The mountain of San Antonia, on the route from Guyaquil to Quito, is
described by Ulloa as presenting a series of the most fearful
precipices. In crossing this mountain, the declivity was in some parts
so great, that the mules could not have kept their footing, had not the
paths been filled with holes, upward of two feet in depth, in which the
mules placed their fore and hinder feet, occasionally dragging their
bellies, and the legs of the rider, along the ground. Without these
holes which serve as steps, the precipice would not be practicable.
Should the creature happen, however, to place his foot between two of
these holes, or to falter in the slightest degree, the rider would fall,
and perish inevitably. To lessen the difficulties and dangers of these
craggy paths, the Indians who go before the travelers, dig small
trenches across.
The descent from the hights was a task of imminent danger. Owing to the
excessive steepness, the water had washed away a greater part of the
holes; while, on the one side were steep eminences, and on the other,
the most frightful abysses. The mules were themselves sensible of the
caution requisite in descending; for, on reaching the top of an
eminence, they stopped, and having placed their fore feet close
together, as in a posture of stopping themselves, they also placed their
hinder feet together a little forward, as if going to lie down. In this
attitude, having, as it were, taken a survey of the road, they slid down
with great swiftness to the bottom. All the rider had to do, was to keep
himself fast in his saddle, without checking his beast; as the slightest
motion would have been sufficient to destroy its equilibrium, and both
would have inevitably perished. The address of the creatures was truly
wonderful, for, in this rapid motion, when they seemed to have lost all
government of themselves, they followed exactly the different windings
of the road, as if they had previously reconnoitered, and settled in
their minds the route they were to follow, and taken every precaution
for their safety, amid so many irregularities. The safety of the rider
depended entirely on their experience and address; but, long as they had
been accustomed to travel these roads, they seemed to feel a degree of
horror on reaching the top of a steep declivity. Without being checked
by their rider, they stopped; and if he inadvertently endeavored to spur
them on, they were immovable until they had placed themselves in a
secure posture. They seemed as if they were actuated by reason; for they
not only viewed the road attentively, but trembled and snorted at the
danger; emotions which inspired the party with the most dreadful
apprehensions. The Indians went before, and, placing themselves along
the sides of the mountain, where they held by the roots of trees,
animated the beasts with shouts, until they at last started down the
declivity.
There were some parts where the declivities were not on the side of the
precipices; but the road was so narrow and hollow, and the sides so
nearly perpendicular, that the danger was almost equal. The track being
extremely narrow, with scarcely a sufficient width of the road to admit
the mule with its rider, if the former had fallen, the latter would
necessarily have been crushed, and, for want of room to disengage
himself, would have been mutilated in his limbs, if he had escaped with
life. It was truly wonderful to consider with what exactness these
animals, after having overcome the first emotions of their fear, and
when they were going to slide down the declivity, stretched out their
fore-legs, to the end that they might preserve their equilibrium. The
gentle inclination they made with the body, at a proper distance, in
following the several windings of the road, was also a mark of
surprising sagacity; and, lastly, their address in stopping themselves
at the end of the impetuous career, was truly deserving of observation.
Greater prudence and conduct could not have been exhibited by man!
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