(16 miles--8 hours)
If one were so time-poor as to have but one day in Yosemite, he should
by all means climb to Glacier Point via Vernal and Nevada Falls and
return via the Short Trail. This most scenic trip is easily made afoot
in one day and should be taken as follows rather than in the opposite
direction because (_a_) one faces the falls in ascending, and (_b_)
the gradual ascent is less tiring. Early in the season it is a good
plan to carry a sack or newspaper for protection while passing thru
the mist of Vernal Falls.
The ~Vernal and Nevada Falls Trail~ starts near Happy Isles Bridge,
2.3 miles from Yosemite Village. The trail leaves the road at the
right just beyond the bridge, or we may take the footpath through
~Happy Isles~, crossing the river on a foot-log and joining the main
trail a quarter mile above. Ascending the canyon, the trail climbs 200
feet above the roaring Merced, which was here called by the Indians
the "Yanopah" or "water cloud," referring to the mist of Vernal Falls.
A quarter of a mile from the bridge is a fine spring. Here the ~Sierra
Point Trail~ (Trail Trip 12) turns left. Rounding the base of ~Grizzly
Peak~ we pass opposite the mouth of ~Illilouette Canyon~ and see
~Illilouette Falls~ (Drop 350 feet) at its head. The name is a
corruption of the Indian name, Too-tool-a-we-ack. The small dam in the
river below diverts water to the Happy Isles Power House. To the left
of Illilouette Canyon is ~Panorama Cliff~, along the rim of which our
trail runs after a three-hour climb by the Mist Trail (one hour longer
by horse trail).
Descending 100 feet the trail crosses ~Vernal Bridge~, from which is a
fine view of ~Vernal Falls~, a half mile distant. Near this point was
the old Indian Camp of Ap´-poo-meh. Straight ahead the horse trail
climbs 1600 feet and then descends to the top of Vernal Falls.
Pedestrians should take the much more scenic ~Mist Trail~, which turns
left just beyond the bridge, saving thereby one hour and several
hundred feet climb. Paralleling the river we pass ~Lady Franklin
Rock~, from whence may be obtained excellent photographs of Vernal
Falls. The trail mounts thru the boulder-strewn forest and finally
rounds a rocky point on a narrow ledge. Use extreme caution on
slippery wet rocks! We now enter the mist, traversing the luxuriant
garden of flowers and grasses which gives the fall its name. Between
10 and 12 a.m. beautiful ~circular rainbows~ may be seen in the mist.
Climbing the steep slope at the right we obtain fine profiles of the
fall. The trail then swings beneath an overhanging cliff and mounts a
steep narrow ledge to the top of ~Vernal Falls~ (Alt. 5049, Drop 317
feet). The Indians called the fall "Yan-o-pah," or "water cloud,"
which was also the name for the canyon below. Over the rim of the
natural granite parapet we have an excellent outlook down the canyon.
By climbing along the rim southeast of the falls we find a ladder and
hanging trail descending to a grotto, from which a good view of
Glacier Point is obtained.
Above Vernal Falls we pass a glacial tarn called ~Emerald Pool~, at
the upper end of which the Merced rushes down over smooth granite,
forming the beautiful ~Silver Apron~ and ~Waterwheel~.
Just above is the ~Diamond Cascade~ and bridge. Our trail now joins
the horse trail, which descends from the slope above. Crossing the
river at Diamond Cascade, the trail ascends to ~Snow Flat~ below
~Liberty Cap~ (Alt. 7072), which towers above to the left. This
granite dome, the Mah'-ta, or "Martyr Mountain" of the Indians, can be
ascended by a difficult climb up its eastern flank. Good rock-climbers
will find an interesting scramble up the deep defile between this dome
and ~Mt. Broderick~ (Alt. 6705) just northward. At the left of the
trail is the site of the old La Casa Nevada Hotel (The Snow House),
which was built in the early days and burned down in 1897. The old
register is in the Yosemite Museum. The rockslide to the left fell
from the face of Liberty Cap in 1918. Fishing is fair from Diamond
Cascade to Nevada Falls. The trail turns left and mounts 500 feet by
the famous ~Nevada Falls Zigzags~. When white men first visited
Yosemite, part of the Merced descended in a cascade where the trail is
now built. At the top of the switchbacks the trail to ~Little
Yosemite~, ~Clouds Rest~, ~Tuolumne Meadows~ and ~Merced Lake~ (Trail
Trips 13, 5, 8 and 7) continues up the canyon. There is here a
government telephone (Central 1 ring). The new location of a
refreshment stand and rest house in the vicinity is indicated by a
sign.
Our trail turns right and crosses a small bridge, thence turning
southwest to the top of ~Nevada Falls~ (Alt. 5910, Height 594 ft.).
Nevada is "snow" in Spanish and replaces the old Indian name Yo-wy-we.
Note especially the shooting spray rockets. These are most wonderful
when painted by first rays of sunshine at 7.30 to 8 a.m. Many claim
that, looking down from the rim, the Nevada is the valley's most
fascinating and beautiful fall. Above this point the river was called
by the Yosemite Tribe "Yo-wy-we-ack," or the "twisting rock" branch.
Crossing the river just above the falls, the trail climbs abruptly 700
feet by switchbacks. At the summit the ~Mono Meadow~ and ~Merced Pass
Trail~ up ~Illilouette Creek~ turns left (Trail Trip 23). Our trail
turns right and follows the rim of ~Panorama Cliff~ almost level for
about one mile to ~Panorama Point~ (Alt. 6224). From here is a fine
view of ~Royal Arches~, ~Washington Column~ and ~North Dome~ across
the head of ~Yosemite Valley~, and of ~Half Dome~ and ~Grizzly Peak~
to the right. The trail descends 400 feet to the top of ~Illilouette
Falls~ (Alt. 5850, Fall 370 ft.). Good fishing is reported in upper
~Illilouette Creek~. Exploration up this canyon will well repay those
interested in glacial phenomena.
Climbing out of the ~Illilouette Canyon~, the trail runs north thru
open forest. The fallen trees and prostrate bushes are caused by
snow-slides from ~Illilouette Ridge~ above (Alt. 8250. Fine view from
summit). As the trail climbs, the view of ~Mt. Starr King~, ~Mt.
Clark~ and the ~High Sierra~ gradually unfolds. The trail joining from
the south leads to ~Buena Vista Lake~ and ~Royal Arch Lake~ (Trail
Trip 22). From one point in the ascent is an especially good profile
of ~Half Dome~ across the canyon. Following along granite ledges the
trail passes ~Glacier Point Hotel~ (Alt. 7200), from which is a most
comprehensive panorama of the High Sierra. Accommodations are
excellent and one should remain here over night if possible to see the
sunrise. ~Glacier Point~ and the overhanging rock are about 200 yards
beyond the hotel. This lookout point was called Patill'ima by the
Yosemite Tribe. From here we obtain what is without doubt the vastest
and most awe-inspiring view readily accessible to tourists. The valley
floor is 3250 feet below. An inclined shaft elevator thru solid
granite from the foot of the cliff is being planned. For trips from
Glacier Point see Trail Trips 16 to 23.
The descent from Glacier Point to Yosemite is generally made by the
~Short Trail~ (5 miles, 1-1/2 hour walk). From the hotel the trail
follows westward along the canyon wall. Rounding a point we get an
excellent profile view of the ~Gates of the Valley~ with ~Sentinel
Rock at~ the left and ~El Capitan~ at the right. Descending 900 feet
by switchbacks thru a forest of fir, sugar pine, yellow pine, Douglas
fir and incense cedar, we reach ~Union Point~ (Alt. 6314--2350 feet
above the valley floor). There is here a refreshment stand where
cooling drinks and light lunches may be obtained. A short distance
from the point is a shelter cabin and a government telephone (Central
1 ring).
Descending past ~Agassiz Column~, a huge balancing shaft of granite,
the trail zigzags down the mountain side, emerging at several vantage
points from which are obtained especially fine views of ~Half Dome~
and the north end of the valley. The character of the forest now
changes, oaks and laurel entering to replace the diminishing fir. The
trail terminates at the foot of ~Sentinel Rock~ at the site of the old
Camp Awahnee and the more ancient Indian village of Loi'-ah. Yosemite
is 1.3 miles distant by road to the right. During the season a regular
auto-bus service is maintained between this and other valley points.