constitutes the whole of this alluvial plain, and which at the present
season was converted into one continuous swamp, fine sandy soil
succeeding to it near the village of Gujári, so that from thence we
pursued our march more cheerfully; and having taken a small luncheon in
the village Débuwa, we did not halt until we reached the village of
Bogheówa, situated about a mile N.E. from Yédi. Here we were well lodged
and hospitably treated, and were busy till late at night drying our wet
clothes.
[Sidenote: Friday, August 20th.]
We had now only one long day’s march to Kúkawa; and, reaching the town
of Ngórnu after six hours’ ride, I had great trouble in dragging on my
horsemen, who being quite exhausted, wanted to make themselves
comfortable with their friends, for the Bórnu men of the present day are
not accustomed to much fatigue. Indeed both my companions were so
utterly prostrated, in mind and body, that, strange to say, they lost
their road close to the capital, although certainly the high corn-fields
gave the country a totally different appearance. The great pond of Kaine
was now larger than I had ever seen it, and flooded the path to a great
extent.
Having sent on a man in advance, in order to announce my arrival to the
vizier and Mr. Overweg, I made a short halt near one of the many pools
of stagnant water; and we were just about to remount when my friend came
galloping up. We were both extremely glad to see each other again,
having been separated from one another longer than on any former
occasion; and they had received in Kúkawa very alarming news about my
reception in Bagírmi. Mr. Overweg had made, meanwhile, a very
interesting trip into the south-western mountainous districts of Bórnu;
he had returned from thence about two months previously; and I was
surprised to find that, notwithstanding the long repose which he had
enjoyed, he looked more weak and exhausted than I had ever seen him. But
he informed me that since his return he had been very ailing, and that
even at present he did not feel quite recovered. He gave me a very
lively and encouraging description of the means which had been placed at
my disposal; and with the most spirited projects for the future we
entered the town. Here I once more found myself in my old quarters, with
luxuries at my command which during the last six months had become
almost strange to me,—such as coffee with sugar, and tea with milk and
sugar.
It was very fortunate that I had not arrived half a day later; for the
caravan as well as the courier had gone, and not less than four days had
passed since the departure of the latter, so that the people declared
that it was not possible to send my letters after him. But the vizier,
upon whom I called early the next morning, and who received me with
great kindness, gave me three horsemen, who, he said, would overtake the
courier; and as I had fortunately answered my letters and despatches in
Bagírmi, I had only to make up my parcel: but the horsemen did not
overtake the courier till he had got forty miles beyond Ngégimi, in the
very heart of the desert. My servants did not arrive until the evening
of the following day; and they were in rather a sorry plight, having had
great difficulty with my camel and luggage.
[Sidenote: Monday, August 23rd.]
We had a very important private audience with the sheikh, when, after
the usual compliments were passed, I endeavoured to give him a clear
description of the present relations of the expedition; for, when he
expressed his wish that I might be appointed by Her Majesty as a consul,
I declared to him that that could not be, but that it was my business to
explore unknown countries, to open intercourse with them, and afterwards
to return to my native country; that it was the most ardent desire of
Her Majesty’s government to enter into the most friendly relations with
Bórnu, but that our scientific mission extended far beyond that country.
And I further explained to him that Government, in their last
despatches, had expressed their wish that if we should ascertain the
impossibility of penetrating in a southerly or easterly direction, we
might turn westward and endeavour to reach Timbúktu.
This statement seemed to gratify him extremely, as he was afraid of
nothing more than that we might go to Wádáy, and enter into friendly
relations with the sultan of that country. It is from this point of view
that I am quite sure that the vizier at least had done nothing to ensure
me a good reception in Bagírmi, if not the contrary. However, the sultan
declared that, as he was greatly pleased at our desire to try our
fortune in a westerly direction, he should not prevent us, even if we
wanted to go to Wádáy, as it was stipulated expressly in the treaty that
Her Britannic Majesty’s subjects might go wherever they
pleased,—although it was not until a few days later that he actually
signed the treaty, after numerous delays and evasions. I, however,
expressed my wish that, before we left the country, circumstances might
allow us to complete the survey and exploration of the Tsád, which was
both our own wish and that of the British government. Our addresses and
our presents having been received with equal affability, we took a
hearty leave, and returned home. On the last day of August the sultan
signed the treaty, expressing moreover the hope that, if merchants
should actually visit the country in quest of other merchandise than
slaves, the slave-trade might be gradually abolished.
I was now enabled to arrange all our money matters, which were in a very
confused and desperate state; for, besides the large debt due to the
merchant Mohammed e’ Sfáksi, we were indebted to the vizier alone for
500 Spanish dollars. Not being able to satisfy all our creditors with
ready money, there having been sent only 1050 dollars in cash, I
arranged with the merchant, giving him 200 dollars in cash, and a bill
for 1500 dollars on Fezzán, while I paid all the smaller debts, as well
as that of the vizier. Indeed we might now have been able to achieve a
great deal, if it had been our destiny to remain together—for in the
beginning almost all our efforts were paralyzed by the smallness of our
means, which did not allow us to undertake anything on a large scale;
but it was our destiny, that, when sufficient supplies had arrived, one
of us should succumb.
I have already observed that, when on my return I met my companion
before the gates of the capital, I was surprised at his exhausted
appearance; and I was sorry to find that my first impression was
confirmed by what I observed afterwards. As he himself was anxious for a
little change of air, and as it was entirely in accordance with our
object of exploring the lake, to observe the state of the komádugu at
this season, while it was not possible at present to enter upon any
great undertaking, we agreed that he should make a small trip to the
lower part of the river; and he left accordingly for Ájiri on the 29th
of August, in company with a small grandee or kókana, to whom the place
belonged, a short distance westward from the district of Dúchi. I
accompanied him about as far as the village of Dáwerghú; and we
separated with a firm hope that the excursion would do him a great deal
of good—and he really enjoyed extremely the rich vegetation of the
komádugu, which at this time of the year, during the rising of the
river, was in its full vigour. He learnt, by inquiry from the natives,
the very interesting fact that the water in the komádugu, which during
the dry season is limited to detached pools of stagnant water, begins to
form a continuous stream of water eastward towards the Tsád on the 21st
or 22nd July, and continues running for about seven months; that is to
say, till about the middle of February. It begins to overflow its banks
in the month of November. But, although my companion took great interest
in the objects around him, he could not have felt very strong, as the
notes which he wrote during this excursion are extremely short and
unsatisfactory, while it would have been of importance if he had been
able to lay down the course of the river with tolerable exactitude.
Moreover, in his feeble condition, he committed the mistake of forcing
his last day’s march in returning to Kúkawa, on the 13th September; and
I was sorry to observe, when we supped together that evening, that his
appetite greatly failed him.
Being fully aware of the unhealthiness of the climate during the month
of September, we agreed by common consent to keep moving about as much
as possible, and to take a ride every day to some distance. It was on
this account that we arranged a visit to Dáwerghú on Sunday the 20th;
but, unfortunately, some business which we had to transact prevented our
setting out at an early hour in the morning, and, my friend’s head being
that day rather affected, I proposed to him putting off our excursion
till another day; but he thought that the fresh air might do him good.
We therefore started in the heat of the day, although the sun was not
very bright, while my companion did not neglect to protect his head as
well as possible from the rays of the sun.
Having refreshed ourselves in the cool shade of a fine hájilíj, Mr.
Overweg thought himself strong enough to go about shooting, and was so
imprudent as to enter deep water in pursuit of some waterfowl, and to
remain in his wet clothes all the day without saying a word; and I only
became aware of this fact late in the evening, after we had returned to
the town, when he dried his wet clothes at the fire.
Although he had been moving about the whole day, he was not able to
enjoy our simple supper; but he did not complain. However, the next
morning he felt so weak that he was unable to rise from his couch; and
instead of taking a sudorific, which I most earnestly advised him to do,
he was so obstinate as not to take any medicine at all, so that his
illness increased with an alarming rapidity, and rather an alarming
symptom appeared on the following day, when his speech became quite
inarticulate and almost unintelligible. He then became aware himself of
the dangerous state he was in. He informed me that in the town he should
never recover, that it was absolutely necessary for him to get a change
of air, and that he entertained the hope that, if I could take him to
Máduwári, he might speedily regain his health in the house of our friend
the kashélla Fúgo ʿAlí.
It was a difficult task to take my sick companion to the desired place,
which is distant from Kúkawa more than eight miles; and though he began
his journey on Thursday morning, he could not reach the desired place
until the morning of Friday. Having made a present to our friend Fúgo
ʿAlí, that he might be induced to take sufficient care of him, and
having left the necessary orders, I returned to the town in order to
finish my despatches; but the same evening one of the servants whom I
had left with Mr. Overweg, came and informed me that he was much worse,
and that they were unable to understand a single word he said. I mounted
immediately, and found my friend in a most distressing condition, lying
outside in the courtyard, as he had obstinately refused to sleep in the
hut. He was bedewed with a cold perspiration, and had thrown off all his
coverings. He did not recognize me, and would not allow me or any one
else to cover him. Being seized with a terrible fit of delirium, and
muttering unintelligible words, in which all the events of his life
seemed to be confused, he jumped up repeatedly in a raging fit of
madness, and rushed against the trees and into the fire, while four men
were scarcely able to hold him.
At length, towards morning, he became more quiet, and remained
tranquilly on his couch; and, not becoming aware that his strength was
broken, and hoping that he might have passed the crisis, I thought I
might return to the town. After asking him if he had any particular
desire, he said that he had something to tell me; but it was impossible
for me to understand him, and I can only fancy, from what happened,
that, being aware that death was at hand, he wanted to recommend his
family to me.
At an early hour on Sunday morning, Mr. Overweg’s chief servant came to
me with the sad news that the state of my friend was very alarming, and
that since I had left him he had not spoken a word, but was lying
motionless. I mounted immediately on horseback; but before I reached the
place, I was met by a brother of Fúgo ʿAlí, who, with tears in his eyes,
told me that our friend was gone. With the dawn of day, while a few
drops of rain were falling, after a short struggle, his soul had
departed.
In the afternoon I laid him in his grave, which was dug in the shade of
a fine hájilíj, and well protected from the beasts of prey. Thus died my
sole friend and companion, in the thirtieth year of his age, and in the
prime of his youth. It was not reserved for him to finish his travels,
and to return home in safety; but he met a most honourable death, as a
martyr to science; and it is a remarkable fact that he found himself a
grave on the very borders of that lake by the navigation of which he has
rendered his name celebrated for ever. It was certainly a presentiment
of his approaching death which actuated him in his ardent desire to be
removed to this place, where he died hard by the boat in which he had
made his voyage. Many of the inhabitants of the place, who had known him
well during his repeated visits to the village, bitterly lamented his
death; and no doubt the “tabíb,” as he was called, will be long
remembered by them.
Dejected, and full of sad reflections on my lonely situation, I returned
into the town in the evening; but our dwelling, which during my stay in
Bagírmi my companion had greatly improved, and embellished by white-
washing it with a kind of gypsum, of which he found a layer in our
courtyard, now appeared to me desolate and melancholy in the extreme.
While, therefore, originally it had been my plan to make another trial
along the eastern shores of the Tsád, any longer stay in this place had
now become so intolerable to me, that I determined to set out as soon as
possible on my journey towards the Niger—to new countries and new
people.
[Footnote 61: I sent this letter, with the sultan’s seal, to the Foreign
Office at the time.]
[Footnote 62: Kashélla is properly a Bórnu title; but it is in general
use in these places along the western frontier.]
[Footnote 63: With regard to this custom, Burkhardt’s information
(_Travels in Nubia_, 2nd ed. Appendix I. p. 434.) is very correct; but
in general his information respecting the countries on the east side of
the Tsád is marred with mistakes, not only with regard to the geography,
but even the ethnology of these quarters, as he always confounds native
and Arab tribes.]
APPENDIX.
APPENDIX I.
ACCOUNT OF THE EASTERN PARTS OF KÁNEM, FROM NATIVE INFORMATION.
In attempting to give a description of those parts of Kánem which I have
not visited myself, I must express my regret that, when in that country,
I had no knowledge of the manuscript history of the expeditions of Edrís
Alawóma into the same region, as, with the assistance of the rich supply
of the important historical as well as geographical data contained in
that work, I should have been enabled to give a far more interesting
description of the country, and even perhaps to identify the sites of
many of its former remarkable places.
The former capital of Kánem, as has been seen, was Njímí, or Njímiye, a
place whose approximate situation will be pointed out hereafter; the
present capital, if we may still employ this title in such a country as
Kánem is at the present time, is Máwó[64], or rather Mʿawó, a place
which already in the time of Edrís Alawóma was of great importance.
This town, which it was our ardent desire to visit, and which we most
probably should have reached if the Welád Slimán had undertaken that
expedition, on which we accompanied them, with the whole of their little
troop, instead of allowing half of it to go to Kúkawa, seems to be
situated about 20 miles S.S.E. from Hénderi Síggesi, and is at present
only thinly inhabited, its population probably not exceeding 3000 or
4000, though the circuit of the town is said to be still of considerable
magnitude. It is surrounded with a wall, and is adorned with a great
many date-trees. It is the residence of a khalífa, whose power is of the
most precarious and uncertain condition, as its existence depends
entirely on the relative supremacy of either Wádáy or Bórnu. The
consequence is, that there are generally two khalífas—one actually in
power, and the other watching to expel him at the first opportunity,
with the assistance of one of the patronising powers—Mohammed Sáleh, the
father of the celebrated king of Wádáy ʿAbd el Kerím Sabún, having
succeeded to the pretensions which the Bulála, the princes of the
provinces of Fittrí and Kúka (then swallowed by the empire of Wádáy),
possessed by conquest over the kingdom of Kánem.
But, to return to Mʿawó, there is a market held in the town every
Wednesday; but, on account of the very insecure state of the country, it
cannot possibly be now of any great importance. The inhabitants seem to
belong to a peculiar race; for the Tedá Gurʿaán call them by the name of
Beránema, the origin and meaning of which I was not able to make out
with certainty, but which may seem to have some connection with the name
Bórnu, although it can scarcely have any relation to the name Beráuni,
given to the Tedá themselves by the Kél-owí and other foreigners.
Between Mʿawó and Hénderi Síggesi there appear to be several favoured
valleys, where the date-tree grows in more or less abundance. The most
famous are the large valley called Kárafu, or Kárfu, a few miles from
Mʿawó, under the authority of Keghámma Gúrde, who succeeded to Keghámma
Síntal; on the west side of Kárfu, at a short distance from it, Yégi;
and not far from it the valley Badánga, stated to be very rich in date-
trees, and Kédalá, belonging to the chief Chéfandé[65]; then the valleys
Hamáji (belonging to Fúgo?), Gáltará, and Mápal.
The valley of Mápal is said to form the limit of the date-tree in that
direction. On the west side of Mʿawó is likewise an inhabited place
called Kajídi, but without date-trees.
The upper part of the valley Gésgi, which is said to stretch from south
to north, is called Télerí-Chemó, and is the dwelling-place of the
Shírí, to whom belong the Fugábú (or, as the name is often pronounced,
Fógubó[66]) Shírí, who are the inveterate enemies of the Woghda, the
inhabitants of Gésgi. In this neighbourhood is also a valley called
Líllowa.
North from Mʿawó, at no great distance from Aláli, towards the east, is
the place Kulákulá, inhabited likewise by Kánembú. How Beráda, a place
stated to be also on the north side of Mʿawó, and to be inhabited by a
tribe called Kemálla, who are under the authority of a keghámma, is
situated in relation to these places, I am unable to say. In various
valleys on the same side of Mʿawó are also stated to be the dwelling-
places of the Médelé, a nomadic tribe who possess a great many herds and
flocks. In this neighbourhood is also the valley called Gúmsa, inhabited
by a Tebu tribe called Gúmsuwa, and who seem to be different from the
Gúmsu mentioned further on.
E.N.E. from Mʿawó are the inhabited places Kámmegrí and Jugó, inhabited
by a peculiar tribe called el Mʿallemín by the Arabs. What their
indigenous name is I did not learn; they are most probably identical
with the tribe called Haddáda, whose original name is Búngu.
The dwelling-places of the Shitáti are very numerous, and at a greater
distance west from Mʿawó: several of them, indeed, we visited, such as
Yégil, Aghó (formerly an important place, of great antiquity), Arnánko,
Burkadrússo, Bóró. Besides these, the following are the most renowned
places of their temporary residence: Bérindé, Línkero, Kínti, Hedérke,
Din, Géringé, Tyíro, Kúlla, Laríska, two different places called Núnku,
Kaú or Kó, Líshegó, Kélemrí, Delé, Tawáder, Géno, Lérgeji, Yíggela,
Maina, Yíggu, Yakúlge, Bágalé[67], Búni, Chánga, Nduró, Lódoré, two
places with the name Kiyála (with one of which we shall soon become
acquainted as Gharni Kiyála), Bólleli, Kúttuwa, My, Kájiró, Áddufó,
Yeró.
I now proceed southwards from Mʿawó towards the south-eastern border of
Lake Tsád, the interior basin of which being tolerably well-established
by Mr. Overweg’s navigation, its outline can be laid down according to
these data with a great deal of approximative accuracy, though it is
certainly much to be regretted that we did not succeed in reaching this
district ourselves, and deciding the principal points by ocular
demonstration.
I. ITINERARY FROM MʿAWÓ TO TÁGHGHEL, DIRECTLY SOUTH.
1st day. Róyendú, a place inhabited by a peculiar tribe of Tedá or Tebu,
called Vgýgim.
2nd. Belángara, a place inhabited by the Díbberi, who speak the Kanúri
language[68], and are said to be the original tribe of the Fugábú.
Arrive before the heat of the day.
3rd. Ghalá, a considerable village of huts inhabited by the Kúbberi, or
Kobber, who speak the Kanúri language.
4th. Jékeré, a place at present inconsiderable, but once of large size,
inhabited by the Kánku, (identical with the Kúnkuná?) a tribe or section
of the Kánembú.
5th. Arrive, before the heat is great, at the well Lefádu, without
inhabitants, make a short halt, and reach Mailo, a place with a lake
full of fish, and inhabited by a peculiar tribe called Haddáda or Búngu,
who are said to speak the Kanúri language, but go almost naked, being
only clothed with a leather wrapper round their loins, and are armed
with bows and arrows and the góliyó. They are very expert bowmen, and,
when attacked, withdraw into the dense forests of their district (to
which seems to apply the general name of Bárí), and know well how to
defend their independence in politics as well as in religion—for they
are pagans. To them belong the famous clan called, at least by the Welád
Slimán, Dwárda Hájra. A celebrated town of the Haddáda is Dímári, the
residence of Malá Díma. In Bárí there is a market held every Thursday,
as it seems, in that part of it which is nearest to Mʿawó. In 1853 the
Welád Slimán made a strict alliance with the Haddáda, and in consequence
defeated, in their woody district, the officer of Wádáy, called Agíd el
Bahr.
For the general outlines of this little-known region, the following
itinerary from Kúsuri to Mʿawó, according to the Kánemma chief Ámsakay,
is of great importance:—
1st day. Sleep in the wilderness.
2nd. Sleep near Káú Abúddala, a rocky eminence near the lake (see
Denham, vol. i. p. 261.). Two routes, connecting this important spot
with Abú-Gher and Mélé, will be given in another place.
3rd. Yámanúk Kaléma, a large, open, straggling village, apparently
named from the warlike chief Ámanúk or Yámanúk, well known from
Denham’s narrative.
4th. Bárí, a large place or district formerly under the authority of
the sheikh of Bórnu, near the shore of the lake.
5th. Dímári, a considerable place belonging to Díma, called by Ámsakay
a vice-governor of Kánem.
6th. Gúmsu, a place situated in a valley rich in date-trees, inhabited
by Kánembú and Shúwa.
7th. Mandó, or Mondó, a large market-place, formerly under the khalífa
of Bórnu.
8th. Mʿawó.
6th. Tághghel, a place situated on the border of the lagoon, and
inhabited by the Kajídi, who cultivate a good deal of corn, and have
large herds of camels. Arrive before the heat of the day. If agreeable,
you can go on from Jékeré without stopping, and reach Tághghel the same
day at sunset.
N.B.—The direction of all the wádiyán, or valleys, which you cross on
this route, is from west to east.
II.—FROM BERÍ TO TÁGHGHEL, GOING ALONG THE BORDER OF THE LAKE.
1st day. Kólogó.
2nd. Késkawa, inhabited by the Kúbberi, with much cultivation of corn,
principally “masr” (_Zea Maïs_), besides beans; much cattle. There was
formerly also a village or district Késkawa on the southern shore of the
lake, one day from Ngála.
3rd. Kóskodó.
4th. Talgín, a considerable open village. At no great distance from this
place is a valley with date-trees. A man on foot can easily reach Talgín
in two days from Berí, sleeping in Késkawa. From Talgín the direct road
leads to Mʿawó in three days:—