There was but little talking in the middle of the day, in the
train, for the heat was excessive. All the men had taken off their
coats, and sat in their shirt sleeves. But they were, nevertheless,
bathed in perspiration.
Late at night, the train arrived at Allahabad. Here there was a
stop, till morning. The men alighted from the train; and lay down
on their folded blankets, with their knapsacks for pillows, on the
platform or in the waiting rooms. A plentiful supply of water had
been prepared for their use, at the station; and outside were
several water carriers; and many of the men stripped off their
shirts, and had water poured over their heads and bodies. Will Gale
was among these and, greatly refreshed, he enjoyed some fruit and
cakes which he purchased from native vendors; and then, lying down
on a bench in the station, was soon asleep.
Four days' traveling brought them to the end of the railway. They
were ferried across the Attock, and then their real work began.
Although it was now late in September, the heat was still intense.
Tents were struck an hour before daybreak and, by eleven o'clock
each day, the column was at its halting place. It was, however,
hours before the tents and baggage arrived.
Many of the draft cattle were very poor, forage was scarce, and the
arrangements far from good. The consequence was that great numbers
of the oxen broke down and died, and many of the troops were often
obliged to sleep in the air, owing to the non-arrival of their
tents. The defects of the transport were aggravated, as the time
went on; and the Norfolk Rangers fared much better than some of the
troops which followed them.
The regiment was destined to operate in the Khuram valley, under
the command of General Roberts. The advanced column of this
division consisted of the 7th company of Bengal Sappers, the 23rd
Bengal Pioneers; a battery of horse artillery, one of Royal
Artillery, and two mountain batteries; a squadron of the 10th
Hussars, and the 12th Bengal Cavalry. The first brigade of infantry
comprised the 2nd battalion of the 8th Foot, the 29th Bengal Native
Infantry, and the 5th Punjaub Infantry. The second brigade
consisted of the 72nd Highlanders, the 21st Native Infantry, the
2nd Punjaub Infantry, and the 5th Ghoorkas. The place of assembly
was Kohat. The Norfolk Rangers were to act as a reserve.
It was on the 2nd of October that the Rangers arrived at Kohat,
heartily glad that their march across the sandy plains of the
Punjaub was at an end. The other regiments comprising the force
poured in rapidly and, on the 9th, the general arrived and assumed
the command. The next day the Punjaub regiments were sent forward
to Thull. It was not until the middle of November that the European
regiments followed them; and the six weeks were, by the Rangers,
for the most part employed in drill for, after their voyage and
journey up the country, their commanding officer considered it
necessary to work them hard, to get them to the highest state of
discipline.
William Gale was worked exceptionally hard; as he had, in that
short time, to learn the manual and platoon exercises, and to pick
up enough of drill to enable him to take his place in the ranks.
Fortunately he carried himself well, and required far less drilling
than the majority of the recruits. By the time that the regiment
moved forward, he was able to take his place in his company; and
had mastered all the movements which were likely to be necessary,
in the campaign.
The road between Kohat and Thull runs in a valley between
mountains, those on the right being inhabited by the Waziries, a
fierce and independent tribe. The regiment which had first marched
had exercised every precaution against an attack. The convoys of
stores and provisions sent forward had always been accompanied by
strong escorts, and orders were issued that officers going forward
on duty should not travel without protection. The Waziries,
however--contrary to expectation--remained quiet; probably waiting
to see the turn which matters took for, had we suffered a repulse,
they would assuredly have taken part, at once, against us; and
would have aided in massacring fugitives, and robbing baggage
wagons.
The march to Thull occupied five days, which were very pleasant
ones to William Gale. His heavy work at drill was now over. He was
no longer considered a recruit, but ranked as a soldier. The
marches were not long and, for many hours in the afternoon, the
high hills threw the valley in shade; and the soldiers, after
pitching their tents, were able to stroll about, or to lie under
the trees in which the valley abounded. The regiment reached Thull
on the 18th of November and, on the morning of the 21st, the column
advanced.
The river, whose bed was 500 yards wide, was fortunately now low,
being reduced to a stream of 40 yards wide by 3 deep. A trestle
bridge had been thrown across it, for the use of the infantry. The
river was distant a mile and a half from the town. No opposition
was expected but, as a small Afghan garrison was stationed in a
fort at Kapizang, a short distance beyond the river, an attempt was
to be made to capture it.
The 29th Punjaub Infantry first crossed the river, at the bridge.
The 10th Hussars forded the river and extended, in skirmishing
order, to cut off the retreat of the garrison. When they reached
the fort, however--which was a square enclosure, with round towers
at the corners--it was found that the garrison, who had doubtless
received warning from spies in Thull, had abandoned the place in
the night.
The cavalry were now sent forward to reconnoiter, the infantry
following; and the advanced force halted at Ahmed-I-shama for the
night. Not a single habitation was passed, during the nine miles
march. The road was generally a mere track, 6 feet wide; passing
through tangled brakes of dwarf palms, intersected by stony
gullies, except when it ran along the steep bank of the river.
The following day the rest of the first brigade marched up to
Ahmed-I-shama; while the advanced force, under Colonel Gordon,
moved on to Hazir-pir. The Rangers were with the first brigade, but
not with the advanced party. This was composed wholly of native
troops, consisting of the Pioneer regiments and the Sappers and
Miners. These had hard work, for the road--which was fifteen miles
in length--was scarcely passable for wheeled carriages, and the
guns could not be taken along until the boulders and blocks of
stone, which strewed the way, were removed or blasted into pieces.
On the 23rd the Rangers, with the Horse Artillery battery and two
native regiments, marched towards Hazir-pir; but the difficulties
of the road were so great that they had to camp, for the night,
four miles short of that place. General Roberts and the
headquarters went forward the same day.
As the general passed along the road, the headmen of all the
villages near came and paid their respects; and the villagers lined
the roads as the troops passed, offering fowls, eggs, milk, and
dried fruit for sale. As William Gale had brought a supply of money
with him, he was able to indulge in all those luxuries and, indeed,
as the men had had few opportunities of spending money at Thull,
all were well supplied with cash.
The halt at Hazir-pir was, then, a very pleasant one. Supplies of
grass, fuel, and provisions were brought in, in considerable
quantities, there; but much difficulty arose in settling the terms
of purchase, as coin was almost unknown in the valley and,
therefore, there was no established price--one native being ready
to sell, for a few coppers, articles for which another demanded as
many pieces of silver. On the hills around a considerable number of
sheep were seen grazing; but the natives did not care about selling
these which, indeed, belonged for the most part, not to the
Turis--the tribe which inhabit the valley--but to nomad Ghilzais
who, like the Swiss shepherds, move about with their charges among
the mountains, wherever fodder is to be obtained.
Khuram valley, itself, is bare and monotonous. With the exception
of fruit trees planted round the villages, scarce a tree is to be
found; but each village is marked by a huge chunar--or oriental
plane--beneath which the villagers rest during the noonday heat.
But if the valley itself was bare and desolate, the scenery around
was lovely. The great range of mountains known as the Safaid-Koh
bound the valley on the east and north. This range averages 14,000
feet high, from which spurs run out at right angles, enclosing
narrower valleys, with broiling torrents rushing through boulders.
The slopes of these valleys are covered with luxuriant vegetation,
till the limit of trees is reached at a height of about 11,000
feet; above which, in winter, the snow lies thick while, in summer,
it furnishes the finest pasture to the Ghilzai flocks and herds.
The valley lands and the lower slopes of the hills are laid out in
terraces, and irrigated rice fields extend near the rivers. Valley
and hill are alike covered with stones and boulders, Afghanistan
being probably the most stony country in the world.
On the 24th the headquarters, with the cavalry and two regiments,
moved forward ten miles and encamped at the south end of the
Darwazi Pass--the road leading to open, broad valleys, covered with
dwarf palms, and wholly uncultivated. On the 25th the advanced
force crossed the pass, which was a gentle slope and offered no
great difficulty and, at night, encamped at the Khuram fort, which
had been evacuated by the enemy. The buildings--which would have
been useful for the troops--had, however, been wrecked by the
Turis; who have a deadly hate for the Afghans--their masters--and
who were also animated in their work of destruction by a desire to
obtain wood, which is exceedingly scarce there.
At Khuram there are two forts, the one 120 yards and the other 100
yards square. Inside these were quarters for the governor, and huts
for the garrison and officers; and in the smaller forts were
stables for the cavalry forces. This place was made the
headquarters of the forces in the Khuram valley.
The general now rode on, with two squadrons of the 12th Bengal
Cavalry, to reconnoiter in the direction of the Peiwar-Khotal;
towards which the enemy were supposed to be retreating, and where
they were expected to make a stand. As they approached the village
of Peiwar, two villages were seen in flames; and news was brought
in that three Afghan regiments, with twelve guns, had lately passed
through. The natives reported that they were encumbered by their
guns, and that forced labor was procured for the purpose of
removing them. Later on, a rumor came that the twelve guns were
stuck in the ravine at the foot of the Khotal, or pass.
With but a small force of cavalry at his command, the general could
do nothing; and so returned to Khuram, and determined to hurry up
the troops faster than he had intended, so as to capture the guns
reported--as was afterwards proved, falsely--to have been left
behind by the Afghans. The sick and all superfluous baggage were
left behind at Khuram and, on the 28th, the troops moved at
daybreak; the two brigades marching in parallel columns.
The cold was now severe at night, although it was hot in the
daytime. It had been intended to halt at Halid-Kitta, four miles
from the Khotal; but the intelligence arriving--that the Ameer's
troops had abandoned their guns, and were in disorderly
retreat--decided the general to push forward at once to the
Peiwar-Khotal--seven miles further--instead of waiting, and giving
the enemy time to strengthen their position. A mile from the foot
of the actual ascent of the Khotal lies the village of Turrai, two
miles and a half beyond Peiwar. Turrai is situated in a valley, the
ground at whose entrance is very much broken up by the shoulders
and spurs of the hill.
The left column--the 5th and 29th Punjaub in advance, with the 2nd
battalion of the 8th and the 23rd Pioneers, the Rangers, and two
guns of the Number 1 mountain battery in support--were sent to the
left, with instructions to turn a ridge forming the south boundary
of the valley, and to seize the village of Turrai. They were also
to follow up, closely, any body of retreating Afghan troops that
they might come across. The light brigade were to march up the
regular road to the Peiwar, thus supporting the attack of the left
brigade.
The left brigade followed out its orders, except that the regiment
in support did not go round the southern side of the spur, but kept
to the north. No enemy was seen on the south side of the spur so,
when a track leading across to Turrai was reached, the troops moved
down towards the village; the regiments in support advancing at the
foot of the open, on the north side. The mountain path that the
advanced troops were now filing down did not lead directly to the
village, but fell into the valley ahead of it, at a point where it
widens out into what was known as the "punch bowl valley," at the
foot of the Peiwar-Khotal.
As soon as the head of the column reached this spot, they came in
sight of the Afghans; who showed themselves in great numbers on the
crest of the mountain, far above their heads. As the troops had no
orders to attack so formidable a position, they fell back towards
Turrai, which was about a quarter of a mile to the rear. At the
sight of this movement, the Afghans swarmed down a spur of the
hill, and commenced an attack on the regiments that were moving
towards the village. The 29th Punjaubees climbed the hill and a
sharp skirmish ensued, the two mounted guns coming into action.
While this was going on, the main body of the troops arrived at
Turrai. The advanced troops were recalled, and the 5th Ghoorkas
were advanced to cover the movement. As it was now seen that the
story of the abandonment of the guns was false, orders were given
to pile arms in the village, and to encamp there.
This step was an imprudent one, as the Afghans speedily showed.
While our men were sitting or lying upon the ground, waiting for
the baggage to arrive, the Afghans brought up a mountain gun from
the main ridge--about three-quarters of a mile distant--to the
point of the spur overlooking the village of Turrai, and opened
fire at 1700 yards range.
The astonishment of the troops, when the first shell fell among
them, was great. Every one jumped to his feet, and seized his
rifle; and the guns of the Royal Horse Artillery were brought at
once into action. It was four o'clock in the afternoon when the
Afghans opened fire. Had they waited for a few hours, brought up
another gun or two, and made a night attack immediately after
opening fire, it is morally certain that the imprudence of camping
in such a position would have been punished by a disaster, which
might have vied with that of Isandula. Huddled together in a small
village surrounded by scrub; and impeded, as the troops would have
been, by the baggage animals and native followers, rushing in
terror in all directions, our men would have been taken at an
immense disadvantage.
Fortunate was it that the enemy opened fire before the darkness set
in. The troops were at once ordered to fall back a mile and a half,
and to pitch on fresh ground. There was much confusion in the
retreat, as the road in the rear was crowded with the baggage
animals. The spot chosen for the camp was a rough one; for the
ground was covered with scrub, and a scattered growth of hill oak
and thorny bushes, and was broken by the remains of some ancient
terraces but, as the jungle and broken ground extended for three
and a half miles, there was nothing for it but to take up the best
position possible, under the circumstances. The troops bivouacked
on the ridge of a ravine, with steep banks; which formed a line of
defense in front of the camp, while the view in every other
direction was obscured by trees.
The regiments passed a wretched night on the rough ground. Most of
them were unable to find their baggage, which was wandering in the
scrub in the dark; and the greater part of the troops lay down on
the bare ground, and went supperless to sleep, after their
fatiguing march of twenty-one miles.
In the morning, both men and cattle were greatly exhausted by their
long marches and almost sleepless nights; and General Roberts
determined to wait, for a day or two, to reconnoiter the formidable
position of the enemy before undertaking its attack. The camp was
shifted to a more secure site, the brushwood and trees were cleared
away, the tents pitched, and the troops were again comfortable.
A reconnaissance was made by Colonel Perkins--commanding the Royal
Engineers--with two companies of the Pioneers. He ascertained that
a deep ravine lay between the ridge on which they were encamped and
the Khotal itself, and that it was impossible to direct an attack
on that side.
Major Collett also, with two companies of the 23rd, proceeded to
reconnoiter the route known as the Spingawi--or Cow--Pass. This,
instead of going straight up the hill in front, wound round its
foot to the right of the valley. Ascending the mountain at a point
some three or four miles to the east of the Peiwar-Khotal, the
reconnaissance reached the summit of a ridge about five miles
distant from the camp, and overlooking the Spingawi-Khotal. It was
ascertained that the road up the pass seemed easy and practicable,
for all arms; that the top of the pass appeared to be on the same
ridge as the Peiwar-Khotal; and that a force, working from it
towards the Peiwar, would pass over a series of dominating
positions. It did not appear to Major Collett that the enemy held
the Peiwar-Khotal in force; although there was a gun on a
commanding knoll on the south, and there seemed to be one at the
top of the pass. The road from the village of Peiwar to the top of
the Spingawi Pass seemed perfectly easy, for troops of all arms.
The next two days were spent in clearing the camp and, so far as
possible, improving its military position; but it was still
surrounded by thick oak jungle, which would have afforded cover for
an enemy making a sudden attack.
A further reconnaissance was made of the Spingawi Pass and, as the
examination confirmed Major Collett's report, it was determined to
attack by it. Orders were issued, on the 1st of December, for a
march that night. The regiments which were to form the main attack,
by the Spingawi plateau route, were the 29th Punjaub Infantry and
the 5th Ghoorkas--commanded by Colonel Gordon--in advance; these
were to be followed by the mountain battery, a wing of the 72nd
Highlanders, a company of the Rangers, the 2nd Punjaubees, and the
23rd Pioneers, under Brigadier General Thelwall. Four guns, on
elephants, were to proceed with the column. The 5th Punjaub
Infantry, the 8th Regiment, two guns Royal Horse Artillery, three
guns Royal Artillery, and the 5th Bengal Cavalry--the whole under
the command of Brigadier General Cobbe--were to make an attack on
the Peiwar-Khotal direct.
The rest of the force was to remain to guard the camp and--in order
to convince the enemy that a front attack upon the Peiwar-Khotal
was intended--a party of pioneers, with an engineer officer and a
covering party of the 8th Regiment, were to construct a battery
near the village of Turrai. Frequent reconnoitering parties had
also been sent out in this direction and, so well was the secret of
the general's intention to attack by the Spingawi Khotal kept, that
everyone in camp who had not been let into the secret was confident
that the Peiwar-Khotal would be stormed, on the morrow.
The enemy--although those in camp were ignorant of the fact--were
reinforced, on the 1st, by four regiments of infantry, with a
mountain battery and, on their side, were meditating an attack upon
the British camp. The regiments which had freshly arrived were,
however, fatigued by their long march; and the assault on our camp
was postponed until the next day, and the chance of its coming off
was, therefore, lost for ever.
To William Gale's great satisfaction, a company of the
Rangers--that to which he had been posted--was the one selected by
the colonel to accompany the column marching up the pass. He did
not, indeed, know that this was the route by which they were to
advance; but he was pleased at not being left behind, with the
regiment, in charge of the camp.
"Well, young 'un," a corporal said to him, that evening, "we are
going to be under fire, at last; and a nice climb we shall have of
it. It puts one out of breath, to look at that steep road running
up the hill and, when it comes to fighting one's way up it, with
cannon and Afghans on the top, we shall find it hard work."
"I expect," William answered, "that we sha'n't go up it at any
extraordinary pace. If we skirmish up--as I expect we shall--from
rock to rock, we shall have plenty of time to get our wind, at each
halt. We are not to take our knapsacks; so we shall fight light,
and we have not much extra weight to carry. What with the heat, and
what with the long marches, I should think I must have lost a stone
in weight, since we landed in Calcutta."
"I don't think you have lost weight at all," the corporal said; "it
seems to me that you have grown and widened out, in the two months
and, only yesterday, when I was sizing the company, I had to move
you two men higher; for a young 'un, you stand the fatigues well."
"I am all right," Will said, "except that I have got some frightful
blisters on my feet. I was not going to say anything about it,
because I should have been kept in hospital, and left behind at
Khuram; but I have hardly known how to march, the last few days. I
don't think I could possibly have managed it, if I had not adopted
the native dodge of wearing putties--which I have greased well on
the inside, and wear instead of stockings."
Putties, it may be said, are slips of woolen cloth, about two and a
half yards long and three inches wide, with a tape sewn into one
end. They are wound round and round the leg, from the ankle to
below the knee, and secured by the end being tied with the tape.
Nearly every one, officers and men, wore them through the campaign.
For a long march there could be no doubt that these bandages--wound
round the foot instead of stockings--are very preferable, as they
obviate the liability to foot sores. Even with well-made boots all
pedestrians may, at times, suffer from sore feet; but the liability
is immensely increased when--as in the case of the British
soldier--the boots are coarse, roughly sewn, and frequently ill
fitted.