HIGHLANDS OF ASTURIAS
(1) THE TROUT IN SPAIN
The Asturian Highlands--a maze of mist-wreathed mountains forested with
birch and pine, the home of brown bear and capercaillie, and on whose
towering peaks roam herds of chamois by hundreds--form a region distinct
from the rest of Spain.
Rushing rivers and mountain-torrents coursing down each rent in those
rock-ramparts attracted our earliest angling ambitions. Some of those
efforts--with rod and gun--are recorded in _Wild Spain_, and we purpose
attempting no more--whether with pen or fly-rod. For the Spanish trout
is given no sort of sporting chance, and lovely streams--a very epitome
of trouting-water--that might make the world a pleasanter planet (and
enrich their owners too) are abandoned to the assassin with dynamite and
quicklime, or to villainous nets, cruives, and other engines of
wholesale destruction with which we have no concern.
Never since the date of _Wild Spain_ have we cast line on Spanish
waters, nor ever again will we attempt it. Spain which, from her French
frontier in the Pyrenees right across to that of Portugal on the west,
might rival any European country in this respect stands well-nigh at the
foot of the list. Not in the most harassed streams of Norway, nor in her
hardest-"ottered" lakes, have the trout so damnable a fate dealt out to
them as in northern Spain, and for twenty years we have abandoned it as
an angling potentiality--or, to put it mildly, there are countries
infinitely more attractive to the wandering fisherman.
The case of the Spanish trout as it stands to-day is summed up in the
following letter, dated April 1910, from our friend Capt. F. J.
Mitchell:--
I have tried a great many of the best rivers in northern Spain,
and have come to the conclusion that for angling purposes they
have been hopelessly ruined--by dynamite, cloruro, lime, coca, and
various other things. There may be deep pools here and there where
fish have escaped, but they are very few. If your book is not
finished you can put this in, as it is accurate, and may save many
a disappointment to the free fisherman.
Farther south, in León and northern Estremadura, are also rivers of
first-rate character. The Alagón, for example, with its tributaries, is
well adapted for trout--dashing streams with alternate stretches of pool
and rapid. These still hold trout in their head-waters among the
mountains; but lower down the speckled beauties are well-nigh
extirpated.
In this region one frequently observes, not without surprise, evidence
of the introduction and acclimatisation of exotic products by old-time
Moors--often in most outlandish nooks, wherever their keen eyes had
spotted some fertile patch: probably, ere this, that energetic race
would have preserved and cultivated the trout! The success of such
enterprise in New Zealand and South Africa (it is even promising to
succeed under the Equator in B.E. Africa), and indeed in Spain itself
(at Algeciras), attests how easily these Iberian waters might be endowed
with a new interest and a new value.
Such, however, is existent apathy that, although the local natives (N.
Estremadura) were aware of the presence of fish in their rivers, and
told us that some ran to 10 or 12 lbs. in weight (these were barbel),
yet they knew no distinctive names for the various species. All fish,
big or little, were merely _pesces--Muy buenas pesces_. None could
describe them, whether as to appearance or habit, nor did they know
whether some species were migratory or otherwise.
The only angling we have seen practised in this province was at
Trujillo, where in some lakes adjoining that old-world city _Tencas_ (we
presume tench) up to 5 or 6 lbs. are taken with bait.
(2) SALMON
To such an extent used these to abound in Asturian streams that
maid-servants stipulated on entering domestic service that they should
not be given salmon more than twice a week. At the present day the
pollution of rivers by coal-mining and other impurities has in some
cases banished the salmon entirely, in others greatly reduced their
numbers. There yet remain, nevertheless, rivers in Asturias (such as the
Deva and Cares) where salmon abound, and where numbers are still
caught--chiefly by net, though rod-fishing is gradually extending its
popularity, "owing to the glorious emotions it excites."
A local method deserves a word of description. In the crystal-clear
waters of N. Spain salmon are regularly captured by expert divers. Its
exact position having been marked, the diver, swimming warily up from
behind, slips a running noose over the salmon's head. The noose draws
tight as the fish begins to run; an attached line is then hauled upon by
a second fisherman on the bank.
The Marquis de Villaviciosa de Asturias writes us:--
It is a common practice with the fishermen to dive and capture
salmon in their arms (_á brazo_). My grandfather, the Marquis de
Camposagrado, caught twelve thus in a single morning in the river
Nalon in Asturias.
(3) BEAR-HUNTING IN ASTURIAS
To the same nobleman (one of the first sportsmen of Spain) we are
indebted for the following note:--
As regards the chase of the bear in Asturias, where I have killed
four, I may say that it commences in September, at which period the
bears are in the habit of descending nightly from the higher
mountain-forests to the lower ground in order to raid the
maize-fields in the valleys. Expert trackers, sent out at daybreak,
spoor the bear right up to whichever covert he may have entered,
and from which no further tracks emerge beyond.
The locality at which the animal has laid up being thus
ascertained, a _montería_ (mountain-drive) is organised--the
beaters being provided with crackers, empty tins, hunting-horns,
and every sort of ear-splitting engine--even the services of the
bagpiper[52] are requisitioned!
Three or four guns are usually required, and are posted along the
line where the bear is most likely to break--such as where the
forest runs out to a point; or where it is narrowed by some
projecting spur of precipitous rocks; or a deep valley where the
covert is flanked by a mountain-torrent that restricts and defines
the probable line of escape.
The bear (which is in the habit of attacking and destroying much
cattle) comes crashing through the brushwood, breaking down all
obstacles, and giving ample notice by the noise of his advance. If
wounded he will attack the aggressor; but otherwise bears only
become dangerous when they have young or are hurt in some way. The
picturesque nature of these mountain-forests lends a further
fascination to the chase of the bear in Asturias. From twenty to
thirty bears are killed here every year.
The following quaint paragraphs we extract from Spanish newspapers:--
FIGHT WITH A BEAR.--In the mountains of the Province of Lerida
(Catalonia) a bear last week attacked and overpowered a muleteer,
intending to devour him. A shepherd who happened to be in the
neighbourhood, though at some little distance, witnessed the
occurrence. Hastening with his utmost speed to the spot, he threw
himself between the bear and its victim; and after a prolonged and
strenuous combat (_lucha larga y esforzada_), the shepherd
succeeded with his lance (_garrocha_) in killing the savage beast
(_fiera_).
In his gratitude, the muleteer desired to present the shepherd with
the best horse of his cavalcade, but this the latter
declined.--_November 24, 1907._
INCURSION OF A BEAR.--In the outskirts of the village of Parámo in
the Province of Oviedo (Asturias) there has within the last few
days made its presence felt an immense bear which continued to
execute terrible destruction among the cattle belonging to the
villagers. Fortunately the parish-priest, who is an expert shot,
succeeded in killing the depredator. It weighed 140 kilograms (=
300 lbs.).--_April 25, 1908._ [Two others are recorded to weigh 400
and 440 lbs.]
CHASE OF A SHE-BEAR--SANTANDÉR, _February 1909_. From Molledo an
assemblage of the local peasantry, mustered for the purpose, and
bearing every kind of weapon, sallied forth, to give battle to a
bear which for some weeks had been working havoc among their flocks
and herds. After traversing the mountains in all directions without
result, they were already returning, dead-beat and disappointed,
towards their village, when they suddenly descried the bear
standing in the entrance to a cave. On observing the presence of
hunters, the animal disappeared within. A shepherd named Melchor
Martinez at once followed, penetrating the interior of the cavern
which extends far into the mountain-side. Presently on indistinctly
perceiving (_divisando_) the beast, Melchor gave it a shot--flying
out himself with hair all standing on end (_encrespados_) at the
roaring of the wild beast (_fiera_). Melchor, nevertheless, at once
entered the den again and fired a second shot--jumping out
immediately thereafter. After a short interval, the roars of the
_fiera_ within having ceased, the hunters in a body entered the
cavern and found an enormous she-bear lying dead, together with
four young, alive, which they carried away.
(Bravo, Melchor Martinez!)
(4) GAME-BIRDS OF CANTABRIA
Alike in its game-denizens with other physical features, Cantabria is
differentiated from the rest of Spain, approximating rather to a
north-European similitude. Thus the capercaillie is spread along the
whole Biscayan range though nowhere numerous, and in appearance less so
than in fact, owing to the density of these mountain-forests.
During our long but fruitless rambles after bear we raised but four;
that, however, was in spring when these birds are apt to lie close.
In the Pyrenees (where the capercaillie is known as _Gallo de Bosque_) a
certain number are shot every winter along with roebuck and pig in
mountain-drives (_monterías_); but in the Asturias the pursuit of the
_Gallo de Monte_ is effected (as in Austria and northern Europe) during
its courting-season in May. The system is well known. The opportunity
occurs at dusk and dawn, the stalker advancing while the lovelorn male
sings a frenzied epithalamium, halting instantly when the bird becomes
silent.
Ptarmigan are found in the Pyrenees, but seem to extend no farther west
than the Province of Navarre, which area also coincides roughly with the
southern distribution of the hazel-grouse (_Tetrao bonasia_) though we
had some suspicion (not since confirmed) that the latter may extend into
Asturias.
Our common grey partridge, unknown in S. Spain, occurs all along the
Cantabrian highlands up to, but not beyond, the Cordillera de León. Here
it descends to the foothills in winter, but is never found on the
plains.
A bird peculiar to this region, though not game, deserves remark, the
great black woodpecker, a subarctic species which we have observed in
the Picos de Europa.
ANGLING IN RIVER AND SEA[53]
Nearly all the Spanish rivers when they leave the sierras and dawdle
through the plains degenerate into sluggish mud-charged streams; but
most of them are well stocked with barbel, which may be caught by
methods similar to those in vogue on the Thames, _i.e._ by float-fishing
or ledgering with fine but strong tackle, as the first rush of a barbel
is worthy of a trout. These fish average about one pound in weight, but
in favourable spots, such as mill-tails, run up to 10 lbs. and upwards.
The Spanish barbel has developed one trait in advance of its English
cousins, for it will rise to a fly, or at least to a grasshopper. Owing
to the abundance of these insects and of crickets along the river-banks
in summer, the barbel have acquired a taste for such delicacies, and a
hot June afternoon in Andalucia may be worse spent than in "dapping"
beneath the trees that fringe the banks of Guadalete and similar rivers.
The _Boga_, a little fish of the roach or dace family, seldom exceeding
a quarter pound, will afford amusement in all the smaller trout-streams
of Spain and Portugal when trout are recusant. The _boga_ is lured with
a worm-tail (on finest gut and smallest hook) from each little run or
cascade, whence five or six dozens may be extracted in an afternoon.
The Grey Mullet (Spanish, _Lisa_) is a good sporting fish ranging from
half a pound up to four pounds weight, and caught readily in tidal
rivers as it comes up from sea on the flood. Native anglers are often
very successful, using long roach-poles and gear similar to that of the
roach-fisher at home. The bait is either lugworm or paste, and on
favouring days as many as two dozen mullet are landed during the run of
the flood-tide.
The Shad (Spanish, _Sabalo_), though not only the handsomest but also
the best-eating of all tidal-river fish, is of no concern to the angler,
since it refuses to look at lure of any kind.
The Tunny (Spanish, _Atun_) frequents the south-Spanish coasts and comes
in millions to the mouths of the big rivers (especially the
Guadalquivír) to spawn. The usual method of capture is by a huge fixed
net called the _almadrava_, extending three miles out to sea, and placed
at such an angle to the coast-line that the fish, on striking it, follow
along to the inshore end, where they enter a _corral_ or enclosed space
about an acre in extent. Here the fishing-boats lie waiting, and when as
many as 500 huge tunnies (they average 300 lbs. apiece) are enclosed at
once, a scene of wild excitement and bloodshed ensues, the great fish
darting and splashing around their prison, sending spray flying
mast-high, while the fishermen yell and gaff and harpoon by turns.
The most successful _almadrava_ is situate at Rota, some seven miles
south of the mouth of Guadalquivír, the average catch for the season
(May 1 till August 1) being about 20,000 tunnies. A canning factory
stands on the shore hard by, where the fish are boiled, potted, and
shipped to Italy, whence (the tins being labelled "Italian Tunny") they
are exported to all parts of the world! The flesh resembles veal, and is
much appreciated in South America.
ROD-FISHING FOR TUNNY
At this period, when the tunny go to spawn (exclusively larger fish),
they travel, as the Spaniards say, with their mouths shut, and nothing
will induce them to look at a bait. There occurs, however, in winter
(November to February) another "run" of smaller fish averaging 50 to 150
lbs. apiece, and these are amenable to temptation. Tarifa, in the
Straits of Gibraltar, is a favourable point from which to attempt this
sport. The system is to cruise about in a falucho, or sailing-boat,
carrying a plentiful supply of sardines, mackerel, and other small fish
to serve as bait. These, on arrival at likely waters, are thrown
overboard one by one till at length they attract a roving tunny. The
operation is repeated till the quarry is enticed close up to the vessel.
A similar fish, impaled on a two-inch hook, is then offered him,
dangling on the surface, and will probably be seized. The tunny on
finding himself held, makes off in a bee-line at a mile a minute.
Needless to say, the strongest tackle must be used, together with some
hundreds of yards of line, and the fight will be severe and prolonged,
for the tunny is one of the swiftest and most active of fish, and he
weighs as much as an average man. Few amateurs have hitherto attempted
this sport; but as large numbers of tunny are caught thus by
professional fishermen with extremely coarse hand-lines, there seems to
be no reason why "big-game fishing" in Spain, if scientifically pursued,
might not rival that of California.
The Bonito is another fine game-fish which may be caught at sunrise at
nearly any point on the Andalucian sea-board by trolling with a white
fly.