CHAPTER X

WILD-GEESE IN SPAIN

THEIR SPECIES, HAUNTS, AND HABITS

To Spain, as to other lands that remain unaltered and "unimproved,"

resort the greylag geese in thousands to pass the winter.

In our marismas of the Guadalquivir they appear during the last days of

September, but it is a month later ere their full numbers are made up,

and from that date until the end of February their defiant multitudes

and the splendid difficulties of their pursuit afford a unique form and

degree of wild sport perhaps unknown outside of Spain.

Ride through the marisma in November; it is mostly dry, and autumn rains

have merely refreshed the sun-baked alluvia and formed sporadic

shallows, or _lucios_ as they are here termed. That _lucio_ straight

ahead is a mile across, yet it is literally tessellated with a sonorous

crowd. With binoculars one distinguishes similar scenes beyond; the

intervening space--and indeed the whole marisma--is crowded with geese

as thickly as it is on our immediate front. To right and left rise fresh

armies hitherto concealed among the _armajo_, till the very earth seems

in process of upheaval, while the air resounds with a volume of

voices--gabblings, croaks, and shrill bi-tones mingled with the rumble

of beating wings.

Amid the islands of the Norwegian Skaargaard one can see geese in bulk,

but there their numbers are distributed over a thousand miles of coast.

Here we have them all--or a large proportion--concentrated in what is by

comparison but a narrow space.

In their life-habits these geese are strictly diurnal, that is, they

feed by day--chiefly in the early morning and again towards afternoon,

with a mid-day interval of rest. The night they spend asleep on some

broad _lucio_ or other bare open space. That habit, however, is subject

to modification during the periods of full moon, when many geese avail

themselves of her brilliant light to feed in even greater security than

they can enjoy by day. Their food consists exclusively of vegetable

substances--at first of the remnants of the summer's herbage, such as

green ribbon-grass (_canaliza_), and other semi-aquatic plants; their

main sustenance in mid-winter consists of the tuber-bearing roots of

spear-grass (_Cyperus longus_ and _C. rotundus_) which they dig up from

the ground.

[Illustration: ROOT OF SPEAR-GRASS]

When autumn rains are long delayed, their voracious armies will already

have consumed every green thing that remains in the parched marismas

long before the "new water" from the heavens shall have furnished new

feeding-grounds. In such cases the geese are forced to depart, and do

so--so far as our observation goes--in the direction of Morocco;

returning thence (within a few hours) immediately after rain has fallen.

Their entry, on this second arrival, is invariably from the south and

south-west--that is, from the sea.

There are three methods of shooting wild-geese in the Spanish marismas

which may here be specified, to wit:--

(1) Morning-flight, when the geese habitually come to "take sand" at the

dawn. See next chapter.

(2) "Driving" during the day (available only in dry years).

(3) Awaiting their arrival at dusk at their _dormideros_, or

sleeping-places, see pp. 97, 98.

An all-important factor in their pursuit arises from an economic

necessity with wild-geese constantly to possess, and frequently to

renew, a store of sand or grit in their gizzards. To obtain this they

resort every morning to certain sandy spots in the marismas (hereinafter

described, and which are known as _vetas_); or failing that, when the

said _vetas_ are submerged, to the sand-dunes outside. Although great

numbers of geese resort each morning to these spots, yet those numbers

are but a small proportion of their entire aggregate, for no individual

goose needs to replenish his supply of sand or grit more often than

perhaps once a week, or even less frequently. Hence at each dawn it is a

fresh contingent of geese that comes in _para arenárse_ = to "sand

themselves," as our keepers put it.

One other quality in the natural economy of wild-geese requires

mention--that is, their sense of scent. This defence wild-geese possess

in equal degree with wild-ducks and most other wild creatures; but each

class differ in their modes of utilising it.

For whereas ducks on detecting human scent will take instant alarm and

depart afar on that indication alone; yet geese, on the other hand,

though their nostrils have fully advised them of the presence of danger,

will not at once take wing, but remain--with necks erect and all eyes

concentrated towards the suspect point--awaiting confirmation by sight

what they already know by scent.

That such is the case we ascertained in the days (now long past) when we

ventured to stalk geese with no more covert than the low fringe of rush

that borders the marisma. "_Gatiando_" = cat-crouching, our keepers term

the method--laborious work, creeping flat for, it may be, 200 yards,

through sloppy mud with less than two-foot of cover. Should it become

necessary during the stalk to go directly to windward of the fowl, one's

presence (though quite unseen) would be instantly detected. The geese,

ceasing to feed or rest, all stood to attention, while low, rumbling

alarm-signals resounded along their lines. But they did not take wing.

Presently, however, one reached a gap in the thickly growing rushes--it

might not extend to a yard in width, yet no sooner was but a glimpse

available to the keen eyes beyond, than the whole pack rose in

simultaneous clatter of throats and wings. They had merely waited that

scintilla of ocular confirmation of a known danger.

"DRIVING" (IN A DRY SEASON)

For four months no rain had fallen. The parched earth gaped with

cavernous cracks; vegetation was dried up; starving cattle stood about

listless, and every day one saw the assembled vultures devouring the

carcases of those already dead.

From the turrets of our shooting-lodge one's eye surveyed--no longer an

inland sea, but a monotone of sun-baked mud; inspection through

binoculars revealed the fact that this whole space was dotted with

troops of ... well, a friend who was with us thought they were sheep;

but which, in fact, were bands of greylag geese.

The fluctuations of Spanish seasons--varying from Noachian deluge to

Saharan drought--necessarily react upon the habits of wildfowl. These

changes are one of the charms of the country; at any rate, they "stretch

out" the fowler to devise some new thing.

Those battalions of greylags posted out there on a vantage-ground where

a mouse might be a prominent object at 100 yards, how can they be

reduced to possession? Our friend aforesaid replies that the undertaking

appears humanly impossible. We have, nevertheless, elaborated a system

of driving, by which in dry years the greylag geese may be obtained with

some degree of certainty.

This morning (the last of January) we rode forth, four guns and four

keepers, across that plain. Upon approaching the pack of geese selected,

one keeper rides to a position rather above the "half-wind" line, and

there halts as a "stop." The remaining seven ride on till, at a silent

signal, No. 1 gun, without checking his horse, passes the bridle forward

and rolls out of the saddle with gun and gear, lying at once flat as a

flounder on the bare dry mud. At intervals of eighty yards each

successive gun does the same, the four being now extended in a half-moon

that commands nearly a quarter-mile of space. The three keepers (leading

the other horses) continue riding forward in circular course till a

second "stop" is placed in the right flank corresponding with the one

already posted on the left. The last pair now complete the circuit by

riding round to windward of the game, separating by 200 yards as that

position is attained. (See diagram.)

[Illustration]

How are these four guns to conceal themselves on perfectly bare ground

from the telescopic sight of wild-geese? Occasionally, some small

natural advantage may be found--such as tufts of rushes--and these are

at once availed of. But this morning there is no such aid. Not a rush

nor a mole-hill breaks that dead-level monotone for miles; and in such

condition a human being, however flat he may lie, is bound to be

detected by the keen-eyed geese long ere they arrive within shot.[21] A

dozen twigs of tree-heath, dipped in wet mud and then allowed to dry, so

as to harmonise in colour with the surroundings, may be utilised; but

the annexed sketch shows better than words a portable screen we have

devised and which fulfils this purpose. It consists of four bamboo

sticks two feet long, sharpened at the point, and connected by four or

five strings with one-foot intervals. This when rolled up forms a bundle

no thicker than an umbrella. On reaching one's post the bundle unrolls

of itself, the sharpened points are stuck into the ground at an angle

sloping towards the prostrate gun, a few tufts of dead grass (carried in

one's pocket) are woven through the strings and the shelter is complete.

Needless to say, these preparations must be carried out with the minimum

of movement in face of such vigilant foes. Some assistance, however,

accrues from the geese continuing to watch the moving file of horsemen

while the prostrate gunner erects his screen.

[Illustration: SHELTERS FOR DRIVING WILD-GEESE]

Well, the circle being complete, all four drivers (distant now, say,

1000 yards) converge on the common centre. The watchful geese have

ceased grubbing up the spear-grass, and now stand alert with a forest

of necks erect, while an increasing volume of gabbling attests their

growing suspicion. Presently, with redoubled outcry, they rise on wing,

and now commences the real science of our Spanish fowlers. The guns,

after all, command but a small segment of the circle--anywhere else the

geese can break out scathless--and this mischance it is the object of

our drivers and flankers to avert. No sooner does the gaggling band

shift its course to port or starboard than the "stop" on that side is

seen to be urging his horse in full career to intercept their flight,

yet using such judgment as will neither deflect their course too much or

turn them back altogether. Sometimes both flankers and drivers are seen

to be engaged at once, and a pretty sight it is to the prostrate gunners

to watch the equestrian manoeuvres.

Presently the whole band head away for what appears the only available

outlet, and should they then pass directly over one or other of the

guns, are seldom so high but that a pair should be secured

right-and-left.

In strong gales of wind the geese, on being driven, are apt, instead of

taking a direct course, to circle around in revolving flight, gaining

altitude at each revolution; and in such case not only come in very high

but at incredible speed--_mas lejeros que zarcetas_--swifter than teal,

as Vasquez puts it.

The first essential of success in driving wild-geese (and the same

applies to great bustard and all large winged game) is to instal the

firing-line as near as may be without disturbing the fowl. The more

remote the guns the greater the difficulty in forcing the game through

the crucial pass.

To manoeuvre single bands of geese as above, three or four guns at

most, with the same number of drivers, are best. A great crowd of

horsemen (such being never seen in these wilds) unduly arouses

suspicions already acute enough. With any greater number of guns, it is

advisable to extend the field of operations to, say, two or three miles,

thereby enclosing several troops of geese--this requiring a large force

of drivers. It does not, however, follow that each of these enclosed

troops will "enter" to the guns; for should one pack come in advance,

the firing will turn back the others. This mischance--or rather

bungle--may be averted (or may not) by the leading driver firing a blank

shot behind so soon as the first geese are seen to have taken wing.

Needless to remark, once a shot has been fired ahead, it becomes

tenfold harder to force the remaining geese to the guns.

Each gun should hold his fire till the main bodies of geese are well on

wing and seen to be heading in towards the shooting-line. The "best

possible" chances are thus secured, and not for one gun only, but quite

possibly for all, as several hundred geese pass down the line. A

premature shot, on the contrary, will ruin the best-planned drive, and

bring down merited abuse from the rest of the party with scathing

contempt from the drivers.

Taking single troops at a time, as many as six or eight separate drives

may be worked into a long day. Our first drive to-day produced three

geese, the second was blank, while five greylags rewarded the third

attempt. In the last instance three of the guns received welcome aid

from a string of _ojos_, or land-springs, around which grew a fringe of

green rushes, affording excellent cover.

By four o'clock we had secured, in five drives, eleven geese and a

wigeon. We then, on information received, changing our plan, rode off to

a point which the keeper of that district had noted was being used by

the geese as a _dormidero_, or sleeping-place; and here, as dusk fell,

an hour's "flighting" added six more greylags to that day's total.

The above may be put down as a fair average day's results in a dry

season. From a dozen to a score of driven geese (and occasionally many

more) represent, with such game as greylags, a degree and a quality of

sport that is ill-represented by cold numerals.

There are spots in the marisma where the configuration of the shore-line

enables the flight of the geese, when disturbed, to be foretold with

certainty. For geese will not cross dry land: their retreat is always to

the open waters. In such situations excellent results accrue from

placing the gun-line at a _right angle_ to the expected line of flight,

while all the "beaters," save one or two to flush the fowl, are

stationed as "stops" between the geese and their objective. On rising,

the birds thus find themselves confronted by a long line of horsemen who

intercept their natural retreat, and, in effect, force them back towards

the land. Should the operation be well executed, the landmost gun will

probably be the first to fire; while the geese thereafter pass down the

entire line of guns, possibly affording shots to each in turn.

Two guns can then be effectively brought into action. Needless to add,

the second must be handled with the utmost rapidity.

In wet winters, when the marisma is submerged, "driving" is not

available. Obviously you cannot place a line of guns, however keen, in

six inches of water, much less in half-a-yard.

My first impression of wild-goose driving (writes J.) was one of

wonder that such intensely astute and wide-awake fowl would ever

fly near, much less over so obvious a danger as the little loose

semicircle of rosemary twigs behind which I lay prone on the barest

of bare mud. Peering through between their naked stalks, I could

plainly see the geese some half-mile away, and it seemed incredible

that I should not be equally visible to them. Possibly the brown

leaves on top of the twigs may have concealed me from the loftier

anserine point of view, and the equestrian manoeuvres beyond no

doubt greatly aided the object. Anyway, the whole pack--three or

four hundred, and proportionally noisy--_did_ come right over me,

and a wildly exciting moment it was, I can assure you! We had six

or seven drives that day, and bagged twenty-eight splendid great

grey geese, of which eight fell to my lot.

I may perhaps be allowed to add (since such details are taken for

granted, or regarded as unworthy of note by regular gunners of the

_marisma_) that to-day we had no less than six times to cross and

recross a broad marsh-channel called the _Madre_--floundering,

splashing, slithering, and stumbling through 100 yards of mud and

water full three-foot deep. It may be nothing (if you're used to

it), yet twice I've seen horses go down, and their riders take a

cold bath, lucky if they didn't broach their barrels! To follow

Vasquez about the _marisma_ is a job that requires special

qualities that not all of us possess or (perchance fortunately?)

require to possess.

The following instructions may be worth the attention of new

beginners:--

(1) Never fire till you are fairly certain to kill at least one.

(2) Never rise or even move in your "hide" till the beat is entirely

finished.

(3) Reload at once; when big lots are being moved, two, three, or more

chances may offer quite unexpectedly.

(4) Wear suitably coloured clothes and head-gear, and never let the sun

glint on the gun-barrels.

(5) After firing, watch the departing geese till nearly out of sight.

Though apparently unhurt, one of their company may turn over,

stone-dead, in the distance.

"FLIGHTING"--AN INCIDENT OF A DRY SEASON

The day above described was selected, not only because it affords a

typical illustration of our theme, but also because there had occurred

during its course an extraneous incident which serves to amplify this

exposition of the pursuit of the greylag goose.

Riding across the marisma, certain signs at once filled both our minds

with fresh ideas. All around the ground was littered with cast feathers

and other evidence proclaiming that this special spot was a regular

resort of geese. We were crossing one of those slightly raised ridges of

sand and grit which here and there intersect the otherwise universal

dead-level of alluvial mud, and which ridges are known locally as

_vetas_--tongues.

Now the nutritive economy of wild-geese, as already explained, requires

a frequently replenished store of sand or grit. In wet seasons (the

marisma being then submerged) the geese resort to the adjoining

sand-dunes of Doñana to secure these supplies. But in dry winters they

are enabled to obtain the necessary sand from these _vetas_; and it was

to this particular spot that, to the number of many hundreds, the geese

were evidently resorting at this period.

At once the measure of opportunity was gauged, and the arrangements

necessary for its exploitation were made. Within three minutes a

messenger was galloping homewards to summon a couple of men with spades

and buckets to prepare a hole wherein one of us might lie concealed at

daybreak. A pannier-mule to carry away the excavated material was also

requisitioned, since the least visible change in the earth's surface

would instantly be recognised by the geese as a danger-signal. Within a

few minutes we had resumed our course, to continue the day's sport.

[Illustration: WILD-GEESE IN THE MARISMA.]

Next morning half an hour before dawn the writer reached the spot. It

was pitch-dark and a dense fog prevailed. By what mental process my

guides directed an unerring course to that lonely hole in the midst of a

pathless and practically boundless waste passes understanding. Such

piloting (without aid of compass or even of the heavenly bodies--the

usual index on which marshmen rely) seems to indicate a point where

intellect and instinct touch; or perhaps rather a survival of the latter

quality which, in modern races, has become obsolete through disuse.

Among savage races that faculty of instinct is markedly prominent,

indeed the master-force; but there it has been acquired (or retained) at

the cost of intellect, which is not the case with our Spanish

friends--they possess both qualities. But place the best intellects of

Madrid, or Paris, or London in such conditions--in darkness, or fog, or

in viewless forest--and not one could hold a straight course for

half-a-mile. Within ten minutes each man would be lost, devoid of all

sense of direction. That is part of the price of the higher

civilisation--the loss of a faculty which need not clash with any other.

Of course where people live with a telephone at their ear, with electric

trams and "tubes" close at hand, where a whistle will summon an

attendant hansom and two a taxi-meter--or, as _Punch_ suggested, three

may bring down an airship--well, in such case, those modern "advantages"

may be held to outweigh the loss of a primitive natural faculty.

Hardly had a tardy light begun to strengthen to the dawn than the soft,

soliloquising "Gagga, gagga, gagga," with alternatively the raucous

"Honk-honk," resounded afar through the gloom. From seven o'clock

onwards geese were flying close around--so near that the rustling of

strong wings sounded almost within arm's-length; but that opaque fog

held unbroken and nothing could be seen. Long before eight I resolved to

quit and leave the fowl undisturbed for another morning rather than open

fire at so late an hour. Having a compass, I steered a good line to the

point where the horses awaited me, a mile away.

The following morning again broke foggy, though not quite so thick;

still I had only five geese at eight o'clock, when three packs coming

well in, in rapid succession, afforded three gratifying doubles. Total,

eleven geese.

Leaving the geese a few mornings' peace, on February 5 the authors

together occupied that hole at dawn. It proved a brilliant morning with

a fine show of geese. As each pack came in, we took it in turns to give

the word whether to fire or not. In the negative case, our eyes sank

gently below the surface of the earth, and crouching down we heard the

rush of wind-splitting pinions pass over and behind--probably to offer

a fairer mark when they next wheeled round. Then two, and often three,

great geese came hurtling downwards, to fall with resounding thuds

behind. Few mistakes occurred this morning and scarce a chance was

missed. But never could we succeed in working-in the two doubles at

once! The cramped space forbade that. The hole, having been dug for one,

gave no freedom of action for two guns; its floor, moreover, had now

become a compound of sticky glutinous clay a foot deep, and that further

hampered movements. Only one gun could work the second barrel.

After each shot, one of us jumped out and propped up the fallen geese as

decoys. To leave them lying about all-ends-up has a disastrous effect.

Ere the "flight" ceased we had five-and-twenty greylags down around our

hide, besides several others that had fallen at some distance, duly

marked by the keepers who now galloped off to gather these--say two

mule-loads of geese. The discovery of that lonely "sanding-place" had

had a concrete reward.

[Illustration]

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