"OUR LADY OF THE DEW"
THE PILGRIMAGE TO THE SHRINE OF NUESTRA SEÑORA DEL ROCÍO
Pilgrimages by the pious to distant shrines are a well-known phase in
the faith both of the Moslem and of the Romish Church, and require no
definition by us; but one that is yearly performed to a tiny and
isolated shrine not a dozen miles from our shooting-lodge of Doñana
deserves description.
First as to its origin. Twelve hundred years ago when Arab conquerors
overran Spain much treasure of the churches, with many sacred emblems,
relics, etc., were hurriedly concealed in places of safety. But not
unnaturally, since Moorish domination extended over 700 years, all trace
or record of such hiding-places had long been lost, and it was merely by
chance and one by one that, after the Reconquest, the hidden treasures
were rediscovered.
The story of the recovery of our Lady of the Dew is related to have
occurred in this wise. A shepherd tending his flocks in the
neighbourhood of Almonte was induced by the strangely excited barking of
his dog to force a way into the dense thickets known as La Rocina de la
Madre (a wooded swamp, famous as a breeding-place of the smaller herons,
egrets, and ibises), in the midst of which the dog led him to an ancient
hollowed tree. Here, half-hidden in the cavernous trunk, the shepherd
espied the figure of "a Virgin of rare beauty and of exquisite carving,"
clothed in a tunic of what had been white linen, but now stained dull
green through centuries of exposure to the weather and dew (_rocío_).
Overjoyed, the shepherd, bearing the Virgin on his shoulders, set out
for Almonte, distant three leagues; but being overcome by fatigue and
the weight of his burden, he lay down to rest by the way and fell
asleep. On awakening he found the Virgin had gone--she had returned to
her hollow tree. Having ascertained this, and being now filled with
fear, he proceeded alone to Almonte, where he reported his discovery. At
once the Alcalde and clergy accompanied him to the spot, and finding the
image as related, a vow was then and there solemnised that a shrine,
dedicated to N. S. del Rocío, should be erected at the very spot.
On its being discovered that this Virgin was able to perform miracles
and to grant petitions, her fame soon spread afar, and religious fervour
waxed strong. Thus during the plague of 1649-50, the Virgin having been
removed to Almonte as a safeguard, the inhabitants of that place were
immune from the pestilence, though every other hamlet was decimated. A
second miracle was attributed to the Virgin. Hard by the shrine at Rocío
was a spring of water, but of such poor supply that ordinarily a single
man could empty it within two hours: yet during the three days of the
pilgrimage thousands of men and their horses could all assuage their
thirst.
Owing to these manifestations devout persons endowed the Virgin of Rocío
with considerable sums of money, with which a larger shrine was built,
while sumptuous garments, laces, and embroidery, with jewelry and
precious stones, were provided for her adornment. In addition to this,
Replicas of the original effigy were made and distributed around the
villages of the neighbourhood, particularly the following:--
Kilos.
Palma, distant 32
Moguer " 30
Umbrete " 45
Huelva " 65
Triana " 76
Rota " 55
San Lucar " 45
Villamanrique " 18
Pilas " 23
Almonte " 17
Coria " 44
At each of these and other places, "Brotherhoods" (_Hermandades_),
affiliated to the original at Rocío, were established to guard these
effigies; and it is from these points that every Whitsuntide the various
pilgrim-fraternities journey forth across the wastes towards Rocío, each
Brotherhood bringing its own carved replica to pay its annual homage to
its carved prototype.
* * * * *
In the spring of 1910 the authors attended the _Fiesta_. Already, the
night before, premonitory symptoms--the tuning-up of fife and drum--had
been audible, and during the twelve-mile ride next morning fresh
contingents winding through the scrub-clad plain were constantly
sighted, all converging upon Rocío. It was not, however, till reaching
that hamlet that the full extent of the pilgrimage became apparent, and
a striking and characteristic spectacle it formed. From every point of
the compass were descried long files of white-tilted
ox-waggons--hundreds of them--slowly advancing across the flower-starred
plain; the waggons all bedecked in gala style, crammed to the last seat
with guitar-touching girls, with smiling duennas and attendant squires;
the ox-teams gaily caparisoned, and escorted by prancing cavaliers, many
with wife or daughter mounted pillion-wise behind, while younger
pilgrims challenged impromptu trials of speed--a series of minor
steeplechases. There were four-in-hand brakes, mule-teams and
donkey-carts, pious pedestrians--a motley parade enveloped in clouds of
dust and noise, but all in perfect order.
The following quaint description was written down for us by a Spanish
friend who accompanied us:--
It is at the entry of the various processions that the most
striking and picturesque effects are produced by the cavalcade.
Here one sees displayed the grace and ability of the Amazon--the
robust and comely Andalucian maiden, carried _á ancas_
(pillion-wise) at the back of his saddle by gallant cavalier proud
of his gentle companion, and exhibiting to advantage his skill in
horsemanship. The noble steed, conscious of its onerous part,
carries the double burden with care and spirit, being trained to
curvet and rear in all the bravery of mediæval and Saracenic age.
About 4 P.M., while the converging caravans were yet a mile or so
afield, all halted, each to organise its own procession, and each headed
by the waggon bearing its own Virgin bedecked in gorgeous apparels of
silk and silver braid. Then to the accompaniment of bands and
bell-ringing, hand-clapping and castanets, drum, tambourine, and guitar,
with flags flying and steeds curvetting, this singular combination of
religious rite with musical fantasia resumed its advance into the
village.
Despite the dust and crush not a unit but held its assigned position,
and thus--one long procession succeeding another--the whole concourse
filed into the village, crossed its narrow green, and sought the shrine
where, within the open doors, the Virgin of Rocío, removed from the
altar, was placed to receive the homage of the Brotherhoods. As each
Replica reached the spot, its bearers halted and knelt, while expert
drivers even made their ox-teams kneel down in submission before the
"Queen of Heaven and Earth." There was but a moment's delay, nor did
castanets and song cease for an instant. Later in the evening came the
processions of the Rosario, when each of the visiting Brotherhoods make
a ceremonious call upon the Senior Brother--that is, the Hermit of
Rocío--after which each confraternity, with less ceremony but more
joviality, visited the camps of the others. This last was accompanied by
bands, massed choirs, and _fireworks_. Then the festival resolved
itself, so far as we could judge, into a purely secular
affair--feasting, merry-making, dancing, till far on in the night.
Rain had set in at dusk and was now falling fast. Rocío is but a tiny
hamlet--say two score of humble cots--yet to-night 6000 people occupied
it, the womenfolk sleeping inside their canvas-tilted ox-waggons, the
men lying promiscuously on the ground beneath.
Sunday is occupied with religious ceremonies, beginning with High Mass.
These we will not attempt to describe--nor could we if we would. The
Spanish friend who at our request jotted down some notes on the _Fiesta_
uses the following expressions:--
The days of the Rocío are days of expansion, merry-making,
animation. Never, throughout the festival, ceases the laughter of
joyous voices, the clang of the castanets, the melody of guitar and
tambourine. Dances, song, and music, with jovial intercourse and
good fellowship, all unite to preserve unflagging the rejoicing
which is cultivated at that beautiful spot. At this festival many
traders assist with different installations, including jewellers in
the porch of the church, vendors of medallions, photographs,
coloured ribbons, and other articles dedicated to the patroness of
a festival which is well worthy a visit for its originality and
bewitchment.
On the Monday morning, after joint attendance of all the Brotherhoods at
Mass, followed by a sermon, the image of the Virgin is formally replaced
upon the altar (the feet resting upon the same hollow trunk in which the
figure was first found), then the processions are reformed and the long
homeward journey to their respective destinations begins.
Although many thousands of people yearly attend this festival, all
entirely uncontrolled by any authority, yet quarrels and disturbance are
unknown. The mere cry of "viva la Virgen" suffices at once to appease
incipient angers, should such arise. Thousands of horses and donkeys,
moreover, are allowed to roam about untended and unguarded, as there is
no danger of their being stolen.
* * * * *
The Virgin of the Rocío, it appears, specialises in accidents, and many
votive pictures hung within the shrine illustrate the nature of her
miracles. One man is depicted falling headlong from a fifth-storey
window, another from a lofty pine, a third drowning in a torrential
flood; a lady is thrown by a mule, another run over by a cart, a lad
caught by an infuriated bull; a beatific-looking person stands harmless
amidst fiery forked lightning--apparently enjoying it. From all these
and other appalling forms of death, the survivors, having been saved by
the Virgin's miraculous interposition, have piously contributed
pictorial evidence of the various occurrences.
A somewhat gruesome relic records the incident that a mother having
vowed that should her daughter be restored to life, she should walk to
Rocío in her grave-clothes--and there the said clothes lie as evidence
of that miracle.
The festival above described is celebrated each spring at Pentecost.
There is, however, a second yearly pilgrimage into Rocío which
originated in this wise.
In 1810 when the French occupied this country, the village of Almonte
was held by two troops of cavalry who were engaged in impressing
recruits from among the neighbouring peasantry. These naturally objected
to serve the enemy, but many were terrorised into obedience. Bolder
spirits there were, however, and these, to the number of thirty-six,
resolved to strike a blow for freedom. Having assembled in the thick
woods outside Almonte, at two o'clock one afternoon they fell upon the
unsuspecting French and, ere these could defend themselves, many were
killed and others made prisoners. Finally the French commander was shot
dead on his own doorstep. "The villagers of Almonte were horrified at
what had occurred, for, although they had had no hand in the matter,
they felt sure they would have to bear the blame"--so runs a Spanish
account.
The few French troopers who had escaped fled to Seville, reported the
affair, and (wrongly) incriminated the villagers of Almonte--precisely
as those worthies had foreseen. The General commanding at Seville
ordered that Almonte should be razed to the ground and its inhabitants
beheaded--that being the penalty decreed by Murat for any shedding of
French blood. A detachment of dragoons, despatched to Almonte, had
already taken prisoner the mayor, the priests, and all the chief
inhabitants preparatory to their execution. In this grave situation they
bethought themselves to pray to the Virgin of Rocío, promising that if
she would rescue them from their deadly peril, they would institute a
new pilgrimage to her shrine for thanksgiving.
Already the detachment of French soldiers detailed to carry out the
executions had reached Pilas, a village within six leagues of Almonte,
when, by mere coincidence, a handful of Spanish troops flung themselves
against the French positions at Seville. The French, thinking that their
assailants must be the forerunners of a larger army, hurriedly recalled
all their outposts, including those commissioned to destroy Almonte!
Thus the wretched Alcalde and his fellow-prisoners were saved; for,
their innocence of the "crime" being presently established, the town was
let off with a fine. Since then, in accordance with the promise made 100
years ago, the whole of Almonte repairs every 7th of August to the
shrine of Nuestra Señora del Rocío.
[Illustration: PRAYING MANTIS (_Mantis religiosa_)]