potentiality upon the
community. "It seems almost certain," says a great authority, perhaps
_the_ greatest authority on Burma--J. G. Scott (Shway Yoe)--"that in no
very long time Burma, or, at any rate, the large trading towns of Burma,
will be for all practical purposes absorbed by the Chinese traders, just
as Singapore and Penang are virtually Chinese towns. Unless some
marvellous upheaval of energy takes place in the Burmese character, the
plodding, unwearying Chinaman is almost certainly destined to overrun
the country to the exclusion of the native race."
The artisans of Rangoon are largely Chinese, and the carpenters
exclusively so. The Chinese marry Burmese women, and, treating their
wives with the consideration which the Chinaman invariably extends to
his foreign wife in a foreign country, they are desired as husbands even
above the Burmans. Next to the British, the only indispensable element
in the community is now the Chinese.
The best known figure in Burma is the Reverend John Ebenezer Marks,
D.D., Principal of the St. John's College of the S.P.G. Dr. Marks has
been thirty-five years in Burma, is still hale and hearty, brimful of
reminiscences, and is one of the most amusing companions in the world. I
think it was he who converted King Theebaw to Christianity. His school
is a curiosity. It is an anthropological institute with perhaps the
finest collection of human cross-breeds in existence. It is away out
beyond the gaol, in large wooden buildings set in extensive playgrounds.
Here he has 550 students, all but four of whom are Asiatics of fifteen
different nationalities--Chinese, Karens, Kachins, Shans, and a varied
assortment of Hindoos and Malays, both pure and blended with the native
Burmese. All the different races represented in Burma have intermarried
with the native Burmese, and the resulting half-breeds have crossed
with other half-breeds. Most of the better class Eurasian boys
(European-Asian) are educated here, some being supported by their
fathers, some not. The former Dr. Marks ingeniously calls after their
mothers; the latter, who have been neglected, retain the names (when
they are known), of their fathers. It is amusing to meet among the
latter the names of so many brave Englishmen who, in the earlier days
when morals had not attained the strictness that now characterises them,
gallantly served their country in Burma.
No woman in the world is more catholic in her tastes than the Burmese.
She bestows her loves as variously as the Japanese. She marries with
equal readiness Protestant or Catholic, Turk, Infidel, or Jew. She
clings cheerfully to whichever will support her; but above all she
desires the Chinaman. No one treats her so well as the Chinaman. If she
is capable of experiencing the emotion of love for any being outside her
own race, she feels it for the Chinaman, who is of a cognate race to her
own, is hard-working, frugal, and industrious, permits her to live in
idleness, and delights her with presents, loving her children with that
affection which the Chinaman has ever been known to bestow upon his
offspring. The Chino-Burmese is not quite the equal of his father, but
he is markedly superior to the Burmese. The best half-caste in the East
is, of course, the Eurasian of British parentage. Englishmen going to
Burma are, as a rule, picked men, physically powerful, courageous,
energetic, and enterprising; for it is the possession of these qualities
which has sent them to the East, either for business or in the service
of their country. And their Burmese companions--of course I speak of a
condition of things which is gradually ceasing to exist--are all picked
women, selected for the comeliness of their persons and the sweetness of
their manners.
After a stay of two or three weeks in Rangoon, I went round by the
British India steamer to Calcutta. Ill fortune awaited me here. The
night after my arrival I was laid down with remittent fever, and a few
days later I nearly died. The reader will, I am sure, pardon me for
obtruding this purely personal matter. But, as I opened this book with a
testimony of gratitude to the distinguished surgeon who cut a spear
point from my body, where nine months before it had been thrust by a
savage in New Guinea, so should I be sorry to close this narrative
without recording a word of thanks to those who befriended me in
Calcutta.
I was a stranger, knowing only two men in all Calcutta; but they were
friends in need, who looked after me during my illness with the greatest
kindness. A leading doctor of Calcutta attended me, and treated me with
unremitting attention and great skill. To Mr. John Bathgate and Mr.
Maxwell Prophit and to Dr. Arnold Caddy I owe a lasting debt of
gratitude. And what shall I say of that kind nurse--dark of complexion,
but most fair to look upon--whose presence in the sick room almost
consoled me for being ill? Bless her dear heart! Even hydrochlorate of
quinine tasted sweet from her fingers.
THE END.
[Illustration: CHINESE MAP OF CHUNGKING.]
INDEX.
Adridge, Dr., of Ichang, 10
d'Amade, Capt., in Yunnan, 150
Ancestral worship, 67
Anderson, Dr. J., cited, 274, 277
Anpien, 79
Anti-foreign riots, 9, 54, 268
Arsenal in Yunnan, 175
Augustine mission, 6
Baber, E. C., cited, 51, 90, 239, 267;
in Yunnan, 149;
in Bhamo, 285;
on distances, 187
Ball, Dyer, cited, 113, 224
Baller, Rev. F. W., cited, 113
Banks and banking, 95, 96, 163, 164
Barrow, Sir John, cited, 101, 110, 191
Béraud, Père, of Suifu, 63, 65
Bhamo (Singai), 279-287
Bible Christian mission, in Chaotong, 99;
in Tongchuan, 121
Blakiston, Capt., cited, 173
Blodget, Rev. Dr., cited, 123
Boell, M., of _Le Temps_, in Yunnan, 150
Bonvalot, G., in Yunnan, 149
Bridges, some notable, 26, 83, 85, 118, 186, 233, 240, 242
Broomhall, B., cited, 66, 67
Browne, Col. Horace, 246, 267, 268
Bugs in China and Spain, 55, 56
Burdon, Bishop, cited, 123
Cameron, Dr., missionary traveller, 213
Cantonese, 207;
in Australia, 222-224
Caravans of cotton, 226, 271
Carruthers, A. G. H., assistant commissioner of customs, Chungking, 51
Cash currency of China, 161, 162
Chairen, the policeman of China, 77, 190
Chang-chen Nien, Brigadier-General, Tengyueh, 181, 246
Chang Chi Tung, the viceroy, 3, 4
Chang-show-hsien, 33
Chang Yan Miun, the giant of Yunnan, 184, 185
Chaochow, 200
Chaotong, the city of, 97-116;
its converts, 178
Chehki, 137
Ch'en, merchant prince, 29, 30
Chennan-chow, 192
Chentu, city, 62;
river, 62
Chiang, telegraph clerk, Yunnan, 168
China Inland Mission, in Hankow, 6;
in Wanhsien, 27-29;
in Chungking, 49;
in Suifu, 65, 73, 75;
in Yunnan, 177;
in Tali, 213-216;
results in Yunnan province, 178;
in China generally, 180;
its teaching, 65-71
Chinese, in Australia, 222-224;
in Burma, 288-290
Chinese, avarice, 79;
benevolence, 29;
beauty of women, 13;
cards, visiting, 181, 182;
characters, reverence for, 170;
courtesy, 255;
desire to have children, 197, 198;
etiquette, 230;
friendliness, 140;
good nature, 117;
gratitude, 27, 28;
inaccuracy, 99;
indifference to pain, 104,
to sound, 74, 169;
irreverence, 195;
justification by works, 169;
kindness to children, 113, 290;
laughter, 195;
love at first sight, 153-155;
politeness, 196, 197, 201, 255;
respect for old age, 117, 198;
thoughtfulness, 189;
true felicity, 180;
wonderful memory, 167, 168
Chipatzu, 22
Chueh, telegraph operator and interpreter, 248
Chungking, city of, 34-39
Chuhsing-fu, 187
Clarke, Mr. G. W., missionary traveller, 213
Clarke, Marcus, cited, 210
Coal on the Yangtse, 32
Coffins in China, 92, 137, 265
Colquhoun, A. R., in Yunnan, 150
Conversion, instances of rapid, 179
Converts, in China, 5;
Wanhsien, 28;
Chungking, 49;
Suifu, 65;
Chaotong, 99;
Tongchuan, 121;
Yunnan City, 177;
Yunnan Province, 178, 179;
Talifu, 214
Cooke, G. W., cited, 46, 176
Coolies' enormous loads, 90, 91
Couchman, Major, cited, 274;
in Rangoon, 288
Crockery, 118, 119
Customs, China Inland (likin-barriers), 21, 48, 97, 118, 242, 272, 277
Customs, Imperial Maritime, 13, 25, 35-38
Davenport, Dr. Cecil, medical missionary, Chungking, 49
Davies, Capt. H. R., Bhamo, 285
Davis, Sir J. F., cited, 57
Dedeken, Père, of Kuldja, 150
De Gorostarza, Père, Provicaire in Yunnan, 172
De Guignes, cited, 140
Distances in China, 141, 278
Doctors in China, 107-110; mule-doctor, 145
Doolittle, Rev. Justus, cited, 69, 130, 170
Doudart de la Grée, in Yunnan, 149
Douglas, R. K., cited, 127
Dudgeon, Dr. J., cited, 112, 130
Du Halde, cited, 90, 108, 176
Dymond, Rev. Frank, missionary, Chaotong, 98, 99
Eclipse of the Sun, 125, 126
Edkins, Rev. Dr. J., cited, 130
Eitel, Rev. Dr. E. J., cited, 129
Excoffier, Père, of Yunnan, 146
Famine in Chaotong, 99;
in Tongchuan, 127;
on the way to Yunnan, 137-144
Fan-yien-tsen, 82
Farrar, Ven. Archdeacon, cited, 191
Feng-hsiang, Gorge, 21, 30
Fengshui-ling, 240
Feng-tu-hsien, 33
Fenouil, Monseigneur, of Yunnan, 171, 172
Fraser, Consul E. H., Chungking, 45
Fuchou, 33
_Fungshui_, 157, 175
Fung-yen-tung, 205
Fu-to-kuan, fort of, 52
Ganai, Shan town, 254-256
Gates of a Chinese city, 174
Geary, H. Grattan, cited, 43
Giles, H. A., cited, 129
Gill, Mr. Hope, missionary, Wanhsien, 27
Gill, Capt. W., cited, 17, 90
Girls in China, 13, 14, 139, 140;
bought, 155;
sold, 100, 101;
price of, 100
Goitre, 101, 145, 155, 185;
its prevalence, 227, 228
Gold, on the Yangtse, 23;
in Yunnan, 158-160
Graham, Mr., missionary, Yunnan, 177, 219
Grosvenor Mission in Yunnan, 149
Guinness, Miss G., cited, 213
Haas, M., 42-44
Hankow, the city of, 3-8
Hanyang, 3
Heads of criminals, 192;
of dacoits, 273, 274
Hirth, Dr. F., Commissioner of Customs, 40
Hobson, H. E., cited, 31
Hokiangpu, 222
Hongmuho, 270, 275-277
Hosie, A. M., cited, 17;
in Yunnan, 149
Hsiakwan, 200, 219, 221
Hsintan rapids, 15
Huanglien-pu, 226;
goitre at, 228
Huc, Abbé, cited, 176
Iangkai, 144
Ichang, 9
Infanticide in China, 129, 130;
in Chaotong, 101;
in Tongchuan, 129
Inquirers at Wanhsien, 28;
Yunnan, 177;
Tali, 215
Iremonger, Capt. R. G., Nampoung, 275
Jensen, Mr. C., in Yunnan, 147;
experiences in China, 156, 157;
on distances, 187;
to construct line to Burma, 238
Jesuit Missionaries in China, 123, 173, 176
John, Rev. Dr. Griffith, cited, 130
Kachins ("protected barbarians"), 254, 259, 270, 273, 274
Kanhliang, Shan chief, 245
Kaw Hong Beng, Private Secretary to Viceroy, 4, 5
Kiangti, 117
Kong-shan, 141
Kueichow on the Yangtse, 18
Kuhtsing, its converts, 178
Kung Chao-yuan, Minister to Great Britain, 73
Kung-t'-an-ho, 33
Kweichou-fu, 21
Lacouperie, Terrien de, cited, 257
Lanchihsien, 60
Laokai, 148, 159
Laowatan river, 79; town, 85
Lay, G. T., cited, 13, 45
Leitoupo, 139
Lenz, F. G., in Yunnan, 150, 151
Li Han Chang, in Yunnan, 149
Li Hung Chang, 72, 149;
on opium, 46, 190
_Ling chi_, 69, 231, 232
Li Pi Chang, Telegraph Manager, Yunnan, 151-153, 181, 184
Li-Sieh-tai, of Tengyueh, 246
Little, A. J., cited, 13, 122;
in Chungking, 51
Little river, 40, 44, 52
Liu, Colonel, of Chinese Boundary Commission, 244, 245, 255
Liu, the Viceroy, 72
Lockhart, Dr. W., cited, 28, 130
Loh-Ta-Jen, Chentai at Ichang, 9
London Missionary Society, Hankow, 6;
Chungking, 49
Lorain, Père, Procureur in Chungking, 50
Luchow, 60
Lu-feng-hsien, 186
Luho, 187
MacCarthy, Justin, cited, 210
MacGowan, Rev. Dr. D. J., cited, 130
Maire, Père, of Tongchuan, 133
Mander, S. S., cited, 47, 191
Manyuen (Manwyne), 264-269
Marco Polo, cited, 238;
in Yunnan, 149
Margary, A. R., cited, 266;
in Yunnan, 149, 246;
his murder, 264-269
Marks, Rev. Dr. J. E., 289, 290
Martin, Rev. Dr. W. A. P., cited, 67, 170
Martini, M. (D.S.P.), in Bhamo, 285
Mason, Rev. G. L., cited, 28
Mateer, Rev. C. W., cited, 28, 140
Meadows, T. T., cited, 113, 154
Medhurst, Rev. W. H., cited, 87 (wrongly written "Meadows"), 197
Medhurst, Sir W. H., cited, 5, 45, 108
Medicines in China, 83, 107-110
Mekong river, 221, 233, 234
Mencius, cited, 198
Methodist Episcopalian Mission, 40, 54
Michie, A., cited, 124
Missionaries, success in China, 5;
numbers in Hankow, 6
Missions Étrangères de Paris, 6, 64, 65, 105, 122, 146, 171
Mi Tsang Gorge, 17
Mohammedans, and opium, 112;
in Chaotong, 113, 114;
near Tongchuan, 128;
in Tali, 216;
insurrection, 145, 185, 187, 203;
superiority, 216;
the milkman, 217
Momien (Tengyueh), the city of, 243-249
Money, changing, 95;
remittance of, 95
Morgan, C. L., cited, 66, 70
Morphia, imported, 48, 49
Moule, Bishop, cited, 130
Moutot, Père, Provicaire in Suifu, 63, 65
Muirhead, Rev. W., cited, 123
Mungtze, 148-150, 159
Myothit (Santien), 278, 279
Nampoung, encampment, 270, 275-278
Nantien, fort of, 250, 251
Opium, imports and exports of, 46-48;
in Hankow, 3;
in Chungking, 45;
in Suifu, 72, 73;
demoralising influence of, 41;
---- refuge, Chungking, 41;
---- ports, 33;
poisoning by, 111, 112, 212;
my chairbearers and, 94;
my coolie and, 219;
appeal for suppression, 190, 191
d'Orleans, Prince Henri, cited, 148;
in Yunnan, 149
Parricide in China, 69
Pearson, Prof. C. H., cited, 186, 224
_Peking Gazette_, cited, 53, 169, 231
Pen, telegraph manager, Tengyueh, 244
Pêng Yü-lin, high commissioner, cited, 192
Pidgin-English, 3, 9, 18
Piercy, Rev. G., cited, 191
Ping-shan-pa, 13
Pits for the dead, 133
Plague, bubonic, in Yunnan, 213
Pollard, Rev. S., missionary, Tongchuan, 121
Poppy, 37, 57, 78, 84, 118, 142;
surreptitiously grown, 46
Post-offices, 95, 96
Prisons in China, 209-211
Punishments in China, 103, 104, 136, 239
Pupêng, 193
Pupiao, 236;
my men die at, 281
Reade, Charles, cited, 209
Reed, Miss M., cited, 191
Reid, Rev. G., cited, 41, 192
"Rice Christians," 6
Roberts, Rev. Mr., missionary, Bhamo, 286
Rockhill, W. W., cited, 280, 281
St. Thomas, visit to Suifu, 65
Salween river, 237-240
Santa, Shan town, 259-263
Schehleh, 272, 277
Scott, J. G., cited, 287, 289
Sengki-ping, 84
Settee, fort of, 274, 275
Shachiaokai, 192
Shang-kwan, 204
Shans, 240, 252, 254, 256-269
Shih-pao-chai, 32
Shuichai, 234
Shweli river, 242
Silver in Yunnan, 161, 163;
in Tengyueh, 249
Singai (Bhamo), 218
Sladen, Major, 267
Small feet, 14, 101, 153
Small-pox, 212, 213
Smith, Rev. A. H., cited, 41, 269
Smith, Rev. John, missionary, Talifu, 202, 209, 214, 219
Smith, Mr. Stanley P., his rapid conversion of a Chinaman, 279
Soldiers, their weapons, 234, 241, 249;
fierceness of aspect, 263;
courage, 271
"Squeezing" in China, 151, 152
Stead, W. T., cited, 152
Suicide by opium, 111;
land of, 111, 112
Suifu, the city of, 62-75
Sutherland, Rev. Dr. A., cited, 123, 173
Swinburne, A. C., cited, 14
Szechuen, "country of the clouds," 82;
population, 186;
contrasted with Yunnan, 85-88;
Catholic stronghold, 64
Taipingkai, Shan town, 263
Taiping-pu, 226
Taiping river, 246, 250, 252, 258, 278, 279
Tak-wan-hsien, 92, 94, 96
Tak-wan-leo, 92
Talichao, 234
Talifu, the city of, 202-219;
its converts, 178
Tanto, 82
Taoshakwan, 86
Tao[=u]en, 116
Tawantzu, 92
Taylor, Rev. Dr. J. Hudson, cited, 46, 67, 68, 70, 179;
on opium, 46;
on ancestral worship, 67;
Chinese in lake of fire, 67, 68
Tchih-li-pu, 86
Telegraph, in Yunnan, 147;
in Tali, 208;
in Yungchang, 234;
in Tengyueh, 243-248;
system of telegraphing Chinese characters, 166-168;
telegraphic transfers, 95, 159
Tengyueh (Momien), the city of, 243-249
"Term question," 122, 123
Theatre in Tengyueh, 246, 247
Tommé, M., in Yunnan, 150
Tongchuan, the city of, 120-134;
its converts, 178
Tonquin, 148, 149
Tragedy of the Tali valley, 220, 221
Tremberth, Rev. Mr., missionary, Chaotong, 101
Tsen Yü-ying, the cruel Viceroy, 267
Tung-lo-hsia, 35
Turner, Rev. F. Storrs, cited, 46
Tu Wen Hsiu, the Mohammedan Sultan, 203
Ullathorne, Bishop, cited, 210
Vial, Père, of Yunnan, 150
Voltaire, cited, 173
Von Richthofen, cited, 90
Wanhsien, the city of, 24-31
Warren, Consul Pelham, of Hankow, 8
Warry, Mr., Chinese adviser to the Burmese Government, 229, 261, 285
Wherry, Rev. J., cited, 123
Widows, virtuous, 52, 53, 78
Williams, Rev. Dr. S. Wells, cited, 47, 110, 126, 197, 267
Williamson, Rev. Dr. A. W., cited, 70, 223
Wong, banker in Yunnan, 163-166
Wong-wen-shao, the Viceroy, 180, 181
Woodin, Rev. S. F., cited, 66, 179
Woolston, Miss S. H., cited, 14
Wuchang, 3
Wuntho Sawbwa, 245, 253, 254
Wushan Gorge, 20
Wushan-hsien, 20
Yangki river, 221
"_Yang kweitze_", 18, 25, 228, 229
Yanglin, 145
Yangpi, 224
Yang Yu-ko, Imperialist general, 203, 204
Yeh, of the Chinese Boundary Commission, 224
Yehtan rapid, 19
Yenwanshan, 193
Ying-wu-kwan, 193
Yuenchuan, 60
Yungchang, the city of, 234, 235
Yunnan, the city of, 147-183;
its converts, 177;
the province of, 85-88;
its converts, 178
Yunnanhsien, 196
Yunnan Yeh, 193
[Illustration: ROUGH SKETCH-MAP OF CHINA AND BURMA SHOWING AUTHOR'S
ROUTE FROM SHANGHAI TO RANGOON.]
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| the list of illustrations retained, unless noted above. |
| As the illustrations were not included with the original |
| scans but were located during processing of this book, |
| where there have been small differences the List of |
| Illustrations has generally been preferred. |
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| One instance of Taouen with an unclear mark above the |
| /u/, one instance of Tao[=u]en. This has been left as is. |
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| cent., s. ) has been standardised. |
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End of Project Gutenberg's An Australian in China, by George Ernest Morrison