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[Illustration: THE GENERALIFFE.]
THE ALHAMBRA AND THE KREMLIN.
The South and the North of Europe.
by
SAMUEL IRENÆUS PRIME,
Author of “Travels in Europe and the East.”
New York:
Anson D. F. Randolph & Company,
770 Broadway.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1873, by
Anson D. F. Randolph and Company,
In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.
Press of
John Wilson and Son,
Cambridge.
Bindery of
Robert Rutter,
82 and 84 Beekman St.,
New York.
TO
MRS. E’LOUISA L. PRIME
THIS VOLUME
IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED.
[Illustration: Decorative illustration]
THE South and the North of Europe are contrasted in this volume. Not by
any formal comparison of the morals and manners, the institutions and
condition of the peoples in different latitudes, but by candid statement
and description, I have sought to give a fair view of life as it is in
Spain and Scandinavia.
Since the journey was made, the Queen of Spain has fled, and the Emperor
of France has perished from among men. But the social life of the
nations remains the same from age to age.
The Alhambra is a type of the South. The Kremlin is a symbol of the
North. Both of them are fortresses enclosing palaces: the glory of Spain
in ruins, the pride of the North in its strength and beauty.
Vague and indefinite ideas of these wonderful edifices, and of the
countries they represent, have been entertained by many, who may find in
these pages pictures of things as they are, which the writer trusts are
faithful and portable.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
The Generaliffe _Frontispiece._
Bridge, Gateway, and Cathedral of Burgos 16
The Cid 17
The Escorial 22
The Royal Palace, Madrid 40
Toledo 54
The Alcazar 59
Cordova 82
Court of Oranges, Cordova 87
The Great Mosque, Cordova 89
“La Geralda,” Seville 93
She wept and told her Beads 96
The Bull-Fight 101
The Picador 106
In the Alameda, at Malaga 118
The Diligence 125
Outer Wall of the Alhambra 130
Portion of a Door 138
The Vermilion Tower 142
The Alhambra 156
Geneva and the Rhone 166
Merle d’Aubigné 167
D’Aubigné’s Birthplace and Residence 169
Lausanne, and the Lake of Geneva 171
Castle of Chillon 173
The Lake and City of Geneva 175
Cathedral and Platform at Berne 182
On the Lake of Thun 184
Pilatus, Lake of Lucerne 190
Monument to the Swiss Guard. (_By Thorvaldsen_) 195
Tell’s Chapel, Lake of Lucerne 198
Swiss Horn Blowers 211
Peasants of Eastern Switzerland 212
Female Costumes in Appenzell 217
Death of the Chamois 231
On the Rhine 241
Aix-la-Chapelle 245
Frankfort Dining-Table 269
Polish Peasants 283
Scene at Railway Station 294
A Rainy Day in a Russian City 309
Street Scene in a Russian City 315
A Russian Porter 321
The Kremlin 331
Plan of the Centre of Moskva City 335
The Russo-Greek Service 342
Helsingfors 383
Stockholm Steamers 396
Upsala 413
Costumes of Sweden 421
Roxen Locks 435
Travelling in Carioles in Norway 457
Palace of Frederiksberg 462
A Domestic Scene in Denmark 469
Façade of the Thorvaldsen Museum, Copenhagen 471
Portrait of Thorvaldsen. (_By Horace Vernet_) 473
Hamburg 480
Home Again 482
CONTENTS.
-------
CHAPTER I.
GRANADA.
PAGE
Lodgings at the Alhambra.—Restoration.—Webs of Falsehood.—The Sierra
Nevada Mountains.—Fruits.—Progress of the Peasantry.—The Moors.—Adam’s
Visit to Spain.—Expulsion of the Moors.—Decline of the Empire.—
Railroads.—Mines.—Early Settlers.—Iberians.—Phœnicians.—Goths.—Moors.—
Waning of the Crescent.—Capture of Cordova.—Flight of the last Moorish
King
1
CHAPTER II.
OUT OF FRANCE INTO SPAIN.—THE BASQUE PROVINCES.
Biarritz.—Chateau Eugenie.—Dangerous Coast.—Breakwater.—The Virgin’s
Partiality.—Bathing Grounds.—Couriers.—Antanazio.—His Honesty and
Zeal.—Crossing the Boundary.—Island of Conference.—Spanish Courtesy.—
The Basque Provinces.—Peculiar Customs.—Ancestry.—The Language.—
Spanish Stupidity.—La Fayette.—St. Sebastian.—Duke of Wellington’s
Sack of the City.—Bull-ring.—Likeness of the Country to Switzerland.—
Physique of the Inhabitants.—Productions.—Industries.—Primogeniture.—
Tolasa.—Vittoria.—Wellington’s Victory.—Miranda.—Roderick, the last
King of the Goths
6
CHAPTER III.
BURGOS.—THE ESCORIAL.
A sleepy Town.—Origin of the Name.—Fusion of the Crowns of Leon and
Castile.—The Coffer of the Cid.—Swindling a Jew.—Moorish Lies.—
Hotels.—A Change of Base.—The Cathedral.—Statues.—Carvings.—Verdict of
Charles V. and Philip II.—Devil beating the Railroad.—Carving by
Nicodemus.—Miracles.—Castle.—Engineer hoisted by his own Petard.—
Burgos Taverns.—Philip II. His Character.—Conception of a Palace,
Monastery, and Tomb.—The Escorial.—Dimensions.—St. Lawrence.—
Turning-point of his Life.—Description of the Palace.—Death of Philip
II.—Mausoleum.—The Sagrario.—A _toe_-tal Loss.—Cellini Crucifix.—
Library
15
CHAPTER IV.
MADRID.—A SABBATH AND A CARNIVAL.
A polyglot Valet.—Missionary Schools.—Foreign Chaplains.—The Church
_Militant_.—Upper Chamber.—Religious Intolerance.—Inquisition.—
Persecution.—Spanish Sabbath.—Devotion.—Infidelity.—The Prado.—
Bull-ring.—Wine Shops.—Frolicking.—Dancing.—Cheap Wines.—Carnival.—
Costumes.—Politeness.—Maskers.—Ancient Belle.—Hobbling Monk.—Pope.—
Natural Goose.—Devil.—Orang-outang.—General Abandon.—Religion and
Folly.—Good Humor
29
CHAPTER V.
MADRID.—PALACE.—BANK.—PICTURE-GALLERY.
Napoleon’s Epigram.—Royal Palace.—Cavalry.—Military Parade.—Plains of
Castile.—Armory.—Swords of Gonzalo de Cordova, Ferdinand, and Charles
V.—Armor of Boabdil.—Revolvers.—Mighty Men of War.—Toledo Blade.—
Stables.—Spanish Horses.—Merino Sheep.—Royal Equipage.—Crazy Jane’s
Carriage.—Her Effigy.—Mischievous Display.—French Language and
Influence.—Slow Coaches.—Cheap Labor.—Architecture.—Banking-house.—
Bank of Spain.—Repose of Manner.—Gold at last.—Railroads.—
Post-office.—Personal Identity.—Rebel General.—Lost Letters.—
Telegraphs.—Progress.—Picture-gallery.—The Immaculate Conception.—
Vision of St. Bernard.—Christ sinking under his Cross.—Equestrian
Portrait of Charles V.—Titian.—Correggio.—Mary in the Garden.—Blas del
Prado.—Hidden Gems.—Murillo.—Material and Ideal Art
39
CHAPTER VI.
TOLEDO.—ITS FLEAS, LANDLORDS, ANTIQUITIES, AND LUNATICS.
Progress.—Hotel Lino.—The wicked Flea.—Easy Manners.—Breakfast.—Model
Landlord and Waiters.—Toledo Butter.—City set on a Hill.—Monuments of
departed Peoples.—Romance.—Architecture.—Oldest City in the World.—
Mythic Founders.—Perfidy of Roderick.—Reign of the Archbishops.—
Decline of Power and Glory.—Cathedral.—Descent of the Virgin.—A fair
Penitent.—Orthodoxy of the Priesthood.—Burning of the Missals.—The
Muzarabe.—The dead Lion better than a living Dog.—Eloquent Epitaph.—
Honors paid the Virgin.—The Alcazar.—Derivation of Mango.—Spanish
Pride.—Peacocks.—Foreign Impressions.—Moorish Gates.—San Juan de los
Reyes.—Thank-offerings.—St. Florinde.—Cave of Hercules.—Legend of the
Cid.—Café.—Toledo Blades.—Virtues of the Tagus.—Sword of Boabdil.—
Lunatic Asylum.—Don Quixote.—Crazy Editors.—Statistics.—Causes of
Insanity.—Spanish Slowness and Temperance.—Sophomores
53
CHAPTER VII.
LA MANCHA.—ANDALUSIA.
Smoking.—Cigarettes at Dinner.—Taking Sanctuary.—Retort.—Tobacco
Culture.—Cuban Monopoly.—Chewing tabooed.—Early Smoking.—Children and
Ladies.—Tobacco Factory.—Cigareras.—Flavored Cigars.—Potash.—Soda.—
Opium.—Intemperate Clergyman.—La Mancha.—Don Quixote.—Treeless
Landscape.—Sheep.—Corn.—Primitive Ploughing.—Husbandry.—
Primogeniture.—Lands of Church and Crown.—Agricultural Schools.—
Periodicals.—Sierra Morena Mountains.—Cautious Engineer.—Manjibar.—
Pickled Chicken.—Moving on.—Perfumes of Arabia.—Resting-place.—
Transatlantic Indigestion.—Andalusia.—Ignorance and Crime.—Government
Education.—Statistics.—Salamanca.—Influence of Climate.—Population.—
The Aloe and Olive.—Oranges and Lemons.—Hills of Andalusia.—Sheep
69
CHAPTER VIII.
CORDOVA.
Cleanliness.—Paved Streets.—Bridge over the Guadalquiver.—Age of the
City.—Wholesale Butchery.—Government.—Mosques.—Baths.—Inns.—Schools.—
Library.—Rural Fête.—Departed Glory.—Palace of Abdurhama.—Beautiful
Evergreens.—Fruits.—Interior of an Ancient House.—Moorish Style.—
Cathedral.—Converted Mosque.—Gate of Pardon.—Court-yard.—Orange
Grove.—Fountains.—Gold Fish.—Elders in the Gate.—The Mecca of Europe.—
Holy Shrine.—Symbolism.—Indulgences.—Bronze Ornaments.—Inscription in
Gothic and Arabic.—Dimensions.—Precious Stones.—The Mihrab.—The
Kalif’s Oratory.—Mosaics.—Devout Mussulmans.—Chapels.—Etching on
Stone.—Impressive Monuments
83
CHAPTER IX.
SEVILLE, ITS CATHEDRAL AND BULL-FIGHTS.
Delicious Climate.—Customs.—Exile of the Moors.—Consequent Decay.—The
Alcazar.—Barbaric Splendor.—A Christian Kingdom.—Cathedral.—A House of
God.—Giant Columns.—High Mass.—Unconscious Worshipper.—Beautiful
Women.—Venus-worship.—Port of Seville.—Fruits.—Don Juan.—Barber of
Seville.—Murillo’s House.—Mosaics.—Moorish Castle.—_Auto-da-fé._—The
Quemadaro.—Field of St. Sebastian.—Circulation of the Bible.—Tower of
Gold.—Treasure House.—Prison.—Bins of Gold.—Decline and Fall of
Spain.—Demoralizing Influences.—Corruption and Robbery.—Yellow Fever.—
Guadalquiver.—Amphitheatre.—A Delicate Lady.—Warlike Husband.—Her
Description of a Bull-fight.—The Ring.—Spectators.—Trumpet-blast.—
Picadors.—Entrance of the Bull.—Charge.—Horseman.—Terrible Sight.—
Chulos.—Banderilleros.—Squibs.—Matador.—Applause.—The Ladies.—
Different Tastes.—Squeamish Husband
92
CHAPTER X.
SEVILLE.
La Caridad.—Art Treasures.—St. John.—Miracle of the Loaves and Fishes.—
Moses striking the Rock.—Recovery of Pictures at Waterloo.—French
Thieves.—Venus de Medici.—Thoughtful Amateur.—Museum Fees.—Guardian
Angels of Seville.—Martyrdom.—Murillo’s Pages of the Gospel.—Old
Masters.—Decay of Art.—Bull-fighting.—The Season.—Exaggeration.—
Curious Development.—Effect on the National Character.—Street-plays.—
Feats.—Demoralization.—Spanish Pride.—Morality.—Contrast between the
North and South of Europe.—Costume of Andalusia.—Fashion.—Life of the
People.—Price of Labor.—Food.—Climate.—Beer.—Wine cheaper than Water.—
Sack.—Intemperance.—Physical Circumstances.—Social Burdens.—Beautiful
Trait.—Obedience.—Veneration of the Aged
107
CHAPTER XI.
MALAGA.
An ill Wind that blows no Good.—Curious Excuse for Crime.—Old World like
the New.—Resort for Invalids.—Genial Clime.—Range of Thermometer.—
Mineral Waters.—Sunshine.—Rainfall.—Heavenly Skies.—Advice to
Consumptives.—Grapes.—Raisins.—Wine and Oil.—A Sabbath.—Service at the
British Consulate.—Mrs. Partington.—English Chaplain.—Sermon.—Narrow
Streets.—Sweet Memories of Cologne.—Picturesque Moors.—Cathedral.—High
Mass.—Florid Architecture.—Fruits.—Prayer of a Dying Moor.—Florinde.—
Chronicles of Washington Irving.—Luxuries of Travel.—Diligences.—Out
of Malaga.—Obstinate Mules.—Night.—Mountains.—Setting Sun.—Lovely
Scenery.—Orchards.—Armed Guards.—Gentlemen of the Road.—Loja.—Inn.—
Flock of Fleas.—A Stimulant.—Setting out for Granada.—Santa Fé.—Its
History.—Granada at Last.—In the Grounds of the Alhambra
118
CHAPTER XII.
THE ALHAMBRA.
The Paradise of the West.—Rivers of Eden.—New Damascus.—Granada.—Origin
of the Name.—Fruits.—Mountains.—Skies.—Moorish Empire broken.—Zawi Ibu
Zeyri.—Alhambra.—Meaning of the Name.—Extension of the Castle.—
Original Grandeur.—Its first Prince.—His Improvements.—Roads.—
Colleges.—Hospitals.—Canals.—Arts.—Sciences.—Degeneracy.—Intrigues and
Murders.—Ruin.—Final Overthrow of Moorish Power.—Ferdinand and
Isabella.—Columbus.—Fleas and Cake.—Blessing and Gold.—New World in
the West.—Bookstore.—Irving’s Tales.—Gate of Judgment.—Plateau.—
Desolation.—Court of Myrtles.—Court of Lions.—Boabdil.—Abencerrages.—
Treachery.—Hall of Ambassadors.—Bensaken.—Walking Cyclopedia.—
Prudence.—Washington Irving.—Dolores.—Queen’s Garden.—Hall of Two
Sisters.—Harem.—Linderaka Gardens.—Queen’s Dressing-room.—Gypsies.—
Perfume Bath.—Water Bath.—Governor’s Court.—Bowed Slab.—The Morning
Star
129
CHAPTER XIII.
THE ALHAMBRA (_continued_).
The poor Cobbler of Granada.—Spanish Rule of Living.—Xantippe.—Search
for Gold.—Messenger Dove.—Dreams.—Landslip.—Fever cured.—Conversion.—
The Watch Tower.—Magic Bell.—Parapanda Mountains.—Reign of Law.—Gift
to the Duke of Wellington.—Bloody Pass.—Vega.—Water Gates.—The Last
Sigh of the Moor.—His Mother’s Reproof.—Moorish Race.—Political
Prisoners.—Birthplace of Eugenie.—The Generaliffe.—Ancient Tree.—
Suspected Queen.—Women of Spain.—Sins of Climate
144
CHAPTER XIV.
GRANADA.
Troubadour and Gypsy Life.—Dwarf.—Horse.—Fair.—Physique of the gitanos.—
Habits.—Habitations.—Moral Principle.—Chastity.—Swindling.—
Superstition.—Fortune-tellers.—Credulity.—Trickery.—Parisian
Spiritualist.—Gypsy Creed.—Musings.—Causes of Astonishment.—Paintings
and Cathedrals.—Unworthy Ambition.—Silence in Church.—Cathedral of
Granada.—Chapel Royal.—Tomb of Ferdinand and Isabella.—Tomb of Philip
and Crazy Jane.—Obliging Priest.—Fees.—Leaving Granada.—Disguised
Thief.—Seizure and Imprisonment.—Out of Granada
155
CHAPTER XV.
GENEVA.—FREYBURG.—BERNE.
Geneva.—Color of the Rhone.—Cæsar’s Wall.—Cathedral.—Calvin.—Lady Jane
Grey.—Rousseau.—Voltaire.—Madame de Stael.—Byron.—Jura.—Mont Blanc.—
Celebrities.—Coppet.—Ninon.—St. Protais.—Lisus.—Morges.—Grand
Muveran.—Diablerets.—Mont Rosa.—Mont Blanc.—Lausanne.—St. Anne.—Sacred
Rat.—Cathedral.—Convention of Reformers.—Gibbon.—Classic Ground.—
Chillon.—Bonnivard.—Torture Chamber.—Hotel Byron.—Railroad.—Ice.—Swiss
Valleys.—Freyburg.—Suspension Bridge.—Great Organ.—Cathedral.—
Wonderful Music: its Power and Sweetness.—Berne.—Morat.—Burgundian
Custom.—Public Bears.—Unfortunate Englishman.—Curious Clock.—Market
Women.—Federal Palace.—Swiss Cantons.—Bernese Alps.—Thun.—Jungfrau
165
CHAPTER XVI.
THE BRUNIG PASS.—LUCERNE.
Pleasant Ride.—Interlaken.—Lakes Thun and Brienz.—Abendberg.—Faulhorn.—
Giesback.—Illumination.—Ascent of the Brunig.—Vale of Meyringen.—Falls
of Reichenbach.—Lungern.—Splendid Courage.—Cheap Suffering.—Modern
Reformers.—Mount Pilatus.—Myths.—Lucerne.—Population.—St. Leger.—
Service.—Crucifix.—A Devotee.—Mass.—Organ.—Cloisters.—Lake Lucerne.—
Lion of Lucerne.—Dance of Death.—Striking Scenery.—Gersau.—Brunnen.—
Bay of Uri.—Sir James Mackintosh.—Swiss Patriots.—Chapel of Tell.—
Cascades.—Fluellen.—Altorf.—Captain Lott
186
CHAPTER XVII.
THE BLACK VIRGIN OF EINSIEDELN.—LIFE IN SWITZERLAND, ETC.
The Hermit Meinrad.—His Black Virgin.—Murder.—Detective Ravens.—
Monastery.—Miracle.—Shrine.—Pilgrims.—Revenue.—A Barefooted Penitent.—
Village Church.—Fountain.—Gallery.—Abbot.—Hospitality.—Library.—
College.—Monastic Life.—Adieu.—Pleasant Quarters.—Meals.—Hotel Life.—
John Bull.—A Charming Couple.—Americans.—A National Feature.—Slang.—
Language.—Manners.—An Elegant Lady.—Selfishness.—French and Swiss
Railroads.—Improvements.—Accidents.—Accommodations
200
CHAPTER XVIII.
CANTON APPENZELL.—SWISS CUSTOMS.
Trogen.—Convent.—Memento mori.—Scenery.—Religion.—German Service.—
Curious Custom.—Constance.—Martyrs.—Dividing Line.—Remarkable Change.—
Cause.—Pillory.—Evening Bell.—Watchman’s Song.—Bridal Custom.—Athletic
Sports.—Democracy.—Assembly.—Office Seekers.—Council.—Roads.—
Taxation.—Schools.—Foreign Pupils.—Pedestrians.—Moral Culture.—
Treatment of Women.—Cows.—Farm Work.—Manufactures.—Mechanics.—God’s
Acre.—Graves.—Funeral Ceremonies.—Simplicity.—Lonely Burial.—
Unpleasing Custom.—Costumes.—The Upper Classes.—Refinement and
Culture.—Manners.—Patriotism.—A Challenge
212
CHAPTER XIX.
GERMAN WATERING-PLACES.—BINGEN ON THE RHINE.
A German Watering-place.—Land of Salt.—Salt Works.—Last of the Barons.—
Homburg.—Kursaal.—Palace.—Gaming.—Kreusnach.—Spas.—Salt Springs.—
Cure-house.—Kissingen.—Baths.—Cures.—Long Sledge-ride.—Princess of
Mecklenburg.—Clerical Postman.—Whey-cure.—Grape-cure.—Rest.—
Rheingraffenstein.—Ebernburg.—Relics of Reformers.—French Cannon
Balls.—The Bingen of Poetry.—The Real Bingen.—Bishop Hatto’s Tower.—
Maüse-thurme.—Southey.—Ehrenfels.—Rudesheimer Vineyards.—Wine-making.—
Shallow Soil.—Johannisberg Vineyard.—The Rhine.—Mayence.—Printing.—
Guttenberg’s Statue.—Cathedral
232
CHAPTER XX.
PILGRIMAGE TO AIX-LA-CHAPELLE.
Tomb of Charlemagne.—The Dead Emperor.—Cathedral.—Consecration.—Holy
Shrine.—Healing Waters.—Palace.—Holy Relics.—Remarkable List.—
Septennial Exhibition.—Sultan of Turkey.—Crowd.—Order and Devotion.—
Sultan and Suite.—Stolidity.—Priests and Women.—A Crush.—Pageant
opened.—Procession.—The Relics.—Puseyite Priest.—On the Road to Rome.—
Superstition.—Pictures.—Virgin’s Garment.—Modern Style.—Holy Shirt.—
Other Relics.—Pilgrims.—Revenue.—Waters.—Fountain.—Music.—Invalids.—
Kurhaus.—Social Ease.—Baths.—Sulphur Water.—Antiquities.—Tower of
Granus.—Statue of Charlemagne.—Bust and Skull
245
CHAPTER XXI.
FRANKFORT.
Graveyard.—Childish Plays.—Cheerful Graves.—Grave of Goethe’s Mother.—
Inscription.—Lovely Sentiment.—Coffin of Goethe.—Wealthy Jew.—
Humiliation.—Ancient Glory.—Ariadne.—Elegant Cars.—Smokers.—Pine
Forests.—Women’s Rights.—Beer Drinking.—A Good Arrangement.—
Frankfort-on-the-Oder.—Krewz.—Dinner.—Gardens.—Scenery.—Nakal.—
Bromberg.—Wedges.—Attentive Servant.—Frontier.—Passports.—The
Vistula.—Poland.—Warsaw
264
CHAPTER XXII.
WARSAW.
Historic Legend.—The Jesuits.—Partition.—Last Insurrection.—Nationality
crushed out.—Attempted Insurrection.—Defeat.—Warsaw.—Armed Despotism.—
Discontent.—Precarious Prosperity.—Russian Rule and Language.—Fate of
a Spy.—Consequence.—Russian Soldiery.—Ill-manners.—Botanical Gardens.—
Observatory.—Palace.—Sobieski’s Monument.—Grave Error.—Illumination.—
Streets.—Drunkenness.—Climate.—Lutheran Church.—Relics of Romanism.—
Mendicants.—Jewish Quarter.—Hospital.—War of Religions.—Statue of the
Virgin.—Little Russia.—Funeral.—English Cock
273
CHAPTER XXIII.
FROM WARSAW TO ST. PETERSBURG.
Pretentious Hotel.—Splendid Bridge.—Polite Ticket-seller.—Cars.—
Prairie.—Wretched Peasantry.—Jews.—Railroad Employes.—Lapy.—Mother and
Son.—Bialystok.—Grodno.—Diet of Poland.—Last King of Poland.—Jewish
Holiday.—Lithuania.—Plains.—Napoleon’s Hill.—Monument.—Wilna.—Ruins.—
Insurrection.—Babel.—Dunaberg.—Captive.—Short Night.—Serfs.—Reform.—
Board of Arbitrators.—Emancipation.—Pskof.—Lady Smoker.—St. Petersburg
284
CHAPTER XXIV.
ST. PETERSBURG.
Searching Process.—Peculiar Costumes.—Rough Streets.—Russian Bath.—
Dinner.—Model Guide.—Elegant Diction.—Peter the Great.—Catharine I.—
Striking Contrasts.—Accommodating Weather.—Palace of the Emperor.—
Column of Alexander.—Statue of Peter the Great.—Boy Czars.—Peter’s
Lawyers.—Devotion.—Cathedral.—Trophies.—Isaac’s Cathedral.—Amazing
Splendor.—Worship.—Offerings.—Holy of Holies.—Behind the Scenes.—
Careful Husbands.—Greek and Romish Churches.—Lent.—Sabbath.—Exorcism.—
Honors paid the Virgin
293
CHAPTER XXV.
RUSSIAN ART, CUSTOMS, AND MANNERS.
Winter Palace.—Ways of Royalty.—Crown Jewels.—Orloff Diamond.—
Hermitage.—Art Galleries.—Curious Code of Laws.—Royal Museum.—Peter’s
Walking-stick.—Art Culture.—Condition of the Masses.—Laborers.—
Mechanics.—Prices.—Rent.—Food.—Dress.—Peculiar Custom.—Polite
Bankers.—Despot.—Justice.—Verdicts.—Story of Labanoff.—Siberia.—
Abuses.—Academy of Science.—Zoological Museum.—Sunset on the Neva.—
Boatman.—Light at Evening-tide
310
CHAPTER XXVI.
FROM ST. PETERSBURG TO MOSCOW.
American Engineers.—Sleeping Arrangements.—Newspapers.—Drama.—Courtesy.—
Lubanskaia.—Dinner.—Villages.—The Volga.—Murdered Bishop.—Sleeping
Car.—Ladder.—Russian Jargon.—Pathetic Appeal.—Board.—Refreshments.—
Greek Ecclesiastic.—Patriarch Nicon.—New Jerusalem.—Profanity.—
Tyranny.—Revolt.—Pope of the North.—Emperor’s Slight.—Nicon’s
Humility.—Banishment.—Patriarchates.—Dead Level.—Flight of Freedom
322
CHAPTER XXVII.
THE KREMLIN AND THE BELLS OF MOSCOW.
A Swiss Landlord.—Fleas.—Shrines.—Palaces, Cottages, and Churches.—The
Moskva.—Circular City.—Kremlin Walls.—Gates.—Chief Entrance.—Picture
of the Redeemer.—Respect.—Cannon.—Miracle.—Splendid Scene.—Tower of
Ivan.—Bells.—Medium of Worship.—Holy City.—Pilgrims.—Bell-making.—
Precious Metals.—Silver Bells.—Chapel of the Betrothed.—Music of the
Bells
330
CHAPTER XXVIII.
THE CHURCHES OF MOSCOW.
Cathedral of the Assumption.—Bones of the Patriarchs.—The Iconastasis.—
Sanctuary.—Archbishop’s Throne.—Coronation Ceremony.—Tombs.—Cathedral
of the Archangel Michael.—Religious Freedom.—Churches.—Cathedral of
St. Basil.—Archangel Cathedral.—Pilgrims.—Golgotha.—Sacristy.—
Religion.—Holy Oil.—Baptism.—Making of the Holy Chrism
340
CHAPTER XXIX.
PALACE AND INSTITUTIONS OF MOSCOW.
Royal Palace.—Empress’s Drawing-room.—Empress’s Cabinet.—Hall of St.
George.—Hall of St. Andrew.—Gold Court.—Napoleon’s Descent.—
Treasures.—Historical Curiosities.—Precious Orb.—Foundling Hospital.—
Mortality of Foundlings.—Orphan Asylum.—Sheep’s Clothing.—Harvest
Season.—Jews.—Peasants.—Riding School.—Wax-show.—Ethnological
Society.—Travel.—Sydney Smith’s Stick
350
CHAPTER XXX.
FROM MOSCOW TO ST. PETERSBURG.
Commercial Travellers.—Sparrow Hills.—Church of the Saviour.—Simonoff
Monastery.—Novo-Devichi Convent.—The Moskva.—A Holiday.—Napoleon’s
March.—Borodino.—Evacuation of Moscow.—French Enthusiasm.—Triumphal
Entry.—Surprise.—Incendiarism.—Return of the French.—Horrors of the
March.—Russian Barbarism.—Public Kissing.—From Moscow to St.
Petersburg.—Fussy Ladies.—Klin.—Dinner.—Tver.—Beggars.—Night without
Darkness.—The Fussy Ladies again.—Sunrise.—Marriage Customs
359
CHAPTER XXXI.
FINLAND.
Americans.—Cronstadt.—Fortifications.—Vessels.—Smoking.—Wyborg.—
Saw-mills.—Channel.—Ruined Tower.—Submission of Finland.—Religion.—
Government.—Harvests.—Famines.—Army.—Wages.—Fens.—Lakes and Islands.—
Drosky.—Huge Stones.—Excursion.—Eden in the North.—Serpent in the
Garden.—Long Bills.—Attentions paid Strangers.—A Finnish Lady.—
Fishermen.—A Killing Man.—Gulf of Finland.—Fredericksham.—Sclava.—Hard
Case.—Social Customs
371
CHAPTER XXXII.
Finland (_continued_).
Helsingfors.—Sweaborg.—Fortified Islands.—Society House.—Ducal Palace.—
Finnish Gentlemen.—Senate House.—University.—Observatory.—Library.—
Literature.—Kalewala.—Schiller and Shakespeare.—Language.—Congress.—
Coats of Arms.—Botanical Garden.—House of Refreshment.—Health
Establishment.—Mineral Fountain.—Rocky Islands.—Fishing.—Peasantry.—
Abo.—Hotel.—Good Manners.—Castle.—Cathedral.—Tombs.—Conflagration.—
Carriole.—Kibitka.—Bondkara.—Finns
383
CHAPTER XXXIII.
SWEDEN.
Harbor of Abo.—Swedish Customs.—Eating and Drinking.—Climate.—The
Baltic.—Stockholm.—Porters.—Hotel Rydburg.—Pleasant Quarters.—
Scandinavia.—Odin.—Sagas.—Christianity.—Lutheran Religion.—King.—
Congress.—Hospital.—Physicians.—Clergymen.—Education.—Religious
Toleration.—The Press.—Cost of Living.—Vice.—The Riddarholm’s Kyrkan.—
Tomb of Gustavus Adolphus.—Reformation.—Royal Palace.—Picture
Gallery.—Library.—Codex Aureus.—King of Sweden.—Mimic War.—Standing
Army.—Order.—Thieves
394
CHAPTER XXXIV.
Sweden (_continued_).
Drottningholm.—Lake Malar.—Sigtuna.—Odin.—Superstition.—Pirates.—Rural
Life.—Professor Olivecrona.—Islands.—Chateau.—Commercial Life.—
Manuscripts.—University of Upsala.—Codex Argenteus.—Icelandic
Literature.—Standard of Education.—Students.—Costume.—Cathedral.—
Statue of Thor.—Old Upsala.—Mora Stone.—Mass Meetings.—Graves of Pagan
Deities.—Temple of Odin.—Ancient Tower.—Battle-field of Faith.—Deer
Park Restaurant.—Social Customs.—Swedish Homes.—Content.—Moral
Progress
409
CHAPTER XXXV.
Sweden (_continued_).
Steam Canal.—The Oscar.—View of Stockholm.—Sodertelje.—St. Olaf.—The
Gota Canal.—Castles and Legends.—Soderkoping.—Tavern Breakfast.—
Sabbath in Sweden.—Church.—Costumes.—Service.—Snuffing and Nasal
Singing.—Watering-place.—Physician.—College of Health.—Baths.—Mineral
Waters.—Emigration.—Lodging and Board
423
CHAPTER XXXVI.
Sweden (_continued_).
On the Gota Canal again.—Working-girl.—Lake Asplagen.—Swedish
Professor.—Lake Roxen.—Berg.—The Vetra-Kloster.—Graveyard.—Tombs of
the Douglases.—School-house.—Dinner on the Canal.—Crops.—Lock-keeper.—
Lake Boren.—Motala.—Iron-works.—Lake Wetter.—Wadstena.—Pea-crop.—
Peasantry.—Labor.—Cold.—Sunset.—Forsvik.—Russian Gentleman.—Lake
Wenner.—Trout.—Falls of Trollhatten.—River.—Unfortunate Sailor.—
Collection.—Hongfel Castle.—Gottenburg.—Cheap Lodgings.—Museum.—Daily
News.—Training House for Servants.—Philanthropy
433
CHAPTER XXXVII.
NORWAY.
Embarkation.—Breakfast.—Skager-rack and Cattegat.—Freidericksvern.—
Christiania.—Hotel du Nord.—Flowers and Fountains.—Stove.—Norwegian
Breakfast.—Museum.—Superstition.—Duel of the Girdle.—Bridal
Ornaments.—Heathen Relics.—Learning and Letters.—Lake Mjosen.—English
Commercial Traveller.—Boat Library.—Sportsmen.—Church.—Fat Pastor.—
Remnants of Popery.—Costumes.—The Lord’s Supper.—Service.—Devotion and
Reverence.—Oneness of the Church.—Lillehammer.—Cheap Living.—Cripple.—
Christiania.—Carriole.—Post Horses and Boys.—Agershaus.—Robin Hood of
Norway.—Benevolent Institutions.—Grave of Bradshaw
447
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
DENMARK.
Skager-rack and Cattegat.—Magnificent Sunset.—Elsinore.—Toll.—House of
Tycho Brahe.—Kronborg.—Treaty of Vienna.—Danish Giant.—
Fortifications.—Hamlet’s Grave.—True History.—Royal Castle.—Queen of
Christian II.—Touching Prayer.—Royal Forest.—Castle of Peace.—
Denmark.—Her History.—Valdemar II.—Schleswig-Holstein.—Christianity.—
General Intelligence.—Education.—Copenhagen.—Thorvaldsen’s Museum.—
Statues.—Vanity.—Hall of Christ.—Gems and Bronzes.—Vor Frue Kirke.—
Religion and Art.—Church Service.—Baptism.—Love of Amusement.—
Theatres.—Public Gardens.—Museum.—Ruins.—Monuments.—South American
Gentleman.—Zealand.—Fleas.—Kiel.—Elmshorn.—Home Again
462
SPAIN.
CHAPTER I.
GRANADA.
IN the grounds of the Alhambra, the ancient palace of the Moorish kings
of Granada, what time those conquerors of Spain here held their right
regal court, I have come to sit down and to rest.
My lodgings are just under the walls of the old castle, in sight of its
crumbling towers, in hearing of its many falling waters, and under the
shadow of its English elms, which the Duke of Wellington gave to Spain.
At any moment a few steps take me into the courts and halls and chambers
of the Alhambra. In years past, while this pearl of Arab art and
Oriental splendor was silently suffered to fall into ruin, with the
lapse of centuries, it has been the habit of some travelled authors more
addicted to romance than others, to get the easy privilege of sharing
lodgings with the bats in some deserted chamber, and they doubtless
fancied themselves inspired with the genius of the place, as they
dreamed and wrote where fair sultanas with their charms eclipsed the
splendors of the fairy place itself.
As it is no part of my purpose to indulge in romance while writing these
sketches of the Alhambra and of Spain, and as the walls of a comfortable
inn are much more to the taste of a weary traveller than the stone
floors and open windows of a tumbling old castle, it is my preference to
take up my abode for the present with the good people in the Alhambra
Hotel, and not with the keepers of the palace itself. Besides, there is
no choice left. The government has undertaken the work of restoring the
Alhambra to its pristine beauty, and this process is now going onward
under the direction of Sr. Contreras. He has already displayed so much
skill in imitating the arabesque decorations of the walls, that only a
practised eye perceives the difference when the ancient and the modern
art appear in the same chamber.
Architects as well as amateur travellers from all parts of the civilized
world, for centuries past, have made artistic and pleasure journeys
hither to study and admire the style that has nothing like it except in
Spain, and here only where the Moors held sway. And perhaps no work of
art in the whole world has been more frequently and fully described than
the Alhambra of Granada. History, poetry, and science have tried their
several hands upon it. Romance has been so busy with it that it is not
an easy task to disentangle the web of fiction, and get the only part of
the tale worth knowing. So dear is truth, the simple, naked truth of
history, to every true soul, that he is a great doer of evil who seizes
upon history, and while professing to write it, weaves into his story
the fancies of his own prolific genius, and that so deftly and so
charmingly that the whole is accepted as veritable history, and the
romance as the most credible and interesting of the whole. Early English
history has thus been illustrated and inextricably confused. The spell
of the magician’s wand has thus made the conquest of Mexico a poem
rather than a reliable narrative. And Spain, more than any other land,
is now hopelessly given up to legends and doubtful chronicles, modern
and antique, so that one who reads must have either the credulity of a
devotee, or the indifference of folly, to read with satisfaction the
ancient history of the Peninsula.
But the Alhambra is here! Granada is where it was a thousand years ago!
The same deep blue sky, the bluest sky that covers any land, hangs over
its magnificent Vega or plain, through which the Darro and the Genil,
united, flow! The hills, each one with a story that can be scarcely
heard without a tear, stand where and as they did when the Moors were
masters of this region, which they thought the terrestrial paradise of
man, and immediately under the celestial mansions where the Prophet and
the Houris await the coming of all true believers. The Sierra Nevada,
covered with perpetual snow, seems close at hand, as it lies on the
eastern horizon, and in this cloudless sky and brilliant atmosphere the
long range shines like silver mountains in the noontide, as it did when
fleet horsemen brought its ice in baskets to cool the drinks of Wali
Zawi Ibu Zeyn, its first Moorish king. Those snowy summits reminded the
Arabs when they came here of Mount Hermon, and this plain seemed to them
to surpass in fertility and beauty the Vega around Damascus.
And to this day the palm-tree, the pomegranate, and the fig, the orange
and lemon, the olive and vine, flourish under the genial sun. In these
declining years of the nineteenth century, with a railroad running into
the city across the heart of this paradise, and telegraphs linking it
with Madrid and London and Washington, the peasants still scratch the
ground with the root of a tree for a plough, and carry their produce to
market on the back of a donkey.
The creations of the Moors in Spain form the most remarkable chapter in
human art. To me, Spain has been a new discovery; a sudden revelation of
a world within a world; the monuments of an extinct or departed race
standing alone in a desert. The generation that now possesses the soil
has nothing of the genius or taste or spirit of the barbaric tribes that
were once their masters. And the Alhambra at Granada, the Mosque at
Cordova, and the Alcazar at Seville, look like the wrecks of a stranded
empire, whose people live only in their glorious ruins.
In the language of a brilliant historian, “Spain stands to-day a hideous
skeleton among living nations.”
They have a legend here that Adam made a visit to the earth a few years
ago, to see how his farm was getting on. He alighted in Germany, and
found schools and colleges and books, and the people intent on learning.
He soon left it for France, where the people dressed in fantastic
styles, and were mad upon works of art and improvements unknown to our
great ancestor. Disgusted with all he saw, he came down to Spain, and,
with delight, exclaimed, “This is just as I left it.”
Adam was nearly right. Of all the countries in Europe this is more _as
it was_ than any other. The greatest calamity that ever happened to
Spain was its expulsion of the Moors; and it will be a century, perhaps
many centuries, before the arts and sciences will flourish on this soil
as they did before that year, so memorable for the discovery of the New
World by Columbus, and the overthrow of the kingdom of Granada by
Ferdinand and Isabella. Both those events, forming the most momentous
epoch in the history of Spain, occurred in the year 1492, from which
period we may date the decline of an empire enriched by the untold
wealth of a new world added to its possessions, and strengthened by the
destruction of the last stronghold of its former conquerors and masters.
Foreign capital and enterprise have forced railroads across her
mountains and plains, but the capital and enterprise of the world cannot
make them profitable, when the people have no industry and no ambition.
The mines of Spain are so rich that she has no need of possessions in
the gold fields of the western hemisphere; and they have been known and
worked ever since the days of the Phœnicians, when Andalusia was the
Tarshish of Holy Scripture. Yet Spain is more distinguished to-day, as
being behind the world, than for aught it has done or is doing for
itself or others. And it often seems to a traveller here in Spain that
he is in the Orient, so many manners and customs, so many works, and,
much more, such a want of things he is wont to meet with in the more
civilized nations, remind him that he is among a people who have derived
much of what they have and are from lands at the other end of the
Mediterranean Sea.
It has a mixed race of inhabitants. It would not be strange if it had a
mixed government also. Successive tides of people have swept over it,
and the vestiges of all are left on the surface of the nation. Very
little, indeed, is known of the days when the Iberians from Caucasus,
and the Celts from Gaul, were the rude settlers of Spain; but the traces
are more plain of the Phœnicians, who came here 1500 years before the
birth of Jesus, and founded Cadiz and Malaga, and Cordova and Seville.
In the year 218 before Christ the Romans came, and, of course, conquered
all Spain, and reigned here just six centuries. Then came the Goths,
sweeping the Romans out of Spain as they crushed Rome in Italy. And the
Goths ruled Spain precisely 300 years. Then came the Moors, and, in two
pitched battles, smote the Gothic Christian power to the earth; and,
like a hurricane from the African coast, rushed up from the south, and
never stayed its destructive course till the crescent had supplanted the
cross on every tower in Spain. The Moors were lords of Spain just seven
centuries. Gradually the crescent waned, as the Catholic Christian kings
recovered strength, until St. Ferdinand captured Cordova, in 1235, and
Ferdinand and Isabella completed the work at Granada, on the third day
of the year 1492, and the last of the Moorish kings fled from the
Alhambra.