As we entered the gate we saw white-robed servants everywhere, each

with a sober face and a dignified bearing, waiting to be of use. My

name was announced and two servants stepped out from the crowd, clothed

from head to feet in white sackcloth, one presenting his arm to help me

through the court, as though I were a bound-footed woman, and the other

led the way. We were taken by a roundabout path, through numerous

courts and passages, the front being reserved for the male guests, and

were finally ushered into a room filled with white-robed women

servants, who with one accord bent their knee in a low courtesy.

We were there met by the first and third Princesses, daughters of the

Dowager who had just passed away. They were dressed in white, their

hair being put up in the Manchu fashion. Instead of the jewels and

bright flowers, however, it was crossed and recrossed with bands of

white folded sackcloth. As these two ladies were married daughters, and

had left this home, their sackcloth was not so coarse as that of the

daughters-in-law and granddaughters who dwelt in the palace. It was

they who received the guests and conducted them into the room where the

mourners were kneeling.

As the white door screen was raised I saw two rows of white-robed

figures kneeling on the floor, and as I entered they all bent forward

and touched their head to the ground, giving forth as they did it a

low, wailing chant.

Not knowing their customs I went up and stooped over, speaking first to

the Princess and then to the ladies as best I could. I afterwards

watched the other lady visitors and saw that they put their right hand

up near their head as our soldiers salute, and courtesied to the

Princess, her daughter-in-law and her eldest daughter. They then went

over to a little table on which was a silver sacrificial set,

consisting of a wine tankard, a great bowl, and a number of tiny cups

holding but two tablespoonfuls. They took the cup in its little saucer,

and, facing the beautiful canopied catafalque where the Dowager

Princess was lying in state, they raised the cup as high as their head

three times, emptying and refilling it each time. The mourners

prostrated themselves and gave forth a mournful wail each time the cup

was poured, after which the visitor arose and came over to where we

were, and the ceremony was over.

The third daughter of the late Dowager seemed to regard me as her

special friend and guest, and insisted on my coming over to a white

curtain that separated us from the view of the gentlemen, and from

there I watched the proceedings of princes and officials who went

through a similar ceremony. There was this difference with them,

however, as they entered through the great canopied court, they were

conducted by white-robed servants directly to the altar, and there

kneeling, they made their obeisance to the spirit of the departed,

after which they went into the room where the Prince and the other male

descendants of the dead Dowager were kneeling and prostrating

themselves.

There was a heavy yellow curtain over the door that led into the

sacrificial hall, and when the servants from without announced a

visitor, this curtain was drawn aside, and as the guest and a flood of

light entered, the mourners began their wailing which they continued

until he had departed. These visitors remained but a moment, while the

ladies who were there were all near relatives, and were dressed either

entirely or partially in sackcloth.

The room in which these ladies knelt was draped in white. The cushions

were all covered with white, and all porcelain and other decorations

had been removed. The floor was covered with a heavy rope matting, on

which the ladies knelt--all except the Princess, for whom was prepared

a small dark blue felt cushion. The Princess knelt at the northwest

corner of the room, directly in front of the curtain which separated

them from the sacrificial hall. Several of the very near male relatives

entered and gave the low Manchu courtesy to the Princess, the son's

wife, and the eldest daughter, though none of the other kneeling ladies

were recognized. They left immediately without, so far as I noticed,

raising their eyes.

The Prince, his sons and the other mourners in the men's room were

clothed in white fur, and the servants too, who stood in the

sacrificial hall, and at intervals along the way towards the hall, wore

white fur coats instead of sackcloth.

To the left of the Princess there knelt in succession all the secondary

wives of Prince Su, and if I mistake not there were five of these

concubines. Behind the Princess knelt her son's wife--the future

Princess Su, and on her left, the daughters and granddaughters of the

Prince knelt in succession. The Princess and secondary princesses had

bands of sackcloth wound around their heads, though their hair hung

down their backs in two long braids, and as I had never seen these

princesses except when clothed in beautifully embroidered satin

garments, with hair put up in elaborate coiffures, decked with jewels

and flowers, and faces painted and powdered in the proper Manchu

fashion, it was not easy to recognize them in these white-robed,

yellow-faced women, with hair hanging down their backs.

The grandson's wife and granddaughters, on the other hand, had their

hair combed, but the long hairpin was of silver instead of jade or

gold, and instead of being decorated with jewels and flowers, and a red

cord, it was crossed and recrossed with bands of folded sackcloth an

inch and a half in width. It was neat and very effective--the black

hair and white cloth making a pretty contrast to the Western eye,

though it would probably not be so considered by the Chinese.

After I had watched them for a few moments I said to the princess who

accompanied me:

"I must not intrude upon your time longer; you have been very kind to

allow me to witness all these interesting customs."

"Oh, but you must not go now," she insisted; "you must remain and see

the arrival of the priests, and the burning of the paper houses, goods,

chattels, and images on the great street. I want you to understand all

our customs, and this is the greatest and most interesting day of the

funeral ceremonies."

I urged that I ought not to intrude myself upon them at this time.

"No, no," she said, "you must not say that. It is not intrusion; you

must stay and dine with us this evening."

When I still insisted upon going she said that if I went they would

feel that I did not care for them, and she was so persistent that I

consented to remain if the maid might be sent home to the children,

which they at once arranged for.

In the interval between the arrival of male guests, the ladies took me

out into a large canopied court to see the decorations, and into the

sacrificial hall. These ceremonies were all conducted in the house and

court which the Dowager Princess had occupied, and where I had often

gone to see her when she wanted to thank me for some medical attention

I had given her children or grandchildren.

As we passed through the great gate, I noticed that the court was

covered with a mat pavilion making a room about one hundred and fifty

feet square, lighted by great squares of glass near the top, and

decorated with banners of rich brocade silks or satins, of sober

colours, blue, gray or white, on which were texts extolling the virtues

of the late Dowager or her family. These were the gifts of friends, who

had been coming and would continue to come for days if not weeks.

At the north end as one came in at the gate was a gallery running the

whole length of the northern court, fitted up with special hangings

which separated it into different compartments. Many elegant banners

and decorations gave it a striking effect. This was the place where the

priests, who had not yet arrived, were to say their prayers day and

night until the funeral ceremonies were over.

Directly in front of the catafalque, in the gallery, there was a table

on which I afterwards saw the priests place a silver vessel which the

head priest carried, and the others regarded with much solemnity.

From the gateway leading into the sacrificial hall the floor of the

court had been raised even with the door of the house and the gate, a

height of about five feet, and forty feet wide, and was covered with

the same kind of rope matting that was on the floors. On the canopied

verandas there were stacks of cakes, incense, fruit and money. These

were the most novel sights I have ever seen in China. They were ten or

twelve feet high. They were a very pretty sight, and it required some

scrutiny to discover that they were made of cakes and fruit. How they

were able to build them thus, tier upon tier, and prevent their falling

when they were touched is beyond my comprehension. What magic there is

in it I do not know.

As one entered the door of the sacrificial hall, towering above

everything else, was the great catafalque, draped in cloth of gold, and

in front of it were stacks of these sacrificial cakes. Near them there

was a table on which there were great white, square candles, five

inches or more in diameter, the four sides of which were stamped with

figures of fairies and immortals. On this table there were also various

savoury dishes, together with cakes and fruit, prepared to feed the

spirit of the dead. In front of this table again there was another

about a foot high on which were placed the sacrificial wine vessels,

and before which the guests knelt. As we entered I saw the gentlemen

kneeling to the left, while the ladies, separated from them by white

curtains, were kneeling to the right.

After we had seen the various customs without, I was taken into the

dining-room, where I sat down with the young Princess and her two

aunts, daughters of the Dowager. They were very kind and polite, and

did all in their power to make me feel at home. We were attended by

white-robed eunuchs, who knelt when they spoke to the Princess. There

was such a lot of them.

"How many servants do you use ordinarily?" I asked the eldest daughter.

"About four hundred," she replied.

I thought of the task of robing four hundred servants in new white

sackcloth, and attending to all the other things that I had seen, in

the forty-eight hours since the death of the Dowager Princess. Even the

bread, instead of being dotted with red as it is ordinarily, was dotted

with black!

As we were finishing our supper we heard the horns of the priests and

went to see them arrive. Prince Su, and the other male members of the

family, went out to the door to receive them, but we remained within.

They first went to the gallery, then the head priest came down into the

sacrificial hall and made nine prostrations before the catafalque,

without, however, pouring or offering wine. After each third

prostration he stood up and raised his clasped hands to a level with

his eyes. They then began their weird music, standing on the two sides

of the raised platform between the gate and the house, thus allowing a

passageway between them for the guests.

The Princess told me that they were about to form a procession to go to

the great street. I therefore took my leave in order that I might

precede them and see the procession arrive, and witness the burning of

the presents for the spirit.

When I arrived on the great street I there beheld a paper cart and

horses which were intended to transport the spirit to the eastern

heaven. There was a sedan chair for her use after her arrival, numerous

servants, money, silk, and a beautiful, big house for her to dwell in,

all made of paper. I had not long to wait for the procession, which was

headed by the priests playing mournful, wailing music on large and

small horns and drums. The priests were followed by the mourners and

their friends. When they arrived at the place of the burning, the

mourners prostrated themselves upon white cushions before the paper

furnishings amid the shrieks of the instruments, the wailing of the

hired mourners, and the petitions of the priests for the spirits to

assist the departed on her way.

While this was going on, fire was applied to various parts of the paper

pile, and in a moment a great flame sprang up into the air--a flame

that could be seen from miles around, and in less time than it takes to

tell it the whole was a heap of glowing ashes, the mourners had

departed, and the little street children were stirring it up with long

sticks.

The first three days after death, the spirit is supposed to visit the

different temples, going, as it were, from official court to official

court receiving judgment, and cards of merit or demerit to take with

it, for the deeds done in the body. On the third day it returns to say

farewell to the home, and then leaves for its long journey, and all

this paper furniture is sent on ahead.

They continue forty-nine days of prayers by the priests, alternating

three days by the Buddhists, three by the Lamas, and three by the

Taoists, after which the Buddhists take their turn again. Everything

else remains much as I have described it. The family, servants,

everybody in mourning, and all business put aside to make way for this

ceremony of mourning, mourning, mourning, when they ought to be

rejoicing, for the poor old Princess had been a paralytic for years and

was far better out of her misery.

The Princess frequently sent her cart for me during these days. Once

when I was going through the court where there were vast quantities of

things to be burned for the spirit, all made of paper, I noticed some

that were so natural that I was unable to distinguish between them and

the real things. Especially was this true of the furniture and flowers

like that which had been in her apartments. There were great ebony

chairs with fantastically marked marble seats, cabinets, and all the

furniture necessary for her use. Among these things I noticed on the

table a pack of cards and a set of dice, of which she had been very

fond, and a chair like the one in which the eunuchs had carried the

crippled old Princess about the court, and I said to the young Princess

who accompanied me:

"You do not think your grandmother will require these things in the

spirit world, do you?"

"Perhaps not," she replied, "but she enjoyed her cards and dice, and

the chair was such a necessity, that, whether she needs them or not, it

is a comfort to us to get and send her everything she liked while she

lived, and it helps us bear our sorrows."

XIX

Chinese Princes and Officials

In any estimate of the forces which lead and control public opinion in

China, everywhere from the knot of peasants in the hamlet to the

highest officers of state and the Emperor himself, the literati, or

educated class, must be given a prominent position. They form an

immense body, increased each year by the government examinations. They

are at the head of the social order. Every civil officer in the empire

must be chosen from their number. They constitute the basis of an

elaborate system of civil service, well equipped with checks and

balances which, if corrected and brought into touch with modern life

and thought, would easily command the admiration of the world.--Chester

Holcomb in "The Real Chinese Question."

XIX

CHINESE PRINCES AND OFFICIALS

One day while the head eunuch from the palace of one of the leading

princes in Peking was sitting in my study he said:

"It is drawing near to the New Year. Do you celebrate the New Year in

your honourable country?"

"Yes," I replied, "though not quite the same as you do here."

"Do you fire off crackers?"

"Yes, in the matter of firecrackers, we celebrate very much the same as

you do."

"And do you settle up all your debts as we do here?"

"I am afraid we do not. That is not a part of our New Year celebration."

"Our Prince is going to take on two more concubines this New Year," he

volunteered.

"Ah, indeed, I thought he had three concubines already."

"So he does, but he is entitled to five."

"I should think it would make trouble in a family for one man to have

so many women," I ventured.

He waved his hand in that peculiar way the Chinese have of saying,

don't mention it, as he answered:

"That is a difficult matter to discuss. Naturally if this woman sees

the Prince talking to that one, this one is going to eat vinegar,"

which gives us a glimpse of some of the domestic difficulties in

Chinese high life. However it is a fact worth remembering that the

Manchu prince does not receive his full stipend from the government

until he has five concubines, each of whom is the mother of a son.

The leading princes of the new regime are Ching, Su, and Pu-lun. Prince

Ching has been the leader of the Manchus ever since the downfall of

Prince Kung. He has held almost every office it was in the power of the

Empress Dowager to give, "though disliked by the Emperor." He was made

president of the Tsung-li Yamen in 1884, and from that time until the

present has never been degraded, or in any way lost the imperial

favour. He is small in stature, has none of the elements of the great

man that characterized Li Hung-chang and Chang Chih-tung, or Prince

Kung, but he has always been characterized by that diplomacy which has

kept him one of the most useful officials in close connection with the

Empress Dowager. It is to his credit moreover that the legations were

preserved from the Boxers in the siege of 1900.

Prince Su is the only one of the eight hereditary princes who holds any

office that brings him into intimate contact with the foreigners.

During the Boxer siege he gave his palace for the use of the native

Christians, and at the close was made collector of the customs duties

(octoroi) at the city gates. Never had there been any one in charge of

this post who turned in as large proportion of the total collections as

he. This excited the jealousy of the other officials, and they said to

each other: "If Prince Su is allowed to hold this position for any

length of time there will never be anything in it for any one else."

They therefore sought for a ground of accusation, and they found it, in

the eyes of the conservatives, in the fact that he rode in a foreign

carriage, built himself a house after the foreign style of

architecture, furnished it with foreign furniture, employed an

Englishman to teach his boys, and as we have seen opened a school for

the women and girls of his family. He therefore lost his position, but

it is to the credit of Prince Chun, the new Regent, and his progressive

policy, that Prince Su has been made chief of the naval department, of

which Prince Ching is only an adviser.

The most important person among either princes or officials that has

been connected with the new regime is Yuan Shih-kai. He was born in the

province of Honan, that province south of the Yellow River which is

almost annually flooded by that great muddy stream which is called

"China's Sorrow." As a boy he was a diligent student of the Chinese

classics and of such foreign books as had been translated into the

Chinese language, but he has never studied a foreign tongue nor visited

a foreign country. Here then rests the first element of his

greatness--that without any knowledge of foreign language, foreign law,

foreign literature, science of government, or the history of progress

and of civilization, he has occupied the highest and most responsible

positions in the gift of the empire, has steered the ship of state on a

straight course between the shoals of conservatism on the one hand and

radical reform on the other until he has brought her near to the

harbour of a safe progressive policy.

He has always been what the Chinese call the tu-ti or pupil of Li

Hung-chang, and it may be that it was from him he learned his

statecraft. Certain it is that he always basked in the favour of the

great Viceroy, and it may be that he had more or less influence with

him in his earlier appointments, for he rose rapidly and in spite of

all other officials.

On his return from Korea he was made a judge. He was then put in charge

of the army of the metropolitan province, and with the assistance of

German officers he succeeded in drilling 12,500 troops after the

European fashion.

It was about this time that the Emperor conceived the plan of

instituting and carrying out one of the most stupendous reforms that

has ever been undertaken in human government--that of transforming four

thousand years of conservatism of four hundred millions of people in

the short space of a few months.

Given: A people who cannot make a nail, to build a railroad.

Given: A people who dare not plow a deep furrow for fear of disturbing

the spirits of the place, to open gold, silver, iron and coal mines.

Given: A people who in 4,000 years did not have the genius to develop a

decent high school, to open a university in the capital of every

province.

These are three of the score or more of equally difficult problems that

the Emperor undertook to solve in twice as many days. In order to the

solution of these problems there was organized in Peking a Reform Party

of hot-headed, radical young scholars not one of whom has ever turned

out to be a statesman. They were brilliant young men, many of them, but

they so lost their heads in their enthusiasm for reform that they

forgot that their government was in the hands of the same old

conservative leaders under whom it had been for forty centuries.

They introduced into the palace as the private adviser of the Emperor,

Kang Yu-wei, as we have already shown, to whom was thus offered one of

the greatest opportunities that was ever given to a human being--that

of being the leader in this great reform. He was hailed as a young

Confucius, but his popularity was short-lived, for he so lacked all

statesmanship as to allow the young Emperor to issue twenty-seven

edicts, disposing of twenty-seven difficult problems such as I have

given above in about twice that many days, and it is this hot-headed

and unstatesman-like young "Confucius" who now calls Yuan Shih-kai an

opportunist and a traitor because he did not enter into the following

plot.

After the Emperor had dismissed two conservative vice-presidents of a

Board, two governors of provinces, and a half dozen other useless

conservative leaders, they plotted to overthrow him by appealing to the

ambition of the Empress Dowager and induce her to dethrone him and

again assume the reins of government. They argued that "he was her

adopted son, it was she who had placed him on the throne, and she was

therefore responsible for his mistakes." They complimented her on "the

wisdom which she had manifested, and the statesmanship she had

exhibited" during the thirty years and more of her regency. To all

which she listened with a greedy ear, but still she made no move.

During this time were the Emperor and his young "Confucius" idle? By no

means. They had hatched a counterplot, and had decided that what they

could not do by moral suasion and statesmanship they would do by force,

and so they sent an order to Yuan Shih-kai, who as we have said had

drilled and was in charge of 12,500 of the best troops in the empire,

urging him to "hasten to the capital at once, place the Empress Dowager

under guard in the Summer Palace so that she may not be allowed to

interfere in the affairs of the government, and protect him in his

reform measures."

The Emperor knew that nothing could be done without the command of the

army which was largely in the hands of a great conservative friend of

the Empress Dowager (Jung Lu) the father-in-law of the present Regent.

Yuan was in charge of an army corps of 12,500 troops, but for him to

have taken them even at the command of the Emperor, without informing

his superior officer, would have meant the loss of his head at once.

The first thing then for him to do was to take this order to Jung Lu.

Yuan was in favour of reform, though he may not have approved of the

Emperor's methods. Jung Lu hastened to Prince Ching and they two sped

to the Empress Dowager in the Summer Palace where they laid the whole

matter before her. She hurried to Peking, boldly faced and denounced

the Emperor, took from him his seal of state, and confined him a

prisoner in the Winter Palace. Kang Yu-wei, the young "Confucius,"

fled, but the Empress Dowager seized his brother and five other

patriotic young reformers, and ordered them beheaded on the public

execution grounds in Peking.

Court Life in China: The Capital, Its Officials and People · 第 13 / 16 段