This volcanic mountain, the dreadful eruption of which we are about to
describe, is the most elevated and most northerly of the lofty chain
running through the West India island of St. Vincent. From the
extraordinary frequency and violence of the earthquakes, which in 1811,
are calculated to have exceeded two hundred, some great movement or
eruption was looked for. In the interim the mountain indicated much
disquietude; but the apprehension was not so immediate as to restrain
curiosity, or to prevent repeated visits to the crater, which had
latterly been more numerous than ever. Even on the twenty-sixth of
April, 1812, the day preceding the eruption, several gentlemen ascended
and remained there for some time. Nothing unusual was then remarked, nor
any external difference observed, except rather a stronger emission of
smoke from the interstices of the conical hill, at the bottom of the
crater. To those who have not visited this romantic and wonderful spot,
a slight description of it, as it lately stood, is previously necessary.
“About two thousand feet from the level of the sea, on the south side of
the mountain, and at rather more than two-thirds of its hight, opens a
circular chasm, somewhat exceeding half a mile in diameter, and between
four hundred and five hundred feet in depth. Exactly in the center of
this capacious bowl, rose a conical hill about two hundred and sixty or
three hundred feet in hight, and about two hundred in diameter, richly
covered and variegated with shrubs, brushwood and vines, above half-way
up, and the remainder covered over with virgin sulphur to the top. From
the fissures of the cone and interstices of the rocks, a thin white
smoke was constantly emitted, occasionally tinged with a slight bluish
flame. The precipitous sides of this magnificent amphitheater were
fringed with various evergreens and aromatic shrubs, flowers, and many
alpine plants. On the north and south sides of the base of the cone were
two pieces of water, one perfectly pure and tasteless, the other
strongly impregnated with sulphur and alum. This lonely and beautiful
spot was rendered more enchanting by the singularly melodious notes of a
bird, an inhabitant of these upper solitudes, and altogether unknown to
the other parts of the island, hence principally called or supposed to
be invisible, though it certainly has been seen, and is a species of
blackbird.
“A century had now elapsed since the last convulsion of the mountain, or
since any other elements had disturbed the serenity of this wilderness,
besides those which are common to the tropical tempest. It apparently
slumbered in primeval solitude and tranquillity, and from the luxuriant
vegetation and growth of the forest, which covered its side from the
base nearly to the summit, seemed to discountenance the fact, and
falsify the records of the ancient volcano. Such was the majestic,
peaceful Souffriere, on April the twenty-seventh; but our imaginary
safety was soon to be confounded by the sudden danger of devastation.
Just as the plantation bell rang at noon on that day, an abrupt and
dreadful crash from the mountain, with a severe concussion of the earth,
and tremulous noise in the air, alarmed all around it. The resurrection
of this fiery furnace was proclaimed in a moment by a vast column of
thick, black, ropy smoke, like that of an immense glass-house, bursting
forth at once, and mounting to the sky; showering down sand, gritty
calcined particles of earth and ashes mixed, on all below. This, driven
before the wind toward Wallibou and Morne Ronde, darkened the air like a
cataract of rain, and covered the ridges, woods and cane-pieces with
light gray-colored ashes, resembling snow when slightly covered by dust.
As the eruption increased, this continual shower expanded, destroying
every appearance of vegetation. At night a very considerable degree of
ignition was observed on the lips of the crater; but it is not asserted
that there was as yet any visible ascension of flame. The same awful
scene presented itself on the following day; the fall of ashes and
calcined pebbles still increasing, and the compact, pitchy column from
the crater rising perpendicularly to an immense hight, with a noise at
intervals like the muttering of distant thunder.
“On Wednesday, the twenty-ninth, all these menacing symptoms of horror
and combustion still gathered more thick and terrific for miles around
the dismal and half-obscured mountain. The prodigious column shot up
with quicker motion, dilating as it rose like a balloon. The sun
appeared in total eclipse, and shed a meridian of twilight over us, that
aggravated the wintry gloom of the scene, now completely powdered over
with falling particles. It was evident that the crisis was yet to come,
that the burning fluid was struggling for a vent, and laboring to throw
off the superincumbent strata and obstructions, which suppressed its
torrent. At night, it was manifest that it had greatly disengaged itself
from its burden, by the appearance of fire flashing above the mouth of
the crater.
“On the memorable thirtieth of April, the reflection of the rising sun
on this majestic body of curling vapor was sublime beyond imagination:
any comparison of the Glaciers, or of the Andes, can but feebly convey
an idea of the fleecy whiteness and brilliancy of this awful column of
intermingled and wreathed smoke and clouds. It afterward assumed a more
sulphureous cast, like what are called thunder-clouds, and in the course
of the day had a ferruginous and sanguine appearance, with a much
livelier action in the ascent, and a more extensive dilatation, as if
almost freed from every obstruction. In the afternoon, the noise was
incessant, and resembled the approach of thunder still nearer and
nearer, with a vibration that affected the feelings and hearing: as yet
there was no convulsive motion, or sensible earthquake. The Charaibs
settled at Morne Ronde, at the foot of the Souffriere, abandoned their
houses, with their live stock, and everything they possessed, and fled
precipitately toward town. The negroes became confused, forsook their
work, looked up to the mountain, and, as it shook, trembled, with the
dread of what they could neither understand or describe: the birds fell
to the ground, overpowered with showers of ashes, unable to keep
themselves on the wing; the cattle were starving for want of food, as
not a blade of grass or a leaf was now to be found; the sea was much
discolored, but not uncommonly agitated; and it is remarkable, that
throughout the whole of this violent disturbance of the earth, it
continued quite passive, and did not at any time sympathize with the
agitation of the land. About four o’clock in the afternoon, the noise
became more alarming, and just before sunset the clouds reflected a
bright copper color, suffused with fire. Scarcely had the day closed,
when the flames burst at length pyramidically from the crater, through
the mass of smoke; the rolling of the thunder became more awful and
deafening; electric flashes quickly succeeded, attended with loud claps;
and now, indeed, the tumult began. Those only who have witnessed such a
sight, can form any idea of the magnificence and variety of the
lightning and electric flashes; some forked and zigzag, playing across
the perpendicular column from the crater; others shooting upward from
the mouth like rockets of the most dazzling luster; others like shells,
with their trailing fuses, flying in different parabolas, with the most
vivid scintillations, from the dark sanguine column, which now seemed
inflexible, and immovable by the wind. Shortly after seven in the
afternoon, the mighty caldron was seen to simmer, and the ebullition of
lava to break out on the north-west side. This, immediately after
boiling over the orifice, and flowing a short way, was opposed by the
acclivity of a higher point of land, over which it was impelled by the
immense tide of liquefied fire which drove it on, forming the figure V
in grand illumination. Sometimes, when the ebullition slackened, or was
insufficient to urge it over the obstructing hill, it recoiled like a
refluent billow, from the rock, and then again rushed forward, impelled
by fresh supplies, and, surmounting every obstacle, carried rocks and
woods together, in its course down the slope of the mountain, until it
precipitated itself down some vast ravine, concealed from our sight by
the intervening ridges of Morne Ronde. Vast globular bodies of fire were
seen projected from the fiery furnace, and, bursting, fell back into it,
or over it upon the surrounding bushes, which were instantly set in
flames. About four hours from the time of the lava’s boiling over the
crater, it reached the sea, as we could observe from the reflection of
the fire and electric flashes attending it. About half past one, the
following morning, another stream of lava was seen descending to the
eastward toward Rabacca. The thundering noise of the mountain, and the
vibration of sound that had been so formidable hitherto, now mingled in
the sudden monotonous roar of the rolling lava, became so terrible, that
dismay was almost turned into despair. At this time the first earthquake
was felt; this was followed by showers of cinders, which fell with the
hissing noise of hail, during two hours.
“At three o’clock, a rolling on the roofs of the houses indicated a fall
of stones, which soon thickened, and at length descended in a rain of
intermingled fire, which threatened at once the fate of Pompeii or
Herculaneum. The crackling coruscations from the crater at this period
exceeded all that had yet passed. The eyes were struck with a momentary
blindness, and the ears stunned with a confusion of sounds. People
sought shelter in the cellars, under rocks, or anywhere, for every place
was nearly the same; and the miserable negroes, flying from their huts,
were knocked down, or wounded, and many killed in the open air. Several
houses were set on fire. The estates situated in the immediate vicinity,
seemed doomed to destruction. Had the stones which fell been heavy in
proportion to their size, not a living creature could have escaped
death: these, having undergone a thorough fusion, were divested of their
natural gravity, and fell almost as light as pumice, though in some
places as large as a man’s head. This dreadful rain of stones and fire
lasted upward of an hour, and was again succeeded by cinders from three
till six o’clock in the morning. Earthquake followed earthquake, almost
momentarily; or rather the whole of this part of the island was in a
state of continued oscillation; not agitated by shocks vertical or
horizontal; but undulated like water shaken in a bowl.
“The break of day, if such it could be called, was truly terrific. Utter
darkness prevailed till eight o’clock, and the birth of May dawned like
the day of judgment: a chaotic gloom enveloped the mountain, and an
impenetrable haze hung over the sea, with black sluggish clouds of a
sulphureous cast. The whole island was covered with cinders, scoriæ, and
broken masses of volcanic matter. It was not until the afternoon, that
the muttering noise of the mountain sunk gradually into a solemn yet
suspicious silence. Such are the particulars of this sublime and
tremendous scene, from its commencement to its catastrophe.”