THE CHARACTER OF TRIMMINGS THROUGH THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY.
JAMES I.
The braiding and small slashing continued of a similar character to the
end of the Elizabethan age. The slashing now began to be treated with a
larger effect and less elaboration, but pricking and punching were still
much used for enriching surfaces. An improved style of design was
evident.
The female bodice was arranged with a long stomacher, often shaped into
curved forms at the point, and this was set with jewels or embroidery,
otherwise the bodice was decorated with braiding and jewels as in
Elizabeth's reign. The full sleeves were embellished with small slashes
(making diamond squares), puffs, or pricked and punched designs. A
turned-up cuff or ruff of pointed lace finished the wrist, braided
epaulets formed a beautiful feature of the effect, and the front of the
underskirt was decorated with a jewelled band or conventional design, as
was also the border of the overskirt. Caps of an interesting curved form
beautifully embroidered in gold and coloured silks are seen, of which I
give patterns; also loose jackets of the same work were in use when not
in full dress.
CHARLES I.
Many beautifully embroidered caps, jerkins, jackets, and shirts are seen
at this period in gold and black or coloured silks. Slashings of this
reign, though in fashion, had commenced to go out; and those retained
were of a large character, mostly from the neck or shoulder to the
breast. The favoured sleeves were cut into straps to the elbow or wrist,
and were often edged with braid, either side meeting together and lining
the forearm, the body being treated in the same way. The open-fronted
sleeve was set with buttons and loops or long braided buttonholes with
frayed or knotted ends, though these were not generally fastened. The
tight undersleeve was often set with gold or silver narrow braids down
the front and back seams, and close lines of small braids horizontally
round the arm, or vertically when the outer sleeve was treated
horizontally, this gave a beautiful counterchanged effect.
Many of the ladies' caps of this time had beautiful gold scrolls, with
flowers and birds embroidered in coloured silks, also loose jackets of
the same were in use. The bodice was banded with braids or lace on the
front and seams, and the stomacher was often of fine embroidery; set
rosettes or bows were placed at the waist. Other finishing effects of
collar or sleeve, and the button and buttonhole decorations were made
important features on both male and female sleeves, and even down the
front of the outer skirt when it was not treated with lace. Red heels to
shoes began to be worn and continued to the end of the 18th century in
marked favour.
THE COMMONWEALTH.
During this short period the character and placing of braiding was the
same as in the latter part of last reign; slashing had almost completely
gone out, except for the treatment of some ladies' sleeves cut into
bands. A very sober effect was assumed in colour schemes, besides a
plainer treatment in decoration, and a deep plain collar or a small
turn-over one was chiefly worn by the men, while the hat of the Puritan
rose to an absurd height, with a wide flat brim.
CHARLES II.
This may be named the period of ribbon trimmings, though braiding was
treated in broad lines on the short jackets and sleeves, and down the
sides of the breeches. A preference is shown for gold and silver lace,
or amongst the elite purfled silk edges; the new mode being a decoration
of groups of ribbon loops placed about the suit or dress. The notable
feature with the female dress was the gathering of drapery by means of
jewelled clasps, and groups of ribbon loops were also used, as with the
male dress. The edges of the materials were sometimes cut into scalloped
or classic forms, and a very simple voluminous character was fashion's
aim.
JAMES II AND WILLIAM AND MARY.
With the later type of long-skirted coat which began in Charles II's
reign, a heavy style of braiding and buttoning came into vogue, all the
seams of the coat besides the pockets and cuffs and fronts being
braided, which fashion continued to the end of the century. Many coats
began to be embroidered in the later reign, and waistcoats became a
special feature for the display of fine needlecraft on the fronts and
pockets, while quilting or imitations of it in various needlework
designs are often seen. In the female dress a more elaborate interest
was again taken in the stomachers and the jewelled claspings, while
lengths of soft silk gathered into long puffs often edged the outer
skirts or were used in smaller trimmings, and "classical" shapings of
the edges of materials and sleeves are often seen, also heavy bands of
rich embroidery bordered the underskirt or train.
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. JAMES I. FEMALE.
We find much the same high forms of set-up head-dress continuing in
fashion as in the later years of Elizabeth's reign; but the hair began
to take a fuller shape, rather round, done up in tight frizzled curls,
with the usual decorations of jewels, pearls, or set bows of this
period. Hats with high crowns and small straight brims, with an upright
set of small plumes, gradually assumed a larger brimmed character--often
turned up on one side. The same absurd pleated hoop, with its hanging
skirt, continued for some time (worn rather short); but we also see the
longer and very full hooped-out skirt, with an overskirt opened in the
front. The stomacher front became much enlarged during this reign, many
having shaped designs at the point. Most bodices took a very deep curved
front at the neck, and large padded sleeves narrowed at the wrist still
continued, besides the high fan collar at the back of the neck, and
large ruffs were used by many. There also appeared, later in the reign,
a stiff round collar, set high in the neck, cut off straight across
the front, and the bodice took a very low square-cut neck, with a raised
curved shape at the centre of neck. The tighter sleeve was also worn
throughout this time, with the overdress and sleeve hanging almost to
the ground, which often had a very angular cuff. A little later some
sleeves began to be gathered at intervals into puffy forms. The waist
also showed signs of shortening.
[Illustration: FIG. 58.]
[Illustration: FIG. 59.--Costumes. Period, James I.]
Shoes with rounded toes and latchets holding large rosettes were chiefly
worn, and heels of various heights are seen. Chopins, still worn on the
Continent, do not seem to have appeared here.
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. JAMES I. MALE.
The hat was of the high-crowned type, perhaps higher than in the last
reign. The brim had broadened, and feathers were placed upwards
fantastically at the back and sides of crown. Brims were often fastened
up on the right side with a jewel; otherwise a band was buckled in
front. The hair was now allowed to fall longer again, and a pointed or
square-shaped beard with a brushed-up moustache was the mode. Ruffs both
large and small surrounded the neck, and a flat fan-shaped collar
was seen in the earlier years.
[Illustration: Plate XIV.--
(_a_) Embroidered Silk Dress with Pannier. 1765-80.
(_b_) Brocade Dress and Quilted Petticoat. 1750-65.
_Pattern of bodice, p. 322._]
[Illustration: FIG. 60.--Costumes. Period James I.]
The jerkin was close fitting and the length of the waist more normal,
with less tendency to being tightened in, and not so deep in the front
point, so as to set better over the very full trunks or breeches. The
square tabs of the jerkin increased in size, and soon formed large flaps
divided into three or four, to the centre of the back. Sleeves were
fairly tight and started from slightly larger epaulets, and were usually
set at the wrist, either with a small ruff or turned-up lawn cuff, edged
with lace.
The trunks were padded in a very full shape and were much longer, just
above the knee. Also full padded-out breeches tapering to the knee or
just above, where a large tie and bow hung at the side, and full square
breeches not tied in, are also a feature of these days, usually banded
with wide braids at ends and sides. Upright pockets were made on either
side towards the front, about two inches from the side seams. They
fastened up the front in a pleated fold, many being decorated with
punched, pricked, or slashed design of a smallish character.
[Illustration: FIG. 61.--Shapes of Shoes from 1590-1650.]
Cloaks were worn longer to the knee, retaining the same shapes and
braid decoration as in the Elizabethan period, and hanging sleeves were
still worn on them, as well as on some of the jerkins.
Shoes became fuller and rounder at the toes, mostly with thick welted
soles and short heels, or none. They were fastened with a large rosette
of gold lace or ribbon on the front, and the latchets were set back to
show an open side. The top-boots were close fitting and took squarer
toes; the spur flap being rather small. Beautifully embroidered clocks
are seen on the tights and stockings of this period.
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. CHARLES I. FEMALE.
The hair was now allowed to fall in ringlets round the back and sides,
with a few flat curls on the brow, and a bow and pearls were caught in
at the sides. Short feathers may also be noted in use. A plait was often
coiled at the back after 1630.
[Illustration: Plate XV.--
(_a_) White Cloth Coat. 1775-90.
(_b_) Silk Dress. 1740-60.
(_c_) Embroidered Velvet Coat. 1755-75.]
[Illustration: FIG. 62.]
[Illustration: FIG. 63.
Collar and Bodice types. Period Charles I.]
[Illustration: FIG. 64.
Collar and Bodice types. Period Charles I to 1660.]
In the early part of this reign the ladies were wearing the long
corset-bodice, with a richly decorated stomacher which curved outwards
to set on the very full skirts; this often finished with a curved or
foliated shape at the point. Square starched collars, rounded at
the back, sometimes set up at the back of the neck or flat on the
shoulder, and ruffs were still seen round the neck with collars as well,
but they were seldom met with after 1635. A plainer, deep collar, flat,
round, or =V=-shaped at the back, coming well over the shoulders, was
caught together by a bow or ornament in front. About 1630 shorter
waisted bodices came in, with full, loose sleeves set in epaulets: the
neck shape was rounded or square. The bodices were often slashed, and
the full sleeves, cut into bands, were sometimes gathered by cross bands
from one to three times. Full plain sleeves, opened in the front seam,
were also clasped at the elbow in a like manner. Outer short sleeves
became a feature, opening in the front, showing the full under one or a
tight one; the waist became very short and its tabs larger. A waistband
fastened in the stomacher with a bow either side and bows with long gold
tags decorated the waist as in the male jerkin. The skirt decorated by a
band of ornament down the front was often tied upon the corset-bodice,
the front point being left outside. Shoes of the same shape as the male
illustrations, with very square toes, were frequent, but an oval toe,
rather pointed, is seen in many pictures, with the large lace rosettes
in front. Muffs are first noticed in these days, though they were seen
much earlier on the Continent.
[Illustration: FIG. 65.--Period 1625-1660.]
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. CHARLES I. MALE.
The hair was worn loose to the shoulders, and a small plait was
sometimes arranged on the left side, brought to the front of shoulder.
The beard was trimmed to a pointed shape, and smarter curled moustaches
were fashionable. Hats were still high in the crown, but rather lower
than with James I; the large brims were turned about in various curves,
and feathers were worn falling over the brims to the side or back.
The jerkin was high in the collar, supporting a large, square, turn-down
collar edged with pointed lace to the shoulders, or a small, plain,
turn-over collar; ruffs are very rarely seen after 1630.
[Illustration: FIG. 66.--Charles I.]
[Illustration: FIG. 67.--Period 1625-1660.]
[Illustration: FIG. 68.--Period 1625-1660.]
A rather short waist grew shorter during this reign, with much larger
tabs, or large flaps laced to the body, forming a series of bows with
long gilt tags round the waist. The body is usually decorated with
long slashes from the shoulders to the breast, or the full length, and a
long slashed opening is often seen in the back (presumably to give more
play to the sword-thrust). The sleeve is also treated in the same way to
the elbow or waist. All sleeves start from a stiff epaulet. Breeches are
both very full and fairly tight, the latter edged with a purfling of
silk or gold lace as well as the sides, the former shape tied either
above or below the knee with a large silk bow with falling ends. They
were held up by a number of hooks, fastening to a small flap with
eyelets, round the inside of the doublet (see pattern 11, p. 295), and
were buttoned down the front, the buttons being half hidden in a pleat.
The pockets were placed vertically in the front of the thigh, and were
frequently of a decorative character.
A short or long circular cloak was worn, and a coat-cloak with opened
sleeves is an interesting garment. These coverings were hung in various
ways from the shoulders by methods of tying the cords across the body.
[Illustration: FIG. 69.--Period 1625-1660.]
[Illustration: FIG. 70.--Shoe shapes. Charles I to 1700.
NOS. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 23. Charles I.
NOS. 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 25. Charles II.
NOS. 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 24, 26, 27, 28. James II and
William and Mary.]
[Illustration: Plate XVI.--
(_a_) Silk Brocade Dress. 1740-60.
(_b_) Silk Brocade Sack-back Dress. 1755-75.
_Pattern, see p. 334._
(_c_) Dress of Striped Material. 1775-85.
_Pattern, see p. 335._]
[Illustration: FIG. 71.--Boot shapes. Charles I to 1700.
NOS. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9. Charles I.
NOS. 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15. Charles II.
NOS. 16, 17, 18. James II and William and Mary.]
Shoes became very square at the toes, or blocked as in Fig. 70, No. 6.
The fronts were set with large rosettes of silk and silver or gold
lace, the heels varied much in height, that mostly favoured being a
large, low heel. A quaint fashion of shoe combined with a clog sole was
an interesting shape (see illustration of clogs, p. 106). Fairly tight
top-boots, coming well above the knee, were often turned down. Other
boots with large bell-tops, turned over or pushed down, were covered or
filled with a lace or bell-shaped stocking-top. A sash was worn round
the waist or across the body over the left shoulder (the length and
width of these is given in the description of patterns, p. 279). A broad
belt, or sword-hanger, came across the right shoulder. Gloves were
beautifully embroidered in gold, pearls, or coloured silks, the
gauntlets being from five to eight inches deep.
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. THE COMMONWEALTH. MALE AND FEMALE.
The same shapes apply to costume during the Commonwealth, though a
sterner effect was given by the choice of plain decoration and less
colour. A small or a large plain collar, and the disappearance of
slashings on the coat, and a longer skirt became noticeable. A very
high tapered hat, with stiff circular brim, was worn by the Puritans,
and little, close, black hoods were much favoured. A general reaction
from gay extravagance set in.
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. CHARLES II.
FEMALE.
The hair was set out from the head on combs with falling ringlets, and
several small flat ringlets were placed on the forehead. The back of the
hair was plaited into a knot, and pearl strings were interlaced, or
ribbon loops caught in at either side. Toward 1680 the hair was worn
tightly curled and fulled out into a round shape with a curl or two
falling on the front of the shoulders; small feathers or long feathers
were also worn. Hats were of a similar shape to those of the last reign,
with a stiffer and narrower curved brim; but the chief head-dress was a
large hood faced with another material, which latter was tied under the
chin; these mostly formed part of a cape also.
[Illustration: FIG. 72.--Period 1650-1685.]
[Illustration: Plate XVII.--
(_a_) Silk Suit. 1765-80.
(_b_) Quilted Dress. 1700-25.
(_c_) Silk-embroidered Suit. 1765-80.]
[Illustration: FIG. 73.
1, 2, 3, 4.--Back and Front of two Corset Bodices. Period Charles II.
5, 6.--Two Corsets. Period Charles II.
7, 8.--Two Bodice types. Period Charles I.]
The bodice again became much longer and of a pointed shape, but many
corset bodices took a round point, and a round neck coming well off
the shoulders became general, usually decorated with a plain wide band
of lace. Ruffs and collars were no longer seen amongst the upper
classes. Very full sleeves and large opened sleeves were tied or clasped
over full lawn ones, and at times separated from the shoulders, being
caught effectively with jewels. Groups of ribbons were placed at the
breast or point of the bodice, and the ends of sleeves or shoulders,
besides at the fronts of the outer skirt when divided, also in the
gathering of the lawn sleeves. Stomachers were not much worn, but a
drape of soft silk was caught here and there round the neck of bodice,
and large draperies were clasped to the shoulders. Loose robes and robes
shaped to the figure, opening down the front from the neck even to the
waist, with a clasp or several holding them together; these were worn
over a quilted linen corset laced in front as in the illustration, but
the bodice was often formed on a corset. Long gloves and mittens were in
use, and small muffs with ribbon loops on the front were carried.
High-heeled shoes with very long square toes were affected in imitation
of the male shoe, but most ladies now began to wear a very pointed
shoe.
[Illustration: FIG. 74.--Sleeve treatments. Period Charles II.]
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. CHARLES II.
MALE.
Long hair or wigs of long curls falling on the shoulders, a very narrow
moustache and point of beard on the chin came with this reign. Lace
collars of a smaller square or rounded shape were in use, but a fall of
lace pleated in the centre soon took its place. High-crowned hats with a
band and bow in front and a flat, waved, or curved brim, with feathers
on either side or all round, were the fashion, the crowns becoming
shorter during the reign; the fronts and sometimes the sides of the brim
are seen turned up, and so begins to form the three-cornered hat, which
remained so long a feature in history.
[Illustration: FIG. 75.--Period Charles II.]
We find with extravagant shapes a happy return of gay colours. The
high-waisted jerkins of the Charles I period were now seen without the
skirt (as very short jackets), leaving the lawn shirt to show between
this and the breeches, besides which the jackets were nearly always left
unbuttoned several inches up, some being cut away in a rounded shape and
also having short sleeves. The lower arm was covered with a full lawn
sleeve caught at two or even three distances with a loop of ribbons or
bows, and finishing with a wide lace frill; a bunch of ribbon loops was
also often seen on the right shoulder. A long circular cloak, with
turned-back fronts forming a collar in many, still retained the hanging
sleeve, and was mostly decorated with bands of heavy braid. A long
square coat also came in about 1666, buttoned right down the front, with
pockets set very low in the skirt, and large narrow cuffs opened at the
back as in Plate VIII (see p. 90).
Very full breeches were worn to just about the knee or shorter, with a
fringe of ribbon loops, and a row or several rows of the same were
arranged at the waist. A short petticoat just showed the under breeches,
many of which were turned into a doublet shape by an additional piece
looped up loosely from the knee with a silk filling; the ribbon loops at
the waist were repeated up the sides of the petticoat. Silk garters were
worn with bows on both sides of the leg, or a deep lace fall came from
the end of the breeches to the middle of the calf; a lace setting also
filled the wide top of the boots, which was worn very low, even to the
ankles. These short bell-topped boots were favoured, with high heels
and very square toes. Shoes were long and square (or duck-billed) at the
toes; and had a high narrow front to the instep, and latchets fastened
with a stiffened butterfly bow, besides, at times, a rosette lower down
on the front: red heels were in evidence. The sword-band was very wide,
and many were decorated with gold embroidery.
[Illustration: FIG. 76.--Costume types. Period Charles II.]
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. JAMES II.
FEMALE.
The hair was still worn full at the sides over a comb, as in the former
reign, with curls dropping to the shoulders, but they now began to
discard the set-out comb and the little flat curls on the forehead, the
hair being of a round shape or parted from the centre and mounted higher
and narrower on the head, in the latter part of this reign. The same
large hoods and drapes continued in use, and a high goffered head-dress
with set-out front began to appear; the same shaped bodice with round
low neck showing the shoulders, often set with a stomacher front or
jewelled in that form, and smaller decorations of ribbon loops were
still favoured. A smaller and shorter sleeve began to appear with a
turned-up cuff, and the gathered-in lawn sleeves and ruffles caught here
and there with pearls or clasps as before, besides the same light
drapery clasped about the breast front. The overskirt was now looped
back, the points being held together, giving a wide display of the
underskirt, which was heavily banded or had a jewel setting down the
front. Other train skirts, also divided in front, were bordered with
drawn silk caught at intervals into long puffs. Very small muffs were
the fashion. Shoes increased their pointed shape and rather large heels
are to be noted, but some shoes assumed a very narrow square toe; they
were either tied from small latchets with a bow, or with buckled
latchets. Longer gloves were worn, and large full cloaks with hoods or
large drapery wraps when required for outdoor wear.
[Illustration: FIG. 77.--Costume notes. Period 1670-1690.]
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. JAMES II.
MALE.
The same long wig was worn as in the last reign, but the curls were more
of a set ringlet type, and embroidered caps were worn when these were
taken off. The face was now clean shaven until the 19th century. Hats
also of the older character were retained, but the turned-up
three-cornered shape, filled with short feathers, became more settled in
fashion, and they were heavily banded with gold braid or lace on the
edge.
[Illustration: FIG. 78.--Period 1690-1700.]
A smart bow was worn crosswise over the folded lace fall at the neck.
The coat was a very long square shape to the knees, the stiff skirt
often set out over rather full breeches, which were sometimes "shorts,"
and just above the knee, the stocking being often brought up above the
knee, with a garter just below. The sleeves were short, above or below
the elbow, with a turned-up cuff, leaving the full-gathered lawn sleeve
with a lace ruffle to show at the wrist. A sash encircled the waist, and
often shut in the sword-belt, which hung from the right shoulder. The
coat had buttons from the neck to the bottom of the skirt, though the
lower buttons were seldom fastened; the sides of the skirt were opened
up about 11 inches, and also the back seam to the same height; most
seams were heavily decorated with gold, silver braid, or lace, and the
pockets were placed rather low down towards the front of the skirt, and
were sometimes set vertically.
[Illustration: Plate XVIII.--
(_a_) Brocade Bodice. 1770-85.
(_b_) Flowered Silk Dress. 1750-70.
(_c_) Silk Brocade Bodice. 1780-95.]
[Illustration: FIG. 79.--Period 1688-1702.]
Long round capes were still worn, without sleeves, and a collar turned
down about 4 inches.
Shoes of a similar shape to those of the later Charles II type were in
use, but the heels became larger and the toes not so long; the top of
the front was sometimes shaped and turned down. Heavy boots to the knee,
with large curved tops, were also in favour, as in the illustration
(Fig. 71).
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. WILLIAM AND MARY. FEMALE.
The hair was now mounted high on top and the front parted with two
curls, the rest of the hair being bound on top, or a curl was arranged
on either shoulder. A goffered frill head-dress, set on a cap, rose very
high, and a long fall of lace, or lappets, came down on either side from
the cap, or was gathered in like a small hood at the back. Bare
shoulders now began to disappear, the bodice shape coming over the
shoulder to a =V= shape enclosing a stomacher, which was sometimes tabbed
or shaped at the point. Many dresses were made in one length, caught
together at the waist with a band; the fronts of these skirts were
looped back high up, creating a pannier-like fullness at the hips, and
narrow hoops came in to set out the skirts, many of which were heavily
embroidered with gold. The Watteau-back dress started in this reign; a
very early specimen, at the Victoria and Albert Museum, is most probably
of this time (Fig. 85, A). The sleeves worn to the elbow increased in
width from the shoulder, and were set with large narrow cuffs gathered
with a jewel or bow on the front of the arm. Hoods and cloaks of the
same character as described for the last reign continued, and light
sticks were carried by the ladies. Very pointed shoes were worn, with
large high heels, the top of the front flap in some being shaped into
points. Black masks were frequently used, some having long lace falls.
Rather small muffs were still the fashion, and beautifully decorated
short aprons became a feature with the dress.
[Illustration: FIG. 80.--1688-1698.]
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. WILLIAM AND MARY. MALE.
Wigs of the same long character continued, and were parted in the centre
with a raised effect, and variously shaped caps, with turned-up fold or
brim, were worn when the wig was taken off.
The beaver or felt hat, turned up three-cornerwise, was now in general
use. It is often seen with the brims loose, or sometimes down,
especially amongst the lower classes. Both small shapes and large were
worn.
[Illustration: Plate XIX.--
(_a_) Silk Brocade Dress. 1775-85.
(_b_) Embroidered Silk Jacket. 1775-90.
_Pattern, see p. 326._
(_c_) Brocade Jacket. 1780-95.
_Cap pattern, see p. 331._
_Coat pattern, see p. 348._]
[Illustration: FIG. 81.--Period 1680-1690.]
Black ties across formal lace cravats, and long lawn cravats, edged with
lace, one end of which was sometimes caught up loosely through the
large buttonhole of the coat were worn. Waistcoats were left open well
down to the waist; some of these were nearly of the same length as the
coat, the skirt being often edged with deep gold fringe.
The coats were of much the same character as in the time of James II,
with buttons all down the front, but now it was the mode to button coats
just at the waist, allowing the waistcoat to be shown. The sleeves were
generally longer, to the middle of the forearm, and the turned-back
cuffs became very large and deep, often towards the end of the reign
taking a curved shape. The seams, fronts, and pockets were frequently
braided as before. A long square waistcoat of rich brocade or
embroidered material, about four inches shorter than the coat, was worn;
some of these had tight sleeves, which came to the wrist beneath the
outer coat-sleeve; otherwise a gathered lawn sleeve with ruffle was
worn.
Shoes and boots were practically the same as in the previous reign, with
larger high heels and a high square front, with latchets buckled or
stiffly tied, and very square toes. Top-boots of the same heavy
character continued as in Plate II (see p. 42). Stockings continued to
be worn frequently above the knee outside the breeches, with a garter
beneath, and beautifully embroidered clocks to the calf. Muffs were
carried by many men, and the gauntlets of gloves had a very angular
shape. Patches and make-up were used by the dandies, and the sword was
now carried through the side pleats on a waist-belt sometimes worn
outside the waistcoat.