OVER THE CONTINENTAL DIVIDE
A messenger was sent back to Captain Clark, detailing what had been
discovered, and giving such instructions as would best enable him to
bring up the boats. It is now Captain Clark's turn to bear testimony to
the spirit of the men:--
"June 15th.... Proceeded with great difficulty, in consequence of the
increased rapidity of the current. The channel is constantly obstructed
by rocks and dangerous rapids. During the whole progress, the men are
in the water holding the canoes, and walking on sharp rocks and round
stones, which cut their feet or cause them to fall. Rattlesnakes are so
numerous that the men are constantly on their guard against being
bitten by them; yet they bear the fatigues with the most undiminished
cheerfulness."
The severest labor was necessary in making a portage of the falls. The
remaining periogue was abandoned, the canoes only being carried on. To
accomplish this, a large cottonwood tree was felled, its trunk being
cut into short sections to serve as wheels for improvised carriages;
the mast of the periogue, cut into lengths, being used as axles. Before
these carriages could be utilized, it was necessary for the men to
carry the canoes and baggage upon their shoulders to the level plains
above the canyon walls, where Captain Clark had marked out with stakes
the easiest path for a portage. This was a trying labor; and the
portage itself was not less laborious. The journal says:--
"Here [on the plains above the river] they all repaired their
moccasins, and put on double soles to protect them from the
prickly-pear, and from the sharp points of earth which have been formed
by the trampling of the buffalo during the late rains. This of itself
is enough to render the portage disagreeable to one who has no burden;
but as the men are loaded as heavily as their strength will permit, the
crossing is really painful. Some are limping with the soreness of their
feet; others are scarcely able to stand for more than a few minutes,
from the heat and fatigue. They are all obliged to halt and rest
frequently; at almost every stopping-place they fall, and most of them
are asleep in an instant; yet no one complains, and they go on with
great cheerfulness."
Notwithstanding this hardship, Lewis's journal entry of June 25th has
this fine bit:--
"Such as were able to shake a foot amused themselves in dancing on the
green to the music of the violin, which Cruzatte plays extremely well."
Captain Lewis had brought along in the baggage a steel skeleton or
framework for a boat, thirty-six feet in length, which he had planned
to use in shallow water. It was to be completed by stretching over the
steel ribs a covering of skins, making the whole water-tight by any
means that might be at hand. This was the place for the experiment.
Much time was spent in collecting and curing skins, which, when fitted
to the frame, were smeared with a composition of tallow, beeswax, and
charcoal. This failed, however. As soon as the mixture dried, it fell
away in flakes, and the vessel was entirely worthless. But Lewis wrote
that "the boat in every other rispect completely answers my most
sanguine expectations"! Then the men were employed for some time in
making "dugout" canoes from cottonwood logs,--a weary labor,
considering the tools they had. Not until July 15th was the long
interruption ended, and the journey resumed.
July 25th Captain Clark, who was in advance of the main party,
discovered the three forks of the Missouri, which were named the
Jefferson, Madison, and Gallatin rivers. By the westernmost of these,
the Jefferson, they proceeded, keeping a careful lookout for Indians.
"July 27th [Mr. Biddle's edition of the journals]. We are now very
anxious to see the Snake Indians. After advancing for several hundred
miles into this wild and mountainous country, we may soon expect that
the game will abandon us. With no information of the route, we may be
unable to find a passage across the mountains when we reach the head of
the river--at least, such a pass as will lead us to the Columbia. Even
are we so fortunate as to find a branch of that river, the timber which
we have hitherto seen in these mountains does not promise us any fit to
make canoes, so that our chief dependence is on meeting some tribe from
whom we may procure horses. Our consolation is that this southwest
branch can scarcely head with any other river than the Columbia; and if
any nation of Indians can live in the mountains we are able to endure
as much as they can, and have even better means of procuring
subsistence."
By the first days of August this fear for the scarcity of game had
become a reality; they were getting beyond the summer range of deer and
buffalo, which had been their chief reliance. Through their long season
of toil they had been plentifully fed; but they were now to know the
pains of hunger, and the ills which follow upon a meagre diet. The
hunters were daily reporting increasingly bad luck in the chase; some
days would yield nothing; upon other days the camp would heartily
welcome an owl, an eagle, or a bag of insignificant small birds of any
sort, or even a wolf--anything that had flesh on its bones.
But these deprivations did not one whit abate the zeal for discovery.
About this time they found the Jefferson River to be formed by three
minor streams, to which they gave the names of Philosophy,
Philanthropy, and Wisdom rivers, "in commemoration of those cardinal
virtues which have so eminently marked that deservedly selibrated
character." It is a pity to record that this complimentary intention
was thwarted by time; but Philosophy is now known as Willow Creek,
Wisdom is now the Big Hole, and Philanthropy bears the hard name of
Stinking Water.
Since leaving Fort Mandan, in the preceding April, they had seen no
Indians. They were now somewhat reassured by Sacajawea, the "Bird
Woman," who said that they were nearing the site of her old home with
the Snakes. She was as anxious as they for a meeting with her people,
which she told them must soon occur. But anxiety increased as the days
passed, and on the 9th of August Captain Lewis, accompanied by several
of the men, set out in advance of the rest, "with a resolution to meet
some nation of Indians before they returned, however long they might be
separated from the party."
Three days later the stream, along which their route had lain for so
long, was shrunken to such a width that one of the men was able to
stand with his feet upon opposite banks; and in that posture he thanked
God that he had lived to bestride the Missouri. Within a little time
they drank from the icy spring that gave the rivulet its birth. They
then stood upon the crest of the great Continental Divide, on the
boundary between the present States of Montana and Idaho. They had run
the mighty Missouri to its lair!
As if that were not satisfaction enough for one day, they went forward
for three fourths of a mile, and there "reached a handsome, bold creek
of cold, clear water, running to the westward." Stooping, they drank of
the waters of the Lemhi River, one of the upper branches of the
Columbia.
On the following day, as they were tracing the course of this stream,
they observed two women, a man, and some dogs, stationed upon the
summit of a hill at the distance of a mile. Captain Lewis advanced,
unarmed, displaying a flag. The women retreated at once; and the man,
after waiting until Lewis had approached to within a hundred paces,
also disappeared in the thick brush. After following the trail for a
mile, they came suddenly upon three Indian women. One of these made her
escape; but the others, an old dame and a child, seated themselves upon
the ground and bowed their heads, as though expecting to be put to
death forthwith. Captain Lewis advanced, took the older woman by the
hand and raised her to her feet, at the same time displaying the white
skin of his arm,--for exposure had tanned his face and hands as dark as
those of the natives themselves. He then gave them some trinkets, and
the other woman being recalled, he painted the faces of the three with
vermilion, an act understood by all Indians as signifying pacific
intentions. While he was thus engaged, sixty mounted Shoshone warriors
galloped up, armed and voicing their war-cry, thinking to do battle
with Minnetaree foes, for whom they had mistaken the whites. They were
overjoyed upon discovering the identity of their visitors, saluted them
heartily, smoked with them the pipe of peace, and offered such
entertainment as they had. They were without food, excepting some
indifferent cakes made from service-berries and choke-cherries, dried
in the sun.
To secure the friendly regard of these people, Captain Lewis tried to
induce some of them to return with him to the point where he was to
rejoin Captain Clark and the others, saying that the main party was
bringing merchandise for trade; and he was at last successful in
getting a goodly escort.
When he met with the men of the main party, they were still toiling
heavily up the narrow channel of the Missouri, dragging the canoes.
Sacajawea at once recognized the members of her tribe. A woman of the
band ran forward to meet her, and they embraced with signs of
extravagant joy, for they had been playmates in childhood.
"While Sacajawea was renewing among the women the friendships of former
days," says the journal, "Captain Clark went on, and was received by
Captain Lewis and the chief, who, after the first embraces and
salutations were over, conducted him to a sort of circular tent or
shade of willows. Here he was seated on a white robe, and the chief
immediately tied in his hair six small shells resembling pearls, an
ornament highly valued by these people, who procure them in the course
of trade from the seacoast. The moccasins of the whole party were then
taken off, and after much ceremony the smoking began. After this the
conference was to be opened. Glad of an opportunity of being able to
converse more intelligibly, they sent for Sacajawea, who came into the
tent, sat down, and was beginning to interpret, when in the person of
Cameawait (the chief) she recognized her brother. She instantly jumped
up and ran and embraced him, throwing over him her blanket, and weeping
profusely. The chief was himself moved, though not in the same degree.
After some conversation between them, she resumed her seat and
attempted to interpret for us; but her new situation seemed to
overpower her, and she was frequently interrupted by tears."