a mountain, only inhabited by pagans, with abundance of fig-trees, which
are considered holy. The soil to the north consists of sand, and in the
southern part of clay. The wells are about five fathoms deep. The gár
(chief) of Bedánga is dependent upon Bagírmi.
6th. Bámmená, a pagan place in a mountainous tract, where water is only
obtained from wells. The huts are of reeds. Not distant.
7th. Óle Mántanjá, a large pagan place. The upper parts of the huts
consist of reeds, the lower parts of clay. Halt at noon near a large
mountain in the wilderness.
8th. Sómo, a place situated partly on the top and partly at the foot of
a mountain possessing springs. The inhabitants are pagans; they breed
horses, cows, and sheep, eat pork, and cultivate much cotton. Tétel
(_Antilope oryx_) abounds here; also an animal called wáktotó,
resembling a cat, but without a tail (the súmmolí?).
9th. Gellá, a place under an independent chief, on a rivulet flowing
south, called Múggerú, abounding with fish, and navigated during the
rains in bukhsa.
10th. Gár-Sará, or Ngár-Sará, a large pagan place, under a powerful
chieftain of the name of Makét, on a stagnant water (sél), which, during
the rains, becomes a running river, and is navigated with bukhsa, or
crossed by means of a rope drawn from either side. On the way you halt
at a group of four wells at the base of a mountain.
11th. Dámbar, a large pagan place, consisting merely of reed huts, under
the chieftain Gár-Dogó, and the native place of my informant.
12th. Bánam, a large place, close to which is a high mountain, called
“tot Shímme.” The country produces millet, sesamum, sorghum, and much
cotton. The field-labour is not done by the women, as is general in
Negroland, but by the men, the women having the upper hand.
13th. Górgor, a place nominally under Bagírmi, on a rivulet in a
mountainous, rocky tract, the rock being partly of red, partly of blue
colour. The mountains are steep. The inhabitants are armed with spear
and sword (the latter very remarkable), rarely with bows.
14th. Leté, in a mountainous tract, short distance.
15th. Bubú, a middle-sized place.
16th. Chélemí, a large place.
17th. Kénga Matáya, a large place, under a powerful chief, on the
western side of a watercourse running from north to south. Near Kénga a
mountain rises as steep as a wall, presenting colours as richly
chequered as those of a carpet, and densely inhabited by birds, whence
it is called “the birds’ rock.” At the foot of this mountain the
inhabitants celebrate, during summer, a great festival in a large hut,
their temple, at the top of which an urn is suspended, which is said to
be raised by supernatural powers on the approach of an enemy, and to
descend again on his retreat. The people slaughter here fowls and sheep,
and bring sorghum and beans, which they sow, the crop being said to
start forth immediately, so that they reap, boil, and eat it the same
day. Then they place a woman, in splendid attire, on a kárru or wooden
mortar, on each side of the hut, who are said to be transformed into
horses, and to beat the kárru, which itself rises up in the shape of a
horse.
These fabulous statements, on whatever imposture they may rest, were
repeated to me by several most credible informants, quite independently
the one of the other. The vessel or urn suspended at the top of the hut
is said to represent their deity. According to the experienced Ramadhán
Degéji, the following places lie at short distances from each other, in
the mountainous tract between Kénga and Belél-Kolé:—Gér (Gére, see lower
down), a large and populous district, rather mountainous; Sára, under
Sultan Mokhé; Bedánga, Bámmená, Bajáwu and Mére (another village
situated on the top of a mount, and on the watercourse running to Andí,
Jená, Kédil, Kótkol, Belél Kolé).
18th. Sár, a large place on and at the base of a high hill, on which
stands the chief’s dwelling, surrounded with a rampart. The sultan
feasts, at ʿAíd el kebír, the chiefs subjected to his dominion, on
receiving their tribute, by slaughtering a great number of cattle.
19th. Doy, a large place under an independent chieftain; not distant.
20th. Dángal, a place on the top of a mountain in a mountainous tract.
21st. Bánal, a large place with a great body of horsemen, situated at
the foot of a steep mountain. This mountain-range is said to extend a
month’s journey, and to contain numerous villages. In its valleys,
watercourses are formed during the rains, and it contains numerous small
lakes, abounding with fish. The inhabitants wear clothes, and possess
numerous herds. It is said that the cold on these mountains is sometimes
very severe, and that snow and hail fall occasionally. The whole country
is under the supremacy of Kénga.
22nd. Íyon, a large place at the foot of a mountain, under Kénga.
23rd. Tamkí (see above) a large place under the chief Bishára Milkéte.
Tamkí, in a straight line from Kénga, is only one day S.W.
24th. Góberá, a place on a mountain, consisting of a rock of red colour,
the inhabitants of which are armed with bows and arrows, and are very
formidable. This tract contains several watercourses.
25th. Jayá, a group of several villages on the top of a mountain.
26th. Miñedogó.
27th. Míddogó, a place, or rather district, mountainous, and comprising
about 40 hamlets lying around an isolated mountain, under the chieftain
Ábú Khódr. The inhabitants, on the inroad of the Wádáy people in 1852,
retired to the mountain, which they held for seven months, till the
Wádáy army retired.
28th. Dróngoló, a village of the Áfanín, as they are called, a section
of, or rather an indigenous tribe subjected to, the Kúka in the valley
of the Bat-há, with stagnant pools.
29th. Kúnjur, a place of the Kúka.
30th. Ám-Kharúba, a district comprising numerous hamlets on the Bat-há,
which is fringed with dúm-palms. A very short distance.
31st. Kórnay, a large place of the Kúka, consisting entirely of reed-
huts. The principal produce is millet.
32nd. Birket Fátima, a large stagnant water on the north bank of the
Bat-há. Informant now turns south.
33rd. A large place of the Másmajé, Arab cattle-breeders at the foot of
a mountain, the summit of which is inhabited by pagans. The district
abounds with large trees.
34th. A considerable village of the Dájó. In the Khalla a large number
of Fullán, as the Fúlbe are there called, graze their herds.
35th. Kórbe (?) a large place, or rather district, of the Másalát, or
Másalít (whom my informant erroneously takes to be Arabs) with numerous
herds, of a very thievish disposition, on a watercourse called Bérekat.
North of the Másalát, according to my informant, there is no watercourse
properly speaking.
36th. A hamlet of the Salamát Arabs, mixed with pagans, and themselves
pagans; on the bahr e’ Tíni, a stagnant water.
37th. A district of the Welád Ráshid, name not known.
38th. A large place of the Bándalá, in a district rich in honey.
39th. Dár Séli, an extensive district quite level and bare of trees.
40th. Sofálawén, a small village inhabited by Arabs, stated by my
informant to be pagans, under ʿAbd e’ Rahmán Jóko.
41st. A large place under the sovereign of Runga, name not known. The
country is traversed by various mountains.
42nd. Dár Shilá, a mountainous country with a river flowing eastwards,
beyond which is Dár Dínga.
(_v._) _From Kúkawa, by way of Logón Bírni and Busó to (the Western)
Bang-Bay, according to Slave-traders._
1st day. Ngórnu.
2nd. Ngála.
3rd. Áfadé.
4th. Kála Kabé.
5th. Hállebú.
6th. Kála Gurú.
7th. Kárnak Lógone, or Logón Bírni.
8th. Kúbu ngólo, a large town surrounded by a rampart.
9th. Búgomán, a large town under Sultan Másseri, on the west bank of the
Shárí.
10th. Mayemba, or Mankhfa, on the east bank of the large river.
11th. Músgu, a tract comprising a number of hamlets, with some isolated
eminences. You always keep along the watercourse.
12th. Baleñére.
13th. Mondó.
14th. Muró.
15th. Gurumbánga.
16th. Gadó.
17th. Kókochó.
18th. Máfelé, constantly along the river.
19th. Láffaná.
20th. Busó, a large place under a powerful chief.
21st. Mirtí, a village on an island in the Shárí.
22nd. Birrí, still on the river.
23rd. Móngolá, under the chieftain Biñígo.
24th. Mútu, a place on the same river, with abundance of boats, ngurútu,
and crocodiles, and surrounded by a dense wood.
25th. Bargná, a considerable village.
26th. Yó, another pagan place.
27th. Bíllay, the last place on the Shárí.
28th. Nígi, a village situated in a tract intersected by small
watercourses, which join the river.
29th. Tógilá, on the Báchikám.
30th. Kérbe, a large place in a woody tract.
31st. Górewó.
32nd. Búkkabé, a place situated on a river.
33rd. Limmírkay, on the large river, one day from Attar.
34th. Békang. The inhabitants of all these places go naked, are only
armed with the hand-bill, and eat dogs’ flesh.
35th. Kórbol, another village on the same river.
36th. Búwa Dasár, so called from the chief Dasár. The people eat beef
and horseflesh, and gird their loins with horsetails. The “délu”-tree is
said to be their deity.
37th. Kóna.
38th. Nyégel.
39th. Nílem, a place on a headland between the Shárí, towards the west,
and a tributary of the latter, the river of Andí, on the east side.
40th. Kunnó.
41st Jénge, a large place at the foot of a mountain which here starts up
from the plain.
42nd. Gasháffar, a village in a mountainous district.
43rd. Téngi, a place in a mountainous tract on the west bank of a river
(the Shárí?).
44th. Fátum, in a woody plain on the river.
45th. Kóm.
46th. Kúmra (Sará-ngár-Kúmra) in a mountainous tract.
47th. Báng-Bay, in a hilly tract, with four chiefs, one of whom is
Jímdil.
48th. Kúdumúr, a place near a mountain.
49th. Géjjemir, a village with a mountain and a river to the south.
50th. Báng-Derír, a mountainous tract with a river, abounding in the
tree called kó, which bears a large fruit.
51st. Day, in a mountainous tract, with a river.
52nd. Gurál, a place situated in a level tract, inhabited by a fierce
race of people of a red colour.
53rd. Cholól, residence of the chief Kíki.
54th. Jogtó, a large place. All short marches.
55th. Mugmó, in a woody plain with small watercourses without a current,
producing millet, and abounding with elephants and beasts of prey,
particularly hyænas.
56th. Gam, a place in a level tract, the inhabitants of which go naked,
are only armed with the hand-bill, and eat dog-flesh.
57th. Somray, in a plain, with small watercourses.
58th. Yálma, in a plain. You here change your course.
59th. Dólemá, in a level tract, subject to Somray, with large trees,
producing only millet. The people breed dogs, cattle, and pigs.
60th. Chíre, a large place.
61st. Gábberí, in a plain, devoid of running water, and having only
wells.
62nd. Kímre.
(_x._) _From Más-eñá, by way of Gáwi to Mʿawó, according to Agíd Músa,_
Who, nine years ago was sent by ʿOthmán Búgomán to Kánem, to pay his
respects to Mohammed, the son of ʿAbd el Jelíl, and to deliver to him a
number of slaves as a present, by way of opening negotiations. Músa,
however, barely escaped being killed by the khalífa ʿAlí, the governor
of Mʿawó and a partisan of Wádáy; and the negotiations were soon broken
off in consequence of the insecurity of the road.
1st day. Ábú-Gher (see above).
2nd. Chekká.
3rd. Dérja.
4th. Méddebá, on the Shárí, a little above Klésem.
5th. Gáwi, a town formerly of importance, but containing at present,
after having been destroyed by the sheikh Mohammed el Kánemí, who,
assisted by Mústafa el Áhmar and Mukní, took it, after a long
resistance, in A.H. 1234—only a small population. Gáwi from Klésem about
20 miles.
6th. A place of the Yamanúk Arabs, or the Dághana, on a sheet of water.
7th. Kídik.
8th. Babáliyá, formerly the capital of an independent territory, with a
peculiar dialect like that of Búgomán; at present nearly deserted, since
its destruction together with Gáwi in 1234 A.H., and possessing but a
very small remnant of population. Bábaliyá is about twelve miles from
the Shárí, and thirty miles, or a long day’s journey, from Gáwi.
9th. Ziyán, a place belonging to Kárká or Kargha.
10th. A hamlet belonging to Kárká, not far from the lake.
11th. }
}
12th. }
} Híllelát (small hamlets) of Kárká.
13th. }
}
14th. }
15th. A village of the Nefása.
16th. A village of the Kánem Arabs. A long night’s march, from ʿaser
(four o’clock, P.M.) till the next morning.
17th. Mʿawó.
_From Babáliyá to Moító, according to Ramadhán Degéji._
1st day. Augúra, a place of the Kúka.
2nd. Dimdim, a wádí whence the inhabitants of Moító fetch natron, and
much frequented by the Shúwa, who like to graze their herds therein.
3rd. Kargha.
4th. Babáliyá.
_From Más-eñá to Méddebá._
1st. Bákadá, }
}
2nd. Kóllekólle, } Separated by short distances. Very easy to
} be performed in two days.
3rd. Márga, }
4th. Jógodé, a large place inhabited by Kanúri, with a khalífa.
5th. Méddebá.
(_y._) _Places on the Shárí, descending the river from Búgomán._
Below Búgomán are situated on the river:—Yaúya; Bála Mása, with a
rampart; Kuljí; Ásu or Aisu, with a rampart in the utmost state of
decay; Ndára; Mai Dalá; Gédiyé, and Mélé.
Below Mélé are situated on the river:—Méddebá; Klésem, a considerable
place, with a peculiar dialect, twenty miles from Mélé; Tibálo; Shégguwa
or Kinjí Búrgu, with the ford of Siña-Fácha, where the river of Logón,
or the lághame Lógone (the Arre of the Músgu), falls into the Shárí;
Gulfé; Mafáng; Sháwi, a place well-known from Denham’s description;
Makari, a very important place, which, it is much to be regretted, we
were prevented from visiting.
For the very important itinerary of an expedition undertaken from Ám-
majúra in Dár Fúr, in a south-westerly direction, through Bánda (called
Dár Bánda) to the borders of a large river running westward, which must
be one of the great objects of discovery to future expeditions, see
Journal of the Royal Geog. Soc., 1853, vol. xxiii. p. 120.
[Footnote 111: Kínji is two days E.S.E. from Moíto, a large place, east
of which is a mountain, the only one in Bagírmi. See further on.]
[Footnote 112: This is a very important circumstance, which explains all
the errors of M. Fresnel in constructing his incomplete itineraries.]
[Footnote 113: This place has been repeatedly mistaken for the capital
of Bagírmi, even by M. Fresnel.]
[Footnote 114: This place Aúni is evidently identical with the
homonymous place mentioned above in the itinerary of the king Edrís
Alawóma.]
[Footnote 115: It is most probable that this is Wogga’s Kimkul.—Journal
of the R. Geogr. Soc., vol. xv. p. 374. “Koome,” p. 375., is Belél
Komé.]
X.
FRAGMENTS OF A METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER.
* * * * *
[Deg. F.: Degrees in scale of Fahrenheit.]