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THE PEARL OF THE
ANTILLES
OR
_AN ARTIST IN CUBA_
BY
WALTER GOODMAN
HENRY S. KING & CO. 65 CORNHILL & 12 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON 1873
(_All rights reserved_)
TO
MY TRAVELLING-COMPANION AND BROTHER-ARTIST
SENOR DON JOAQUIN CUADRAS
OF CUBA
_THIS VOLUME IS INSCRIBED_
IN REMEMBRANCE OF OUR LONG AND UNINTERRUPTED FRIENDSHIP
AT HOME AND ABROAD
PREFACE.
Cuba having lately become a prominent object of attention, both to
Europe and America, I venture to think that any trustworthy information
that can be given respecting it, may prove acceptable to the reader. I
approach my task with no great pretensions, but yet with an experience
acquired by many years' residence in the Island, and an intimate
intercourse with its inhabitants. I arrived there in 1864, when Cuba was
enjoying uninterrupted peace and prosperity, and my departure took place
in the first year of her adversity. Having thus viewed society in the
Island under the most opposite conditions, I have had various and ample
opportunities of studying its institutions, its races and its
government; and in availing myself of these opportunities I have
endeavoured, as far as possible, to avoid those matters which are alike
common to life in Spain and in Cuba.
As I write, Cuba is passing through a great crisis in her history. For
this reason my experiences may prove more interesting than they might
otherwise have done; nor do I think that they will be found less
attractive, because it has been my choice to deal with the subject
before me from the point of view rather of an artist than of a traveller
or a statistician.
Perhaps I may be allowed to add, that the matter contained in these
pages will be almost entirely fresh to the reader; for, although I have
included a few papers which I have from time to time contributed to _All
the Year Round_, _Cassell's Magazine_, and _London Society_, I have
taken care to introduce them in such a manner as not to break the
continuity with which I have endeavoured to connect the various parts of
my subject.
In explanation of the title chosen for this volume, I may remark that
'the Pearl of the Antilles' is one of the prettiest in that long series
of eulogistic and endearing titles conferred by poets and others on the
Island of Cuba, which includes 'the Queen of the Antilles,' 'the Jewel
in the Spanish Crown,' 'the Promised Land,' 'the Summer Isle of Eden,'
'the Garden of the West,' and 'the Loyal and Ever-faithful Isle.'
WALTER GOODMAN.
22 LANCASTER ROAD,
WESTBOURNE PARK,
LONDON: 1873.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
A CUBAN WELCOME.
PAGE
Our Reception at Santiago de Cuba--Spanish Law--A Commemorative
Feast--Cuban Courtesy--Coffee House Politeness
CHAPTER II.
DAILY LIFE IN CUBA.
A Cuban Home--My Bed-Room--A Creole Breakfast--Don Benigno
and his Family--A Cuban Matron--Church-going in connection with
Shopping--An Evening Tertulia--A Tropical Moon
CHAPTER III.
ART-PATRONAGE IN CUBA.
Our Studio--Our Critics--Our Patrons--Still-Life
CHAPTER IV.
A CUBAN 'VELORIO.'
More Still-Life--A Night-Wake--Mourners--Dona Dolores--A Funeral
Procession--A Burial
CHAPTER V.
CUBAN MODELS.
Tropical Birds--The Coco's--La Grulla--Vultures--Street Criers--Water
Carriers
CHAPTER VI.
CUBAN BEGGARS.
Carrapatam Bunga--The Havana Lottery--A Lady Beggar--A Beggar's
Opera--Popular Characters--Charity--A Public Raffle--The 'King of
the Universe'
CHAPTER VII.
THE BLACK ART IN CUBA.
A Model Mulatto--A Bewitched Watchman--Cuban Sorcery--An Enchanted
Painter
CHAPTER VIII.
A TASTE OF CUBAN PRISON-LIFE.
Two Views of the Morro Castle--The Commandant--The Town Jail--Cuban
Policemen--Prisoners--A Captive Indian--Prison Fare--A
Court of Justice--A Trial--A Verdict
CHAPTER IX.
A WEST INDIAN EPIDEMIC.
A Cuban Physician and his Patient--A Nightmare--A Mystery--A
Cure--By the Sad Sea Waves--A Cuban Watering-place--Lobster-hunting--Another
View of the Morro Castle--What 'Dios sabe'
means
CHAPTER X.
GENERAL TACON'S JUDGMENT.
Pleasant Company--The Cigar Girl of Havana--A Tobacconist Shop in
Cuba--A Romance of Real Life--Spanish Justice abroad
CHAPTER XI.
(VERY) HIGH ART IN CUBA.
On the Ceiling--'Pintar-monos'--A Chemist's Shop a la Polychrome--Sculpture
under Difficulties--'Nothing like Leather'--A Triumph in
Triumphal Arches--Cuban Carpenters--The Captain-General of
Havana
CHAPTER XII.
A CORRESPONDENT IN THE WEST INDIES.
American News-agents and their Work--Local Information--The
'Glorious Campaign' of Santo Domingo--'El Canon de Montecristo'
Wounded Soldiers--Still-Life again--A Visit from the Spanish Fleet--Escape
from Jail
CHAPTER XIII.
CUBAN MUSIC.
A Soiree at Don Laureano's--An eminent Violinist and Composer--Cuban
Pianos--_Real_ Negro Minstrels--Carnival Songs--Coloured
Improvisatores
CHAPTER XIV.
MASQUERADING IN CUBA.
Deserted--'Los Mamarrachos'--A French-Creole Ball--Street Masquers--Negro
Amateurs--Masks and Dominoes--The Plaza de Armas--Victims
of the Carnival--A Cuban Cafe in Holiday Time--'Comparsas'--White
and Black Balls--A Moral
CHAPTER XV.
AN EVENING AT THE RETRETA.
A Musical Promenade--My Friend Tunicu--Cuban Beauties--Dark
Divinities--A Cuban Cafe--A Popular 'Pollo'--Settling the Bill!
CHAPTER XVI.
AT A CUBAN BALL.
The Philharmonic and its Members--A Street Audience--The Guests--Engaging
Partners--'La Carabina'--'La Danza Criolla'--Dance
Music--Refreshments--A Pretty Partner--A Night with Cuban
Gamblers--Spanish Cards--An Old Hand--'Temblores'
CHAPTER XVII.
CUBAN THEATRICALS.
The Stage-Door Keeper--A Rehearsal--The Spanish Censor--A Cuban
Audience--Dramatic Performances--Between Acts--Behind the
Scenes--A Denouement in Real Life
CHAPTER XVIII.
MY DEBUT ON A CUBAN STAGE.
An Engagement--A Foreign 'Star'--A Benefit Night--A Local Play--First
Appearance--A serious 'Hitch'--Re-engagement
CHAPTER XIX.
COFFEE GROUNDS OF CUBA.
Going out of Town--On the Road--A wayside Inn--A Cane Field--West
Indian Fruit Trees--The Arrival--A Dinner in the Country--The
Evening Blessing--Tropical Reptiles--A Farm Yard--Slave
Flogging--Coffee--Tropical Scenery--A Siesta
CHAPTER XX.
COUNTRY-LIFE AT A SUGAR ESTATE.
An Artist's Tent--Early Sport--An 'Ingenio'--Sugar and Rum--Afternoon
Sport--A Ride through the Country--Negro Dancing--An
Evening in the Country--'La Loteria'
CHAPTER XXI.
LOVE-MAKING IN THE TROPICS.
My Inamorata--Clandestine Courtship--A Love Scene--'Il Baccio' in
Cuba--The Course of True Love--A Stern Parent
CHAPTER XXII.
A CUBAN CONVENT.
Without the Walls--'El Torno'--A Convent Letter--Accomplices--A
Powder Plot--With the Nuns--Don Francisco the Dentist
CHAPTER XXIII.
A CRUISE IN THE WEST INDIES.
Cuban Telegraphy--The 'New York Trigger'--News from Porto Rico--A
Day in Porto Rico--Don Felipe--A Mail Agent--Coasting--Aguadilla--Mayagueez--Santo
Domingo--Sight-seeing--Telegraphic News
CHAPTER XXIV.
A STATE OF SIEGE IN CUBA.
A Cuban Newspaper Office--Local Intelligence--The Cuban Revolution--Spanish
Volunteers--A Recruit--With Bimba--'Los Insurrectos'--At
a Fire--Cuban Firemen
CHAPTER XXV.
CUBAN WARFARE.
Spanish Soldiers--A Sally--Prisoners of War--'Los Voluntarios'--A
Triumphant Return--Danger!--Cuban Emigrants
CHAPTER XXVI.
HAVANA CIGARETTES.
PAGE
Cigars--The Etiquette of Smoking--A Cigarette Manufactory--The
Courteous Proprietor--The Visitors' Book--Cigarette Rolling
CHAPTER XXVII.
A MULATTO GIRL.
An Obscure Birth--Bondage--A Bad Master--A Good Godfather--A
Cuban Christening--Anomaly of Slavery--A White Lover--Rivals--An
Important Event
CHAPTER XXVIII.
A MULATTO GIRL (_continued_).
The Slave Trade--Ermina and her Lover--Panics--'Los Insurrectos'
v. 'Los Voluntarios'--A Wounded Patriot--Spanish Law and Cuban
Law--The 'Mambi's'--A Promise--An Alarm--All's Well that
ends Well
CHAPTER XXIX.
A CUBAN WEDDING.
Open Engagements--A Marriage Ceremony--A Wedding Breakfast--The
Newly Married Couple
CHAPTER XXX.
CUBANS IN NEW YORK.
The Morro Castle again--Summer and Winter--Cuban Refugees--Filibusters--'Los
Laborantes' of New York and their Work--American
Sympathisers
THE
PEARL OF THE ANTILLES
CHAPTER I.
A CUBAN WELCOME.
Our Reception at Santiago de Cuba--Spanish Law--A Commemorative
Feast--Cuban Courtesy--Coffee-House Politeness.
My companion and brother-artist, Nicasio Rodriguez y Boldu, is a native
of Cuba, and as he has signified his intention to visit his birthplace
in the West Indies, we bid 'addio' to fair Florence, where for three
years we have dwelt together and followed our profession, and, embarking
in a French steamer at St. Nazaire, we set sail for the Pearl of the
Antilles.
Our official reception at Santiago de Cuba is far from cordial. Before
we land, the Spanish authorities meet us on board, and, after a careful
inspection of our passports, present each of us with what they call a
'permit of disembarcation,' for which we have to pay sixteen reales
'fuertes.' Having, so to speak, purchased 'tickets of admission' to the
Spanish colony, and having also deposited our luggage in the
'cloak-room' of the establishment--which in this instance is represented
by a custom-house--we naturally expect to be favoured with a 'bill' of
tropical performances. No such bill is, however, presented to us; but as
a substitute, we obtain full particulars by application, within a month
after our arrival, to the chief of police. From this functionary we
learn that our 'tickets of admission' are available only for one
quarter's sojourn in the island, and that if we desire to remain for a
longer period, an official 'season-ticket' must be procured. The
authorised programme of the 'Loyal and Ever-faithful Isle' is divided
into a great many Acts. One of these acts announces that 'no foreigner
is allowed to reside more than three months in the island without
procuring first a carta de domicilio (habitation license), which he may
obtain by a petition supported by the consul of his nation.' The carta
de domicilio will enable the foreigner in question to dwell unmolested
in this strangely governed country for a period not exceeding five
years; but he may not leave the island, neither may he remove to another
town, without a pass from a Capitan de Partido, a Celador, or some such
official.
The chief of police moreover tells us that, conformably with another act
or article in his code, the 'applicant' must represent himself as a
Catholic; that he must take the oaths of fidelity and vassalage before
the governor, and that within the prescribed five years 'a foreigner
must be either naturalised, or he must leave the country.'
Yet another act proclaims that during the first five years of his
residence, 'the said foreigner may not carry on nor may he possess a
shop, a warehouse, or become a captain of a vessel. He may, however,
have a share in a company or firm of Spaniards.'
But the strangest mandate of all is that which denies to 'any inhabitant
whatsoever' the privilege of moving from one house to another 'without
giving notice of such removal to the chief of police!'
Thus much for our welcome by the authorities of Cuba!
The Cubans themselves are, however, more obsequious. Long before we have
anchored in the Cuban bay, the news of our arrival has reached the ears
of my companion's friends, who hasten to greet us from little canoes
with white awnings to ward off the rays of the scorching sun. Having
landed, and satisfied the authorities, we are escorted by a number of
these friends to our future residence, which we had decided should be an
hotel. But my partner's friends will not hear of our lodging at a
strange place, and one of their number, who claims close relationship
with Nicasio, succeeds in persuading us both to become his guests. He
accordingly hails his two-wheeled quitrin, and drives us to his
dwelling. The rest of our friends follow on foot, and are invited by our
host, Don Benigno, to partake of the sumptuous banquet which has been
prepared in honour of Nicasio's return to his native country. Several
ladies are present, and with these in light muslin dresses--the
gentlemen in their suits of white drill--the long table with its white
covering--the spacious dining-hall with its white-washed walls--and the
glare of the sun which pours in from numerous windows and open
doors--the scene is enlivening, to say the least of it; while a singular
contrast is supplied by the sombre appearance of the slaves who serve
round the condiments.
Of course my companion is lionised and made much of on this occasion,
and his friend--whom everybody addresses, on account of his nationality,
as 'el Caballero Ingles,' is treated with every show of attention. Being
fresh from Europe we are both examined and cross-examined upon the
questions of news, and to satisfy all demands requires no inconsiderable
amount of oratory. Healths are drunk and responded to by some of the
company, and Don Benigno's nephew, Tunicu, delivers some appropriate
verses of his own composition, which he has dedicated to his kinsman
Nicasio.
It is not the custom in this country for the ladies to retire after a
meal, and leave their lords to their cups and conversation, but
everybody remains seated until black coffee and big Havana cigars are
handed, the cloth has been removed, and our host's baby--a girl ten
months old attired in nature's vestments--has been placed for general
inspection and approval in the centre of the festive board.
When everybody has sufficiently devoured with his or her eyes this kind
of human dessert, Don Benigno's lady--Dona Mercedes--proposes to adjourn
for music and dancing to the reception-room--an apartment which is
little better than a continuation of the dining-hall; the boundary line
between the two chambers being defined by a narrow slip of wall.
The musical entertainments begin with a performance on the piano by a
sun-burnt young lady attired in a low-necked, short-sleeved dress, who
accompanies another young lady who essays a patriotic song commencing:
Cuba, Cuba! mi patria querida,
in which she assures her audience, in Spanish verse, that there is no
place like Cuba, and no country more fertile and picturesque than the
Pearl of the Antilles. This favourite ditty is called a Melopea, or
words without a melody--the words being simply 'spoken,' and closely
followed on the piano by lively music.
This song and another having been disposed of, partners are selected and
the Danza Criolla--a popular Cuban valse--is for the rest of the
afternoon (for it is still broad daylight) performed. The guests then
depart; and after a little conversation with Don Benigno and his family,
Nicasio and I are conducted by a black domestic to our dormitories. Here
we indulge in a siesta, and otherwise refresh ourselves till the hour of
dinner.
Those of Nicasio's friends who have been foiled in their attempt to
secure us for their guests, console themselves by exhibiting their
hospitality in other ways. We are overwhelmed with invitations to pass
the temporada, or season, at their estates in the country, and so
numerous are these invitations that, were we to accept them all, two
years would scarcely suffice for the fulfilment of our engagements.
During the first weeks of our residence in Santiago, the hospitality
which we receive in various ways is sometimes overpowering. Wherever we
may wander some unknown friend has anticipated our arrival, and secretly
provided for our wants. We turn into a cafe for refreshments, and when
we offer to pay for what we have ordered, the waiter refuses to take our
coin, while he assures us that our repast has already been paid for!
Subsequently we discover that the proprietors of all the restaurants and
cafes in the town have been instructed by some mysterious person or
persons not to accept payment from 'Don Nicasio Rodriguez y Boldu and
his English companion,' but to 'put it down to the account.' Whenever we
visit the theatre, the same pecuniary objections are raised; and upon
one occasion, the haberdasher to whom we apply for a dozen shirts a la
creole actually refuses to favour us with a bill!
These attentions are, however, short-lived, for my partner, after
permitting them to exist for a reasonable length of time, publicly gives
out that unless this overpowering hospitality altogether ceases, he and
el Caballero Ingles will remove to a less demonstrative town. This
warning takes effect, but still the tendency to 'stand treat'--which is
a special weakness in Cuba--manifests itself in other ways.
I go into a cafe where some creoles--utter strangers to me--are grouped
around one of the marble tables. If I happen to be accompanied by a
lady, every man rises and salutes us. If alone, I am offered a seat and
refreshments; for under no circumstances, and in no locality, does a
Cuban eat and drink without first inviting his neighbours to partake of
his fare. 'Usted gusta?' (Will you partake of this?) or 'Gusta usted
tomar algo?' (Won't you take something?) is a Cuban's grace before meat.
These, attentions are not, however, confined to feeding. They are
adapted to everything that a Cuban possesses. If I admire any article or
individual belonging to a Cuban--no matter whether the object of my
admiration be a watch-guard--a handsome cane--a horse--a gun--a slave,
or a pretty child--I am invariably assured that it is mine (Es para
usted), or that it is my servant (Un servidor de usted). When I ask a
Cuban where he lives, he promptly replies: 'At your house,' in
such-and-such a street, number so-and-so; and whenever such an
individual favours me with a letter, I always find the document
addressed: 'From your house' (Su casa).
In short, I never know what politeness means, nor what extensive West
Indian possessions are at my disposal, till I live amidst the luxuries
of the Pearl of the Antilles!