CHAPTER XI.

THE CITY OF TONGCHUAN, WITH SOME REMARKS UPON INFANTICIDE.

When I entered Tongchuan the town was in commotion; kettledrums and

tomtoms were beating, and crackers and guns firing; the din and clatter

was continuous and deafening. An eclipse of the sun was commencing--it

was the 6th of April--"the sun was being swallowed by the Dog of

Heaven," and the noise was to compel the monster to disgorge its prey.

Five months ago the Prefect of the city had been advised of the

impending disaster, and it was known that at a certain hour he would

publicly intervene with Heaven to avert from the city the calamity of

darkness. I myself saw with my own eyes the wonderful power of this man.

The sun was darkened when I went to the Prefect's yamen. A crowd was

already gathered in the court. At the foot of the steps in the open air,

a loosely built framework of wood ten feet high was standing, displaying

on its vertex a yellow disc of paper inscribed with the characters for

"voracity."

As we waited the sun became gradually clearer, when, just as the moon

was disappearing across its edge, the Prefect in full dress, stepped

from his yamen into the court, accompanied by the city magistrate and a

dozen city fathers. Every instrument of discord was still clanging over

the city. Then all these men of weight walked solemnly three times

round the scaffold, and halted three times, while the Prefect went down

on his knees, and did obeisance with nine kotows to the rickety frame

and its disc of yellow paper. There was almost immediate answer to his

prayer. With a sigh of relief we saw the lingering remnant of darkness

disappear, and the midday sun shone full and bright. Then the Prefect

retired, his suite dividing to let him pass, and we all went home

blessing the good man whose intercession had saved the town from

darkness. For there can be little doubt, I hope, that it is due to the

action of this Prefect that the sun is shining to-day in Tongchuan. The

Chinese might well ask if any barbarian missionary could do as he did.

Eclipses in China are foretold by the Government almanac published

annually in Peking by a bureau of astrology attached to the Board of

Rites. The almanac is a Government monopoly, and any infraction of its

copyright is a penal offence. "It monopolises the management of the

superstitions of the people, in regard to the fortunate or unlucky

conjunctions of each day and hour. No one ventures to be without it,

lest he be liable to the greatest misfortunes and run the imminent

hazard of undertaking important events on blackballed days."

The Chinese almanac is much more comprehensive than ours, for even

eclipses are foretold that never happen. Should an error take place in

their almanac, and an expected eclipse not occur, the royal astronomers

are not disconcerted--far from it; they discover in their error reason

for rejoicing; they then congratulate the Emperor that "the heavens have

dispensed with this omen of ill-luck in his favour." For eclipses

forebode disaster, and every thoughtful Chinaman who has heard of the

present rebellion of the Japanese must attribute the reverses caused by

the revolt to the eclipse of April 6th, occurring immediately before the

insurrection.

Tongchuan is one of the most charming towns I have ever visited; it is

probably the cleanest city in China, and the best governed. Its prefect

is a man of singular enlightenment, who rules with a justice that is

rarely known in China. His people regard him as something more than

mortal. Like Confucius "his ear is an obedient organ for the reception

of truth." Like the Confucian Superior Man "his dignity separates him

from the crowd; being reverent he is beloved; being loyal he is

submitted to; and being faithful he is trusted. By his word he directs

men, and by his conduct he warns them."

For several years he was attached to the Embassy in Japan, and he boasts

that he has made Tongchuan as clean a city as any to be found in the

empire of the Mikado. The yamen is a model of neatness. Painted on the

outflanking wall there is the usual huge representation of the fabulous

monster attempting to swallow the sun--the admonition against

extortion--and probably the only magistrate in China who does not stand

in need of the warning is the Prefect of Tongchuan.

Prices in Tongchuan at the time of my visit were high and food was

scarce. It was difficult to realise that men at that moment were dying

of starvation in the pretty town. Rice cost 400 cash for the same

quantity that in a good season can be bought for 60 cash; maize was 300

cash the sheng, whereas the normal price is only 40 cash. Sugar was 15

cash the cake instead of 6 cash the cake, and so on in all things. Poppy

is not grown in the valley to the same extent as hitherto, because

poppy displaces wheat and beans, and the people have need of all the

land they can spare to grow breadstuffs. In the other half of the year,

rice, maize, and tobacco are grown together on the plain, and at the

same season potatoes, oats, and buckwheat are grown in the hills.

Part of the plain is permanently under water, but it was the drought in

the winter and the rains in the summer of successive years that caused

the famine. There are no Mohammedans in the town--there have been none

since the rebellion--but there are many small Mohammedan villages across

the hills. No district in China is now more peaceful than the Valley of

Tongchuan. The Yangtse River--"The River of Golden Sand"--is only two

days distant, but it is not navigable even by Chinese boatmen. Sugarcane

grows in the Yangtse Valley in little pockets, and it is from there that

the compressed cakes of brown sugar seen in all the markets of Western

Yunnan are brought. Coal comes from a mine two or three days inland;

white-wax trees provide an important industry; the hills to the west

contain the most celebrated copper mines in the empire.

The cash of Tongchuan are very small and inferior, 2000 being equivalent

to one tael, whereas in Chaotong, 110 miles away, the cash vary from

1260 to 1640 the tael. Before the present Prefect took office the cash

were more debased still, no less than 4000 being then counted as one

tael, but the Prefect caused all these cash to be withdrawn from

circulation.

Unlike Chaotong, no children are permitted to be sold in the city, but

during last year no less than 3000 children (the figures are again

Chinese) were carried through the town on their way from Chaotong to the

capital. The edict of the Prefect which forbids the selling of children

increases the cases of infanticide, and in time of famine there are few

mothers among the starving poor who can truthfully assert that they have

never abandoned any of their offspring.

The subject of infanticide in China has been discussed by a legion of

writers and observers; and the opinion they come to seems to be

generally that the prevalence of the crime, except in seasons of famine,

has been enormously overstated. The prevalent idea with us Westerns

appears to be, that the murder of their children, especially of their

female children, is a kind of national pastime with the Chinese, or, at

the best, a national peculiarity. Yet it is open to question whether the

crime, excepting in seasons of famine, is, in proportion to the

population, more common in China than it is in England. H. A. Giles of

H.B.M. Chinese Consular Service, one of the greatest living authorities

on China, says "I am unable to believe that infanticide prevails to any

great extent in China.... In times of famine or rebellion, under stress

of exceptional circumstances, infanticide may possibly cast its shadow

over the empire, but as a general rule I believe it to be no more

practised in China than in England, France, the United States and

elsewhere." (_Journal, China Branch R.A.S._, 1885, p. 28.)

G. Eugène Simon, formerly French Consul in China, declares that

"infanticide is a good deal less frequent in China than in Europe

generally, and particularly in France." A statement that inferentially

receives the support of Dr. E. J. Eitel. (_China Review_, xvi., 189.)

The prevailing impression as to the frequency of infanticide in China is

derived from the statements of missionaries, who, no doubt

unintentionally, exaggerate the prevalence of the crime in order to

bring home to us Westerns the deplorable condition of the heathen among

whom they are labouring. But, even among the missionaries, the

statements are as divergent as they are on almost every other subject

relating to China. Thus the Rev. Griffith John argues "from his own

experience that infanticide is common all over the Empire," the Rev. Dr.

Edkins on the other hand says that "infanticide is a thing almost

unknown in Peking." And the well known medical missionary, Dr. Dudgeon

of Peking (who has left the London Mission), agrees with another medical

missionary, Dr. Lockhart, "that infanticide is almost as rare in China

as in England."

The Rev. A. H. Smith ("Chinese Characteristics," p. 207) speaks "of the

enormous infanticide which is known to exist in China." The Rev. Justus

Doolittle ("Social Life of the Chinese," ii. p. 203) asserts that "there

are most indubitable reasons for believing that infanticide is tolerated

by the Government, and that the subject is treated with indifference and

with shocking levity by the mass." ... But Bishop Moule "has good reason

to conclude that the prevalence of the crime has been largely

exaggerated." (_Journal, China Branch R.A.S._, _ut supra_.)

One of the best known Consuls in China, who lately retired from the

Service, told the writer that in all his thirty years' experience of

China he had only had personal knowledge of one authentic case of

infanticide.

"Exaggerated estimates respecting the frequency of infanticide," says

the Rev. Dr. D. J. MacGowan, "are formed owing to the withholding

interment from children who die in infancy." And he adds that "opinions

of careful observers will be found to vary with fields of observation."

(_China Review_, xiv., 206.)

Whatever the relative frequency of infanticide in China and Europe may

be, it cannot, I think, admit of question that the crime of infanticide

is less common among the barbarian Chinese than is the crime of

foeticide among the highly civilised races of Europe and America.

There are several temples in Tongchuan, and two beyond the walls which

are of more than ordinary interest. There is a Temple to the Goddess of

Mercy, where deep reverence is shown to the images of the Trinity of

Sisters. They are seated close into the wall, the nimbus of glory which

plays round their impassive features being represented by a golden

aureola painted on the wall. The Goddess of Mercy is called by the

Chinese "_Sheng-mu_," or Holy Mother, and it is this name which has been

adopted by the Roman Catholic Church as the Chinese name of the Virgin

Mary.

There is a fine City Temple which controls the spirits of the dead of

the city as the yamens of the magistrates control the living of the

city. The Prefect and the City Magistrate are here shown in their

celestial abodes administering justice--or its Chinese equivalent--to

the spirits who, when living, were under their jurisdiction on earth.

They hold the same position in Heaven and have the same authority as

they had on earth; and may, as spirits, be bribed to deal gently with

the spirits of departed friends just as, when living, they were open to

offers to deal leniently with any living prisoner in whose welfare the

friends were prepared to express practical sympathy.

In the Buddhist Temple are to be seen, in the long side pavilions, the

chambers of horrors with their realistic representations of the torments

of a soul in its passage through the eight Buddhist hells. I looked on

these scenes with the calmness of an unbeliever; not so a poor woman to

whom the horrors were very vivid truths. She was on her knees before

the grating, sobbing piteously at a ghastly scene where a man, while

still alive, was being cast by monsters from a hill-top on to red-hot

spikes, there to be torn in pieces by serpents. This was the torture her

dead husband was now enduring; it was this stage he had reached in his

onward passage through hell--the priest had told her so, and only money

paid to the priests could lighten his torment.

Beyond the south gate, amid groves of lofty pine trees, are the temple

and grounds, the pond and senior wrangler bridge, of the Confucian

Temple--the most beautifully-finished temple I have seen in China. We

have accustomed ourselves to speak in ecstacies of the wood-carving in

the temples of Japan, but not even in the Sh[=o]gun chapels of the Shiba

temples in Tokyo have I seen wood-carving superior to the exquisite

delicacy of workmanship displayed in the carving of the Imperial dragons

that frame with their fantastic coils the large Confucian tablet of this

temple. Money has been lavished on this building. The inclined marble

slabs that divide the terrace steps are covered with fanciful tracery;

the parapets of the bridge are chiselled in marble; sculptured images of

elephants with howdahs crown the pillars of the marble balustrades; the

lattice work under the wide eaves is everywhere beautifully carved.

Lofty pillars of wood support the temple roofs. They are preserved by a

coating of hemp and protected against fire by an outer coating of

plaster stained the colour of the original wood. Gilding is used as

freely in the decoration of the grand altar and tablets of this temple,

as it is in a temple in Burma.

On a hill overlooking the city and valley is the Temple to the God of

Literature. The missionary and I climbed to the temple and saw its

pretty court, its ancient bronze censer, and its many beautiful flowers,

and then sat on the terrace in the sun and watched the picturesque

valley spread out before us.

As we descended the hill again, a lad, who had attached himself to us,

offered to show us the two common pits in which are cast the dead bodies

of paupers and criminals. The pits are at the foot of the hill,

open-mouthed in the uncut grass. With famine in the city, with people

dying at that very hour of starvation, there was no lack of dead, and

both pits were filled to within a few feet of the surface. Bodies are

thrown in here without any covering, and hawks and crows strip them of

their flesh, a mode of treating the dead grateful to the Parsee, but

inexpressibly hateful to the Chinese, whose poverty must be overwhelming

when he can be found to permit it. Pigtails were lying carelessly about

and skulls separated from the trunk. Human bones gnawed by dogs were to

be picked up in numbers in the long grass all round the hill; they were

the bones of the dead who had been loosely buried close to the surface,

through which dogs--the domestic dogs one met afterwards in the

street--had scraped their way. Many, too, were the bones of dead

children; for poor children are not buried, but are thrown outside the

wall, sometimes before they are dead, to be eaten perhaps by the very

dog that was their playmate since birth.

I called upon the French priest, Père Maire, and he came with much

cordiality to the door of the mission to receive me. His is a pretty

mission, built in the Chinese style, with a modest little church and a

nice garden and summer-house. The father has been four years in

Tongchuan and ten in China. Like most of the French priests in China he

has succeeded in growing a prodigious beard whose imposing length adds

to his influence among the Chinese, who are apt to estimate age by the

length of the beard. Only three weeks ago he returned from the capital.

Signs of famine were everywhere apparent. The weather was very cold, and

the road in many places deeply covered with snow. Riding on his mule he

passed at different places on the wayside eight bodies, all recently

dead from hunger and cold. No school is attached to the mission, but

there is an _orphèlinat_ of little girls, _ramassées dans les rues_, who

had been cast away by their parents; they are in charge of Chinese

Catholic nuns, and will be reared as nuns. As we sat in the pavilion in

the garden and drank wine sent to him by his brother in Bordeaux--true

French wine--the priest had many things to tell me of interest, of the

native rebellion on the frontier of Tonquin, of the mission of Monsieur

Haas to Chungking, and the Thibetan trade in tea. "The Chinese? ah! yes.

He loves the Chinese because he loves all God's creatures, but they are

liars and thieves. Many families are converted, but even the Christians

are never Christian till the third generation." These were his words.

An Australian in China · 第 11 / 23 章