CHAPTER X—A PORTRAIT AND A STORY

I have had occasion several times to name the late bishop, Father

Dordillon, ‘Monseigneur,’ as he is still almost universally called,

Vicar-Apostolic of the Marquesas and Bishop of Cambysopolis _in

partibus_. Everywhere in the islands, among all classes and races, this

fine, old, kindly, cheerful fellow is remembered with affection and

respect. His influence with the natives was paramount. They reckoned

him the highest of men—higher than an admiral; brought him their money to

keep; took his advice upon their purchases; nor would they plant trees

upon their own land till they had the approval of the father of the

islands. During the time of the French exodus he singly represented

Europe, living in the Residency, and ruling by the hand of Temoana. The

first roads were made under his auspices and by his persuasion. The old

road between Hatiheu and Anaho was got under way from either side on the

ground that it would be pleasant for an evening promenade, and brought to

completion by working on the rivalry of the two villages. The priest

would boast in Hatiheu of the progress made in Anaho, and he would tell

the folk of Anaho, ‘If you don’t take care, your neighbours will be over

the hill before you are at the top.’ It could not be so done to-day; it

could then; death, opium, and depopulation had not gone so far; and the

people of Hatiheu, I was told, still vied with each other in fine attire,

and used to go out by families, in the cool of the evening, boat-sailing

and racing in the bay. There seems some truth at least in the common

view, that this joint reign of Temoana and the bishop was the last and

brief golden age of the Marquesas. But the civil power returned, the

mission was packed out of the Residency at twenty-four hours’ notice, new

methods supervened, and the golden age (whatever it quite was) came to an

end. It is the strongest proof of Father Dordillon’s prestige that it

survived, seemingly without loss, this hasty deposition.

His method with the natives was extremely mild. Among these barbarous

children he still played the part of the smiling father; and he was

careful to observe, in all indifferent matters, the Marquesan etiquette.

Thus, in the singular system of artificial kinship, the bishop had been

adopted by Vaekehu as a grandson; Miss Fisher, of Hatiheu, as a daughter.

From that day, Monseigneur never addressed the young lady except as his

mother, and closed his letters with the formalities of a dutiful son.

With Europeans he could be strict, even to the extent of harshness. He

made no distinction against heretics, with whom he was on friendly terms;

but the rules of his own Church he would see observed; and once at least

he had a white man clapped in jail for the desecration of a saint’s day.

But even this rigour, so intolerable to laymen, so irritating to

Protestants, could not shake his popularity. We shall best conceive him

by examples nearer home; we may all have known some divine of the old

school in Scotland, a literal Sabbatarian, a stickler for the letter of

the law, who was yet in private modest, innocent, genial and mirthful.

Much such a man, it seems, was Father Dordillon. And his popularity bore

a test yet stronger. He had the name, and probably deserved it, of a

shrewd man in business and one that made the mission pay. Nothing so

much stirs up resentment as the inmixture in commerce of religious

bodies; but even rival traders spoke well of Monseigneur.

His character is best portrayed in the story of the days of his decline.

A time came when, from the failure of sight, he must desist from his

literary labours: his Marquesan hymns, grammars, and dictionaries; his

scientific papers, lives of saints, and devotional poetry. He cast about

for a new interest: pitched on gardening, and was to be seen all day,

with spade and water-pot, in his childlike eagerness, actually running

between the borders. Another step of decay, and he must leave his garden

also. Instantly a new occupation was devised, and he sat in the mission

cutting paper flowers and wreaths. His diocese was not great enough for

his activity; the churches of the Marquesas were papered with his

handiwork, and still he must be making more. ‘Ah,’ said he, smiling,

‘when I am dead what a fine time you will have clearing out my trash!’

He had been dead about six months; but I was pleased to see some of his

trophies still exposed, and looked upon them with a smile: the tribute

(if I have read his cheerful character aright) which he would have

preferred to any useless tears. Disease continued progressively to

disable him; he who had clambered so stalwartly over the rude rocks of

the Marquesas, bringing peace to warfaring clans, was for some time

carried in a chair between the mission and the church, and at last

confined to bed, impotent with dropsy, and tormented with bed-sores and

sciatica. Here he lay two months without complaint; and on the 11th

January 1888, in the seventy-ninth year of his life, and the

thirty-fourth of his labours in the Marquesas, passed away.

Those who have a taste for hearing missions, Protestant or Catholic,

decried, must seek their pleasure elsewhere than in my pages. Whether

Catholic or Protestant, with all their gross blots, with all their

deficiency of candour, of humour, and of common sense, the missionaries

are the best and the most useful whites in the Pacific. This is a

subject which will follow us throughout; but there is one part of it that

may conveniently be treated here. The married and the celibate

missionary, each has his particular advantage and defect. The married

missionary, taking him at the best, may offer to the native what he is

much in want of—a higher picture of domestic life; but the woman at his

elbow tends to keep him in touch with Europe and out of touch with

Polynesia, and to perpetuate, and even to ingrain, parochial decencies

far best forgotten. The mind of the female missionary tends, for

instance, to be continually busied about dress. She can be taught with

extreme difficulty to think any costume decent but that to which she grew

accustomed on Clapham Common; and to gratify this prejudice, the native

is put to useless expense, his mind is tainted with the morbidities of

Europe, and his health is set in danger. The celibate missionary, on the

other hand, and whether at best or worst, falls readily into native ways

of life; to which he adds too commonly what is either a mark of celibate

man at large, or an inheritance from mediæval saints—I mean slovenly

habits and an unclean person. There are, of course, degrees in this; and

the sister (of course, and all honour to her) is as fresh as a lady at a

ball. For the diet there is nothing to be said—it must amaze and shock

the Polynesian—but for the adoption of native habits there is much.

‘_Chaque pays a ses coutumes_,’ said Stanislao; these it is the

missionary’s delicate task to modify; and the more he can do so from

within, and from a native standpoint, the better he will do his work; and

here I think the Catholics have sometimes the advantage; in the Vicariate

of Dordillon, I am sure they had it. I have heard the bishop blamed for

his indulgence to the natives, and above all because he did not rage with

sufficient energy against cannibalism. It was a part of his policy to

live among the natives like an elder brother; to follow where he could;

to lead where it was necessary; never to drive; and to encourage the

growth of new habits, instead of violently rooting up the old. And it

might be better, in the long-run, if this policy were always followed.

It might be supposed that native missionaries would prove more indulgent,

but the reverse is found to be the case. The new broom sweeps clean; and

the white missionary of to-day is often embarrassed by the bigotry of his

native coadjutor. What else should we expect? On some islands, sorcery,

polygamy, human sacrifice, and tobacco-smoking have been prohibited, the

dress of the native has been modified, and himself warned in strong terms

against rival sects of Christianity; all by the same man, at the same

period of time, and with the like authority. By what criterion is the

convert to distinguish the essential from the unessential? He swallows

the nostrum whole; there has been no play of mind, no instruction, and,

except for some brute utility in the prohibitions, no advance. To call

things by their proper names, this is teaching superstition. It is

unfortunate to use the word; so few people have read history, and so many

have dipped into little atheistic manuals, that the majority will rush to

a conclusion, and suppose the labour lost. And far from that: These

semi-spontaneous superstitions, varying with the sect of the original

evangelist and the customs of the island, are found in practice to be

highly fructifying; and in particular those who have learned and who go

forth again to teach them offer an example to the world. The best

specimen of the Christian hero that I ever met was one of these native

missionaries. He had saved two lives at the risk of his own; like

Nathan, he had bearded a tyrant in his hour of blood; when a whole white

population fled, he alone stood to his duty; and his behaviour under

domestic sorrow with which the public has no concern filled the beholder

with sympathy and admiration. A poor little smiling laborious man he

looked; and you would have thought he had nothing in him but that of

which indeed he had too much—facile good-nature. {86}

It chances that the only rivals of Monseigneur and his mission in the

Marquesas were certain of these brown-skinned evangelists, natives from

Hawaii. I know not what they thought of Father Dordillon: they are the

only class I did not question; but I suspect the prelate to have regarded

them askance, for he was eminently human. During my stay at Tai-o-hae,

the time of the yearly holiday came round at the girls’ school; and a

whole fleet of whale-boats came from Ua-pu to take the daughters of that

island home. On board of these was Kauwealoha, one of the pastors, a

fine, rugged old gentleman, of that leonine type so common in Hawaii. He

paid me a visit in the _Casco_, and there entertained me with a tale of

one of his colleagues, Kekela, a missionary in the great cannibal isle of

Hiva-oa. It appears that shortly after a kidnapping visit from a

Peruvian slaver, the boats of an American whaler put into a bay upon that

island, were attacked, and made their escape with difficulty, leaving

their mate, a Mr. Whalon, in the hands of the natives. The captive, with

his arms bound behind his back, was cast into a house; and the chief

announced the capture to Kekela. And here I begin to follow the version

of Kauwealoha; it is a good specimen of Kanaka English; and the reader is

to conceive it delivered with violent emphasis and speaking pantomime.

‘“I got ’Melican mate,” the chief he say. “What you go do ’Melican

mate?” Kekela he say. “I go make fire, I go kill, I go eat him,” he say;

“you come to-mollow eat piece.” “I no _want_ eat ’Melican mate!” Kekela

he say; “why you want?” “This bad shippee, this slave shippee,” the

chief he say. “One time a shippee he come from Pelu, he take away plenty

Kanaka, he take away my son. ’Melican mate he bad man. I go eat him;

you eat piece.” “I no _want_ eat ’Melican mate!” Kekela he say; and he

_cly_—all night he cly! To-mollow Kekela he get up, he put on blackee

coat, he go see chief; he see Missa Whela, him hand tie’ like this.

(_Pantomime_.) Kekela he cly. He say chief:—“Chief, you like things of

mine? you like whale-boat?” “Yes,” he say. “You like file-a’m?”

(fire-arms). “Yes,” he say. “You like blackee coat?” “Yes,” he say.

Kekela he take Missa Whela by he shoul’a’ (shoulder), he take him light

out house; he give chief he whale-boat, he file-a’m, he blackee coat. He

take Missa Whela he house, make him sit down with he wife and chil’en.

Missa Whela all-the-same pelison (prison); he wife, he chil’en in

Amelica; he cly—O, he cly. Kekela he solly. One day Kekela he see ship.

(_Pantomime_.) He say Missa Whela, “Ma’ Whala?” Missa Whela he say,

“Yes.” Kanaka they begin go down beach. Kekela he get eleven Kanaka,

get oa’ (oars), get evely thing. He say Missa Whela, “Now you go quick.”

They jump in whale-boat. “Now you low!” Kekela he say: “you low quick,

quick!” (_Violent pantomime_, _and a change indicating that the narrator

has left the boat and returned to the beach_.) All the Kanaka they say,

“How! ’Melican mate he go away?”—jump in boat; low afta. (_Violent

pantomime_, _and change again to boat_.) Kekela he say, “Low quick!”’

Here I think Kauwealoha’s pantomime had confused me; I have no more of

his _ipsissima verba_; and can but add, in my own less spirited manner,

that the ship was reached, Mr. Whalon taken aboard, and Kekela returned

to his charge among the cannibals. But how unjust it is to repeat the

stumblings of a foreigner in a language only partly acquired! A

thoughtless reader might conceive Kauwealoha and his colleague to be a

species of amicable baboon; but I have here the anti-dote. In return for

his act of gallant charity, Kekela was presented by the American

Government with a sum of money, and by President Lincoln personally with

a gold watch. From his letter of thanks, written in his own tongue, I

give the following extract. I do not envy the man who can read it

without emotion.

‘When I saw one of your countrymen, a citizen of your great nation,

ill-treated, and about to be baked and eaten, as a pig is eaten, I

ran to save him, full of pity and grief at the evil deed of these

benighted people. I gave my boat for the stranger’s life. This boat

came from James Hunnewell, a gift of friendship. It became the

ransom of this countryman of yours, that he might not be eaten by the

savages who knew not Jehovah. This was Mr. Whalon, and the date,

Jan. 14, 1864.

‘As to this friendly deed of mine in saving Mr. Whalon, its seed came

from your great land, and was brought by certain of your countrymen,

who had received the love of God. It was planted in Hawaii, and I

brought it to plant in this land and in these dark regions, that they

might receive the root of all that is good and true, which is _love_.

‘1. Love to Jehovah.

‘2. Love to self.

‘3. Love to our neighbour.

‘If a man have a sufficiency of these three, he is good and holy,

like his God, Jehovah, in his triune character (Father, Son, and Holy

Ghost), one-three, three-one. If he have two and wants one, it is

not well; and if he have one and wants two, indeed, is not well; but

if he cherishes all three, then is he holy, indeed, after the manner

of the Bible.

‘This is a great thing for your great nation to boast of, before all

the nations of the earth. From your great land a most precious seed

was brought to the land of darkness. It was planted here, not by

means of guns and men-of-war and threatening. It was planted by

means of the ignorant, the neglected, the despised. Such was the

introduction of the word of the Almighty God into this group of

Nuuhiwa. Great is my debt to Americans, who have taught me all

things pertaining to this life and to that which is to come.

‘How shall I repay your great kindness to me? Thus David asked of

Jehovah, and thus I ask of you, the President of the United States.

This is my only payment—that which I have received of the Lord,

love—(aloha).’

In the South Seas Being an Account of Experiences and Observations in the Marquesas, Paumotus and Gilbert Islands in the Course of Two Cruises on the Yacht "Casco" (1888) and the Schooner "Equator" (1889) · 第 10 / 17 章