SWEDEN (_Continued_).
WE went on board the canal steamer very early in the morning, and found
the deck covered with passengers taking their coffee as comfortably as
if they were at home. This was not breakfast, that was to come by and
by; but they turned out early, and all wanted coffee immediately.
The steamer was large, adapted to the canal, the lake, and sea, for all
these waters are to be ploughed in going from Stockholm to Gottenburg.
One of the sailors hearing us speaking the English, addressed us in the
same language, for he had been in the British service until he spoke the
English as well as his own tongue. Indeed, I have rarely heard the
English spoken by a foreigner so well as by this Swedish sailor; yet he
had acquired it solely by the ear.
Locks are now frequent, and the passage very slow. One of them was
tended by a comely maiden, not more than sixteen years old, dressed
neatly with an embroidered petticoat, which she had to expose in pushing
the beam around to open and close the lock. This was a novel application
of female influence, but not very pleasing, being the first thing I had
seen in Sweden that was uncivilized and offensive. Lock after lock,
slowly and tediously we made our way through a pretty country, the
fields well tilled, woods and green meadows interchanging often, and the
land fenced off into smaller divisions than we had noticed in any other
country. The soil appeared to be good from the abundance of the growth.
The houses were neat, and the out-buildings numerous and well arranged,
showing signs of thrift and taste. The look was that of a farming people
well to do.
We enter another lake, short, but very pretty, by name Asplagen, with
richly cultivated shores and sweet homes nestling among the trees; and
on the rising grounds we see beautiful pictures of Swedish life, rich
and prosperous residences, where it is evident that the good things of
this life are enjoyed, and plenty of them.
An elderly Russian gentleman and a Swedish professor of physics in
Stockholm were among the passengers; the Swede had travelled in America,
and was very happy to meet an American, while the Russian was greatly
interested in learning of that wonderful country. He spoke five
languages, and he said that his countrymen, if educated at all, could
speak both English and French. While these gentlemen were my constant
companions on board, they cordially hated each other’s country, the old
antipathy of Russian and Swede cropping out continually, and making it a
difficult task to keep the peace between them.
[Illustration: ROXEN LOCKS.]
Another stretch of the canal brought us to Lake Roxen, a wide and
beautiful expanse, the passage through it requiring an hour. At the
western end of it is the town of Berg, where a hill is to be surmounted
by a series of locks, eleven in number, opening one into another, and
the process requires so much time that we can leave the ship and make an
excursion to an interesting and ancient church in the neighborhood. It
is the Vetra-Kloster, Gothic in style, and built in 1128, when Inge II.
was king in Sweden, and he is buried in it. The Douglas family of
Scotland, in the time of Cromwell, came to this place to find a safe
retreat, and they became famous in the wars of Sweden. They are interred
right royally in this sanctuary. The mansion they occupied stands
conspicuously on the borders of the beautiful lake, commanding splendid
views of this lovely scenery. Villages are scattered over a rich
country, and the spires of churches pointing heavenward tell the pious
hopes of a people whose God is the Lord. The church stands in the midst
of a large graveyard, and this is filled with flowers and shrubs and
shade trees, and the monumental stones bear dates of great antiquity.
The portal of the church was once the prison of a convent which was
attached to the church, for this was built when Romanism ruled this
region as well as southern Europe. The floor is of stone, and the aisles
are of tombstones bearing inscriptions in German, Swedish, and Latin;
epigrammatic and striking some of them are, and have silently preached
to the passer-by for some centuries. “_Mors certa, hora incerta_,” and
“_Hodie mihi, cras tibi_,” are not very sententious, but they have their
point on a gravestone.
In a stone sarcophagus of very singular form, with a long inscription
upon it, lies the body of Inge II.; wooden effigies of unknown
personages, divine or human alike unintelligible to me, keep the dead
monarch company in his sleep of the ages. Another chapel contains two
sarcophagi, in which side by side through successive centuries the royal
ashes rest of those whose names are now forgotten, but might be spelled
out, if it were worth the trouble. And in another chapel are the tombs
of the Scotch Douglases, who fled their own country and found glory and
graves, that’s all, in this retired spot in the heart of Sweden. For
this is purely a rural church, far from the town and all the busy haunts
of men, a fitting place for worship, and a comely spot for graves. It
has been used for both, more than seven hundred years. The avarice of
man has not encroached upon its acres, nor coveted its stones.
Returning from our excursion, we heard the sound of children’s voices,
and were led to a neat school-house in a pleasant enclosure, retired
from the street, and being in the pursuit of knowledge we turned in to
see and hear. About fifty children were receiving instruction from a
master, who courteously bade us enter, and proceeded with his work. All
the scholars, and they were of both sexes, were standing, and reading in
concert from a history of Sweden. The reading being finished, the
teacher put questions to them on the portion they had read, which they
answered promptly, and showed lively interest in the lesson. Around the
walls were suspended maps of the world and of the several countries, and
there were black-boards and all needful appliances, such as would belong
to a well appointed school. In the Universal Exhibition at Paris I had
seen a Swedish school-house with its furniture, &c., and had remarked
that no country made a better exhibition of the apparatus for educating
children than Sweden.
Returning from the visit to the Vetra-Kloster, and its graves of the
kings and the Douglases, we found that the boat had made its way through
the eleven locks and was once more fairly launched on the peaceful bosom
of the grand canal. It was the hour for dining, and the table was spread
on deck, awnings overhead and at the sides to shelter us from the cool
wind while eating. The Swedish dinner, even on a canal-boat, was good,
preceded by the inevitable schnapps and radishes and other appetizers,
and followed by a tolerable soup, fine fish, veal, puddings, and various
trimmings needless to mention. I give you the bill of fare merely to
show that there is enough to eat all the world over, and that you are
not likely to suffer for want of comfortable food, even on a canal in
the heart of Sweden.
We pass through many villages, each with its venerable church, and
houses shaded with overhanging trees, farms well tilled, and now smiling
with growing harvests and heavy clover. I saw no Indian corn, though I
looked for it often. Probably the warm weather is too short-lived for
the crop to ripen. No women were working in the fields. But we came to a
drawbridge, and whistling for some one to open it, a woman ran from her
house with the lever in her hand, ground away as for dear life, and by
the time we reached it the draw was open for us to pass through. The
poor woman was exhausted by the severe exertion, her lips were white as
snow, and she looked ready to faint as we glided by her, and the pilot
gave her a caution to keep a better lookout next time.
And now we cross another lake, _Boren_ by name, the most beautiful of
any we have yet seen. This frequent change from the monotony of the
canal to the lovely scenery of these lakes, imparts a charm to the
journey across the country which we did not anticipate. We now come to
_Motala_, where the greatest Swedish iron-works are located. An English
company has possession of one of the most valuable iron-mines, and the
Swedish government has set up a vast establishment here for the building
of locomotives, iron-clad steamers, monitors, &c., which are said to be
equal to any that are made in the world. The boat had to lie here for
freight long enough for us to go through all the works, which were
freely open to our inspection.
We enter Lake Wetter, one of the largest lakes in Europe. We are soon
out at sea, at least so far that we cannot see the land. It is very
rough, with high wind. One of the sailors assured me that old salts, for
whom the ocean itself had no terrors, are sometimes made sick by the
pitch and toss of Lake Wetter. We touch at Wadstena, a large town from
which our good ship takes its name: a place of great importance in the
commerce of the country, with shops on the docks, like those of a
seaport. What I supposed were bags of grain, lying in great heaps to be
taken on board, proved to be dried peas, and they, with beans, must be
largely grown in these parts. In the suburbs of the place were elegant
residences, with fine parks and beautiful gardens, old and
wide-spreading trees, flower-beds and ornamental shrubbery, some of them
evidently public resorts for the people, and others the appendages of
private residences. Wealth, culture, and enjoyment were thus revealed,
and I had that pleasure which so often greets me in travel,—the
consciousness that a new and strange people, whom I shall probably never
see again, are taking just as much comfort in life, and working out the
ends of living just as well as the inhabitants of other lands with whom
we are more familiar. The Swedish peasantry live well, generally, and
are not exposed to the evils of want, as the hard-working classes in
Poland and Russia. Labor is cheap, and provisions are cheap also. The
houses of the well-to-do people are often made with double windows; they
are rarely more than one story high, the ceilings are low, and thus they
are more readily kept warm in winter. Indeed, I am assured that the
inhabitants in these northern countries, including Russia, often suffer
more from heat than cold in their houses during the severe weather of
their cold season. Education is generally diffused in Sweden, nearly all
being able to read and write; and, taken as a whole, the people being
moral, industrious, frugal, and contented, what could they have more?
The captain came to my cabin, where I was writing, and asked me on deck
to see the sunset and the loveliest view as we approached the village of
Forsvik. It stands at the head of a small lake, and is embosomed with
field and forest—a sweet picture; the manor-house, whose owner is also
at the head of the iron-works, is large and elegant. Here we pass into
the canal again, and through a dense forest, the banks of the canal
being bold and rock-bound, and we just graze them as we pass; indeed, we
seem to be more on land than water; and in fifteen minutes we have cut
through the woods, and rush out into another lake, coming soon to the
highest level between the two seas. We are three hundred and twenty feet
above the sea level, all of which has been surmounted by locks, and now
we must begin the descent by the same means, seventy-five locks in all
being required to take us up from one sea, on one side of Sweden, and
set us down in another sea, on the other side.
The evening had been delicious on deck, but as it drew nigh to midnight,
I would turn in. My companion for the night was the Russian gentleman
whose friendship I had secured during the day. His long, white beard had
commanded my respect. He had asked me innumerable questions of my
country and myself, all of which I had answered to the best of my
ability. He had learned my name,—which he pronounced _Preem_, as all the
continental Europeans do,—and somewhat of my profession, and he
determined to do the polite thing, and in English too, before going into
retirement for the night. His berth was on one side of the little cabin,
mine on the other. We could shake hands across, but we did not. He
arrayed himself in his robes of the night: a red night-cap surmounted
his head, making a fiery contrast with his snow-white beard. Sitting up
on his couch, he addressed me with great dignity and formality: “My
Reverend Preem, I wish you good-night,” and subsided into the pillow.
In the course of the night we steamed out of the canal into Lake Wenner,
the largest in Sweden, and the third in size of all the lakes in Europe.
Even in bed we could perceive that we were at sea, for the roll of the
ship was as if we were on the Mediterranean. But we made the most of the
passage before morning, and touched the next day at Johkoping, one of
the most important inland towns in the kingdom.
This Lake Wenner abounds in trout, and to catch them of the modest
weight of forty pounds is nothing remarkable. It would have been
remarked, however, if we had had the luck to catch one of that weight,
or any thing like it.
A Swedish ship-captain entertained me with stories of his life on this
canal, with vessels worked by sails, pulled by man, and sometimes
bullock power, creeping cautiously through the lakes, and running in
shore whenever the wind was up. He said that he had lived all his days
in this way, and was now taking his ease. All day, as we were making our
way slowly along, we had been hearing the praises sounded of the Falls
of Trollhatten, which we were to reach in the afternoon. The scenery had
been improving, rising sometimes into the grand, and always picturesque
and pleasing, as we passed well-tilled farms and the abodes of
prosperous peasants. A range of locks must be worried through to get by
the Falls, and this gives us the time we want, to see and enjoy one of
the finest cataracts in Europe! You know they have nothing very great in
that line. I have seen them all, and written them up as much as they
would bear, but they do not amount to any thing very wonderful, nothing
indeed to be compared with ours. We have half a dozen falls that would
outleap and outroar all theirs, and we must praise them as an off-set to
their palaces and pictures and stone women. They have marvels of art;
we, wonders of nature, especially Niagara. Foreigners enjoy a
description of Niagara by one who has seen it more than to hear of any
thing else in America. But they have often been sullenly incredulous
when I have assured them that a mighty river, with the water of half a
dozen inland seas, gathers itself within banks a mile asunder, and then
makes one prodigious plunge over a precipice 150 feet deep, into an
unfathomed gulf!
Trollhatten does not attempt such a feat. But the river is caught among
a mass of rocks in a narrow gorge, just where the mountains break down
to the valley, and the stream comes roaring, tumbling, foaming, rushing
headlong with power, fury, madness, indescribable. Water in motion is
always beautiful, and when a mighty volume of it is struggling with
resisting forces, tearing its way over and down the jagged rocks, and
among the green trees of overhanging precipices, what is beautiful
becomes sublime and fearful, and admiration rises into awe. In one place
the rocks have been actually cut away by art to allow the passage of the
water for use, and then the torrent leaps seventy feet at one bound into
a frightful abyss. One lofty rock, with a broad, smooth face, like a
great tablet, is inscribed with the names of kings, and the dates of
their visit to this romantic and interesting spot.
We are now to take the river. The canal is at an end for us. Already we
have a taste of more exciting navigation. To get the steamer into the
river the sailors are working away as if for dear life. One poor fellow
is caught by the leg in a hawser-line, carried overboard, and when
brought on deck is found to have one of his legs broken. It was a sad
termination to our pleasure excursion of three days. We had been brought
into such constant intercourse with the men that we knew them all, and
felt a personal interest in the poor seaman now stretched helpless on
the deck. He was carried to the forecastle, and put away to be taken to
the hospital at Gottenburg, but we could not put him out of mind so
easily. After the excitement was over, I asked the captain what the
owners would do for a sailor thus injured in their service, and learned
that they would pay his hospital charges, and nothing more; in the mean
time, while he was getting well, his family must look out for
themselves. I then proposed to the captain and the Swedish professor
that we should take up a collection among the passengers to help the
man’s family in their want. To my surprise, they said it was a thing
unknown among them, and would not meet with any favor if attempted. They
regarded the idea as quite fanciful and preposterous. Well, I said, “In
my country the passengers would do it; if you will interpret for me I
will make a little speech, and you will see that they will not only
give, but be greatly pleased with the opportunity of doing something.”
The professor consented to be the interpreter, and we called the
passengers together. I told them that “two or three Americans travelling
with them through their beautiful and interesting country had greatly
enjoyed the pleasant voyage of the last few days; but its pleasure had
been marred by the sad accident that had just occurred to one engaged in
our service. Though he was unknown to us, he was a man and a brother,
and in the country from which I came, when such an event took place, we
were in the habit of showing our sympathy for the injured by giving him
money to lighten the calamity that had befallen him. You would gladly do
so if you were permitted, and we propose to go around with a hat and let
every one who is disposed contribute what he or she is pleased to give.”
The professor turned the speech into Swedish, or at least said as much
in that tongue, probably more and better. I could not understand a word;
but his remarks were received with lively applause, and at his allusions
to the _Americans_ I nodded most intelligently, taking it for granted
that he was saying something complimentary. We then received the gifts,
and I believe that every passenger, male and female, gave something, and
with a cheerfulness beautiful to observe.
A lone tower, rising above a mass of ruins, with a single wall
surmounted by a heap of stones, strikingly resembling a huge lion, is
all that remains of Hongfel, one of the most extensive of the old-time
castles of Sweden. Here the river divides into two. We enter the left
branch, passing near a fertile island; and, as the sun is going down
behind a bank of threatening clouds, the city of Gottenburg, a seaport
on the German ocean, rises upon our view with commanding beauty as we
approach, and see the towers of its churches and the roofs of its
principal buildings glistening in the last rays of the summer’s setting
sun. The harbor is well protected, and the forest of masts presented all
the appearances of a busy seaport. The usual crowd was on the wharf as
our boat came to, but perfect order prevailed. No rush was made for
baggage or passengers, but each one waited to be called for,—a model of
good breeding that might be shown to advantage in the wilds of western
civilization. Those of us who had become _well_ acquainted in three
days’ companionship now shook hands and bade each other farewell in our
several tongues, the broken-legged sailor not being forgotten, as he lay
in his bunk waiting to be taken to the hospital. We were soon
distributed in our several directions, and parted, perhaps not to meet
again, certainly not all of us, in this world.
It will give you an idea of the prices that rule in this country if I
tell you that at the wharf we stepped into a carriage with two horses,
our luggage was put on, we were driven to the hotel _Gotha Kallare_, the
luggage was taken up to the chambers, and the price for the whole
service was less than fifty cents of our money. Sweden still bears the
palm of cheapness over all the countries I have seen.
Gottenburg proved to be an interesting place, though noted more for its
commerce with Britain and America than for any thing else. The
Merchants’ Exchange is a model in its way, combining a hall, and rooms
for social entertainments, concerts, &c., which are managed by municipal
authority. A museum of antiquities, illustrating the history and
condition of the country, is well arranged, and would profitably detain
the traveller a day or two to study it. The paintings are also
interesting, where they preserve the memory of men and things belonging
to Sweden, and of these there were many. The landlord of our hotel
having learned from some of the Americans in our party that I was
connected with the press, took pains to bring me into contact with my
brethren of that fraternity in Gottenburg. Mr. Rubenson called and led
me to the office of the _Daily News_, a paper devoted chiefly to the
interests of merchants and sailors. I went through their press-rooms,
composing and editorial apartments, and found them remarkably like those
I was quite familiar with at home. This paper has a circulation of 8,000
daily, and on Saturday is published an edition of 3,000 extra, because
on that day the poorer classes buy a paper for Sunday reading.
Mr. Rubenson took me to visit an institution the like of which I never
heard of in any other city, and yet so useful in its object and result,
that I had great satisfaction in visiting it. I am very anxious to have
it known to the ladies of my own afflicted land. It was established by
the energetic benevolence of one of the ladies of the city, who
succeeded in getting a building specially erected and fitted for the
purpose of giving young women instruction and practice in the arts of
domestic life.
Impelled by a desire to benefit both the servant and the mistress, by
improving the qualities of the one, and adding thus to the comfort of
the other, this Swedish lady, with charity equal to her countrywoman
Jenny Lind, or Fredrika Bremer, established this school. Girls of good
moral character, who wish to go out to service, are received, and, under
the direction of a competent matron, are made adepts in the sublime
mysteries of the kitchen and laundry. The establishment takes in washing
and baking and cooking for private families, hotels, and restaurants,
and the money thus earned goes far toward paying the current expenses.
The girls are taught to put their hands to every thing that must be done
in the household. By turns they wait upon table, and the matron is at
its head to give instruction, that they may become expert in serving the
dinner as well as in cooking it, and those who sit at table may also
learn to be decent in eating it.
And it was pleasant to learn that admission to this training-house is
regarded as a great privilege. It is even secured as a reward for
proficiency in the free schools; so that a young woman who has
distinguished herself for good conduct in school, is entitled to still
further education in this house as a reward of merit. These young women
are in constant demand by families, who are ready to pay them higher
wages, because they are graduates of a training-school where they have
learned the theory and practice of household labor.
One of the greatest enjoyments of wanderings in foreign lands has been
found in the discovery that there are good people all over the world;
that they are toiling and praying for the good of their
fellow-creatures, trying to make society better, the burden of the poor
more easy to be borne, and this by helping them to help themselves. The
future of these northern countries is more hopeful because of the
enlightened philanthropy of such as the friends I have just met.