After a time, the breeding pearls change their orient to a dirty white,

the scales having peeled off. In all cases the rice looks as though

some beetle had taken a circular bite out of the end of each kernel.

Somehow a perusal of the accounts of the remarkable results, leaves

the reader with a conglomerate impression of transformed rice and

imagination.

Nevertheless, the breeding of pearls in cotton-wool or cotton-seed with

rice, is asserted and believed, and the methods by which the wonder is

accomplished may be had with great circumstance and some variations

from those who have experimented. No greater evidence exists of the

child-like faith of people in the old times than the incredible stories

about precious stones which were current in those days.

It is equally wonderful that although it took centuries to disprove

them, they received credence for more centuries after they were shown

to be impossible and one hears those same delightful fairy stories

about angel's tears, drops of dew from heaven, raindrops, etc.,

seriously quoted in this matter-of-fact land to-day, often by people

who after a moment's thought would become conscious of their fallacy.

But romance abhors reason, and though oysters cannot rise to the

surface of the sea, nor raindrops pass immaculate through the ocean

to the gaping mollusks, nor the downpour of one season increase the

yield at once of things which are the growth of years, there will long

remain some who will refuse the dictum of the biologist, that unless

the dews of heaven and the tears of angels carry much lime in solution,

the calcareous surroundings of the oyster's bed must have more to do

with the genesis of the pearl than anything dropped into the ocean by

the clouds above it, and will still cling to fancy in the face of fact.

Meantime the priests of Buddha exact charity oysters from the fishers

of their faith, that the god thus propitiated may cause the oysters to

yield more pearls.

A question often raised, and which by its periodical revival seems

to be a favorite with newspapers and magazines, as well as, to the

general public, is, "Do pearls live and die?" It originated probably in

observations of certain changes that occasionally take place in pearls

which could be readily construed by a speculative or imaginative mind

to mean death. Sometimes with pearls the brilliancy of youth fades and

passes and the clear skin of early days takes on the hue of age.

If now a ready pen waited on fancy to state the facts it would

establish an imaginative theory for centuries, for like gossip, a thing

once printed in a book will long pass on unquestioned and be quoted

or re-stated many times. There are pearls which for certain qualities

invite as a descriptive term the word live. There are others which by

comparison appear, and are described, as dead. Then there are others

that lose by untoward circumstances the live qualities they once

possessed and without dying become dead pearls. The calcite carbonate

crystals of which they are formed dissolve in acids and are affected to

a certain extent by the acidity of the excretions of the human skin,

sufficiently in some cases to destroy, or at any rate dim, their luster.

Gases in the atmosphere, sudden changes in temperature, heat, and

various other influences operate more or less in the same direction.

The chemical changes thus produced might with poetic license be called

the death of the pearl and in a sense the term would be true were the

whole pearl involved, but as a rule these misfortunes affect the outer

skin of the pearl only, so if that dies death is but skin deep, a live

pearl remaining beneath it.

As life and death means the segregation of particles into a compact

individuality and their final dissolution, pearls like all other things

in the restless economy of nature live and die, but the loss of some

of its native charms by the gem is not more a sign of death than the

rougher cuticle of a weather beaten sailor with which exposure has

replaced the smooth skin of the boy.

Nevertheless the idea of death coming to the pearl fascinates and

enterprising writers succeed in frequently placing very interesting

and readable articles before the public which incite the wonderment

of the reader and perpetuate the impression that this beloved gem is

some sort of a living creature subject to human vicissitudes. Lately

a story appeared in current publications which told how the pearls of

a lady's necklace sickened and lost their beauty. Much distressed she

carried them to the expert dealer of whom she bought them who gravely

advised her to let her maid wear them whereupon, they recovered from

the illness and their lustrous beauty was restored.

Twentieth century versions of fables older than this era are common;

shrewd traders and writers use them, nor are they always careful to

attach the fable to the particular gem to which, by right of ancient

usage, it belongs. The magical loss of color in the presence of

impending danger to its wearer is the ruby's prerogative, but, though

pearls may lose their charms by exposure to heat, gas and rough usage,

the wily orientals of remote or later ages provided no traditional

recovery more wonderful than the prosaic method of feeding them to

fowls and cutting them out of the gizzard an hour or two later.

The pearl is generally considered to be the emblem of innocence and

purity. A pretty fashion in vogue among parents who can afford it, is

of giving a pearl to each of their daughters on their birthdays. These

are carefully matched and strung so that the string grows to a necklace

for maturer years.

Along with the emblematic idea and the fanciful notion of their origin,

there comes to us from the old days a superstition concerning pearls

which probably grew out of the statement that they were the congealed

tears of heaven. It was supposed that they brought tears to their

possessors. The idea originated probably about a thousand years ago in

western Europe. It did not exist in Rome during the time of the Cæsars

for the pearl was then the sign of power and affluence and was coveted

by men and women alike and it remains a most popular gem in Italy

to-day.

This absurdity has been kept alive by stories of prominent persons in

whose experience occurrences seemed to confirm the claim. The Queen

of Henry IV. of France dreamt that her diamonds were turned to pearls

the night previous to her husband's assassination by Ravaillac. The

consort of James IV. of Scotland dreamt of pearls three nights in

succession before the disastrous battle of Flodden Field in which he

lost his life. These and similar stories which appeal to a love of the

mysterious and wonderful have been perpetuated by writers of books, so

that even to-day there are women who coveting pearls still fear to own

them.

But to be out of the fashion is more dreadful to women than tears,

so it has come to pass that with the increasing vogue of the pearl,

less is heard of the superstition and it is dying, not of age or the

contempt of knowledge, but by the potency of fashion.

A story already referred to in these pages, that has been current

for over two thousand years during which time it has been mentioned

by almost every writer about pearls, deserves, for its antiquity and

absurdity, consideration here. It is of Cleopatra and the pearl worth

upwards of three hundred thousand dollars she is said to have dissolved

in wine to drink in costly fashion to her lover. This was, of course,

impossible. She may, with the help of the wine have swallowed it like

a pill or, as Sir Thomas Gresham did later, have ground it to powder

and mixed it with the wine she drank, but to dissolve a pearl of great

size as one of this value would be, was a conjurer's feat.

The lime of which a pearl is chiefly composed will dissolve in acid,

but the gem although softened, would remain a pulpy mass held by the

organic matter interwoven throughout the strata of calcium carbonate.

Whatever she really did, or in what form she swallowed the pearl, if

she did so, Cleopatra and her pearl are better known to-day to the

general public than either of her Roman lovers, and they will probably

be handed down through many generations yet to come.

To exaggerate is a common tendency. Dealers usually place inordinately

high figures on exceptional gems which they do for several reasons:

the great price excites wonder and interest; it makes a large profit

possible; it permits considerable reduction to a shrewd buyer; and it

pleases the person who finally purchases it, for if the sale is made

public the first asking price is usually given as the value of the

jewel, and sometimes even that is exceeded. The buyer prefers to have

it so because it increases the importance of his possession in the

public mind and paves the way for a good price if he too at any time

should wish to sell.

One reads constantly in the daily papers of sales where the prices

given are enormously beyond the sums actually paid, for the public like

big figures. Reporters know this and do not fail to supply the demand.

For instance: in an eastern city of the United States, a man while at

a lunch counter found a pearl in the oyster he was eating. He took it

at once to a jeweller of his acquaintance who handed it to a New York

pearl-dealer present and asked him to value it.

The pearl was large and round but, like all such formations in the

edible oyster, quite devoid of the nacre which constitutes a true

pearl. The dealer so informed them, adding casually, "If it were a true

pearl it would be worth several thousand dollars." An evening paper

that day had a half column story about it with, "A pearl worth five

thousand dollars found in an oyster at a lunch-counter," in black

head-lines, and the morning papers of the following day enlarged the

story by adding fanciful details.

Undoubtedly in the old days of license when immense fortunes were

made not only in trade but by piratical wars, large prices were paid

by fortune's favorites for pearls but it is extremely probable that

report, bruited from mouth to mouth, exaggerated even more than the

printed fables of our times do. It is doubtful if the pearls of ancient

chronicles were as fine, judged by the standards of to-day, as we

imagine or that all of them were as large as reported. The public were

more ignorant about them than now and also more credulous and these

invite exaggeration.

Very large pearls which for perfection of shape, luster and freedom

from flaws are beyond criticism, are the most rare of all gems. The

conditions under which a pearl grows, makes large size, without the

development of irregularities in the form and imperfections in the

skin, almost impossible; and as they all grow in the same way, by the

same process, out of the same sources of supply and subject to the same

limitations, we find big and little, fine and ordinary, in about the

same proportions as they occurred thousands of years ago; the fish that

made them then makes them now, in the same kind of a narrow workshop

and within the bounds of a life whose duration has not changed.

Of very ancient historic pearls, the only one of which we have reliable

and expert knowledge, is that of the Shah of Persia seen by Tavernier.

This and La Peregrina are supposed to be still in existence. Of the

very large pearls generally mentioned by writers, three undoubtedly

exist, viz., La Pellegrina, the Beresford Hope and one of medium

quality in the Austrian Crown weighing about twelve hundred grains.

It is probable that very many pearls have been found, which if

generally known would have become celebrated, but of those chronicled,

most have passed out of public knowledge. It is probable that some of

those about which much has been written were not as beautiful as others

which have escaped notoriety. The writer's habit of drawing upon the

past to illustrate a subject, has narrowed the literature of pearls

to reiterated records of a few great pearls which one by one have been

brought to public notice during the past centuries.

Exact and reliable statements about gems are a modern innovation. In

the old times unverified report was the only evidence the general

public had of them. Crown jewellers, not always quite reliable,

would make public some statements in general terms about the jewels

of a reigning house. Occasionally, as in the case of France, the

state had the crown jewels inventoried so that some fairly definite

knowledge could be had of them. Infrequently a traveller published

his observations, made under more or less favorable circumstances,

of the jewels of some oriental prince. Chief of these was Tavernier,

the French jeweller. He not only had expert knowledge of gems but was

able by recommendations of the French court, to gain such access to

the jewels of eastern princes and dealers that he could make critical

examinations of them.

For various reasons it is extremely difficult also in these days to

obtain accurate knowledge of extraordinary gems. Dealers for business

reasons are chary of information, nor will they make such pieces

common by allowing many to see and handle them. The buyer is equally

averse to publicity, so that exact knowledge does not pass far beyond

the dealer and his customer as a rule.

The finest pearl known is that in the Museum of Zosima, in Moscow,

called La Pellegrina. It is perfectly round and so lustrous that it

appears to be transparent. It weighs about 112 grains and was bought of

the captain of an East India ship at Leghorn.

The largest known pearl to-day is in the Beresford Hope collection

shown at the South Kensington Museum, London. It is two inches long and

its circumference is four and a half inches. It weighs three ounces

(1818 grains).

[Illustration: COUNTESS TORBY]

Tavernier saw a pearl in 1663 belonging to the Shah of Persia which

was valued at 3200 tomans or about $320,000 of our money. It was very

perfect, pear-shaped, and nearly three inches long. It is believed to

have come from the ancient fishery at Catifa in Arabia. Even this great

sum was exceeded by Pliny in his estimate of the pearl Cleopatra is

said to have swallowed. He placed the value of that at $375,000. As

the Shah's pearl was about three inches long, Cleopatra's must have

been large enough to reflect on the story connected with it.

It is said Julius Cæsar presented a pearl valued at an equivalent of

nearly $250,000 to Servilla the sister of Cato of Utica and mother of

Marcus Junius Brutus. The pearl taken from the ear-drop of Caecilia

Metella by Clodius to dissolve and drink in vinegar was valued at

$40,000.

A large pear-shaped pearl weighing one thousand grains was found at the

island of Margarita off the Colombian coast and given to Philip II. of

Spain. Some reports say it was obtained in 1579; others give the date

as 1560 and say it was presented to the monarch by Don Diego de Temes.

It was valued then at something over $30,000, but Freco, the king's

jeweller, said it might be worth twice to twenty times as much for such

a gem was priceless. It was later known among the crown jewels as La

Peregrina. Prior to this, a companion of Magellan reported having seen

two pearls as large as hen's eggs in the possession of the Rajah of

Borneo.

The pearl which Sir Thomas Gresham drank in his wine to Elizabeth of

England is said to have been worth seventy-five thousand dollars. It

was reported some years ago that the Queen of the Gambiers owned a

pearl of extraordinary luster, as large as a pigeon's egg. There is a

story that in 1779 a pearl weighing 2312 grains which cost in India

$22,500, was offered for sale in St. Petersburg. It was called the

sleeping lion because of its shape and must have been therefore a

baroque.

The republic of Venice presented a pearl to Soliman The Magnificent,

Sultan of Turkey, which was valued at $80,000, and Pope Leo X. bought

one of a Venetian jeweller for $70,000. These sums make the prices

of to-day seem insignificant and it is very probable that many of

the pearls which brought such large amounts would not pass criticism

now. Perhaps one reason for the scarcity of large pearls among those

taken from the fisheries in this age is that many of them are classed

as baroques or are not sufficiently fine and perfect to attract

attention. They pass therefore among those considered unworthy of

notice.

A brown pearl valued at $25,000 was exhibited by Marchisini of Florence

at the Maritime International Exhibition at Naples in 1871. Among the

Dudley pearls exhibited at the London Exhibition of 1872 was a necklace

of exceptionally fine pearls valued at $150,000. The late Czar of

Russia spent twenty-five years in collecting sufficient perfect Virgin

pearls to form a necklace for his wife. The Countess Henckel owns a

necklace of pearls which for value and associations is unrivalled.

It is composed of three strands, each at one time being a separate

and historical necklace. One was the famous necklace belonging to the

Empress Eugénie which has been valued at £20,000; one known as "the

necklace of the Virgin of Atokha," formerly owned by a member of the

Spanish nobility, the third belonged to the ex-Queen of Naples. For

value this is exceeded by a single strand necklace of large pearls

lately bought by a western millionaire of the United States. It is

composed of thirty-seven pearls ranging from eighteen to fifty-two and

three-quarter grains each, the latter being the largest central pearl.

The combined weight of the pearls is 979-3/4 grains and the value is

given at $400,000.

A very beautiful and nearly perfect pear-shaped pearl was found on

the north-east coast of Australia in the seventies. It weighed 159

grains. There is a pearl about the size of a pigeon's egg in the

French crown jewels, valued at $8,000. Many fine pearls, especially

black or colored, have been found on the Mexican coast during the last

twenty-five years, among them a black pearl of 162 grains and another

of 108 grains, a white pear-shape weighing 176 grains, an oval of

128 grains, and three weighing 300 grains, 180 grains and 372 grains

respectively, the first two being found in the same year.

In the World's Fair in Paris, 1889, seven black pearls from this

district, valued at $22,000 were exhibited. These and others are

described in "Gems and Precious Stones" by Kunz. No fresh-water pearl

has attained an equal notoriety with the Queen pearl found at Notch

Brook near Paterson, New Jersey, in 1857. It weighed 93 grains and was

sold to the Empress Eugénie.

Another round pearl of 400 grains, ruined by boiling, had it been

properly extracted from the mussel, would probably have been the

finest and most notable pearl of this age, though another as large as

a pigeon's egg, dropped from the mollusk and lost when the shell was

opened, might have rivalled it. The finder was wading in a stream in

Ohio, feeling for the projecting edges of the mussels with his feet,

and opening them as he brought them to the surface, as was custom

there. This, however, may have been like the fish that got away.

PEARLS IN LITERATURE

In all countries where woman has been enthroned in the respect as well

as the affections of man, the pearl has been inseparably connected

with her in his mind as a peculiarly fitting accompaniment to feminine

loveliness. In the romantic dreams of youth, which hide betimes

the harsh realism of life under a golden haze of imagery; where

belted knights and fair ladies live and move unfettered, and all the

impossible delights of sweet desire free from untoward consequences are

reasonable; where invincible swords have no thought of the horrors of

carnage, and unimpeded love is without cold calculation or following of

sorrow, pearls everywhere shimmer.

And when in his exalted moods man paints the shadow picture of the

goddess of his life, he finds one gem alone befitting with which to

deck her, namely, the pearl. This has come to pass probably because

the ideal qualities of woman and the sea-gem are alike, purity and

modesty. The beauty of the most lustrous pearl is unobtrusive and its

quality is virginal. In our visions of the spectral past, the shades of

the consorts of the mighty all wear them.

Pearls hang pendent from the ears of Egypt's voluptuous queens,

and Rome's proud matrons. Pearls clasp the dainty flesh of Moslem

houris and rest in the soft folds of draperies that cling about those

daughters of the Orient, the common mortals of their day might not

look upon. Great pearls hang festooned and pendent round the necks of

lightly draped Dianas of the warm south lands, and coiled about the

brown arms of the daughters of the chiefs in far-off islands of the

South Seas.

Upon reclining figures in the ancient palaces of Persia and Arab tents:

wherever the proud women of the conquering occident move in stately

measure across the high terraces of noble placement: in all dreams

of fair women and brave men, are swords and pearls. And this is so

because in all the ages, women of high position have loved pearls and

writers have told it. In our old world so far, neither earth nor sea

has yielded ought else so fit to lie in the bosom of woman, or to

symbolize her character and beauty, as the chaste and dainty pearl.

This high atmosphere of precious supremacy and reverence, which

surrounds the gem now as it has for more than twenty centuries, is

a legacy of Rome. The east loved pearls as beautiful and precious

trinkets; while Rome gave to them imperial honors and drew around them

the mystic circle of patrician favor. And since that day, in every land

where an aristocracy existed or came into existence, pearls have been

the familiars of the exclusive.

This natural fitness of the gem for refined associations is recognized

by Emerson in his "Friendship." He says:

Thou foolish Hafiz! Say! do churls

Know the worth of Oman's pearls?

Give the gem which dims the moon

To the noblest, or to none.

It is a late echo of the scriptural saying, "Cast not your pearls

before swine." No modern poet shows more knowledge of the nature, or a

more just appreciation of the delicate beauty of the gem than Emerson.

In his "May Day," speaking of the tardiness of the spring, he writes:

"Slow grows the palm, too slow the pearl."

Evidently he knew of the slow process by which the successive coats of

filmy nacre increase the size of the growing gem. Likewise a couplet

in "Nature" betrays the poet's observation of the iridescent nature of

the colors in mother-of-pearl, and in the gem occasionally when those

fleeting tints are added to the beauty of its luster; the lines are a

dainty illustration:

Illusions like the tints of pearl,

Or changing colors of the sky.

Some of the great poets, notably Tennyson, apparently confuse the

gem with its mother-of-pearl, or refer to the latter only when they

speak of pearl. In his "Recollections of the Arabian Nights," however,

Tennyson in describing one of his beauties evidently refers to the gem:

And a brow of pearl

Tressed with redolent ebony.

Writing of the mermaid, the lines are more suggestive of the shell

nacre:

Combing her hair

Under the sea,

In a golden curl

With a comb of pearl.

Again in a sonnet, he evidently refers to mother-of-pearl when he says:

All night through archways of the bridgèd pearl,

And portals of pure silver, walks the moon.

This indiscriminate use of the gem's name to appropriate its pearly

characteristics is a common poetic license. In Ben Jonson's "Hymn to

Diana," he bids her,

Lay thy bow of pearl apart.

Sometimes metaphor is worse mixed, as when Milton in "Paradise Lost"

describes the waters above the firmament about the gate of Heaven thus:

And underneath a bright sea flowed

Of jasper, or of liquid pearl.

In this poem of gorgeous description, the author makes several

allusions to the gem and some of them, especially those in his word

paintings of scenes in Eden, are poetically beautiful and true. One

delightful to the eye of the mind,

How from that sapphire fount the crispèd brooks

Rolling on orient pearls and sands of gold,

and another in the description of morning in Eden, equally beautiful

though it takes more license:

Now Morn, her rosy steps in th' eastern clime

Advancing, sow'd the earth with orient pearl.

In his "Epitaph on the Marchioness of Winchester," a couplet shows that

he was familiar with the superstition of sorrow connected with them:

And those pearls of dew she wears,

Proove to be presaging tears.

Herrick also associated pearls and tears though more happily as in

"Corinna's Maying."

The Pearl, its story, its charm, and its value · 第 12 / 14 段