eastward; but just before starting, whilst the horses were coming, two of
them got bogged and we had some difficulty in extricating them, however
we made a start; got to the crossing place--got two of the camels and two
of the horses bogged and had considerable difficulty in getting all over
safe, however did so with the exception of getting some of the things
wet, so it was late when we crossed. I at once camped to dry them and got
things put to rights for a start in the morning. Started off to get a
view of the country from a remarkable crown-topped conical hill about six
miles off, and had a most extensive view. I find that we have for the
present passed the worst of the creeks, and that now there is in view
only one of much magnitude and it bears off eastward, passing on the
south-east side of an isolated hill or double hill; they are the only
hills seen from this elevated spot from a bearing of 358 degrees round to
44 degrees southward and westward; from the forementioned of these
bearings and masses of hills jumbled together, and to south and east of
the latter bearing is another mass of hills; at the bearing itself the
hill terminates in small cones immediately east of my position; a little
to the north and a little to the south is one mass of table-topped hills,
some apparently strongly timbered on top, with a perfect wall from ten to
thirty feet perpendicular round summit of all, and some are detached.
Hunter's Island Gap, or rather the bluff on its northern side, bearing 26
degrees from Hunter's Gorge to north and west, is round to 358 degrees in
the far distance, is a mass of table-topped ranges with, apparently,
three gaps in them.
Thursday, April 3.
On bearing of 110 degrees along the creek for one and a quarter miles, on
bearing of 65 1/2 degrees for three and a half miles, on bearing of 1
degree for three and a half miles over several boggy creeks; then after
several fruitless exertions through bogs and creeks, with a large deep
strong running stream and through quagmire, was obliged to retrace my
steps and get outside of the creeks, having failed completely in getting
over them; they would swallow horses and everything we had got. Went on
bearing of 99 degrees for three and a half miles and camped on a
magnificent lagoon about one mile long and about 200 yards wide, a
perfect flower garden.
Friday, April 4.
Camp, Jeannie Lagoon; went and had a view from hills east; saw there
Kangaroo ranges far to the east, tier after tier, country timbered, etc.
Saturday, April 5.
Camp 28. At daybreak sky wild-looking to eastward; wind from south;
strong. Never in all my experience found the flies so thorough a pest as
they have been for the last week or ten days. We get on without our bread
quite as well as I expected; the vegetables we use by boiling are famous
things, both as a substitute for bread and keep the party in good health.
The natives on the main creek lower down south call it cullie; it is a
sort of spinach and does not grow more than a foot high but spreads
perhaps twice that much. Started over on bearing of 45 degrees; at three
three-eighth miles came to and crossed a broad swamp from the eastern
hills; a little further back on the right of my course appeared to be
another lagoon; at five-eighths of a mile commenced crossing low
sandhills; splendid feed all the way. Changed the course, the ground
ahead having too many high-looking sandhills. Saw a couple of natives in
the distance crossing the swamp; I crossed some considerable distance
west of them; they evidently did not see us. Cannot keep straight; there
is a large deep creek here immediately on my left, about fifty yards
wide; bearing of 60 degrees for one and a quarter miles; then bearing of
24 degrees, crossing the creek (small one); making for north-west end of
another sandhill two and a quarter miles further; then bearing of 15
degrees, passing on the left some fine myall and sandhill country,
splendidly grassed and strongly wooded with myall and other trees of
various kinds in splendid foliage; two and a quarter miles bearing of 33
degrees over sandy undulation on the right and innumerable creeks on the
left for one and one-eighth miles; in all sixteen and a quarter miles and
camped on some mulga near some of the branches of the creek.
Sunday, April 6.
Camp 29. Beautiful cold morning; what little wind there is is from the
south-west. Started away on bearing of 40 degrees for thirteen and a half
miles; first part over stony myall undulations (open) the latter part
free from stones and much less wooded except in the creeks that
constantly come in from the ranges from the eastward. As I am now passing
a couple of circular table-topped hills pretty close on the right I will
change my course for a thicket of myall and camp that I may be enabled to
ride to the height and have a view of the general course of the creek, as
what I am on is too flat to get a view at all. Changed course and camped;
distance travelled fourteen and five-eighth miles; day beautifully cool.
A tier of ranges continues on my right all along, varying from five to
eight miles distant, timbered with mulga, same as one I went on the day I
camped at Jeannie Lagoon; a mass of detached pyramids, cut and conical
coronet-topped hills are between my course and the main range and I have
the creek to the right. Not far off passed abundance of water on course
over top of Euro Hill; creek bears suddenly off westward--a likely way to
get over the range and meet it again by a gap in range bearing 349
degrees. It appears to pass through and receive large tributaries from
the west and northward, between large leading ranges on the west and
through range with gap on the east side, that I talk of passing through
to meet it again on bearing 318 degrees, or of bearing 340
degrees--nearer considerably than the former. This hill is a conical
coronet-topped hill of burned sandstone mixed with some quartz and is
four miles from camp, on a bearing of 157 1/2 degrees. Belts of mulga
between camp and this; the country to north-east and round by east to
south for some miles is not all good; a little spinifex and the ground
perfectly strewed with bronzed stones of various sizes; no ranges visible
from north round to north-east, but plains and mulga scrub; one larger
hill similar, but coated with spinifex and bush of various sizes, is
close by bearing 300 degrees; another about the same size as this,
thickly coated with spinifex, and a couple of bushes about 300 yards off
bears 225 degrees. Between me and main range to the east are numerous red
pyramid hills of various sizes, and southward a number of detached
table-topped hills, peaks, and mounds, all more or less timbered. Just as
I was getting up this hill a fine euro hopped off down the side some
distance off, and when I got on the top another sprang up and as I had my
pistol with me I fired and luckily killed him, so I call the hill Euro
Hill. After I had finished on the hill I disembowelled the euro and
carried it to the camp to have it used and help the meat to last; I hope
we may get plenty more.
Monday, April 7.
Camp 30. Exceedingly cold during the night but a beautiful morning.
Started on bearing 5 1/2 degrees for six and three-quarter miles; first
part of it over open flats with mulga creeks and watercourses, many with
water; next over burnt stony undulation with mulga watercourses; at five
miles came in amongst a quantity of detached hills of lime and sandstone;
the ground strewed with bronzed burnt small stones and takes the print of
an animal's foot readily, having a light soil under. At the end of this
distance, six and three-quarter miles, two creeks again full in view, one
apparently on bearing 9 degrees, passing above and below a small
table-topped hill, the other on bearing of 40 degrees, which I suppose I
must follow till I can cross. For five miles passing stony slopes towards
the creek and a vast abundance of vine with large yellow blossoms, the
fruit being contained in a leafy pod; that fruit when ripe contains three
or four black seeds as large as a good-sized pea. I must try them cooked
as I find the emu tracks very abundant where the vine is most plentiful.
I can from this point see the creek distinctly break off from the branch
on bearing of 354 degrees, but I must keep on the branch still; bearing
now 35 1/2 degrees. The tops of the low hills are of a whitish colour,
and an immense quantity of gypsum is scattered over them as well as over
the slopes as I came along, and the tops and slopes of the hill have
mallee with other trees and shrubs; course 35 1/2 degrees for three
three-eighth miles, first part burnt undulation of thin brown slate
gypsum cliffs for a short distance, without a shrub or bush on them;
precipitous slopes, tops alone having bushes or trees; latter part over
undulation more or less stony to creek where it turns suddenly to
northward again; bearing of 338 degrees over flooded well-grassed country
for two miles on to the main creek; a hill on opposite side within
twenty-three yards of creek bank. This is a magnificent stream here. It
is at least 250 yards wide and from forty to fifty feet down the banks to
the water, lined with noble gums, box, bean, and other trees; how deep it
is difficult to say. Lots of ducks of various kinds, cormorants, magpies,
corellas, pigeons of various kinds, with the usual accompaniment of crows
and hawks. Small hill visible in the distance to south of east; very
extensive plain in that direction also, as well as east and north of
east, with abundance of excellent pasture and timbered low ridges, stony,
but well grassed with limestone and the everlasting plum-pudding stone
with sandstone. Current in creek I should say not more than half a mile
per hour.
Tuesday, April 8.
Camp 31. Cool during the night with a heavy dew, beautiful morning, not a
breath of wind: keeping a short distance from the creek to cross a boggy
tributary from the east, for two and three-quarter miles, then through
timbered stony rising ground, plenty of feed; the bronzed middle-sized
pigeon of Cooper's Creek seen here; bearing of 40 degrees for two and a
quarter miles along limestone and plum-pudding slopes; part of creek on
left on bearing of 30 degrees for three and a quarter miles, timber for
building purposes to be had here in sufficient quantities; bearing of 45
degrees for three-quarters of a mile; bearing 50 degrees for one mile;
bearing of 40 degrees three-quarters of a mile over myall open country,
some of it very stony where the flood has swept over it; now on the right
are some fine plains backed in by low myall ridges; bearing of 42 degrees
for four and three-quarter miles, the creek on the left, tributaries seem
to come in and join on opposite side, cross a creek from east in its
swamp, plenty of water (Kell's Creek); I have come to a stony
crossing-place and recross over to north-west side; the female camel
bogged but we soon got her put to rights; for the last three miles the
ground we travelled over is nearly one mass of stones, limestone and
agate or flint, and very bad travelling; the creek runs strong--I have
called it Mueller's Creek after F. Mueller of Melbourne--fifteen and a
half miles. After getting to camp got a horse and went out north of west
to a ridge some short distance off and saw to the westward a large
tributary that I think will suit my course; at little over quarter of a
mile a very large creek comes in from north of north-east and flows
southward, it has ceased running and has a broad stony bottom but has
splendid reaches of water; this I have called the Robinson after J.
Robinson, Esquire, of Hume River. Considerably to east is a well-defined
range in the distance, running north and south with three detached mounds
of hills and I have called it Mount Mueller after F. Mueller, Esquire.
Wednesday, April 9.
Camp 32. Heavy dew, beautiful still morning, a few fleecy clouds.
Started, bearing of 285 degrees for one and a quarter miles, at
three-eighths of a mile crossed the Robinson, at three-eighths of a mile
further crossed a nice creek with large reaches, the Mansergh; at
three-eighths of a mile further changed our mode of travel to the bearing
of 330 degrees for two and a quarter miles; then bearing 354 1/2 degrees,
spinifex hill or range close on the right, good open country travelled
over; creek on the left about two miles off, alluvial deposit on plain,
over which we travelled for six and three-quarter miles then entered a
mulga range (low) bronzed stone on the ascent but plenty of feed and
numerous traces of kangaroo. Saw lots of emu on the plains; still on
bearing of 354 1/2 degrees to creek, passing on the right a vast quantity
of spinifex and ranges of sandstone right on the banks of creek for three
and a quarter miles, crossed it on a bearing of 284 degrees
three-quarters of a mile, plenty of water, the creek I have called the
Fletcher after G.B. Fletcher, Esquire, Tapio, Darling River, New South
Wales; then bearing 295 degrees for Coronet-Topped Hill, centre of next
creek, at three miles made the creek, went one quarter of a mile into it
and camped; the last three miles has been a pipeclay, slaty, spinifex,
miserable country with detached conical, white, clay-slaty hills, top of
the range all spinifex, although timbered with a white-barrelled gum of
no great dimensions; distance travelled today seventeen and a half miles.
Thursday, April 10.
Camp 33. Fine morning, wind moderate, south, on bearing of 300 degrees up
the clear ground in the apparent centre of this immense creek; passed
north end of stony (sand) spinifex-topped and pipeclay, north end at one
and one-eighth of a mile; bearing of 315 degrees high bluff,
spinifex-topped, hills all along at the right of creek, except the valley
of the creek, this is the most miserable country we have been in for some
time, if you offer to ascend the ridges they are nothing but a mass of
very rough stones, spinifex, and mulga, myall, and white-stemmed
gumtrees, very difficult to travel over, three miles on 315 degrees;
obliged to change course, great part of the heavy creek, on my left,
crossing my course, and bearing up more to eastward another creek bears
off to considerably west of north, now on bearing of 285 degrees crossing
the different branches of this immense creek which I have called the
Cadell, after F. Cadell, Esquire, the enterprising and indefatigable
navigator of the Murray and Darling, etc. etc., not that he will ever be
able to steam up this length; 285 degrees for one and a quarter miles of
other creeks that appear to go off on a bearing, at present, of 200
degrees, which I follow on its north-east side, or rather up through it,
as it is divided into innumerable branches with abundance of water;
camped at six and three-quarter miles on this course in the centre of the
creek; the hills recede a good deal from the creek and are not so
rough-looking or abrupt as they were in the morning and yesterday; the
creek I have called Middleton, after Mr. Middleton, one of our party, who
at all times has rendered me most material services and who, had I lost
him during his late severe illness I should scarcely be able to get along
without, he is always ready at the post when there is anything particular
to do.
Friday, April 11.
Camp 34. Fine morning; wind moderate south. This creek receives a
tributary from the southward of west about a quarter mile lower down than
this. I shall pass through this creek to north-east side, that being the
best and most open travelling, the south-west side having myall timber
from the creek to the ranges as far as visible. If the country at all
suits and, as my food cannot possibly carry me back to Adelaide, I shall
shape my course for the southern part of the Gulf of Carpentaria about
the Albert River, thence to Port Denison, then to wait instructions from
South Australia. On bearing of 45 degrees; half a mile across the
different branches of the immense creek, then on bearing of 314 degrees
along splendid plains, passing at nine and a half miles a detached small
tier of ranges running on to and ending at the creek; from the top of the
nearest one the creek appears to bear through ranges 294 1/2 degrees;
ranges on this side appear only detached and far distant from the creek,
leaving magnificent plains intervening. A small red conical hill is close
to the creek about a mile from this bearing 306 1/2 degrees. I now
recross the creek on bearing of 294 1/2 degrees as it is more suitable
for my purpose, the creek in the distance at its western bend bearing 305
degrees about nine miles distant, at which place it receives a tributary
from the ranges to the eastward on the course of 294 1/2 degrees for
eight and a half miles. Camping on south-western side of creek, passing
over excellent country. Travelled today eighteen and a half miles. The
creek that comes in on the opposite side I have called Saville's Creek.
From this camp a coronet-shaped hill, at or near the termination of a
tier of ranges approaching the creek within five miles, bears 30 degrees,
a bluff termination of ranges from the creek on south-west side and on
south-west of our tomorrow course bears 279 1/2 degrees, about eight to
ten miles.
Saturday, April 12.
Camp 35. Fine morning. I have had to send back to last camp for a small
saw, carelessly left behind by the cook. On bearing of 294 1/2 degrees on
south-west side of creek direct, seven and a half miles through, the
creek came direct in my course and sheered round again north before that
distance; then bearing of 313 degrees for five and three-quarter miles,
and camped, making the stage short to await the messenger for the saw.
Wind south. Immense open downs or plains, well grassed with similar hills
to what we have passed, wanting the spinifex. Messenger arrived with saw.
Sunday, April 13.
Camp 36. Evenings, nights, and mornings are beautifully cool; the days
are quite hot enough. It is astonishing to see how fast the waters have
dried up. I hope that near the tops of the creeks the water will not fail
us, for up to this we have had lately much more than we want. Bearing of
336 degrees, on south-west side of creek still. Ranges now on the left
and at the distance of from thirteen to fourteen miles, appear to come
right on to the creek on both sides at two and a half miles; on bearing
of 336 degrees. Tributary from south-west side; at five miles another
tributary on same side; at six and three-quarter miles another. At
fourteen miles the hills close, those on the north-east side nearer than
the south-west side ones. At fourteen and a half miles tributary joins on
opposite side from the hill close by. At fifteen and three-quarter miles
hill (burned sandstone) comes on to the creek; the timber in the creek
nearly all white gum, the North of Adelaide native orange, and a new
fruit, something similar, that when ripe splits open down the sides
whilst still green, and grows on a low prickly shrub, leaf not unlike the
orange but longer and when near other trees or shrubs entwines itself
round them and grows to a good height. The actual distance today direct
is about fifteen miles, as the creek came in my course and receded again
before we came to camp--camped across the creek. Kirby by some
unfortunate mistake on his part did not arrive here tonight. Will send
after him first thing in the morning; burnt a blue light and made a low
fire on the top of the hill for him but without effect.
Monday, April 14.
No word of Kirby; sent after him, found him on the tracks some miles
away, and did not get to camp till near noon. He says he got entangled in
the creeks and could not make the tracks out. Lots of kangaroo and emu
here but shy; cloudy and hot. Looks as if we were to have a shower; I
wish we may. Camp here today.
Tuesday, April 15.
Camp 37. Late in starting, some horses being absent; nice cool breeze
from north-north-east--bearing of 2 1/2 degrees; creek on the left at
three-quarters of a mile, tributaries join on each side; at two and a
half miles remarkable peaky and table-topped hills on right; hills close
on both sides. At four and a half miles changed course to 8 degrees; at
one and a half miles heavy tributary came in from east-south-east, and is
I think the principal channel; completely ran the creek out north and
then followed and ran out the principal one. Retreated twice and
compelled to camp at a water in the flat a quarter of a mile north of
where I struck the creek. Distance today six and a half miles; although I
suppose I travelled treble that distance. After camping got a horse and
went out over the ranges in a west and north direction and saw what I
suppose will be a course to suit me tomorrow; otherwise it was my
intention to have taken one man and a packhorse, and pushing over the
range northward to see if we are near the north watershed, or to have
found a practicable route. Ranges are covered with spinifex and rough
stones. Hodgkinson shot a euro which will help us on and save a sheep.
Wednesday, April 16.
Camp 38. Started on a general bearing of 292 degrees over the ranges and
at seven miles direct got onto a large myall flat; at nine miles passing
over myall flat. Red table-topped range close on right; passed through
the mass of them and the last of the range; and changed bearing to 325
degrees for three and a half miles, making for a gum creek that appeared
to come from the ranges from north and east. Found no water on the road
nor in the creek but fortunately some in a side creek at which place I
camped. Saw a native signalising to westward, a considerable distance.
Thursday, April 17.
Camp 39. Beautiful morning. Started on bearing of 305 degrees across an
extensive myall, gum, and box flat, with innumerable tributaries into it
in all directions. General drain up to the south; water in many
watercourses as we cross the flat, and must be an immense creek a little
lower down, where they all unite. Keep the course for eleven miles,
crossing a fine open creek running northward, which I think is the same
that we crossed this morning flowing south; then over spinifex ridges on
bearing of 300 degrees onto a fine open flat. Heavy ranges west. Apparent
fall of water northward; about four miles south of this and immediately
over the open undulation at the distance the flow takes place south; on
this last course two and a quarter miles; on bearing of 295 degrees for
two miles, 293 degrees for two and a quarter miles over splendid country
and camped at first creek we met with plenty of water. Unfortunately
Kirby with the sheep has got astray; and Hodgkinson, who was sent after
him in the morning to swerve him from the course he was then on and bear
up north for ours, came up to me in the midst of a spinifex range, whilst
leading on the party, with the stupid information that he could not
follow his tracks; and on being rated for so doing and sent back arrived
at 10 p.m., and never got on his tracks again but says he went back to
the camp we left in the morning--for what purpose he only knows; in
consequence the unfortunate man did not arrive at camp. I will send after
him first thing in the morning. After getting into camp I rode out south
towards the watershed but found it further off than I anticipated from
this camp. It must be from ten to fifteen miles and most excellent
country. The main range west from what I could see of it is very stony;
few trees and a great abundance of kangaroo and other grasses. Emu and
kangaroo in abundance. Range runs to east of north a little and to south
of west a little and is formidable. Distance travelled seventeen and a
half miles.
Friday, April 18.