CHAPTER IX.

Departure from Beddgelert—Vortigern’s Hill—Snowdon—Llynn Gwynant—Lines

written upon Llynn Gwynant—Gwrydd—Public Houses—Lake Fishing—A Night

Adventure—Pass of Llanberis—Legend of the Giant’s Night-Cap—The Lakes—The

Castle of Dolbadarn and Legend—View of the Lakes.

“Oh, who hath stood on Snowdon’s side,

And glanced o’er Mona’s virgin pride;

And gazed on fatal Moel y don,

But thought of those once there undone?

When Saxons, and their foreign band,

Were crushed by the sons of the mountain land.”

_T. J. Llewelyn Grichard_.

ON the following morning I quitted the inn, where every attention was

shewn that a traveller could desire, and proceeded over the Ivy bridge,

through which the Gwynant flowed, deep and smooth as glass, without an

obstruction to ruffle its clear waters, that glided along, kissing its

verdant banks, like the stream of a happy life. Quietude reigned in this

region uninterrupted. About half a mile from Beddgelert, a rocky

eminence projects into the road, called _Vortigern’s Hill_, or _Dinas

Emrys_, a magician, who was sent for to this place by Vortigern, when he

found himself hated by his subjects, and fled from their just anger to

this secluded spot. Passing this memorable place, a round clump of rock

attracts the eye, rising as it were in the centre of the valley, and

called _Moel Wynn_. Looking backward, _Moel Hebog_, the Hawk hill, rises

majestically and closes up the entrance to Beddgelert. Moel Shebbod

towers in front, and, as we pursued our delightful path, about two miles

and a half from Beddgelert, an opening of the hills upon the left

displayed a deep gorge, and the base of Snowdon, whose high peak, rising

in the unclouded skies, held up the holy symbol of Christianity, as in

adoration of the Creator. At length, I reached _Llynn Dinas_, a lake of

about three quarters of a mile in extent, through which the Gwynant runs;

it is surrounded by lofty mountains of a deeper tint than is usually seen

upon the Welsh hills. A beautifully situated cottage here at the far end

of the lake, belonging to Mr. Sampson, nestles among the protecting

woods, and forms a delightful object. The river which feeds the lake,

winds through the verdant and undulating grounds which form a miniature

park, between the cottage and the lake. Following up the course of the

stream, I left Llynn Dinas behind me, and proceeded by a gradual ascent

through the most delightful scenery I ever beheld, until I caught

glimpses through the plantations of

LLYNN GWYNANT,

and after a while beheld it stretching beneath me upon my left hand. The

valley forms a bowl among the hills. The bottom is a small grassy plain,

dotted with trees, which has obtained the appellation of Beauty sleeping

in the lap of Terror. The mountains that surround the vale, have a wild

and rugged appearance. As I proceeded along the road towards the head of

the valley, a horn was sounded from the mountain, and I perceived a Welsh

girl standing upon a projecting eminence: bare headed and bare footed,

was this nymph of Cambria; her cheeks were swelled out with her

occupation, and she looked like a female _Boreas_, bursting with the wind

she was sending forth by degrees to alarm the _world_.

She eyed me with glances of curiosity all the while, and I thought she

could perhaps give me some information about the valley, which might be

interesting; so quitting the direct road, I scrambled up the hill side,

and asked her the meaning of her sounding the horn so loudly? But she

either did not, or would not, understand me; and after vainly

endeavouring to extract any thing from her, I quietly sat myself down,

delighted by the splendid view beneath me, and gave vent to my feelings

in the following lines:

LLYNN GWYNANT.

Llynn Gwynant, Llynn Gwynant! how bless’d should I be,

When the winter of life crowns my temples with snow,

To rest on thy margin, with her who loves me,

And children whose love gathers strength as they grow.

There are mountains whose peaks rise more lofty by far,

And valleys more spacious and fertile to view,

But of all the high hills and green glens that there are,

Llynn Gwynant give me, with its waters of blue.

Lynn Gwynant, Lynn Gwynant! I bid thee farewell,

Where peace in the beauty of solitude glows,

Again in the cold hearted city to dwell,

And pine for the calm of thy blissful repose.

Farewell to the lake with the surface of glass,

Brown heath and blue mountains—abode of the free!

This heart, like the flood from the high _Ffynnon Las_, {250}

Will leap from its gloom to find rapture in thee.

Having nearly reached the extremity of this valley, I gazed, from my

elevated situation, upon the dark and perpendicular rocks on the opposite

side; and towering in the air immediately over the centre of the valley

was an eagle with expanded wings, apparently motionless. Presently it

rose a little higher, but without the slightest visible exertion, then

stooped again, mounted once more, and, as fast as the eye could follow,

swept round the huge buttresses of sharp ridged cliffs, that hang over

the entrance of the pass of Llanberis.

As Llynn Gwynant is gradually shut out from the lingering gaze of the

traveller, (who it may be said during the whole of the ascent, should

turn his eyes behind him), and he at length looks forward in the

direction of Llanberris, a new scene of grandeur bursts upon him. He has

left beauty behind in its loveliest form;—but the sublime and wonderful

now call forth all the springs of admiration.

[Picture: Snowdon, from the Pass of Llyn Gwynant]

Snowdon again appears in all his splendor! Mountains that by comparison

looked like hillocks rise round his regal waist, in groups numerous and

picturesque. The deep black crags that form the western side of the

valley make a magnificent fore-ground, and open here like nature’s gates,

to disclose the secrets of her bosom.

The accompanying etching, gives an admirable idea of this imposing scene.

About a mile from hence is a place called Gwrydd, where there is a small

public house, with a sign signifying nothing. Here I resolved to “rough

it” for a day, intending to fish the lakes, situated immediately above

this spot, as nature’s cisterns to water the pleasant valleys.

The public house possesses a small parlour, carpetted, with half a dozen

hair-bottomed chairs, and a mahogany table. A silent but most

importunate monitor urged me to discover what food this mountain chalet

could produce. “Eggs and bacon,” was the expected reply to my question;

and I soon had the pleasure of seeing this humble, but most grateful,

fare placed before me, and in spite of the indifferent style of the

cooking, I partook of it eagerly, having that incomparable sauce “a good

appetite.”

After I had repaired my broken rod, I ascended the mountain at the back

of the house, and arrived at a large oval lake, in which the black and

sterile rocks that form inaccessible ramparts on one side are reflected

in its generally unruffled surface. The scene is wild and desolate, such

as Despair herself would select for her abode. There are plenty of fish

in this lake, but they are all small and extremely shy. I remained upon

its margin until the shadows of night gave me warning to attend to my

safety, and make the best of my way to my lodging, where I speedily

ascended by a ladder-like staircase to a kind of cock-loft which was

divided into two compartments, one for the accommodation of the family,

man, wife, children and servants, the other fitted up for travellers.

Sleep soon overtook me, and I should have continued to sleep, I have no

doubt, until breakfast time, had I not been awakened by a trifling

accident.

“At the mid hour of night, when stars were weeping,”

and ghosts of the mighty walk upon the hills, with a variety of other

interesting objects that poets and nursery maids have described

infinitely better than I can pretend to do, I was visited by a dream in

which the ghost of a lobster popped his head out of a salad bowl, and

demanded upon what authority I had presumed to make mince-meat of his

body, when a loud crash roused me from my slumber, and I found myself

with my knees, doubled up to my chin upon the floor; the bedstead having

broken in the middle, and deposited me in this unenviable position. I

need not say that for the remaining part of the night, I was wholly left

to waking reveries, and uncontrollable desires for the blessings of

daylight, which at last greeted my longing eyes, and hurrying on my

clothes, I descended and walked forth to scent the morning air, in the

direction of Llanberris. The mists rolled like troubled lakes in the

valleys, and the black bleak rocks looked cheerless and forbidding. The

breeze was keen and piercing, and I started at a round pace to get myself

warm by exercise. Having reached the summit of the roadway, I plunged at

once into the pass of Llanberis, wild and gloomy. The precipices on my

left looked truly terrible, like the shadow of death wrapped in a vapoury

shroud. This pass is above four miles in length, and is a fine specimen

of rugged grandeur. Not a single tree enlivens with its verdure this

tremendous chasm. Range above range of rocks tower over the traveller

upon either side, bearing various tints of black, brown, green and

purple, according to the disposition of the sun’s rays, and the distances

of the ponderous masses. The rocks on both sides are nearly

perpendicular; and, about two miles down the pass, the tourist will

perceive some prodigious masses of rock upon his right hand that have

fallen from the overhanging cliffs, which, when he pauses to look upon,

will strike a feeling of terror into his heart, as he inwardly exclaims,

“could any one have witnessed the descent of this tremendous mass?” The

accompanying sketch gives a most accurate description.

[Picture: Pass of Llanberis]

I stood contemplating this scene, and suddenly a wild shout roused me

from my reverie.

“Halloo, halloo! over—over—over!”

I turned my eyes up the mountain to my left, and there saw a shepherd,

forming a speaking trumpet with his hands, and shouting to a dog (of what

kind heaven knows, but in my opinion a thorough bred mongrel), and the

fleet animal was dashing down the hill in the direction to where I stood.

In an instant, he had passed me. It was a perfect nondescript! a thing

that looked like the offspring of a French poodle and a Welsh goat; such

a mass of hair, rags and wool, I never before beheld. I sat watching his

progress, which was exceedingly rapid, and as I marked him, as he

scrambled up the opposite craggs, I could not help admiring the instinct

(or training) of the wretched looking animal. Sheep after sheep did it

pursue, and drive down into the hollow from which they had strayed—some

of them leading him a chase (of no enviable description) nearly to the

summit of the barren mountain; but, with untired feet and unceasing bark,

he tracked and outstripped them all, and, in conclusion, forced them into

the bounds allotted for them at the bottom of the vale, where a scanty

supply of grass served for them to browse upon. This duty done, the

faithful animal left them, and again crossing the valley, rushed by me

and rejoined his master.

I was about to pursue my journey, when I perceived a man fishing in the

stream beneath. I descended to learn what sport he had met with, and

found he had not been fortunate. I asked him if he remembered the time,

when the huge rock, I have before noticed, fell from the brow of the

precipice?

“It would be hard for me to do that, sir,” said the fisherman, who laying

his rod upon the ground, seemed desirous of saying something more upon

the subject.

“Is there any legend about it?” I inquired.

“Indeed, sir, there is,” replied he; “and, if you’ll only stop till I put

up my tackle, as I suppose you’re going to Llanberis, I’ll tell you as

much as I know about the matter.”

I remarked, as he spoke, an expression of countenance that told me he

thought tale telling might prove more profitable than trout fishing; but

I readily agreed to his proposition, and in a few minutes we were

trudging, side by side, along the road towards the village.

I dare say, sir, you havn’t come so far, without seeing _Cader Idris_, or

the _Chair of Idris_, as it is called, for Idris _Gawr_ you must know,

sir, was a famous giant of his day, but whether you have or not, he had a

brother, sir, as I’ve been told, _Dyn Ddu o’r’ Craig_, which means the

black man of the craig, who had a very fine castle upon the top of that

precipice, at the foot of which you noticed those large pieces of rock.

Well, sir, he never loved his brother, but he had a great liking for his

niece; one of the prettiest girls, ’twas thought, ever seen in this part

of the country; but she was to be married to a fine young hero, one of

the knights of King Arthur’s round table, who had done wonders for her

sake, and made all the world confess _Merch Idris_ was the most beautiful

creature in the world.

Well, sir, she was mortally afraid of her uncle, for he had a head as big

as the top of Snowdon, and a forest of whiskers, and a beard that a man

might take a day’s shooting in, without tearing his coat with the

branches; so that he never could be conquered, having so much game in

him, ha! ha! ha!—You’ll excuse me, sir, but what a comfortable thing it

must be for a man to catch birds enough in his whiskers, to serve him for

dinner!—Well, sir, it happened that Merch Idris was benighted between

Capel Curig and her father’s castle, and, as she had only one attendant,

and he was a poor weak coward, you may easily suppose she was for getting

home as fast as possible; but a storm came on, and the night closed round

them, and by some means or other they lost their way; for you know, sir,

at that time there were no turnpike roads, as there are now, and they

wandered about upon their merlins until nightfall, without knowing what

part of the world they were in; when all of a sudden, the servant’s

beast, who went first, sank into a bog, up to his neck; and his rider

began to roar for help so loudly, that the lady’s animal took fright, set

off at full speed, and never stopped until they came to the gates of a

large castle. The night was so dark, she couldn’t make out whether she

had ever seen it before or not; however, she thought it would be better

to blow the horn at the gate, and ask for shelter, than wander about the

mountains all night, at the risk of breaking her neck, or being smothered

in a quagmire. So she blew a blast (for at that time o’ day every great

lady played upon some instrument or other, and this young lady surpassed

all others upon the horn) so loud, that presently a warden called out

from the top of a tower. “Who’s there?” Well, she mustered up courage

enough to say, she was “A lady in great distress.”

“Oho!” says the warden, and off he set. Now the young lady scarcely knew

how to take the salutation of the warden, whether it was meant friendly

or otherwise. She had not pondered long upon those mysterious sounds,

when the portcullis was raised, and the first living thing she saw was

her tremendous uncle Dyn Ddu o’r’ Craig! with a hundred torches behind

him, ready to welcome her into his castle. You may be sure she was not

much pleased at his presence, and regretted that she had not held out

till the morning. But she had gone too far, and so she went in, and the

iron grating was closed again, with a sound that struck terror into her

pretty heart. Now it so happened that Sir Tristram (that was the name of

her lover) was staying with her father, Idris Gawr; and they were both of

them puzzled what to think when Merch Idris didn’t reach home at the time

they expected her. So the knight mounted his charger and gallopped off

one way, and Idris took up his club and walked off the other, to search

for her. All this time, the villain of an uncle was trying to wheedle

the fair maid, his niece, to marry him; and, when he found her deaf to

his monstrous wishes, he flew into a mighty passion, and dragged her to

the top of the precipice, by the hair of her head, and swore, in a most

unchristian manner, that he would pitch her over, if she didn’t consent.

But just as he was about to put his threat into execution, he heard a

horse at full gallop behind him; so he turned round just time enough to

avoid the slashing sword of Sir Tristram, who made a determined cut at

his head, that would have taken it clean off, if he hadn’t have ducked.

Well, he was fain to let go the lady to save himself from the fury of the

knight, although he didn’t think much of him. But he pulled up a tree,

and he made a mighty blow at him, which the knight, by the blessing of

providence, escaped; but the horse wasn’t so fortunate, for it fell upon

the poor creature’s head, and smashed it to atoms. Well, the knight

began to think the giant “too much of a horse” for him; and so he blew

three notes upon his bugle, which was the appointed signal between him

and Idris, and no sooner had he done so, than it was answered.

“And now,” said Sir Tristram, “my fine fellow, you’ll have your match in

a minute; and sure enough, as he spoke, Dyn Ddu o’r’ Craig saw his

brother running at the rate of half a mile a stride. Well, he was

greatly perplexed what to do; but he thought he had better get into the

castle. So, he took Merch Idris under his left arm, and kept the knight

off with the roots of the tree. However, he couldn’t reach the gates in

time.

“And now,” says Idris to his brother, “you ruffian,” says he, “what are

you going to do with my daughter? Put her down, or I’ll smash you, as I

do this tower!” and with that he hit a turret of the castle, and it flew

about in all directions. “Why then,” says the other, “I think I can do

as great a feat as that.” So he knocked the other turret on the head,

and drove it clean down into the earth, so that not a brick of it was

seen above ground! Well, with that the two giants began to bang each

other with their cudgels, till they were black and blue, while Sir

Tristram and the lady ran off to Cader Idris, as fast as they could, to

get out of harm’s way.

Idris was the stronger giant of the two, and after three hours’ hard

fighting, you wouldn’t have known them for human beings; but Idris having

got Dyn with his back to the precipice, (where he threatened to throw the

poor young lady over) hit him, with all his force, such a blow on the

nose as made him stagger back and roll right over the edge of the craig.

Well, he rolled and he rolled, till he got to the place where you were

standing, and then he stopped; but he was quite dead. Then the famous

Idris, seeing his brother lie like a huge bundle of rags, without motion,

by the side of the stream, tore off a large piece from the top of the

mountain, and throwing it with great force, it lit full upon the giant as

he lay, while his conqueror roared out, in a voice that was heard at

Carnaervon,—“Good rest to you, brother Dyn! there’s a nightcap for you!”

And ever since, that piece of rock has been called “the Giant’s

Nightcap.”

* * * * *

We soon obtained a view of the lakes that spread themselves before

us—viz.: Lyn Peris and Lyn Padarn, with the romantic castle of Dolbadarn

upon its rocky promontory. On issuing from a pass on our left, as my

companion informed me, is a valuable copper mine, and a stream of water

conveyed over the road, by the aid of a wooden conduit, into the lake,

which stream, he said, was for the use of the mine.

At length, I reached the inn, called Victoria, and satisfying my

companion with a gratuity which was more profitable than fishing, I

entered and ordered breakfast, and procured an admittance to the castle

of Dolbadarn. This ancient fortress is supposed to have been built by

one Padarn Beisrydd ap Idwal, for the purpose of guarding the mountain

pass which I had just quitted. A single round tower is all that remains

of the castle, although traces are left of a much more extensive

building. Here Owen Goch was imprisoned twenty years by his brother

Llewellyn, the last Prince of Wales of the British line; and an ode is

still extant, written by Howel-Voel, wherein his captivity is

affectionately lamented.

The view from the castle is truly sublime, comprising the two lakes, and

the tremendous range of mountains, that seem to admit no outlet from the

vale. But the most beautiful prospect is from the lake in front of the

promontory on which the castle stands, and is reflected in the smooth

waters beneath, while the majestic Snowdon towers in the distance.

In the twelfth century, it is said there lived a celebrated beauty, whose

father was the lord of this castle, and of whom something like the

following legend is related:

LEGEND OF DOLBADARN.

Margaret of Dolbadarn was one of the fairest damsels of whom Cambria ever

boasted at court or tourney;—fair without vanity, highborn without

ostentation, she exhibited the simplicity of nobility.

Like others of her rank, she had many knights who owned her power, and

panted to put lance in rest for the peerless Margaret; but in the number

there was but one whom her eye followed through the glittering throng,

and whose approach made her heart beat, and the mounting blood turn the

delicate pink upon her cheek to crimson; and William of Montgomery was

the happy knight.

But her father had other views, and Hector of March-lyn-Mawr was proposed

by him to be her husband—a youth of noble presence, but ignoble mind.

His lands extended far and near, and skirted those of the Lord of

Dolbadarn, who was, from that circumstance, doubly anxious to have the

union consummated.

He was, however, a tender guardian; he loved his daughter, and was by her

loved tenderly in return. Both knights had free access to Margaret, and

both were anxious to deserve her favour. William was young, valiant,

handsome, and honest; Hector was bold, gloomy, uncourtly and subtle. The

Baron saw the decided preference his daughter gave to William of

Montgomery, and grieved in his heart that it was not bestowed upon his

more wealthy rival. He therefore resolved to put a proposal to his

daughter, which was, that at the ensuing tournament to be given at his

castle, the knights should prove their skill upon each other, and that he

who was proclaimed the most accomplished master of his weapons, should

receive her hand as the reward. For, though he was desirous of an

alliance with the wealthy and powerful house of March Lyn Mawr, he was by

no means insensible to the merits of Montgomery, whose name stood high in

the lists of chivalry, and whose engaging manners won friends for him

wherever he appeared. With a heavy heart did Margaret submit to the

proposal of her father, although a feeling of confidence within her bosom

told her the object of her attachment would prove the victor. Far

different emotions agitated the hearts of the rivals, when they were

informed of the Baron’s determination. William of Montgomery flung

himself upon his knees before the old man, exclaiming with enthusiasm,

“By bath, and bed, and white chemise, {266} I will for ever be a true

knight to thee for this especial favour, my good Lord of Dolbadarn! My

lance and blade are yours at command, and,” turning to his rival,

“Hector, if I bear thee not over thy charger’s croup, why say my heart

and hand shook with fear in the encounter.—But, if thou gainest the

field, I’ll give thee a grey palfrey for thy bride, to bear her to the

church yonder, by thy side.”

“Agreed,” said Hector; “and noble Lord of Dolbadarn, if heaven desert me

not in the hour of trial, I doubt not my success in winning thy daughter

for my bride. Yet, should I fail, I promise thee, William of Montgomery,

to give thee a steed, fleeter than any in thy stables, to bear the Lady

Margaret as thy bride to church, nor will I bear thee any ill will

shouldst thou prove conqueror, but drink a health to thee and thine, with

a kind heart and true.”

At this time, there dwelt an old woman in the pass of Llanberis who was

dreaded by all the country people, for she was accounted a witch; and on

the night of that same day the storm raged furiously, and the tall trees

were cracking in the forest, when a horseman was seen galloping up the

pass. He stopped at the witch’s hut, and knocking loudly, he cried, “Ho!

mother witch! open the door! for thy devil’s counsel is needed.”

The door was then opened, and the knight fastened his coal-black steed,

dripping with rain and sweat, to a withered ash, and strode into the

cabin. The fire reflected in his suit of steel made him appear a knight

of flame; and, as he stamped his armed heels upon the floor, his armour

rang with a muffled sound, like the death bell which tolls for the great,

who die in the odour of sanctity: and the old hag laughed; her spirit was

glad—for she knew that a deed of damning crime was shortly to be

committed!

He sat him down upon the three-legged stool, and said, “Dame, I am ill at

ease; for I love a maid whose heart I cannot win. Attend to me;—the

gallant and high-minded Montgomery I must encounter for her in the lists;

and, should he conquer, he will bear away the prize I am burning to

possess; but, if the chance be mine, her own consent waits on her

father’s choice, whose wishes are for me. Doubts on the issue urge me to

seek thy aid. May my saint desert me if I would not rather shake hands

with the foul fiend himself, than give a palfrey for my Margaret to ride

to church upon, with any but myself.”

The witch laughed aloud, till he jumped from the stool, to see her old

sides shake. “Hector of March Lyn Mawr,” quoth she, “fear not that

Margaret of Dolbadarn will ever become the bride of Montgomery; for

shouldst thou be overcome in the lists, (and my power will not assist

thee in the joust) call aloud ‘Hell kite! hell kite!’ and presently shall

a gallant palfrey come and raise thee from the ground, which being done,

present it to thy foe, and thou shalt see the issue.” He thanked her,

dropped his purse upon the floor, mounted his steed, and vanished down

the pass.

There was a great assemblage of people at the castle of Dolbadarn, to

witness the jousting; and knights from all quarters arrived, to break a

lance with merry England’s best, for glory and lady love.

The tilting ground was enclosed by galleries erected for the ladies and

nobles who wished to be spectators of the games. Upon the plain, at the

end of the vale, fifty shields were hung up by the knights who wished to

signalize themselves. Three score of coursers, with a squire of honour,

first entered the lists; then followed as many knights in jousting

harness, led in silver chains, by the same number of ladies, richly clad,

to the sound of clarions, and trumpets, and minstrelsy. When the ladies

ascended the galleries, the squires dismounted, and the knights vaulted

gaily into their saddles. The scaffoldings were hung with tapestry, and

embroideries of gold and silver; and the scene was animated and costly in

the extreme. Joy lighted up the eyes of all, save those of Margaret and

her two lovers. She sat a lily among roses, pale and dejected.

Sometimes, indeed, she lifted her dark eyes, and her snowy neck took for

a moment the carnation’s hue when she beheld the form of Montgomery,

which yet faded as quickly as it came, and the Parian marble was left

pure as before.

Sir William walked, with a bold and lofty mien, along the line of

shields, glancing at them with indifference, until he stopped before that

which bore the arms of Hector, and then a smile of scorn played upon his

lips, and he passed on. Hector marked that smile, and his cheeks flushed

with anger. Great skill was displayed by youthful knights decked in

ladies’ favours. But, when the time arrived for the trial between Sir

William of Montgomery and Hector of March Lyn Mawr, a hum of unusual

interest arose among the gallant and beauteous auditory. From the

opposed lists they passed each other, to determine the length of the

course, with visors up. Sir William smiled gaily, but Hector wore a sad

and mournful look, as though he feared or doubted the event of the trial.

This ceremony of preparation being over, each took his post assigned,

awaiting the signal for the charge. The Lady Margaret was pale as death,

but none around her noticed it, they being all intent upon the two

knights, who wore no outward favours, though one possessed an amulet

which he had placed near his heart, beneath his vest. It was a white

rose, which the fair Margaret had taken from her bosom, and given him an

hour before in secret.

The nominal prize for the victor was a jewelled sword, but the prize on

which their hearts were set was a gem transcendant—the all-surpassing

Margaret!

And now the heralds sounded the charge, and the combatants met in mid

career. The lance of Hector was shivered upon the breast of Montgomery;

but Sir William’s struck full upon the visor of Hector, which made him

bend his plume backwards. In the second course, Hector struck the

coronal of Sir William’s helmet a skilful stroke. Margaret fainted, and

the ladies about her were busy in applying restoratives; but none

attempted to remove her, being too much interested in the event of the

joust. Montgomery cast a look of fire up to the spot, and then re-closed

his visor for the third course. His opponent was resolved to make it a

decisive one. Striking their spurs into their chargers’ sides, like

arrows shot from opposing bows, they flew along. Then was a clash, a

glittering flash! and the prize was won—for Hector of March Lyn Mawr lay,

stunned and motionless, upon the ground, borne from his saddle by the

lance of the victorious Sir William of Montgomery!

Margaret, being restored to her senses, wept tears of joy, and spoke most

sweet words, when her lover riding beneath the platform, demanded from

her hand the honourable prize.

But a wonder now appeared, which turned all eyes to the spot where Hector

lay o’erthrown; for a milk-white palfrey, of the most exquisite form, had

galloped into the lists, and drawn him from beneath his charger, which

had fallen with him in the violent concussion. His helmet being loosed,

he soon partially recovered, and seeing the beautiful animal frisking and

curvetting, as though overjoyed at his escape, he led it by the mane to

his rival, saying,

“William of Montgomery, I give to thee this palfrey. Present it to thy

bride, to whom I now resign all claim, and only request that she will,

for my sake, let my favourite bear her to the church, where your union is

to be celebrated.”

It was a lovely thing to look upon, and the maiden promised to use no

other on that happy day.

The church of Llanberis was, at this time, about a mile from the castle

of Dolbadarn, and the road, upon the bridal morning, resembled a mosaic

pavement, when viewed from the mountain, it was so thickly studded with

the fantastic dresses of the company, spectators, and gay flags and

streamers waving in the air. The minstrels struck up their boldest notes

of war, or delighted the ears and hearts of the female holiday makers

with the soft songs of love. All was mirth, feasting, and jollity, while

the air rung with the combined names of Margaret of Dolbadarn and William

of Montgomery.

At length, the bridal procession issued forth from the castle gateway;

the heralds led, the minstrels followed. Then came comely maidens with

baskets of flowers, which they strewed around them, as they passed along.

A body of armed knights followed and after them their esquires. Then

appeared a troop of dancing girls, adorned with flowers, and clad in

purest white; and a second band of minstrels struck their harps before

the bridegroom and the happy bride, who rode gaily, side by side. She

was dressed in rich attire; jewels glittered upon her robes and in her

hair; and she rode upon the beautiful steed presented by March Lyn Mawr.

The palfrey seemed proud of its lovely burthen, and gentle as the

unwearied lamb. The bridegroom was clad in a light tunic and hose, and

peaked boots; a many-coloured plume fluttered in his bonnet, and many

sweet words did he whisper in Margaret’s ear. As the assembled multitude

shouted their gratulations, he bent even to his saddle bow, to thank them

for their courtesy. Young Hector rode upon her left, and he laughed,

too, and he bowed low; but in his laugh there was a fiendish sound, and

in his bow a scorn. Then followed the Lord of Dolbadarn, his long white

locks waving in the summer breeze, surrounded by his relatives and

friends. A troop of squires and pages followed, while all the retainers

of his noble house brought up the rear.

The bride and bridegroom passed along, and thousands cheered them on

their way, with shouts and praises. The sun shone brightly above their

heads, and joy was in their hearts. On they went, until a turning in the

road brought them at once in sight of the church; but here the palfrey

grew restive, and Sir William seized the bridle, thinking to control him.

This answered but for a short distance; for they had no sooner reached

the gate, over which was carved a cross, than, even while the groom held

the stirrup for her to alight, away, away, away flew the palfrey, like a

falcon, down the wind. The Lady Margaret was a good horsewoman, but she

could not control the enchanted steed. She, however, kept her seat well,

and hoped the unruly animal would soon relax his speed.

A hundred horsemen galloped after her, the bridegroom taking the lead,

who, being mounted on the swiftest horse, soon left the rest behind,

although unable yet to overtake the bride. The palfrey first dashed

forward in the direction of Carnaervon, but suddenly turned off to the

right, and galloped up the mountain. Hundreds of the peasantry were

trampled under foot by the horses of the pursuers; some bruised, some

crippled, and some killed, while the old Lord of Dolbadarn wrung his

withered hands, and tore his grey locks, in frantic agony. He accused

Hector as the author of all this misery, and vented his curses upon him,

which the infuriated mob hearing, they seized upon the astonished knight,

and almost in an instant tossed him upon their spikes into the air. He

fell to the ground again, but not to rise; his plume, besmeared with

blood, was scattered in every direction; his body, pierced with twenty

wounds, spouted forth blood in fountains; blows fell upon his harness

thick as hail; while a ferocious smith, with one stroke of an axe,

severed the head from the body, and placing it upon a pike, bore the

dripping trophy of vengeance above the applauding and infuriated wretches

who had suffered in the tumult.

Those who could govern their horses flew over the broken country in

pursuit, while fleeter than a startled hind, the palfrey dashed along—at

times abating his swift flight, to give the laggards hope, who furiously

spurred their chargers forward

After the knight,

And lady bright.

But away, away flew the enchanted steed over moss and moor, o’er hill and

dale, through ford and forest; while of those who followed up the chase

some were smothered, horse and rider, in the deep morass; some broke

their necks in attempting to leap stone walls; some dangled from the

boughs in woody dell, or perished in the river, dashed by the torrent

against broken rocks; and they cursed, and died as they cursed.

But Sir William of Montgomery pricked on his horse all foaming, and, as

the strength of the noble animal began to fail, he cried aloud upon his

patron saint to aid him. It was a charm of power, for it was a holy one;

and the creature shook the foam from his mouth, and with recovered

strength, dashed on in the pursuit. That charm, too, struck upon the

heart of the palfrey, which began to fail him, and he tried in vain to

keep the speed he had hitherto maintained. But the impetuous knight,

seeing that he gained upon his lady love, furiously urged on his charger,

and with desperate rashness, burying his rowels in his side,

exclaimed—“Hell kite, speed on!”—the very words the witch had given as a

charm to Hector, and the name of the palfrey.

No sooner was it pronounced, than his speed returned, and away, away the

enchanted steed rushed on, as swiftly as before! The lady was, by this

time, nearly senseless; her eyes were dimmed from the effect of the air,

as she cut through it; and her heart trembled within her, like a

fluttering dove. She cast an imploring look behind upon her lover, and

raised one snowy arm beseechingly. He saw the action, and fancied he

heard her voice, faintly calling upon him for aid. But it was to Him who

governs all, she prayed; and again the wild horse felt the sacred power.

But he had nearly reached the goal. With voice and spur the gallant

knight pressed on up the rising ground, the summit of which, unknown to

Margaret, or the knight, looked over the broad ocean;—it was the terrific

Penman Maur.

Nearer and nearer did the knight approach; his charger’s foam was on the

palfrey’s flanks. Another bound, and he was at the side of

Margaret—another, and there was one loud wild scream that startled the

eagles from their nests. Montgomery had clasped his lady round her

waist, and borne her to his saddle bow. It was the movement of an

instant—but, in that instant, steeds, knight, and lady plunged from the

precipice’s edge! The first fall of fifty feet crushed the palfrey and

war-horse; and the foul spirit, quitting the enchanted steed, like a dark

cormorant hovered over the group.

The knight still clasped the maiden in his arms, whose shrieks were

answered by the eagles’ screams; and the lovers were dashed from rock to

rock, battered and bloody. The maiden fainted; but Sir William held her

with the tenacious grasp of despair, with one arm to his breast, and with

his right hand seized a dwarfish thorn—the only one that grew out of the

rifted rock! But still there was no resting place for feet to stand

upon, while the broken fragments of the cliff, disturbed by the weight of

the fall, thundered downwards from above, and around them in every

direction. One large mass struck the unhappy knight; the fragile thorn

gave way, and the next moment beheld the loving pair, mutilated

carcasses, floating upon the reckless waves! The eagles gorged upon

their flesh, and not a vestige of the lost ones was left. A white scarf

which Margaret wore, and which streamed, like the banner of death, from

the blasted thorn, alone remained to tell the fate of Sir William of

Montgomery, and his blooming bride!

The Pedestrian's Guide through North Wales A tour performed in 1837 · 第 9 / 12 章