a pencil on all four sides. The curve should be cut with a knife; the
upper part may be planed if the square part is not squeezed in the vise.
Plane the two pieces for the vanes as accurately as possible so as to be
able to make a good joint. Lay out and cut this joint as directed on
page 24. After it is well fitted, draw the curves where the edges are to
be whittled away. There are sixteen of them. Open the compass 3/4" and
place the needle point always on the _front right-hand_ edge as the
wheel turns around. The curve begins 1/8" from the joint and ends 1/8"
from the back edge (one also goes towards the lower edge). From this
point draw a straight line to the end of the vane. Draw such lines as
explained on page 32. Take the joint apart and whittle the edges away to
these curves.
On the beam, make chamfers 1-3/4" long. At the rear end, on the top and
bottom, draw a center-line and two lines on each side of the center-line
1/8" apart. Between the first two, nearest the center-line, make the
V-shaped groove in which the rudder fits. The sides of the beam are to
be pared away to the other two lines, leaving this end 1/2" wide.
The curves at the rear end of the rudder can be sawed best with a scroll
saw. Lacking that, proceed as follows: First, bore a 1/4" hole near the
short straight line in the middle. Resting the rudder on a cutting
board, pare to this line with a chisel. Next, saw straight from the end
of the rudder to this straight line; then saw the corners, and pare to
the curves. The width of the notch at the front end of the rudder is
equal to the space left between the roots of the V-shaped notches in the
beam. Measure this space, lay out the notch, saw, and chisel it; then
pare the corners so as to fit the V-shaped notches in the beam. Beware
of crowding the rudder, for it will split easily. When fitted, glue and
nail it in place, slanting a 1" brad thru the curve into the beam.
[Illustration: WINDMILL
PLATE 32]
Put the wheel on the beam with two washers and a large screw (2" No. 12
round head is a good one). For this screw bore a 1/4" hole thru the
center of the wheel, and a smaller hole in the beam. Now balance the
windmill on the top of the post, and put the beam and post together with
washers and screw in the same manner.
KITE-STRING REEL--PLATE 33.
A boy who flies kites will appreciate this reel for hauling in his kite
quickly and keeping the string in order. The axle is made long for the
purpose of putting on a brake when letting out a kite. The brake is
simply a strong cord, fastened to a screw in the lower part of the
further upright, (as viewed in Plate 33) wound several times around the
axle, and the other end held in the hand. A 1" hole is bored in the base
so that the reel can be anchored to the ground with a stake. With a loop
of string fastened to the upright below the crank, the crank can be kept
from turning, if one does not wish to let out all of the kite-string.
Make the base first, then the uprights. In the uprights, it is more
convenient to bore the 9/16" holes before the sides are planed slanting.
After the wheel pieces are joined in the manner explained on page 24,
lay out the slanting lines on each arm while the joint is still
together; then take it apart and plane to the slanting lines. Hold each
piece securely slantwise in the vise, because one pair especially is apt
to split from the notch outward. When this planing is finished, glue the
joint and bore a 1/2" hole straight thru the center. If convenient, make
the cross pieces in one long piece, 20", planing off one corner flat
(see sectional drawing, Plate 33) within 1/8" of the two adjacent
corners. Being careful to drive no brad into the 1/2" hole, glue and
nail these four cross pieces to one wheel. Then glue them to the other
wheel and wind some string around tightly enough to hold this wheel
while adjusting and nailing it. It will require care to get the cross
pieces square with the first wheel, and the second wheel parallel with
the first. After the string is wound around to hold the second wheel,
measure the distance from wheel to wheel at the ends of all the arms.
The nailing can be done while one arm of the wheels is held in the vise.
The axle and handle should be glued and nailed to the crank. Now put the
reel together, not forgetting the washers inside the uprights, and lock
the wheels to the axle by drilling a hole for a 2" nail thru cross
piece, wheel, and axle.
[Illustration: KITE STRING REEL
PLATE 33]
[Illustration: STRING MACHINE
PLATE 34]
STRING MACHINE--PLATE 34.
On a machine like this, one can twist bowstrings, topstrings,
fish-lines, silk cord for fancy work, and any similar cord. Tho designed
to be held on the floor or table with flat-irons, clamps, of course,
will hold it better.
Make the tail piece first. In the cross pieces of the tail piece are two
screws 7/8" from the ends; be careful to bore the holes large enough so
the screws will not split them. The edges of the lower cross piece must
be sandpapered enough not to cut the elastic bands.
In order that the belt shall run on the center of the wheels in the head
piece, it is important to have the three axles parallel. To make them
so, the two uprights must be clamped together while boring the 3/8"
holes for the axles. Lest the spur of the bit split the uprights, drill
small holes at each center first. Do not nail the longer upright to the
base until the belt runs well in both directions. On a lathe, the wheels
and axles could easily be made of one piece; lacking a lathe, a big
spool or curtain pole must be used. Plug the hole of the spool with a
dowel, then very accurately find its center and bore a 3/8" hole thru
it. Saw it into three 5/8" pieces for the wheels. Glue these to the
axles so that 1" extends thru the taller upright. A belt runs better on
a wheel that is "crowned," that is, slightly larger in the middle; so
the edges of these wheels must be pared 1/32", making a gentle curve.
Put the washers each side of the wheels, then put the wheels in place in
the taller upright, and nail this to the triangular block. Pull a 5/8"
leather belt tightly around the three wheels and sew the ends so that
they butt together. Clamp the shorter upright in position and turn the
upper axle to see if the belt runs well in both directions. It will run
true when all three axles are parallel, so keep knocking the shorter
upright from side to side or up and down until the belt does run true;
then bore holes for three screws to hold it to the triangular block.
Make the crank and lock it to the upper axle with a 1/2" screw.
To twist a string, set the two parts of the machine somewhat farther
apart than the finished length desired, put on as many threads, from
hooks on the tail piece to corresponding hooks on the head piece, as
will make the finished string the desired size. Observe how these
separate threads were twisted, and start the machine in the _opposite_
way. Twist until the three strands kink readily when the head piece is
brought nearer the tail piece. The tighter these are twisted, the harder
the string will be. (Soap rubbed on the inside of the belt may make the
belt carry more power). When these three strands are twisted enough,
remove the two lower ones from their _hooks on the head piece_ to the
upper hook. Twist in the _opposite_ direction until the string kinks
again, and it is made. If the three strands are waxed, a stronger string
will be made.
WINDMILL FORCE-PUMP--PLATE 35.
If this pump is properly connected with an air chamber, as explained
later, it will send a small stream of water some ten feet. In a gale,
the windmill is strong enough, in fact, to force the valves from the
glass tubes. Like any model of considerable mechanism, this will require
patience to get it in working order. The post is made short for
stability. If it can be held in place firmly, a trestlework tower like a
real windmill might be built of stock 1/2" × 1/2" for the corner posts
and 1/2" × 1/8" for the braces.
The post is slanting on two sides to fit the journals at the top. It is
fastened to the base with two 2" screws. Make the wheel center 2-1/8"
square, and thru its center bore a 1/4" hole. If it does not revolve
true, make another block and try again. Make the block octagonal by
cutting off each corner 5/8". On each of the eight faces saw notches
1/8" wide and 5/16" deep into which the vanes will fit. (See page 64 on
cutting notches.) Make and glue the vanes in place and lay the wheel
flat to dry.
Procure three pieces of water-gage glass 2" long, 7/16" to 1/2" inside
diameter. Glass tubes can be broken apart by filing a slight notch,
grasping the tube firmly each side of the notch, and pulling and bending
the tube away from the notch. If the file starts a little break, this
will be comparatively easy, if it does not, file some more. Into two
tubes little valves must be cemented. These can be made of a firm piece
of leather. Sole leather that is not too hard is best. With knife or
chisel, pare two pieces on the cutting board to fit in the tubes. The
cement will make them water tight later. Push the sharp point of a
penknife into the smooth side of the leather disk and make a circular
cut, as one would remove a speck from an apple, but do not cut the flap
completely out, because it must be left hinged to the disk. Turn this
flap up straight out of the way so as to be able to work a 1/4" hole
thru the disk. This can be punched, drilled, or cut out with a 1/8"
chisel, and finished with a penknife. Of course, the edges of the flap
should cover this hole completely. The valve in the lowest tube should
be cemented about 1/2" from the lower end with the flap up, that in the
horizontal tube about 3/4" from the outer end with the flap out.
[Illustration: WINDMILL FORCE-PUMP
PLATE 35]
To make sealing-wax sticky enough to cement these valves in the tubes,
melt one teaspoon of wax with one-half teaspoon of turpentine in a large
spoon, and allow it to cool. Break it in pieces small enough to go in
the tubes. Put the valve in the tube a little to one side of its final
position; put in some of the wax mixture; heat the tube in an alcohol
flame, rolling the tube till the wax begins to melt; remove from the
flame; and when the wax is all melted, push the valve to its final
position with a pencil. While it is cooling, see that the wax does not
flow into the valve. All three tubes must have a piece of rubber tubing
on the outside to serve as packing in the wooden block. With an
expansive bit, holes can be bored in the block so that the rubber tubing
will fit tightly. Lacking that, bore a smaller hole and enlarge it with
a round file. The center of the vertical hole is somewhat to the left
(as viewed in Plate 35) of the center of the block to allow the
horizontal tube more support. This will require the notch in the upright
also to be to the left of the center. After the holes are bored, the
pores of the wood must be filled with paraffin. In a little dish, melt
some paraffin and put it into the holes with a rag tied to a stick. When
the holes are well covered, drive the wax into the wood with an alcohol
or candle flame held in the hole till the wood is fairly hot. The
outside of the block might well be treated in like manner. It will be
best to cement these tubes in their places. Melt a tablespoon of sealing
wax with about as much turpentine. With this, not too hot, build up a
good fillet over the rubber tubing 1/4", perhaps, on the glass tubes.
Make a good fitting piston for the upper tube; it must not slide hard
(oil it) and yet it must be air tight. To make the piston file two
grooves 1/2" apart around and near the end of the piston rod. Wind a
hummock of yarn between these grooves till it almost fills the tube,
then wrap a piece of soft cloth (knitted underwear) smoothly over the
hummock, tying it in each groove with thread.
Lock the crank to the axle with a 1/2" screw. Adjust the axle and keep
it in position with two leather washers locked to the axle just outside
the journals. Clamp the block to the base, adjust it in line with the
crank, and fasten it with two 1-1/2" screws up thru the base. The last
connection to make is between the crank and connecting-rod. To make
this, raise the piston to its highest position, and turn the crank to
its lowest; choose what seems the best point for the screw, marking the
point on crank and connecting-rod; now lower the piston and raise the
crank; if the two points do not come together, the screw should be
placed half way between them. This screw should be tight in the crank.
The wheel can now be glued to the axle or locked with a brad slanting
from the front of the wheel center.
Before they will work, the valves must be made limber with water, and to
start the pump, water may have to be put on each side of the valves.
Water may be pumped to any height by fastening a pipe to the horizontal
tube. To obtain a steady stream, like a fire-engine, connect the
horizontal tube with an air-tight bottle. The pipe which goes into this
bottle should reach just below the stopper. The outlet pipe should
nearly reach the bottom of the bottle, and it should have a nozzle
smaller than any other opening in the whole apparatus. The bottle should
be partly full of water. Quarter-inch glass tubing can be melted and
shaped in an alcohol flame, and, if some rubber tubing is used as a
connection, the nozzle can be played anywhere.
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