In connection with Alexandria, it is in place to speak of its _cryptæ_
or catacombs, a range of primeval sepulchers, on which a prodigious
amount of labor must have been bestowed. They are situated about half a
league along the shore, to the westward of the modern city; and their
intricacy is such, that formerly the guides would not enter them without
a clew of thread, which they unwound as they went in, so that by
following it on their return, they might secure their safe retreat. Dr.
Clarke is very particular in his description of these subterranean
abodes of the dead; and from his interesting narrative the following
particulars have been gathered.
The original entrance to them is now closed, and is externally concealed
from observation. The only place by which admittance to the interior is
practicable, is a small aperture made through the soft and sandy rock,
barely large enough to admit a person upon his hands and knees. Here,
sometimes, the traveler has encountered jackals, escaping from the
interior when alarmed by any person approaching; on which account, a gun
or pistol used often to be discharged before entering, to prevent any
sally of this kind. “Having passed this aperture,” says Dr. Clarke,
“with lighted tapers, we arrived, by gradual descent, in a square
chamber, almost filled with earth: to the right and left of this are
smaller apartments, chiseled in the rock; each of these contains on
either side of it, except that of the entrance, a _soros_ for the
reception of a mummy; but, owing to the accumulation of sand in all of
them, this part of the catacombs can not be examined without great
difficulty. Leaving the first chamber, we found a second of still larger
dimensions, having four cryptæ with _soroi_, two on either side, and a
fifth at its extremity toward the south-east. From hence, penetrating
toward the west, we passed through another forced aperture, which
conducted us into a square chamber, without any receptacles for dead
bodies; thence, pursuing a south-western course, we persevered in
effecting a passage, over heaps of sand, from one chamber to another,
admiring everywhere the same extraordinary effects of labor and
ingenuity, until we found ourselves bewildered with so many passages,
that our clew of thread became of more importance than we at first
believed it would prove to be. At last we reached the stately
antechamber of the principal sepulcher, which had every appearance of
being intended for a regal repository. It was of a circular form,
surmounted by a beautiful dome, hewn out of the rock, with exquisite
perfection, and the purest simplicity of workmanship. In a few of the
chambers we observed pilasters, resembling, in their style of
architecture, the Doric, with architraves, as in some of the most
ancient sepulchers near Jerusalem; but they were all integral parts of
the solid rock. The dome covering the circular chamber was without
ornament; the entrance to it being from the north-west. Opposite to this
entrance was a handsome square crypt with three _soroi_; and to the
right and left were other cryptæ, similarly surrounded with places for
the dead. Hereabouts we observed the remarkable symbol, sculptured in
relief, of an orb with extending wings, evidently intended to represent
the subterraneous sun, or _sol inferus_, as mentioned by Macrobius. We
endeavored to penetrate further toward the south-west and south, and
found that another complete wing of the vast fabric extended in those
directions, but the labor of the research was excessive.
“The cryptæ upon the south-west side corresponded with those which we
have described toward the north-east. In the middle, between the two, a
long range of chambers extended from the central and circular shrine
toward the north-west; and in this direction appears to have been the
principal and original entrance. Proceeding toward it we came to a large
room in the middle of the fabric, between the supposed Serapeum and the
main outlet, or portal, toward the sea. Here the workmanship was very
elaborate; and to the right and left were chambers, with receptacles
ranged parallel to each other. Further on, in the same direction, is a
passage with galleries and spacious apartments on either side; probably
the chambers for embalming the dead, or those belonging to the priests,
who constantly officiated in the Serapeum. In the front is a kind of
vestibulum, or porch; but it is exceedingly difficult to ascertain
precisely the nature of the excavation toward the main entrance, from
the manner in which it is now choked with earth and rubbish. If this
part were laid open, it is possible that something further would be
known as to the design of the undertaking; and, at all events, one of
the most curious of the antiquities of Egypt would then be exposed to
the investigation it merits. Having passed about six hours in exploring,
to the best of our ability, these gloomy mansions, we regained, by means
of our clew, the aperture by which we had entered, and quitted them
forever.”