Departure from Gibraltar to Mogador.--The Straits.--Genoese Sailors.--
Trade-wind Hurricanes en the Atlantic Coast of Morocco.--Difficulties of
entering the Port of Mogador.--Bad provisioning of Foreign
Merchantmen.--The present Representative of the once far-famed and
dreaded Rovers.--Disembarkation at Mogador.--Mr. Phillips, Captain of
the Port--Rumours amongst the People about my Mission.--Visit to the
Cemeteries.--Maroquine Wreckers.--Health of the inhabitants of
Mogador.--Moorish Cavaliers "playing at powder" composed of the ancient
Nuraidians.--The Barb.--The Life Guards of the Moorish Emperor.--Martial
character of the Negro.--Some account of the Black Corps of the
Shereefs.--Orthodoxy of the Shereefs, and illustrative anecdotes of the
various Emperors.
On leaving the Straits (commonly called "The Gut,") a noble sight
presented itself--a fleet of some hundred merchantmen, all smacking
about before the rising wind, crowding every sail, lest it should change
ere they got clear of the obstructive straits. Many weeks had they been
detained by the westerly gales, and our vessel amongst the rest. I felt
the poignant misery of "waiting for the wind." I know nothing so
wearisome when all things are made ready. It is worse than hope
deferred, which sickens and saddens the heart.
I have lately seen some newspaper reports, that government is preparing
a couple of steam-tugs, to be placed at the mouth of the straits, to tow
ships in and out. We may trust it will be done. But if government do it
not, I am sure it would answer the purpose of a private company, and I
have no doubt such speculation will soon be taken up. Vessels freighted
with perishable cargoes are often obliged to wait weeks, nay months, at
the mouth of the Straits, to the great injury of commerce. In our days
of steam and rapid communication, this cannot be tolerated. [13]
After a voyage of four days, we found ourselves off the coast of
Mogador. The wind had been pretty good, but we had suffered some delay
from a south wind, which headed us for a short time. We prayed for a
westerly breeze, of which we soon got enough from west and north-west.
The first twelve hours it came gently on, but gradually increased till
it blew a gale. The captain was suddenly called up in the night, as
though the ship was going to sink, or could sink, whilst she was running
as fast as we would let her before the wind. But the real danger lay in
missing the coast of Mogador, or not being able to get within its port
from the violence of the breakers near the shore. Our vessel was a small
Genoese brig; and, though the Genoese are the best sailors in the
Mediterranean--even superior to the Greeks, who rank next--our captain
and his crew began to quake. At daylight, the coast-line loomed before
us, immersed in fog, and two hours after, the tall minaret of the great
mosque of Mogador, shooting erect, a dull lofty pyramid, stood over the
thick haze lying on the lower part of the coast.
This phenomenon of the higher objects and mountains being visible over a
dense fog on the shore, is frequent on this side of the Atlantic. Wind
also prevails here. It scarcely ever rains, but wind the people have
nine months out of the twelve. It is a species of trade-wind, which
commences at the Straits, or the coasts of Spain and Portugal, and
sweeps down north-west with fury, making the entire coast of Morocco a
mountain-barrier of breakers, increasing in its course, and extending as
far as Wadnoun, Cape Bajdor, Cape Blanco, even to the Senegal. It does
not, however, extend far out at sea, being chiefly confined to the coast
range. Our alarm now was lest we should get within the clutches of this
fell swoop, for the port once past, it would have required us weeks to
bear up again, whilst this wind lasted.
The Atlantic coast of Morocco is an indented or waving line, and there
are only two or three ports deserving the name of harbours--harbours of
refuge from these storms. Unlike the western coast of Ireland, so finely
indented by the Atlantic wave, this portion of the Morocco coast is
rounded off by the ocean.
Our excitement was great. The capitano began yelping like a cowardly
school-boy, who has been well punched by a lesser and more courageous
antagonist. Immediately I got on deck, I produced an English book, which
mentioned the port of Mogador as a "good" port.
"Per Dio Santo!" exclaimed our capitano; "yes, for the English it _is_ a
good port--you dare devils at sea--for them it _is_ a good port. The
open sea, with a gale of wind, is a good port for the _maladetti_
English."
Irritated at this extreme politeness to our gallant tars, who have so
long "braved the battle and the breeze," I did not trouble farther the
dauntless Genoese, who certainly was not destined to become a Columbus.
Now the men began to snivel and yelp, following the example of their
commander. "We won't go into the port, Santa Virgine! We won't go in to
be shivered to pieces on the rocks." At this moment our experienced
capitano fancied we had got into shoal-water; the surf was seen running
in foaming circles, as if in a whirlpool. Now, indeed, our capitano did
yelp; now did the crew yelp, invoking all the saints of the Roman
calendar, instead of attending to the ship. [14] Here was a scene of
indescribable confusion. Our ship was suddenly put round and back.
My fellow passengers, a couple of Jews from Gibraltar, began swearing at
the capitano and his brave men. One of them, whilst cursing, thought it
just as well, at the same time, to call upon Father Abraham. Our little
brig pitched her bows two or three times under water like a storm-bird,
and did _not_ ground. It was seen to be a false alarm. The capitano now
took courage on seeing all the flags flying over the fortifications, it
being Friday, the Mahometan Sabbath. The silly fellow had heard, that
the port authorities always hauled down their colours, when the entrance
to the harbour was unsafe by reason of bad weather. Seeing the colours,
he imagined all was right.
There are two entrances to the port of Mogador; one from the south,
which is quite open; the other from the north-west, which is only a
narrow passage, with scarcely room to admit a ship-of-the-line. The
'Suffren,' in which the Prince de Joinville commanded the bombardment of
the town, stood right over this entrance, on the northern channel,
having south-east the Isle of Mogador, and north-west the coast of the
Continent. The Prince took up a bold and critical position, exposed to
violent currents, to grounding on a rocky bottom, and to many other
serious accidents. [15]
[Illustration]
As we neared this difficult entrance, we were all in a state of the most
feverish excitement, expecting, such was the fury of the breakers, to be
thrown on the rock on either side. Thus, it was a veritable Scylla and
Charybdis. A man from the rigging descried several small vessels moored
snugly behind the isle. We ventured in with breathless agitation. A man
from one of the fortifications, guessing or seeing, I suppose, our
timidity and bad seamenship, cried out at the top of his lungs, "Salvo!"
which being interpreted, meant, "The entrance is safe."
But this was not enough; we were to have another trial of patience. The
foolish captain--to terrify us to the last--had to cast his anchor, as a
matter of course; and imagine, dear reader, our alarm, our terror, when
we heard him scream out, "The chain is snapped!" We were now to be
driven out southwards by the fury of the wind, which had become a
hurricane, no very agreeable prospect! Happily, also this was a false
alarm. The capitano then came up to me, to shake hands, apologize, and
present congratulations on our safe harbouring. The perspiration of
fever and a heated brain was coursing down his cheeks. The capitano lit
an extra candle before the picture of the Virgin below, and observed to
me, whilst the men were saying their prayers of gratitude for
deliverance, "Per un miraculo della santissima Vergina; noi sciamo
salvati!"--(we are saved by a miracle of the Most Holy Virgin!) which,
of course, I did not or could not dispute, allowing, as I do, all men in
such circumstances, to indulge freely in their peculiar faith, so long
as it does not interfere with me or mine.
It is well that our merchant-vessels have never been reduced to the
condition of Genoese craft, or been manned by such chicken-hearted
crews. I believe the pusillanimity of the latter is traceable, in a
great measure, to the miserable way in which the poor fellows are fed.
These Genoese had no meat whilst I was with them. I sailed once in a
Neapolitan vessel, a whole month, during which time the crew lived on
horse-beans, coarse maccaroni, Sardinian fish, mouldy biscuit, and
griping black wine. Meat they had none. How is it possible for men thus
fed, to fight and wrestle with the billows and terrors of the deep?
We had no ordinary task to get on shore; the ocean was without, but a
sea was within port. The wind increased with such fury, that we
abandoned for the day the idea of landing. We had, however, specie on
board, which it was necessary forthwith to land. Mr. Philips, captain of
the port, and a merchant's clerk, therefore, came alongside with great
difficulty in a Moorish boat, to take on shore the specie; and in it I
embarked. This said barque was the miserable but apt representation of
the by-gone formidable Maroquine navy, which, not many centuries ago,
pushed its audacity to such lengths, that the "rovers of Salee" cruised
off the English coast, and defied the British fleets. Now the whole
naval force of the once-dreaded piratic states of Barbary can hardly
boast of two or three badly-manned brigs or frigates. As to Morocco, the
Emperor has not a single captain who can conduct a vessel from Mogador
to Gibraltar.
The most skilful _rais_ his ports can furnish made an attempt lately,
and was blown up and down for months on the coasts of Spain and
Portugal, being at last driven into the Straits by almost miraculous
interposition.
What was this Moorish boat in which I went on shore? A mere long shell
of bad planks, and scarcely more ship-shape than the trunk of a tree
hollowed into a canoe, leakily put together. It was filled with dirty,
ragged, half-naked sailors, whose seamanship did not extend beyond
coming and going from vessels lying in this little port. Each of these
Mogadorian port sailors had a bit of straight pole for an oar; the way
in which they rowed was equally characteristic. Struggling against wind
and current with their Moorish rais at the helm, encouraging their
labours by crying out first one thing, then another, as his fancy
dictated, the crew repeated in chorus all he said:--"Khobsah!" (a loaf)
cried the rais.
All the men echoed "Khobsah."
"A loaf you shall have when you return!" cried the rais.
"A loaf we shall have when we return!" cried the men.
"Pull, pull; God hears and sees you!" cried the rais.
"We pull, we pull; God hears and sees us!" cried the men.
"Sweetmeats, sweetmeats, by G--; sweetmeats by G--you shall have, only
pull away!" swore the rais.
"Sweetmeats we shall have, thank God! sweetmeats we shall have, thank
God!" roared the men, all screaming and bawling. In this unique style,
after struggling three hours to get three miles over the port, we
landed, all of us completely exhausted and drowned in spray.
It is usual for Moors, particularly negroes, to sing certain choruses,
and thus encourage one another in their work. What, however, is
remarkable, these choruses are mostly on sacred subjects, being
frequently the formula of their confession, "There is no God, but one
God, and Mahomet is his Prophet," &c. These clownish tars were deeply
coloured, and some quite black. I found, in fact, the greatest part of
the Moorish population of Mogador coloured persons. We may here easily
trace the origin of the epithet "Black-a-Moor," and we are not so
surprised that Shakspeare made his Moor black; indeed, the present
Emperor, Muley Abd Errahman, is of very dark complexion, though his
features are not at all of the negro cast. But he has sons quite black,
and with negro features, who, of course, are the children of negresses.
One of these, is Governor of Rabat. In no country is the colour of the
human skin so little thought of. This is a very important matter in the
question of abolition. There is no objection to the skin and features of
the negro; it is only the luxury of having slaves, or their usefulness
for heavy work, which weighs in the scale against abolition.
As soon as we landed, we visited the lieutenant-governor, who
congratulated us on not being carried down to the Canary Islands. Then
his Excellency asked, in due studied form:
"Where do you come from?"
_Traveller_.--"Gibraltar."
_His Excellency_.--"Where are you going?"
_Traveller_.--"To see the Sultan, Muley Abd Errahman."
_His Excellency_.--"What's your business?"
_Traveller_.--"I will let your Excellency know to-morrow."
I then proceeded to the house of Mr. Phillips, where I took up my
quarters. Mr. Willshire, our vice-consul, was absent, having gone up to
Morocco with all the principal merchants of Mogador, to pay a visit to
the Emperor.
The port of Mogador had to-day a most wild and desolate appearance,
which was rendered still more dreary and hideous by a dark tempest
sweeping over it. On the shore, there was no appearance of life, much
less of trade and shipping. All had abandoned it, save a guard, who lay
stretched at the gate of the waterport, like a grim watch-dog. From this
place, we proceeded to the merchants' quarter of the town, which was
solitary and immersed in profound gloom. Altogether, my first
impressions of Mogador were most unfavourable, I went to bed and dreamt
of winds and seas, and struggled with tempests the greater part of the
night. Then I was shipwrecked off the Canaries; thrown on the coast of
Wadnoun, and made a slave by the wild Arabs wandering in the Desert--I
awoke.
Mr. Phillips, mine host, soon became my right-hand man. His
extraordinary character, and the adventures of his life are worth a
brief notice. Phillips said he was descended from those York Jews, who,
on refusing to pay a contribution levied on them by one of our most
Christian kings, had a tooth drawn out every morning (without the aid of
chloroform), until they satisfied the cruel avarice of the tyrant. In
person, Phillips was a smart old gentleman, with the ordinary lineaments
of his race stamped on his countenance. The greater part of his life has
been spent in South America, where he attained the honours of
aide-de-camp to Bolivar. In those sanguinary revolutions, heaving with
the birth of the young republic, he had often been shut up in the
capilla to be shot, and was rescued always by the Jesuit fathers, who
pitied and saved the poor Jew, on his expressing himself favourable to
Christianity. Returning to England, after twenty years' absence, his
mother did not fully recognize him, until he one day got up and admired,
with youthful ardour, a china figure on the chimney-piece, which had
been his toy in his boyhood. On the occurrence of this little domestic
incident, the mother passionately embraced her lost prodigal, once dead,
but now "alive again." Phillips came to Mogador on a military
speculation, and offered to take the command of the Emperor's cavalry
against all his enemies.
This audacity of a Jew filled the Moor with alarm. "How could a Jew, who
was not a devil, propose such an insult to the Commander of the
Faithful, as to presume to take the charge of his invincible warriors!"
Nevertheless, the little fellow weathered the storm, and got appointed
"captain of the port of Mogador," with the liberal salary of about
thirty shillings per month; but this did not prevent our aide-de-camp,
now metamorphosed into a sea captain, from wearing _an admiral's_
uniform, which he obtained in a curious way on a visit to England. He
met in the streets of London with an acquaintance, who pretended to
patronize him. The gentleman jokingly said, "Well, Phillips, I must give
you an uniform, since you are appointed captain of the port of Mogador."
The said gentleman received, a few months afterwards, when his quondam
protégé was safe with his uniform strutting about Mogador, to the
amazement of the Moors, and the delight of his co-religionists, a bill
of thirty pounds or so, charged for "a suit of admiral's uniform for Mr.
Phillips, captain of the port of Mogador;" and found that a joke
sometimes has a serious termination.
Phillips, on his first arrival in this country, entered into a
diplomatic contest with the Moorish authorities, demanding the
privileges of a native British-born Jew, and he determined to ride a
horse, in order to vindicate the rights of British Jews, before the
awful presence of the Shereefian Court! About this business, the
Consul-general Hay is said to have written eleven long, and Mr.
Willshire about twenty-one short and pithy despatches, but the affair
ended in smoke. Phillips, with great magnanimity and self-denial,
consented to relinquish the privilege, on the prayer of his brethren,
natives of Mogador, who were very naturally afraid, lest the incensed
Emperor might visit on them what he durst not inflict on the
British-born Jew.
Of the achievements of Phillips in the way of science (for he assures he
is born to the high destiny of enlightening both barbarians and
civilized nations) I take the liberty, with his permission, of
mentioning one. Phillips brought here a pair of horse-shoes belonging to
a drayhorse of the firm of Truman, Hanbury, Buxton, and Co., to astonish
the Moors by their size, who are great connoisseurs of horse-flesh. The
Moors protested their unbelief, and swore it was a lie,--"such shoes
never shod a horse." Phillips then got a skeleton of a head from
England. This they also scouted as an imposition, alleging that Phillips
had got it purposely made to deceive them. "Although they believed in
the Prophet, whom they never saw, they were still not such fools as to
believe in everything which an Infidel might bring to their country."
Phillips now gave up, in despair, the attempt to propagate science among
the Moors.
Our ancient aide-de-camp of Bolivar is a liberal English Jew, and boasts
that, on Christmas-day, he always has his roast-beef and plum-pudding. I
supped with him often on a sucking-pig, for the Christians breed pigs in
this place, to the horror of pious Mussulmen. This amusing adventurer
subsequently left Mogador and went to Lisbon, where he purposed writing
a memorial to the Archbishop of Canterbury, containing the plan, of a
New Unitarian system of religion, by which the Jews might be brought
within the pale of the Christian Church!
For some time I felt the effects of my sea voyage; my apartment rocked
in my brain. People speculated about the objects of my mission; the most
absurd rumours were afloat. "The Christian has come to settle the
affairs of Mr. Darman, whom the Emperor killed," some said. Others
remarked, "The Christian has come to buy all the slaves of the country,
in order to liberate them." The lieutenant-governor sent for Phillips,
to know what I came for, who I was, and how I passed my time? Phillips
told him all about my mission, and that I was a great taleb. When
Phillips mentioned to the governor, that Great Britain had paid a
hundred millions of dollars for the liberation of slaves belonging to
Englishmen, his Excellency, struck with astonishment, exclaimed, "The
English Sultan is inspired by God!"
[Illustration.]
I visited the burying-place of Christians, situate on the north-side of
the town by the sea-shore. A fine tomb was erected here to the memory of
Mrs. Willshire's father. The ignorant country people coming to Mogador
stopped to repeat prayers before it, believing it the tomb of some
favourite saint. The government, hearing of this idolatry to a
Christian, begged Mr. Willshire to have the tomb covered with cement.
When this was done, so perverse are these people, that they partially
divested it of covering, and chipped off pieces of marble for their
women, who ground them into powder, and dusted their faces with it to
make them fair. Every six months it is necessary to replaster the tomb.
This cemetery is the most desolate place the mind of man can conceive.
There is no green turf here to rest lightly on the bosom of the dead! No
tree, no cypress of mourning; no shade or shelter for those who seek to
indulge in grief. All is a sandy desolation, swept by the wild winds of
the solitary shore of the ocean.
[Illustration]
Farther on, is the Moorish cemetery, which I passed through. What a
spectacle of human corruption! Here, indeed, we may learn to despise
this world's poor renown, and cease tormenting ourselves with vain and
godless pursuits. It was then sunset, the moon had risen far up on the
fading brow of the departing day, casting pale lights and fearful
shadows over this house of the dead. It was time to return, or the gates
of the city would shut me out amidst the wreck of poor human dust and
bones. I saw, moving in the doubtful shadows of approaching night, the
grave-digging hyaena!
It is an ill wind that blows nobody good. The wreckers of this coast
boldly assert that a shipwreck is a blessing (_berkah_), sent to them by
Providence. The port authorities have even the impudence to declare,
that to erect lighthouses at the mouth of the ports would be thwarting
the decrees of Divine Providence! In spite of all this, however, at the
urgent request of Mr. Willshire, when, on one occasion, the weather was
very bad, the governor of Mogador stationed guards on various parts of
the coast to preserve the lives and property of shipwrecked vessels. But
I do not think I have heard worse cases of Moorish wreckers, than those
which have happened not very many years ago on the French and English
coasts. Some of my readers will recollect the case of an Indiaman
wrecked off the coast of France, when poor ladies in a state of
suspended animation, had their fingers cut off to get possession of
their diamond-rings. During my stay at Mogador, a courier arrived from
Sous, bringing the news of some Christians being wrecked off the coast,
A Jew had purchased one poor fellow from the Arabs for two camels. Two
others were dead, their bodies cast upon the inhospitable beach by the
Atlantic surge, where they lay unburied, to be mangled by the wild
tribes, or to feed the hungry hyaena.
Some of the merchants came hither from the capital; amongst the rest,
Mr. and Mrs. Elton, they, as well as others, brought a favourable
account of the Emperor and his ministers, and lauded very much the
commercial policy of the governor of Mogador. Moderation, it is said, is
the characteristic of the court's proceedings towards the merchants.
Trade was not very brisk, it being the rainy season, when the Arabs are
occupied with sowing the ground; the busy time is from September to
January.
The produce sold at that time was simply that which is left of the past
season, having been kept back with the object of getting a better price
for it. Gum is brought in great quantities for exportation. An immense
quantity of sugar is imported, a third of which is loaf beet-root sugar
brought from Marseilles.
Mr. Phillips came to me, to beg ten thousand pardons for having only
fowls for dinner. One morning two bullocks were killed by the Jews, but
not "according to the Law," and the greater part of the Jews that day
would have to go without meat. On these occasions, the Jews sell their
meat to the Moors and Christians at a reduced price. Phillips observed,
"I am obliged to eat meat according to the Law, or I should have no
peace of my life."
A good many people were affected by colds, but the climate of Mogador is
reckoned very good. All the year round there is not much variation; N.W.
and N.E. winds bring cold in winter, and cool refreshing breezes in
summer. There was not a single medical man in Mogador, although there
were some fifty Europeans, including Jews. Some years ago a clever young
man was practising here. For one year, each European paid his share of
salary; but alas! those whom God blessed with good health, refused to
pay their quota to the support of a physician for their sickly
neighbours, consequently, every European's life was in the greatest
danger, should a serious accident occur to them. With regard to money,
they would prefer a broken leg all their life time to paying five pounds
to have it set. The consuls of Tangier subscribe for a resident
physician.
[Illustration.]
One afternoon, I went to see the Moorish cavalry "playing at powder,"
(Lab Elbaroud) being a stirring and novel scene. A troop of these
haughty cavaliers assembled with their chiefs almost daily on the playa,
or parade. Then they divided themselves into parties of twenty or
thirty; proceeding with their manoeuvres, the cavaliers at first advance
slowly in a single line, then canter, and then gallop, spurring on the
horse to its last gasp, meantime standing up erect on their
shovel-stirrups, and turning from one side to the other; looking round
with an air of defiance, they fire off their matchlocks, throw
themselves into various dexterous attitudes, sometimes letting fall the
bridle. The pieces being discharged, the horses instantaneously stop.
The most difficult lesson a barb learns, is to halt suddenly in mid
career of a full gallop. To discharge his matchlock, standing on the
stirrups while the horse is in full gallop, is the great lesson of
perfection of the Maroquine soldiery. The cavaliers now wheel out of the
way for the next file, returning reloading, and taking their places to
gallop off and fire again. Crowds of people attend these equestrian
exhibitions, of which they are passionately fond. They squat round the
parade in double or treble rows, muffled up within their bournouses, in
mute admiration. Occasionally women are present, but females here join
in very few out-door amusements. When a whole troop of cavaliers are
thus manoeuvering, galloping at the utmost stretch of the horses'
muscles, the men screaming and hallowing "hah! hah! hah!" the dust and
sand rising in clouds before the foaming fiery barb, with the deafening
noise and confusion of a simultaneous discharge of firelocks, the
picture represents in vivid colours what might be conceived of the wild
Nubian cavalry of ancient Africa. [16] Today there was a mishap; several
cavaliers did not keep up the line. The chief leading the troops, cried
out in a rage, and with the voice of a senator, "Fools! madmen! are you
children, or are ye men?" Christians or Jews standing too near, are
frequently pushed back with violence; and we were told "not to stand in
the way of Mussulmen."
These cavaliers are sometimes called _spahis_; they are composed of
Moors, Arabs, Berbers, and all the native races in Morocco. They are
usually plainly dressed, but, beneath the bournouse, many of them wear
the Moorish dress, embroidered in the richest style. Some of the horses
are magnificently caparisoned in superb harness, worked in silk and
gold. Fine harness is one of the luxuries of North Africa, and is still
much used, even in Tunis and Tripoli, where the new system of European
military dress and tactics has been introduced. The horse is the sacred
animal of Morocco, as well as the safeguard of the empire. The Sultan
has no other military defence, except the natural difficulties of the
country, or the hatred of his people to strangers. He does not permit
the exportation of horses, nor of barley, on which they are often fed.
[17]
But the defeat of the Emperor's eldest son, Sidi Mahomed, at the Battle
of Isly, who commanded upwards of forty thousand of these cavaliers, has
thrown a shade over the ancient celebrity of this Moorish corps, and
these proud horsemen have since become discouraged. On that fatal day,
however, none of the black bodyguard of the Emperor was brought into
action. These muster some thirty thousand strong. This corps, or the
Abeed-Sidi-Bokhari, [18] are soldiers who possess the most cool and
undaunted courage; retreat with them is never thought of. Unlike the
Janissaries of old, their sole ambition is to _obey_, and not to _rule_
their sovereign. This fidelity to the Shereefs remains unshaken through
all the shocks of the empire, and to the person of the Emperor they are
completely devoted. In a country like Morocco, of widely distinct races
and hostile tribes, all naturally detesting each other, the Emperor
finds in them his only safety. I cannot withhold the remark, that this
body-guard places before us the character of the negro in a very
favourable light. He is at once brave and faithful, the two essential
ingredients in the formation and development of heroic natures.
It will, I trust, not be deemed out of place to consider for a moment
the warlike propensities and qualities of the negro. Every European who
has penetrated Africa, confesses to the bellicose disposition of the
negro, having seen him engaged with others in perpetual conflict. The
choice and retention of a body-guard of Blacks by the Moorish Emperor,
also triumphantly prove the martial nature of the negro race. But the
negro has signally displayed the military qualities of coolness and
courage in many instances, two or three of which I shall here take the
liberty of mentioning, in connexion with the affairs of Algeria.
Mr. Lord relates, on the authority of the French, that, when the
invading army invested Fort de l'Empereur, and had silenced all its
guns, the Dey ordered the Turkish General to retreat to the Kasbah, and
leave three negroes to blow up the fort. It seemed, therefore,
abandoned, but two red flags floated still on its outward line of
defence, and a third on the angle towards the city. The French continued
all their efforts towards effecting a practicable breach. Three negroes
were now seen calmly walking on the ramparts, and from time to time
looking over as if examining the progress of the breach. One of them,
struck by a cannonball, fell; and the others, as if to avenge his death,
ran to a cannon, pointed it, and fired three shots. At the third, the
gun turned over, and they were unable to replace it. They tried another,
and as they were in the act of raising it, a shot swept the legs from
under one of them. The remaining negro gazed for a moment on his
comrade, drew him a little aside, left him, and once more examined the
breach. He then snatched one of the flags, and retired to the interior
of the tower. In a few minutes, he re-appeared, took a second flag and
descended. The French continued their cannonade, and the breach appeared
almost practicable, when suddenly they were astounded by a terrific
explosion, which shook the whole ground as with an earthquake. An
immense column of smoke, mixed with streaks of flames, burst from the
centre of the fortress; masses of solid masonry were hurled into the air
to an amazing height, while cannon, stones, timbers, projectiles, and
dead bodies were scattered in every direction. What was all this? The
negro had done his duty--the fort was blown up!
In a skirmish near Mascara, one of Abd-el-Kader's negro soldiers killed
two Frenchmen with his own hand. The Emir, who was an eye-witness of his
bravery, rewarded him on the field of battle by presenting him with his
own sword and the Cross of the Crescent, the only military order in the
service, and which is never awarded except fur a very distinguished
action. Colonel Scott says the black was presented to him, and seemed as
proud of the honour conferred on him as if he had been made a K.G.C.B.
In the strifes and disputes for succession that have characterized the
history of the Barbary princes, and reddened their annals with blood,
nothing has been more remarkable than the fidelity of the negroes to
their respective masters, and the bravery with which they have defended
them to the last hour of their reign or existence. When all his
partisans have deserted a pretender, when the soldiers of the successful
competitor to the throne have been in the act of pouncing upon the
fallen or falling prince, a handful of brave followers has rushed to the
rescue, and surrounded the person of their beloved leader, pouring out
their life-blood in his defence--and these men were negroes! To use a
vulgar metaphor, the negro will defend his master with the savage
courage and tenacity of a bull-dog. And this is the principal reason
which has induced the despotic princes of North Africa to cherish the
negroes, of whom they have encouraged a continual supply from the
interior.
The history of this Imperial Guard of Negroes is interesting, as showing
the inconveniences as well as the advantage of such a corps, for these
troops have not been always so well conducted as they are at present. At
one time, the Shereefs claimed a species of sovereignty over the city of
Timbuctbo and the adjacent countries. In the year 1727, Muley Ismail
determined to re-people his wasted districts by a colony of negroes. His
secret object was, however, to form a body guard to keep his own people
in check, a sort of black Swiss regiment, so alike is the policy of all
tyrants. In a few years, these troops exceeded 100,000 men. Finding
their numbers so great, and their services so much needed by the Sultan,
they became exigeant and rapacious, dictating to their royal master.
Muley Abdallah was deposed six times by them. Finding their yoke
intolerable, the Sultan decimated them by sending them to fight in the
mountains. Others were disbanded for the same reasons by Sidi Mohammed.
Still, the effect of this new colonization was beneficially experienced
throughout the country. The Moors taking the black women as concubines,
a mixed race of industrious people sprang up, and gave an impetus to the
empire. It is questionable, however, if North Africa could he colonized
by negroes. By mixing with the Caucasian race, this experiment partly
succeeded. But in general, North Africa is too bleak and uncongenial for
the negroes' nature during winter. The negro race does not increase of
itself on this coast. Their present number is kept up by a continual
supply of slaves. When this is stopped, coloured people will begin
gradually to disappear.
It is unnecessary to tell my readers that the Shereefs are very
sensitive on matters of religion; but an anecdote or two may amuse them.
A French writer expatiating in true Gallic style, calls Morocco the
"arrière-garde en Afrique of Islamism," and "une de ses armées de
réserve." Indeed, the coasts and cities of Morocco are inundated with
saints of every description and degree of sanctity. Morocco, in fact, is
not only the _classic_ land of Marabouts, but their home and haunt, and
sphere of agitation. There are ten thousand Abd-el-Kaders and Bou Mazas
all disputing authority with the High Priest, who sits on the green
throne of the Shereefs. Sometimes they assume the character of
demagogues, and inveigh against the rapacity and corruption of the court
and government. At others they appear as prophets, prophets of ill, by
preaching boldly the Holy war.
The French in Africa now furnish them with an everlasting theme of
denunciation. From Morocco they travel eastwards, filling the Sahara and
the Atlas with the odours of their holy reputation. So that religious
light, like that of civilization, is now moving from the
west--eastwards, instead of, as in times past, from the east--eastwards.
The Maroquine Mahometans may be cited as a case in point. They find too
frequently only the form of religion in the east, as we do in the
eastern churches. They are beginning to assault Mecca as we have
assaulted Jerusalem.
Now for an anecdote or two illustrative of the high state of orthodoxy
professed by the Shereefs. Some time ago, a number of handkerchiefs were
brought, or rather smuggled into Mogador, having printed upon them
passages from the Koran. One of them got into the hands of the Emperor,
who thinking the Christians were ridiculing the Sacred Book, ordered
instanter all the cities of the coast to be searched to discover the
offender who introduced them. Happily for the merchant he was not found
out. His Highness commanded that all the handkerchiefs which were
collected should be destroyed. When Mr. Davidson was at Morocco, he
prescribed some Seidlitz water for the use of the Sultan, and placed on
the sides of two bottles, containing the beverage, Arabic verses from
the Koran. The Sultan was exceedingly exasperated at this compliment to
his religion, and had it privately intimated to Mr. Davidson not to
desecrate the Holy Book in that abominable manner. The latter then very
prudently gave up to the minister all the printed verses he had brought
with him, which were concealed from public view. But if some of these
emperors are so rigid and scrupulous, there are others more liberal and
tolerant.
Muley Suleiman was a great admirer of the European character, and was
much attached to a Mr. Leyton, an English merchant. This merchant was
one day riding out of the city of Mogador, when an old woman rushed at
him, seized the bridle of his horse, and demanded alms. The merchant
pushed her away with his whip. The ancient dame seeing herself so rudely
nonsuited, went off screaming revenge; and although she had not had a
tooth in her head for twenty long years, she noised about town that Mr.
Leyton had knocked two of her teeth out, and importuned the Governor to
obtain her some pecuniary indemnification.
His Excellency advised Mr. Leyton to comply, and get rid of the
annoyance of the old woman. He resolutely refused, and the Governor was
obliged to report the case to the Emperor, as the old lady had made so
many partisans in Mogador as to threaten a disturbance. His Imperial
Highness wrote a letter to the merchant, condescendingly begging him to
supply the old woman with "two silver teeth," meaning thereby to give
her a trifling present in money. Mr. Leyton, being as obstinate as ever,
was ordered to appear before the Emperor at Morocco. Here the resolute
merchant declared that he had not knocked the teeth out of the old
woman's head, she had had none for years, and he would not be maligned
even in so small a matter.
The Emperor was at his wits' end, and endeavoured to smooth down the
contumacious Leyton, to save his capital from insurrection; imploring
him to comply with the Lex talionis, [19] and have two of his teeth
drawn if he was inflexibly determined not to pay. The poor Emperor was
in hourly dread of a revolution about this tooth business, and at the
same time he knew the merchant had spoken the truth. Strange to say, Mr.
Leyton at last consented to lose his teeth rather than his money.
However, on the merchant's return from the capital to Mogador, to his
surprise, and no doubt to his satisfaction, he found that two ship-loads
of grain had been ordered to be delivered to him by the Emperor, in
compensation for the two teeth which he had had punched out to satisfy
the exigencies of the Empire.