CHAPTER VI.--A PECCARY HUNT ON THE NUECES.

In the United States the peccary is only found in the southernmost

corner of Texas. In April 1892, I made a flying visit to the ranch

country of this region, starting from the town of Uvalde with a Texan

friend, Mr. John Moore. My trip being very hurried, I had but a couple

of days to devote to hunting.

Our first halting-place was at a ranch on the Frio; a low, wooden

building, of many rooms, with open galleries between them, and verandas

round about. The country was in some respects like, in others strangely

unlike, the northern plains with which I was so well acquainted. It

was for the most part covered with a scattered growth of tough,

stunted mesquite trees, not dense enough to be called a forest, and

yet sufficiently close to cut off the view. It was very dry, even as

compared with the northern plains. The bed of the Frio was filled with

coarse gravel, and for the most part dry as a bone on the surface, the

water seeping through underneath, and only appearing in occasional

deep holes. These deep holes or ponds never fail, even after a year's

drought; they were filled with fish. One lay quite near the ranch house,

under a bold rocky bluff; at its edge grew giant cypress trees. In

the hollows and by the watercourses were occasional groves of pecans,

live-oaks, and elms. Strange birds hopped among the bushes; the

chaparral cock--a big, handsome ground-cuckoo of remarkable habits, much

given to preying on small snakes and lizards--ran over the ground with

extraordinary rapidity. Beautiful swallow-tailed king-birds with rosy

plumage perched on the tops of the small trees, and soared and flitted

in graceful curves above them. Blackbirds of many kinds scuttled

in flocks about the corrals and outbuildings around the ranches.

Mocking-birds abounded, and were very noisy, singing almost all the

daytime, but with their usual irritating inequality of performance,

wonderfully musical and powerful snatches of song being interspersed

with imitations of other bird notes and disagreeable squalling.

Throughout the trip I did not hear one of them utter the beautiful love

song in which they sometimes indulge at night.

The country was all under wire fence, unlike the northern regions, the

pastures however being sometimes many miles across. When we reached the

Frio ranch a herd of a thousand cattle had just been gathered, and two

or three hundred beeves and young stock were being cut out to be driven

northward over the trail. The cattle were worked in pens much more than

in the North, and on all the ranches there were chutes with steering

gates, by means of which individuals of a herd could be dexterously

shifted into various corrals. The branding of the calves was done

ordinarily in one of these corrals and on foot, the calf being always

roped by both forelegs; otherwise the work of the cowpunchers was much

like that of their brothers in the North. As a whole, however, they were

distinctly more proficient with the rope, and at least half of them were

Mexicans.

There were some bands of wild cattle living only in the densest timber

of the river bottoms which were literally as wild as deer, and moreover

very fierce and dangerous. The pursuit of these was exciting and

hazardous in the extreme. The men who took part in it showed not only

the utmost daring but the most consummate horsemanship and wonderful

skill in the use of the rope, the coil being hurled with the force and

precision of an iron quoit; a single man speedily overtaking, roping,

throwing, and binding down the fiercest steer or bull.

There had been many peccaries, or, as the Mexicans and cowpunchers of

the border usually call them, javalinas, round this ranch a few years

before the date of my visit. Until 1886, or thereabouts, these little

wild hogs were not much molested, and abounded in the dense chaparral

around the lower Rio Grande. In that year, however, it was suddenly

discovered that their hides had a market value, being worth four

bits--that is, half a dollar--apiece; and many Mexicans and not a few

shiftless Texans went into the business of hunting them as a means of

livelihood. They were more easily killed than deer, and, as a result,

they were speedily exterminated in many localities where they had

formerly been numerous, and even where they were left were to be found

only in greatly diminished numbers. On this particular Frio ranch the

last little band had been killed nearly a year before. There were three

of them, a boar and two sows, and a couple of the cowboys stumbled on

them early one morning while out with a dog. After half a mile's

chase the three peccaries ran into a hollow pecan tree, and one of the

cowboys, dismounting, improvised a lance by tying his knife to the end

of a pole, and killed them all.

Many anecdotes were related to me of what they had done in the old days

when they were plentiful on the ranch. They were then usually found in

parties of from twenty to thirty, feeding in the dense chaparral, the

sows rejoining the herd with the young very soon after the birth of the

litter, each sow usually having but one or two at a litter. At night

they sometimes lay in the thickest cover, but always, where possible,

preferred to house in a cave or big hollow log, one invariably remaining

as a sentinel close to the mouth, looking out. If this sentinel were

shot, another would almost certainly take his place. They were subject

to freaks of stupidity, and were pugnacious to a degree. Not only would

they fight if molested, but they would often attack entirely without

provocation.

Once my friend Moore himself, while out with another cowboy on

horseback, was attacked in sheer wantonness by a drove of these little

wild hogs. The two men were riding by a grove of live-oaks along a

woodcutter's cart track, and were assailed without a moment's warning.

The little creatures completely surrounded them, cutting fiercely at the

horses' legs and jumping up at the riders' feet. The men, drawing their

revolvers, dashed through and were closely followed by their pursuers

for three or four hundred yards, although they fired right and left with

good effect. Both of the horses were badly cut. On another occasion the

bookkeeper of the ranch walked off to a water hole but a quarter of a

mile distant, and came face to face with a peccary on a cattle trail,

where the brush was thick. Instead of getting out of his way the

creature charged him instantly, drove him up a small mesquite tree, and

kept him there for nearly two hours, looking up at him and champing its

tusks.

I spent two days hunting round this ranch but saw no peccary sign

whatever, although deer were quite plentiful. Parties of wild geese and

sandhill cranes occasionally flew overhead. At nightfall the poor-wills

wailed everywhere through the woods, and coyotes yelped and yelled,

while in the early morning the wild turkeys gobbled loudly from their

roosts in the tops of the pecan trees.

Having satisfied myself that there were no javalinas left on the Frio

ranch, and being nearly at the end of my holiday, I was about to abandon

the effort to get any, when a passing cowman happened to mention the

fact that some were still to be found on the Nueces River thirty miles

or thereabouts to the southward. Thither I determined to go, and next

morning Moore and I started in a buggy drawn by a redoubtable horse,

named Jim Swinger, which we were allowed to use because he bucked so

under the saddle that nobody on the ranch could ride him. We drove six

or seven hours across the dry, waterless plains. There had been a heavy

frost a few days before, which had blackened the budding mesquite trees,

and their twigs still showed no signs of sprouting. Occasionally we came

across open space where there was nothing but short brown grass. In most

places, however, the leafless, sprawling mesquites were scattered rather

thinly over the ground, cutting off an extensive view and merely adding

to the melancholy barrenness of the landscape. The road was nothing but

a couple of dusty wheel-tracks; the ground was parched, and the grass

cropped close by the gaunt, starved cattle. As we drove along buzzards

and great hawks occasionally soared overhead. Now and then we passed

lines of wild-looking, long-horned steers, and once we came on the

grazing horses of a cow-outfit, just preparing to start northward over

the trail to the fattening pasture. Occasionally we encountered one or

two cowpunchers: either Texans, habited exactly like their brethren in

the North, with broad-brimmed gray hats, blue shirts, silk neckerchiefs,

and leather leggings; or else Mexicans, more gaudily dressed, and

wearing peculiarly stiff, very broad-brimmed hats with conical tops.

Toward the end of our ride we got where the ground was more fertile,

and there had recently been a sprinkling of rain. Here we came across

wonderful flower prairies. In one spot I kept catching glimpses through

the mesquite trees of lilac stretches which I had first thought must

be ponds of water. On coming nearer they proved to be acres on acres

thickly covered with beautiful lilac-colored flowers. Farther on we

came to where broad bands of red flowers covered the ground for many

furlongs; then their places were taken by yellow blossoms, elsewhere

by white. Generally each band or patch of ground was covered densely

by flowers of the same color, making a great vivid streak across the

landscape; but in places they were mixed together, red, yellow, and

purple, interspersed in patches and curving bands, carpeting the prairie

in a strange, bright pattern.

Finally, toward evening we reached the Nueces. Where we struck it first

the bed was dry, except in occasional deep, malarial-looking pools, but

a short distance below there began to be a running current. Great blue

herons were stalking beside these pools, and from one we flushed a white

ibis. In the woods were reddish cardinal birds, much less brilliant

in plumage than the true cardinals and the scarlet tanagers; and

yellow-headed titmice which had already built large domed nests.

In the valley of the Nueces itself, the brush grew thick. There were

great groves of pecan trees, and ever-green live-oaks stood in many

places, long, wind-shaken tufts of gray moss hanging from their limbs.

Many of the trees in the wet spots were of giant size, and the whole

landscape was semi-tropical in character. High on a bluff shoulder

overlooking the course of the river was perched the ranch house, toward

which we were bending our steps; and here we were received with the

hearty hospitality characteristic of the ranch country everywhere.

The son of the ranchman, a tall, well-built young fellow, told me at

once that there were peccaries in the neighborhood, and that he had

himself shot one but two or three days before, and volunteered to lend

us horses and pilot us to the game on the morrow, with the help of

his two dogs. The last were big black curs with, as we were assured,

"considerable hound" in them. One was at the time staying at the ranch

house, the other was four or five miles off with a Mexican goat-herder,

and it was arranged that early in the morning we should ride down to the

latter place, taking the first dog with us and procuring his companion

when we reached the goat-herder's house.

We started after breakfast, riding powerful cow-ponies, well trained to

gallop at full speed through the dense chaparral. The big black hound

slouched at our heels. We rode down the banks of the Nueces, crossing

and recrossing the stream. Here and there were long, deep pools in the

bed of the river, where rushes and lilies grew and huge mailed

garfish swam slowly just beneath the surface of the water. Once my two

companions stopped to pull a mired cow out of a slough, hauling with

ropes from their saddle horns. In places there were half-dry pools,

out of the regular current of the river, the water green and fetid. The

trees were very tall and large. The streamers of pale gray moss hung

thickly from the branches of the live-oaks, and when many trees thus

draped stood close together they bore a strangely mournful and desolate

look.

We finally found the queer little hut of the Mexican goat-herder in the

midst of a grove of giant pecans. On the walls were nailed the skins

of different beasts, raccoons, wild-cats, and the tree-civet, with its

ringed tail. The Mexican's brown wife and children were in the hut, but

the man himself and the goats were off in the forest, and it took us

three or four hours' search before we found him. Then it was nearly

noon, and we lunched in his hut, a square building of split logs, with

bare earth floor, and roof of clap-boards and bark. Our lunch consisted

of goat's meat and _pan de mais_. The Mexican, a broad-chested man with

a stolid Indian face, was evidently quite a sportsman, and had two or

three half-starved hounds, besides the funny, hairless little house

dogs, of which Mexicans seem so fond.

Having borrowed the javalina hound of which we were in search, we rode

off in quest of our game, the two dogs trotting gayly ahead. The one

which had been living at the ranch had evidently fared well, and was

very fat; the other was little else but skin and bone, but as alert and

knowing as any New York street-boy, with the same air of disreputable

capacity. It was this hound which always did most in finding the

javalinas and bringing them to bay, his companion's chief use being to

make a noise and lend the moral support of his presence.

We rode away from the river on the dry uplands, where the timber, though

thick, was small, consisting almost exclusively of the thorny mesquites.

Mixed among them were prickly pears, standing as high as our heads on

horseback, and Spanish bayonets, looking in the distance like small

palms; and there were many other kinds of cactus, all with poisonous

thorns. Two or three times the dogs got on an old trail and rushed off

giving tongue, whereat we galloped madly after them, ducking and dodging

through and among the clusters of spine-bearing tress and cactus, not

without getting a considerable number of thorns in our hands and legs.

It was very dry and hot. Where the javalinas live in droves in the river

bottoms they often drink at the pools; but when some distance from water

they seem to live quite comfortably on the prickly pear, slaking their

thirst by eating its hard, juicy fibre.

At last, after several false alarms, and gallops which led to nothing,

when it lacked but an hour of sundown we struck a band of five of the

little wild hogs. They were running off through the mesquites with a

peculiar hopping or bounding motion, and we all, dogs and men, tore

after them instantly.

Peccaries are very fast for a few hundred yards, but speedily tire, lose

their wind, and come to bay. Almost immediately one of these, a sow, as

it turned out, wheeled and charged at Moore as he passed, Moore never

seeing her but keeping on after another. The sow then stopped and stood

still, chattering her teeth savagely, and I jumped off my horse and

dropped her dead with a shot in the spine, over the shoulders. Moore

meanwhile had dashed off after his pig in one direction, and killed

the little beast with a shot from the saddle when it had come to bay,

turning and going straight at him. Two of the peccaries got off; the

remaining one, a rather large boar, was followed by the two dogs, and as

soon as I had killed the sow I leaped again on my horse and made after

them, guided by the yelping and baying. In less than a quarter of a

mile they were on his haunches, and he wheeled and stood under a

bush, charging at them when they came near him, and once catching

one, inflicting an ugly cut. All the while his teeth kept going like

castanets, with a rapid champing sound. I ran up close and killed him

by a shot through the backbone where it joined the neck. His tusks were

fine.

The few minutes' chase on horseback was great fun, and there was a

certain excitement in seeing the fierce little creatures come to bay;

but the true way to kill these peccaries would be with the spear. They

could often be speared on horseback, and where this was impossible, by

using dogs to bring them to bay they could readily be killed on foot;

though, as they are very active, absolutely fearless, and inflict a most

formidable bite, it would usually be safest to have two men go at one

together. Peccaries are not difficult beasts to kill, because their

short wind and their pugnacity make them come to bay before hounds

so quickly. Two or three good dogs can bring to a halt a herd of

considerable size. They then all stand in a bunch, or else with their

sterns against a bank, chattering their teeth at their antagonist. When

angry and at bay, they get their legs close together, their shoulders

high, and their bristles all ruffled and look the very incarnation

of anger, and they fight with reckless indifference to the very last.

Hunters usually treat them with a certain amount of caution; but, as a

matter of act, I know of but one case where a man was hurt by them.

He had shot at and wounded one, was charged both by it and by its two

companions, and started to climb a tree; but as he drew himself from

the ground, one sprang at him and bit him through the calf, inflicting

a very severe wound. I have known of several cases of horses being cut,

however, and the dogs are very commonly killed. Indeed, a dog new to the

business is almost certain to get very badly scarred, and no dog that

hunts steadily can escape without some injury. If it runs in right at

the heads of the animals, the probabilities are that it will get killed;

and, as a rule, even two good-sized hounds cannot kill a peccary,

though it is no larger than either of them. However, a wary, resolute,

hard-biting dog of good size speedily gets accustomed to the chase, and

can kill a peccary single-handed, seizing it from behind and worrying it

to death, or watching its chance and grabbing it by the back of the neck

where it joins the head.

Peccaries have delicately moulded short legs, and their feet are small,

the tracks looking peculiarly dainty in consequence. Hence, they do

not swim well, though they take to the water if necessary. They feed

on roots, prickly pears, nuts, insects, lizards, etc. They usually keep

entirely separate from the droves of half-wild swine that are so often

found in the same neighborhoods; but in one case, on this very ranch

where I was staying a peccary deliberately joined a party of nine pigs

and associated with them. When the owner of the pigs came up to them one

day the peccary manifested great suspicion at his presence, and finally

sidled close up and threatened to attack him, so that he had to shoot

it. The ranchman's son told me that he had never but once had a peccary

assail him unprovoked, and even in this case it was his dog that was the

object of attack, the peccary rushing out at it as it followed him home

one evening through the chaparral. Even around this ranch the peccaries

had very greatly decreased in numbers, and the survivors were learning

some caution. In the old days it had been no uncommon thing for a big

band to attack entirely of their own accord, and keep a hunter up a tree

for hours at a time.

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