TIDES AND CURRENTS.

Alternate tides in sacred order run.—BLACKMORE.

Among the most wonderful phenomena of nature may be reckoned the tides

of the sea. They were but little understood by the ancients, although

Pliny, Ptolemy and Macrobius, were of opinion that they were influenced

by the sun and moon. The former expressly says, that the cause of the

ebb and flow is in the sun, which attracts the waters of the ocean; and

he adds, that the waters rise in proportion to the proximity of the moon

to the earth.

The phenomena of the tides have been ascribed to the principle of innate

gravitation; but Sir Richard Phillips, in his theory of the system of

the universe, refers them to that general law of motion which he

considers as the primary and proximate cause of all phenomena,

operating, in a descending series, from the rotation of the sun round

the fulcrum of the solar system, to the fall of an apple to the earth.

This motion being transferred through all nature from its source, serves

as the efficient cause of every species of vitality, of every organic

arrangement, and of all those accidents of body heretofore ascribed to

attraction.

The waters of the ocean are observed to flow and rise twice a day, in

which motion, or flux, which in the same direction lasts nearly six

hours, the sea gradually swells, and, entering the mouths of rivers,

drives back the river-waters toward their head. After a continued flux

of six hours, it seems to repose for a quarter of an hour, and then

begins to ebb, or retire back, for six hours more; in which time, by the

subsidence of the waters, the rivers resume their usual course. After a

quarter of an hour, the sea again flows and rises as before.

According to the theory of Newton, these phenomena were supposed to be

produced by an imaginary power called attraction. The moon was supposed

to attract the waters by the influence of an occult power inherent in

all matter; just as the earth was supposed to attract the moon, the moon

the earth, and the planets one another. Others, again, ridicule this

idea, as unsustained and visionary, giving in their turn some theory

that has no better argument to sustain it. And it is probable the time

is yet future when we shall have any theory that will fully account for

all the phenomena of the tides. On account of the shallowness of some

seas, and the narrowness of the straits in others, there arises a great

diversity in the phenomena, only to be accounted for by an exact

knowledge of the place. For instance, in the English channel and the

German ocean, the tide is found to flow strongest in those places that

are narrowest, the same quantity of water being, in this case, driven

through a smaller passage. It is often seen, therefore, rushing through

a strait with great force, and considerably raised, by its rapidity,

above that part of the ocean through which it runs.

The shallowness and narrowness of many parts of the sea, give rise also

to a peculiarity in the tides of some parts of the world: for in many

places, in the British seas in particular, the greatest swell of the

tide is not while the moon is in its meridian hight, and directly over

the place, but some time after it has declined thence. The sea, in this

case, being obstructed, pursues the moon with what dispatch it can, but

does not arrive with all its waters, until after the moon has ceased to

operate. Lastly, from this shallowness of the sea, and from its being

obstructed by shoals and straits, it happens that the Mediterranean, the

Baltic and the Black sea, have not any sensible tides, to raise or

depress them in a considerable degree.

Among the phenomena of the tides, one of the most singular is the bore,

peculiar to several rivers: it is ascribed to the waters, which were

before expansive, being suddenly pent up, and confined within a narrow

space. This bore or impetuous rush of waters, accompanies the first

flowing of the tide in the Ferret, in Somersetshire, and in the Seine,

in France. It is also one of the peculiarities of the Severn, the most

rapid river in England.

One of the greatest known tides is that of the Bristol channel, which

sometimes flows upward of forty feet. At the mouth of the river Indus,

the water rises thirty feet. The tides also are remarkably high on the

coasts of Malay, in the straits of Sunda, in the Red sea, at the mouth

of the river St. Lawrence, along the coasts of China and Japan, at

Panama, and in the gulf of Bengal. The most remarkable tides, however,

are those at Batsha, in the kingdom of Tonquin, in twenty degrees, fifty

minutes, north latitude. In that port, the sea ebbs and flows once only

in twenty-four hours, while in all other places there are two tides

within that space. What is still more extraordinary, twice in each

month, when the moon is near the equinoctial, there is not any tide, the

water being for some time quite stagnant. These, with other anomalies of

the tides there, Sir Isaac Newton, with peculiar sagacity, ascertained

to arise from the concurrence of two tides, one from the South sea, and

the other from the Indian ocean. Of each of these two tides there come

successively two every day; two at one time greater, and two at another

which are less. The time between the arrival of the two greater was

considered by him as high tide; that between the two less, as ebb. In

short, with these simple facts in his possession, that great

mathematician solved every appearance, and so established his theory as

to silence every opposer.

Besides the common and periodical tides, a variety of local currents are

met with in different seas, on different parts of the ocean, and for the

greater part at an inconsiderable distance from land. They have been

usually ascribed to particular winds; but their origin is not easy to

trace, as they have been occasionally found beneath the surface of the

water, running in a contrary direction to the stratum above, and can

not, therefore, have been owing to winds or monsoons. These particular

currents have been ascribed to the immense masses of polar ice, which

produce a greater degree of cold in the under than in the upper stratum

of waters; and it has been suspected that there is an under-current of

cold water flowing perpetually from the poles toward the equator, even

where the water above flows toward the poles. The great disparity of

temperature which is frequently found in deep and superficial soundings

of the same space of water, is thus accounted for.

The most extraordinary current of this kind, is that of the gulf of

Florida, usually called the Gulf stream, which sets along the coast of

North America to the northward and eastward, and flows with an

uninterrupted rapidity. It is ascribed to the trade-winds, which,

blowing from the eastern quarter into the great Mexican gulf, cause

there an accumulation above the common level of the sea. The water,

therefore, constantly runs out by the channel where it finds least

resistance, that is, through the gulf of Florida, with such force as to

continue a distinct stream to a very great distance. A proof of its

having thus originated is, that the water in the Gulf stream has been

found to have retained a great portion of the heat it had acquired in

the torrid zone.

A very singular upper current often prevails to the westward of Scilly,

and is highly dangerous to ships which approach the British channel.

Currents of this description are, however more frequently met with about

the straits of Gibraltar, and near the West India islands, the coasts of

which are so subject to counter-tides, or extraordinary currents, that

it is often dangerous for boats to land. They proceed to the westward,

along the coasts of Yucatan and Mexico, and running round into the gulf,

return into the great ocean by the straits of Bahama, along the coasts

of Florida, in order to pursue, in the north, the course ordained them

by the great Author of nature. In this course the waters run with an

extraordinary rapidity, passing on, however, by a motion so even and

imperceptible, that their speed is not realized by the spectator. But

against the shores and coasts of the various islands in their way, their

progress becomes very manifest, and even dangerous, interrupting the

navigation, and rendering it hardly possible to stem them in their

course.

In addition to these regular currents, there are others, called

counter-tides, which are observable on the sea-coasts and shores. In

places where these flow, the sea rolls and dashes in an extraordinary

manner, becoming furious without any apparent cause, and without being

moved by any wind. The waves rise and open very high, breaking on the

shore with such violence, that it is impossible for vessels to land.

These counter-tides have been, by some, ascribed to the pressure of the

heavy black wind-clouds which are occasionally seen to hang over an

island, or over the sea where they occur, though it is far more probable

that in every case they are caused by under-currents and hidden shoals,

by which the ordinary currents are checked and broken so as to cause the

effects described.

Somewhat similar to these, at least in its hidden cause, is the

celebrated Maelstrom on the coast of Norway, a view of which is given in

the cut. This is caused by the tides, in their violent passage between

the Loffoden islands; and its terrors, though at all times great, are

sometimes greatly increased by the winds. The roar of the sea, when the

Maelstrom is in full action, is said to be terrific. It is stated that

not only ships, but even whales, have been sucked into this vortex, and

killed by being dashed against the hidden rocks. The following

description, though imaginary, gives a correct idea of the destruction

of a ship in this whirlpool.

[Illustration: THE MAELSTROM.]

“The breeze, which had been long flagging, now lulled into a calm, and

soon a low continual hum, like that of an army of bees, which seemed to

rise out of the stilled ocean, became audible to every ear. Not a word

was spoken; every one held his breath whilst he listened with an

intensity of eagerness that betokened the awe that was fast filling the

heart. ‘It is the Moskoestrom!’ cried the boatswain. ‘The Moskoestrom!’

echoed the crew. ‘Away, men!’ shouted the mate; ‘down to the hold, bring

up the spare sails, clear the deck, set up a spar for a mast; away,

away!’

“The din of preparation drowned the stern hum of the distant whirlpool:

there was, however, an anxious pause when the new sail was set into the

air; and experienced sailors suffered themselves to be cheated with the

hope that there was still breeze enough to make the good ship answer her

helm. But, alas! the heavy canvas refused to expand its folds, and not a

breath of wind ruffled the dull surface of the sullen waters. They had

not another hope; the sailors looked on one another with blank dismay,

and now they heard, with awful distinctness, the roar of the terrible

Maelstrom, and the frowning rocks of Loffoden were but too plainly

visible on the right. It became evident to all, that the ship, borne

along by the tide, was fast drawing near the dreadful whirlpool. The

vessel continued slowly to approach, and the certainty of unavoidable

death became every moment more overpowering and intense. At first the

sailors stood together in a group, gazing gloomily upon one another; but

as the roar of the whirlpool became louder and louder, and the

conviction of inevitable destruction became stronger, they all dispersed

to various parts of the ship. * * *

“It was a beautiful day; the sun shone forth without a cloud to dim his

luster, the waves sparkled beneath his influence, and the white plumage

of a thousand busy sea-birds became more dazzling with his rays. The

isle of Moskoe was close at hand, and looked cheerful and inviting, but

the ship was not to approach nearer to its shores; the stream which bore

her along never suffered any vessel to pause in its career. And now

there arose at some distance ahead of the vessel, a horrible and dismal

bellowing. It was the voice of the leviathan in his agony; and when

those on deck who had still ears for exterior sounds looked forward to

ascertain its cause, they beheld a huge black monster upon the surface

of the sea, struggling against the irresistible stream, and with his

immense tail lashing the waters into foam, as he vainly strove to escape

from destruction. They beheld him borne away by the might of his furious

enemy; and they heard his last roar above the noise of the whirlpool, as

he was sucked down into the never satisfied abyss, and disappeared from

their eyes to be torn to atoms; for such is the fate of everything that

seeks the depths of the Maelstrom.

“The ship glides along faster and faster; she begins to toss and roll

uneasily in the angry rapids that boil around her; her race is nearly

run. Terrible! terrible moment! The ship hurries on to her doom with mad

impetuosity. She is in the rapids! she hurries along swift as a flash of

fire. She is in the whirl of water! round, round, round she goes; her

inmates catch hold of her bulwarks and of each other, to steady

themselves. And now her bow sprit is under the waves, and a wild shriek

of despair rises into the sky! The whirlpool, with greedy jaws, has

sucked her under.”

The water of the whirlpool is said to be two hundred and fifty feet

deep, and at ebb its noise is as loud as a cataract. In 1645, it was so

violently agitated by a storm, that in Moskoe the houses were so shaken

as to cause the stones to fall to the ground. Fragments of vessels

wrecked in the Maelstrom are frequently seen on the coast, brought up by

the return of the tide, their edges mashed and jagged as with a saw,

which would induce the belief that the bottom is composed of sharp

rocks.

Similar in its cause to the Maelstrom, though on a much inferior scale,

is the current, or whirlpool, called _Hurlgate_ or _Hellgate_, between

the East river and Long Island sound, near New York. In the narrow

channel here, the tide flows backward and forward with great force; and

there being large, irregular rocks in this channel, the water is thrown

into the most violent agitation. In passing through the place, it is

easy to see the waves seeming to boil as if in a pot. This place is

dangerous to vessels, and many have been wrecked here; though the

navigation is now so well understood, that fewer accidents happen than

formerly. The steamboats generally pass in safety, but still the superb

Oregon got upon the rocks here, within a few years, and came near being

lost.

Between Sicily and the main land are the straits of Messina, where the

current is rapid. Ancient mariners deemed this a terrible place; one

side they called Scylla, and the other Charybdis. The poets depicted the

sailor in this rapid, as beset by horrors; for if he escaped Scylla on

one side, Charybdis was ready to dash him in pieces on the other. This

idea has come down to our day, and has even passed into a proverb.

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The wonders of the world · 第 202 / 450 题