When we turned in, the yacht was speeding along with a gentle breeze
towards Swanage. The Needle light showed brightly astern, and the two
lights on Hurst Point were brought almost into one, rather more on our
quarter. Oliver and I wanted to keep watch, but papa laughed at us, and
said we had much better sleep soundly at night, and be wide awake during
the day; and that if anything occurred he would have us called.
Though Oliver and I said we would get up once or twice, to show that we
were good sailors, we did not, but slept as soundly as tops until
daylight streamed through the small skylight overhead into our berths.
We had now learned not to knock our skulls against the beams; and both
of us turning out slipped into our clothes, and thanked God for having
kept us safely during the night. On going on deck, what was our
surprise to find the Needle Rocks still in sight, with a high point of
land on our starboard beam, which Paul Truck told us was Christchurch
Head.
It was a perfect calm, not a ripple played over the surface of the
water, the sails scarcely giving even a flap. Not far off lay the
Dolphin, equally motionless. The sun had not yet risen, but the
atmosphere was perfectly clear, and we could see objects to a great
distance. To the west of the head we observed a tower, which Truck told
us was that of the Priory; and from thence to Hurst we observed a line
of cliffs of considerable height, with several villages on their summit.
We got out our mackerel lines, hoping to catch some fish for breakfast;
but there was not way enough on the vessel to give the bait play, and
none would bite. Paul walked up and down whistling for a breeze; but it
did not come a bit the faster for that, as you may suppose. Sailors
have a notion--derived from some heathen custom--that by whistling the
spirit of the wind will be propitiated. This is not surprising, when we
remember that people on shore have a still greater number of foolish
notions derived from the same source.
When papa came on deck, he told us that Sir Harry Burrard Neale, who
commanded the San Firenzo, was at school at Christchurch before he went
to sea, that on one occasion, when playing a game of "follow my leader,"
he, being the leader, mounted to the top of the tower, and managed to
scramble down again outside, few, if any, of the boys daring to follow
him.
The whole of the coast along which we were now sailing was in the days
of restrictive duties the scene of numberless smuggling transactions.
The smugglers were a bold, daring race--one part accomplished seamen;
the other, though accustomed to go afloat, possessors of small farms and
holdings on shore. The goods, either spirits, tobacco, or silks, were
brought across generally in large powerful luggers, many of them in
war-time strongly armed; and when interfered with by the king's ships
they often fought desperately, and managed to get away. The spot on
which a cargo was to be landed was fixed on beforehand. Generally,
several were chosen, so that should the Coastguard be on the watch near
one, the smugglers, warned by signals from the shore, might run to
another. There, a party of armed men, numbering some hundreds, would be
ready to receive them. As soon as the goods were landed, they were
carried up the cliffs on men's shoulders, and placed in light carts and
wagons, which drove off with a mounted escort, who seldom failed to give
battle to the Revenue men if an attempt was made to stop them. Often
severe fighting took place, and--except when a strong force of military
were brought down upon them--the smugglers generally made their escape.
The goods were either stowed away in secret places or farm-houses in the
neighbourhood, or carried off to London, where they were handed over to
the wealthy firms which supplied the means for the trade.
In later years the smuggling vessels were smaller and unarmed, the
smugglers trusting to their cunning for success. Sometimes only large
boats or galleys were employed, which pulled across the Channel, timing
themselves so as to reach the English coast some time after dark. If a
Revenue cutter was seen approaching, the casks of spirits were loaded
with stones, and being thrown overboard, were sunk, the smuggler having
first taken the bearings of the land, so as to be able to return to the
spot and drag for them. Sometimes the Revenue cutter saw what was done,
and performed that operation instead of the smuggler, the officers and
crew thus obtaining a rich prize at slight cost. So enormous was the
profit, that if two or three cargoes out of seven were run, the
smugglers were content.
Smuggling of any sort is of course illegal. The Government puts duties
on commodities for the good of the State, which duties must be paid, and
the smuggler is cheating not only the Government but his countrymen; yet
many people formerly did not see it in its true light, and even some
gentlemen, blind to its dishonourable character, encouraged the
smugglers by buying their goods. Papa said that he remembered in his
boyish days a person of excellent position, knowing that a cargo was to
be run near his house, having invited the Revenue officers to dinner,
made them all tipsy, and not letting them go until he was informed that
the cargo was safe on shore. He received a portion as a reward for the
service he had rendered. The greatest knaves, however, were the
merchants whose capital bought the goods and whose warehouses were
supplied by them. At one time the greater portion of the population of
the sea-board of Hampshire and Dorsetshire were engaged more or less in
the trade.
While we were at breakfast we heard the mainsail give a loud flap, and
soon afterwards a pleasant rippling sound told us that the yacht was
moving through the water. In a short time we were close in with the
shore, just off Bournemouth, a watering-place which has gained
considerable popularity during the last few years.
We clearly saw a large number of houses and villas, with two churches
standing on the side of the hill, backed by dark pine groves. A few
years ago there were only a few cottages on a sandbank, a small stream,
and a decoy pond in the neighbourhood. By keeping out of the tide we
made some way, and now standing to the southward on the port tack we
came off Poole Harbour, looking up which we could see the woods and a
house on Branksea Island, and the tower of what was once a castle
erected for the defence of the place.
We were told that this island was purchased several years ago by a
colonel who married a rich heiress. The place was believed to contain
valuable clay and other productions; and a firm of bankers, having
begged the colonel to become one of their directors, allowed him to draw
whatever amount he chose. Believing himself to be possessed of
unbounded wealth, he built a superb house and laid out the grounds in
splendid style, giving all sorts of expensive entertainments. At length
the bank broke, the bubble burst, and the unhappy man was reduced to the
extreme of penury, while numbers of unfortunate people who had invested
their money in the bank were ruined.
We did not sail up the harbour; but Paul Truck told us that the town is
of considerable size, and that it sends out a large number of trading
vessels.
Passing two high white rocks rising out of the water, called Old Harry
and his Wife, we stood on into Swanage Bay, where we brought-up just off
the little town. The boat was lowered, and we pulled to the end of the
wooden pier, on which we landed; although Oliver said we could not call
it landing, seeing that it was not land. However, we soon got on to the
shore. As we looked about we agreed that it was one of the prettiest
little places we had been in.
To the left was a bright lawn, with trees here and there, and villas
dotted about. Some houses extend along the shore to the right, while an
old-fashioned looking street runs up the hill. We observed large
quantities of slabs of stone, which are quarried from the hills in the
neighbourhood. The ground beyond the town is completely burrowed, like
a huge rabbit-warren, and near the mouth of each quarry are huts and
sheds, where the stone, which is brought up in the rough, is worked into
shape. The men, instead of being blackened like coal-miners, are
covered with white dust.
This portion of the country is called the Isle of Purbeck, although it
is in reality a peninsula. It is bounded on the north by Poole Harbour
and the river which passes Wareham, while the sea is on the two other
sides; and a small river, called Luxford Lake, rises from some hills not
far from the south shore, so that the place is almost surrounded by
water.
About six miles off is Corfe Castle, on a hill almost in the centre of
Purbeck Island. It is a picturesque ruin, and full of interesting
associations. It was here that Edward, the dupe of the wily Dunstan,
was murdered in the year 979, at the instigation of Elfrida, the widow
of Edgar, and Edward's mother-in-law, who wished to have her own son,
poor "Ethelred the Unready," upon the throne. A far more interesting
event connected with it was the defence made by Lady Bankes, the wife of
the owner, in 1643, against the Parliamentary forces. It must have been
in those days a very strong place, for Lady Bankes, with her daughter
and her maid-servants, assisted by five soldiers, successfully defended
the middle ward against the attack of one of the storming divisions, the
whole defensive force not exceeding eighty men, unprovided with cannon.
It would probably have fallen, however, had not Lord Carnarvon raised
the siege.
Near Swanage also, in the middle of an open heath, is the celebrated
Aggie Stone, or holy stone, though it is more generally known at present
as the Devil's Nightcap. It is a long stone poised on a single point.
We agreed that it was something like a giant mushroom. The country
people say it was thrown from the Isle of Wight, with the intention of
destroying Corfe Castle, but that, falling short, it descended where we
found it, on the top of the hill, eighty or ninety feet high. We could
not decide whether it was placed here by art or Nature, for similar
stones exist in other places where water and the atmosphere have cleared
away the surrounding earth. Papa was of opinion that it was formed by
natural causes.
Getting under weigh from Swanage, we stood round Peveril Point and
Durlestone Head. The wind being off shore, we kept close in with the
coast, which consists of high cliffs full of fossils, we were told. As
we were passing Saint Alban's, or Saint Aldhelm's Head, we got out our
mackerel lines. We had half a dozen each, about forty fathoms long. To
each line were fastened eight or ten snoods: a snood is a short line
with a hook at the end. At first we baited with pieces of white linen,
as the mackerel is a greedy fish, and will bite at any glittering object
in the water.
"Two lines overboard will be enough, or they will be fouling each
other," observed Truck.
Oliver took charge of one, I of the other. They had not been in the
water two minutes when Oliver cried out, "Hurrah, I've hooked a fish!"
He was hauling in his line, when two more were seen skipping along on
the surface, glittering in the sunlight. At the same time I felt
several tugs at my line, and on hauling it in I found that I had four
fish on--long, elegantly shaped fish they were, with blue grey backs and
white bellies. In half an hour we had caught two dozen--more than
enough for all hands for supper and breakfast.
The next morning, the wind having been very light, we ran into a little
harbour of rare beauty called Lulworth Cove. The entrance is very
narrow, with rugged abrupt cliffs rising far above the mast-head; and
when we were once in we appeared to be in a perfect basin, the sides
consisting of high white walls towering to the sky, with cottages in an
opening on one side; while the sandy bottom could almost be seen through
the tranquil water, clear as crystal. The cliffs consist of Portland
stone. The strata in some places have a curious appearance, resembling
huge twisted trees. In one side are caves of various sizes, and here
also fossils in great numbers are found. Landing, we walked about two
miles to Lulworth Castle, belonging to Mr Edward Weld, the son of the
owner of the celebrated yachts the Lulworth and Alarm. The castle is a
square-shaped building, with a tower at each corner; it has long, narrow
windows, and is handsomely fitted up. Both James the First and Charles
the Second at different times inhabited it, as did several later
sovereigns down to William the Fourth. It formerly belonged to Cardinal
Weld, who left it to his brother, the late owner.
Though interested with what we saw on shore, we were always glad to get
on board and enjoy the open sea. Sailing on, we in a short time reached
Weymouth Roads, and hove-to off the mouth of the river Wey, on both
sides of which the town is built, with a fine esplanade extending along
the shore for a considerable distance. Good old King George the Third
used to reside here in a house built by his brother, the Duke of
Gloucester, now turned into the "Gloucester Hotel." One object in his
coming was to sail on board a frigate commanded by his favourite
captain, Sir Harry Neale.
The king frequently wanted to go much further out to sea than was
considered prudent. On such occasions the captain used to propose
either whist or chess. As soon as His Majesty was observed to be
absorbed in the game, the ship was put about and headed back towards the
shore. When the king got tired of playing, and was about to return on
deck, the ship's head was put off shore again. He either did not find
out the trick played him, or was well aware that it was done for his
advantage, and said nothing. The king and Sir Harry often played chess
together, when the king, who played very badly, was generally beaten.
Sometimes His Majesty played with some of the courtiers, on which
occasions he was nearly always successful; when, however, the courtiers
played with Sir Harry, they beat him. The king observing this,
remarked, one day, with a smile:
"It does seem very odd, when I play with Sir Harry he beats me; when
Lord So-and-So plays with him, he gets the worst of it; but when Lord
So-and-So plays with me, I gain the day. Very strange--very strange."
On one occasion the frigate was going from Portsmouth to Weymouth, when
she was hailed by a boat which had come off from the shore. The captain
hove-to, and an old Scotch couple came up the side. On the object of
their visit being enquired, they stated that they had come all the way
from Scotland to look for their son, who was on board a man-of-war; and
that they had been at Portsmouth, and had searched for him in vain at a
number of other seaports.
On asking the name, "David Campbell," was the answer. Sir Harry
enquired whether such a man was on board. "Yes," was the reply. Davy
Campbell being called, a fine youth made his appearance, who was
immediately recognised by the old couple, and received a fond embrace.
The captain carried them to Weymouth, where the king, hearing their
story, spoke to them kindly, and made them a handsome present; while Sir
Harry promised to look after their boy; and they went home rejoicing in
the success of their efforts to see him once more. I hope he promised
to write to them in future, and to let them know of his welfare, and
that he got back to Scotland again to see them before they died.
The king used to speak to the officers and men in the kindest way, and
frequently to call up the young midshipmen and give them fatherly
advice. Papa's father was a midshipman on board, so that he had heard a
great deal about the king and Queen Charlotte.
One day Sir Harry, who had months before received a present of bottled
green peas, recollecting them, ordered them to be prepared for dinner.
On the queen being helped, Sir Harry, who had forgotten when green peas
were in season, observed to Her Majesty, "These peas have been in bottle
a whole year."
"So I did think," answered the queen, pressing one of them with her
fork, and sending it flying out of her plate and hitting His Majesty on
the nose. They were almost as hard as swan-shot. In those days the way
of preserving vegetables was not so well understood as at present.
The king was often sadly ill-treated, according to his own account, by
those in authority, and would complain amusingly about trifles. One
grievance was that he never had the satisfaction of wearing soft linen,
for that as soon as his shirts had worn smooth they were taken away, and
their places supplied with new harsh ones. So that, after all,
sovereigns are not more free from the discomforts of life than are other
people!
We heard these anecdotes as we were standing towards Portland Harbour,
formed by a magnificent breakwater of granite, which runs out from the
shore to the east, and then circles round with an opening about the
centre. It was built to form a harbour of refuge, as no other exists
along the coast which can be entered at all times between the Needles
and Plymouth.
We were struck by the enormous blocks of stone of which it is
constructed. They were all quarried from the Isle of Portland, which
forms one side of the harbour, by convicts who are confined in a large
stone prison at the top of the hill. Both on the breakwater and on
shore are strong stone forts for the defence of the harbour, in which,
in time of war, would also be stationed some heavy ironclads; so that a
large squadron alone would venture to annoy the shipping within.
The yachts brought-up, and we went on shore to walk along the breakwater
and to inspect some of the fortifications. Near us were two enormous
ironclads; and as we pulled by them we could not help remarking what
magnificent-looking craft they appeared, though Uncle Tom said that he
would just as soon go round the world in the Dolphin as he would in one
of those huge monsters.
A railway is laid along the top of the breakwater to carry stones and
guns to the further end. Papa told us that some years ago, while it was
in the course of construction, he came to see it; that as he was looking
towards the end he perceived an engine coming along. He stepped on one
side to avoid it, when, as it drew near, he observed the driver making a
signal to him. He had just time to spring on to a wooden platform at
the edge, when another engine, coming from the opposite direction,
passed over the spot on which he had been standing. In an instant he
would have been crushed to death. "How grateful did I feel to God that
I had been thus mercifully preserved!" he said.
At the outer end of the breakwater there is a lighthouse, with a single
fixed red light, so that it cannot be mistaken for any other of the
neighbouring lights. At the end of the south pier-head of Weymouth
Harbour is also a single red fixed light; but it is far away to the
northward of the breakwater light, and cannot be seen at any great
distance.
The Portland Breakwater is indeed a magnificent work. The plans were
designed by Mr Rendel, and the estimated cost was six hundred thousand
pounds. The first stone was laid by Prince Albert, in July, 1849. The
whole length is nearly a mile and a half. It first runs out from the
Isle of Portland for 1,800 feet, when it is finished by a circular head
of solid masonry. Then, for about four hundred feet, there is an
opening through which vessels may enter or run to sea in case of
necessity. Then comes another circular head similar to the first, from
which the principal part of the breakwater extends in the same straight
line for about three hundred feet, and then curves round to the north
for 5,400 feet. It was formed--in the first instance--by extending
stages in the direction required, on which rails were laid down to
support the stone-wagons pushed by locomotives to the outer end. The
wagons, on reaching their destination, were tilted up, and the stone
dropped down to the bottom. Thus the work was continued gradually until
the outer end was reached. The stones after they were thrown down were
placed in the required position by divers, who worked with crowbars. A
dangerous employment it must have been. A man employed on the
breakwater who accompanied us told us that on one occasion the air-pipe
burst, and that, although the diver immediately gave the signal, when he
was hauled up he was nearly dead. Another poor fellow did not answer
the tug, which a man in a boat above gave every half-minute. When he
was hauled in it was found that the water had run under the joints of
his helmet and drowned him. There were five lines of rail laid down,
each carrying trucks pushed by locomotives. We were told that 2,500
tons of stone were by this means dropped every day into the ocean; and
though thus actively working, it was long before the artificial rock
appeared above the surface.
Sometimes several weeks passed, load after load being dropped in, before
the mass was of sufficient size to rise above the water. After having
been left some time to consolidate, the summit was capped by blocks of
hewn stone, rising from low-tide mark to many feet above that of
high-water, so that the sea during the fiercest gale could not force its
way over it. The piles to support the stage were what are called screw
piles; they were ninety feet in length, and soaked in creosote to
preserve them, the weight of each being about seven tons. One of the
most curious operations was that of forcing the creosote into the piles.
It was done by placing them in an iron cylinder one hundred feet in
length, and six feet in diameter. Out of this the air was first pumped,
and then the creosote was pumped in.
All the stones were brought from the neighbouring hill, where they were
quarried by about eight hundred convicts. The trucks descended from the
hill down an incline, the full trucks dragging up the empties by means
of ropes and blocks. Upwards of five million tons of stone were thus
employed.
While visiting the prison we heard a number of anecdotes about the
convicts. Notwithstanding all the vigilance of the warders and guards,
several have contrived to make their escape. On a dark night, during
exceedingly thick weather, a daring fellow managed to scale the walls
and drop down outside unperceived. He at once made his way to the
shore, where he in vain searched for a boat. Being no sailor, had he
found one, he would have been unable to manage her. He knew that should
he attempt to make his way overland he would, to a certainty, be
re-taken. Finding a piece of wreck, with some broken oars, and other
drift-wood, and a coil of rope, he contrived to put together a raft, on
which seating himself, he shoved off, expecting to be picked up by some
passing vessel. Instead of this, he was--fortunately for himself--
discovered by the active coastguardmen, and brought back to prison. Had
he succeeded in getting to a distance, in all probability he would have
been drowned or starved to death.
Climbing to the top of the hill, we obtained a view to the northward of
the crescent-shaped line of shingle, ten miles long, called Chesil Bank,
which joins Portland to the main land. At the Portland end the pebbles
are of the size of a hen's egg, gradually diminishing to that of a bean
at the other extremity. This enabled smugglers to ascertain on the
darkest night the part of the shore they had reached. The west side of
the bank is known as Dead Man's Bay, from the number of persons who have
perished there. The most disastrous event occurred in 1794, when a
fleet of transports, under convoy of Admiral Christian, bound out for
the West Indies, stranded in the bay, and one thousand persons were
drowned. In this century, the Abergavenny and Alexander (Indiamen) were
driven on this treacherous shore, and upwards of two hundred persons
perished; and as late as 1838, the Columbine was wrecked on the bank,
and many of her crew lost. In those days there were no lifeboats to
hasten to the rescue of the helpless seamen.
Passing amid quarries, we observed enormous square blocks of stone hewn
out and ready to be transported to the shore by carts, with long teams
of horses harnessed--often nine together. In the upper layer of the
quarries was discovered a fossil pine-tree, upwards of thirty feet in
length, and a foot in diameter, with two or three branches.
Next morning we and the Dolphin again got under weigh, and the wind
being off shore stood close round the Bill of Portland, having the
Shambles light-vessel, which has a single fixed light, on our port beam.
The Shambles is a large shoal, so called from the number of vessels
lost on it with all hands. A fine Indiaman was wrecked there many years
ago, coming home full of passengers, not one of whom was saved. In
another day they expected to be reunited to their friends, from whom
they had long been absent. How sad it seems! We who were sailing over
the comparatively tranquil sea could scarcely believe it possible that
so many of our fellow-creatures had thus perished within sight of land.
In former years many ships were lost in consequence of the masters not
knowing their exact position. In the present day the coast is much
better lighted than formerly. The character of every part of the bottom
of the Channel is well-known, so that a ship may grope her way up with
the lead going, the mud, sand, or shells, which are brought up sticking
to the grease in a little hollow at the end of the lead, showing
whereabouts she is. Then the quadrants, chronometers, and other
nautical instruments are of superior construction, and their use better
understood; and, lastly, compasses indicate more truly the direction in
which the ship is sailing. Not that compasses themselves are at fault,
but that--as papa explained to us--every compass of a ship is influenced
by the iron on board the vessel. Now, before a ship sails she is swung
round in all directions, so that the exact amount of the influence
exercised by the iron is ascertained, and allowance made accordingly.
There are also a large number of careful pilots on the look-out for
ships coming up Channel. However, after a long course of thick weather
and contrary winds, the most experienced master is unable to be certain
of his true position; and, notwithstanding all the precautions taken,
ships are sometimes carried out of their course, or caught on a lee
shore, and driven on the rocks and wrecked. I have been speaking of
sailing vessels. Steamers have an advantage; but even they, from the
effects of currents and tides, sometimes get out of their course, or an
accident happens to the machinery, or a gale comes on and drives them,
in spite of all efforts of paddle or screw, on shore.
We kept inside the Race, which in stormy weather, with the wind meeting
the tide, is excessively dangerous. The seas rise up as if some power
is moving the water from beneath, and letting it suddenly fall down
again. When it thus falls down on the deck of a small vessel, all
steerage-way being lost, she is drifted along, utterly helpless, by the
tide, and if heavily laden, possibly sent to the bottom. Vessels,
however, when passing the Bill of Portland, keep outside the Race, or,
when the wind is off the land, close to the shore, as we were doing.
When they are caught by a current in a calm, they are drifted through
it.
The men at the lighthouses have on several occasions seen a vessel
suddenly disappear beneath the foaming water, which, leaping up, had
carried her to the bottom exactly as if she had been dragged down by the
tentacula of some marine monster.
Near the end of the Bill are two white towers, of different heights, one
thirty-two and the other eighty-six feet high. They are the
lighthouses, and in each of them is a bright fixed light. They stand
over fifteen hundred feet apart, and both lights can be seen at a great
distance,--the highest being visible four miles further off than the
lowest.
Close to the summit of the cliffs stand two castles, overlooking the
wide expanse of the Channel. One, surrounded by embattled walls, is
Pennsylvania Castle. It was built by the grandson of the great William
Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania in America, and was so called after
it. Its large windows show that it was not intended as a fortification,
and, of course, a few shot from a modern gun would knock it to pieces.
On the further side of a dip or valley, on the summit of a point of rock
commanding a magnificent view along the coast, stands a far more ancient
edifice, a tower in the shape of a pentagon, commonly said to have been
built by William Rufus, and called Bow and Arrow Castle from the small
circular apertures pierced in the walls for shooting arrows. There are
large brackets above them, from which were suspended planks for the
protection of the garrison when hurling their missiles at the foe.
We talked a good deal about the Quaker Penn, who, being the son of the
renowned Admiral Sir William Penn, sacrificed all the advantages which
his social position afforded him for the sake of the gospel, and with
the hope of spreading its benign truths among the heathen of the New
World, and of affording refuge to those driven forth from their native
land by persecution.
On getting round the Bill of Portland we saw ahead the sandy cliff of
Bridport, two hundred feet in height, with dark and rugged eminences
beyond, the Golden Cap of brighter hue rising above them. We now stood
across West Bay, towards Torquay. Finding the tide against us, we kept
close enough in shore to be able to distinguish places with our glasses.
The first harbour off which we came was Bridport, a town of
considerable size. The port is formed by two piers, with a basin
further in. A number of vessels for the Newfoundland fishers are fitted
out here. About a couple of miles from the entrance is the Pollock
Shoal; but our craft drew so little water that we might have passed over
it without danger of striking.
To the west of Bridport we saw Charmouth, with its lovely wooded
heights, and next to it Lyme Regis, which has a breakwater running out
of it called the Cobb, within which there is shelter for vessels. Once
upon a time it was a place of considerable trade. During Cromwell's
days the town was strongly Republican, and held out gallantly against
Prince Maurice, who came to invest it, even the women putting on red
cloaks and men's hats, to look like soldiers. It was here also that the
unfortunate Duke of Monmouth landed, to try and gain a kingdom, but ere
long to lose his head.
Still further west, we came off the white and lofty cliff known as Beer
Head. Near to it is Beer, a fishing-village possessing "an ancient and
fish-like smell." The inhabitants are primitive in their habits, and
were at one time as daring smugglers as any on the coast. As the wind
fell we dropped anchor, and pulled on shore, to visit a curious cavern,
partly natural and partly a stone quarry. We carried with us all the
lanterns we could muster from both vessels. We could not at first see
the mouth, owing to a cloud produced by the different temperature of the
outer air and that from within. The entrance is under a rocky archway,
over which hung in rich festoons wreaths of green foliage. For some
distance we had to grope our way through a narrow low passage, with the
water dripping down on our heads. At last we found ourselves in a huge
cavern supported by substantial pillars. In the more ancient part, from
which stone was quarried by picks, the sides and roof were perfectly
smooth. In one place there was a dome, with four well-formed arches,
not unlike the interior of a cathedral crypt. From hence we were told
the stone was hewn for the building of Exeter Cathedral. The modern
portions of the cavern have been excavated by gunpowder, which has of
course torn off huge masses without any regard to symmetry.
When we returned on board, Paul Truck told us that in days of yore a
smuggler bold--Jack Rattenbury by name--took possession of the cavern,
in which to store his goods after he had safely landed them from his
lugger. For some time he carried on his trade undiscovered, for, being
a cautious man, he dug a vault, in which his cargoes of brandy and bales
of lace and silks were concealed, covering the floor over again with
heaps of stone. The Revenue officers, however, at length got scent of
Jack's doings, and came in strong force, hoping to capture him and take
possession of his property. But he had received timely notice, and
nothing could be found within the cavern.
Of course they did not fail to pay many a subsequent visit. Once more
Jack--hearing that they were coming when his vault was full of goods,
and that they had an inkling of the true state of the case--managed to
carry off a considerable portion. The remainder fell into their hands
as the reward of their perseverance. Shortly afterwards Jack himself
was captured by the Revenue officers, who got possession of all his
contraband goods. In the larder of his house was a fat goose, which
they were anxious to possess, in order to have a feast to commemorate
their success, but the goose not being contraband, they dared not take
possession of it, so they offered to purchase the bird at a large price.
Jack and his wife, however, were firm. Nothing would induce them to
sell the goose, though money might be useful to Jack, who was to be
carried off to prison; and the officers were fain to be content with the
bread and cheese and cider with which he supplied them. Jack used to
tell the story with great glee, observing that the goose was well
stuffed with point lace, every yard of which was worth ten times as much
as the bird.
The smuggler sometimes turned the tables on his pursuers. A daring
Revenue officer having suddenly come upon him, Jack and his companions
seized the unfortunate man, and kept him fast bound until they had
removed all their merchandise. Though supposed to be unusually
successful, and looked upon as the prince of smugglers in those parts,
Jack did not manage to save money, and ultimately died a poor man. Papa
said that such a clever, ingenious fellow must have made his fortune in
any honest business.
We were becalmed off Sidmouth while attempting to reach Exmouth, at the
mouth of the river Exe, some way up which stands the large town of
Exeter. Though some distance from the shore, we could hear plainly the
rumble of the trains as they passed along the railway, the water being a
great conductor of sound. We had a lantern with a bright light hanging
from the forestay, to show our position to any passing steamer which
might otherwise have run us down. This was the only danger to be
apprehended, for no sailing vessel could have come near us, and at the
distance we were from the land there was no risk of being drifted on the
rocks.
Uncle Tom hailed us, and we went on board the Dolphin to supper. Of
course we heard many anecdotes about that part of the country. Uncle
Tom, who had spent some time at Sidmouth, described it to us. The
surrounding scenery is highly picturesque. It was while residing here,
for the sake of his health, that the Duke of Kent died. In the same
house the Queen spent much of her childhood.
At a village near Beer, where the women are employed in manufacturing
lace, Her Majesty's wedding dress was made. The country people
throughout the district are employed in the manufacture of lace.
On the shore hereabouts, all sorts of marine curiosities can be picked
up, such as petrified wood, madrepores, jaspers, agates, and a variety
of shells.
Near Sidmouth is a very interesting house, which is thrown open
occasionally to public view by the proprietor. In the garden are glass
houses, in which oranges, vines, pines, and the most beautiful orchids
grow, with pineries, and ferneries, and formerly there were aviaries,
and a menagerie of curious animals, and in the cottage are preserved a
number of rare things.
Further inland is Budleigh Salterton, so named after its buddle, or
stream, which running through the village makes its way slowly down to
the sea. Near here is a homestead called Hayes Barton, at which Sir
Walter Raleigh was born. The house remains much as it was in his days,
and in the parlour the wide hearth is still to be seen at which he used
to sit and smoke his pipe. It was here that the servant, coming in--
never having before seen his master so employed--threw a tankard of
water over Sir Walter, fancying that he was on fire.
As we returned on board the Lively, we observed two white fixed lights,
which marked the entrance to Teignmouth Harbour, showing us clearly our
position.
When the morning broke we were still off the ruddy cliffs which line the
shore. A person first seeing this part of the coast would consider that
Albion was a misnomer for England, as no walls of white chalk are to be
seen rising from the blue ocean. As far as the eye can reach, various
tints of red prevail.
A light breeze carried us into Babbicombe Bay, and we were again
becalmed off some curiously-shaped rocks, which lie off a point called
Bob's Nose. It was rather tantalising not to be able to get in to see
more of the scenery of that most picturesque bay. We could, however,
distinguish the houses among the rich groves on the top of the cliffs,
in which were openings, with pretty cottages perched on projecting
ledges, while others were built close down to the water. Two yachts
were at anchor in the bay, which we agreed must be a capital yachting
place, as a vessel can get in or out at all times, and it is sheltered
from every wind except from the east. We had our mackerel lines out
whenever the vessel was moving through the water. Though, as before, we
at first baited with pieces of white linen, yet as soon as a mackerel
was caught, we put a bit of it on to our hooks, at which its relatives
eagerly bit. The ends of the lines were fastened either to the backstay
or the taffrail, allowing them to pass over our finger, so that the
moment a mackerel took the bait we could feel it. We then hauled in,
the fish appearing at the surface skipping and jumping like a mass of
silver. We caught a dozen fine fish before breakfast, and they were
immediately frizzing away on the fire. As we could not move along, we
amused ourselves with our spy-glasses, observing what was going forward
on shore.
While thus employed a party came off in a couple of boats to picnic on
one of the green islands off Bob's Nose. The first thing most of the
people did, as soon as they had deposited their baskets on a
comparatively level space at the bottom, was to try and climb up to the
summit, which is of considerable height. The sides are steep, and
present a surface of soft green grass. We saw one fat old lady,
evidently ambitious of vying with her younger companions, making an
attempt to reach the top with the aid of a boatman and one of the
gentlemen of the party. Up she went some distance, when she stopped,
though not for long, and panted for breath; then on again she proceeded,
though not so quickly. But the task was clearly beyond her power.
Again and again she stopped. In vain her two supporters togged. We saw
her making gestures, as if imploring to be let alone. At length down
she plumped on the turf, signing to her friends to leave her. For some
time she appeared to be tolerably comfortable, though we saw her fanning
herself, and puffing and blowing, while her companions quickly went on
and joined the rest of the party, who had gained the summit. It would
have been prudent in her to remain quiet, but unwisely she moved
onwards.
"She's gathering way!" exclaimed Uncle Tom; and, sure enough, down she
began to slide, at first very slowly, but as an impetus was gained, she
went faster and faster. In vain she screamed for help. The soft grass
afforded no hold to the frantic grasps she made at it. Her cries
reached us. Her companions must have been very hard of hearing, for it
was not until she had slid two-thirds of the way down that any of them
seemed to attend to her, and then the whole party set off rushing down
the hill-side, at the bottom of which they stood ready to receive her.
Though much frightened, she was not, I think, much hurt.
Tom and Jack came on board to luncheon, and we agreed to row in to
Torquay, and to allow the yachts to follow; but just as we were shoving
off a breeze sprang up, so we jumped on board again, and, rounding Bob's
Nose, we were able with a few tacks to make our way into the harbour.
We brought-up in the inner harbour, but the Dolphin remained at anchor
outside.
Torquay is one of the prettiest seaside places in England. From the
water we observed the houses on the hill-sides, with beautiful villas
scattered about in all directions amid groves of green trees. The shore
along the north side of the bay is indented by numerous little bays
called coves; the water is deep and clear, so that they are much
frequented by bathers. One is appropriated to ladies, another to
gentlemen. At the end of the last century Torquay consisted only of a
few fishermen's cottages scattered about the beach.
We took an interesting walk on shore, which we greatly enjoyed. We
visited a curious natural cavern called Kent's Cavern. The scenery
round the entrance is thickly-wooded and wild in the extreme, probably
just as it has been for centuries. We were told that it runs for
upwards of six hundred feet into the bowels of the earth, and has
numerous branches and ramifications. We had brought a guide and lights
with us, so that we could explore it without risk. We could see,
imbedded in the rock, bones of animals which at some remote period made
it their abode; and naturalists, who dig them out, say that they belong
to tribes which are only found in tropical climates. Our guide showed
us that there are three distinct layers or floors of earth in the
cavern. In the topmost are found beads and various instruments
manufactured by the Saxons, as well as the bones of foxes and badgers.
In the next strata are the bones of elephants, of rhinoceroses, of lions
and hyenas, of wolves and elks. In the third layer are the bones of
bears, which must have been of great size, as also of a nondescript
animal said to be between a lion and a bear. Curiously enough, judging
from the remains found in them, the branches on one side indicate the
favourite habitation of elephants, while on the other, packs of wolves
were in the habit of taking up their abode. Probably the more savage
beasts of prey dragged in the carcases of the creatures they had killed;
and they in their turn dying, left their bones mingled with the others.
We were told that flint knives were found along with the bones of
animals which for ages have become extinct, pointing to a period when
the country must have been inhabited by races of men as uncivilised as
the South Sea Islanders. Possibly it might have been at a period
antecedent to the flood, when our island was joined to the Continent.
The next morning we got under weigh, and stood across to Brixham, on the
south side of Torbay. There is a wide beach all the way along the whole
sweep of the bay, except near Brixham, where the cliffs again rise, and
extend to the southern point called Bury Head. Brixham is one of the
largest fishing-villages on the coast. The inhabitants own a number of
vessels. At few places is a greater quantity of shells to be picked up
of all descriptions, of which we collected a number in a few minutes,
when we pulled ashore. Some of the shells were four or five inches
long. The occupant has the power of working itself rapidly into the
soft sand, to get out of harm's way. We saw some, but they suddenly
popped down, and were far out of our reach when we attempted to dig them
up.
Brixham will over be memorable as the place where the Prince of Orange
landed. We looked at the stone on which he placed his foot when he
first stepped on shore. It was a glorious day for liberty when his
fleet of seventy ships, carrying fourteen thousand men, stood in the
bay. The inhabitants were inclined to look askance at the invaders when
they landed, recollecting the horrors they had endured at the hands of
Judge Jeffreys after the death of Monmouth; but when they saw the banner
of the prince unfurled, bearing the inscription of "God and the
Protestant religion," and he addressed them, saying, with a Dutch
accent, "Mein people, mein goot people! Be not afraid! I am come for
your goot, and for all your goots;" and when they saw the gallant array
by which he was surrounded, their courage revived, and loud acclamations
rent the air. It was the dawn of a new era; and England owes a deep
debt of gratitude to the memory of the gallant prince by whose means our
civil and religious liberties have been secured on a basis which can
never be undermined unless by our own folly and supineness, although
treacherous enemies within are insidiously making the attempt.
Papa made these remarks, and we all heartily agreed with him. Torbay
affords excellent anchorage except when the wind is to the east, towards
which direction it is perfectly open; and fearful accidents have
occurred when gales have suddenly sprung up from that quarter. Some
years ago upwards of sixty vessels--some of large size--had stood into
the bay during a strong westerly wind. During the night it suddenly
veered round to the east, and blew a tremendous gale, the rain pouring
in torrents. Having brought-up close to one another, they were unable
to beat out, and some breaking loose drove against others. One large
vessel drove against the pier with a tremendous crash, which awakened
the inhabitants from their slumbers. The brave fishermen--knowing what
had occurred--rushed out to render assistance, and were the means of
saving many of the crew. A little boy was thrown by a seaman from the
ship, and caught in the arms of a fisherman. Several vessels went down
at their anchors, others were cast on shore. When morning broke many
others were seen to founder with all hands, there being no possibility
of rendering their crews any assistance. The whole shore was strewn
with dead bodies thrown up by the foaming seas.