FIFTEENTH CENTURY. FEMALE.
We have now arrived at the height of eccentric fashion in mediaeval
head-dress. The hornlike creations, studded with jewels, and peaks of
wondrous height, both draped with fine muslins and often completely
shutting away the hair from sight, had a supporting cap which mostly
came over ears and cheeks, and a clutch is seen on the forehead, at
times concealed by a jewel. The hair was generally allowed to fall loose
under the back drape, or a long plait is sometimes seen at the back with
the first-named head-dress. The back drape setting from the brow down
the back was well conceived to balance the high spire, but it seems to
have been discarded during the reign of Edward V, and light veil falls
were worn which often came half over the face. In Henry VII's time the
extreme fashion came in the shape of a closely-fitting curved cap,
with a fall of material over the back. The ermine-trimmed jacket was
still in favour to the middle of the last-named reign, when it was worn
low down over the hips.
[Illustration: FIG. 21.--Fifteenth century, 1st half.]
[Illustration: FIG. 22.--Middle of fifteenth century to sixteenth
century.]
[Illustration: Plate VII.--
(_a_) Herald's Coat. Embroidered Velvet and Silk. 1st half 17th
Century. Measured pattern, page 301.
(_b_) Lady's Bodice of Black Velvet. 1630-60.
_Measurement, see p. 297._
(_c_) Black Silk Jerkin. 1640-60.]
[Illustration: FIG. 23.--Fifteenth century, 1st half.]
The chief dress of this period had a =V=-shaped collar-front meeting at
the waist, mostly made in black material or fur. It was wide on the
shoulder, and seems to have been stiffened to set out; the =V= shape was
generally filled in with velvet, and a very wide band encircled the
waist; a girdle is occasionally noted. The keys' pocket and other
requisites were generally carried on the underskirt during these times.
The skirt was full and gathered to the back in a train, the gathers
often running into the bodice; a very wide border is prevalent, even to
the middle of the thigh. Tight sleeves are usual, and hanging sleeves
were worn, mostly set in a very short sleeve, which assume a puff-shape
in Henry VII's reign; long cuffs, almost covering the hand, are seen on
many sleeves.
[Illustration: FIG. 24.--Fifteenth century, 2nd half.]
[Illustration: FIG. 25.--Fifteenth century, 2nd half.]
[Illustration: Plate VIII.--(_a_) (_b_) (_c_) Three Suits. Period
Charles II.]
[Illustration: FIG. 26.--End of fifteenth century.]
Modes of opening the skirt up to the hips occasionally showed
themselves, and even the sides to the hips are seen laced. In the
earlier dress, about 1485, the neck setting of dress became very
square, and was filled with fine-drawn lawn. The square shape rises in a
curved centre before the end of this period, and a close-fitting robe
was worn with a girdle, often opened up the sides. The short upper
sleeve and full outer sleeve so much in vogue gave place to a divided
upper and lower sleeve, laced or tied with ribbon, with puffs of lawn
pulled through the openings at shoulder and elbow, and down the back of
the forearm. Slashes are now seen in most sleeves, and an Italianesque
character pervaded the fashion.
High, soft boots and shoes of a similar shape to the male description
were worn, and changed when the square-toe shoes came in.
Through this period there are many interesting details of costume to
study, while gilt tags, finishing laces, and ribbons are to be remarked
from this period.
FIFTEENTH CENTURY. MALE.
[Illustration: FIG. 27.--Fifteenth century.]
[Illustration: FIG. 28.--Fifteenth century, 1st half.]
[Illustration: FIG. 29.--Middle of fifteenth century.]
The chief shapes to mark in this century in male head-dress is the
increased height of the tall hats which rise to vie with the female
fashions. We still see a round hat with a rolled edge and long fall
over one side, besides shorter folds in the crown, both scalloped or
foliated at the edge, and this shape may be noted till about 1460. Some
of these hats were made without a crown, as in Fig. 28 (see p. 94); the
roll was decorated, as a rule, with jewelled studs. A top hat, something
like our present shape, appears, but more belled at the top and also a
padded, rolled brim. It was made in various rich materials, and often
decorated with jewels. The peak-fronted hat still continued to be
favoured till about 1480, its chief difference being a crown more
eccentric in height. Tall cylinder hats, with folded brims or no brim,
and other shapes are illustrated. The variety is so great through this
period that it is well to study the vagaries of fashion which I have
illustrated in sequence as far as possible; they were mostly used till
about the last quarter of this century, when the low-crowned flat hat
with turned-up brim began to secure the fashion. This was generally worn
tilted on one side and often over a scarlet skull-cap. A large bunch of
plumes came in with this hat, set up from the front, curving backwards,
and giving a very grand effect: with most of the tall hats the
feather was set at the back.
[Illustration: FIG. 30.--Fifteenth century.]
[Illustration: FIG. 31.--Fifteenth century, 1st half.]
[Illustration: FIG. 32.--Fifteenth century, 2nd half.]
The notable change in the tunic, which was worn both very short and to
the ground, was the arrangement of folds to the back and front, gathered
to a =V= shape at the waist. The hanging sleeve began to go out of favour
after the middle of the century, but the sleeve or cuff covering the
hand was continued till the end of this century.
A sleeve, full at the shoulder, is found, and short, round, padded
sleeves came in, worn over a close-fitting sleeve. This short sleeve
became raised on the shoulder, and was cut or looped up the outer side:
a long loose outer sleeve is also seen in conjunction with these short
ones. A very short jacket is notable, of a plain square shape, with a
plain sleeve on the left arm and a hanging sleeve on the right to the
knee. The tight-fitting jerkin, laced down the front, was worn with this
as with most other coats.
[Illustration: FIG. 33.--End of fifteenth century.]
[Illustration: FIG. 34.--Fifteenth century, 2nd half.]
[Illustration: Plate VIIIa--
(_a_) Suit of Embroidered Silk. 1610-30.
(_b_) Three Sword Hangers Embroidered in Gold. Charles II.
(_c_) Braided Suit. 1670-90.]
[Illustration: FIG. 35.--Fifteenth-century Shoes and Clogs.]
The high collar to the throat had gone out for a collar opened in front.
Very short and very long "chasubles" were worn with or without sleeves
which were gathered high and full at the shoulders. The sleeves
were now sometimes slit open at the back and held with several ties, as
linen sleeves are now shown with these.
Parti-coloured tights were not so much favoured through this period, but
a decorated thigh, or part of the thigh and knee, was a favourite method
of enrichment.
[Illustration: FIG. 36.]
A long coat came in at the later part of this time, with a deep =V=-shaped
collar meeting at the waist; it was also cut into a square shape at the
shoulders, as in Fig. 43 (see p. 119). A loose bell-shaped sleeve
usually went with this, often opened in the front of the upper arm. A
short square cape is at times seen in conjunction with this. A low
square or round neck shape came in during the last quarter of this
century, filled in with a fine gathered lawn and a tight-fitting coat
with a pleated skirt and full padded sleeves, or a tight sleeve
with a full puff or spherical upper part.
[Illustration: FIG. 37.
Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, second half of 15th century.
Nos. 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, variety of shapes from 1490
to 1630.]
[Illustration: FIG. 38.
No.
1. 14th century.
2. 15th century.
3. " "
4. Late 16th cent.
5. 1580-1610.
6. " "
7. 1605-1640.
8. 1600-1625.
9. 1550-1600.
10. 1610-1640.
11. 1590-1620.
12. 1605-1630.
13. 1675-1695.
14. 1670-1690.
15. 1680-1700.
16. 1690-1720.
17. 1680-1700.
18. 1700-1750.
19. 1700-1780.
20. 1700-1760.
21. 1740-1780.
22. 1745-1780.
23. 1770-1800.
24. 1730-1760.
25. 1700-1780.
26. 1830-1860.
27. 1780-1800.
28. 1840-1870.
29. " " ]
[Illustration: Plate IX.--
(_a_) Lady's Embroidered Silk Jacket. 1605-30.
(_b_) Lady's Bodice of Silk Brocade. 1680-1700.]
[Illustration: FIG. 39.--Decorated Leather, 15th and 16th centuries.
_Comb case_
_purse_
_Cut leather. 15 cent._
_Leather_
_Pierced leather, 16 cent._
_Bronze studs 15 or 16 cent._
_metal studs_
_Incised lines with metal studs 15 cent._]
Shoes and boots were still worn with very long pointed toes till about
1465, when a proclamation was issued for beaks or piked shoes not to
pass two inches, and after this time a broad round-toed shoe began to
appear. Soft high boots to the top of the thigh, with folded top, belong
to this century, as well as the fashionable boot to the calf. The sword
or dagger was carried towards the front or side, and a small dagger
across the belt at the back. The pouch or purse was also used as a
dagger support.