“_A City of Paradise_”
Rio has one of the most enviable positions in the world. The only other
site occupied by a city of any magnitude that can compare to it is that
of Sydney, in New South Wales. But Rio harbour has perhaps superior
claims to loveliness than that of Sydney by reason of the endless
mountain peaks that encompass its vast waters. The innumerable islands
that rise up out of the rippled surface are richly clad with all the
varieties of a tropical vegetation. The views are endless, each seeming
to challenge comparison with any rival. Language almost fails to
describe the beauty of the scenery. The infinite variety of the shapes
and contours of its bays and islands as seen from the summit of
Corcovada is an ever fruitful source of charm. Ships are but mere dots
upon its surface when viewed from the distant heights of the surrounding
hills, battleships but tiny specks and smaller craft invisible to the
naked eye. The harbour is one of the largest and safest in the world,
with an entrance nearly a mile in width. This entrance lies between a
rugged mountain chain that encircles all the bay and two forts, the São
Joã and the Sante Cruz, guard the passage into these bewitching waters.
All around are the eternal hills, grotesque and strangely shaped, and
covered with the lively greens of tropical verdure. No artist’s eye is
required to appreciate the concentrated splendour under the changing
lights and shadows, the marvellous panorama is veritably superb, and the
islets in the great bay might well be those imagined by Tennyson,
“Summer isles of Eden lying in dark purple spheres of sea.” The
landscapes could only possibly be properly delineated by a panorama on a
gigantic scale, but even the most perfect would fail to excite the mind
in any degree approximating to the actuality. The subtle aspects of
exotic
[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO RIO HARBOUR.]
growth and vegetation, the wild, disordered beauty of nature’s
arrangements, the rich-growing wilderness of tropical greenery that
springs up everywhere is past belief. When examined closer, the
vegetation upon the islands and the mountain slopes is bewildering in
its profusion. The colour of all nature, under the tropical sun which
shines through the misty haze of the moist heated atmosphere, is full of
mystery and charm. The forms that the giant trees assume, with
innumerable parasites clinging to them, are indescribable. Tall palms,
feathery bamboos wafted by the gentlest breezes, give a sense of life
even on the calmest days. Rio is a fitting mistress for an exuberant
poet, for he could never weary of versing her charms, extolling her
exceeding beauty, or revelling in her enchantment. Its shores and its
mountain slopes, the fascination of their varied aspects, provoke his
enthusiasm at every turn. They possess wonders that can never stale,
charms that can never tire. Even if this world-famed harbour is entered
when night has hidden the wonders of its mountains from view, the scene
is most impressive; the countless lights from the houses that twinkle
like ground stars along the shores of Rio and Nictheroy, up the
hill-sides and from the hundreds of boats that lie scattered in the bay,
form an arrangement of singular loveliness. The lights on the shore
follow the lines of the new esplanade, Avenida Beira-mar, from the city
right out to Botofogo, and on the other side of the bay, those of
Nictheroy twinkle back to them. Small steam launches, distinguishable
only by their lights, rush about, and the air is filled with the
shrieking of their whistles and sirens. The arrival of a mail steamer at
night is the occasion for this nocturnal activity on the part of boatmen
ever on the look-out to pick up a good fare, and as the mail steamers
lie far out from the landing stage, passengers have no choice but to
avail themselves of these harbour pirates, whose craft flock round the
gangways as soon as the ship comes to anchor. Fire balloons float in the
air, and rockets hiss and leave their trail of sparks behind them, as
they rush on their upward flight.
It was on New Year’s Day, 1502, that Goncalo Coelho and his crew sailed
into this silent bay. Theirs were not the first eyes to behold its
wonders, for they found its shores peopled by a wild, savage race, who
lived in their rude villages set amongst the fairest of surroundings.
The bay was christened by the Portuguese “Rio de Janeiro,” or “River of
January.” This name, which is in no way applicable to the bay, which has
no river near it, is a matter for some surprise. The investigations of
the Portuguese must have been of a very cursory nature, for they do not
seem to have remained long enough to grasp the extent of the harbour
they had discovered. They named it, however, and the name has stuck, and
even the natives of Rio to-day are called “Fluminenses,” after the river
that does not exist. The flat ground which winds round the foot of the
hills, and upon which the city now stands, was formerly a mangrove
swamp, of which nothing remains to-day. The city now covers an area of
eight to nine square miles, and has nearly a million inhabitants. For
centuries almost, indeed, until the beginning of the present one, the
city, although in such beautiful surroundings, was extremely dirty and
badly laid out. The streets were mean and shabby, for even the
fashionable and prosperous Rua do Ouvidor is a mere alley. During the
early part of the last century the city was proverbial for its
filthiness, but it
[Illustration: THE SUMMIT OF CORCOVADA, RIO.]
gradually emerged from its grime and squalor, its streets were paved,
and its sanitation improved. But it was not until the beginning of the
present century that the Government and people awoke and with a feverish
energy set about rebuilding and beautifying their city, until it was
transformed out of all recognition. Hundreds of narrow, dirty streets
have been pulled down, to make way for the Avenida Central, a long
avenue of fine buildings which would grace any of the great cities of
the modern world. Many of the worst streets in the city have been swept
away, and in their place broad thoroughfares full of fine, if somewhat
ornate buildings, have been laid down. To-day there are miles of
spacious boulevards and shaded avenues, with well-paved asphalt roads
and walks, all lit by electricity. The magnificent Avenida Beira-mar,
which runs from the southern end of the Avenida Central to Botofogo, a
distance of nearly five miles, has few equals in the world. Along its
asphalt track countless motor-cars race at a breakneck speed. Fine
residences have been erected along this avenue, the “art nouveau” styles
of France and Germany being the most popular. The modern houses in the
suburbs of Rio make up in depth what they lack in width, and they have
fine suites of rooms tastefully decorated and furnished with the latest
fashions. The
[Illustration: “THE SILENT BAY.”]
extravagantly ornamental frontages evince the Brazilian taste for show
and showy things. The town is very straggling and winding, on account of
the many hills that break into the plateau on which the city stands. But
the vistas and views that the irregularity of the plan introduces are an
ample compensation for the detours round the buttresses of the mountain
range. At the end of the Avenida stands a very graceful white building,
the Monroe Palace, in which the Pan-American Congress was held in 1906,
and a little further down the magnificent Municipal Theatre, modelled
somewhat on the lines of the Paris Opera House. The best companies from
Paris and the Continent find in it a stage and auditorium equal to
anything they have been accustomed to. Unfortunately, the municipal
authorities have not equipped their expensively built Opera Palace with
scenery to match. The stage properties are exceedingly inadequate and
inappropriate for such a theatre, and the companies who sometimes
perform in it. The stage is enormous, and the actors’ dressing and
retiring rooms lofty and well devised. The interior is handsomely
decorated although it is hardly equal to the new theatre in São Paulo,
which is the finest theatre in South America. At the other side of the
Avenida Central stands the new National Library, which contains a
quarter of a million volumes, and next to it the Palace of Fine Arts,
both imposing buildings. In the latter there is plenty of room for more
works of art. There are in the Avenida many handsome buildings and many
styles; the newspaper offices are conspicuous, those of _La Paiz_, _The
Journal do Commercio_, and the _Journal do Brazil_ stand out
prominently from other buildings. The large classic building with
gilded capitals at the northern extremity of this avenue, is the
Treasury, which was built to hold the gold bullion, held as guarantee
against the paper currency of the republic. The “Ouvidor,” which,
although renamed, still goes by its original appellation, is a narrow,
crowded thoroughfare. Its shops are among the best in the city, however,
and the fashionable inhabitants throng its pavements in the afternoons.
It holds much the same position in Rio as the “Florida” does in Buenos
Ayres, although it is not so extensive as the latter. Perhaps the most
striking feature in both of these streets is the enormous prices charged
for their wares. The fashions from Paris find a ready sale in Rio, and
the more daring they are the greater are their chances of success.
Nothing in a French mode would shock a “Fluminense,” but they are very
particular in seeing that their wives and daughters are properly
escorted when they go abroad. A young lady would never dream of walking
or even talking in public to a male friend of the family unless a proper
chaperon were present. The old, almost Oriental, customs of Portugal and
Spain still persist, even in their emancipated colonies. Until women are
treated with more respect and less suspicion they will never have the
influence upon the country that they undoubtedly possess in other
civilised lands. The social functions in Rio are many and varied. During
the winter months of June, July, and August many dances and receptions
are given by the different clubs, such as the “Naval,” “Military,” and
“Engineers,” as well as by the legations and by private persons. These
functions are attended by all the notables, and form the principal
entertainments of the city. Every night the social Brazilian butterflies
of fashion have somewhere to go, and the gatherings are very largely
attended by foreigners and visitors. Birthday parties are really
popular, and at these crushes the host is usually overwhelmed with
embraces and gifts, the latter compensating in some measure for the
trying ordeal of standing for hours receiving speeches and replying to
them. The Brazilian inherits from his Latin ancestors the gifts of a
fluent speaker, and is very ready to give a free play to this talent,
which the slightest occasion will provoke him to display. At the private
theatricals, plays and playlets are generally given in French and
children are pushed forward to show their skill, which
[Illustration: A SUBURBAN STREET, RIO.]
is warmly appreciated by their elders. Enthusiastic and unstinted praise
is lavished upon their efforts. Art, literature, music, and the sciences
find many devotees in Brazilian society, and even the driest of lectures
is patiently listened to by large audiences of both sexes. Music they
love, but poetry is their passion. There are few amongst the educated
classes in Rio who do not at some time or other in their lives compose
odes, sonnets, or lyrics, and feel prouder of their poetic achievements
than of any other. Almost every man of the better classes is a Dr., and
foreigners above the rank of labourers and artisans are generally
accepted as possessing this distinction at least. It may be that it is
only politeness and not ignorance that bestows this title upon
strangers, and it should be looked upon as an intended compliment. The
Brazilian is warm-hearted, generous, punctilious in the observances of
the most formal etiquette, and although he can unbend with the freedom
of a schoolboy, care must always be taken not to trespass upon this
characteristic, or to wound his inordinate vanity. Many of them who have
travelled and had the advantages of superior education through
intercourse with the public men and leaders of society of other
countries, have a greater dignity and wider sympathies, and are less
likely to make the mistakes of their less fortunate fellow-countrymen,
who cannot see their limitations or realise their national defects. The
rapid realisation of the wealth of the enormous States of Brazil shows
to most advantage in Rio, for the moneyed classes, governors, and
politicians of all the vast territory forgather in the capital. The
Brazilians are impetuous, and very ready to embark upon great
undertakings, many of which are only practicable in their fervid
imaginations. They have been held back by the long, unprogressive policy
of their mother country Portugal and the severe handicap of slavery.
Even under the Empire small progress was made, considering the size of
their country and the extensiveness of their resources. But since the
establishment of the republic, although there have been many ups and
downs and serious difficulties to encounter, they have contrived to make
great headway. The rejuvenation of Rio in the short space of ten years
is sufficient to demonstrate what can be done by a determined people,
and it is little wonder that when they regard the revolution they have
already wrought, they should let their imaginations run to flights that
make an ordinary mind giddy. The governing classes have a population of
half-breeds to deal with, and bring into line with modern progress, and
with such material it is difficult to rapidly accomplish great things.
The importation of European labour may help them to carry many of their
cherished schemes into effect, but it will take years ere the immense
stretches of unexplored territory are brought to yield to the world one
tittle of their indisputable riches. The practical difficulties that the
republic has to face are many, and the very vastness of its sparsely
populated territory is not the least. The Federal Government and those
of the autonomous States do not always see eye to eye, and the needs and
interests of the outlying States are so diversified that it requires
great governmental wisdom to hold them all together. That the Federal
capital should be the seat of political intrigue is only natural, and
States that are largely settled with colonists from every part of Europe
are faced with the conflicting interests and desires of neighbours with
whom they have little in common. Politics enter largely into the life of
the Federal capital. Ever since the first Brazilian Parliament
[Illustration: AVENIDA BEIRA-MAR, RIO.]
met there in 1826, under the Empire of Pedro I, Liberal ideas emanating
from the Parliaments of the world have met with the approval of the best
intellects of the capital. Republican tendencies were fostered by men
whose eyes were turned upon the trend of politics in Europe and the
United States, and the newly forming republics of South America.
Revolutions and revolts occurred in the different States with an
alarming frequency. Wars with neighbouring republics cost the Federal
exchequer many millions, and held back industrial progress. The
emancipation of the slaves was no more popular with the planters and
agriculturists in Brazil than it was with the same classes in the
Southern States of North America, or in the West Indian Islands, and it
took time to bring about such a drastic economic change. The Chamber of
Deputies was formerly the old palace of the Emperor, and stands near the
Caes Pharoux. It is not a pretentious building, nor are the appointments
such as might be expected, but a new Parliament House is projected. The
entrance or antechamber is at the top of an old mahogany staircase, and
the walls are covered with photographs more or less faded of deputies
past and present. An old-fashioned carpet covers the floor of this
landing, which gives entrance to the chamber and to the “Cabinete do
Presidente.” The deputies pass through a small cloak-room to the floor
of the House, a square chamber with seats and benches arranged in a
semicircle. Upon a raised platform facing the deputies sits the
President of the chamber, a brilliant green curtain trimmed with yellow,
the national colours, forming a background. Electric fans whir on either
side. Dark-coloured porters and messengers walk in and out, and seem at
times to outnumber the deputies. Outside in another antechamber, crowds
of citizens wait patiently to interview the deputies on different
subjects, but generally to obtain some favour. The eloquence of the
deputies is their strong point, and the speeches are long, and delivered
with great vehemence. Men of all grades of colour sit cheek by jowl,
very reminiscent of some country court house in a West Indian Island.
The Senate Chamber is situated some distance away on one side of the
beautiful “Praca Republica,” the finest garden in this lovely city. The
palace of the President, formerly the Palacite do Friburgo, stands in a
broad thoroughfare, Rua Cattete, to the north of the city, and although
it has a beautiful garden at the side and back of it, it is not very
imposing. On the balustrade at the top are four stone eagles with
outstretched wings, otherwise the building offers no particular
features. Inside the waiting-rooms are crowded on audience days with
every class of the inhabitants, who patiently wait their turn and
chances to interview the head of the Government. The ancient palace of
Itamarity, where the Minister of Foreign Affairs resides when in Rio, is
modest and unattractive externally, and does not indicate in any way the
magnificence of the interior, admirably fitted for the reception and
entertainment of distinguished diplomats and visitors. It contains a
ballroom decorated with hangings and upholsteries of emerald-green and
gold, a reception-room carried out in yellow, another in rose colour,
whilst a corridor running along the outside of the fine library
overlooks a garden where palms and exotic flowers abound. The late Baron
do Rio Branco had in this palace many and valuable souvenirs of his
travels and illustrious acquaintances, amongst them a large seascape
painted by the unfortunate King Carlos of Portugal, who presented it to
the “Baron.” The Baron de Rio Branco was for many years an idol of the
people of Rio, and enjoyed the reputation amongst them of being a great
authority upon all matters pertaining to foreign affairs. He was perhaps
one of the few men of his time who looked his part to perfection,
bearing a slight physical resemblance to the famous Bismarck. He held
aloof from the internal politics of his country, and for twelve years
held his office in spite of changes of Government and Presidents. His
aloofness from the mob of politicians, whose clamourings and wranglings
he seemed to despise, placed him in a peculiar position, whilst his
efforts to enlarge his country’s dominions and strengthen her army won
him the admiration and gratitude of all classes. He tried to establish a
“German military mission” to Brazil, and although he was unsuccessful,
his advocacy of German instructors for the army may still bear fruit.
That the army and navy of Brazil require to be imbued with a stronger
sense of military duty than they at present possess is amply exemplified
by the many acts of insubordination they have been guilty of in recent
years.
[Illustration: THE SUGAR-LOAF BY NIGHT, RIO.]
The notable improvements in the Federal capital were carried out under
President Penna. He was fortunate in having some
[Illustration: A BIT OF RIO HARBOUR.]
of the ablest men in Brazil in his ministry, who, with the assistance of
the best engineers and architects in the country, set about the
reconstruction of the city. Dr. Lauro Muller (the present Minister for
Foreign Affairs) was responsible for the general plan of the
improvements, and his scheme was worked out in detail by Dr. Paul de
Frontin, one of the most talented and all-round engineers in the
republic, and at present the General Manager of the Central Railway, the
largest in Brazil. Dr. Frontin has had a career crowded with many
successes, and he still finds time to fill the professional chair of
mechanics and astronomy in the National Gymnasium. He has been
associated with nearly all the big engineering schemes in the republic
of recent years, and has built canals, railways, bridges, waterworks,
and docks, as well as opening out the avenues of the capital, which
necessitated the removal of hills that to many would have been
mountains. He has done much to make the new Rio almost worthy of its
magnificent setting. In Rio the automobile has almost supplanted the
“Tilburies,” those curious, old-fashioned gigs, capable of holding only
one passenger, who sits beside the
[Illustration: THE GAVEA, RIO.]
driver, a few specimens of which may still be seen plying for hire.
Electric tramways (called, curiously enough, the “Bond,” by the natives,
who associate them with the bonds that were issued for the capital of
the first companies) run through the winding city and distant suburbs.
These tramways are run by the Rio de Janeiro Light and Power Company,
which owns extensive concessions and properties throughout the State,
including some twenty-two miles of territory on either bank of the
Parahyba River, seventy-five miles distant from the city of Rio, and an
installation fifty miles from the capital, where the Lages River passes
through a narrow ravine about three hundred feet wide, betwixt solid
rock. Here a dam has been constructed, so that the waters above are
formed into a lake fifteen miles long by some seven or eight miles wide.
From this huge reservoir the water is conducted a distance of one and a
half miles through steel tubes to a power-house some thousand feet
below in elevation, providing an enormous power for the generation of
electricity both for motor and lighting purposes in the city.
The cars run out to the Botanical Gardens, among the most beautiful in
the world, and much favoured by climate. As they are approached tall
palms are seen that mark their boundary near the border of the great
Lake Rodrigo do Frietas, a curious piece of water separated from the
Atlantic by a narrow strip of land over which great billows break during
a storm. The gardens cover two thousand acres. The avenue of royal palms
is half a mile in length, and gives a strongly marked character to these
gardens. Fountains and arbours, rustic bridges and ponds, rivulets and
waterfalls add to the charm of this sylvan spot. At the foot of the hill
grow great clumps of bamboos, whose trembling leaves bend down the
pliant stems till they meet and form an arch overhead. The bases of
these stems have grown to great proportions, and are so close together
that they form an almost solid mass. Narrow shafts of light stream
through the roof of leaves, and pattern the path with many curious
forms. An infinite variety of ferns abound of lovely shades of green and
beautiful design. But for the incessant buzzings of mosquitoes and flies
the spot would be perfect. Lizards dart across the ground and birds flit
twittering through the trees, and in the sparkling sunlight, brilliantly
coloured humming-birds flutter round strange flowers. Butterflies soar
high and so rapidly that they can easily be mistaken for birds. Near by
a small waterfall that makes rippling music stands a tall palm protected
by railings; it is the parent of all the palms in Rio, and sprang from a
seed planted in 1808 by João VI, whose bust stands on a pedestal in
close proximity.
Another favourite car ride takes one to Tijuca, a suburb situated six
miles distant on a beautifully wooded hill, from which extensive views
of the city and harbour are obtainable. This suburb contains many summer
residences, and abounds with beautiful walks and sylvan paths twining
amidst cascades that sparkle in the sunlight.
Other suburbs, Copacabana, Ipanema, and Leme, outside the harbour and on
the Atlantic seaboard, are also connected by car routes with the centre
of the city, and are popular holiday resorts.
[Illustration: THE BOTANICAL GARDENS.]