FROM THE ANDES TO THE PACIFIC.
At daylight we breakfasted on dried beef and _maté_ tea, and soon
started on our journey, which was now rapidly drawing to a close. The
sun was high in the heavens, although we could not for a long time see
his face, for the mountains shut us in completely. We continued down
the valley, passing near some fine springs of water, which, from the
peculiar manner in which they burst forth from the ground, are called
“_Los ojos de Agua_,” or Eyes of Water.
The first signs of civilization that we reached on the Chili territory
was at a place called “_El Guarde Viejo_,” the old custom-house of the
Chilian government.
This was occupied by a farmer, a new government building having been
erected farther down, at the mouth of the valley. Beyond the _Guarde_,
at intervals, little huts were seen, the inhabitants of which were
garrulous and hospitable.
As we emerged from the valley, and encountered troops of mules and
parties of country people, I observed the peculiar characteristics
which distinguish the Chilians from the people of the country behind
us. The muleteers on the eastern side of the Andes were grave in
deportment, and slow in speech and movement.
The Chilians were more energetic and intelligent,--perhaps from more
extended intercourse with foreigners. Yet they have the discredit of
being less honest than their brethren of the pampa provinces. The
men of Chili wore a short poncho, mainly covering the wearer’s hips.
The Argentinos’ poncho is of the longest kind--longer than those of
the people of any other South American republic. The Chilian’s lasso
_hangs_ in coils from the saddle behind the rider; the gaucho’s is
carefully coiled up, and rests on the horse’s croup.
The farms now became more frequent as we travelled along; the buildings
were neatly roofed with red tiles, and furnished a striking contrast,
to those of Mendoza and San Juan, which were generally of canes and mud.
As night came on, we reached an irrigating canal, which conveyed water
to the town of San Rosa; thrifty little farms were fed by its waters
all along the road, and neatness and good order and management were
everywhere discernible. The little houses were shaded by groves of fig
and orange trees, and the reader can imagine our thoughts and happiness
to be travelling through a country bright with blossoming fruit trees,
when but a few hours before we had slept near snow-drifts.
Groups of young people were often seen seated beneath the trees, or
under the verandas, singing, or playing on the guitar. Before one of
the farm-houses we drew up, and, after being welcomed by one of these
happy groups, we led our animals from the road, and prepared to remain
for the night. An abundant supper was furnished us, and I do not
remember a pleasanter night’s rest that I ever had, than that.
The next morning I went out to the pasture to bid my old horse _adios_.
I found him cropping the rich _alfalfa_ on the irrigated field; and as
I approached him he seemed rather disinclined to any familiarity, for
he had associated me with all the hardships of the journey; and now to
leave a land of plenty with me was evidently not to his taste. I lost
no time in assuring him that my intentions were pacific, and when I
left him he gave a pleasant whisk of his tail and shake of the ears,
apparently thanking me for leaving him so literally “in clover.”
My pedestrian journey was ended. I would have liked to continue on foot
to the sea, which I could easily have reached in a couple of days; but
my kind friend Don Fernando would not permit me to leave his troop. I
must keep him company.
“You must come with me, my son,” he said. “I wish to introduce you to
some very nice people. I am a Chilian by birth, and I desire that you
shall form a good opinion of my countrymen.”
A mule, richly caparisoned, was furnished me by the don, and, mounting
our animals, we soon rode into the town of Santa Rosa. Drawing up his
mule before the entrance of a large mansion, before which paced a
soldier with musket in hand, Don Fernando inquired if Don José Ynfante,
the governor of the department of Santa Rosa, was at home.
The soldier replied that that gentleman was at Santiago on official
business, but that his son Don Manuel was at home. While a servant went
to announce our arrival, I had time to note that the national flag of
Chili floated above the stately mansion, while a peep within the yard
revealed beds of beautiful flowers and well-kept walks.
In a moment Don Manuel appeared, and, cordially embracing his uncle,
exclaimed, “Welcome to Chili, and to Santa Rosa!” The don introduced
me to the other gentleman, who greeted me warmly, uttering at the
same time many expressions of good feeling for me and my countrymen.
We then entered the house, and passed a most pleasant day in social
intercourse, to which the agreeable and cultivated manners of the young
don added no little charm. Don Manuel, as if to bring our recent hard
fare more strongly to our imaginations, feasted us upon strawberries
and sherbet; and the reader can form some faint idea how acceptable
they were to us. The ice for the sherbet had been brought down from the
Cordillera on the backs of mules.
On the following day we mounted our animals, and, bidding _adios_
to Don Manuel, resumed our journey for the coast. Leaving Santa
Rosa, we passed over an interesting country, and in the afternoon
crossed a fine bridge of foreign construction, and entered the town
of San Felipé,--which has a population of about twelve thousand
inhabitants,--where we passed the night.
The River Aconcagua irrigates the gardens and farms in this district,
and the soil is very fertile, yielding abundant crops of grain,
potatoes, melons, maize, beans, walnuts, figs, peaches, tobacco, and
grapes. The town is about eighty miles from Valparaiso.
Resuming our route on the next morning, and travelling all day, we
entered, at dusk, the town of Quillota, which contains about ten
thousand souls, and is about thirty-five miles from Valparaiso.
Here we found some large and well-cultivated farms, and the whole
country was quite interesting.
On the following morning Don Fernando started in advance of our party,
to prepare for our arrival at Valparaiso, this being the last day of
the journey.
I remained with the people of the troop, and kept them company during
the whole day. No incident occurred worthy of record here; and before
the twilight had begun to fall upon the heavens, we were descending
the high _cuestas_ that overlook Valparaiso, which city lay stretched
out below us on the shore of the great Pacific, its white plastered
dwellings glistening like silver in the rays of the declining sun.
Winding down the stony path, we entered the city before dark, and were
soon ensconced in comfortable quarters.
On the following day I presented my letters of introduction to the
United States consul, George Merwin, Esq., who, after giving me a kind
reception, and warm congratulations on the success of my long journey,
interested himself so much in procuring me a berth in an American
vessel, that before twenty-four hours had passed I was comfortably
settled on board the fine ship Magellan, Captain Charles King, and I
once more entered upon the routine of life before the mast. A few weeks
later, and we were scudding down the western coast of Patagonia, and
“going around the Horn” on our journey home.
* * * * *
Reader, my story is told. If you have been enabled in these pages to
glean a little instruction or amusement for your leisure hours, I
shall feel well rewarded; and if, when in imagination you followed me
in my weary journey, you, perhaps, felt some little sympathy for the
hardships I sometimes experienced, I shall never regret my pedestrian
trip across the “PAMPAS AND THE ANDES.”
Transcriber’s Notes
Errors and omissions in punctuation have been fixed.
Page 47: “by order of his goverment” changed to “by order of his
government”
Page 124: “the _Santigueños_” changed to “the _Santiagueños_”
Page 234: “a leather rope, the _biador_,” changed to “a leather rope,
the _fiador_,”