CHAPTER XVIII.

Volunnia's inquisitiveness—Her strictures on English

propriety—The Marchesa Silvia's dread of heretics—The

dinner—The Marchesa Gentilina knits stockings and talks

politics.

I was very much diverted, during the investigation of my wardrobe, at

noticing how keenly Volunnia eyed the make and quality of my garments,

as if furnishing some clue to my position in society; still further

to elucidate which, she proceeded to a diligent cross-examination

respecting my birth, parentage, and the reasons which had brought me so

far from my own country.

Strange as it may seem, there was nothing I felt disposed to take

offence at in these interrogatories. They showed so much ignorance

of the world beyond the narrow limits in which she lived; so

much curiosity to learn something of a country that, despite her

school-learning, was almost as much an Ultima Thule to her as to her

Roman ancestors; and displayed besides so amusingly the impression

left upon foreigners by some of our everyday customs, that I should

have been foolishly sensitive, as well as have deprived myself of a

good deal of entertainment, had I resented Volunnia's inquiries, or her

comments upon my answers. But I was evidently an enigma to her, which

it would have required a second Œdipus to unravel.

“_Ma, ma_,” she said at length, as if musing upon the subject—“when

you return to England, will it not hinder your ever marrying to have it

said that you have been abroad, away from your nearest relations?—and

who, after all, will be able to certify where? _We_, in these parts,

know and respect your uncle and his family, and can answer for their

manner of life; but supposing a _partito_ in your own country is

found for you, might not injurious inferences be drawn from your long

absence? Who will vouch for your having been really under the care of

your uncle, or furnish proofs of his excellence and fitness for the

charge?”

I had not weighed all these important considerations, I told her

gravely—nevertheless had no fear, in the event of their being mooted,

that any unpleasant remarks could be applied to my stay with my

relations in Ancona.

“I suppose you know best, carina; but a person who contemplates

marriage has certainly a right to be particular as to the previous

proceedings of the young lady who may be proposed to him as a wife—and

who can satisfy the doubts of a man in such a case? With us, believe

me, the injury to a woman's prospects would be incalculable.”

I rejoined meekly, that in England it was not usual, and, above all,

not deemed advisable, for persons to enter into matrimony without such

knowledge of each other's characters, and mutual trust and confidence,

as rendered it impossible that suspicions like those she hinted at

could ever be entertained.

“You are a singular people, you English!” she exclaimed; “such licence

allowed women when single—such severity shown towards them when

married. I saw a little of your manners several years ago, when I

spent a winter with my parents in Rome. Alas! we were drawn thither

by that ill-fated _processo_, and became acquainted with a family of

your compatriots. I was astonished! Young men were allowed to come

constantly in the evening to the house, and would stand by the piano

while the young ladies played, and turn over the leaves of their

music-books, or assist them in the duties of the tea-table, laughing

and talking without the least restraint; nay, more, hold tête-à-tête

conversations over an embroidery-frame or a chess-board, while the

mother sat at the other end of the room, perfectly indifferent as to

what they might be saying.”

“Because she, doubtless, had confidence that neither the young

Englishmen she permitted to visit at her house would dream of uttering,

nor her daughters so far forget themselves as to listen to, a single

word incompatible with the strictest propriety.”

“Precisely: that is what this lady said when my poor mother,

_buon'anima_, ventured some remark on these proceedings, so singular

to our eyes. Then, what astonished us exceedingly was the great

familiarity with their brothers, by whom I have frequently seen them

kissed, without any motive—such as saying farewell before a long

absence, or a return from a journey—to authorize it; while they were

permitted to walk or ride out without any other escort—one or two

of the sons' most intimate friends sometimes even joining them; the

mother calmly acquiescing, nay, encouraging them, by saying her sons

were the natural guardians of their sisters, and would admit no one to

their society unworthy of that distinction! But the crowning stroke of

all was when a marriage was combined with some _milor_ for one of the

young ladies, or rather when she had combined it for herself—for he

spoke to _her_ before declaring himself to the parents—she was allowed

to take his arm on the Pincian Hill or the Villa Borghese, with only

a sister or a young brother of nineteen or twenty as a chaperon; and

I myself have seen them, under their mother's very eyes, stand for

half-an-hour in the evening on a balcony, under pretence of looking at

the moonlight, and unconsciously turning my head in that direction, I

could not help witnessing ... Ahem!” Volunnia blushed and hesitated.

“A little of the same proceeding you had objected to in the brothers?”

“You are right! At the moment I was so amazed I hardly dared tell my

mother what I had beheld; she would have been too much scandalized!”

“And yet you did not count it worthy of remark, among your own

Roman friends, to see a young woman, but two or three years married,

surrounded by a bevy of admirers; carrying the arts of coquetry to

their utmost height, and taking pride in inspiring attachments and

receiving declarations which would be esteemed an insult to a modest

English wife. And you did not feel shocked, when the first novelty of

her gay life was over—when the society from which she had been shut

out in her girlhood had lost its intoxicating influence—to hear of

her exchanging the homage of the many for the exclusive devotion of

a recognized _cavaliere_, replacing, by his daily assiduities, the

presence of a husband who has found similar occupations for himself

elsewhere! _Scusi_, Signora Volunnia: you are at liberty to call us a

strange people, but permit me to say our system, even taken from your

own point of view, is a thousand times preferable to yours.”

“_Via, via_,” she replied; “you exaggerate a little. What you say

might be applicable fifty years ago, when it used to be stipulated in

the marriage-contract that the wife should have but one _cavaliere

servente_, and the husband often selected a friend whom he thought

trustworthy for that office. But things have changed now: it is no

longer looked upon as indispensable; and I could tell you of several

ladies of my acquaintance who have never had a _cavaliere_, nor the

shadow of one. My own mother, dear soul! I can cite as an instance—a

remarkable one, I admit, for the period when she was young—but then

she had a singular affection for my father, who on his side was always

ready to accompany her to the theatre or the casino; or else, as I

myself remember, whenever she was indisposed, for two or three hours

together would sit in her room, talking most agreeably: altogether, he

showed extreme amiability in paying her those little attentions which

others, less fortunate in their marriage, are glad to receive from

their _cavalieri_. Then take Silvia for another example: I do not think

she has ever had an idea upon the subject; in fact, she has no taste

for amusements, and never cares for anything except her children and

her religious duties, in which last, indeed, she is exemplary.”

The conversation was here interrupted by a servant coming to inquire

whether the marchesina intended to drive or walk before dinner, which

reminded her of the lateness of the hour, and the necessity of retiring

to dress. About one o'clock, the ladies of the family went out—not

together, nor indeed frequently, except Silvia, who daily repaired

with her pale children and two nurses to an avenue of trees outside the

gates of the town, where they descended from the carriage, and crawled

up and down for an hour or so, and then drove home again.

The marchesa seldom cared to leave the house; she always had visitors

at that hour, and preferred talking to any other exercise. Volunnia was

the only one who found any pleasure in a walk—a taste in which she had

no sympathy from the other members of the family, as even her brothers

never dreamed of going further than the caffè, or, at the utmost, a few

steps upon the public promenade. She was, therefore, glad to enlist

me as a companion, and, followed by one of the liveried attendants,

who was especially dedicated to Volunnia's service—being her nurse

in sickness as well as body-guard in health—we took several walks in

the environs of Macerata. Sometimes, too, I went with the marchesa to

pay visits; and once or twice, to propitiate Silvia, I accepted her

invitation to drive with her and the children; but we never became

cordial. I was too much at variance with all her preconceived ideas

of propriety ever to find favour in her eyes; besides, my being a

Protestant was an insurmountable disqualification. I accidentally

discovered she firmly believed that the transmigration of human souls

into the bodies of animals was a dogma of the Church of England—a

conclusion founded upon the circumstance, that some years before, an

English family holding this theory had resided in Macerata, where they

excited much notice by purchasing and fondly cherishing sundry diseased

horses, half-starved sheep, and other suffering quadrupeds, in whom,

they declared, dwelt the spirits of their departed relations. Silvia

could never quite believe that I did not hold this tenet. She did not,

indeed, like conversations on such subjects; and once, when I said

something laughingly in allusion to myself, thus retorted, “Well, what

does it signify, after all? You do not pray to the Madonna, so the rest

matters little.” And on my offering to lend her an Italian translation

of the English Prayer-book, she shrunk back, colouring deeply, and

abruptly declined.

But stay, it is three o'clock, and Rococo stands with a napkin under

his arm, knocking at each door—“Eccellenza in tavola.” And their

excellencies being very hungry, no time is lost in assembling in the

room down-stairs, where the parrot, on a lofty perch, is sounding the

note of preparation with right good-will. “Presto! Presto! La Zuppa.

Ho fame—Ho fame!”—he exclaims in shrill accents, flapping his wings,

while the family, hastily crossing themselves, are taking their places,

and addressing each other in voices almost as piercing to the ear; for

the high key in which Italians carry on their familiar discourse is

one of the peculiarities to which an English person finds it the most

difficult to become reconciled.

The large table is very simply laid; the dinner-service is of the

plainest white-ware, and the glass is equally ordinary. Between

every two places there is a bottle of wine—the growth of their own

vineyards—and a decanter of water; and beneath every napkin a small

loaf of bread. In the centre, a number of small dishes are disposed in

a circle, called the _ghirlanda_: these contain anchovies, caviare,

olives, Bologna sausage cut into thin slices, butter, pickles, and

raw ham, and are partaken of after the soup; broth, thickened with

semolina, has been served out from a sideboard by the _maestro di

casa_, and handed by the other servants, of whom there are three

in attendance. Then are brought round, successively, boiled fowls

stuffed with chestnuts; fried fish; roast lamb; a pie of cocks' combs

and brains, with a sweet crust; polenta—Indian-corn meal—in a form

enshrining stewed birds, and seasoned with Parmesan cheese; onions

dressed _all'agro dolce_ with vinegar and sugar; and, lastly, chocolate

cream—each dish being carved, where carving is necessary, by Rococo.

When these comestibles have been fully done justice to, the cloth is

swept, the _ghirlanda_ is removed, and the dessert, in the same sort of

white dishes, put upon table: apples and pears piled together, oranges

opposite; cheese and celery—all taken indiscriminately on the same

plate.

The repast occupies a long time, for tongues, as well as knives and

forks, are busy, and as great an amount of talking as of eating is got

through. Being the first general gathering of the day, there is all

the out-door gossip, as well as domestic intelligence, reciprocally to

be imparted. In the conversation, the servants even occasionally join,

volunteering an opinion as to whether it will rain the next quarter of

the moon, or announcing that the Signora Marchesa So-and-so is laid up

with a tooth-ache, or that Monsignor the Bishop has the gout; and as

for Rococo, he is continually appealed to, being evidently recognized

as an authority by the whole house.

In conclusion, finger-glasses, with slices of lemon floating in

the water, are presented to us, and we adjourn to the marchesa's

drawing-room, where coffee is served; and after a few minutes, the

majority disperse—Silvia to her babes, the priest to his breviary,

Volunnia to her bower. Papà calls for his cloak and stick, and departs

for the casino, leaning on the arm of Oliverotto, who, having dutifully

accompanied his father thither, adjourns to the caffè, and will

probably not reappear in the bosom of his family until supper.

I remain with the marchesa and Alessandro, who always passes the early

hours of the evening at home, only going out to pay some accustomed

visit or look in at the casino, from eight to ten, at which early

hour, to their great discomfort, they sup on account of papà. It soon

grows dark, and a large _lucerna_ is brought in, before which the

servant adjusts a green shade, effectually precluding the possibility

of reading or working by its light, except, indeed, that marvellous

knitting which the marchesa carries on mechanically, never looking at

her needles, and yet producing all sorts of complicated patterns for

her stockings, the fabrication of which is her sole manual employment.

It is unusually cold for the middle of February, and there is a

contention about the fire, which they insist upon lighting out of

compliment to me; but this I stoutly refuse, knowing that every

indisposition of the family or their visitants for the next fortnight

at least would be attributed to it. So I wrap myself in a large shawl,

have a _cassetta_ filled with live embers for my feet, and feel quite

comfortable. But I must learn to knit too, for then I shall be able to

keep my attention from wandering while the marchesa talks, and really

she is worth listening to, though Alessandro yawns so audibly. She is

holding forth warmly against the English Government for having deluded

the Italians, and especially the Sicilians, by encouraging them to

revolt in 1848, and abandoning them to their fate when defeated in

1849. It is indeed a sorry tale, and there is little to be said in

extenuation, though naturally one tries to make the best of it. Not

with me, not with the English people, is she angry, the marchesa over

and over again repeats; it is with that cold selfishness which is

here considered the blot upon English policy in all its relations with

foreign nations.

There is a ring at the bell! Alessandro rouses himself. It is past six.

The friends who form the conversazione begin to arrive, each person

staying from one to two hours, according to the number of other houses

at which he also habitually visits. Though they come every evening,

they never shake hands, at least not those of the old _régime_, and

they have always something new to say.

The Englishwoman in Italy Impressions of life in the Roman states and Sardinia, during a ten years' residence · 第 18 / 35 章