II

"Varie sono le opinioni degli Scrittori circa l'edificazione di Pisa,"

says Tronci in his _Annali Pisani_, published at Livorno in the

seventeenth century. "Various are the opinions of writers as to the

building of Pisa, but all agree that it was founded by the Greeks. Cato

in his _Fragment_, and Dionysius Halicarnassus in the first book of his

_History_, affirm that the founders were the Pisi Alfei Pelasgi, who had

for their captain the King Pelops, as Pliny says in his _Natural

History_ (lib. 5), and Solinus too, as though it were indubitable: who

does not know that Pisa was from Pelops?" Certainly Pisa is very old,

and whether or no King Pelops, as Pliny thought, founded the city, the

Romans thought her as old as Troy. In 225 B.C. she was an Etruscan city,

and the friend of Rome; in Strabo's day she was but two miles from

the sea; Caesar's time she became a Roman military station; while in 4

A.D. we read that the disturbances at the elections were so serious that

she was left without magistrates. That fact in itself seems to bring the

city before our eyes: it is so strangely characteristic of her later

history.

[Illustration: PISA

_Alinari_]

But in spite of her enormous antiquity, there are very few left of her

Etruscan and Roman days, the remains of some Roman Thermae, Bagni di

Nerone near the Porta Lucca being, indeed, all that we may claim, save

the urns and sarcophagi scattered in the Campo Santo, from the great

days of Rome. The glory of Pisa is the end of the Middle Age and the

early dawn of the Renaissance. There, amid all the hurly-burly and

terror of invasion and civil wars, she shines like a beacon beside the

sea, proud, brave, and full of hope, almost the only city not altogether

enslaved in a country in the grip of the barbarian, almost overwhelmed

by the Lombards. And indeed, she was one of the first cities of Italy to

fling off the Lombard yoke. Favoured by her position on the shores of

the Tyrrhenian Sea, yet not so near the coast as to invite piracy, she

waged incessant war on Greek and Saracen. Lombardy, heavy with conquest,

fearful for her prize, which was Italy, was compelled to encourage the

growth of the naval cities. It was on the sea that the future of Pisa

lay, like the glory of the sun that in its splendour and pride passes

away too soon.

Already in the ninth century we hear of her prowess at Salerno, while in

the tenth, having possessed herself of her own government under consuls,

she sent a fleet to help the Emperor Otho II in Sicily. Fighting without

respite or rest, continually victorious, never downhearted, she had

opened the weary story of the civil strife of Italy with a war against

Lucca, in the year 1004.[17] It was the first outburst of that hatred

in her heart which in the end was to destroy her for she died of a

poverty of love.

In 1005, still with her fleet engaged in Sicilian waters, the Arab

pirates fell upon her, and, forcing the harbour, sacked a whole quarter

of the city. For the time Pisa could do little against the foes of

Europe, but in 1016 she allied herself with that city which proved at

last to be her deadliest foe, Genoa the Proud, and the united fleets

swept down on Sardinia for vengeance. It was this victorious expedition

that aroused the hatred of the Pisans for Genoa, a jealousy that was

only extinguished when at last Pisa was crushed at Meloria.

Many were the attempts of the Arabs to regain Sardinia, but Pisa was not

to be deceived. Coasting along the African shore, her fleet took Bona

and threatened Carthage. Yet in 1050 the Arabs of Morocco and Spain

stole the island from her, only Cagliari holding out under the nobles

for the mother city. There was more than the loss of Sardinia at stake,

for with the victory of the Arabs the highway of the sea was no longer

secure, the existence of Pisa, and not of Pisa only, was threatened. So

we find Genoa once more standing beside Pisa in the fight of Europe. The

fleets again were combined, this time under the command of a Pisan, one

Gualduccio, a plebeian. He sailed for Cagliari, landed his men, and

engaged the enemy on the beach. The Arabs were led by the King Mogahid,

Rè Musetto, as the Italians called him. He was over eighty years old at

the time, and though still full of cunning valour, attacked by the

fleets in front and the garrison in the rear, his army was defeated and

put to flight. He himself, fleeing on horseback, was wounded in two

places, and falling was captured; and they took him in chains to Pisa,

where he died. Thus Sardinia once more fell into the hands of Europe,

and the island, divided in fiefs under the rule of Pisa,[18] was held

and governed by her.

But Pisa was not yet done with the Arab. She stood for Europe. In 1063

she fought at Palermo, returning laden with booty. It was then, after

much discussion in the Senate,[19] sending an embassy to the Pope and

another to "Rè Henrico di Germania," that she decided to employ this

spoil in building the Duomo, in the place where the old Church of S.

Reparata stood, and more anciently the Baths of Hadrian, the Emperor.

The temple, Tronci tells us,[20] was dedicated to the Magnificent Queen

of the Universe, Mary, ever Virgin, most worthy Mother of God, Advocate

of sinners. It was begun in 1064, and many years, as Tronci says, were

consumed in the building of it.[21] The pillars--and there are

many--were brought by the Pisans from Africa, from Egypt, from

Jerusalem, from Sardinia, and other far lands.

At this time Pisa was divided into four parts, called _Quartieri_. The

first was called _Ponte_, the ensign of which was a rosy Gonfalon; the

second, _di Mezzo_, which had a standard with seven yellow stripes on a

red field; the third, _Foriporta_, which had a white gate in a rosy

field; and the fourth, _Chinsica_ with a white cross in a red field.[22]

Nor was the Duomo the only building that the Pisans undertook about this

time. Eight years later, the Church of S. Pietro in Vincoli, called

to-day S. Pierino, was built on a spot where of old "there was a temple

of the Gentiles" dedicated to Apollo; that, when the Pisans received

the faith of Jesus Christ, they gave to St. Peter, the Prince of the

Apostles. This church appears to have been consecrated by the great

Archbishop Peter on 30th August 1119.

These two churches, and especially the Duomo, still perhaps the most

wonderful church in Italy, prove the greatness of the civilisation of

Pisa at this time. She was then a self-governed city, owing allegiance,

it is true, to the Marquisate of Tuscany, but with consuls of her own.

Since she was so warlike, the nobles naturally had a large part in her

affairs. In the Crusade of 1099 the Pisans were late, as the Genoese

never ceased to remind them,--to come late, in Genoa, being spoken of as

"_Come l'ajuto di Pisa_"; and, indeed, like the Genoese, the Pisans

thought as much of their own commercial advantage in these Holy Wars as

of the Tomb of Jesus. In 1100 they returned from Jerusalem, their

merchants having gained, _una loggia, una contrada, un fondaco e una

chiesa_ for their nation in Constantinople, with many other fiscal

benefits. Nor were they forgetful of their Duomo, for they came home

with much spoil, bringing the bodies of the Saints Nicodemus the Prince

of the Pharisees, Gamaliel the master of St. Paul, and Abibone, one of

the seventy-two disciples of our Lord Jesus Christ.[23]

Encouraged by their success, not long afterwards, they, in their

invincible confidence and force, decided to undertake another

enterprise. Urged thereto by their Archbishop Peter, they set out,

partly for glory, partly in the hope of spoil to free the thousands of

Christians held captive by the Arabs in the Balearic islands. The fleet

sailed on the 6th August 1114, the Feast of S. Sisto, the anniversary of

other victories. There were, it seems, some three hundred ships of

diverse strength; and every sort of person, old and young, took part in

this adventure. Going astray, they first landed in Catalonia and did

much damage; then, "acknowledging their unfortunate mistake," they found

the island, where, under Archbishop Peter and the Pope's gonfalone,

they were entirely successful. They released the captives, and, amid the

immense spoil, they brought away the son of the Moorish king, whom later

they baptized in Pisa and sent back to the Moors. The Pisan dead were,

however, very many. At first they thought to load a ship with the slain

and bring them home again; but this was not found possible. Sailing at

last for Marseilles, they buried them there in the Badia di S. Vittore,

later bringing the monks to Pisa.

Now, while the glory of Pisa shone thus upon the waters far away, the

Lucchesi thought to seize Pisa herself, deprived of her manhood. But the

Florentines, who at this time were friends with Pisa, since their

commerce depended upon the Porto Pisano, sent a company to guard the

city, encamping some two miles off; for since so much loot lay to hand,

to wit, Pisa herself, the Florentine captains feared lest they might not

be able to hold their men. And, indeed, one of their number entered the

city intent on the spoil, but was taken, and they judged him worthy only

of death. But the Pisans, not to be outdone in honour, refused to allow

him to be executed in their territory; then the Florentines bought a

plot of ground near the camp, and killed him there. When the fleet

returned and heard this, they determined to send Florence a present to

show their gratitude. Now, among the spoil were some bronze gates and

two rosy pillars of porphyry, very precious. Then they besought the

Florentines to choose one of these, the gates or the pillars, as a gift.

And Florence chose the pillars, which stand to-day beside the eastern

gate of the Baptistery in that city. But on the way to Florence they

encountered the Mugnone in flood, and were thrown down and broken there.

Hence the Florentines, that scornful and suspicious folk, swore that the

Pisans had cracked their gifts themselves with fire before sending them,

that Florence might not possess things so fair.

Other jealousies, too, arose out of the success of Pisa, though

indirectly. For the Genoese, never content that she should have the

overlordship of Sardinia, were still more disturbed when Pope Gelasius

II., that Pisan, gave Corsica to Pisa, so that about 1125[24] they made

war on her. The war lasted many years, till Innocent II, being Pope and

come to Pisa, made peace, giving the Genoese certain rights in Corsica.

About this time S. Bernard was in Pisa, where in 1134 Innocent II held a

General Council; not for long, however, for in the same year he set out

for Milan to reconcile that Church with Rome.

Her quarrel with Genoa was scarcely finished when Pisa found herself at

war with the Normans in Southern Italy, defending heroically the city of

Naples and utterly destroying Amalfi, the wonderful republic of the

South.[25] Certainly the might of Pisa was great; her supremacy was

unquestionable from Lerici to Piombino, but behind her hills Lucca was

on watch, not far away Florence her friend as yet, held the valley of

the Arno, while Genoa on the sea dogged her steps between the

continents. Thus Pisa stood in the middle of the twelfth century the

strongest and most warlike city in Tuscany, full of ambition and the

love of beauty and glory. For it was now in 1152 that she began to build

the Baptistery, and in 1174 the famous Campanile, a group of buildings

with the Duomo unrivalled in the world.

Meanwhile the Great Countess of Tuscany had died in 1115; more and more

Italy became divided against itself, and by the end of the century

Guelph and Ghibelline, commune and noble, were tearing her in pieces.

Tuscany, really little more than a group of communes devoted to trade,

with the great feudatories ever in the offing, without any real unity,

slowly became the stronghold of the Guelphs. Only Pisa,[26] glorying in

the strength of the sea and the splendour of war, was Ghibelline, with

Siena on her sunny hills. Now, having won Sardinia for herself, her

nobles there established were, as was their manner everywhere,

continually at feud. The Church, thinking to make Pisan sovereignty less

secure, supported the weaker. Already Innocent III had, following this

plan, called on the Pisans to withdraw their claim to the island. And it

was a Pisan noble, Visconti, who, marrying into one of the island

families related to Gregory IX, recognised the Papal suzerainty. Thus

this family in Pisa became Guelph. But the other nobles, among whom was

the Gherardesca family, threw their weight on the other side, and so

Pisa, who had ever leaned that way, became staunchly Ghibelline.[27]

The quarrel with Florence was certain sooner or later, for Florence was

growing in strength and riches; she would not for ever be content to let

Pisa hold her sea-gate, taking toll of all that passed in and out. It

was in 1222 that the first war broke out with the White Lily. Any excuse

was good enough; the bone of contention appears to have been a lap-dog

belonging to one of the Ambassadors[28]. Pisa was beaten. In 1259,

nevertheless, she turned on the Genoese and drove them down the seas.

But the death of Frederic in 1250 was the true end of the Ghibelline

cause in Italy.

What then did Pisa look like in these the days of her great power and

prosperity? She was a city, we may think, of narrow shadowy streets like

the Via delle Belle Torri, full of refuse and garbage too, for then, as

now in the remoter places, the household slops were simply hurled out of

the windows with a mere _guarda_! called from an upper window. And to

the horror of less fortunate cities, these streets were full of "Pagans,

Turks, Libyans, Parthians, and foul Chaldeans, with their incense,

pearls, and jewels." Yet though so good a Guelph as Donizo, the

biographer of the great Countess, can express his horror of these

"Gentiles," Genoa, too, must have been in much the same case; but then

Genoa was Guelph, and Pisa Ghibelline. Yet then, as to-day in that quiet

far corner of the city, in a meadow sprinkled with daisies, the great

white Duomo stood a silent witness to the splendour of the noblest

republic in Tuscany.

But her day was too soon over. In 1254, Florence and Lucca met and

defeated her. The Guelphs had won. In Pisa we find the government

reformed, elders appointed, a senate, a great council, and Podestà, a

Captain of the People. It seemed as though Pisa herself was about to

become Guelph, or at any rate to fling out her nobles. But in many a

distant colony the nobles ruled, undisturbed by the disaster at home.

And then, almost before she had set her house in order, the splendid

victory of Monteaperto threw the Guelphs into confusion, and the banners

of Pisa once more flew wide and far. But the fatal cause of the Empire

was doomed; Manfred fell at Benevento, and Corradino was defeated at

Tagliacozzo by Charles of Anjou, who, not content with victory, expelled

the Pisan merchants from his ports. There was left to her the sea.

Now Ugolino della Gherardesca, of the great family which had been

especially enraged by the conduct of Visconti, married his sister to one

of that family reigning at Gallura in Sardinia. This man, the judge of

Gallura, as he was called, had come to live in Pisa. The Pisans looked

with much suspicion on this alliance, and exiled first the Visconti and

later Ugolino himself, with all the other Guelphs. Ugolino went to

Lucca, and with her help in 1276 overcame his native city and forced her

to receive again the exiles. Then the merchandise of Florence passed

freely through her port, Lucca regained her fortresses, and Pisa herself

fell into the possession of Ugolino.

Nevertheless, without a thought of fear, looking ever seaward, she

awaited the Genoese attack, certain that it would come, since she was

divided within her gates. It was to be a fight to the death. During the

year 1282 the Genoese were driven back from the mouth of the Arno, the

Pisans were driven from Genoa, and scattered and spoiled by a storm.

These were but skirmishes; the fight was yet to come. In Genoa they

built a hundred and fifty ships of war; the Pisans, too, were straining

every nerve. Then came a running fight off Sardinia, in which the Pisans

had the worse of it, losing eight galleys and fifteen hundred men. Yet

they were not disheartened. They made Alberto Morosini, a Venetian,

their Podestà, and with him as Admirals were Count Ugolino della

Gherardesca and Andreotto Saracini. When the treasury was empty the

nobles gave their fortunes for the public cause. We hear of one family

giving eleven ships of war, others gave six, others less, as they were

able. At midsummer 1284 more than a hundred galleys sailed to Genoa, and

in scorn shot arrows of silver into the great harbour. But the Genoese

were not yet prepared. They were ready a few days later, however, when

the watchers by Arno "descried a hundred and seven sail" making for the

Porto. Then Pisa thrust forth her ships. With songs and with

thanksgiving the Archbishop Ubaldino, at the head of all the clergy of

the city, flung the Pisan standard out on the wind. It was night when

the fleet was lost to sight in the offing. In that night there came to

the Genoese thirty ships by way of reinforcement unknown to the Pisans.

These they hid behind the island of Meloria. At dawn the battle broke.

In many squadrons the ships flung themselves on one another, and for

long the victory hung in the balance. The Pisans had already grappled

for boarding, the battle was yet to win, when the Genoese reinforcements

sailed out from the island straight for the Pisan Admirals. The battle

was over. Flight--it was all that was left for Pisa. Ugolino himself was

said to have given the signal.

There fell that day five thousand Pisans, with eleven thousand captured,

and twenty-eight galleys lost to Genoa. There was no family in Pisa but

mourned its dead: for six months on every side nothing was heard but

lamentations and mourning. If you would see Pisa, it was said, you must

go to Genoa.

Pisa had lost the sea. In Tuscany she stood with Arezzo facing the

Guelph League. She elected Ugolino her Captain-General.[29] A man of the

greatest force and ability, he was ambitious rather for himself than for

Pisa. Having many Guelph friends, his business was to beat Genoa and the

Guelph League. He succeeded in part. He bribed Florence with certain

strongholds to leave the League, and he expelled the Ghibellines from

Pisa. Then he offered Genoa Castro in Sardinia as ransom for the Pisan

prisoners; but they sent word to the Council that they would not accept

their freedom at the price of the humiliation of their city. Such were

the Pisans. And, indeed, they threatened that if at such a price they

were set free, they would return only to punish those who had thought

such treason. Ugolino for his part cared not.[30] He proceeded to bribe

Lucca with other strongholds. In the city all was confusion. Ugolino was

turned out of the Dictatorship, he became Captain of the People. Not for

long, however, for soon he contrived to make himself tyrant again.

Now the Genoese, seeing they were like to get nothing out of their

prisoners by this, were anxious for a money ransom. But Ugolino, fearing

those brave men, broke the truce with Genoa, urging certain pirates of

Sardinia to attack the Genoese; and, in order to make sure of this,

while he himself went to his castle in the country, he arranged with

Ruggieri dei Ubaldini, the Archbishop, to expel the Guelphs, among them

his own nephew, from Pisa. The plot succeeded; but Pisa desired that the

Archbishop should for the future divide the power with Ugolino. To this

Ugolino would not agree, and in a rage he slew the nephew of the

Archbishop. Meanwhile, Ugolino's nephew, Nino Visconti, was plotting

with him to return. This came to the ears of Ruggieri, who called the

Ghibellines to arms, and at last succeeded in capturing Ugolino and his

family, after days of fighting. Well had Marco Lombardo, that "wise and

valiant man of affairs," told him, "The wrath of God is the only thing

lacking to you."

"Of a truth," says Villani, the old Florentine Chronicler,--"of a truth

the wrath of God soon came upon him, as it pleased God, because of his

treacheries and crimes; for when the Archbishop of Pisa and his

followers had succeeded in driving out Nino and his party, by the

counsel and treachery of Count Ugolino the forces of the Guelphs were

diminished; and then the Archbishop took counsel how to betray Count

Ugolino; and in a sudden uproar of the people he was attacked and

assaulted at the palace, the Archbishop giving the people to understand

that he had betrayed Pisa, and given up their fortresses to the

Florentines and the Lucchesi; and, being without any defence, the people

having turned against him, he surrendered himself prisoner; and at the

said assault one of his bastard sons and one of his grandsons were

slain, and Count Ugolino was taken and two of his sons and three

grandsons, his son's children, and they were put in prison; and his

household and followers, the Visconti and Ubizinghi, Guatini and all the

other Guelph houses, were driven out of Pisa. Thus was the traitor

betrayed by the traitor.... In the said year 1288, in the said month of

March ... the Pisans chose for their captain Count Guido of Montefeltro,

giving him wide jurisdiction and lordship; and he passed the boundaries

of Piedmont, within which he was confined by his terms of surrender to

the Church, and came to Pisa; for which thing he and his sons and family

and all the commonwealth of Pisa were excommunicated by the Church of

Rome, as rebels and enemies against Holy Church. And when the said Count

was come to Pisa ... the Pisans, which had put in prison Count Ugolino

and his two sons, and two sons of Count Guelpho his son ... in the tower

on the Piazza degli Anziani, caused the door of the said tower to be

locked and the keys thrown into Arno, and refused to the said prisoners

any food, which in a few days died there of hunger. And albeit first the

said Count demanded with cries to be shriven; yet did they not grant him

a friar or a priest to confess him. And when all the five dead bodies

were taken out of the tower, they were buried without honour; and

thenceforward the said prison was called the Tower of Hunger, and will

be always[31]."

Enough of Ugolino. Count Guido, that mystical, fierce soul from Urbino,

seeing danger everywhere, called the whole city to the army. Florence

had allied herself with Lucca and Genoa[32]. Count Guido's business was

to beat them. He did it[33]; so that by the Assumption of Our Lady in

1292 he had won back again nearly all the lost fortresses, and wrung

peace from the Guelph League. Nevertheless, Pisa was compelled to

sacrifice her captain, and to see Genoa established in Corsica and in

part of Sardinia; also she had to pay 160,000 lire to Genoa for the

Pisan captives, and in Elba to admit Genoese trade free of tax.

Some idea of the glory of Pisa even when she had suffered so much may be

had, perhaps, from Tronci's account of that Festival of the Assumption

of the Blessed Virgin as it was kept in August 1293, when the peace had

been signed.

The Anziani, Tronci tells us[34], "were used, for a month before the

Festa, to publish it in the following manner. Twenty horses covered all

with scarlet, went out of the city bearing twenty youths dressed in

fanciful and rich costumes. The first two carried two banners, one of

the Comunità, the other of the Popolo. Two others carried two lances of

silver washed with gold, on which were the Imperial eagles. Two others

bore on their fists two living eagles crowned with gold. The rest

followed in a company, dressed in rich liveries. There came after, the

trumpeters of the Comunità with the silver trumpets, and others with

fifes and wind instruments of divers loudness, and they proclaimed the

_Palii_ which were to be won on land and water.

"On land, the first prize was of red velvet lined with fur, with a great

eagle of silver. This he received who first reached the goal. To the

second was given a silken stuff of the value of thirty gold florins, to

the third in jest was offered a pair of geese and a bunch of garlic. On

the water the race was rowed in little galleys and brigantini. He who

came in first won a Bull covered with scarlet, and fifty _scudi_; the

second a piece of silken stuff with thirty gold florins, the third got

only geese and garlic.

"On the first day of August were placed on the towers of the city,

certainly some 16,000 in number, three banners on each of them; one with

the Imperial eagle, another of the Commune, and the third of the People.

In like manner, on the cupola, façade, and corners of the Duomo, on S.

Giovanni, on the Campo Santo and the Campanile, these banners flew not

only on the top, but at all the angles of the columns. The same were

seen on all the churches of the city, and on all the palaces, the

Palazzo Pubblico, the Palace of the Podestà, the Palazzo del Capitano

del Conservatore, the Corte del Consulato di Mare, on the palaces of the

Mercati and of the seven Arti. The Contado followed the example of the

city; and thus it continued all the month of August. And the whole

people of every sort made great rejoicing and feasting, to which

foreigners were particularly invited.

"At the first Vespers of the Festa, the Anziani went to the Duomo in

state: and before them walked the maidens dressed in new costumes; and

after came the trumpeters, and the Captain with his company, and all the

other lesser magistrates. When they were come to the Cathedral, the

Archbishop, vested _a Pontificale_, began solemn Vespers. This ended, a

youth mounted into the pulpit and chanted a prayer in praise of the

Assumption of the Most Glorious Virgin. Then Matins was sung; and that

finished, the procession made its way round about the church, and was

joined by all the Companies and the Regulars, carrying each man a candle

of wax of half a pound weight, alight in his hands. The Clergy followed

with the Canons and the Archbishop with lighted candles of greater

weight; and last came the Anziani, the Podestà, the Captain and other

Magistrates, the Representatives of the Arti, and all the People with

lights of wax in their hands. And the procession being over, all went to

see the illuminations, the bonfires, and the festa, through the city.

"On the morning of the Festa, the _ceri_ were placed on the _trabacche_,

that were more than sixty in number, carried, by boys dressed in

liveries, with much pomp. Immediately after followed the Anziani, the

Podestà, and the Captain of the People with all the other Magistrates

and Officials and the people, with the Company of Horse richly dressed

and with the Companies of Foot; and a little after came all the _arti_,

carrying each one his great _cero_ all painted, and accompanied by all

the wind instruments. It was a thing sweet to hear and beautiful to see.

The offering made, they went out to bring the silver girdle[35] borne

with great pomp on a _carretta_; and there assisted all the clergy in

procession with exquisite music both of voices and of instruments. The

usual ceremonies being over, they encircled the Cathedral, and hung the

girdle to the irons that were set round about. Yes, it was this girdle

of a great value and very beautiful that was spoken of through the whole

world, so that from many a city of Italy people came in haste to see it;

but to-day there is nothing of it left save a small particle[36]."

Misfortune certainly had not broken the spirit of Pisa. And so it is not

surprising that, though she dared scarcely fly her flag on the seas, on

land she thought to hold her own. No doubt this hope was strengthened by

the advent in 1312 of Henry VII of Luxembourg. With him on her side she

dreamed of the domination of Tuscany. But it was not to be. She found

money and arms in his cause and her own. She opened a new war with the

Guelph League; she suspended her own Government and made him lord of

Pisa. He remained with her two months, and then in 1313 he died at

Buonconvento. They buried him sadly in the Duomo. The two million

florins she had expended were lost for ever. Frederick of Sicily,

Henry's ally, though he came to Pisa, refused the proferred lordship, as

did Henry of Savoy; and at last Pisa placed herself under the Imperial

Vicar of Genoa, for that city also had been delivered by her nobles into

the hands of Henry VII.

Uguccione della Faggiuola, the Imperial Vicar of Genoa, remained, as

Imperial legate, Podestà, Captain of the People, and Elector, bringing

with him one thousand German horse. The rest of the army of Henry

returned over the Alps. Pisa thought herself on the verge of ruin; she

must make terms with her foes. This being done, there appeared to be no

further need for Uguccione, whose German troops were expensive, and

whose presence did but anger the Guelphs. Uguccione was a man of

enormous strength, brave, too, and resolute, swift to decide an issue,

wise in council, but a barbarian. What had he to do with peace. His

business was war, as he very soon let the Pisans know. Nor were they

slow to take him at his word. Pisa was never beaten. Uguccione marched

through the streets with the living eagles of the Empire borne before

him. Before long he had deprived the Guelphs of power, and was

practically tyrant of Pisa. Everything now seemed to depend on victory.

Lucca scarcely ten miles away, Guelph by tradition and hatred of Pisa,

was in an uproar. Uguccione saw his chance and took it; he flung himself

on the city and delivered it up to its own factions while the Pisans

sacked it. Nor did they spare the place. The spoil was enormous; among

the rest, a large sum belonging to the Pope fell into their hands.

Florence and her allies sprang to arms. Uguccione took up the challenge,

burnt the lands of Pistoja and San Miniato al Tedesco, ravaged the

vineyards of Volterra, seized the fortresses of Val di Nievole, and at

last besieged Montecatini.

It was now that the Ghibellines of Lucca with Castruccio Castracani

joined Uguccione. They met the army of Florence at Montecatini.

Machiavelli states that Uguccione fell ill, and had no part in the

battle, which was won by Castruccio. Villari, however, gives the glory

to Uguccione.

It might seem that Uguccione, whether ill or not on the day of battle,

was jealous, and perhaps afraid, of Castruccio. Certainly he plotted

against him, sending his son Nerli to Lucca with orders to trap

Castruccio and imprison him; which was done. Nerli, however, wanted

resolution to kill him; and his father hearing this, set out from Pisa

with four hundred horse to take the matter in hand. The Pisans, who were

by this time completely enslaved by Uguccione, seized the opportunity to

rise. Macchiavelli tells us "they cut his Deputies' throats, and slew

all his Family. Now, that he might be sure they were in earnest, they

chose the Conte de Gherardesca, and made him their Governor." When

Uguccione got to Lucca he found the city in an uproar, and the people

demanding the release of Castruccio. This he was compelled to allow.

With Castruccio at liberty, Lucca was too hot for him, and he fled into

Lombardy to the Lords of Scala, where no long time after, he died.

After the great victory of Montecatini, Gherardesca and Castruccio soon

came to terms with the Guelphs; and all that Pisa really seems to have

gained by the war was that she was compelled to build a hospital and

chapel for the repose of the souls of the dead at Montecatini. This

chapel, hidden away in the Casa dei Trovatelli at the top of Via S.

Maria in Pisa, became a glorious monument of the victory of Pisa over

Florence.

But the freedom of Pisa was gone for ever; others, lords and tyrants,

arose, Castruccio Castracani and the rest, yet she was still at bay. On

the 2nd October 1325 she again defeated Florence at Altopascio, and even

excluded her from the port, and, in 1341, when Florence had bought Lucca

from Mastino della Scala for 250,000 florins, she besieged it to prevent

the entry of the Florentine army then aided by Milan, Mantova, and

Padova, In 1342, the Florentines having failed to relieve Lucca, the

Pisans entered the city. The possession of Lucca seemed to put Pisa,

where centuries ago Luitprand had placed her, at the head of the

province of Tuscany. This view, which certainly she herself was not slow

to take, was confirmed when Volterra and Pistoja placed themselves under

her protection; yet, as ever, her greatest danger was the discord within

her walls. The Republic was weak, nearly a million and a half of florins

had been spent on the war, and many tyrants were her allies; moreover,

she had lent troops to Milan.[37] It was this moment of reaction after

so great an effort that Visconti d'Oleggio chose for a conspiracy

against Gherardesca the Captain-General. It is true the plot was

discovered, the traitors exiled, and Visconti banished; but the mischief

was done. When Lucchino Visconti heard of it in Milan, he imprisoned the

Pisan troops in that city and sent Visconti d'Oleggio back with two

thousand men to seize Pisa. Thus the war dragged on; and though these

Milanese were destroyed for the most part by malaria in the Maremma,

still Pisa had no rest. After Visconti came famine, and after the famine

the Black Death. Seventy in every hundred of the population died, Tronci

tells us,[38] while during the famine, bread, such as it was, had to be

distributed every day at the taverns. Then followed a revolution in the

city. Count Raniero of the Gherardesca house had succeeded to the

Captain-Generalship of Pisa as though it were his right by birth. This

brought him many enemies; and, indeed, the city was in uproar for some

years: for, while he was so young, Dino della Rocca acted for him. Among

the more powerful enemies of della Rocca was Andrea Gambacorti, whose

family was soon to enslave the city. Now the one party was called

_Bergolini_, for they had named Raniero Bergo for hate, and of these

Gambacorti was chief. The other party which was at this time in power,

as I have said, was named _Raspanti_, which is to say graspers, and of

them Dino della Rocca was head. In the midst of this disputing Raniero

died, and the Raspanti were accused of having murdered him, among others

by Gambacorti. Every sort of device to heal these wounds was resorted

to; marriages and oaths all alike failed. The city blazed with their

arson every night, till at last the people rose and expelling the

Raspanti, chose Andrea Gambacorti for captain. This happened in 1348.

Seven years later, Charles IV, on his way to Rome to be crowned, came to

the city. Now the Conte di Montescudaio was known to Charles, who years

before had ruled in Lucca; therefore the Raspanti, of when Montescudaio

was one, took heart, and at the moment when Charles was in the Duomo

receiving the homage of the city, they roused the people assembled in

the Piazza, shouting for the Emperor and Liberty; but Charles heeded

them not. Nevertheless Gambacorti, to save himself, thought fit to give

Charles the lordship of the city; but the people, angered at this,

demanded their liberty, so that the magistrates, fearing for peace,

reconciled the two factions, who then together demanded of Charles his

new lordship. And he gave it them with as good a grace as he could, for

his men were few. Then again he heard from Lucca. There, too, they

demanded liberty, and especially from the dominion of Pisa, and, it is

said, the Lucchesi in France gave him 20,000 florins for this. But Pisa

heard of it. When Charles sent his troops to occupy Lucca, the Raspanti

saw their opportunity and rose. They put themselves at the head of the

people, who slew one hundred and fifty of Charles's Germans, and held

Charles himself a prisoner in the Duomo, where he lodged since the

Palazzo Comunale had been fired. Montescudaio, however, secretly joined

Charles with his men; he burnt the houses of the Gambacorti and

dispersed the mob. Apparently Lucca was free. But Charles had reckoned

without the Pisan garrison in the subject city. They fired their

beacons, and Pisa saw the blaze. It was enough, their dominion was in

danger; there were no longer any factions; Raspanti and Bergolini alike

stood together for Pisa. They streamed out of the great Porta a Lucca to

the relief of their own people, and though six thousand armed peasants

opposed them, they won to Lucca and took it, the Pisani still holding

the gates. Then they fired the city, and when the flames closed in round

S. Michele the Lucchesi surrendered. Thus they served their enemies. But

Charles had his revenge. He seized the Gambacorti, and appointing a

judge, having given instructions to find them guilty, tried them and

beheaded seven of them in Piazza degli Anziani, in spite of the rage of

Pisa. Then, with a large amount of treasure, of which he had spoiled the

Pisans, he fled back with his barbarians to his Germany. And as soon as

he was gone the city took Montescudaio and sent him into exile[39], with

the remaining Gambacorti also. So Charles left Pisa more Ghibelline than

he found her.

It was at this time that Pisa really began to see perhaps her true

danger from Florence. Certainly she did everything to prick her into

war. But Florence was already victorious. Her answer was more disastrous

than any battle; she took her trade from the port of Pisa to the Sienese

port Talamone. Then Florence purchased Volterra, over the head of Pisa

as it were; and at last, careless whether it pleased the Pisans or no,

she permitted the Gambacorti to make raid upon Pisan territory, and

allowed Giovanni di Sano, who had lately been in her service, to seize a

fortress in the territory of Lucca. The peace was broken. On the brink

of ruin, ravaged by plague, Pisa turned to confront her hard, merciless

foe. For months Florence ravaged her territory, while she, too weak to

strike a blow in her own honour, could but hold her gates. Then the

plague left her, and she rose.

Bernabò Visconti was sending her help for 150,000 florins.[40] The

English were on the way; already over the mountains, Hawkwood and his

White Company were coming to save her; meantime she tried to strike for

herself. Pietro Farnese of the Florentines laid her low, taking one

hundred and fifty prisoners and her general. The English tarried, but a

new ally was already by her side. The Black Death which had brought down

her pride, now fell upon the enemy, both in camp and in their city of

the Lily: and then--the English were come. On the 1st of February 1364,

Hawkwood, with a thousand horse and two thousand foot, drove the

Florentines through the Val di Nievole; he harried them above Vinci and

chased them through Serravalle, crushed them at Castel di Montale, and

scattered them in the valley of Arno. They found their city at last, as

foxes find their holes, and went to earth. There Pisa halted. Before the

gates of Pisa the Florentines for years had struck money: so the Pisans

did before Florence. Nor was this all. Halting there three days, says

the chronicle,[41] "they caused three palii to be run well-nigh to the

gates of Florence. One was on horseback, another was on foot, and the

third was run by loose women (_le feminine mundane_); and they caused

newly-made priests to sing Mass there, and they coined money of divers

kinds of gold and of silver; and on one side thereof was Our Lady, with

Her Son in Her arms; on the other side was the Eagle, with the Lion

beneath its feet.... Thereafter for further dispite they set up a pair

of gallows over against the gate of Florence, and hanged thereon three

asses."

Florence refused to submit. Other Free Companies such as Hawkwood's

joined in the war. The Florentines hired that of the Star. But Hawkwood

was not to be denied. He marched up Arno, devastating the country, and

at last deigned to return to Pisa by Cortona and Siena.

Then Florence did what might have been expected. She bribed Baumgarten,

who with his Germans had fought since the rout with Hawkwood. They met

at the Borgo di Cascina on 28th July. Hawkwood was caught napping, and

Pisa in her turn was humbled. The Florentines returned with two thousand

prisoners, having slain a thousand men. They took with them "forty-two

wagons full of prisoners, all packed together 'like melons,' with a dead

eagle tied by the neck and dragging along the ground."[42] Such was war

in Italy in the fourteenth century.

Then followed the Doge Agnello: the greatness of Pisa was past.

It had ever been the plan of Milan to weaken Florence by aiding Pisa,

and to weaken Pisa by this continual war, for it was the Visconti's

dream to carry their dominion into Tuscany. Now at this time, amid all

these disasters, the Pisan ambassador at Milan was a certain Giovanni

dell' Agnello, a merchant, ambitious but without honour. This plebeian

readily lent himself to the Visconti to betray the city, if thereby he

might win power; and this Visconti promised him, for, said he, "if I win

Pisa, you shall be my lieutenant, and all the world will take you even

for my ally."

Agnello went back to Pisa full of this dream:[43] and at the first

opportunity suggested that Visconti would be flattered if a Lord were

to be elected in Pisa, if only for a year at a time; and in his subtilty

he proposed Pietro d' Albizzo da Vico, a very much respected (_di gran

stima_) citizen, as Lord. But Messer Pietro replied by asking to be sent

with other citizens to Pescia to arrange the peace with Florence. Then a

certain Vanni Botticella applied for the post; and Agnello praised him

for his patriotism, but asked him whether he had money enough to be

Lord. Certainly Pisa had fallen. By this Agnello was suspected, and

indeed one night certain citizens got leave to search his house, for

they believed him to be a traitor[44]. But he had warning, and already

Hawkwood had sold himself, for it was his business. So, when those

citizens had returned disappointed, for they found Agnello abed, he

arose and joined his bandits. With Hawkwood he went to the Palazzo dei

Anziani, bound the guard and had the Elders summoned, and told them a

tale of how the Blessed Virgin had bidden him assume the lordship of the

city. Well, he had his way, his bandits saw to that; so the Anziani

agreed and swore obedience. Next day Pisa acclaimed her Doge.

Agnello remained Doge, or Lord as he preferred to be called, for four

years. Then Charles IV marched back over the Alps into Italy. Bought off

and thwarted in Lombardy, he came towards Lucca, which the Lucchesi

exiles again offered to buy from him. Agnello was terrified. In haste he

sent to Charles offering to give him Lucca if he were made sure in Pisa.

Outside the walls of Lucca, Charles knighted this astute tradesman.

Agnello ran back to Pisa and conferred knighthood on his nephews. Then

he built a platform and awaited the Emperor. His end was in keeping with

his life. As he stood on the insecure "hustings" which he had built,

that in sight of all the people Charles might declare him Imperial Vicar

of Pisa, the platform collapsed and Agnello's leg was broken. Now,

whether the comic spirit, so helpful to justice, be strong in our Pisans

still, I know not, but on learning of the misfortune of their Lord, they

rose, and, without noticing their Imperial Vicar, appointed Anziani to

rule by the old laws.

Then the burghers and nobles--"Cittadini amatori della Patria," Tronci

calls them--formed the Campagnia di S. Michele, for it bore on its

gonfalon St. Michael Archangel, and the black eagle of the Empire. It

was the business of this company to restore peace and unity to the city.

The leaders resolved to recall the exiles, among them Pietro Gambacorti.

He came, and the city greeted him, and he swore to serve the Republic

and to forgive his enemies. A riot followed; the Bergolini armed

themselves and burnt the Gambacorti palaces. But Pietro Gambacorti

called to the city, which had risen to defend itself and to make

reprisals, saying, "I have pardoned them--I, whose parents they slew. By

what right do you refuse to do what I have done?"[45] The Bergolini took

the government, and there was peace. Then the Campagnia di S. Michele

broke up.

Not for long, however, could there be peace in Pisa. The Raspanti still

held one of the gates; and thinking to better themselves, they sent an

embassy to Charles, who was in Lucca, asking his help. He imprisoned the

embassy, and at once sent his Germans to seize the city. But the Pisans

heard of it. They rang the great bells in the Campanile, and barricaded

the gates with the benches and stalls in the Duomo, on the Baptistery

they set their bowmen, and on the Campanile the slingers. Then they tore

up the streets, and waited to give death for death. The Germans,

however, were easily beaten and bought off, and Pisa again returned to

her internal quarrels.

Out of these sprang, in 1385, Pietro Gambacorti, as Captain of the

people. It was the beginning of the last twenty years of Pisa's life as

an independent city. She now stood between Visconti in the north and

Florence close at hand. Florence was her friend against Visconti for

her own sake: she meant to have Pisa herself. Gambacorti did his best.

With infinite tact he kept friends with both cities. Under him Pisa

seemed to regain something of her old confidence and prosperity. A man

of fine courage, simplicity, and passing honest, he was incapable of

suspecting a tried friend whom he had benefited. Yet it was by the hand

of such an one he fell.

Jacopo d'Appiano's father had been exiled with Gambacorti in 1348. Like

many another Pisan house which had risen from nothing, Appiano was at

feud with certain of his fellow-citizens, among them the Lanfranchi

family. For this cause he kept a guard about him. Now Gambacorti, who

remembered his father's exile, made Appiano permanent "Chancellor of the

Republic": and hoping to reconcile the Lanfranchi with the new

chancellor, he sent for Lanfranchi, but the bandits of Appiano murdered

him as he went thither, and then joined Appiano in his house. Gambacorti

ordered his chancellor to deliver them up, but he refused. Then the

Bergolini offered Gambacorti their assistance, but he refused it,

trusting to justice. Appiano, however, at the head of the Raspanti,

marched to the palace of Gambacorti. The city was in arms, and they had

to fight their way. Arrived before the palace, Gambacorti ordering his

men not to shoot his friend, agreed to confer with Appiano. So he went

out of his house, and as Appiano stretched out his hand, in token, as it

were, of friendship, his bandits fell upon him and slew him. A fight

followed, in which the Bergolini were beaten; then Appiano became

Captain of the People. In truth, it was only a device of Visconti for

seizing the city. Appiano admitted the Milanese, and what Agnello had

failed to do, he did, for he ruled as the creature of Gian Galeazzo. But

there is no honour among thieves. Soon Visconti, hoping to win Pisa all

for himself, plotted against Appiano. The quarrel went on, Appiano

fearing to make treaty with Florence lest he should fall, and fearing,

too, to decide with Visconti lest he should be murdered, till he died,

and his son became Captain, only to sell Pisa to Visconti for 200,000

florins, with Elba also, and many castles.[46] Then Gian Galeazzo died

in 1404.

Now Florence knew that in the confusion which followed the death of the

great Visconti, Pisa was weak and almost without defence, so without

hesitation she sent an army to seize the city: but Pisa, always at her

best in danger, worked night and day, nor was any man idle in building

fortifications. In Genoa the Frenchman Boucicault, who had held that

city, came to her assistance, for the last thing Genoa or Milan desired

was to see Pisa and her port in the hands of Florence. Boucicault

imprisoned all the Florentines in Genoa, and seized Livorno, nor would

he agree to release his prisoners till Florence had signed a four years'

peace. But Pisa soon wearied of this. In the grip of Genoa, fearing

Visconti, unable to save herself, she revolted, and Boucicault sold her

to Florence, for he had to defend himself in Genoa. It was in August

1405 that Pisa was given up to Florence, but although for a moment

Florence then held the city, she was to fight for it in earnest before

she could hold it for good. As yet she only possessed the citadel, and

by a ruse the Pisans managed to win that from her: then they sent to

Florence to negotiate. They offered to buy their freedom, but Florence

was obdurate. She was determined to possess herself of Pisa; her armies

were ordered to advance.

Pisa was ready. At that moment all feuds were forgotten; a united city

opposed the Florentines: there was but one way to take it--by famine.

And it was thus at last, on 9th October 1406, Pisa fell. Preferring to

die rather than to surrender, it would have been into a city of the dead

that the armies of Florence would have marched, but for the brutal

treachery of Giovanni Gambacorti. As it was, it was only a city of the

dying that Florence occupied. After every kind of heroic effort,

Giovanni Gambacorti sold Pisa when she was too weak to fight, save

against a declared enemy, for 50,000 florins, the citizenship of

Florence and Borgo to rule. He opened the gates, and Florence streamed

in. There was scarcely a crust left in the city which was at last

become the vassal of Florence.

Here, truly, the chronicles of Pisa end--in the horrid cruelty, scorn,

and disdain so characteristic of the Florentine. Certainly with the

Medici a more humane government was adopted, so that in 1472 we read of

Lorenzo Magnifico restoring the University to something of its old

splendour, but nothing he could do was able to extinguish the undying

hatred of Pisa for those who had stolen away her liberty. In 1494 that

carnival army of Charles VIII, winding through the valleys and over the

mountains, seemed to offer them a hope of freedom. They welcomed him

with every sort of joy, and hurled the Marzocco and the Gonfalon of

Florence into Arno, all to no purpose. And truly without hope, from 1479

to 1505, they bore heroically three sieges and flung back three

different armies of Florence. Soderini and Macchiavelli urged on the

war. In 1509, Macchiavelli, that mysterious great man, besieged her on

three sides, and at last, forced by hunger and famine, Pisa admitted him

on the 8th June. It was her last fight for liberty. But she had won for

herself the respect of her enemies. A more humane and moderate policy

was adopted in dealing with her. Nevertheless, as in 1406, so now, her

citizens fled away, so that there was scarcely left a Pisan in Pisa for

the victor to rule.

Grand Duke Cosimo seems to have loved her. It was there he founded his

Order of the Knights of St. Stephen to harry the pirates in the

Mediterranean. Still she was a power on the sea, though in the service

of another. And though dead, she yet lived, for she is of those who

cannot die. The ever-glorious name of Galileo Galilei crowns her

immortality. Born within her walls, he taught at her University, and his

first experiments in the knowledge of the law of gravity were made from

her bell-tower, while, as it is said, the great lamp of her Duomo taught

him the secret of the pendulum.

Looking on her to-day, remembering her immortal story, one thinks only

of the beauty that is from of old secure in silence on that meadow among

the daisies just within her walls.

Florence and Northern Tuscany with Genoa With Sixteen Illustrations in Colour by William Parkinson and Sixteen Other Illustrations, Second Edition · 第 26 / 105 题