CHAPTER XXVI

_São Paulo_

Unlike most of the State capitals of Brazil, São Paulo lies some

distance inland, but in close touch with its port Santos, some

thirty-five miles distant. Many passengers travelling by the Royal Mail

steamers bound for the Argentine, disembark at Rio and take the train

from the Central Railway Station across country to São Paulo, rejoining

their steamer at Santos. This variation is not only a pleasant break in

the voyage, but affords the opportunity for viewing the most thriving

and prosperous city in South America.

The journey by rail from Rio to São Paulo occupies about twelve hours in

a sleeping or observation car, equalling if not excelling anything of

the kind in Europe. The separate two-berth cabins provided with electric

light and fans will be appreciated by the most experienced railway

travellers accustomed to the latest improvements in the way of comfort.

The first part of the journey is through a hilly country, with immense

woods and thick undergrowth of tropical vegetation, covering the earth

as with a vivid green mantle as far as the eye can reach. Numbers of

curious trees with fantastically twisted stems reaching to a height of

100 to 150 feet tower above the dense masses of tangled foliage, tall

palms of many varieties with fan-shaped leaves, and straight smooth

trunks, grow side by side with dwarfed bushy shrubs, over which great

banana leaves bend with their own weight, whilst magnificent flowers and

orchids of brilliant colour peep out from the dark recesses of the

woods, sparkling like jewels in a mass of lovely hair.

As São Paulo is neared, the tropical luxuriance fades, and nature’s wild

and prolific garden is replaced by the ordered arrangements of man’s

industry, for this State is the best farmed as well as the most thickly

populated in all Brazil. Its staple industry produces at least one half

of all the coffee consumed in the world to-day, besides which its people

gather large harvests of sugar, cotton, grapes, tobacco, and several

kinds of cereals, principally rice and wheat.

This agricultural prosperity is due to several causes: a kindly climate,

a regular rainfall, a natural system of irrigation, and an increasingly

industrious population from all parts of Europe.

The workers in this State pursue their occupations amidst the fairest

surroundings, and in an environment well calculated to induce happiness

and contentment. The air is clear, the climate mild, the sun shines

brightly, the scenery is varied and cheerful, whilst the social element

so necessary to civilised beings is full of charming diversity.

The capital of the State takes second place amongst the cities of

Brazil, and like the Federal capital has in recent years undergone many

changes. Much of it has been already rebuilt, and more is undergoing

alteration. New buildings, imposing and exhibiting the latest styles of

architecture, have largely replaced the old Portuguese colonial houses

which, although solid, were rather lugubrious and forbidding.

The replanning of the city has the enthusiastic support of all the

inhabitants, and not a few of the more prosperous citizens have evinced

a public-spirited generosity in their contributions to the beautifying

of their city. The work that has already been done, and that still going

on, is worthy of the magnificent site which the city occupies between

two great mountain ranges, the Serra do Mar and the Mantiqueira, the

peaks of the latter rising from 2000 to 2500 feet above the level of the

sea. Two rivers take their rise in these hills, the Paranapanema which

flows in a westerly direction and forms the boundary between Parana and

São Paulo States, and the Tieté which in a north-westerly direction

flows right through the latter State. Both these large rivers are but

tributaries of the Parana, the great waterway of the interior of the

continent.

The State extends over an area of more than 112,000 square miles, and

its climate varies in the different zones, which have strongly marked

and differing characteristics.

The low-lying lands which border on the coast at the foot of the eastern

Serra are marshy swamps, a region of damp heat uncongenial to man but

excellent for the cultivation of rice. The humid, steamy air of the

littoral is in strong contrast to the agreeable conditions on the

plateau upon which the capital stands. The intermediate region of the

Serra do Mar is covered with dense vegetation, subject to heavy rains,

whilst mists continually envelop the hills, and the sun shines but

seldom through the thick vapours. Frost and hail are not uncommon on the

Serra, and even snow is not unknown.

[Illustration: THE ROAD TO SÃO PAULO FROM RIO.]

But it is the plateau between the Serra and the Parana that possesses

the most favourable climate, for although the temperature varies

slightly it is always agreeable and pleasant, being neither too hot nor

too cold. This plateau is perhaps the most fertile and productive in the

great continent, which abounds with favoured regions, and its great

prosperity gives some indication of its popularity with European

settlers.

The early history of the State of São Paulo has a romance running

through its pages which can never cease to be of interest, and the

beginnings of its prosperity are traceable to the friendly relationships

established in the beginning of the sixteenth century between a

shipwrecked Portuguese sailor, João Ramalho, and Tybiricá, the chief of

the Guayanás, a tribe who dominated the country.

Ramalho married the chief’s daughter, and this alliance cemented a

friendship with the chief and his tribe, over which the castaway soon

acquired so great an influence that when Martin Affonso arrived at the

head of an expedition he met with a friendly welcome. For his good

offices Ramalho was rewarded by the Portuguese Crown with a grant of the

lands which he and the tribe were occupying, the new-comers establishing

a settlement at St. Vincente, near Santos, and erecting a fort on the

island of St. Amaro at the entrance to the bay. From the union between

the Portuguese settlers and the Guayanás there sprang the race of

half-breeds known first as Mamelucos and later as Paulistas, a race that

accomplished much in the exploration and development of various parts of

Brazil.

The village of St. Andre, where Ramalho and his father-in-law Tybiricá

lived, rapidly grew until in 1533 it was raised to the position of a

town, and these two settlements of St. Vincente and St. Andre were the

forerunners of the cities of Santos and São Paulo which afterwards arose

upon adjacent sites.

The Jesuits, who arrived upon the scene in 1554, proved an important

factor in suppressing the invasions of savage tribes who threatened the

little colonies from time to time, and in organising the settlements by

the construction of a road connecting that at the coast with the mission

station which they established at São Paulo. This mission station grew

in power and importance until finally it usurped the position of St.

Andre, which was destroyed at the instigation of the priests.

The history of the two succeeding centuries is filled with the contests

between the lay Paulistas and the Jesuits, their methods being in

constant opposition, for whilst the former desired native labour to

cultivate their lands and work their industries, they found that the

missions absorbed most if not all of the available natives. These were

gathered under the protection of the missions upon the communistic plan

so successfully practised under the Jesuits in other parts of the

continent, the natives meeting with fair and considerate treatment,

although practically reduced to the position of slaves working for the

common good. The laymen sought to bring the natives into the condition

of slaves for their own personal interest, and to treat them as property

to be used for their own aggrandisement, and professed to see little or

no difference in their doing individualistically what the Church did

communistically.

The association of the whites and their half-Indian progeny with the

pure native Indians was also the cause of much dissension, and led to

numbers of the latter withdrawing from the settlements and forming new

ones antagonistic to the invaders. In all the quarrels Tybiricá stood

loyally by his son-in-law’s fellow-countrymen, and even fought against

his own brother when the latter led an attack upon São Paulo.

[Illustration: THE APPROACH TO SANTOS.]

As the Mamelucos grew in numbers their demands for native labour

increased, and its monopoly by the Jesuits came to be a grievance which

the laymen determined to redress. Raids upon the Indians of the interior

were consequently organised, and the adventurous Paulistas did not

hesitate to risk their lives in the pursuit of tribes as far as the

borders of Bolivia after the nearer districts had been cleared of

natives, and in these expeditions even the mission settlements of the

Guayaná were not spared. Immense numbers of natives were captured and

brought down to the markets of São Paulo for sale, many of them being

purchased to supply the demands of neighbouring States.

As this slave hunting went on unrestrained, the Jesuits removed their

missions further west to escape the attentions of their enemies; but in

1641 a large party of the Paulistas invaded the Paraguayan missions and

bore away many natives as captives. These Paulistas had become

adventurous, and hardy, past belief, and were the most energetic race in

the whole continent, opening up much of the country in the course of

their expeditions--discovering diamonds in Minas, gold in Maranhão, and

laying the foundations of towns and villages wherever they went.

When the emancipation of the Indian (not the negro) slaves was decreed

in 1758, the energies of this indefatigable people, checked in one

direction, were turned towards exploration for a period, and it was not

until the beginning of the nineteenth century, when their country was

opened up to the trade of the world, that they found fresh and congenial

outlets for their enterprise.

During the whole of the last century immigration has flowed steadily

into the country, and its abundant agricultural wealth has been

developed with a steady persistence. The virile peoples from the Old

World, who have flocked into the State, have been rapidly absorbed by

the Paulistas, and a conglomerate race, made up of many elements, now

populates the country. The energy of the Paulista resembles that of the

American of the United States, and the activity in the city of São Paulo

is remarked by all who have compared it with Rio and other towns in

different parts of Brazil.

* * * * *

The city of São Paulo is full of pleasant surprises. Its three principal

streets, the Rua São Bento, Rua Quinze de Novembro, and Rua Direita,

form a triangle in the busiest part of the city, and are narrow, crowded

thoroughfares, the electric cars taking up the principal part of the

roadways, which in business hours become so congested that progress is

very slow, both for pedestrians and vehicular traffic.

Many of the shops are fine, and contain a goodly display of wares, but

prices are high. Their harvest season is somewhat restricted, owing to

the large number of feast days or holidays throughout the year, in

addition to the Sundays, upon which

[Illustration: GOVERNMENT BUILDINGS IN THE LARGO DE PALACIO.]

the bulk of the shops are closed. In the case of tobacconists Sunday

closing is rigorously enforced, and the multitude of smokers have to lay

in their supplies for the week-end. It is on a Sunday or a festa day

that the crowds in the street are most interesting, for then the folk

come out in their gala clothes on pleasure and amusement bent. There is

no uniformity whatever in the costumes worn by either sex. Bare-headed

women wearing fur boas, men wearing overcoats, others clad in white

drill suits and straw hats or black felt head-gear, parade the streets

in an ever changing stream. The car conductors, in grey uniforms with

gold facings, are kept busy attending to the human freights, whilst

policemen, in black with red facings, direct the traffic with small,

white batons, as in Paris. Lottery ticket vendors yell their wares in

competition with purveyors of sweets, cakes, and pastries, whose yellow

delicacies tempt the flies and children who swarm around, the former

brushed off with large feather brushes, the latter encouraged by glowing

entreaties. Everything looks new here, even traditions and customs from

the Old World seeming to undergo a change. In the crowds at the street

corners the men are mostly garbed in black, but the women affect all the

colours of the rainbow.

White dresses predominate, but blues, magentas, yellows, pinks, greens,

and faded vermilions are freely admixed, varied with yellow and red

kerchiefs and purple shawls. Here a group of four or five mules ridden

by bare-footed countrymen in blue trousers, there shaggy yellow ponies,

sun-faded and mud-stained, brush through and rub against the

holiday-making crowd. Yonder, on the steps leading up to the gardens,

sits an Italian, munching his midday meal of bread, cheese, and olives.

In these gardens, in front of the President’s palace, are many curious

and beautiful trees, amongst them two stately oaks with the freshest of

green leaves, soft and delicate, as in early summer.

The palms and ferns, cut and cropped into fantastic shapes, mingle with

the cactus, which needs no such attention. In the shady bowers are

welcome resting-places, where the wearied sit in the patches of sunlight

that splash warm upon them through the branches, reading the papers in

French, Italian, and Portuguese, smoking eternally, conversing

frequently, and moving but seldom. Flower-sellers move here and there,

offering tempting bunches of the loveliest pansies, violets, and roses,

and add colour to the scene. The singing of birds, the tinkling of the

car bells, the hum of voices, the strident cries of the hawkers, all

mingle on the sunny Sunday morn, and a happier-looking city and people

it would be difficult to imagine.

A favourite jaunt with the Sunday or holiday crowd--Italians, negroes,

Portuguese, Germans, Paulistas, and English--is a run on the car from

the Largo do Sé to the gardens and museum at Ypiranga. The journey

occupies about half an hour, and the route runs through the Square of

15th September, along the Rua do Gloria, with its small one-story

houses, past the abattoir, through boulevards planted on either side

with trees, to the suburbs, where building is going on in all

directions, the workmen busy at their jobs, although it is Sunday.

Outside the town are market gardens and fields with green grass and

rich, red soil, firs and pines on all sides, cattle browsing in the

meadowland, rose-covered villas and factories springing up amidst the

green fields.

Most of the occupants of the cars descend at the gardens of the

Ypiranga, in the grounds of which are wide walks, raised terraces, lined

with cypress trees, and well laid out beds of flowers and shrubs of all

varieties.

The museum is built upon the spot where the independence of Brazil was

proclaimed in 1822 by the Prince Dom Pedro, who, on learning of the

refusal of the Cortes at Lisbon to listen respectfully to the Brazilian

delegates, impetuously gave utterance to the famous cry, “Independence

or Death!” and was shortly afterwards proclaimed constitutional Emperor

of Brazil.

[Illustration: THE NATIONAL MUSEUM AT YPIRANGA.]

The museum, erected as a monument to commemorate this historic event, is

a well-designed and imposing building, containing fine staircases and

lofty galleries, in one of which is a huge picture illustrating the

“Independencia ou Morto” incident.

The galleries are filled with collections of various objects of natural

and historical interest such as butterflies and birds, wasps and bees,

with their curious nests, old leather-covered furniture, sedan chairs,

cupboards, fourposter beds, and chests of the colonial period.

Amongst the many curious and instructive objects gathered together are

pottery from all parts of the continent, including Colombian, Peruvian,

and Mexican; stuffed fish, weird in shape and marvellous in variety,

taken from the rivers; lizards, chameleons, turtles, alligators, and

snakes. Here, too, are specimens of the feathers and ornaments worn by

the savage Indian tribes of the State of São Paulo, head-dresses of

yellow feathers, necklaces of human teeth, collars of green parrot

feathers and beetles’ wings, and of beadwork mixed with feathers.

The instruments, warlike and peaceful, of the native tribes are also

well represented, such as clubs, bows and arrows, stone hammers,

baskets, crudely made straw hats, a curious fire-making appliance

consisting of spindle revolving in a disc; native panpipes, calabashes,

and mats.

Amongst the stuffed animals are such curiosities or freaks as a calf

with only two legs, and another with two heads.

The Paulistas, imbued with the spirit of freedom, have bestowed upon

many of their streets and squares the names of patriots and public

benefactors, as witness the Avenue Tiradentes, which perpetuates the

name and fame of one of the ardent spirits of the eighteenth century,

who ever strove to rouse the nation to throw off the yoke of Portugal.

Tiradentes, although not the leader of the conspiracy which failed,

nevertheless was a martyr to the cause and was beheaded, drawn, and

quartered, his head exposed to the public gaze in Ouro Preto, and his

house there burned to the ground. He was the first republican to shed

his blood in the cause of Brazilian independence, but not till a century

after his death was the aim accomplished.

Throughout the city such names as Avenida Rangel Pestana and Rua

Visconda do Rio Branco testify to the esteem in which the inhabitants

hold their public men.

In striking contrast to the narrower streets is the Viaducto Clia, a

broad avenue that leads to the new part of the city where everything is

on a magnificent scale, with squares and avenues of which any city might

well be proud. The valley which separates the old city from the new was

undergoing great alterations during my visit, vast business palaces

springing up on this beautiful

[Illustration: THE THEATRE OF S. PAULO.]

site. Overlooking this valley, which is being laid out tastefully as a

public garden, stands the Municipal Theatre, one of the finest buildings

in the country, built at a cost of nearly half a million sterling. It is

a fine monument to the wisdom, skill, and taste of its projectors,

engineers, and architects, and from its commanding position compares

more than favourably with its rival in Rio. The interior is elaborately

decorated. Marble staircases, handsome balustrades, gilded columns,

white and gold walls, and frescoed ceilings all enrich the imposing

vestibule. The foyer is a spacious apartment, seen at its best when a

dance is going forward. It was my good fortune to be present at a ball

given by its inhabitants in honour of its architect, Dr. Ramos de

Azevedo, and Señor Antonio Prado, who was Mayor of the city when the

theatre was commenced. Exquisite floral decorations were lavished upon

the staircase, corridors, and ballrooms, thousands of electric lamps

being dotted everywhere amidst the flowers.

The brilliance of the ladies’ costumes set off with sparkling diamonds

gave an added animation to a scene which equalled if it did not surpass

the grand functions in Rio, where one is used to costly and elaborate

displays.

The Largo do Palacio is a pleasing square which overlooks a great

stretch of the surrounding country, and is formed by the President’s

Palace and the administration buildings of Justice, Agriculture, and

Finance, an imposing and quiet retreat on the margin of the busiest part

of the city. But São Paulo is rich in fine buildings, schools, technical

colleges, and institutes testifying to the educational facilities

afforded to all classes of the community. Hospitals and asylums evince

care for the sick and mentally afflicted. Government enterprise in the

erection of these buildings has been ably seconded by private

munificence, and the Escola de Commerco Alvares Penteado is a good

example of the public spirit displayed by the citizens. This fine

building, presented to the town by the Condé de Penteado, occupies the

whole side of one of its squares, and its good and pleasant proportions

are in the style associated with the latest architectural movements on

the continent of Europe. The Condé has done much to embellish the city,

and his private residence, the Villa Penteado, in the suburb of

Hygienopolis, is one of the most notable of the hundreds of luxurious

mansions that adorn the surrounding avenues.

This villa is in reality a palace quite in harmony with the progress of

the city. The design reflects modernity of taste down to its minutest

details, and the happy use that has been made of native woods in the

internal decorations and fittings is truly ingenious. Its owner, a

notable figure in São Paulo, has had much to do with the cultivation of

coffee, for, inheriting estates of growing importance, he was not

content to remain a “fazendero,” but entered into the field of industry

with all the keenness characteristic of the Paulistas, and inaugurated

one of the largest jute mills in Brazil. His son, the Condé Sylvia,

follows close in his father’s footsteps, being a thorough believer in

the Gospel of Work, and presents the rare spectacle of a young man of

fortune energetically forcing his way to the front as a captain of

industry.

[Illustration: THE PENTEADO TECHNICAL COLLEGE.]

The Paulistas have built and developed so many fine buildings and

institutions that there can be no doubt of their ability to give fitting

expression to their high ideals, whilst numerous beautiful residences

give ample evidence of their good taste, and would attract attention in

almost any city in the world.

The Minister of Justice, Dr. Washington Luiz, has control of a

department of the State which is of the greatest importance to the

community. All vehicles, cars, carts, carriages, and wagons are licensed

under this department, and an efficient method of inspection is in

operation. Similarly porters, newsvendors, sellers of lottery tickets,

chauffeurs, and hawkers are all obliged to take out licences

[Illustration: THE VILLA PENTEADO.]

that are registered in the card catalogues of the department. The system

of identification cards, with photographs and fingerprints of the

owners, has been brought to a high state of perfection. All known

criminals are filed for reference in a separate register from that which

is kept for ordinary civilians who for purposes of travel desire to

possess a proper certificate of identification. Another card catalogue

kept up to date contains full particulars of all houses of business

occupied only during the daytime, and the private addresses where the

owners can be communicated with at once in the event of fire, burglary,

or other unusual occurrence. To aid the police a most wonderful

telephonic system has been installed throughout the city and suburbs, so

that every constable on beat can always put himself in communication

with headquarters should need arise. The street call stations are

attached to posts provided with alarum bells for use by day and electric

lamps that can be switched on at night, in order to call the attention

of the patrol and bring him to the receiver, which is enclosed in a

small box. Keys are provided throughout the force which fit these boxes,

so that whilst the instrument cannot be tampered with every police

officer has access to it, and outlying patrols can summon aid from

headquarters, or in turn be hailed whenever necessary. A tape machine at

headquarters automatically registers all calls that take place, noting

the minute, hour, and date by a series of punctures, thus keeping the

record and identification of calls from the various stations.

Motor ambulances, prison vans, and fire-engines can be brought at the

shortest possible notice to any part of the town and district within a

mile radius, and the equipment of all the “public assistance” motor

vehicles is most efficient and up to date. The very latest models of

motor-drawn fire-engines, escapes, and wagonettes are held in readiness

at the fire-stations, all of which are in telephonic communication with

hundreds of call offices throughout the city; indeed, a finer system has

not been installed in any town of importance. Great attention is paid to

fire drill, a dummy wooden house of four stories being used at the

central station for the men to practise upon.

The army of the State, officered and drilled by a French mission, is,

although small, one of the most efficient in the Union. The military

bearing of the men when on parade and their workmanlike evolutions in

camp and field compare more than favourably with those of the Federal

troops themselves. In the early morning companies in their canvas

working garb may be seen busy at drill in the fields around the city,

and the officers are justly proud of their men’s accomplishments. The

barracks or caserne is a large and commodious range of buildings, with

stabling attached for the mules and horses, a veterinary hospital,

fitting and repairing shops, riding school, fencing rooms, and

gymnasium, all kept up to a high standard, and but for the language

spoken by the men the visitor might easily imagine himself in the

“caserne” of a French town.

The duty of preserving order devolves upon a police force which is

drilled upon the military system, which apparently well fits them for

the carrying out of their civil duties, and few cities in South America

can boast of public servants who are better trained or who exhibit as

much _esprit de corps_ as the soldiers, police, and firemen of São

Paulo.

Another State department deserving of the highest praise is that of

agriculture, presided over by Dr. Padua Salles, a man of exceptional

ability and delightful personality, who has done much to enlarge the

influence and usefulness of the department under his charge.

[Illustration: OFFICERS OF THE SÃO PAULO ARMY.]

Under his direction the principal interest of the country, its

agricultural development, is well fostered and cared for. Much has been

accomplished in the exploration and development of the vast hinterland,

which it will take time and patience to cover fully. Maps and statistics

of the rivers Tieté, Ribeira de Iguape, Juqueryquerê, Feio, and

Aguapehy, have been drawn, compiled, and published by the

Commissao-Geographica E Geologica, and a splendid reference library and

publication department are at the free disposal of all desiring the

fullest information regarding the State and the opportunities it offers

to the investor. Its climate is inviting to Europeans, and is especially

popular with Italians, who flock thither in large numbers, and have

every provision made for their reception and encouragement. Hotels are

provided for the accommodation of immigrants until they have chosen

their location and settled therein. Schools and colleges for technical

and agricultural instruction abound. The Agricultural College at

Piracicaba, about 150 miles north-west of São Paulo, is one of the best

equipped of its kind; whilst the Fazenda Modelo, or model farm, covers

an area of 800 acres, upon which almost every useful and profitable crop

is grown with splendid results.

[Illustration: A WATERFALL NEAR SÃO PAULO.]

Besides the staple product, coffee, São Paulo produces plentiful crops

of corn, rice, beans, sugar-cane, cotton, and tobacco, whilst manioc, or

cassava, Irish and sweet potatoes, arrowroot, oats, and field peas are

largely cultivated. Coffee however, is almost the only agricultural

product exported from the State, for the others barely supply the home

demand. Of the industries dependent upon the produce of the country

mention must be made of the distillation of “aguardiente,” or cane

whisky, and the manufacture of sugar, a number of factories existing for

the production of these commodities, as well as for cotton-weaving, the

supplying of rectified spirits from corn, and the utilising of textile

fibres in the making of bags, carpeting, and twine. Grape-growing has

been started and experiments made to ascertain the variety of grape

likely to yield the best result, and a vine has been produced specially

adapted for the prevailing climatic conditions and which resists all

vine diseases.

[Illustration: THE WHARVES OF SANTOS.]

São Paulo is especially fortunate in possessing in the waterfalls on its

rivers an abundant supply of power for the generating of electricity

wherewith to drive machinery, propel tramcars, and illuminate houses,

shops, factories, and streets, and this should prove a most potent

factor in the growing development of the State.

When it is remembered that the most productive part of the State is

situated more than a hundred miles from the sea and, moreover, upon a

plateau or tableland which is from 1800 to 3000 feet above sea-level,

some conception can be formed

[Illustration: THE DOCKS OF SANTOS.]

of the difficulties which had to be overcome in connection with the

transport of produce for export from the port of Santos. These

difficulties have, however, been successfully overcome by the São Paulo

Railway, one of the most extraordinary in the world. It connects the

port of Santos with the town of Jundiahi, one hundred miles inland, and

the capital city São Paulo lies about midway between the termini. In

making the ascent of the Serro do Mar such steep gradients are

accomplished that a climb of 2600 feet is achieved within a distance of

five miles. This is effected by means of wire ropes wound upon

stationary engines, which pull the trains up and down over a distance of

six miles through extremely beautiful scenery. Over this short line

passes all the immense export of coffee and other produce which leaves

the State through its port of Santos. This port was, not longer than

twenty-five years ago, one of the worst in the world with regard to that

terrible scourge yellow fever, and shipowners dreaded to send their

vessels thither to have their crews oftentimes entirely carried off and

the ships delayed for months at a time, unable to obtain hands to man

them. But all that has passed away, thanks largely to the improvements

carried out by Gaffrée Guinle and Co., now the Santos Docks Company.

Although low-lying and steamy, Santos is to-day quite a healthy city of

some 30,000 inhabitants, and the largest coffee emporium in the world.

Situated in a fine harbour, its wharf front extends for nearly three

miles, and is provided with hydraulic and other machinery for

manipulating the freights of the ocean liners that lie alongside. The

city to-day has spread itself across wide, flat land at the foot of the

hills, and is well provided in the matter of water supply and

sanitation, whilst its broad, straight streets are well paved and

electrically lit. It is well furnished, too, in respect of schools and

institutions, churches, consulates, libraries, and clubs, and is,

moreover, in complete telegraphic communication with the interior of the

State and the rest of the world. After a stay in the State of São Paulo,

sufficiently prolonged to permit of an acquaintance with the industry

and enterprise of its citizens, the delightfulness of its climate, the

abundant fertility of its soil, and the beauty of its scenery, one sails

from the port of Santos with a feeling of regret at leaving so fair a

clime, and with a conviction that its prosperity will yet enhance and

carry it to a high position amongst the states of the world.

A Tour Through South America · 第 26 / 29 章