THE DEVELOPMENT OF COSTUME TO THE TENTH CENTURY. FEMALE.
The female head-dress consisted chiefly of flowing hair banded with a
circlet of various shapes, but a development of braiding plaits is found
very early, and the hair was probably arranged so before the Roman era.
These plaits were generally brought over the shoulder to the front, the
hair being parted in the centre, thus making an oval forehead. Various
caps began to show originality, and jewels were set in the centre of the
forehead on the little crown-like hat, which must have been most
becoming. Squares of coloured stuffs were draped over the head and
shoulders, sometimes upon white linen squares, and many ladies began to
bind the face and head, shutting out the hair, in the 8th century. The
kerchief draping is very important to study, because it was the general
mode amongst the people.
Heavy collars of ornament and strings of beads, hanging even to the
waist, are noticeable features of these centuries, also large ear-rings.
A full cloak, with a large clasp or brooch, opened in front, or was
turned to free one shoulder; there was also a long "drape" thrown round
over the opposite shoulder or brought picturesquely over the head.
The ecclesiastical form of cloak as described in the male attire was
also formed about the 6th century; its graceful line was frequently
bordered completely with a band of ornament, and it was clasped just
across the breasts.
The complete circular cloak, with a hole for the head, is seen very
early, decorated with a pinked edge, which may also be noted on some of
the short dresses of the middle classes. Aprons are no doubt of the
earliest origin. A loose tunic falling to the hips was girded rather
high up the body, as in the classic dress, and bands passing both
outside or crossing between the breasts and going over the shoulder came
from the same source; these were with, or without, short sleeves to the
elbow. A long loose robe was the chief attire to the 6th century,
belted rather high in the waist, and caught up with a girdle at the
hips; these girdles gave a great interest to the early centuries, with
the art of arranging the fullness of skirt into its hold.
[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
From the 6th century the dress became closer fitting, and a short bodice
is seen; the neck was cut very low, either square or round in shape, and
this style had short tight sleeves or tight sleeves to the wrist. The
later tunic of the 9th century marked the beginning of the slit-open
upper sleeve, and a greater length of the neck opening, which came to be
fastened down the front to the waist.
The early skirts (to the 6th century) were hung from the hips, and were
often attached to a heavy girdle band, the fullness was gathered mostly
at the back and front; other skirts hung from a higher belt and were
again caught up in the girdle. A =V=-shaped neck setting was worn by the
Franks, from which probably came the shaped front piece that will
interest us in the 13th century. The shoes were similar to the male
shapes described later, and the same mode of binding the stockings was
sometimes imitated.
THE DEVELOPMENT OF COSTUME TO THE TENTH CENTURY. MALE.
In taking the long period from the Roman occupation to the 10th century,
we can discover a real development of style in costume, as with the
system of vassalage a distinction of class arose. No doubt the Romans
introduced a finer tuition of weaving, needlecraft, decoration, and
dyeing; and later the various peoples coming from the Continent, when
settled under Alfred in the 9th century, produced a solid style of
barbaric splendour.
[Illustration: FIG. 2.]
[Illustration: FIG. 3.]
The male hair dressing, from the rugged mass of hair, soon became well
combed and trimmed square across the neck: ear-rings may still have been
in use by some nobles till the 11th century, and chaplets were worn upon
the hair. The Saxon beard was divided into two points. Small round tight
caps of wool, fur, or velvet, and rush or straw hats of a definite shape
were in use to the 10th century. Tight caps, with lappets tied under the
chin, and hoods appear on the short capes about the 8th century, or
probably earlier. The garment was of the simplest form, cut like a
plain square loose shirt to the middle of the thigh, and this was put on
over the head. The opening to pass the head through was the first part
to receive a band of decoration. The sides were sometimes opened to the
hips and the front caught between the legs and held at the waist. A
garment opened down the front, and another wrapped across to either
shoulder is also seen. A belt girt the waist, and the tunic was pulled
loosely over it. This also carried the essential requirements in the
shape of a pouch, dagger, knife, comb, sword, &c. The neck was
ornamented with chains of bronze, gold, beads, and charms, and up to the
8th century a bronze ornamental armlet was worn, besides a wristlet.
The men of the ruling class from the 8th century were clothed in a long
garment of simple shape, falling to the ankle, richly bordered at the
hem and neck. This generally had long tight sleeves, and often over this
a shorter tunic, reaching just below the knee, sometimes sleeveless, or
with rather full sleeves tightening to the wrist.
[Illustration: FIG. 4.]
A plain square chasuble shape was in fashion from the 8th century,
reaching to the bottom of the calf of the leg, and richer materials
began to be used; no belt was passed round this, as it was allowed to
fall straight.
Loose breeches were worn from very early times, and a loose trouser to
the ankle, being tied there or bound crosswise from the boot sometimes
right up the thigh. The same binding was done even with the bare legs
and later hose: close-fitting short breeches and cloth hose became a
feature in the 10th century, and with the latter an ornamental
knee-piece or garter below the knee sometimes finished the strappings.
The cloak was the "grand garment," heavily banded with ornament and
fastened with a large clasp on one shoulder, or at the centre of the
breast. Long circular cloaks of varying lengths, put on over the head,
were much favoured, and when caught up at the sides on either shoulder
gave a fine draped effect.
Another cloak of ecclesiastical character, sloping in a curve from the
neck and not meeting in front, is seen on many notable figures from the
early 8th century, large clasps bridging the width low down on the
chest.
[Illustration: Plate III.--
(_a_) Elizabethan Jump (or Jacket). About 1600.
(_b_) Portrait of a Lady in Embroidered Costume. Between
1620 and 1640.]
[Illustration: FIG. 5.--TYPES OF SHOES. British, Roman,
Norman to 13th century.]
No doubt the sandal of various forms was much used for footwear through
this period, also a simple low shoe which was held on by the
leg-strappings, as, about the 8th century, shoes are seen with loops at
the upper edge, these being attachments for the binding, and this was
no doubt a method from the prehistoric times.
There was also a soft boot reaching to the calf, laced up the front;
and, after the 8th century, a rather pointed shoe, open down the instep,
laced, tied, or gathered into a buckle about the ankle.