Staffa, about seven miles north-north-east of Jona, and equidistant
westward from the shores of Mull, about one mile in length, and half a
mile in breadth, is noted for the basaltic pillars which support the
major part of the island, and for the magnificent spectacle afforded by
the cave of Fingal, one of the most splendid works of nature.
Notwithstanding the contiguity of this wonderful island to Mull and
Iona, and the numerous vessels which navigate these seas, it was unknown
to the world in general, and even to most of the neighboring islanders,
until near the close of the last century, when Sir Joseph Banks, then on
his voyage to Iceland, in consequence of information received in the
sound of Iona, from some gentlemen of Mull, was induced to sail thither.
It is, indeed, slightly mentioned by Buchanan; but assuredly it was not
equally dead to fame at the time the Norwegians had sway in these parts,
for from them it derives its name of Staffa.
The basaltic pillars stand in natural colonnades, mostly above fifty
feet high, in the south-western part, upon a firm basis of solid
unshapen rock: above these, the stratum, which reaches to the soil of
the island, varies in thickness, in proportion to the distribution of
the surface into hill and valley. The pillars are of three, four and
more sides; but the number of those with five and six exceeds that of
the others; one of seven sides measured by Sir Joseph, was four feet and
five inches in diameter.
On the west side of Staffa is a small bay, the spot where boats usually
land. In this neighborhood occurs the first group of pillars: they are
small, and instead of being placed upright, are recumbent on their
sides, and form a segment of a circle. Further on is a small cave, above
which pillars again are seen, of somewhat larger dimensions, which
incline in all directions; in one place in particular, a small mass of
them much resembles the ribs of a ship. Beyond the cave is the first
continued range of pillars, larger than the former, and opposite to them
is a small island called Bhuachaile, (pronounced Boo-sha-’lay,) or the
Herdsman’s isle, separated from the main by a channel not many fathoms
wide. The whole of this islet is composed of pillars without any strata
above them; they are small, but by much the neatest formed of any in
this quarter.
The first division of this islet, for at high tide it is divided into
two parts, makes a kind of cone, the pillars converging together toward
the center. On the other side the pillars are in general recumbent; and
in the front, next the main, the beautiful manner in which they are
joined is visible from their even extremities: all these have their
transverse sections exact, and their surfaces smooth; but with the
larger pillars the reverse is the case, and they are cracked in all
directions.
The main island opposite the Boo-sha-’lay, and thence toward the
north-west, is entirely supported by ranges of pillars, pretty erect,
which, although not apparently tall, from their not being uncovered to
the base, are of large diameter; at their feet is an irregular pavement,
made by the upper sides of such as have been broken off. This extends as
far under the water as the eye can reach.
In proceeding along the shore, the superb cavern of Fingal appears, for
such is the denomination given it by the Highlanders, to whom it is
known. It is supported on each side by ranges of columns, and is roofed
by the bottoms of such as have been broken away. From the interstices of
the roof a yellow stalactitic matter has exuded, which precisely defines
the different angles; and, varying the color, tends to augment the
elegance of its appearance. What adds to the grandeur of the scene, the
whole cave is lighted from without, in such a manner, that the furthest
extremity is plainly distinguished; while the air within, being
constantly in motion, owing to the flux and reflux of the tides, is
perfectly dry and wholesome, and entirely exempt from the damp vapors to
which natural caverns are generally subject. The following are its
dimensions:
Feet. In.
Length of the cave from the rock without, 371 6
Length of the cave from the pitch of the arch, 250 0
Breadth of the cave at the mouth, 53 7
Breadth of the cave at the further end, 20 0
Hight of the arch at the mouth, 117 6
Hight of the arch at the end, 70 0
Hight of an outside pillar, 39 6
Hight of one at the north-west corner, 54 0
Depth of water at the mouth, 18 0
Depth of water at the extremity, 9 0
The cave runs to the rock in the direction, by compass,
north-north-east.
The mind can hardly form an idea more magnificent than such a space.
And, indeed, speaking of the general aspect of Staffa, Sir Joseph is
led, by his enthusiasm, to make the following reflections: “Compared to
this, what are the cathedrals or the palaces built by man! mere models
or playthings, imitations as diminutive as his works will always be,
when compared to those of Nature. Where is now the boast of the
architect! regularity, the only part in which he fancied himself to
exceed his mistress, Nature, is here found in her possession, and here
it has been left undescribed for ages. Is not this the school where the
art was originally studied? And what has been added to this by the whole
Grecian school? A capital to ornament the column of Nature, of which
they could execute a model only; and for that very capital they were
obliged to a bush of acanthus. How amply does Nature repay those who
study her wonderful works.”
Such were his feelings, and in this way did he moralize, when proceeding
along shore, and treading as it were on another Giant’s Causeway, he
arrived at the mouth of the cave.
To the north-west are found the highest range of pillars. Here they are
bare to their base, and the stratum beneath is visible, as it rises
several feet above the water. The surface of it is rough, with frequent
large pieces of stone sticking in it, as if half immersed. The base,
when broken, appears to be composed of many heterogenous parts, and much
resembles lava. Many of the floating stones are of a similar substance
with the pillars, a coarse kind of basalt, less beautiful than that of
the Giant’s Causeway: the color is a dirty brown. The whole of this
stratum dips gradually to the south-east.
The thickness of the stratum of lava-like matter below the pillars, the
hight of the pillars, and the thickness of the superincumbent stratum,
at three different places westward of the mouth of the cave, beginning
with the corner pillar of the cave, are described as follows by Sir
Joseph Banks:
Feet. In. Feet. In. Feet. In.
Stratum below, 11 0 17 1 19 8
Hight of pillars, 54 0 50 0 55 1
Stratum above, 61 6 51 1 54 7
The stratum above the columns is uniformly the same, consisting of
numberless small pillars, bending and inclining in all directions,
sometimes so irregularly, that the stones can only be said to have an
inclination to assume a columnar form; in others more regularly; but
never breaking into, or disturbing the stratum of large pillars, whose
tops keep everywhere an uniform line. On the opposite side of the island
is a cavern, called Oua-na-scarve, or the Cormorant’s cave; here the
stratum under the pillars is lifted up very high, and the pillars are
considerably less than at the north-west side. Beyond, a bay cuts deep
into the island, rendering it not more than a quarter of a mile across.
On the sides of this bay, especially beyond a little valley, which
almost divides the island, are two stages of small pillars, with a
stratum between, exactly resembling that above, formed of innumerable
little pillars shaken out of their places, and leaning in all
directions. Beyond this, the pillars totally cease. The rock is of a
dark-brown stone, without regularity, from the bay along the south-east
end of the island; beyond which, a disposition to columnar formation is
again manifested, extending from the west side, but in an irregular
manner, to the bending pillars first described.