justice and honesty that would weigh in favour of the Australian native.
As one instance, let me ask, if anything could have been more just, than
the feeling which prompted the native to return the blanket one of his
tribe had stolen from the camp on the banks of the Castlereagh, as
detailed in my former work, vol. i. page 141. The man who restored the
lost property was apprehensive of danger, from the fact of his having
come armed, and from his guarded and menacing attitude when the soldier
approached to ascertain what he wanted. Had he been the father of the
thief, we could only have said that it was a singular proof of honest
pride by a single individual, but such was not the case, the whole tribe
participated in the same feeling, for we learnt from them, that the thief
had been punished and expelled their camp. Could anything have been more
noble than the conduct of the native, who remained neuter, and separated
himself from them, when the tribes attempted to surprise my camp on the
Murrumbidgee, because I had made him presents as I went down that river,
vol. ii. page 212. On the other hand, could anything have been more just
than the punishment inflicted on the boy who stole my servant Davenport's
blanket at Fort Grey? as mentioned in the present work; or the decision
of the two sons of the Boocolo of Williorara, as regarded the conveyance
of our letter-bag to Lake Victoria? Here are broad instances of honesty
that would do credit to any civilized nation. Surely men, who can so
feel, should not be put lowest in the scale of the human race? It is true
that all attempts to improve the social condition of the Australian
native has failed, but where is the savage nation with which we have
succeeded better? The natives of New Zealand will perhaps be the only
instance, in modern times, of a barbarous race surviving the introduction
of civilization amongst them. Without venturing to compare the natives of
Australia, to a people so much superior, I would only claim for them a
due share of consideration. All I can say is that they have submitted to
our occupation of their country with a forbearance that commands our best
sympathies.
It will be borne in mind, that I have not here spoken of their personal
appearance. That that generally is against them, cannot be doubted. If
there is any truth in phrenology, they must have their share of the
brutal passions. The whole appearance of the cranium indeed, would lead
to the conclusion that they possess few of the intellectual faculties;
but, in a savage state, these are seldom called forth. They are,
nevertheless, capable of strong attachment, are indulgent parents, and
certainly evince a kindly feeling towards their relations, are
improvident and generous, having no thought for the morrow. On the other
hand, they are revengeful and crafty, and treat their wives with much
harshness, imposing on them the burthen of almost everything: that man
being considered the richest who has the greatest number, because he can
sit in his hut, and send them out to procure food.
I think it is agreed on all hands that the natives of Australia are
sprung from the same parent stock. Their personal appearance and customs,
if not their dialects, shew this. From what race they originally sprang
it is more difficult to determine, for there is not one of the great
families into which the human race has been divided, with which they may
properly be classed. With such features as they generally possess, in the
flattened nose, thick lip, and overhanging brow, one can hardly fancy
that they would be good looking, but I certainly have seen very good
looking men amongst them--I may say tribes, indeed, on the Darling for
instance, and on the Murrumbidgee, (see page 53, vol. ii. of my last
work.) The men on Cooper's Creek were fine rather than handsome.
Generally speaking, the natives have beautiful teeth, and their eye,
though deep sunk, is full of fire. Although their muscular development is
bad, they must have a very remarkable strength of sinew, or they could
not otherwise raise themselves, as they do, on so slender a footing in
climbing up the trees, and in many other occupations. I have read in
several authors that the natives of Australia have woolly hair. This is a
mistake; their hair is as fine and as curly as that of an European, but
its natural beauty is destroyed by filth and neglect. Nothing can prove
its strength more than the growth of their beards, which project from
their chins, and are exceedingly stiff.
In many places the natives have but a scanty and precarious subsistence,
which may in some measure account for the paucity of their numbers in
some localities. In many parts of the country in which I have been I feel
satisfied they can seldom procure animal food, as they would not
otherwise resort to the use of some things which no time could, I should
imagine, make palateable. Their dexterity at the chase is very great,
although in hunting the kangaroo they become so nervous that they
frequently miss their mark. I have seen them sink under water and bring
up a fish writhing on the short spear they use on such occasions, which
they have struck either in the forehead, or under the lateral fin, with
unerring precision. Still some of our people come pretty close to them in
many of their exercises of the chase, and the young settlers on the
Murray very often put them to the blush. At the head of them is Mr.
Scott, Mr. Eyre's companion, who has now succeeded him in the post at
Moorundi. There is not a native on the river so expert in throwing the
spear, in taking kangaroo or fish, or in the canoe, as he is. His spear
is thrown with deadly precision, and he has so mixed with the natives,
that he may be said to be one of themselves, having the most unbounded
influence over them, and speaking their language as fluently as
themselves. Mr. Scott is at the same time very firm and decided, and is
exceedingly respected by the settlers on the Murray. Under such
circumstances it is to be hoped he will emulate Mr. Eyre and effect much
good among his sable friends. Their devotion and attachment to him is
very remarkable, and every native on the Murray knows "Merrili," as he is
called.
One great cause of the deaths amongst the Aborigines is their liability
to pulmonary diseases from being constantly in the water. They are much
annoyed by rain, nor will any thing induce them to stir during wet
weather, but they sit shivering in their huts even in the height of
summer. There is no people in the world so unprovided against inclemency
or extremes of weather as they are. They have literally nothing to cover
them, to protect them from the summer heat or the winter's cold; nor
would any charity be greater than to supply these poor people with
clothing. A few blankets, a few Guernsey shirts, and woollen trowsers,
would be to them a boon of the first importance, and I would that my
voice in their favour could induce the many who are humane and charitable
here to devote a small portion of that which they bestow in works and
purposes of charity to think of these children of the desert. It is only
by accustoming them to comforts, and to implements which they cannot
afterwards do without, to supersede as it were their former customs, that
we can hope to draw them towards civilized man and civilization; for what
inducement has the savage with his wild freedom and uncontrolled will, to
submit to restraint, unless he reap some advantage?
The yearly and monthly distribution of blankets and of flour to the
natives at Moorundi is duly appreciated. They now possess many things
which they prefer to their own implements. The fish-hooks they procure
from the Europeans are valued by them beyond measure, since they prevent
the necessity of their being constantly in the water, and you now see the
river, at the proper season, lined by black anglers, and the quantity of
fish they take is really astonishing, and those too of the finest kinds.
I once saw Mr. Scott secure a Murray cod, floating on the top of the
water, that weighed 72lbs. This beautiful and excellent fish is figured
in Mitchell's first work. It is a species of perch, and is very abundant,
as well as several others of its own genus, that are richer but smaller;
the general size of the cod varying from 15lbs. to 25lbs.
The manners and customs of the natives have been so well and so
faithfully recorded by Mr. Eyre that I need not dwell on them here. My
views have been philanthropic, my object, to explain the manner in which
I have succeeded in communicating with such of them as had never before
seen Europeans, in order to ensure to the explorer, if possible, the
peaceable results I myself have experienced. There are occasions when
collisions with the natives are unavoidable, but I speak as to general
intercourse. I feel assured no man can perform his duty as an explorer,
who is under constant apprehension of hostility from the people through
whose country he is passing.
The province of South Australia could never at any time have been thickly
inhabited. There are some numerous tribes on the sea-coast at the head of
the Gulfs and in Encounter Bay, as well as on the Murray River, but with
the exception of a few scattered families on the northern hills, and in
the scrub, the mountain ranges are, and it appears to me have been,
almost uninhabited. There are no old or recent signs of natives having
frequented the hills, no marks of tomahawks on the trees, or of digging
on the flats. The Mount Lofty ranges, indeed, are singularly deficient of
animal life, and seem to be incapable of affording much subsistence to
the savage, however luxuriant and beneficial the harvest they now yield.
The Adelaide tribe is not numerous; they occupy a portion of the Park
lands, called the native location, and every encouragement has been given
them to establish themselves in comfort on it, but they prefer their wild
roving habits to any fixed pursuit. Nevertheless, they are variously
employed by the townspeople, in carrying burthens, in cutting up wood, in
drawing water, and similar occupations; and, independently of any
assistance they may receive from the Government, earn an immense quantity
of food from the citizens. The natives properly belonging to the Adelaide
tribe are all more or less clothed, nor are they permitted by the police
to appear otherwise, and as far as their connection with the settlers
goes, they are fast falling into habits of order, and understand that
they cannot do any thing improper with impunity.
The Murray tribe, as well as the tribes from the south, frequently visit
their friends near the capital, and on such occasions some scene of
violence or dispute generally ensues. Frequently the abduction of a
lubra, or of an unmarried female of another tribe, brings about a
quarrel, and on such occasions some angry fighting is sure to follow; and
so long as that custom remains, there is little hope of improvement
amongst them. The subject of ameliorating their condition is, however,
one of great difficulty, because it cannot be done without violating
those principles of freedom and independence on which it is so
objectionable to infringe; but when a great ultimate good is to be
obtained, I cannot myself see any objection to those restraints, and that
interference which should bring it about. There is nowhere, not even in
Sydney, more attention paid to the native population than in South
Australia, and if they stand a chance of improvement it is there. Whilst
every kindness is shewn to the adult portion, the children are under the
direct care of the Government. There is, as I have elsewhere stated, a
school, at which from thirty to forty boys and girls attend. Nothing can
be more regular or more comfortable than this institution. The children
are kindly treated, and very much encouraged, and really to go into it as
a visitor, one would be disposed to encourage the most sanguine
expectations of success. As far as the elementary principles of education
go, the native children are far from deficient. They read, write, and
cypher as well as European children of their own age, and, generally
speaking, are quiet and well behaved; but it is to be regretted that, as
far as our experience goes, they can advance no farther; when their
reason is taxed, they fail, and consequently appear to be destitute of
those finer qualifications and principles on which both moral feeling and
social order are based. It is however questionable with me whether this
is not too severe a construction to put on their intellect, and whether,
if the effect of ancient habits were counteracted, we should find the
same mental defect.
At present, the native children have free intercourse with their parents,
and with their tribe. The imaginations of the boys are inflamed by seeing
all that passes in a native camp, and they long for that moment, when,
like their countrymen, they will be free to go where they please, and to
join in the hunt or the fray. The girls are told that they are betrothed,
and that, at a certain age, they must join their tribe. The voice of
Nature is stronger even than that of Reason. Why therefore should we be
surprised at the desertion of the children from the native schools? But
it will be asked--What is to be done? The question, as I have said, is
involved in difficulty, because, in my humble opinion, the only remedy
involves a violation, for a time at all events, of the natural
affections, by obliging a complete separation of the child from its
parents; but, I must confess, I do not think that any good will result
from the utmost perseverance of philanthropy, until such is the case,
that is, until the children are kept in such total ignorance of their
forefathers, as to look upon them as Europeans do, with astonishment and
sympathy. It may be argued that this experiment would require too great a
sacrifice of feeling, but I doubt this. Besides which, it is a question
whether it is not our duty to do that which shall conduce most to the
benefit of posterity. The injury, admitting it to be so, can only be
inflicted on the present generation, the benefit would be felt to all
futurity. I have not, I hope, a disposition for the character of an
inhuman man, and certainly have not written thus much without due
consideration of the subject, but my own experience tells me we are often
obliged to adopt a line of conduct we would willingly avoid to ensure a
public good.
It will not then, I trust, be thought that I have ventured to intrude
this opinion on the public, with any other views than those which true
philanthropy dictates. I am really and sincerely interested in the fate
of the Australian Aborigine, and throw out these suggestions, derived
from long and deep practical experience, in the ardent hope that they may
help to produce the permanent happiness of an inoffensive and harmless
race.
MR. KENNEDY'S SURVEY OF THE RIVER VICTORIA.
Whilst I was endeavouring to penetrate into the heart of the Australian
Continent, there were two other Expeditions of Discovery engaged in
exploring the country to the eastward of me. Dr. Leichhardt, an account
of whose successful and enterprising journey from Moreton Bay to Port
Essington is already before the public, was keeping the high lands at no
great distance from the coast, and Sir Thomas Mitchell, the
Surveyor-General of New South Wales, was traversing the more depressed
interior, between my own and Dr. Leichhardt's tracks. The distance at
which Dr. Leichhardt passed the extreme westerly point gained by me was
600 geographical miles, and his distance from my extreme easterly one was
420 miles; Sir Thomas Mitchell's distance from my extreme west, being
about 380 miles, and that from my last position, (on Cooper's Creek),
about 260. He had been traversing a country of great richness and
fertility, a country, indeed, such as he had never before seen, and in a
despatch addressed to the Governor of New South Wales, thus describes it
and the river he discovered on the occasion:--
"On ascending the range early next morning, I saw open downs and plains
with a line of river in the midst, the whole extending to the N.N.W., as
far as the horizon. Following down the little stream from the valley in
which I had passed the night, I soon reached the open country, and during
ten successive days I pursued the course of that river, through the same
sort of country, each day as far as my horse could carry me, and in the
same direction again approaching the Tropic of Capricorn. In some parts
the river formed splendid reaches, as broad and important as the river
Murray; in others it spread into four or five branches, some of them
several miles apart. But the whole country is better watered than any
part of Australia I have seen, by numerous tributaries arising in the
downs.
"The soil consists of rich clay, and the hollows give birth to numerous
water-courses, in most of which water was abundant. I found at length
that I might travel in any direction, and find water at hand, without
having to seek the river, except when I wished to ascertain its general
course, and observe its character. The grass consists of Panicum and
several new sorts, one of which springs green from the old stem. The
plains were verdant indeed, the luxuriant pasturage surpassed in quality,
as it did in extent, any thing I had ever seen. The Myall-tree and salt
bush, (Acacia pendula and salsolae), so essential to a good run, are also
there. New birds and new plants marked this out as an essentially
different region from any I had previously explored; and although I could
not follow the river throughout its long course at that advanced season,
I was convinced that its estuary was in the Gulf of Carpentaria; at all
events the country is open and well watered for a direct route thereto.
That the river is the most important of Australia, increasing as it does
by successive tributaries, and not a mere product of distant ranges,
admits of no dispute; and the downs and plains of Central Australia,
through which it flows, seem sufficient to supply the whole world with
animal food. The natives are few and inoffensive. I happened to surprise
one tribe at a lagoon, who did not seem to be averse that such strangers
were in that country; our number being small, they seemed inclined to
follow us. I crossed the river at the lowest point I reached, in a great
southerly bend in long. 144 degrees 34 minutes east, lat. 24 degrees 14
minutes south, and from rising ground beyond the left bank, I could trace
its downward course far to the northward. I saw no Callitris (Pine of the
colonists) in all that country, but a range, shewing sandstone cliffs
appeared to the southward, in long. 145 degrees and lat. 24 degrees 30
minutes south. The country to the northward of the river, is, upon the
whole, the best, yet, in riding ninety miles due east from where I
crossed the southern bend, I found plenty of water, and excellent grass,
a red gravel there approaches the river, throwing it off to the
northward. Ranges extending N. N. W. were occasionally visible from the
country to the northward."
Sir Thomas Mitchell's position at his extreme west was more than 460
miles from the nearest part of the Gulf of Carpentaria; he was in a low
country, and on the banks of a river which had ceased to flow. Whatever
the local appearances might have been, which led the Surveyor-General to
conclude that it would reach the northern coast, I do not know, but
notwithstanding the favourable report he made of it, I never for a moment
anticipated that this river would do so; I felt assured, indeed, that
however promising it might be, it would either enter the Stony Desert or
be found to turn southward, and be lost amongst marshes and lagoons. The
appearance of Cooper's Creek might have justified my most sanguine
expectations, but I was too well aware of the character of Australian
rivers, and had seen too much of the country into which they fall, to
trust them beyond the range of sight. My natural course on the discovery
of Cooper's Creek would have been to have traced it downwards, but I was
not unmindful that I should keep it between myself and the track on which
Mr. Browne and I had last returned from the north-west interior, in
pursuing the northerly course I intended, and I consequently felt
satisfied, after a little consideration, that if it continued northerly,
I should strike it again; if not, that it would either spread over the
Stony Desert, or fall short of it altogether.
On making this discovery, therefore, my hopes were centered in its
upward, not its downward course, for judging that in crossing the Stony
Desert, I had crossed the lowest part of the interior, my anticipations
of finding any important river in the central regions of Australia were
destroyed. My endeavour had been, not only to examine the country through
which I was immediately passing, but to deduce from it, what might be its
more extended features, and to put together such facts as I reasonably
could, to elucidate the past and present state of the continent. In the
course of my investigations, I saw grounds for believing that the fall of
the interior was from north to south and from east to west. However much
the more northerly streams might hold to the northward and westward,
whilst in the hilly country, I felt assured, that as soon as they gained
the depressed interior, they would double round to the southward, and
thus disappoint the explorer. Sir Thomas Mitchell himself tells us, that
every river he traced on his recent journey, excepting the Victoria,
disappointed him, by turning to that point and entering a sandy country.
It is evident, indeed, upon the face of Sir Thomas Mitchell's journal,
that there are no mountains in that part of the interior, in which the
basins of the Victoria must lie, or from which a river could emanate, of
such a character, as to lead even the most sanguine to expect, that after
having ceased to flow, it would continue onwards for another 460 miles
through such a country. From the favour able nature of the
Surveyor-General's report, however, it was deemed a point of great
importance to ascertain the further course of the river, and Mr. Kennedy,
a young and intelligent officer, who had accompanied Sir Thomas Mitchell
into the interior, was ordered on this interesting service. Before I make
any observations, however, on the result of his investigations, I shall
give the following extract from his letter to the Colonial Secretary, on
his return from the interior.
"Having reached the lowest point of the Victoria attained by the
Surveyor-General, I was directed to pursue the river, and determine the
course thereof as accurately as my light equipment, and consequent rapid
progress, might permit. Accordingly, on the 13th of August we moved down
the river, and at 4 1/2 miles crossed over to its proper right bank; the
Victoria is there bounded on the south by a low sand-stone ridge, covered
with brigalow; and on the north by fine grassy plains, with here and
there clumps of the silver leaf brigalow; at seven miles we passed a fine
deep reach, below which the river is divided into three channels, and
inclines more to the southward; at thirteen miles we encamped upon the
centre channel; the three were about half a mile apart, the southern one
under the ridge being the deepest; we found water in each, but I believe
it to be only permanent in the southernmost, which contains a fine reach,
one mile below our encampment, in latitude 24 degrees 17 minutes 34
seconds; an intelligent native, whom we met there with his family on our
return, gave me the name of the river, which they call Barcoo. I also
obtained from him several useful words, which he seemed to take a
pleasure in giving, and which I entered in my journal.
"Between the parallels of 24 minutes 17 seconds and 24 minutes 53
seconds, the river preserves generally a very direct course to the
south-south-west, and maintains an unvaried character, although the
supply of water greatly decreases below the latitude of 24 degrees 25
minutes. It is divided into three principal channels, and several minor
watercourses, which traverse a flat country, lightly timbered by a
species of flooded box; this flat is confined on either side by low
sand-stone ridges, thickly covered with an acacia scrub. In latitude 24
degrees 50 minutes we had some difficulty in finding a sufficiency for
our own consumption, but after searching the numerous channels, the deep
(though dry) lagoons and lakes formed there by the river, we at length
encamped at a small water-hole in latitude 24 degrees 52 minutes 55
seconds and longitude 144 degrees 11 minutes 26 seconds.
"Being aware that the principal view of the Government in sending me to
trace the Victoria, was the discovery of a practical route to the Gulf of
Carpentaria, I then began to fear that I should be unable, with my small
stock of provisions, to accomplish the two objects of my Expedition. My
instructions confined me to the river, which had now preserved almost
without deviation a south-south-west course for nearly a hundred miles;
the only method which occurred to me, by the adoption of which I might
still hope to perform all that was desired, was to trace the river with
two men as far as latitude 26 degrees, which the maintenance of its
general course would have enabled me to do in two days, and then to
hasten back to my party, to conduct them to the extreme northern point
attained by the Victoria, and endeavour to prolong the direct route
carried that far, from Sydney towards the Gulf of Carpentaria, by Sir
Thomas Mitchell.
"With this intention I left the camp on the 20th of August, and at twelve
miles found several channels united, forming a fine reach, below which
the river takes a turn to the west-south-west, receiving the waters of
rather a large creek from the eastward, in latitude 25 degrees 3 minutes
0 seconds. In latitude 25 degrees 7 minutes, the river having again
inclined to the southward, impinges upon the point of a low range on its
left, by the influence of which it is turned in one well watered channel
to the west and west by north, for nearly thirty miles; in that course
the reaches are nearly connected, varying in breadth from 80 to 120
yards; firm plains of a poor white soil extend on either side of the
river; they were rather bare of pasture, but they are evidently in some
seasons less deficient of grass. In latitude 25 degrees 9 minutes 30
seconds, and longitude about 143 degrees 16 minutes, a considerable river
joins the Victoria from the north-east, which I would submit may be named
the "Thomson," in honour of E. Deas Thomson, Esquire, the Honourable the
Colonial Secretary. It was on one of the five reaches in the westerly
course of the Victoria that I passed the second night; the river there
measured 120 yards across, and seemed to have a great depth; the rocks
and small islets which here and there occurred in its channel giving it
the semblance of a lasting and most important river; this unexpected
change, however, both in its appearance and course, caused me to return
immediately to my camp for the purpose of conducting my party down such a
river whithersoever it should flow.
"On the 25th August, we resumed our journey down that portion of the
Victoria above described, and made the river mentioned from north-east
three miles above its junction; following it down we found an unbroken
sheet of water in its channel, averaging fifty yards in breadth; we
forded it at the junction, and continued to move down the Victoria,
keeping all the channels, into which it had again divided, on my left. At
about one mile the river there turns to the south-south-west and south,
spreading over a depressed and barren waste, void of trees or vegetation
of any kind, its level surface being only broken by small doones of red
sand, resembling islands upon the dry bed of an inland sea, which, I am
convinced, at no distant period did exist there.
"On the 1st September, we encamped upon a long, though narrow, reach in
the most western channel, at which point a low sandstone ridge, strewed
with boulders, and covered with an acacia scrub, closes upon the river.
This position is important, as a small supply of grass will, I think, in
most seasons, be found on the bank of the river, when not a blade,
perhaps, may be seen within many miles above or below: my camp, which I
marked K/IV was in latitude 25 degrees 24 minutes 22 seconds, longitude
142 degrees 51 minutes. Beyond camp IV the ridge recedes, and the soil
becomes more broken and crumbling; our horses struggled with difficulty
over this ground to my camp, at a small water-hole, in latitude 25
degrees 43 minutes 44 seconds, where I found it necessary to lighten some
of their loads by having buried 400 lbs. flour, and 70 lbs. sugar, still
retaining a sufficient supply to carry us to Captain Sturt's farthest, on
Cooper's Creek, to the eastward, (to which point I was convinced this
river would lead me) and from thence back to the settled districts of New
South Wales; which was all I could then hope to accomplish. At about
sixteen miles further, the ground becoming worse, so that our horses were
continually falling into the fissures up to their hocks, I was compelled
to leave 270 lbs. more of flour and sugar at my camp of the 4th
September, in latitude 25 degrees 51 minutes, at another small
water-hole, found in the bed of a very dry and insignificant channel;
here a barren sandstone range again impedes the river in its southerly
course, and throws it off to the westward, thus causing many of its
channels to unite and form a reach of water in latitude 25 degrees 54
minutes; this, the lowest reach we attained, I did not discover until my
return, having found a sufficient supply in a channel more to the
westward. In latitude 25 degrees 55 minutes, and longitude, by account,
142 degrees 23 minutes, the river, having rounded the point of the range
which obstructs it, resumes its southerly course, spreading in countless
channels over a surface bearing flood marks six and ten feet above its
present level; this vast expanse is only bounded to the eastward by the
barren range alluded to, which, ending abruptly, runs parallel with the
river at a distance varying from four to seven miles. On the 7th
September, I encamped upon a small water-hole in 26 degrees 0 minutes 13
seconds, in the midst of a desert not producing a morsel of vegetation;
yet so long as we could find water, transient as it was, I continued to
push on with the hope of reaching, sooner or later, some grassy spot,
whereon by a halt I might refresh the horses; however, that hope was
destroyed at the close of the next day, for although I had commenced an
early search for water when travelling to the southward, with numerous
channels on either side of me, I was compelled at length to encamp in
latitude 26 degrees 13 minutes 9 seconds, and longitude, by account, 142
degrees 20 minutes, on the bank of a deep channel, without either water
or food for our wearied horses. The following morning, taking one man and
Harry with me, we made a close search down the most promising
watercourses and lagoons, but upon riding down even the deepest of them,
we invariably found them break off into several insignificant channels,
which again subdivided, and in a short distance dissipated the waters,
derived from what had appeared the dry bed of a large river, on the
absorbing plain; returning in disappointment to the camp, I sent my
lightest man and Harry on other horses to look into the channels still
unexamined, but they also returned unsuccessful. We had seen late fires
of the natives at which they had passed the night without water, and
tracked them on their path from lagoon to lagoon in search of it; we also
found that they had encamped on some of the deepest channels in
succession, quitting each as it had become dry, having previously made
holes to drain off the last moisture. My horses were by this time
literally starving, and all we could give them was the rotten straw and
weeds which had covered some deserted huts of the natives. Seeing, then,
that it would be the certain loss of many, and consequently an
unjustifiable risk of my party to attempt to push farther into a country
where the aborigines themselves were at a loss to find water, I felt it
my imperative duty to at once abandon it. I would here beg to remark,
that although unsuccessful in my attempt to follow it that far, from the
appearance of the country, and long-continued direction of the river's
course, I think there can exist but little doubt that the "Victoria" is
identical with Cooper's Creek, of Captain Sturt; that creek was abandoned
by its discoverer in latitude 27 degrees 46 minutes, longitude 141
degrees 52 minutes, coming from the north-east, and as the natives
informed him, "in many small channels forming a large one;" the lowest
camp of mine on the Victoria was in latitude 26 degrees 13 minutes 9
seconds, longitude 142 degrees 20 minutes; the river in several channels
trending due south, and the lowest point of the range which bounds that
flat country to the eastward, bearing south 25 degrees east; Captain
Sturt also states that the ground near the creek was so blistered and
light that it was unfit to ride on; but that before he turned, he had
satisfied himself that there was no apparent sign of water to the
eastward.
"Having marked a tree EK/1847, we commenced our return journey along the
track at two p.m. of the 9th of September; at eight miles I allowed one
of the horses to be shot; for being an old invalid, and unable to travel
further, he must have starved if left alive. At thirteen miles we reached
the water. Some while after dark the following day we made our next camp;
but it was with much difficulty that my private horse and two or three
others were brought to water, one being almost carried by three men the
latter part of the day. Upon discovering the reach, in latitude 25
degrees 54 minutes, near the range, and finding a little grass in the
channel about the water, I gave the horses two days' rest. My camp on the
reach is marked K/III.; it is in latitude 25 degrees 55 minutes 37
seconds, longitude, by account, 142 degrees 24 minutes; the variation of
the compass 8 degrees east; water boiled at 214 degrees, the temperature
of the air being 64 degrees. On the 14th September we proceeded on our
journey, and reached the firm plains beyond the desert. On the 22nd,
having halted a day, we again moved on, and arrived within five miles of
the carts; on the 7th October, leaving my party on the south channel, I
rode to the spot, and found them still safe, although a native had been
examining the ground that very morning. Lest he should have gone to
collect others to assist him in his researches, I brought my party
forward the same evening, had the carts dug out during the night, and at
sunrise proceeded to our position of the 4th August on the south
channel."
From the above account, which is equally clear and distinct, it would
appear, that, just below where the river Alice joins the Victoria, the
latter river had already commenced its south-west course, and that the
last thirty miles down which the Surveyor-General traced this river was a
part of the general south-west course, which it afterwards maintained to
the termination of Mr. Kennedy's route, and consequently the latter
traveller never had an opportunity of approaching so near the Gulf of
Carpentaria as the Surveyor-General had done. Here its channel separates
into three principal branches, at half-a-mile apart, and, notwithstanding
the promise it had given down to the point, at which he had now arrived,
(latitude 24 degrees 52 minutes, and longitude 144 degrees 11 minutes,)
having then travelled nearly 100 miles along its banks, Mr. Kennedy had
great difficulty in finding water. In consequence indeed, of the
unfavourable changes that had taken place in the river, he determined on
leaving the party stationary, and proceeding down it with two men to the
26th parallel, whence, if he found that it still held to the south, he
proposed returning with the intention of trying to find a practicable
route to the Gulf of Carpentaria, in compliance with his instructions,
and under an impression, I presume, that the fate of the Victoria would
then have been fully determined.
In latitude 25 degrees 3 minutes, the river having changed its course to
the W. S. W. was joined by a large creek from the "EASTWARD." In latitude
25 degrees 7 minutes it was turned by some low sandstone ranges on its
left, and trended for thirty miles to the west, and even to the northward
of that point, having almost connected ponds of water for that distance,
varying in breadth, from 80 to 120 yards, and being bounded on either
side by firm plains of white soil. About 25 degrees 9 minutes and 143
degrees 16 minutes the river was joined by a large tributary stream from
the NORTH-EAST, to which Mr. Kennedy gave the name of the "Thomson," and
encouraged by the favourable changes which had now taken place, he
returned for his party with the determination of following so fine a
river to the last.
We shall now see how far his anticipations were confirmed, and how far
his further investigation of the Victoria river, and his account of the
country through which it flows, accords with the description I have given
of the dreary region into which I penetrated.
On the 26th of September, Mr. Kennedy having brought down his party,
resumed his journey, and crossing the Victoria, struck the N. E.
tributary about three miles above its junction with the main stream, and
fording at that point, kept on the proper right bank of the Victoria.
"At about a mile," says Mr. Kennedy, "it (the Victoria) there turns to
the S.S.W. and south, spreading over a depressed and barren waste, void
of trees or vegetation of any kind, its level surface being only broken
by small doones of red sand, like islands upon the dry bed of an inland
sea, which I am convinced at no distant period did exist there."
There cannot, I think, be any reasonable doubt, but that Mr. Kennedy had
here reached the edge of the great central desert.
Both the river he was tracing, and the country were precisely similar in
character to Cooper's Creek, and the country I had so long been wandering
over. The former at one point having a fine deep channel, at another
split into numberless small branches, and then spreading over some
extensive level without the vestige of a water-course upon it. The
country monotonous and sterile, its level only broken by low sandstone
hills, or doones of sand, the whole bearing in its general appearance the
stamp of a submarine origin.
Mr. Kennedy's last camp on the Victoria was in lat. 26 degrees 13 minutes
9 seconds S. and in long. 142 degrees 20 minutes E.; the most eastern
point of Cooper's Creek gained by me was in lat. 27 degrees 46 minutes S.
and long. 141 degrees 51 minutes E. This longitude, however, was by
account, and I may have thrown it some few miles to the eastward; in like
manner Mr. Kennedy's longitude being also by account, I believe he may
have placed his camp a little to the west of its true position; but, as
the two points are now laid down, there is a distance of 98 geographical
miles between them, on a bearing of 13 degrees to the east of north.
Admitting the identity of the Victoria with Cooper's Creek, of which I do
not think there is the slightest doubt, the course of the former in order
to join the latter would be south, 13 degrees W. the very course Mr.
Kennedy states it had apparently taken up when he left it. "The lowest
camp on the Victoria," he says, "was in lat. 26 degrees 13 minutes 9
seconds, and in long. 142 degrees 20 minutes, the river in several
channels trending due south." If such is the case I must have
misunderstood the signs of the natives, and been mistaken in my
supposition that the vast basin into which I traced it, was the basin of
Cooper's Creek, but I had so frequently remarked the rapid and almost
instantaneous formation of such features in similar localities, that, I
confess, I did not doubt the meaning the natives intended to convey.
There are several facts illustrative of the structure and LAY, if I may
use the expression, of the interior unfolded to us, in consequence of the
farther knowledge Mr. Kennedy's exploration has given of that part
through which the Victoria flows, which strike myself, who have so deep
an interest in the subject, when they might, perhaps, escape the general
reader; I have therefore thought it right to advert to them for a moment.
He will not, however, have failed to observe, in the perusal of Mr.
Kennedy's Report, that excepting where small sandstone ranges turned it
to the westward, the tendency of the Victoria was to the SOUTH. The same
fact struck me in reference to the Murray river, as I proceeded down it
in 1830. I could not fail to observe its efforts to run away in a
southerly direction when not impeded by cliffs or sand-hills. This would
seem to indicate, that the dip of the continent is more directly to the
south than to the west. There is a line of rocky hills, that turn
Cooper's Creek to the latter point immediately to the south-west of the
grassy plains on which I supposed it took its rise. From that point its
general direction is to the westward for about eighty miles, when it
splits into two branches, the one flowing to the north-west, and
terminating in the extensive grassy plains described at page 39, Vol. II.
of the present work, the other passing to the westward and laying all the
country under water during the rainy season, which Mr. Brown and I
traversed on our journey to the north-west; the several creeks we
discovered on that occasion, being nothing more than ramifications of
Cooper's Creek, which thus, like all the other interior rivers of
Australia, expends itself by overflowing extensive levels; but instead of
forming marshes like the Lachlan, the Macquarie, and the Murrumbidgee,
terminates in large grassy plains, which are as wheat-fields to the
natives, since the grass-seed they collect from them appears to
constitute their principal food.
I have observed in the beginning of this work, that the impression on my
mind, before I commenced my recent expedition, was, that a great current
had passed southwards through the Gulf of Carpentaria which had been
split in two by some intervening obstacle, that one branch of this
current had taken the line of the Darling, the other having passed to the
westward. Now, it would appear, that the sources of the Victoria are in
long. 146 degrees 46 minutes, and we are aware, that the course of that
river is to the W.S.W. as far as the 139th meridian; unless, therefore,
there is a low and depressed country between the sources of the Victoria,
and the coast ranges traversed by Dr. Leichhardt, through which the
southerly current could have passed, my hypothesis, as regards it, is
evidently wrong; and such, on an inspection of Sir Thomas Mitchell's map,
appears to be the case, as he has marked a line of hills, connecting the
basins of the Victoria with the higher ranges traversed by Doctor
Leichhardt, nearer the coast. My object being to elicit truth, I have
deemed it necessary to call the attention of the reader to this point,
because it would appear to argue against the general conclusions I have
drawn, since, if there is no apparent outlet, there could not have been
any southerly current as I have supposed; whereas, if the features of the
country could have justified such a conclusion, the general ones I have
formed would have been very considerably strengthened.
Mr. Kennedy's survey of the Victoria establishes the fact, that there is
not a single stream or water-course falling into the main drainage of the
continent, from the northward or westward, between the 24th and 34th
parallels of latitude, a distance of more than 700 geographical miles--a
fact which strongly proves the depressed nature of the north-west
interior, and would appear to confirm the opinion already expressed, that
the Stony Desert is the great channel into which such rivers as have a
sufficiently prolonged course, are ultimately led, and towards which the
northerly, and a great portion of the easterly drainage tends. How that
singular feature may terminate, whether in an in land sea, or as an arid
wilderness, stretching to the Great Australian Bight, it is impossible to
say. From the general tendency of the rivers to fall to the south, it may
be that the Stony Desert, as Mr. Arrowsmith supposes, has some connexion
with Lake Torrens, but I think, for reasons already stated, that it
passes far to the westward.
It may not be generally known, that Dr. Leichhardt is at this moment
endeavouring to accomplish an undertaking, in which, if he should prove
successful, he will stand the first of Australian explorers. It is to
traverse the continent from east to west, nor will he be able to do this
under a distance of more than 5000 miles in a direct line. He had already
started on this gigantic journey, but was obliged to return, as his party
contracted the ague, and he lost all his animals; but undaunted by these
reverses, he left Moreton Bay in December last, and has not since been
heard of. One really cannot but admire such a spirit of enterprise and
self-devotion, or be too earnest in our wishes for his prosperity. Dr.
Leichhardt intends keeping on the outskirts of the Desert all the way
round to Swan River, and the difficulties he may have to encounter as
well as the distance he may have to travel, will greatly depend on its
extent. We can hardly hope for intelligence of this dauntless explorer
for two years; but if such a period should elapse without any
intelligence of him, I trust there will not those be wanting to volunteer
their services in the hope of rendering him assistance. Our best feelings
have been raised to save the Wanderer at the Pole--should they not also
be raised to carry relief to the Wanderer of the Desert? The present
exploration of Dr. Leichhardt, if successful, will put an end to every
theory, and complete the discovery of the internal features of the
Australian continent, and when we look at the great blank in the map of
that vast territory, we cannot but admit the service that intrepid
traveller is doing to the cause of Geography and Natural History, by the
undertaking in which he is at present engaged. It is doubtful to me,
however, whether his investigations and labours will greatly extend the
pastoral interests of the Australian colonies, for I am disposed to think
that the climate of the region through which he will pass, is too warm
for the successful growth of wool. As I stated in the body of my work,
the fleece on the sheep we took into the interior, ceased to grow at the
Depot in lat. 29 degrees 40 minutes, as did our own hair and nails; but
local circumstances may account for this effect upon the animal system,
although it seems to me that the great dryness of the Australian
atmosphere, where the heat is also excessive, as it must be in the
interior and juxta-tropical parts of it, would prevent the growth of
wool, by drying up the natural moisture of the skin. Nevertheless, if Dr.
Leichhardt should discover mountains of any height or extent, their
elevated plateaux, like that of the Darling Downs, which is one of the
finest pastoral districts of New South Wales, and is in lat. 27 1/2
degrees, would not be liable to the same objections; for I believe no
better wool is produced than in that district, and that only there, and
in Port Phillip, has the sheep farmer been able to clear his expenses
this year. Were it not, therefore, for the almost boundless and still
unoccupied tracts of land within the territory of New South Wales, we
might look with greater anxiety, as regards the pastoral interests of
Australia, to the result of Dr. Leichhardt's labours. At present,
however, there seems to be no limit to the extent either of grazing or of
agricultural land in New South Wales. The only thing to be regretted is,
that the want of an industrious population, keeps it in a state of
nature, and that the thousands who are here obtaining but a precarious
subsistence, should not evince a more earnest desire to go to a country
where most assuredly their condition would be changed for the better.
APPENDIX.
ANIMALS.
But few mammalia inhabit Central Australia. The nature of the country
indeed is such, that we could hardly expect to find any remarkable
variety. The greater part is only tenable after or during heavy rains,
when the hollows in the flats between the sandy ridges contain water. On
such occasions the natives move about the country, and subsist almost
exclusively on the Hapalotis Mitchellii, and an animal they call the
Talpero, a species of Perameles, which is spread over a great extent of
country, being common in the sand hills on the banks of the Darling, to
the S.E. of the Barrier Range, as well as to the sandy ridges in the N.W.
interior, although none were met with to the north of the Stony Desert.
The Hapaloti feed on tender shoots of plants, and must live for many
months together without water, the situation in which we found them
precluding the possibility of their obtaining any for protracted
intervals. They make burrows of great extent, from which the natives
smoke them, and they sometimes procure as many as twelve or eighteen from
one burrow. This animal is grey, the fur is exceedingly soft; although
the animal is in some measure common, I could not procure any skins from
the natives.
Very few kangaroos were seen, none indeed beyond the parallel of 28
degrees. All that were seen were of the common kind, none of the minor
description apparently inhabiting the interior, if I except some Rock
Wallabi, noticed on the Barrier Range. The last beautiful little animal
always escaped us in consequence of its extreme agility and watchfulness.
The Native Dog was not seen beyond lat. 28 degrees. Nor was it found in a
wild state beyond Fort Grey, to the best of my recollection; these
miserable and melancholy animals would come to water where we were,
unconscious of our presence, and would gain the very bank of the creek
before they discovered us, rousing us by as melancholy a howl as jackal
ever made; their emaciated bodies standing between us and the moon, were
the most wretched objects of the brute creation.
The first Choeropus castanotus seen, was on the banks of the Darling, in
the possession of the natives, but it was too much injured to be valuable
as a specimen. A second was also killed there, but torn to pieces by the
dogs. None were afterwards seen until after the Barrier Range had been
crossed, when about lat. 27 degrees several were captured alive, as
detailed under the head Dipus. In like manner the first nest of the
"Building Rats" (Mus conditor, Gould) was found in the brushes on the
Darling, where they were numerous. The last nest of these animals was on
the bank of the muddy lagoon to the north of the Pine Forest, in which
the party were so embarrassed, at the end of 1844.
The first Hapalotis, seen was in lat. 29 1/2 degrees on some plains to
the eastward of the Depot, where it was nearly captured by Mr. Browne. A
second was taken by Mr. Stewart, at the tents, but in neither places were
they found inhabiting the same kind of country as that in which they were
subsequently found in such vast numbers. Mr. Gould thinks there were two
species amongst those brought home, and it may be that these two were
different from those inhabiting the sand hills: they only differed,
however, in a darker shade in the fur, and a reddish mark on the back of
the ears.
There were both rats and mice in the N.W. interior, numbers of which took
up their abode in our underground room at the Depot, but there was no
apparent difference between them and the ordinary rat or mouse.
There was only one Opossum killed, or indeed seen to the westward of the
Barrier Range, nor do they appear to inhabit the interior in any numbers.
Since there were no signs of the trees having been ascended by the
natives in search of them.
* * * * *
1. CANIS FAMILIARIS, var. AUSTRALASIAE.--Dingo.
This animal was not very numerous in the interior, more especially
towards the centre, for it was not noticed to the north of the Stony
Desert. Wherever seen it was in the most miserable condition, and it is
difficult to say on what they lived. This animal was of all colours. It
appears to me that if these dogs are indigenous, nature has departed from
her usual laws as regards wild beasts, in giving them such a variety of
colours.
2. MACROPUS MAJOR.--Great Kangaroo.
This animal did not extend beyond 28 degrees. Six or seven were there
seen on a small stony range, but very few were observed to the westward
of the Barrier Range.
3. MACROPUS LANIGER.--Red Kangaroo.
This fine animal did not extend beyond the neighbourhood and plains of
the Murray, where it is not numerous. Several of the smaller kangaroos
were taken during the progress of the Expedition up the Murray and
Darling rivers; but as they have been frequently described, it is not
thought necessary to insert them in this list.
4. CHOEROPUS CASTANOTUS, GRAY.
This animal was first killed on the Darling, but the specimen was
destroyed by the dogs. Two or three were afterwards taken alive in
latitude 26 1/2 degrees. They were found lying out in tufts of grass, and
when roused betook themselves after a short run, to some hollow logs
where they were easily cut out. The Choeroups is a beautiful animal,
about eight inches long in the body, with a tail of considerable length,
having a tuft at the end. The fur is a silvery grey, and very soft. When
confined in a box they ate sparingly of grass and young leaves, but
preferred meat and the offal of birds shot for them. The Choeropus is
insectivorous, and I was therefore not surprised at their taking to
animal food, which, however, not agreeing with them, they died one after
the other. They squat like rabbits, laying their broad ears along their
backs in the same kind of way.
5. HAPALOTIS MITCHELLII.
This beautiful little animal was, as I have observed in the introduction
to this notice, first seen in the vicinity of the Depot. It was
subsequently found in vast numbers, inhabiting the sandy ridges from Fort
Grey to Lake Torrens. Those immense banks of sand were in truth marked
over with their footprints as if an army of mice or rats had been running
over them. They are not much larger than a mouse, have a beautiful full
black eye, long ears, and tail feathered towards the end. The colour of
the fur is a light red, in rising they hop on their hind legs, and when
tired go on all four, holding their tail perfectly horizontal. They breed
in the flats on little mounds, burrowing inwards from the edge; various
passages tending like the radii of a wheel to a common centre, to which a
hole is made from the top of the mound, so that there is a communication
from it to all the passages.
They are taken by the natives in hundreds, who avail themselves of a fall
of rain to rove through the sandy ridges to hunt these little animals and
the talpero, Perameles, as long as there shall be surface water. We had
five of these little animals in a box, that thrived beautifully on oats,
and I should have succeeded in getting them to Adelaide if it had not
been for the carelessness of one of the men in fastening a tarpauline
down over them one dreadful day, by which means they were smothered.
6. MUS CONDITOR, GOULD.--The Building Rat.
Inhabits the brushes in the Darling, in which it builds a nest of small
sticks, varying in length from eight inches to three, and in thickness,
from that of a quill to that of the thumb. The fabric is so firm and
compact as almost to defy destruction except by fire. The animals live in
communities, and have passages leading into apartments in the centre of
the mound or pyramid, which might consist of three or four wheelbarrows
full of the sticks, are about four feet in diameter, and three feet high.
The animal itself is like an ordinary rat, only that it has longer ears
and its hind feet are disproportioned to the fore feet. It was not found
beyond latitude 30 degrees. See page 120, Vol. I.
7. ACROBATES PYGMAEA.--Flying Opossum Mouse.
This beautiful and delicate little animal was killed in a Box tree,
whence it came out of a hole, and ran with several others along a branch,
retreating again with great swiftness. It was so small that if the moon
had not been very bright it could not have been seen. It is somewhat less
than a mouse in size and has a tail like an emu's feather, its skin being
of a dark brown.
8. LAGORCHESTES FASCIATUS (L. ALBIPILIS, GOULD?).--Fasciated Kangaroo.
One only of this animal was seen on the plains of the interior. It is
peculiar in its habits, in that it lies in open ground and springs from
its form like a hare, running with extreme velocity, and doubling short
round upon its pursuers to avoid them. The Lagorchestes is very common on
the plains to the north of Gawler Town, but is so swift as generally to
elude the dogs. It is marsupial, and about the size of a rabbit, but is
greatly disproportioned, as all the Kangaroo tribe are, as regards the
hind and fore quarters. In colour this animal is a silvery grey, crossed
with dark coloured bars on the back.
9. PHALANGISTA VULPINA.--The Opossum.
Like the preceding, only one of these animals was seen or shot during the
Expedition; it was in one of the gum-trees, taking its silent and lonely
ramble amongst its branches, when the quick eye of Tampawang, my native
boy, saw him. It does not appear generally to inhabit the N.W. interior.
The present was a very large specimen, with a beautifully soft skin, and
as it was the only one noticed during a residence of nearly six months at
the same place, it was in all probability a stray animal.
10. VESPERTILIO.--Little black Bat.
This diminutive little animal flew into my tent at the Depot, attracted
by the light. It is not common in that locality, or any other that we
noticed. It was of a deep black in colour and had smaller ears than
usual.
* * * * * * *
BIRDS.
I have observed that a principal reason I had for supposing that there
was either an inland sea, a desert country, or both in the interior, was
from observations I had made during several expeditions, and in South
Australia, of the migration of certain of the feathered tribes to the
same point--that is to say, that in lat. 30 and in long. 144, I observed
them passing to the N.W. and in lat. 35, long. 138, to the north. Seeing,
on prolonging these two lines, that they would pass over a great portion
of the interior before they met, about a degree beyond the tropic, I
concluded that the nature of the intervening country was not such as they
could inhabit, and that the first available land would be where the two
lines thus met. It so happened that at the Depot, in lat. 29 1/2 and in
long. 142, I was in the direct line of migration to the N.W., and that
during our stay at that lonely post, we witnessed the migration of
various birds to that quarter, though not of all. This was more
particularly the case with the water-birds, as ducks, bitterns, pelicans,
cormorants, and swans,--we saw few of the latter, but generally heard
them at night passing over our heads from N.W. to S.E. or vice versu; but
we never afterwards found any waters which we could suppose those birds
could frequent in the distant interior. On Strzelecki's Creek a small
tern was shot, and on Cooper's Creek several seagulls were seen, but
beyond these we had no reason to anticipate the existence of inland water
from any thing we noticed as to the feathered races. On our first arrival
at the Depot there was a bittern, Ardetta flavicollis, that frequented
the creek in considerable numbers. This bird was black and white, with a
speckled breast and neck. Every evening at dusk they would fly, making a
hoarse noise, to the water at the bottom of the Red Hole Creek, and
return in the morning, but as winter advanced they left us, and went to
the N.W.
About February and the beginning of March, the Epthianura tricolor and E.
aurifrons, and some of the Parrot tribe, collected in thousands on the
creeks, preparatory to migrating to the same point to which the aquatic
birds had gone. It was their wont to fly up and down the creeks, uttering
loud cries, and collecting in vast numbers, but suddenly they would
disappear, and leave the places which had rung with their wild notes as
silent as the desert. The Euphema elegans then passed us, with several
other kinds of birds, but some of them remained, as did also the Euphema
Bourkii, which the reader will find more particularly noticed under its
proper head.
The range of the Speckled Dove (Geopelia cuneata), so common on the
Darling, extended to the Depot, and two remained with us during the
winter, and roosted two or three times on the tent ropes over my fire.
There were always an immense number of Raptores following the line of
migration, and living on the smaller birds; nor was any thing more
remarkable than the terror they caused amongst them. The poor things
would hardly descend to water, and several of the Euphema came to the
creek in the dark, when we could not see to fire at them, and several
killed themselves by flying against our tent ropes.
The range of the Rose Cockatoo was right across the continent as far as
we went--as well as that of the Crested Parroquet, which was, as I have
observed, the last bird we saw, just before Mr. Browne and I turned
homewards from our first going to the N.W. The Cacatua sanguinea, Gould,
succeeded the Sulphur Crested Cockatoo to the westward of the Barrier
Range, and was in flocks of thousands on Evelyn's Plains, near the Depot,
but I am not certain as to the point to which it migrated. It is
remarkable, however, that the Sulphur Crested Cockatoo, though numerous
along the whole line of the Darling, was never seen near the Depot, or to
the westward of the Barrier Range.
The Amadina Lathami, to which we always looked as the harbinger of good,
was met with in every part of the interior--where there was water--and
frequently at such vast distances from it, when migrating, I suppose,
that vast numbers must have perished.
I have noticed the Pigeons in their proper place, and stated my opinion
as to the point to which they went on leaving us; and I would refer my
reader to my remarks on that head: he will find their habits and
localities fully described there.
We fell in with the water-hen, Tribonyx, on one of the creeks on our
journey to Lake Torrens, and again on Strzelecki's Creek, apparently
migrating to the south. These birds ran along the banks likefowls, as
they did in the located districts of Adelaide, as described by Mr. Gould,
and that too in great numbers, and when disturbed took wing to the south.
In like manner we observed the Eudromias Australis, migrating southwards
in May. From these facts it would appear that the great line taken by the
feathered tribes in migrating from the southern or southeastern parts of
the province is in a direction between the east and south points of the
compass, and I cannot still help thinking that about a degree to the
north of the Tropic, and about the meridian of 138, a more fertile
country than any hitherto discovered will be found.
It may be necessary for me to observe that on our advance to Fort Grey,
in August, we observed numerous Caloderae, and other smaller birds in the
brushes, apparently on the move whilst there was water for them, that had
been left by the then recent rains. We did not again see these birds
until we had passed the Stony Desert and entered the box-tree forest to
the north of it, in which was the creek with the huge native well. There
a variety of birds had congregated--the Rose Cockatoo, the piping Magpie,
the Calodera, various parrots and parroquets, bronze-wing Pigeons, and
numerous small birds.
At Cawndilla, Mr. Poole shot a Euphema splendida, Gould. It was in
company with several others; but this bird was not again seen until we
passed the 26th parallel, in September, when it was met by Mr. Browne and
myself coming from the north. The following is a list of the birds seen
during the expedition.
* * * * *
1. AQUILA FUCOSA, CUVIER.--The Wedge-tailed Eagle.
Two of these birds frequented the Depot Glen, in 29 degrees 40 minutes 0
seconds and in longitude 142 degrees, one of which was secured. They
generally rested on a high pointed rock, whence their glance extended
over the whole country, and it was only by accident that the above
specimen was killed.
This powerful bird is common both on the Murray and the Darling, and is
widely, perhaps universally distributed over the Australian continent,
although the two birds in the Glen were the only ones seen in the
interior to the N.W. of the Barrier, or Stanley's Range.
2. HALIASTUR SPHENURUS.--The Whistling Eagle.
This species of Eagle is considerably smaller than the first and has much
lighter plumage. It is a dull and stupid bird, and is easily approached.
It was shot at the Depot, in the month of April, 1845. Several others
were seen during our stay there.
3. FALCO HYPOLEUCUS, GOULD.--The Grey Falcon.
This beautiful bird was shot at the Depot, at which place, during our
long stay, Mr. Piesse, my storekeeper, was very successful with my gun. A
pair, male and female, were observed by him one Sunday in May, whilst the
men were at prayers, hovering very high in the air, soon after which he
succeeded in killing both. They came down from a great height and pitched
in the trees on the banks of the creek, and on Mr. Piesse firing at and
killing one the other flew away; but returning to look for its lost
companion, shared its fate. Nothing could exceed the delicate beauty of
these birds when first procured. Their large, full eyes, the vivid yellow
of the ceres and legs, together with their slate-coloured plumage, every
feather lightly marked at the end, was quite dazzling; but all soon faded
from the living brightness they had at first. The two specimens were the
only ones seen during an interval of seventeen months that the party was
in the interior, and these, it appears probable to me, were on the
flight, and were attracted down to us.
4. FALCO MELANOGENYS, GOULD.--The Black-cheeked Falcon.
A single specimen of this bird was shot at the Depot, when just stooping
at a duck on some water in the glen. The strength of limb, and muscle of
this fine species of falcon were extremely remarkable, and seemed to
indicate that he despised weaker or smaller prey than that at which he
was flying when shot. He had been seen several times before he was
killed. His flight was rapid and resistless, and his stoop was always
sure.
This must be a scarce bird, as the specimen was the only one seen.
5. FALCO SUBNIGER, G. R. GRAY.--The Black Falcon.
The colour of this fine bird is a sooty black, but his shape is
beautiful, and his flight, as his sharp pointed wings indicate, rapid. He
was shot in some brushes behind the Depot, where he had been spreading
alarm amongst a flight of parroquets, (Euphema Bourkii).
This must also be a scarce bird, as he was the only one seen.
6. FALCO FRONTATUS.--The White-fronted Falcon.
This is both a smaller and a more common bird; its range being very wide.
This species followed the line of migration, and made sad havoc among the
parroquets and smaller birds. He was generally hid in the trees, and
would descend like an arrow when they came to water, frequently carrying
off two of the little Amadina castanotis, a favourite bird of ours, one
in each talon.
7. TINNUNCULUS CENCHROIDES.--Nankeen Kestril.
Like the last, small and swift of wing, following also the line of
migration.
This bird is generally distributed over the continent and is known by the
nankeen colour of his back.
8. ASTUR APPROXIMANS, VIG. AND HORSF. Australian Goshawk.
This bird was occasionally seen during the journey.
9. MILVUS AFFINIS, GOULD.--Allied Kite.
This bird is common over the whole continent of Australia. They are sure
to be in numbers at the camps of the natives, which they frequent to pick
up what may be left when they go away. They are sure also to follow any
party in the bush for the same purpose. About fifty of these birds
remained at the Depot, with about as many crows, when all the other birds
had deserted us; and afforded great amusement to the men, who used to
throw up pieces of meat for them to catch in falling. But although so
tame that they would come round the tents on hearing a whistle, they
would not eat any thing in captivity, and would have died if they had not
been set at liberty again. It was this bird which descended upon Mr.
Browne and myself in such numbers from the upper regions of the air, as
we were riding on some extensive plains near the Depot in the heat of
summer. There can be no doubt but that in the most elevated positions
where they are far out of the range of human sight, they mark what is
passing on the plains below them. This bird is figured, see page 269,
Vol. 1.
10. ELANUS SCRIPTUS, GOULD.--The Letter-winged Kite.
This beautiful bird was first seen on a creek to the eastward of the
Barrier or Stanley's Range, and before the party had crossed that chain
of hills. One was shot on the advance of the Expedition from the Darling
in the early part of November 1844, in latitude 32 degrees, and on the
return of the party from the interior, in December 1845, several
specimens were seen as low as Cawndilla, and ranging along the banks of
the Darling. In the interval they were seen in flocks of from thirty to
forty, either soaring in the air or congregated together in trees. They
were never seen to stoop at any thing, nor could we detect on what they
fed, but I am led to believe that it was mice. They are fond of hovering
in the air, and in such a position look beautiful, the black bar across
the wing underneath them appearing like a W, and contrasting strongly
with the otherwise delicate plumage of the bird. They left us for a time
whilst we remained at the Depot, and the first that were afterwards seen
by us were on the return of Mr. Browne and myself from our first northern
journey.
These birds are widely distributed over that part of the interior
traversed by the Expedition. Like Elanus notatus, it has a bright full
eye, the iris inclined to a light pink. Its shoulders are black, and its
back like a sea-gull, slate-coloured.
11. CIRCUS JARDINII, GOULD.--Jardine's Harrier.
This bird, with its spotted plumage, was not common. A specimen was shot
on the banks of the Darling, between Williorara and the junction with the
Murray. None of the same bird were seen in the N.W. interior, or to the
westward of the Barrier Range.
12. STRIX PERSONATA, VIG.--Masked Barn Owl.
This fine night bird was very rare in the interior, and only one specimen
was procured. Its plumage is characterised by that softness so peculiar
to the genus to which it belongs, and in consequence of which its flight
is so silent and stealthy that, like the foot-fall of the cat, it is
unheard.
This owl was shot on the Darling, after having been startled out of a
tree.
13. STRIX DELICATULUS, GOULD.--Delicate Owl.
Nearly allied to the Strix flammea, or Barn Owl of England. This bird,
widely spread over the continent of Australia, inhabits the interior in
great numbers, wherever there are trees large enough for it to build in.
Their young were just fledged when the Expedition descended into the
western interior, and at sunset came out on the branches of the
gum-trees, where they sat for several hours to be fed, making a most
discordant noise every time the old birds came with a fresh supply of
food, which was about every quarter of an hour. It was frequently
impossible to sleep from the constant screeching of the young owls. Their
food is principally mice, bats, and large moths.
14. ATHENE BOOBOOK.--Boobook Owl.
So called from its whoop resembling that sound. Like others of its genus
it comes from its hiding place at sunset, and its note in the distance is
exactly like that of the cuckoo, but the sound changes as you approach
it. This bird has a dark brown plumage, spotted white, and differs in
many respects from the genus Strix, although very closely allied to it.
15. AEGOTHELES NOVAE-HOLLANDIAE, VIG. AND HORSF.--Owlet night Jar.
This small bird, although a night bird, is very frequently seen in the
day time, sleeping on the branch of a Casuarina, to which they appear to
be partial. It is very common in the brushes of the Murray belt, and when
disturbed has an awkward flight, as if it knew not where to go. Its
plumage is very downy and soft, and it weighs exceedingly light.
16. PODARGUS HUMERALIS, VIG. AND HORSF.--Tawny-shouldered Podargus.
This singular bird is an inhabitant of the distant interior, and was seen
on several occasions, but invariably near hills. The appearance of this
uncouth bird is very absurd, with his enormous mouth that literally
reaches from ear to ear, and his eyes half shut. Mr. Browne surprised
five of these birds on a stone, on the summit of Mount Arrowsmith, about
half a degree to the southward of the Depot. They were all sitting with
their heads together, and all flew in different directions when roused.
17. EUROSTOPODUS GUTTATUS.--Spotted Goat-sucker.
This rapid-winged night bird is widely distributed over South-eastern
Australia, if not over every part of the Continent. I have often watched
the motions of this light and airy bird round a pond of water close to
which I have been lying, with the full bright moon above me, and been
amazed at its rapid evolutions; and admired the wisdom of that Providence
which had so adapted this little animal for the part it was to act on the
great stage of the universe. So light, that it had no difficulty in
maintaining a prolonged flight, with its noiseless wing, making its
sweeps to greater or lesser distances, and seeming never to require rest.
The habit of this Goat-sucker is to lie under any tree or brush during
the day, from which it issues in great alarm on being roused.
18. CHELIDON ARIEL, GOULD.
The brown-headed Swallow, a common bird in the interior during the
summer. Gregarious, and building clay nests, like bottles stuck against a
tree, in rows one above the other. Instinct guides these little birds to
select a tree that slopes and is concave, in which the nests will be
protected from rain or storms. A white-headed swallow was also frequently
seen, but it was always under circumstances that prevented our procuring
a specimen.
19. MEROPS ORNATUS, LATH.--Australian Bee-eater.
This beautiful little bird, with its varied plumage, is migratory, and
visits the southern parts of the continent during summer, when its
locality is near any river, or chain of ponds, although it is also found
in other places. I first shot this pretty bird on the banks of the
Macquarie in 1828, where it was in considerable numbers. It visits
Adelaide, and we saw it in the interior almost to our extreme north.
20. HALCYON SANCTUS, VIG. AND HORSF.--Sacred Halcyon.
This ill-proportioned bird in shape and general appearance is like the
Kingfisher. Instead however of living on fish, he contents himself with
lizards, beetles, grasshoppers, etc., and amongst these he makes a great
havoc. The range of this bird did not extend beyond the lat. of the
Depot.
21. HALCYON PYRRHOPYGIA, GOULD.--Red-backed Halcyon.
Similar in shape and figure to the last, but differing in plumage and in
size, having dull red feathers over the rump, the blue being also of a
duller shade. It ranges far north.
22. ARTAMUS SORDIDUS.--Wood Swallow.
The flight and habits of this bird are very like those of the swallow
tribe. They huddle together to roost: selecting a flat round stump, round
the edge of which they sit with their heads inwards, so presenting a
singular appearance: or else they cling together to the number of thirty
or forty on a branch like a swarm of bees. They were seen in every part
of the interior over the whole of which they appear to range.
23. ARTAMUS PERSONATUS, GOULD.--Masked wood Swallow.
So called because of a black mark on the throat and cheek resembling a
mask in some measure. The plumage of this bird is light, the breast of
the male almost approaching to a white, for size and shape there is
little difference between this and the last. Both are equally common, and
are seen together, ranging the brushes at a great distance from water.
24. ARTAMUS SUPERCILIOSUS, GOULD.--White eyebrowed wood Swallow.
A white line over the eye is the distinguishing mark of this bird. One or
other species of Artamus was found when no other birds were to be seen.
They generally sat on dead branches, and their flight extended no farther
than from the one to the other.
25. PARDALOTUS STRIATUS, TEMM.--Striated Pardalote.
There are several species of this beautiful tribe of little birds, but
the above was the only kind procured. The species under consideration
occupies the higher branches of the gum-trees, and is so small that it is
seen with difficulty.
26. GYMNORHINA LEUCONOTA, GOULD.--The White-backed Crow Shrike.
This bird is somewhat larger than, and very much resembles a magpie, but
the proportion of white is greater, and there is no metallic or varied
tint on the black feathers as on the European bird. In South Australia it
is a winter bird, and his clear fine note was always the most heard on
the coldest morning, as if that temperature best suited him. All the
species of this genus are easily domesticated, and learn to pipe tunes.
They are mischievous birds about a house, but are useful in a garden. I
had one that ranged the fields to a great distance round the house, but
always returned to sleep in it.
27. CRACTICUS DESTRUCTOR.
This bird has the strong, straight, and hooked bill. He is an ugly brute
in shape and plumage, but is a magnificent songster. His own notes ring
through the wilds, and there is not a bird of the forest that he does not
imitate. One of these birds regularly visited the camp at Flood Creek
every morning to learn a tune one of the men used to whistle to him, and
he always gave notice of his presence by a loud note of the most metallic
sound. It breeds on the hills, and is generally found wherever there is
shade and water.
28. GRALLINA AUSTRALIS.--Pied Grallina.
This harmless bird, somewhat larger than a field-fare, is found near
water, where the banks are muddy. It is common on all the river flats,
and lives on insects. Its pied plumage is very pretty, but its note is a
melancholy one. Very few were seen to the westward of the Barrier Range,
and those always close to lagoons.
29. GRAUCALUS MELANOPS.--Black-faced Graucalus.
The colour of the plumage of this bird is that of slate, and it has a
black throat. Its range is very extensive, but we did not see it in the
distant north-west interior.
30. PTEROPODOCYS PHASIANELLA, GOULD.--Ground Grauculus.
There were not more than six or seven of this bird seen during the
progress of the Expedition, and that only at the Depot. They were
exceedingly wild and wary, keeping in the centre of open plains and
feeding on locusts and grasshoppers. They always kept together, and flew
straight from and to the trees on the banks of the creek. This bird is
long in shape, and has a peculiar rise over the rump. It is elegantly
formed. The head and back are slate-coloured; the rump white, with
scollops, as also is the breast; the wings and tail being black and long.
It was with great difficulty that we procured any specimen of this bird
from its shyness. It apparently came from the N.E. and departed in the
same direction when winter approached.
31. CAMPEPHAGA HUMERALIS, GOULD.--White-shouldered Campephaga.
An insectivorous bird, frequenting the brushes of the interior, and of
wide range; visiting the southern districts in summer, but evidently
being a bird of a warm climate. A species very similar to the present
inhabited Norfolk Island.
32. PACHYCEPHALUS GUTTURALIS.--Guttural Pachycephala.
The strong bill of this bird indicates its character as living on
insects. It is common, and has been so often described as to require no
notice here.
33. PACHYCEPHALUS PECTORALIS, VIG. AND HORSF.--Banded Thick-head.
Similar in habits to the last; and is abundant in all parts of South
America.
34. COLLURICINCLA HARMONICA.--Harmonious Colluricincla.
A bird of dull plumage, with the habits of a thrush, keeping in the
bushes or young sapling gum-trees, near water, and living on insects of
various kinds. Its note is sweet, and amongst Australian birds it may be
considered a good songster. Its range is extensive. It was numerous on
Cooper's Creek, in lat. 27 1/2 degrees and long. 142 degrees.
35. OREOICA GUTTURALIS.--Crested piping Thrush.
I found this bird common on the plains eastward of the Darling, and also
in the western interior. It visits the south-eastern parts of the
continent, and is common in South Australia; frequenting open forests,
and betraying its presence by its monotonous notes. It is a strong built
bird, with a dull plumage, but its crest adds much to its beauty, and it
has a deep yellow iris.
36. ERYTHRODRYAS RHODINOGASTER.--Pink-breasted wood Robin.
This pretty little bird is, like our own native Robin, fond of woodlands,
and is generally found amongst thick brush, issuing from it to perch on
dead branches. Its breast is a fine bright pink; its plumage is otherwise
black and white, and it has a spot of white over the nostrils. The range
of this bird is extensive, and it is common to many localities.
37. PETROICA GOODENOVII.--Red-capped Robin.
Similar in shape to the last, and essentially with the same plumage, with
this exception, that the feathers over the nostril in this bird are a
fine deep red, as well as its breast. It is found in South Australia, and
was not uncommon in the interior.
38. PETROICA PHOENICEA, GOULD.--Flame-breasted Robin.
Similar in general appearance, but larger than either of the last; it is
grey where it is black in the others, and is without any frontal mark. It
has, like the others, a breast of red, approaching to a flame colour.
This species is not common in the interior. None of the three described
are songsters, and cannot therefore rival our own sweet bird in that
respect.
39. DRYMODES BRUNNEOPYGIA, GOULD.--Scrub Robin.
This bird is considerably larger than the last described, and is an
inhabitant of scrubs.
40. SPHENOSTOMA CRISTATA, GOULD.--Crested Wedge Bill.
The note of this bird is generally heard when all the other birds are
silent, during the heat of the day. Its range does not extend to the
westward of the Barrier Range, or beyond 32 1/2 degrees of latitude.
41. MALURUS CYANEUS.--Blue Wren.
This beautiful little warbler, so splendidly illustrated in the work of
Mr. Gould, is common in South-Australia. There are six or seven species
of the genus, all equally beautiful.
42. MALURUS MELANOTUS.
This beautiful description of Malurus, common in the brushes of South
Australia, was frequently met with, particularly in scrubby places.
43. MALURUS LEUCOPTERUS.--White-winged.
The habits of this bird are exactly similar to those of a wren. It
delights in being on the top of bushes, whence after singing for a minute
or two it flies into the centre and secretes itself. The rich-coloured
males of this family are generally followed by a number of small brown
birds, their late offspring. This peculiarity has been mentioned fully by
Mr. Gould in his splendid work on Australian birds.
41. EPTHIANURA AURIFRONS, GOULD.--Orange-fronted Epthianura.
The general appearance of this beautiful little bird is very different
from that of Australian birds in general. A few years ago a specimen came
accidentally into my hands, and it was so unlike any bird I had seen that
I doubted its having been shot in Australia, but concluded that it was a
South American specimen. Two or three however were procured by the
Expedition, in latitude 29 degrees, longitude 141 1/2 degrees.
45. EPTHIANURA TRICOLOR, GOULD.--Tricoloured Epthianura.
This beautiful little bird was procured, both on the summit of the
Barrier Range, and on the plains to the westward of it, generally
inhabiting open brush. It was conspicuous amongst the smaller birds on
account of its bright red plumage, but it was by no means uncommon. This
bird evidently migrates from the north-west, and the second time, when it
was seen so far to the westward of the ranges, it was most likely on its
return from that point.
46. PYRRHOLAEMUS BRUNNEUS, GOULD.--Brown Red-throat.
A small and common brush bird, and a good warbler, more remarkable indeed
for the sweetness of its song than for the beauty of its plumage.
47. CINCLORAMPHUS RUFESCENS.
A good songster, and generally distributed over the country.
48. AMADINA LATHAMI.--Spotted-sided Finch.
This is, I believe, the largest of its genus, and is a beautiful little
bird. It was not seen to the westward of Stanley's Barrier Range. Its
range is, however, extensive, as it is found in most parts of New South
Wales, as well as South Australia.
49. AMADINA CASTANOTUS, GOULD.
This pretty little bird is perhaps more numerous than any other in the
interior of Australia. Never did its note fall on our ears there but as
the harbinger of good, for never did we hear this little bird but we were
sure to find water nigh at hand, and many a time has it raised my
drooping spirits and those of my companions, when in almost hopeless
search for that, to us, invaluable element.
The Amadina castanotus is gregarious, collecting together in hundreds on
bushes never very far from water, to which they regularly go at sunset.
They build in small trees, many nests being together in the same tree,
and hatch their young in December. It was met with in every part of the
interior wherever there was water, but hundreds must perish yearly from
thirst, for the country must frequently dry up round them, to such a
distance as to prevent the possibility of their flying to another place
of safety. The hawks make sad havoc also amongst these harmless little
birds, generally carrying off two at a time.
50. CINCLOSOMA CASTANOTUS, GOULD.--Chesnut-backed Ground Thrush.
This is a bird of the great Murray belt, and was first shot by my very
valued friend Mr. Gould, when in a bush excursion with me in South
Australia. It is by no means a common bird, and is exceedingly wary.
51. CINCLOSOMA CINNAMONEUS, GOULD.--Cinnamon-coloured Ground Thrush.
This third species of Cinclosoma appeared at the Depot in latitude 29 1/2
degrees, longitude 142 degrees, during the winter months in considerable
numbers, and a good many specimens were procured. Mr. Gould tells me this
is the only new species procured during my recent Expedition, a proof, I
think, of his indefatigable exertions in the prosecution of his
researches. Indeed I can bear abundant testimony as to the perseverance
and ability he displayed whilst with me, and the little regard he had to
personal comfort, in his ardent pursuit of information as to the habits
of the feathered tribes in the singular region where he was sojourning.
52. ZANTHOMYZA PHRYGIA.--Warty-faced Honey-eater.
This Honey-eater, with alternate black and yellow plumage, frequented all
the sand hills where Banksias grew, but as none of those trees are to be
found to the westward of Stanley's Barrier Range, so these birds were
confined to the country eastward of it.
They are found both in New South Wales and in South Australia; and most
probably came to the latter place from the eastward.
52a. ACANTHORHYNCHUS-RUFO-GULARIS, GOULD.--Shiny Honey-eater.
A larger Honey-eater, with grey mottled plumage, generally found on the
Banksia, and not very common.
53. ZOSTEROPS DORSALIS.--Grey-backed white-eye.
Seen in many parts of the country through which the Expedition passed,
but more common in the settled districts of the colony. It is exceedingly
mischievous amongst the grapes, and frequents the gardens in such numbers
as to be formidable.
54. CRYSOCOCCYX LUCIDUS.--The shining Cuckoo.
This is the smallest of the Cuckoo tribe, and is known by the metallic
lustre of its wings. It is beautifully figured in Mr. Gould's work. It
was frequently seen in the interior.
55. CLIMACTERIS SCANDENS, TEMM.--Brown Tree-Creeper.
This creeper was, with another Climacteris Picumnus, common in the pine
forests and on the open box-tree flats all over the interior. It is not a
showy bird in any way, but is very active and indefatigable in its search
for insects. It is remarkable that no Picus has been found in Australia.
56. ACROCEPHALUS AUSTRALIS.--The reed singing Bird.
This beautiful warbler is common in south-eastern Australia, wherever
there are reeds by the banks of the rivers or creeks, but where they were
wanting its voice was silent. On the banks of the Murray and the Darling
its note was to be heard during the greater part of the night, almost
equal to that of the nightingale, and like that delightful bird, its
plumage is any thing but brilliant, it is however somewhat larger, and
although its general shade is brown, it has a light shade of yellow in
the breast that makes it brighter in its plumage than the European
songster.
57. HYLACOLA PYRHOPYGIA.
A common species inhabiting scrubs.
58. HYLACOLA CAUTA, GOULD.
A small bush bird, common to the belts of the Murray and other similar
localities.
59. CYSTICOLA EXILIS, GOULD.--Exile Warbler.
This little bird has a varied note, indeed it is not a bad songster. It
inhabits grass beds and scrubby lands, but its range does not extend
beyond the 32 degrees parallel. The Barrier Range appearing to form a
limit to the wanderings of many of the smaller birds.
60. ACANTHIZA PYRRHOPYGIA.--Red-rumped Acanthiza.
A small bush bird of brown plumage on the back, with a reddish spot over
the rump.
61. ACANTHIZA CHRYSORRHAEA.--Yellow rumped Acanthiza.
This bird is similar to the last in every thing but the colour of the
feathers over the rump, which in the present specimen is yellow. Very
common on the plains and open glades of woods.
62. XEROPHILA LEUCOPSIS, GOULD.--White-faced Xerophila.
It is singular, as Mr. Gould relates in his work, that this bird should
not have been known or procured until he shot it, almost on the steps of
Government house in Adelaide. It was occasionally seen in the interior,
but not to the westward of the Barrier Range. It keeps generally on the
ground. Mr. Gould has distinguished it in consequence its having a front
of white. It is short and compact in form, and like the preceding bird
keeps a good deal on the ground.
63. CALAMANTHUS CAMPESTRIS, GOULD.--Field Reed Lark.
This bird is smaller than the regular lark, and differs from it in many
respects: indeed it more resembles the tit lark than the sky lark, and
altogether wants the melodious song of the latter. It is a very common
bird all over such parts of Australia as I have visited; frequenting open
ground.
64. CINCLORAMPHUS CANTILLANS, GOULD. Great singing Lark.
This bird, both in its habits and song, resembles the Bunting of Europe,
rising like it from the top of one bush, with a fine full note, and
descending with tremulous wing to another. Its range, as far as I can
judge, is right across the continent, since we fell in with it at our
most distant northern points. It is much larger than the above, has a
stronger bill, and a dark breast. This bird is good eating.
65. CINCLORAMPHUS RUFESCENS.--Singing Lark.
This is also a good songster.
66. CORCORX LEUCOPTERUS.--White-winged Chough.
This bird has a dirty black plumage, excepting a white bar across the
wings. It is generally seen in groups of six or seven, flying from tree
to tree, and is widely distributed all over the continent.
67. CORVUS CORONOIDES, VIG. AND HORSF. White-eyed Crow.
This bird approaches somewhat to the raven. Its plumage is black and
glossy, its neck feathers like a cock's hackle, and the iris white, the
latter peculiarity giving it a singular appearance. Many of these birds
remained with us at the Depot after we had been deserted by most of the
other kinds, and served to fatten an old native who had visited the camp,
on whose condition they worked a perfect miracle. I suppose indeed that
there never was such an instance of an individual becoming absolutely fat
in so short a time, from a state of extreme emaciation, as in that old
and singular savage, from eating the crows that were shot for him, and
which constituted his chief, I might say, his only food.
68. POMATORHINUS SUPERCILIOSUS.
A bird that frequented the cypress and pine forests; running along the
branches of the trees like rats, and chasing each other from one to the
other. This bird is about the size of a thrush, but is very different in
other respects. It has dark brown plumage, with a rufous breast.
69. POMATORHINUS TEMPORALIS.
A bird very similar in plumage and habits to the last, but smaller and
quicker in its motions. I shot these birds on a former expedition to the
eastward of the Darling, and both are figured in my former work, page
219, vol. II.
70. GLYCIPHILA FULVIFRONS.--Fulvous-fronted Honey-eater.
A bird common amongst the honey-suckles (Banksias), in the sandy rises or
mounds in the neighbourhood of the Darling. It appears in South Australia
in similar localities, and has all the characters of its genus in the
curved bill, pencilled tongue, and other points.
71. GLYCIPHILA ALBIFRONS, GOULD.--White-fronted Glyciphila.
This bird is about the size of a chaffinch, and was first killed by me on
the Darling.
72. PTILOTIS CRATITIUS, GOULD.
This Honey-eater is remarkable in having a narrow lilac skin on the
cheek, with a light line of yellow feathers beneath it. It is long both
in the body and tail, and is of graceful form. Its colour is grey, but
the breast is of a lighter shade and is slightly mottled. First shot by
Mr. Gould in South Australia, from whose searching eye, and persevering
industry, few things escaped. It was not common in the interior, but was
occasionally seen in favourable localities.
73. ANTHOCHAERA CARUNCULATA.--Wattle Bird.
Frequents Banksias, and is common wherever those trees are to be found.
The Anthochaera carunculata is the largest of the wattle birds in South
Australia. It has a grey plumage, mottled with white, and is by no means
inelegant in its shape, being a long, slender, well proportioned bird.
The whole of the Honey-suckers have curved bills and pencilled tongues.
74. ANTHOCHAERA MELLIVORA.--Brush Wattle Bird.
This Honey-eater is of very limited range, and was so seldom seen during
the progress of the Expedition up the Darling, that it may almost be said
to be confined to the located district of South Australia. Its range,
however, is as far as to the parallel of 30 degrees, beyond which point,
as the majority of the honey-bearing trees cease, the larger
Honey-suckers are not to be found. Like all the birds of the same genus,
it is quick in its movements.
75. MELITHREPTUS GULARIS, GOULD.--Black-throated Honey-eater.
This bird is distinguished by its black throat, and a white lunate mark
on the nape of the neck. It is to be found in most places where
honey-bearing flowers or trees are to be seen. The general plumage is a
dull green.
76. MELITHREPTUS LUNULATUS.--Lunulated Honey-eater.
This species partakes of all the characters of the genus, but is much
smaller.
The range of the Honey-eaters does not extend beyond the 28th
parallel--towards the N.W. interior, or Central Australia; as there are
few honey-giving trees in that desert region. They are found all along
the summits of the Barrier Range, however, in considerable numbers; and
are always known by their loud wild note.
77. MYZANTHA GARRULA.--The Old Soldier.
A very sociable and tame bird. Its range is over the whole of
south-eastern Australia, and we saw nests of these noisy birds at Fort
Grey, in 29 degrees. The general colour is grey; their bill, and some
portion of the head being yellow. They are fond of being near
habitations, and frequent the trees round a stock station in great
numbers.
78. SITTELLA PILEATA, GOULD.--Black-capped Sittella.
A creeper, with a black head, and grey brown plumage. Not very common,
though often seen in the interior. It is larger than the S. Chrysoptera.
79. CACATUA GALERITA.--Sulphur-crested Cockatoo.
This Cockatoo, the most common in Australia, is snow-white, with the
exception of its crest, which is of a bright sulphur. It is also the most
mischievous of Australian birds, and not only plays sad havoc amongst the
wheat when ripe, but soon clears a field that has been sown. They are in
immense flocks, and when in mischief always have sentinels at some
prominent point to prevent their being taken by surprise, and signify the
approach of a foe by a loud scream. They build in the hollows of trees,
and in vast numbers in the Murray cliffs, making them ring with their
wild notes; and in that situation are out of reach of the natives. They
are abundant along the line of the Darling as high as Fort Bourke, but do
not pass to the westward of that river, nor do they inhabit the interior.
80. CACATUA LEADBEATERII.--Leadbeater's Cockatoo.
This beautiful Cockatoo is, like the first, of white plumage, with a
light red shade under the wings. He has a large sulphur and scarlet
crest, which he erects to the best advantage when alarmed. This Cockatoo
frequents the pine forests near Gawler Town, and is seen wherever that
tree abounds; but he is not common, although widely distributed over the
interior; his range extending to the latitude of Fort Grey, in 29
degrees; far beyond where any pinetrees were to be found.
81. CACATUA SANGUINEA, GOULD.--Blood-stained Cockatoo.
This is a smaller bird than either of the preceding; it is also of white
plumage, with a light red down under the feathers; and, although it has
the power of erecting the feathers on its head, it may be said to be
crestless. This bird succeeded Cacatua galerita, and was first seen in an
immense flock on the grassy plains at the bottom of the Depot Creek,
feeding on the grassy plains or under the trees, where it greedily sought
the seeds of the kidney bean. These cockatoos were very wild, and when
they rose from the ground or the trees made a most discordant noise,
their note being, if anything, still more disagreeable than that of
either of the others. They left us in April, and must have migrated to
the N.E., as they did not pass us to the N.W., nor were they any where
seen so numerous as at this place.
82. CACATUA EOS.--Rose Cockatoo.
This beautiful bird, seen in the depressed interior in such great
numbers, has a slate-coloured back, wings and tail, whilst its breast and
neck are of a beautiful rose-pink colour. It has a trifling crest, but
not one like the two first described cockatoos. We carried this bird with
us to the farthest north, as high up as the 25th parallel. There were
several nests at Fort Grey, from which the men procured several young;
one of which I brought alive to Adelaide. They hatch in the end of
October, and build in the hollows of the box-trees. A flock of these
cockatoos, turning their red breasts together to the sun in flying, look
very beautiful.