CHAPTER XIII

THE AMERICAN COLLEGE AT ASYUT

At Asyut up the Nile valley about as far south of the Mediterranean as

Washington is south of Buffalo, the United Presbyterians of the United

States have established a training college for young Egyptians which is

doing a wonderful work. I came from Cairo to see it, winding my way in

and out along the great river. The valley is narrow above Cairo, being

only from three to nine miles in width, so that from the railroad I

could see the yellow sand on both sides of the green, watered strip. We

were sometimes far out in the desert, and sometimes moving in and out

of the irrigated lands. We passed mud villages which border the river

and the larger canals. The date trees hanging over them were loaded with

honey-coloured fruit. Upper Egypt has vast numbers of dates. There are in

the whole country something like eight million of these palms, which, at

a rough estimate, bring in one dollar annually for every tree.

Asyut is the largest city in Egypt south of Cairo. It is the capital

of this part of the Nile valley and the chief centre of its commerce

and trade. Before the railroad was built, caravans from the Sudan

brought great quantities of merchandise from Central Africa to Asyut and

transferred it to other camel trains bound for Tripoli, Cairo, or Suez.

The railroad now carries this trade, and the iron tracks have been

extended southward beyond the city of Khartum. The gap in the railroad

between Shellal and Wady Halfa is filled by steamers on the river.

Asyut itself has many good buildings. Not far from the railroad station

are brick houses of two and three stories which would be considered fine

anywhere. They are owned by Copts, who started life poor and have become

millionaires. Most of the houses of the city are Egyptian in character,

flat-roofed buildings of one, two, and three stories, facing the street.

Many of them are new and substantially built. The bazaars are far better

than when first I visited Asyut, and the town, which has now over fifty

thousand people, is double the size it was then.

The Asyut Training College is a missionary institution, but it gives a

good general education. It is run upon broad lines and has among its

students Mohammedans, Copts, and other Christians. This is about the only

one of our Protestant denominations that is working here, the other sects

having apparently given up Egypt to it. This Church has mission stations

scattered throughout the Nile valley, and schools not only in Lower and

Upper Egypt but also in the Sudan, and even on the borders of Abyssinia.

There are more than fifteen thousand boys now being taught in its various

institutions. It is surprising that a large part of the money that the

mission is spending upon education comes from the natives themselves. In

one year over one hundred thousand dollars was spent, of which almost

eighty thousand was subscribed by the Egyptians. Of the fifteen thousand

in the schools, more than thirteen thousand are paying for tuition, so

that the institutions are largely self-supporting. The Egyptians of

to-day have learned the value of modern school training and are anxious

to have their sons go to college. They want them taught English and are

willing to pay something in order that they may get a good education.

I went through the college with its president, John Alexander, D.D., who

has been in charge for almost a generation. To him it is largely due that

it is the most successful institution of its kind in northern Africa. Dr.

Alexander is by birth an Ohioan. He was educated at Wooster University

and shortly after he left there he came to Egypt. He has lived here ever

since and he knows the people and their wants as well as any man. He

says that the natives are thoroughly alive to the advantages of modern

education and that they could use more schools and better facilities than

either the government or the mission can supply. He tells me that he has

to refuse many applications for entrance to the training school for lack

of room and that the college stands ready to erect new buildings as soon

as it can raise the money. It has already bought twenty acres of land at

the junction of the Nile and the great irrigating canal which runs from

here to the Faiyum, and it now needs only an appropriation for additional

buildings. My examination shows me that the institution is ably and

economically managed, and I know of no place where any one of our rich

men can better invest his surplus and have it pay big dividends in a

charitable way than right here.

This college is conducted on the dormitory plan. The majority of its

students live in the buildings and are continually under the eyes of

their professors. The training partakes somewhat of a military character.

The boys not only go to classrooms, but they have to attend chapel,

weekly prayer meeting, and Sunday-school. They are also compelled to take

part in college athletics. Twice a week they must engage in football and

tennis and every effort is made to develop them as our boys are being

developed. They study well and do good work on track and football field.

I should like to show you these Egyptian boys as I saw them to-day.

There were seven hundred and thirty of them in the campus when I went

through—bright-eyed, dark-faced young fellows, ranging in age from ten

to twenty years and coming from every class of Egyptian life. Some were

Mohammedans, the fatalistic, sober followers of the Prophet; others were

Copts, having the bronze faces, the high cheekbones, and the black eyes

which mark them as the descendants of those who oppressed the Israelites

when Pharaoh ruled. All the students wear red fezzes that extend about

eight inches above their heads and are kept on both in classroom and

chapel. They wear long gowns, often belted in at the waist, and look more

dignified than the college boy of America.

The students are of all classes and conditions. Many are working their

way through school. There are three scales of expense, graduated

according to the tables at which the boys eat. One class has a table

where all have knives and forks and the food furnished is as good and as

varied as can be found anywhere. This is for the rich, who can pay as

much as one hundred dollars a year for room and board. The second table

is filled by students who can afford to pay only fifty dollars a year,

and the third by those who cannot spare more than thirty-five dollars a

year. Of the students of the first class only two or three live in one

room, and of the second from four to eight, while those of the third are

lodged in large rooms accommodating twenty or thirty, each of whom has

his own bed, which he furnishes himself.

The boys of the second class have simpler food than those of the first

and eat with their fingers in native style. Those of the third class have

still cheaper food, but in all cases it is as good as or better than the

boys get at home, for here they have wheat bread and meat at least once a

week.

A pupil must pay a minimum fee of one dollar a session in money, but as

far as is possible he may work out the rest of his expenses. The average

tuition is only ten dollars a year.

This big American college is doing so much good for Egypt that it is

commended by the government and by every tourist who learns anything of

Egyptian affairs. It was founded in 1865 and its first work was done in

a donkey stable with five students. Dr. Hogg, a Scotch missionary, then

constituted the entire faculty. It has now seven large buildings, which

cover two acres, built around a campus shaded by date palms, and among

its professors are graduates from the best of our colleges, including

men from Princeton and Yale. It has not far from one thousand students,

who come from all parts of Egypt and even from the Sudan and the other

countries of northern Africa. These youths represent more than one

hundred towns throughout the Nile valley and the graduates are scattered

all over Egypt. Many of them are influential business men; some are

lawyers, doctors, and teachers, and others are government officials. The

graduates of the school are anxiously sought by the government as clerks.

Their training is considered better than that of the Mohammedan colleges,

where little except the Koranic law is taught, and they are found to be

trustworthy and of high moral character.

[Illustration: From Asyut come the famous metal shawls of silver or gold

on black or white. The bazaar is over a mile long, and before the days of

railroads was the trading place of caravan merchants from the south and

buyers from the north.]

[Illustration: The Egyptian complained that under British rule not enough

of his tax money was spent on native schools. Only twelve per cent of the

men and less than two per cent of the women can read and write.]

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