There were only two occasions on which the thermometer was noticed to

exceed the range of 130 degrees in the shade, the solar intensity at the

same time being nearly 160 degrees. The extremes between this last and

our winter's cold, when the thermometer descended to 24 degrees was 133

degrees. I observe that Sir Thomas Mitchell gives the temperature at the

Bogan, in his tent at 117 degrees and when exposed to the wind at 129

degrees; but I presume that local causes, such as radiation from stones

and sand, operated more powerfully with us than in his case. Whilst we

were at the Depot about May, the water of the creek became slightly

putrid, and cleared itself like Thames water; and during the hotter

months of our stay there, it evaporated at the rate of nearly an inch a

day, as shewn by a rod Mr. Browne placed in it to note the changes, but

the amount varied according to the quiescent or boisterous state of the

atmosphere. It will readily be believed that in so heated a region the

air was seldom still; to the currents sweeping over it we had to

attribute the loathsome and muddy state of the water on which we

generally subsisted after we left that place, for the pools from which we

took it were so shallow as to be stirred up to the consistency of

white-wash by the play and action of the wind on their surfaces. During

our stay at the Depot the barometer never rose above 30.260, or fell

below 29.540.

From December, 1844, to the end of April of the following year, the

prevailing winds were from E.N.E. to E.S.E., after that month they were

variable, but westerly winds predominated. The south wind was always

cold, and its approach was invariably indicated by the rise of the

barometer.

The rain of July commenced in the north-east quarter and gradually went

round to the north-west; but more clouds rose from the former point than

from any other. The sky generally speaking was without a speck, and the

dazzling brightness of the moon was one of the most distressing things we

had to endure when out in the bush. It was impossible indeed to shut out

its light which ever way one turned, and its irritating effects were

remarkable.

It will be observable to those who cast their eyes over the chart of

South Australia that the range of mountains between St. Vincent's Gulf

and the Murray river runs up northwards into the interior. In like manner

the ranges crossed by the Expedition also ran in the same direction. The

Black Rock Hill, so named by Captain Frome, is in lat. 32 degrees 45

minutes and in the 139th meridian, and is the easternmost of the chain to

which it belongs. Mount Gipps on the Coonbaralba range is in lat. 31

degrees 52 minutes and in long. 141 degrees 41 minutes, but from that

point the ranges trend somewhat to the westward of south, and

consequently, may run nearer to that (of which the Black Rock Hill forms

so prominent a feature) than we may suppose, but there is a distance of

nearly 150 miles of country still remaining to be explored, before this

point can be decided. Nevertheless, it is more than probable the two

chains are in some measure connected, especially as they greatly resemble

each other in their classification. They are for the most part composed

of primary igneous rocks, amongst which there is a general distribution

of iron, and perhaps of other metals. The iron ore, however, that was

discovered during the progress of the Expedition, of which Piesse's Knob

is a remarkable specimen, was of the purest kind.

It was, as has been found in South Australia, a surface deposit,

protruding or cropping out of the ground in immense clean blocks. This

ore was highly magnetic; the veins of the metal run north and south, the

direction of the ranges, as did a similar crop on the plains at the S.E.

base of the ranges. Generally speaking there was nothing bold or

picturesque in the scenery of the Barrier Range, but the Rocky Glen and

some few others of a similar description were exceptions. As the Barrier

Range ran parallel to the coast ranges, so there were other ranges to the

eastward of the Barrier Range, running parallel to it, and they were

separated by broad plains, partly open and partly covered with brush. The

general elevation of the ranges was about 1200 feet above the level of

the sea, but some of the hills exceeded 1600. Mount Lyell was 2000; Mount

Gipps 1500; Lewis's Hill 1000: but the general elevation of the range

might be rather under than over what I have stated. It appears to me that

the whole of the geological formation of this portion of the continent is

the same, and that all the lines of ranges terminate in the same kind of

way to the north, that is to say, in detached flat-topped hills of

compact or indurated quartz shewing white and abrupt faces. So terminated

the Coonbaralba Range, and so Mr. Eyre tells us did the Mount Serle

Range, and so terminated the range we saw to the westward of Lake

Torrens.

That they exhibit evidences of a past violent commotion of waters, I

think any one who will follow my steps and view them, will be ready to

admit.

That the range of hills I have called "Stanley's Barrier Range," and that

all the mountain chains to the eastward and westward of it, were once so

many islands I have not the slightest doubt, and that during the primeval

period, a sea covered the deserts over which I wandered; but it is

impossible for a writer, whatever powers of description he may have, to

transfer to the minds of his readers the same vivid impressions his own

may have received, on a view of any external object.

From the remarks into which I have thus been led, as well as those which

have escaped me in the course of this narrative, it will be seen that the

impressions I had received as to the past and present state of the

continent were rather strengthened than diminished, on my further

knowledge of its internal structure.

It is true, that I did not find an inland sea as I certainly expected to

have done, but the country as a desert was what I had anticipated,

although I could not have supposed it would have proved of such boundless

extent.

Viewing the objects for which the Expedition was equipped, and its

results, there can, I think, be no doubt, as to the non-existence of any

mountain ranges in the interior of Australia, but, on the contrary, that

its central regions are nearly if not quite on a sea level, and that the

north coast is separated from the south as effectually as if seas rolled

between them. I have stated my opinion that that portion of the desert

which I tried to cross continues with undiminished breadth to the Great

Australian Bight, and I agree with Captain Flinders, in supposing that if

an inland sea exists any where, it exists underneath and behind that

bank, (speaking from seaward). It would, I think, be unreasonable to

suppose that such an immense tract of sandy desert, once undoubtedly a

sea-bed, should immediately contract; considering, indeed, the sterile

character of the country to the north of Gawler's Range, to the westward

of Port Lincoln, and along the whole of the south coast of Australia,

nearly to King George's Sound, I must confess I have no hope of any

inland fertile country. I am aware it is the opinion of some of my

friends that the Stony Desert may communicate with Lake Torrens. Such may

have been and still may be the case--I will not argue the contrary, or

answer for the changes in so extraordinary a region. I only state my own

ideas from what I observed, strengthened by my view of the position I

occupied, when at my farthest north; we will therefore refer to that

position, and to the position of Lake Torrens, and see how far it is

probable, that a large channel, such as I have described the Stony

Dessert to be, should turn so abruptly, as it must do to connect itself

with that basin; the evident fall of the interior, as far as that fact

could be ascertained, being plainly from east to west.

The western shore of Lake Torrens, as laid down by Mr. Eyre, is in 137

degrees 40 minutes or thereabouts. Its eastern shore in 141 degrees of

longitude. Its southern extremity being in lat. 28 1/2 degrees. My

position was in 138 degrees of long. and 24 degrees 40 minutes of

latitude. I was therefore within 20 miles as far to the westward of the

westernmost part of Lake Torrens, and was also 250 geographical miles due

north of it. To gain Lake Torrens, the Stony Desert must turn at a right

angle from its known course, and in such case hills must exist to the

westward of where I was, for hills alone could so change the direction of

a current, but the whole aspect of the interior would argue against such

a conclusion. I never lost sight of the probability of Lake Torrens being

connected with some central feature, until my hopes were destroyed by the

nature of the country I traversed, nor do I think it probable that in so

level a region as that in which I left it, there is any likelihood of the

Stony Desert changing its direction so much as to form any connection

with the sandy basin to which I have alluded. Nevertheless it may do so.

We naturally cling to the ideas we ourselves have adopted, and it is

difficult to transfer them to the mind of another. In reference however

to what I had previously stated, I would give the following quotation

from Flinders. His impressions from what he observed while sailing along

the coast, in a great measure correspond with mine when travelling

inland, the only point we differ upon is as to the probable origin of the

great sea-wall, which appeared to him to be of calcareous formation, and

he therefore concluded that it had been a coral reef raised by some

convulsion of nature. Had Capt. Flinders been able to examine the rock

formation of the Great Australian Bight, he would have found that it was

for the most part an oolitic limestone, with many shells imbedded in it,

similar in substance and in formation to the fossil bed of the Murray,

but differing from it in colour.

"The length of these cliffs from their second commencement is 33 leagues,

and that of the level bank from New Cape Paisley, where it was first seen

from the sea, no less than 145 leagues. The height of this extraordinary

bank is nearly the same throughout, being nowhere less by estimation than

400 feet, not anywhere more than 600. In the first 20 leagues the rugged

tops of some inland mountains were visible over it, but during the

remainder of its long course, the bank was the limit of our view.

"This equality of elevation for so great an extent, and the evidently

calcareous nature of the bank, at least in the upper 200 feet, would

bespeak it to have been the exterior line of some vast coral reef, which

is always more elevated than the interior parts, and commonly level with

high water mark. From the gradual subsiding of the sea, or perhaps from

some convulsion of nature, this bank may have attained its present height

above the surface, and however extraordinary such a change may appear,

yet when it is recollected that branches of coral still exist, upon Bald

Head, at the elevation of 400 feet or more, this supposition assumes a

degree of probability, and it would farther seem that the subsiding of

the waters has not been at a period very remote, since these frail

branches have yet neither been all beaten down nor mouldered away by the

wind and weather.

"If this supposition be well founded, it may with the fact of no other

hill or object having been perceived above the bank in the greater part

of its course, assist in forming some conjecture as to what may be within

it, which cannot as I judge in such case, be other than flat sandy plains

or water. The bank may even be a narrow barrier between an interior and

the exterior sea, and much do I regret the not having formed an idea of

this probability at the time, for notwithstanding the great difficulty

and risk, I should certainly have attempted a landing upon some part of

the coast, to ascertain a fact of so much importance."

Had there been any inland ranges they would have been seen by that

searching officer from the ocean, but it is clear that none exists; for

Mr. Eyre in his intercourse with the natives, during his journey from

South Australia to King George's Sound, elicited nothing from them that

led him to suppose that there were any hills in the interior, or indeed

that an inland sea was to be found there; even the existence of one may

reasonably be doubted, and it may be that the country behind the Great

Australian Bight is, as Captain Flinders has conjectured, a low sandy

country, formed by a channel of 400 or 500 miles in breadth, separating

the south coast of the continent from the west and north ones. Although I

did not gain the direct centre of the continent there can be very little

doubt as to the character of the country round it. The spirit of

enterprise alone will now ever lead any man to gain it, but the gradual

development of the character of the yet unexplored interior will alone

put an end to doubts and theories on the subject. The desert of Australia

is not more extensive than the deserts in other parts of the world. Its

character constitutes its peculiarity, and that may lead to some

satisfactory conclusion as to how it was formed, and by what agent the

sandy ridges which traverse it were thrown up. I would repeat that I am

diffident of my own judgment, and that I should be indebted to any one

better acquainted with the nature of these things than I am to point out

wherein I am in error.

It remains for me, before I close this part of my work, to make a few

observations on the natives with whom we communicated beyond the river

tribes. Mr. Eyre has given so full and so accurate an account of the

natives of the Murray and Darling that it is needless for me to repeat

his observations. I would only remark that I attribute our friendly

intercourse with them to the great influence he had gained over them by

his judicious conduct as Resident Protector at the Murray. I fully concur

with him in the good that resulted from the establishment of a post on

that river, for the express pur pose of putting a stop to the mutual

aggression of the overlanders and natives upon each other. I have

received too many kindnesses at the hands of the natives not to be

interested in their social welfare, and most fully approved the wise

policy of Captain Grey, in sending Mr. Eyre to a place where his

exertions were so eminently successful.

In another place I may be led to make some remarks on the condition of

the natives of South Australia, but at present I have only to observe

upon that of the natives of the distant interior with whom no white man

had ever before come in contact.

If I except the tribe upon Cooper's Creek, on which they are numerous,

the natives are but thinly scattered over the interior, as far as our

range extended. The few families wandering over those gloomy regions may

scarcely exceed one hundred souls. They are a feeble and diminutive race

when compared to the river tribes, but they have evidently sprung from

the same parent stock, and local circumstances may satisfactorily and

clearly account for physical differences of appearance. Like the tribes

of the Darling and the Murray, and indeed like the aborigines of the

whole continent, they have the quick and deep set eye, the rapidly

retiring forehead, and the great enlargement of the frontal sinus, the

flat nose and the thick lip. It is quite true that many have not the

depression of the head so great, but in such cases I think an unusual

proportion of the brain lies behind the ear. In addition, however, to the

above physiognomical resemblances, they have the same disproportion

between the upper region of the body and the lower extremities, the same

prominent chest, and the same want of muscular development, and in common

with all the natives I have seen, their beards are strong and stand out

from the chin, and their hair the finest ornament they possess, only that

they destroy its natural beauty by filth and neglect, is both straight

and curly. Their skins are nearly of the same hue; nor did we see any

great difference, excepting in one woman, whose skin was of a jet black.

Two young women, however, were noticed who had beautiful glossy ringlets,

of which they appeared to be exceedingly proud, and kept clean, as if

they knew their value. Both Mr. Browne and myself observed a great

disparity of numbers in the male and female children, there being an

excess of the latter of nearly two to one, and in some instances of a

still greater disproportion.

This fact was also obvious both to Mr. Stuart and myself in the tribe on

Cooper's Creek, in which the number of female children greatly exceeded

that of the male, though there were more adult men than women. The

personal appearance of the men of this tribe, as I have already stated,

was exceedingly prepossessing--they were well made and tall, and

notwithstanding that my long-legged friend was an ugly fellow, were

generally good looking. Their children in like manner were in good

condition and appeared to be larger than I had remarked elsewhere, but

with the women no improvement was to be seen. Thin, half-starved and

emaciated they were still made to bear the burden of the work, and while

the men were lounging about their fires, and were laughing and talking,

the women were ceaselessly hammering and pounding to prepare that meat,

of which, from their appearance, so small a proportion fell to their

share. As regards the treatment of their women, however, I think I have

observed that they are subjected to harsher treatment when they are

members of a large tribe than when fewer are congregated together. Both

parents are very fond of and indulgent to their children, and there is no

surer way of gaining the assistance of the father, or of making a

favourable impression on a tribe than by noticing the children.

I think that generally speaking the native women seldom have more than

four children, or if they have, few above that number arrive at the age

of puberty. There are, however, several reasons why the women are not

more prolific; the principal of which is that they suckle their young for

such a length of time, and so severe a task is it with them to rear their

offspring that the child is frequently destroyed at its birth; and

however revolting to us such a custom may be, it is now too notorious a

fact to be disputed.

The voices of the natives, generally speaking, are soft, especially those

of the women. They are also a merry people and sit up laughing and

talking all night long. It is this habit, and the stars so constantly

passing before their eyes, which enables them to know when they are

likely to have rain or cold weather, as they will point to any star and

tell you that when it shall get up higher then the weather will be cold

or hot.

These primitive people have peculiar customs and ceremonies in their

intercourse with strangers, and on first meeting preserve a most painful

silence; whether this arises from diffidence or some other feeling it is

difficult to say, but it is exceedingly awkward; but, however awkward or

embarrassing it may be, there can be no doubt as to the policy and

necessity of respecting it. The natives certainly do not allow strangers

to pass through their territory without permission first obtained, and

their passions and fears are both excited when suddenly intruded upon. To

my early observation of this fact, and to my forbearing any forced

interview, but giving them time to recover from the surprise into which

my presence had thrown them, I attribute my success in avoiding any

hostile collision. I am sure, indeed, whatever instances of violence and

murder may be recorded of them, they are naturally a mild and inoffensive

people.

It is a remarkable fact that we seldom or ever saw weapons in the hands

of any of the natives of the interior, such as we did see were similar to

those ordinarily used by natives of other parts of the continent. Their

implements were simple and rude, and consisted chiefly of troughs for

holding water or seeds, rush bags, skins, stones, etc. The native

habitations, at all events those of the natives of the interior, with the

exception of the Cooper's Creek tribe, had huts of a much more solid

construction than those of the natives of the Murray or the Darling,

although some of their huts were substantially built also. Those of the

interior natives however were made of strong boughs with a thick coating

of clay over leaves and grass. They were entirely impervious to wind and

rain, and were really comfortable, being evidently erections of a

permanent kind to which the inhabitants frequently returned. Where there

were villages these huts were built in rows, the front of one hut being

at the back of the other, and it appeared to be a singular but universal

custom to erect a smaller hut at no great distance from the large ones,

but we were unable to detect for what purpose they were made, unless it

was to deposit their seeds; as they were too small even for children to

inhabit. At the little hut to the north of the ranges, from which the

reader will recollect we twice frightened away a poor native, we found a

very large spear, apparently for a canoe, which I brought to the camp.

This spear could not possibly have been used as a weapon, for it was too

heavy, but on shewing it subsequently to some natives, they did not

intimate that it was a canoe spear.

It may be thought that having been in the interior for so many months I

ought to have become acquainted with many of the customs and habits of

the people inhabiting it, but it will have been seen that they seldom

came near us.

The custom of circumcision generally prevailed, excepting with the

Cooper's Creek tribe, but you would meet with a tribe with which that

custom did not prevail, between two with which it did.

As regards their food, it varies with the season. That which they

appeared to me to use in the greatest abundance were seeds of various

kinds, as of grasses of several sorts, of the mesembryanthemum, of the

acacia and of the box-tree; of roots and herbs, of caterpillars and

moths, of lizards and snakes, but of these there are very few. Besides

these they sometimes take the emu and kangaroo, but they are never so

plentiful as to constitute a principal article of food. They take ducks

when the rains favour their frequenting the creeks and lagoons, exactly

as the natives of other parts of Australia do, with nets stuck up to long

poles, and must procure a sufficiency of birds during the summer season.

They also wander among the sand ridges immediately after a fall of rain,

to hunt the jerboa and talperoo, (see Nat. Hist.,) of which they procure

vast supplies; but all these sports are temporary, particularly the

latter, as the moment the puddles dry up the natives are forced to

retreat and fall back on previous means of subsistence.

With regard to their language, it differed in different localities,

though all had words common to each respectively. My friend Mr. Eyre

states, that they have not any generic name for anything, as tree, fish,

bird; but in this, as far as the fish goes, I think he is mistaken, for

the old man who visited our camp before the rains, and who so much raised

our hopes, certainly gave them a generic name; for placing his fingers on

such fish as he recognised, he distinctly mentioned their specific name,

but when he put his fingers on such as he did not recognise, he said

"Guia, Guia, Guia," successively after each, evidently intending to

include them under the one name. With respect to their religious

impressions, if I may so call them, I believe they have none. The only

impression they have is of an evil spirit, but however melancholy the

fact, it is no less true that the aborigines of Australia have no idea of

a superintending Providence.

In conclusion: I have spoken of Mr. Browne and Mr. Piesse throughout my

narrative, in terms such as I feel they deserved. I should be sorry to

close its pages without also recording the valuable and cheerful

assistance I received from Mr. Stuart, whose zeal and spirit were equally

conspicuous, and whose labour at the charts did him great credit. To

Flood I was indebted for having my horses in a state fit for service,

than whom as a person in charge of stock, I could not have had a better;

and I cannot but speak well of all the men in their respective

capacities, as having always displayed a willingness to bear with me,

when ever I called on them to do so, the fatigues and exposure incidental

to such a service as that on which I was employed.

Before closing my narrative I would make a few observations on the

conduct of such an Expedition as the one the details of which I have just

been giving.

It appears to me then that discipline is the first and principal point to

be considered on such occasions; unless indeed the leader be implicitly

obeyed it is impossible that matters should go on regularly. For this

reason it is objectionable to associate any irresponsible person in such

an undertaking. When I engaged the men who were to accompany me, I made

them sign an agreement, giving me power to diminish or increase the

rations, and binding themselves not only to the performance of any

particular duty, but to do everything in their power to promote the

success of the service in which they were engaged, under the penalty of

forfeiture of wages, in whole or part as I should determine. I deemed it

absolutely necessary to arm myself with powers with which I could

restrain my men even in the Desert, before I left the haunts of civilized

man, although I never put these powers in force,--and this appears to me

to be a necessary precaution on all such occasions. Equally necessary is

the establishment of a guard at night, for it is impossible to calculate

on the presence of natives--they may be close at hand, when none have

been seen or heard during the day. Had Dr. Leichhardt adopted this

precaution his camp would not have been surprised, nor would he have lost

a valuable companion. Equally necessary is it to keep the stock, whether

horses or bullocks, constantly within view. In all situations where I

thought it probable they might wander I had them watched all night long.

Unless due precaution however is used to ensure their being at hand when

wanted, they are sure to wander and give ceaseless trouble.

As regards the consumption of provisions, I had both a weekly and a

monthly statement of issues. In addition to this they were weighed

monthly and their loss ascertained, and their consumption regulated

accordingly, and I must say that I never found that the men were disposed

to object to any reasonable reduction I made. I found the sheep I took

with me were admirable stock, but I was always aware that an unforeseen

accident might deprive me of them, and indeed they called for more

watchful care even than the other stock. The men at the Depot were never

without their full allowance of mutton. It was only the parties out on

distant and separate services who were reduced to an allowance scarcely

sufficient to do their work upon.

The attention of a Leader is no less called to all these minutiae than

his eye and judgment to the nature of the country in which he may happen

to be. I would observe that in searching for water along the dry channel

of a creek, he should watch for the slightest appearance of a creek

junction, for water is more frequently found in these lateral branches,

however small they may at first appear to be, than in the main creek

itself, and I would certainly recommend a close examination of them. The

explorer will ever find the gum-tree in the neighbour hood of water, and

if he should ever traverse such a country as that into which I went, and

should discover creeks as I did losing themselves on plains, he should

never despair of recovering their channels again. They invariably

terminate in grassy plains, and until he sees such before him he may rest

assured that their course continues. Should the traveller be in a country

in which water is scarce it will be better for him to stop at any he may

find, although early in the day, than to go on in the chance of being

without all night, and so entailing fatigue on his men.

I trust that what I have said of the natives renders it unnecessary for

me to add anything as to the caution and forbearance required in

communicating with them. Kindness gains much on them, and their friendly

disposition eases the mind of a load of anxiety--for however confident

the Leader may be, it is impossible to divest the minds of the men of

apprehension when in the presence of hostile natives. He who shall have

perused these pages will have learnt that under whatever difficulties he

may be placed, that although his last hope is almost extinguished, he

should never despair. I have recorded instances enough of the watchful

superintendence of that Providence over me and my party, without whose

guidance we should have perished, nor can I more appropriately close

these humble sheets, than by such an acknowledgment, and expressing my

fervent thanks to Almighty God for the mercies vouchsafed to me during

the trying and doubtful service on which I was employed.

AN ACCOUNT OF THE SEA COAST AND INTERIOR OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA

WITH OBSERVATIONS ON VARIOUS SUBJECTS CONNECTED WITH ITS INTERESTS.

CHAPTER I.

DUTIES OF AN EXPLORER--GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION OF SOUTH

AUSTRALIA--DESCRIPTION OF ITS COAST LINE--SEA MOUTH OF THE

MURRAY--ENTERED BY MR. PULLEN--RISK OF THE ATTEMPT--BEACHING--ROSETTA

HARBOUR--VICTOR HARBOUR--NEPEAN BAY--KANGAROO ISLAND--KINGSCOTE--CAPT.

LEE'S INSTRUCTIONS FOR PORT ADELAIDE--PORT ADELAIDE--REMOVAL TO THE NORTH

ARM--HARBOUR MASTER'S REPORT--YORKE'S PENINSULA--PORT LINCOLN--CAPT.

LEE'S INSTRUCTIONS--BOSTON ISLAND--BOSTON BAY--COFFIN'S BAY--MR. CAMERON

SENT ALONG THE COAST--HIS REPORT--POSITION OF PORT ADELAIDE.

No mariner ever shook the reefs from his sails, on the abatement of the

storm, under the fury of which his vessel had been labouring, with more

grateful feelings than those with which I turn from the dreary and

monotonous wastes I have been describing, to the contemplation of fairer

and more varied scenes. My weary task has been performed, and however

uninteresting my narrative may have proved to the general reader, I would

yet hope, that those who shall hereafter enter the field of Australian

discovery, will profit from my experience, and be spared many of the

inconveniences and sufferings to which I was unavoidably exposed. They

may rest assured, that it is only by steady perseverance and unceasing

attention, by due precaution and a mild discipline, that they will

succeed in such an undertaking as that in which I was engaged. That

unless they are fortunate enough to secure such an assistant as I had in

Mr. Browne, their single eye must be over every thing, to study the

features of the country through which they are passing, to keep their

horses and cattle always within view, to prevent disputes in their camp,

and to husband their provisions with the utmost care, to ascertain from

time to time the quantity they may have on hand, and to regulate their

consumption accordingly. Few difficulties present themselves to the

explorer in journeying down a river, for that way is smooth before him;

it is when he quits its banks, and traverses a country, on the parched

surface of which little or no water is to be found, that his trials

commence, and he finds himself obliged to undergo that personal toil,

which sooner or later will lay him prostrate. Strictly speaking, my work

should close here. I am not, however, unmindful of the suggestion I made

in my Preface, that a short notice of South Australia at the close of my

journal would not be out of place.

In the following pages, therefore, it is proposed to give some account of

that province, from whence, as the reader is aware, I took my departure,

before commencing my recent labours. Its circumstances and prospects

have, I know, of late, been frequently brought before the public, but, I

trust, nevertheless, that my observations will carry something of

novelty, if not of interest, and utility with them.

South Australia, then, the youngest of the colonies that have been

established round the shores of the Australian Continent, is situate, as

its name would imply, upon its southern coast. It extends from the 132nd

to the 141st degree of longitude east from Greenwich, and runs up

northwards into the interior to the 26th parallel of latitude. The

district of Port Phillip bounds it on the east, for which reason, the

fixing of the eastern boundary line between those two fine provinces has

of late been a point of great interest and importance. Mr. Tyers, an able

and intelligent officer, was employed by the Government of New South

Wales, primarily to determine the longitude of the mouth of the Glenelg,

and from his triangulations and observations it would appear that the

141st meridian falls on the coast about a mile and a half to the eastward

of it. Subsequent observations, taken by Captain Stokes, in command of

Her Majesty's surveying ship, the Beagle, differ slightly from the result

of Mr. Tyers' observations, but they prove beyond doubt, the care and

accuracy with which the latter officer carried on his survey. The point,

has since, I believe, been finally recognised by the governments of

Sydney and Adelaide, and the boundary line been marked to the distance of

123 miles from the coast. The party employed in this useful undertaking,

however, was obliged to relinquish it for a time, in consequence of heavy

rains; but it is not probable that any dispute will hereafter arise on

the question. If the line could have been extended to the Murray river,

it would have been as well, but the desert country beyond it is valueless

to civilised man. Taking it for granted, then, that the S.E. angle of the

province of South Australia has been fixed, we shall in the first

instance proceed along its sea line, and notice any thing worthy of

observation, before we enter into a detail as to the character of the

country itself.

From the mouth of the Glenelg the coast of South Australia trends to the

westward as far as Cape Northumberland in long. 140 degrees 37 minutes

and in lat. 38 degrees; [Note 11. The reader will be good enough to bear

in mind that the Longitudes in this work are all east of Greenwich, and

that the Latitudes are south.] from Cape Northumberland it turns to the

N.N.W., keeping that general direction for more than 100 miles. Between

the last mentioned Cape and Cape Morard des Galles in lat. 36 1/2 degrees,

there are several bays, two only of which, Rivoli Bay, immediately to the

north of Cape Lannes, and Guichen Bay, a little to the south of Cape

Bernouilli, have more particularly drawn the attention of the local

Government, rendered necessary in consequence of the rapid settlement of

the back country. Recent surveys have enhanced the value of these two

bays, and townships have been laid out at each. That at Rivoli bay being

called Grey Town, that of Guichen bay Robe Town. At the latter, there is

a resident magistrate and a party of mounted police. Many allotments have

been sold in both towns, and although the bays offer but little

protection to large vessels, they are of great importance to the colonial

trade and to the settlers occupying the beautiful and fertile country in

the neighbourhood of Mounts Gambier and Shanck. From Cape Morard des

Galles, a low dreary and sandy beach extends for five leagues beyond the

sea mouth of the Murray, a distance of more than 100 miles. This beach,

which varies in breadth from one to three miles, conceals the waters of

the Coorong, and the depressed and barren country beyond it is completely

hid from view by the bright sand-hills on this long and narrow strip of

land.

The sea mouth of the Murray, famous for the tragical events that have

occurred near it, and which give a melancholy interest to the spot, is in

long. 138 degrees 56 minutes and in lat. 35 degrees 32 minutes. No one

could, I am sure, look on the foaming waters of that wild line of

sand-hills through which it has forced a channel, without deep feelings

of awe and emotion. Directly open to the Southern Ocean, the swell that

rolls into Encounter Bay, is of the heaviest description. The breakers

rise to the height of fifteen or eighteen feet before they burst in one

unbroken line as far as the eye can see, and as the southerly is the most

prevailing wind on that part of the Australian coast, it is only during

the summer season, and after several days of northerly wind that the sea

subsides, and the roar of breakers ceases for a time. The reader will

perhaps bear in mind that the channel of the Goolwa connects Lake

Victoria with Encounter Bay, the sea mouth of the Murray being the outlet

through which its waters are discharged into the ocean.

The channel of the Goolwa (now called Port Pullen, in compliment to an

officer of that name on the marine survey staff of the province, who

succeeded, after several disappointments, in taking a small cutter

through that narrow passage, and navigating her across the lake into the

Murray River, as high as the settlement of Moorundi) is to the westward

of the sea mouth as the Coorong is to the eastward. [Note 12. below]

[Note 12. The compliment thus paid to Mr. Pullen, who is now employed on

the expedition to the North Pole, in search of Sir John Franklin, by Col.

Gawler, the then Governor, was well merited, as a reward for the

perseverance and patience he had shewn on the occasion--for those only

who have been at the spot can form an idea of the disturbed and doubtful

character of the place, and the risk there must have been in the attempt

to enter such a passage for the first time.]

But although Mr. Pullen succeeded in getting into the Goolwa, it was only

under the most favourable circumstances, nor will the sea mouth of the

Murray ever, I fear, be available for navigable purposes. How far it may

be practicable to steamers, I would not hazard an opinion, nor is the

subject at the present moment one of much importance, for the country to

the eastward of the ranges is not yet sufficiently located to call for

such a speculation.

The sea mouth of the Murray is about the third of a mile in breadth, and

when the river is flooded a strong current runs out of it with such

rapidity, that the tide setting in at the same time causes a short and

bubbling sea. It took Captain Barker nine minutes and fifty-eight seconds

to swim across it on the fatal occasion on which he lost his life--but

he was obliged to go somewhat above the outlet, as the stream would

otherwise have carried him amidst the breakers. The western shore is very

low, but the eastern one is marked by a large sandhill, now called

Barker's Knoll, after that talented and amiable officer. From seaward,

nothing but a wild line of sand-hills meets the view, such as few

mariners would venture to approach, and through which fewer still could

hope to find a passage into the calmer waters of Lake Victoria, so

completely hidden is the entrance. It was only by patient watching

indeed, that Mr. Pullen seized the opportunity by which he entered the

Goolwa. He was not the first, however, who did so, as Captain Gill, the

master of a small cutter that was unfortunately wrecked on the strand at

some distance to the eastward of the outlet, was the first to come down

the Coorong in his boat, in which he ultimately reached Victor Harbour,

but he also had to remain three weeks under the sand-hills before he

could venture forth. Some years prior to this, however, Sir John

Jeffcott, the first judge of South Australia, and Captain Blenkensorf,

the head of the fishery, both found a watery grave in attempting to pass

from the Goolwa into Encounter Bay.

I speak more particularly on the point, however, because, in 1838, during

my first visit to the province, I went with a party of hardy seamen, with

the intention, if possible, of passing into the Goolwa from seaward. At

Encounter Bay, Captain Hart, who had the superintendence of the fishery

there, gave me his most experienced steersman, and a strong whale-boat.

In this I left Victor harbour for Freeman's Nob, a small rocky point in

the very bight of Encounter Bay, where I remained until three a.m. of the

next morning, when I started for the outlet under the most favourable

auspices. A northerly wind had been blowing off the land for several

days, and the sea was so tranquil that I had every hope of success. I had

five leagues to pull, and keeping about a mile from the shore, swept

rapidly along it. We were still about four miles from the inlet when the

sun rose over it, as if encouraging us onwards. On approaching it at low

water, I tried in vain to enter. The sea was breaking heavily right

across the entrance from one side to the other, and after several

ineffectual attempts to run in, I came to an anchor, close to the outer

line of breakers, hoping that the sea would subside at high water and

that we should then have less difficulty. We had not, however, been in

this position more than half an hour, when a heavy southerly swell set

in; from a deep blue the water became green, and the wind suddenly flew

round to the S.W. Before we could weigh and stand out from the shore,

several seas had broken outside of us, and in less than ten minutes the

whole coast, to the distance of more than a mile from the shore, was

white with foam, and it seemed clear that a gale was coming on. Under

these circumstances I determined on returning to the little harbour from

which we had started in the morning, but the wind being directly against

us, we made very little head. "We shall never get to the Nob," said Mr.

Witch, who had the steer oar, to me; "it blows too hard, Sir." "What are

we to do, then?" said I. "Why, Sir," he replied, "we must either beach or

run out to sea," "We will beach, then," I said; "it is better to try that

than to do any thing else." Mr Witch evinced some surprise at my

decision, but made no remark. "You had better select your place," I

observed, "and be careful to keep the boat's head well on to the seas."

"You need not fear me, Sir," said the hardy seaman; "I am accustomed to

such work. It looks worse than it really is." The sea, however, was now

breaking full a mile and a half from the shore, and in looking towards it

I observed a solitary horseman riding slowly along, as if watching our

movements. At length Mr. Witch said that he thought we were opposite to a

favourable spot, on which I directed him to put the boat's head towards

the shore, and to keep her end on as he went in. Round we flew, and in a

moment after we were running at railway speed on the top of a heavy wave.

"Steady, men," said Mr. Witch: "Steady all," and on we went; but looking

round him a moment after--"Back, all. Back, all," he cried. The men did

as they were ordered, and the boat's way was stopped. Her stern rose

almost perpendicularly over the prow, and the next moment fell into the

trough of the sea. The wave, transparent as bottle glass, rushed past us,

and topping, as it is called, burst at our very bow, in a broad sheet of

foam. "Give way, my lads," was the next order of the watchful steersman,

as he again cast his eyes behind him. "Give way, my lads. Give way, all."

"Steady, men," he called, as if doubtful of the result of the coming

wave. I thought I saw paleness on the face of the rowers, but they pulled

regularly and well, and a thundering sound soon told us we had escaped

the threatening sea that had come so rapidly up. I do not know if I am

doing justice to the occurrence. There was more of apparent than real

danger in it, and I myself was less nervous, because I had not long

before been accustomed to the heavy surf of Norfolk Island. It was,

however, a moment of great excitement. We had literally shot towards the

shore, and were now within fifty yards of it, when Mr. Witch said to me,

"Take care of yourself, Sir; we shall catch it at last."

I turned round, and saw a large roller close upon us, just on the point

of topping--I had scarcely time to stoop and give my back to it when it

came upon us, and I never had such a thump in my life. The boat was

filled in a moment and we were all thrown out--Mr. Witch, who had been

standing, was hurled to a great distance, but the men were up in a

moment, the water being about four feet deep, and with admirable

dexterity ran her on the beach. I do not remember ever having been in so

strong a breeze. The reader may form some idea of it when I assure him

that the wind rolled the boat over and over as if she had been as light

as a carpenter's chip, and the sand and pebbles came with such violence

in our faces, that we were obliged to retreat behind the sand hills until

it moderated.

It was my friend Mr. Strangways who had accompanied me from Adelaide,

whose figure we had seen on the beach, and he assured me that we seemed

to fly as we approached him.

The wind having apparently flown permanently round to the south, and it

being hopeless to expect that the sea would subside for many days, I

hauled the boat over the sand hills, and launching her in the Goolwa,

tried to row through the outlet to sea, but after remaining for eight

days, and having my boat four times swamped, I was forced to give up the

attempt as I had no time to spare. The distance between my outer and

inner points might have been a cable's length. In endeavouring to pass

out I shoaled to a quarter less one, having kept the lead constantly

going. I abandoned the task therefore under an impression that the outlet

was not navigable, yet Mr. Pullen succeeded in taking a small cutter into

the Goolwa with perfect safety. I cannot but conclude therefore that it

has a shifting bar, and that it will present difficulties to regular

navigation that will only be surmounted by a better knowledge of its

locality, and in all probability by artificial means.

From Freeman's Nob the coast line turns southwards to Rosetta Head, a

bold and prominent conical hill, from the summit of which the whalers

look for their game. Under the lea of Rosetta Head there is a small

harbour called Rosetta Harbour. It is separated by a rocky island called

Granite Island, and a reef that is visible at low water, and connects

Granite Island with the main land from Victor Harbour, so called after

H.M.'s ship Victor, when surveying in that quarter. Neither of these

harbours however are considered secure, although they are protected from

all but south-east winds.

It was in Rosetta Harbour, that during the early settlement of the Colony

the South Australian Company's ship South Australian, was driven on shore

and lost. The John Pirie, a strongly built schooner, also belonging to

the Company, had well nigh shared her fate. This little vessel was lying

astern of the Australian when she went ashore, with the reef close astern

of her. In this fearful position her anchors began to drag, and her

destruction appeared inevitable, when her commander, Captain Martin,

determined on attempting to take her over the reef, it being high water

at the time. He accordingly cut his cable, set his sails, and ran his

vessel on the rocks. Four times she struck and was heaved as often over

them, until at length she floated in the deeper water of Victor Harbour,

and found her safety under the lea of the very danger from which she

expected destruction. It was a bold resolve and deserved the success that

attended it. I always feel a pleasure in recording such events, not only

from feelings of admiration, but because they are examples for men to

follow when placed in equally hazardous circumstances, and shew that

firmness and presence of mind are equal to almost every emergency. The

anchorage in Victor Harbour is under the lea of Granite Island, but I

believe it is foul and rocky, and until both it and Rosetta Harbour shall

be better known, the seaman will enter them with caution. Encounter Bay

indeed, is not a place into which the stranger should venture, as he

would find it extremely difficult to beat out to sea with a contrary

wind. Still no doubt vessels may find refuge at these places from strong

west and south-west winds, but I have always understood that it is better

for a ship encountering a gale at the entrance of Backstairs Passage

rather to keep at sea, than seek shelter in any contiguous harbour.

There is room for two or three tolerably sized vessels in Victor Harbour,

which is in longitude 138 {188 in published text} degrees 38 minutes 0

seconds and in latitude 35 degrees 32 minutes, and in certain seasons of

the year it may be deemed secure, if it were not liable to other

objections, but I have heard it stated by an experienced seaman,

one whose intimate knowledge of this part of the coast of South

Australia is indisputable, that there is anchorage under the lea of

Freeman's Nob, and a small island off it, sufficient for two or

three vessels of 250 or 300 tons, altogether preferable to either

of those I have mentioned, as being more sheltered, and having better

holding ground--but we must not forget that it is deeper in the bay,

and there would consequently be a greater difficulty in beating out;

but the truth is that the importance and capabilities of these

harbours will only be developed as the wants of the colonists

render it necessary for them to have ports in this vicinity. When the

country to the eastward of the mountains shall be more thickly peopled,

and when the rich and fertile valleys of the Inman, the Hindmarsh and

Currency Creek, and the available country between the two last, be more

generally cultivated, and when the mines at the Reedy Creek and other

places are at full work, the want of a harbour at Encounter Bay will be

sufficiently apparent.

The principal whale fishery on the coast of South Australia is in

Encounter Bay, and has, I believe, of late years proved as advantageous a

speculation to those who have carried it on as could be expected; profits

are of course dependent on contingencies, as the nature of the season and

the number of whales that may visit the coast: but the fishery at

Encounter Bay has certainly been as successful as any other on the coast,

and would have been more so if the ground had not been intruded upon. As

a source of colonial industry, and as a proof of commercial enterprise, I

should regret to see this bold and hardy occupation abandoned. See

Appendix.

From Rosetta Head the line of coast again trends for a short distance to

the west, and forms, together with the opposite shore of Kangaroo Island,

the Backstairs Passage, or eastern entrance into St. Vincent's Gulf, of

which Cape Jervis is the N.W. point. It is here that the more important

navigation of the South Australian seas commences. The line of coast I

have already described is not sufficiently known to be approached by the

stranger without caution, nevertheless the several bays and harbours I

have mentioned may offer better shelter and greater convenience than I am

able to point out.

One of the first establishments, if not the very first, of the South

Australian Company was on Kangaroo Island, on the shores of Nepean Bay.

Here the town of Kingscote was laid out, and some very good houses built,

which are now falling to dilapidation and decay, since it has been

abandoned by the Company's servants for some years. Nevertheless

Kingscote is a very pretty sea-port town, and the harbour is undoubtedly

good. The bay is large enough to hold a number of ships, and is secure

from all winds, being almost completely land-locked. The water inside

moreover is smooth, since the bay is protected by a long spit of sand,

whereby the roughness of the outer sea does not affect it, and vessels

consequently lie there during heavy weather without any apparent motion.

It is to be regretted, that, with such advantages, Kingscote Harbour

should have any drawback, but when we have given credit for its

capabilities as a harbour, we have done all, and even as a harbour,

sailors are divided in opinion, whether or not American River, or a small

bay, five miles to the south-east of it, are not to be preferred. In

Nepean Bay there is a deficiency of water, which is not the case in

either of the last mentioned places. The soil is equally good in the

neighbourhood of all three, but Kingscote having been occupied, the

ground has been cleared of the dense brush that grew on it in a state of

nature, and some of the most productive gardens in the Province are to be

found there. It is astonishing what quantities of the finest onions are

sent from Kingscote, with other produce, to Adelaide. The island is,

however, so generally and so heavily covered with brushwood, that

although the soil is good in many places, it has been found impracticable

to clear. On the general character of Kangaroo Island, I would observe,

that, from the reports of those best acquainted with it, nine-tenths of

the surface is covered with dwarf gum-trees, or heavy low brush, that

there are no plains of any consequence, no harbours excepting those I

have already mentioned,--that water is generally scarce, and the best

land is most heavily wooded and perfectly impenetrable; but, if it is

thus useless and unavailable for pastoral and agricultural purposes,

Kingscote, being so short a distance from Adelaide, holds out every

inducement as a watering-place to those who, desiring change of air and

sea-bathing, would wish to leave the heated neighbourhood of the capital

during the summer months. It is a disadvantage to them that there are few

places on the shores of St. Vincent's Gulf, on which bathing places could

be established, but the change of air at Kingscote would be as great a

benefit as sea-bathing itself, for hot winds are not felt there, but a

cool and refreshing breeze is almost constantly blowing. As a

watering-place therefore, it may, one day or other, be of importance,

when the convenience of steam-boats shall render the passage from

Adelaide to Kangaroo Island, like a trip across the Channel. But it is to

be observed that whatever disadvantages the island may possess, its

natural position is of the highest importance, since it lies as a

breakwater at the bottom of St. Vincent's Gulf, and prevents the effects

of the heavy southerly seas from being felt in it. There is, perhaps, no

gulf, whether it is entered by the eastern or western passage, the

navigation of which is so easy as that of St. Vincent, and so clear of

dangers, that it can only be by the most fortuitous circumstances, or the

most culpable neglect, that any accident can befal a ship in its passage

up to Adelaide.

Anxious to make this portion of my work as useful as possible, and

feeling assured that the remarks I have hitherto made will only lead the

seaman to adopt those measures of precaution in approaching any of the

harbours and bays I have mentioned, our knowledge of which is still

limited, I shall here quote a passage from a small book of Sailing

Instructions for South Australia, published some years ago by Captain

Lee, an experienced mariner, for the guidance of commanders of vessels

bound to Port Adelaide. I shall only observe that, in running up the Gulf

it is extremely difficult to recognise the peak of Mount Lofty; but a

pile of stones has been erected upon it, which is easily visible through

a good telescope, and that the pilot station spoken of by Captain Lee as

being five miles from Glenelg has been abandoned, and the pilots now

board ships from the light vessel moored off the bar.

"Vessels from England bound to Port Adelaide, should, after leaving the

Cape of Good Hope, run to the eastward in 37 degrees or 38 degrees south

latitude, until they arrive in longitude 132 degrees east, when they may

haul to the northward, so as to get into latitude 36 degrees 25 minutes,

in longitude 135 degrees 30 minutes; then steer to the north-east, and

make Kangaroo Island, passing between which and a small island named

Althorpe's Island, they will enter Investigator's Straits. These Straits

form the western entrance to St Vincent's Gulf, and are so free from

danger, that it seems almost wonderful how any vessel can get on shore

without gross negligence. The only danger that can possibly affect a

vessel is the Troubridge Shoal, and this, by a little attention to the

lead, may be easily avoided, as on the south side of the shoal the water

deepens gradually from four to seventeen or eighteen fathoms. The shores

on the side of Kangaroo Island are bold and rocky, whilst on the north

side, on Yorke's Peninsula, they are low and sandy. In working up in the

night, stand no nearer to the north shore than nine fathoms, or to the

southward than twelve fathoms. You will have from sixteen to twenty

fathoms in the fair way--fine grey sand, mixed with small pieces of

shell. In working up St. Vincent's Gulf, you may stand to the eastward in

six fathoms, and towards the Troubridge Shoal in nine fathoms. The

prevailing winds are from the south-west to south-east, especially in the

summer months, when the sea breeze sets in about nine o'clock. The

strength of tide in the Gulf is very irregular, with a strong south-west

wind, the flood runs up at the rate of about two miles an hour, whilst

with a northerly wind it is scarcely perceptible. The anchorage in

Holdfast Bay is hardly safe in the winter months, as it is quite open to

north-west, west, and south-west winds, which, when blowing hard, raise a

short tumbling sea. The ground is a fine sand, almost covered with weeds,

so that when the anchor once starts, the weeds being raked up under the

crown, will in a great measure prevent its again holding. In the summer

months it may be considered a perfectly safe anchorage, if due caution is

exercised in giving the vessel cable in time. The best anchorage for a

large vessel is with the summit of Mount Lofty, bearing east in six

fathoms. A small vessel will lay better close in, just allowing her depth

of water sufficient to ride in.

"The pilot station for Port Adelaide is about five miles north of

Holdfast Bay. In running up keep in five fathoms, until abreast of the

flag-staff on the beach, when a pilot will come on board. It is always

high water in Port Adelaide morning and evening, and consequently low

water in the middle of the day. In the present state of the harbour, no

vessel drawing more than sixteen feet water ought to go into the port.

Several very serious accidents have befallen vessels in this port, for

which the harbour itself ought certainly to be held blameless."

"Vessels," he adds, "from Sydney, or from the eastward, bound to Port

Adelaide, having arrived at Cape Howe, should shape a course for Hogan's

Group in Bass' Straits, when off which, with a northerly wind, the best

passage through the Straits is between Redondo and Wilson's Promontory,

because should a gale of wind come on from the north-west, as it almost

invariably does commence in that quarter, they would have more drift to

the south-east than if they passed through near Kent's Group or Sir R.

Curtis's Island. It is also a great saving in distance. Having arrived

off King's Island, with a north wind, stand well out to the west or

south-west, so as to keep well to the southward of Cape Northumberland,

as the heavy gales from the north-west seldom last more than forty-eight

hours, when they veer to the south-west, and fine weather ensues. Being

abreast of Cape Northumberland, a south-west wind will be a favourable

wind to proceed to Adelaide. Steer directly for the east end of Kangaroo

Island, which you may pass at a distance of one mile; and if the wind is

from the south or south-east, you may then steer across Backstairs

Passage to Cape Jarvis; having arrived off which, proceed as directed

before: should the wind be strong from south-west or west-south-west,

keep Kangaroo Island close on board until abreast of Cape Jarvis, when

you will have the Gulf open. Should it be night time or thick weather,

and you have sighted Cape Willoughby at the entrance after passing that

Cape, steer north-west fifteen miles, and you may lay to or run up

north-east by east under snug sail until daylight. There are four rocks

at the entrance of this passage, called the Pages; with a beating wind,

you may pass on either side of them, but with a leading wind there is no

necessity to approach them at all, as it is best to pass close round Cape

Willoughby. Should the wind be so strong that a vessel could not carry

sufficient canvas to fetch through the passage, it would be better for a

stranger to stand out to the southward, rather than attempt to run into

Encounter Bay. The anchorage in Encounter Bay is close round Granite

Island, where a vessel may lay sheltered from all winds, save from

south-east. There are several good anchorages where a vessel may run to,

should she be caught in a gale of wind in Bass' Straits: one behind

Wilson's Promontory, the corner inlet of Flinders; another in Western

Port; two under King's Island, besides several on the Van Diemen's Land

side, as Circular Head, George Town, Preservation Island, &c., the whole

of which may be attained by a proper consideration of the chart; but it

is always better, provided a vessel has sufficient sea room, to keep at

sea than to run for an anchorage, as the sea will seldom hurt a good ship

properly managed, and she is always ready to take advantage of any change

that may take place.

"Should a gale of wind come on when a vessel is far to the westward of

King's Island, she may run for Portland Bay. In going in, you pass to the

eastward of the St. Lawrence Islands, and haul directly in for the land

west-north-west; keep along the south shore of the bay, at a distance of

one mile, until you see the flag-staff at Mr. Henty's; bring that to bear

west, and you will have six fathoms water about three-quarters of a mile

from shore."

From Cape Jarvis the coast line tends to the north along the eastern

shore of St. Vincent's Gulf. The scenery, as you turn the point, is

extremely diversified. Dark cliffs and small sandy bays, with grassy

slopes almost to the water's edge, succeed each other, backed by moderate

hills, sparingly covered with trees, and broken into numerous valleys.

Thus you pass Yankelilla, Rapid Bay, and Aldingis; but from Brighton the

shore becomes low and sandy, and is backed by sand hummocks, that conceal

the nearer country from the view, and enable you to see the tops of the

Mount Lofty Range at a distance of from eleven to twelve miles.

Port Adelaide, a bar harbour, is about nine miles from Glenelg, and

situate on the eastern bank of a large creek, penetrating the mangrove

swamp by which the shore of the Gulf is thereabouts fringed. This creek

is from ten to eleven miles in length. Its course for about two miles

after you cross the bar is nearly east and west, but at that distance it

turns to the south, and runs parallel to the coast; and there is an

advantage in the direction it thus takes, that would not be apparent to

the reader unless explained. It is, that, as the land breeze blows off

the shore in the evening, and the sea breeze sets in in the morning

vessels can leave the harbour, or run up to it as they are inward or

outward bound.

The landing-place of the early settlers was too high up the creek, and

was not only the cause of great inconvenience to the shipping, but of

severe loss in stores and baggage to the settlers; but at the close of

the year 1839, Mr. McLaren, the then manager of the South Australian

Company commenced and finished a road across the swamp to a section of

land belonging to his employers, that was situated much lower down the

creek, and on which the present Port now stands. The road, which is two

miles in length, cost the Company 12,000 pounds. It has, however, been

transferred to the local Government, in exchange for 12,000 acres of

land, that were considered equivalent to the sum it cost.

The removal of the Port to this place was undoubtedly a great public

benefit; and whatever perspective advantages might have influenced Mr.

McLaren on the occasion, he merited all due praise for having undertaken

such a work at a time when the Government itself was unable to do so.

Both the wharf and the warehouse belonging to the Company are very

creditable buildings, as is the Custom House and the line of sheds

erected by the Government; but the wharf attached to them is defective,

and liable to injury, from the chafing of the tide between the piers,

which are not placed so as to prevent its action. Mr. Phillips' iron

store is also one of a substantial description; but there was not, when I

left the province, another building of any material value at the Port.

Numerous wooden houses existed in the shape of inns, stables, etc.; but

the best of these were unfortunately burnt down by a fire a few days

before I embarked for Europe. Whether it is that a misgiving on the minds

of the public as to the permanency of the Port has been the cause of, and

prevented the erection of more substantial and better houses at Port

Adelaide, it is difficult to say; but any one might have foreseen, that

as the colony progressed, and its commerce increased, the Port would

necessarily have to be moved to some part of the creek where there was

deeper and broader water, for the convenience of the shipping. I felt

assured, indeed, that the removal of the Port would take place sooner

than was generally supposed. The following extract from the South

Australian Gazette of the 4th of December last, will prove that I judged

truly:--

"NEW ROAD TO THE NORTH ARM.--This road was commenced last Tuesday week;

and at the rate at which the work is progressing, will be completed

(except as regards the subsequent metalling and ballasting) within four

months from the present time. The line adopted is the one which was

proposed by Mr. Lindsay in 1840, as requiring less outlay in the original

construction than either of the other lines proposed. Taking Adelaide as

the starting point, the course will be either along the present Port Road

between Hindmarsh and Bowden as far as section No. 407, thence along the

cross track between that section and section No. 419 (preliminary), as

far as the southeast corner of Mr. Mildred's section, No. 421; then in a

straight line through the last named section and Mr. Gilles's, No. 2072,

after leaving which it passes through an opening in the sand-hills, and

then winds along the highest ground between the creeks, leaving the South

Australian Company's road about a mile on the left, till it joins the

main road or street running through section G. at the North Arm; or

through North Adelaide and along the road at the back of Bowden, parallel

with the main Port Road as far as Mr. Torrens' residence, to the

south-east corner of Mr. Mildred's section, thence through that section

as before. The soil of the so-termed swamp, or rather marsh, is of the

most favourable description for embanking and draining operations,

consisting at the part of the line where the work has been commenced, of

a good loam for the first spit, and then clay to the depth of eighteen

inches or two feet, resting upon a stratum composed for the most part of

shells of numberless shapes and sizes, which extends to the bottoms of

the drains (four feet), being the level of high water at spring tides,

and at about the same above the low-water level. The shelly stratum

continues below the bottoms of the drains to an uncertain depth. From the

commencement of the 'Swamp' to the Great Square or public reserve at the

junction of the North Arm with the main channel of the Creek, the

distance along the line of road is 4800 yards, or nearly two miles and

three-quarters. The breadth of the road between the ditches will be 114

feet, or between three and four times the breadth of the Company's road."

If there is anything more justly a subject of congratulation to the

Province than another, it is the commencement of the work thus notified.

The road is now, in all probability, finished, and that part of the creek

rendered available where these permanent improvements may be made,

without the fear of any future change; and when the shores of the North

Arm shall be lined by wharfs, and the more elevated portions of Torrens'

Island shall be covered with houses, few harbours will be able to boast

of more picturesque beauty. There was something dreary in sailing up the

creek with its dense and dark mangroves on either side, and no other

object visible beyond them save the distant mountains; but the approach

to the new Port will not fail to excite those pleasurable feelings in the

heart of the stranger which give a colouring to every other object.

The removal of the port to the proposed locality will bring it within

three miles of the bar, and will be of incalculable advantage to the

shipping, since there will no longer be any delay in their putting to

sea. The following letter, addressed by Captain Lipson, the

Harbour-master, to the Colonial Secretary, in reference to the

improvements that have been effected at the bar, will best explain its

present state, and the description of vessels it will admit into the

Port.

"Port, 6th July, 1847.

"SIR,--In answer to your letter of this day's date, requesting that I

would report to you, for the information of the Legislative Council, what

beneficial effects have been produced by the use of the mud barge in

deepening the bar at the entrance of Port Adelaide, since the

commencement of its operation, in the year 1845, up to the present date,

also what additional depth of water, if any, has been obtained by the

work alluded to.

"I have the honour to state, that at the commencement of the colony, her

Majesty's storeship 'Buffalo' was brought out by the then governor,

Captain Hindmarsh, to be detained here nine months for the protection and

convenience of the colonists. It was, therefore, much wished to have her

inside the bar; but after attending and carefully watching successive

spring-tides, it was given up as impracticable, she drawing fifteen feet.

The Governor then appointed a board to examine the bar, consisting of the

masters of the 'Buffalo,' 'John Renwick,' and another, who, in their

report, stated as their opinion, that no vessel above 300 tons ought to

be brought into the harbour; however, last week two vessels exceeding 600

tons have been brought up to the wharf. But the most beneficial effect is

now felt from a ship being able to cross the outer bar so much sooner on

the tide than before, thereby having sufficient time to take her round

the bar, and, if moderate, to beat up and anchor at the North Arm the

same tide. Ships may now be brought in on the springs in winter, drawing

seventeen or eighteen feet, as the time of high water is in the day, and

the wind generally fair to beat in, but not so in going out, from the

difficulty of reaching the bar at the time required, and the tide leaving

so quickly after the ebb is made great care is required; and I find it

unsafe to allow any vessel to load deeper than 15 or 16.6 inches at most.

With a tug, there would be less difficulty and danger in loading to 18

feet than there now is to 15.

"There is now three feet more water on the bar than there was previous to

its being deepened, and if the work be continued next summer, to enlarge

a cut which has been made, there will be five feet.

"I have the honour to be, Sir, your obedient servant,

"THOMAS LIPSON, Harbour Master.

"The Honourable Colonial Secretary."

It is not clear to me, however, that the admission of larger class

shipping into the Port will be of any great advantage. I am led to

believe that ships of smaller tonnage than those drawing 16 to 17 feet,

have been found to be most convenient for the ordinary purposes of

commerce. However, it is evident, that if Captain Lipson continues the

same praiseworthy exertions he has hitherto used, he will deepen the bar

for vessels of any tonnage. Under existing circumstances, it may be as

well to state that any ship arriving off the bar when there is not

sufficient water on it for them to enter the port, will find good

anchorage all round the lightship, particularly a little to the westward

of it. The whole Gulf, indeed, from this point, may be considered as a

safe and extensive roadstead. As regards Port Adelaide itself, I cannot

imagine a securer or a more convenient harbour. Without having any broad

expanse of water, it is of sufficient width for vessels to lie there in

perfect safety, whether as regards the wind or the anchorage.

The head of St. Vincent's Gulf is in latitude 34 1/2 degrees. Between

that point and Port Adelaide, the shore is either lined by mangroves, or

is low and sandy. There are, nevertheless, several inlets similar to, but

much smaller than Port Adelaide, and other commodious anchorages for

small craft along it. The principal of these is the inlet connected with

the Gawler, of which I shall hereafter speak. York Peninsula forms the

western shore of St. Vincent's Gulf, and separates it from that of

Spencer. It is a long, low tongue of land--Cape Spencer, its southern

extremity, being in 35 degrees 17 minutes, and in long. 136 degrees 52

minutes. Though embracing a considerable area, the character of the

Peninsula is unfavourable to the growth of nutritive herbage; the surface

soil is a species of calcareous limestone, the rock formation of a

tertiary description, although, at the lower extremity, granite and trap

rock are known to exist. The surface of the country is undulating,

covered in many places by scrub, and the trees being very short-lived,

the whole is matted with dead timber, and difficult of access. A

deficiency of water renders York Peninsula still more unfavourable for

location; nevertheless, several sections of land have been purchased on

that part which is immediately opposite to Port Adelaide, and it is said

that indications of copper have been found there, a fact I should be

inclined to doubt. In 1840, a company applied for a special survey on the

shores of the Peninsula to the southward of Point Pearce, and gave the

name of Victoria Harbour to the locality; but the survey was subsequently

abandoned in consequence of the unfavourable character of the interior,

from the great deficiency of water.

If we except the results of a survey made by the late Lieut.-Governor,

Colonel Robe, of the upper part of Spencer's Gulf, during which, as is

the case in the same part of the neighbouring gulf, his Excellency found

convenient bays and inlets, but little is known of the eastern shore of

that splendid gulf, beyond this point. Double the size of St. Vincent's

Gulf, it runs up to the 32 1/2 parallel, and was at one time or other

very probably connected with Lake Torrens. The higher part is backed by a

range of mountains, the more prominent of which were named by Captain

Flinders--Mount Remarkable, Mount Browne, and Mount Arden. On the first

of these there were so many indications of copper, that a special survey

of 20,000 acres was taken by a company for the purpose of working any

lodes that might be found. The country round about Mount Remarkable is

stated to be exceedingly picturesque and good; so that independently of

any value it may possess as a mineral survey, it possesses both

agricultural and pastoral advantages. After passing the Mount Remarkable

Range, however, the country falls off in character. A dreary region

extends round the head of the Gulf, and, it is to be feared, to a much

greater distance. The description given by Mr. Eyre, and the reports of

those who have endeavoured to penetrate to the westward of Lake Torrens

both agree as to the sterile and inhospitable character of the remote

interior. Little improvement takes place in it on following down the

western shore of the Gulf. Several individuals, indeed, have perished in

endeavouring to take stock round the head of the Gulf to Port Lincoln,

either from the want of water, or from having wandered and lost

themselves amidst the low brush with which it is covered. The whole of

the country, indeed, lying to the westward of Spencer's Gulf is, as far

as I have been able to ascertain, of very inferior description. There

are, it is true, isolated patches of good land, and a limited run for

sheep, but the character of the country corresponds but little with the

noble feature for which Spencer's Gulf is so justly celebrated. In

reference to this magnificent basin, Captain Lee, from whom I have

already quoted, observes--

"The harbour of Port Lincoln, including Boston Bay, is situated near the

extremity of the Peninsula, which forms the west side of Spencer's Gulf

in the Province of South Australia, and from its great extent, and the

number of its safe anchorages, is capable of containing the largest

fleets, and as a depot, is not, perhaps, to be surpassed by any port in

the world. Vessels from England, bound to Port Lincoln, should run along

in about 35 degrees 20 minutes south latitude, until they arrive in 135

degrees 20 minutes east longitude, when they may haul up to the

north-east, and make Cape Catastrophe. After arriving near the Cape, they

may then shape a course to pass between it and Williams' Island. There

are strong tide ripplings here, which, to a stranger, would present the

appearance of reefs; but as the channel is perfectly clear, no danger

need be apprehended. Having passed through the channel, should night be

approaching, it would be advisable for a stranger to keep the main land

aboard, leaving another Island (Smith's Island), on the starboard hand,

and bring up in Memory Cove, a perfectly safe anchorage, in about five

fathoms, and wait for day-light. Proceeding then along shore to the

northward, he will arrive at Taylor's Island, which may be passed on

either side; after which he may run along shore at a distance of one

mile, until he arrives at Cape Donnington. This Cape may be known by its

having a small islet laying about half a mile from the point. Rounding

this islet, at half a cable's length, in about nine-fathoms' water, and

hauling to the westward, he will open the magnificent harbour of Port

Lincoln, stretching to the south-west as far as the eye can reach. Should

the wind be fresh from the south or south-west, it would be better if

bound to Boston Bay, to beat up between Boston Island and the promontory

of Cape Donnington. The shores are steep on both sides, so that a vessel

may stand close in on either tack. Should the wind be so strong as to

prevent a vessel beating in, she may run up under easy sail to a bay on

the north-east end of Boston Island, and bring up in seven fathoms

opposite a white sandy beach, three-quarters of a mile off shore. There

is also excellent anchorage at the entrance to Spalding Cove, bringing

the western point of the promontory of Cape Donnington to bear north by

east, and the northernmost of Bicker's Island west by north, you will lay

in seven fathoms, muddy bottom. Having arrived at Bicker's Island and

bound for Boston Bay, stand directly over to the westward, passing the

south end of Boston Island, until you open the bay, when you may choose a

berth according to circumstances, and in any depth from ten to four

fathoms.

"The positions of the various points and islands are so correctly laid

down on Flinders' chart, that the skilful navigator will at once know his

exact situation by cross-bearings.

"The anchorage in Port Lincoln itself is not so safe as in Boston Bay,

and more difficult of access, especially in the winter months, when the

winds are strong from the south-west, and in the summer months it is

quite open to the north-east. In working up, a vessel may stand close in

to the eastern shore, and to within half a mile of the western, but

should not attempt to pass between the two Bicker's Islands, as there is

a reef running from the northernmost island nearly across to the other.

"Vessels from Adelaide, bound to Boston Bay, after arriving at Althorpe's

Island, should shape a course so as to pass between the Gambier Islands

and Thistle's Islands. There is a small island bearing west five miles

from the south end of Wedge Island, the largest of the Gambier group,

which is not laid down in Flinders, which should be left on the starboard

hand. Bring the highest part of Thistle's Island to bear west, distant

about six miles, and in twenty-two fathoms water, and a north-west

half-west course will carry you through midway between the Horse-shoe

Reef and the rocks which lay off the north-west end of Thistle's Island,

and in the direct track for Cape Donnington. The passage between the

reefs is about three miles wide, and ought not to be attempted in the

night, as the tides set directly across the channel. There is very good

anchorage on the north-east side of Thistle's Island, well sheltered

three-fourths of the year. Bring the rocks before-mentioned to bear

north-north-west, and two remarkable sand hills south by west, and you

will lay in five fathoms, one mile off shore--north end Thistle's Island

west by south. Should the wind be so strong from southwest or

west-south-west, so that a vessel from the eastward cannot carry sail

sufficient to fetch up to Cape Donnington, or under Thistle's Island, it

would be advisable to bear up for Hardwick Bay; passing to the eastward

of Wedge Island, come no nearer to the shore of York's Peninsula than two

miles, until you arrive within five miles of Corny Point, when you may

haul in for that point, rounding it a distance of half a mile, you may

bring up in five fathoms, one mile from shore: Corny Point bearing west.

Vessels from Sydney, bound to Port Lincoln, may pass through Backstairs

Passage, and proceed according to the foregoing directions, or by keeping

well to the southward, pass outside Kangaroo Island, until they arrive in

longitude 136 degrees E., when they may shape a course either to pass

between Gambier's and Thistle's Islands, or else for Cape Catastrophe,

taking care to give the Neptune Islands a wide berth, and then proceed

according to either of the foregoing directions."

To this extract which refers exclusively to the navigation of Spencer's

Gulf, I may add, that Boston Island lies immediately opposite to the bay,

and that there are two channels of entrance round the island, through

which vessels of the largest size can pass with any wind or in any

weather, for the harbour is so sheltered by the headlands forming the

entrance, that the swell of the sea is broken before reaching it.

The high ground which almost surrounds Boston Bay, protects it in like

manner from the winds, more especially those coming from the west and

southwest, in which directions some of the hills attain the height of

several hundred feet.

The depth of water in the central parts of the Bay is about twelve

fathoms, varying from five to seven at the distance of less than a

quarter of a mile from the shore all round; whilst at Boston Point, where

the town of Boston has been laid out, there is a depth of two, three, and

four fathoms, at about a boat's length from the land. The bottom consists

in some places of mud, in others of shells and sand, so that the

anchorage is safe.

The tide sometimes rises seven feet, but that is considered a high tide,

the ordinary rise not being more than five; this depends, however, on the

outward state of the Gulf, and the quarter from which the wind may happen

to be blowing.

In the summer season, the land and sea breezes blow very regularly, for

three weeks or a month at a time. They are then succeeded by strong winds

from the south-west, that last for three or four days, and are sometimes

very violent. In winter these interruptions to the usual calm state of

the weather are more frequent, but the harbour is little influenced by

them; taking it altogether, indeed, as a harbour, it is unquestionably as

safe and commodious as any in the world, and it is deeply to be

regretted, that its position, of which I shall have to speak, and the

nature of the country behind it, should be any drawbacks to its becoming

one of the most important ports on the Australian Continent.

In the vicinity of Port Lincoln, the land is of very varied character. To

the west and south-west it is poor and scrubby, covered with a diminutive

growth of she oak (Casuarinae) or dwarf gumtrees (Eucalypti), or it is

wholly destitute of timber; but along the line of hills, stretching to

the north, at a short distance from the shores of the Gulf, there is an

improvement in the soil. The pasture is well adapted for sheep, and there

are isolated valleys in which the soil is very good and fit for

cultivation; but this kind of country only occupies a narrow strip of

about ten miles, and although tracts of available land have been found in

the interior, and it has been ascertained that water is not deficient, it

must still, I fear, be considered as a very inferior district. As regards

Port Lincoln itself, the inhabitants procure their water from a spring,

on the sea-shore, which is covered by every tide. This spring does not

appear to undergo any sensible diminution, even in the height of summer,

and is stated to be so copious, that it would yield a most abundant

supply.

It has been reported, that strong indications of the presence of copper

have been found in the neighbourhood of Port Lincoln, and this report may

be correct. The discovery of mines there, would at once raise the harbour

to importance, and make it the resort of shipping. Mines might be worked

at Port Lincoln with more advantage perhaps to the province, than where

they have been already in operation, for it admits of great doubt whether

the benefit from the distribution of wealth from mining speculations,

makes up for the interference of such speculations with other branches of

industry. Unless some local advantage, of the kind to which I have

alluded, should give this noble harbour an impulse however, it would

appear to have but little prospect of becoming a place of importance, for

although Spencer's Gulf penetrates so deep into the northern interior,

the country is altogether unprofitable, and although there is depth of

water sufficient for the largest ships to the very head of the Gulf, yet,

as far as our present knowledge extends, it is not probable that it will

be the outlet of any export produce. It is to be remembered, however,

that if there should be minerals in any abundance found on the Mount

Remarkable special survey--the ore must necessarily be shipped, from some

one of the little harbours examined by the Lieutenant-Governor during his

survey of that part of Spencer's Gulf--In such case, Port Lincoln will

be brought more immediately into notice.

From Port Lincoln, the shore of the Gulf still trends to the south, as

far as Cape Catastrophe, in lat. 35 degrees. It then turns with an

irregular outline to the N.N.W., and several bays succeed each other. The

first of these is Sleaford Bay, sometimes occupied as a whaling station,

but of no other importance. Coffin's Bay, almost immediately behind Port

Lincoln, is rather an inlet than a bay, and runs so far into the

interior, as to approach Boston Bay, to within 16 miles. Coffin's Bay is

exceedingly wide, and objectionable for many reasons, but as it is a

whaling station of some importance, and visited by numerous whalers, I

shall quote Captain Lee's remarks upon it, and give his directions for

going to it.

"This is a very large bay, perfectly secure from all winds, save from

north to east, but unfortunately a great portion of it is rendered

useless by the shallowness of the water. The best anchorage is with Point

Sir Isaac, bearing north-north-west, about one mile and a half from the

western shore in four or five fathoms. In working in with a southerly

wind, you may stand to the eastward until you bring the above point to

bear south-west by west, after which it would be better to make short

tacks along the western shore. You must be careful to keep the lead

going, as the water shoals from five and four fathoms to one and a half

at a single cast. This bay seems well adapted for a fishing station. The

inner part of the bay extends a long way back into the country, at least

thirty miles from Point Sir Isaac, and contains two or three secure

harbours and excellent anchorages, a new chart of which is in course of

publication.

"Vessels from Sydney bound to Coffin's Bay, should proceed as if bound to

Port Lincoln until arrived off the Neptune Islands, when they should

steer for Perforated Island, having passed which, steer for Point

Whidbey, giving it a berth of at least two miles. In running along shore

from Point Whidbey to Point Sir Isaac, come no nearer the shore than two

miles, until you get the latter point to bear east-south-east as the

rocks lay a long way from the shore. Having arrived at Point Sir Isaac

proceed as directed before.

"Althorp's Island is of moderate height, situated at the entrance of

Investigator's Straits; may be passed close to on the south side. Several

other islands and reefs lay between it and York's Peninsula, rendering

that passage highly dangerous.

"Wedge Island, one of the Gambier Group, may easily be known by its

wedge-like form, sloping from south-east to north-west. There are two

peaked rocks off the south-east end, one mile off shore, also a small

island, bearing west five miles from the south end, not laid down in

Flinders' charts.

"Thistle's Island, is low at each end but high in the middle, it lays in

a north-west and south-east direction. There are some rocks which lay off

the northern point about three miles, which being connected with the

island itself, forms a good anchorage behind, secure from all but north

and east winds, another good place for a fishing party. See Port Lincoln

directions.

"Neptune's Islands are low, three in number, and having numerous rocks

and reefs amongst them; ought not to be approached too closely, there

being generally a strong swell from the south-west, the sea breaks over

them with great violence.

"Liguanea Island is of moderate elevation, and may be passed on the south

side at a distance of two miles.

"Perforated Island, as its name imports, may be known by its having a

hole through it near the north end and close to the top of the island, it

may be passed close on any side. FOUR HUMMOCKS may easily be known from

their appearance answering to their name.

"Greenly Island, this is a peaked island, rather high, and may be seen

ten leagues off. There is another island laying south and by west, seven

miles, not laid down in Flinders', and two other reefs between them,

rendering the passage unsafe.

"Proceeding along shore to the northward you will fall in with Flinders'

Island. This is a large island, covered with wood, with plenty of fresh

water, possessing a secure anchorage on the northern side, and is

admirably adapted for a whaling station. In going on from the southward,

keep outside the top Gallant {GALL'S in published text} Island, and steer

directly for the north-east point, rounding which, you will open the

anchorage, and as there is no danger, but may be seen, you may choose

a berth according to circumstances.

"Waldegrave's Island, close to the main land, has good anchorage on the

northern side, secure from south-east and south-west winds.

"The shore, from Waldegrave's Island to Point Weyland is low and sandy.

There is a large body of water running in a direction parallel to the

coast, all the way from Point Weyland to the northward of Cape Radstock,

having an entrance at both points. It appears as if the action of the sea

from the south-west, had broken through the coast range and filled up the

valley immediately behind. Indeed the whole coast from Kangaroo Island to

as far to the north-west as has been visited by the author, bears evident

marks of the encroachments of the sea. In some places marked down as

small islands in Flinders', there are now only reefs, other places which

were formerly points of land, are transformed to islands."

In the year 1840, I was instructed by the then Governor of South

Australia, to send an officer of the survey in a small vessel, with a

supply of provisions for Mr. Eyre, who was at that time supposed to have

reached Fowler's Bay, during the first of his expeditions; I accordingly

selected Mr. John Cannan, in whose zeal and ability I had every

confidence. This officer left Port Adelaide the 9th September, 1840, with

instructions from me, in addition to the immediate object he had in view,

to survey such parts of the coast along which he was about to sail, as

had only been partially examined by Captain Flinders. Unfortunately it

was during the winter time, and the task I had assigned him would, I

knew, be attended with considerable risk in beating along that dangerous

and stormy coast. Mr. Cannan arrived at Streaky Bay on the 27th

September, but was disappointed in finding Mr. Eyre, or a letter he had

buried for him under Cape Bauer, he therefore proceeded to the

examination of the coast, as I had instructed him to do; and the

following extract from his report will not only enable the reader to

judge how he performed that service, but will give him the best

information as to the character of the several bays and inlets he

examined.

"I send you a chart of Streaky, Smoky, and Denial Bays, by which you will

be better able to judge of the capabilities of the harbours they contain,

than by any description I can give. I may mention however, that the

entrance to Smoky Bay, between the shoals of St. Peter's and Eyre's

Islands, is dangerous, for with any swell on the sea breaks right across.

In the inlet, on the west side of Denial Bay, there is a salt water creek

with two fathoms of water; and adjoining some high sand-hills, among

which we found fresh water by digging. Our vessel being the first, I

believe, that ever entered Smoky Bay, on finding an island at its

southern end, I named it after that enterprising traveller Mr. Eyre. I

also found an island and reef not laid down by Flinders, to the southern

of St. Francis Islands. There is also an island 10 miles west of the

rocky group of Whidbey's Isles, and about 12 miles from Greenly's Isles.

The captain of a French whaler also informed me, that a sunken rock lays

6 miles N.W., off Point Sir Isaac, on which the sea breaks in heavy

weather.

"The desert country surrounding these bays has been sufficiently

explored, and so correctly described by Mr. Eyre, as not to require to be

mentioned. The absence of any rise that can be called a hill, from Mount

Greenly to Mount Barren, the eternal limestone cliffs, the scarcity of

water and grass, surely prove this coast to be the most miserable in the

world, whilst the harbours are as good as could be wished for, and it

must be owing to the deficiency of charts, that whalers do not frequent

these bays, for there are generally two or three French or American

vessels in the neighbourhood during the season. I found no bones or

carcases of whales in Streaky, Denial, or Smoky Bays, but the shores of

Fowler's and Coffin's Bays, I found strewed with their remains. In the

latter place, Captain Rossiter, of the Mississippi shewed me his chart,

and told me there was no shelter for a vessel on this side of the Bight,

except at Fowler's Bay, and that was indifferent. The great extent of

smooth water at Denial and Streaky Bays, and a well of water on St.

Peter's, dug by a sealer who lived on it many months, afford more

advantages for fishing, and more especially to a shore party, than are to

be found any where else in the Province.

"From the general flatness of the country, it may be presumed that its

character does not alter for a great distance inland. I observed nothing

in the formation of the island, differing from the mainland, and I may

mention that the rocks of the isles of St. Francis presented the same

appearance as the Murray Cliffs."

It will appear from the above, that Mr. Cannan did not proceed farther to

the westward than Fowler's Bay, and that he did not therefore prolong his

survey to the western limits of the Colony, by a distance of about five

leagues, since the 132 degrees meridian falls on that coast a little to

the westward of Cape Adieu, and between 12 and 15 leagues from the bottom

of the Great Australian Bight.

Although some of the bays and harbours I have described in running along

its coast, are not so good as might be desired, yet it is evident that,

as a maritime country, South Australia is particularly favoured, not only

in having anchorage of the safest description, but also in possessing two

or three known harbours, capable of containing ships in any number or any

size, and as safe and capacious as any in the world. Looking indeed at

Port Adelaide, one cannot but admire its appropriate and convenient

position. Had such a harbour not existed there, the produce of that

fertile portion of the Province would hardly have been available to the

inhabitants in the shape of exports, so difficult would it have been to

have found another harbour of equal security, or of equal size, for the

commercial wants of the settlers. Added to this, it has the double

advantage of being close to the capital, being so easy of access, and in

so central a position, as to be able to communicate with the neighbouring

colonies with the greatest ease.

It will be remembered that I stated in the former part of my work, that

the remarkable wall forming the Great Australian Bight, was thrown up

simultaneously with the great fossil bed of the Murray.

As the principal object of the Expedition into Central Australia was to

ascertain the past and present structure of the Continent, I have been

led to allude to the subject again, in consequence of two or three

remarks in Mr. Cannan's letter, which has been quoted above, bearing

strongly upon it, and corroborative of the hypothesis I have entertained

as proving a striking uniformity in the rock formation of those two

localities. To those remarks I would beg to call the attention of my

readers. They will be found at the commencement and termination of the

last paragraph.

CHAPTER II.

PLAINS OF ADELAIDE--BRIDGES OVER THE TORRENS--SITE OF

ADELAIDE--GOVERNMENT HOUSE BUILDINGS AND

CHURCHES--SCHOOLS--POLICE--ROADS--THE GAWLER--BAROSSA RANGE--THE MURRAY

BELT--MOORUNDI--NATIVES ON THE MURRAY--DISTANT STOCK STATIONS--MOUNT

GAMBIER DISTRICT--ITS RICHNESS--ASCENT TO MOUNT LOFTY--MOUNT BARKER

DISTRICT--SCENE IN HINDMARSH VALLEY--PROPORTION OF SOIL IN THE

PROVINCE--PASTORAL AND AGRICULTURAL--PORT LINCOLN--CLIMATE OF SOUTH

AUSTRALIA--RANGE OF THE THERMOMETER--SALUBRITY.

Having, in the preceding chapter, run along the coast of South Australia,

and noticed such parts as have been sufficiently examined to justify our

observations, it remains for me to give an account of its interior

features, of its climate, soil, mineral, and other sources of wealth, and

lastly of its fitness as a colony for the peculiar habits of an English

population.

The city of Adelaide, the capital of South Australia, stands on the

eastern shore of St. Vincent's Gulf, and is about six miles from the

coast. Any one landing either at the old or new port, and proceeding to

the capital for the first time, would perhaps be disappointed at the

description of country through which he would pass. It consists indeed of

extensive level plains, over the eastern extremity of which the Mount

Lofty Range is visible. They are bounded southwards by a line of trees,

marking the course of the river Torrens across them, but extend

northwards for many miles without any visible termination. Their monotony

however, is, at the present date, in some measure broken by belts of

wood, and the numerous cottages that have been built upon them, with

their adjoining corn-fields, have changed their aspect, and removed the

appearance of loneliness which they first exhibited. Still neither the

gloomy swamp over which the stranger has in the first instance to travel,

on landing at the Port--or the character of the plains themselves, are

calculated to raise his anticipations, as to the beauty or fertility of

the interior. The first town through which he will pass after leaving the

Port, is Albert Town, which has been laid out on the first available

ground near the swamp. When I left the colony in May last, several

tolerable buildings had been erected in Albert Town, but it was

nevertheless a wretched looking and straggling place, and will never

perhaps advance beyond its present state.

On his nearer approach to the capital the traveller will pass between the

villages of Boden and Hindmarsh, in both of which he will observe

numerous kilns of bricks. He will then enter on the Park Lands, by which

North and South Adelaide are separated from each other. On this land the

scene at once changes, and he will find himself riding through an open

forest, shading rich, alluvial, and grassy flats; and, strictly speaking,

will then be traversing the Valley of the Torrens. In May, 1847, there

were four bridges over that little river. The Company's bridge a little

above the city. The Frome bridge, a light wooden structure, built by the

sappers and miners, under the direction of Captain Frome, the

Surveyor-General, after whom it was called. The City bridge, constructed

of stone, but then incomplete, and a rude wooden bridge between Adelaide

and Hindmarsh, erected by an innkeeper, with a view of drawing the

traffic from the Port past his door. The City bridge, which was

undertaken by contract, promised to grace the approach to Adelaide, and

was intended to be the principal bridge to connect the north and south

portions of the city, as well as to form the chief line to the Port and

to the north. The occurrence of an unusual flood, however, in the latter

part of the year 1847 deprived the good citizens of Adelaide of these

necessary means of communication with the country on the right bank of

the Torrens, by the injury it did to them. The Company's bridge suffered

less than any other, but was so shaken as to be impassable for several

days. Aware, as I am, of the general character of the Australian streams,

and seeing no reason why the Torrens should differ from others, taking

into consideration, too, the reports of the natives as to the height to

which the river had been known to rise in former years, and the fact that

no rain had fallen since the establishment of the Colony to cause any

very great or sudden flood, it appeared to me, that the place selected

for the City bridge was too low. Ordinary floods so completely change the

channel of the river, and make such devastation in its bed, that it is

hardly to be recognised when the water subsides, so that unless the banks

are high, and the soil of which they may be composed stiff enough to

resist the impetuosity of the stream, I fear no bridge across the Torrens

will be permanently safe.

The position and ground chosen by the first Surveyor-General of South

Australia, as the site of its future capital is a remarkable instance of

the quick intelligence of that officer. For although he had but little

time to make his selection, a more intimate knowledge of the coast has

proved that no more eligible point could have been found. Fault has, I am

aware, been found with Colonel Light in this matter, but without just

grounds, I think, for in no other locality could the same quantity of

water have been found, or the same facility offered for the construction

of those reservoirs and other works so necessary to the health and

comfort of a large metropolis. A principal objection raised to the

situation of Adelaide is its distance from the Port, but that we must

remember is a disadvantage common to many other large and mercantile

cities. The Surveyor-General seems to have been fully aware of the

responsible duty that devolved upon him, and to have acted with great

judgment. Port Lincoln, indeed, is a splendid harbour, one with which

Port Adelaide, as far as size goes, cannot be compared, but having said

this nothing farther can be advanced in its favour, for it is not only

deficient in its supply of water, but the contiguous country is far from

rich, whereas Adelaide is backed by one of undoubted fertility.

Established where it is, the city of Adelaide stands on the summit of the

first elevated ground, between the coast and the mountain ranges.

It is separated, as the reader will have learnt, by the valley of the

Torrens, and occupies the northern and southern slopes and brows of the

hills on either side. The view to the westward from the more elevated

parts of the city commands the whole of the plains of Adelaide, and St.

Vincent's Gulf; to the eastward, it extends over the rich and dark wooded

valley of the river, the lighter wooded country at the base of the Mount

Lofty Range, and the peaks and elevations of that beautiful mountain

chain.

South Adelaide is on flat ground and twice the size of the northern part

of the town. It has also been more extensively built upon, and is the

established commercial division of the city. The Government House and all

the public buildings and offices are in South Adelaide, and the streets

in the vicinity of the North Terrace, have assumed a regularity and

uniformity greater than any street in North Adelaide. Hindley and Rundle

streets, indeed, would do no discredit to any secondary town in England.

Every shop and store that is now built is of a substantial and ornamental

character, and those general improvements are being made which are the

best proofs of increasing prosperity and opulence.

There is scarcely any article of European produce that cannot be obtained

in Adelaide, at a very little advance on home prices, nor is it

necessary, or indeed advisable that Emigrants should overload themselves

in going out to any of the Australian Colonies. Experience, the best

monitor, leads me to give this advice, which, however, I am bound to say,

I did not adopt when I went out to New South Wales; but the consequence

was, that I purchased a great many things with which I could have

dispensed, and that I should have found the money they cost much more

useful than they proved.

King William Street divides Hindley from Rundle Street, and is

immediately opposite to the gate of Government House, which is built on a

portion of the Park lands, and is like a country gentleman's house in

England. It stands in an enclosure of about eight or ten acres; the

grounds are neatly kept, and there is a shrubbery rapidly growing up

around the House.

The Public Offices are at the corner of King William Street and Victoria

Square, facing into the latter. The building is somewhat low, but a

creditable edifice, to appearance at all events, although not large

enough for the wants of the public service.

I am not aware that there is any other public building worthy of

particular notice, if I except the gaol, which is a substantial erection

occupying the north-west angle of the Park land, but is too low in its

situation to be seen to advantage at any distance. Like Government House,

it was built with a view to future addition, but fortunately for the

colony, Government House is the first which seems to call for completion.

The number of Episcopalian Churches in Adelaide is limited to two,

Trinity Church and St. John's. The former was originally built of wood,

and may be said to be coeval with the colony itself. It has of late

however been wholly built of stone, and under the active and praiseworthy

exertions of Mr. Farrell, the colonial chaplain, an excellent and

commodious school-room has been attached to it.

Trinity Church stands on the North Terrace, and is a prominent object as

you ascend from the Park lands. St. John's is situated on the East

Terrace at a greater distance, but it has a commanding view of the Mount

Lofty Range, and the intervening plains. Perhaps considering that the

city has not extended much in the direction of East Terrace, it may be a

little too far for public convenience, but this is a question that admits

of doubt. It is a neat and unostentatious brick building, at which the

Rev. Mr. Woodcock performs service, whose exertions amongst the natives

in the West Indies have stamped him both as a christian and a

philanthropist. The two churches are calculated to hold about 1000

sittings, and the average attendance is about 900.

It may appear to the reader that the number of churches in Adelaide,

where there is a population of between 8000 and 10,000 souls, is not

sufficient, as is the case. Ere this however, a third church, to be

called "Christ's Church," will have been erected in North Adelaide, where

such a place of worship was much required. 500 pounds had been subscribed

for the purpose in December last, and it was confidently anticipated that

the further contributions of the colonists would enable the committee to

commence and finish it. The arrival of the Bishop on the 24th of the

above month, of which accounts have been received had given great

satisfaction, and his Lordship was to begin his useful ministry on the

following day (Christmas Day), by preaching at Trinity Church.

However few the Episcopalian churches in the capital of South Australia,

we cannot accuse the Dissenters of a similar want of places of public

worship, of which there are 9, the whole number throughout the province

being 31; whilst the number of churches is 6. The Congregational chapels

are calculated to accomodate 4700 communicants, the average attendance

being about 2300, and are, generally speaking, good looking and

ornamental buildings, and do no discredit to those who superintended

their erection, and approved the places.

There is a Roman Catholic Bishop of South Australia, but he had, during

the latter period of my residence in the province, been absent in Europe.

The Catholic Church stands on the West Terrace, and is, perhaps, in one

of the most healthy situations that could have been chosen. There is an

excellent school attached to the church, which is equally open to all

denominations of Christians, and is, I have understood, more numerously

attended than any other in the capital. The total number of

Sunday-schools in the province, in 1841, was 26, at which 617 boys and

582 girls attended. The average number of Sunday and other schools in

1845 was 55, at which 780 males and 670 female children attended.