_Modern Bruges_
We have said that Bruges never recovered from the blow which Maximilian
had dealt her. She had no chance of doing so. Misfortune followed
misfortune. Most of her foreign merchants had migrated to Antwerp, and
once settled there they were loth to return. The discovery of America,
and of a new route to the Indies, added to her discomfiture by forcing
commerce to forsake its old paths and its old havens; the river, the
source of her wealth, was rapidly filling with sand. As early as 1410
the navigation of the Zwyn, even as far as Sluys, had become exceedingly
difficult; by the close of the century no great vessel could reach
Damme, and before another fifty years had elapsed Bruges was altogether
cut off from the sea. If a ship canal had been made, as Lancelot
Blondeel suggested, from the city to Heyst, where there is deep water
quite close to the shore, she might perchance have yet found salvation.
But still poor, and weary from her conflict with Maximilian, she had
neither the means nor the heart to carry out so vast a project.
Then, too, there were the troubles bred of the religious revolution and
the tyranny of Spanish rule; the cruelty of Philip, and the cruelty of
Alva, and the no less cruel retaliation of 'the Beggars of the Sea,' who
on March 26, 1578, captured the city, and by the aid of Colonel Henry
Balfour, a Scotch adventurer in the service of William of Orange, held
it for six years.
During this period Catholic worship was strictly prohibited, many of the
leading citizens were thrust into prison, amongst them the bishop, a
large-minded and liberal man, who had done his utmost to stay Alva's
hand, and most of the clergy were driven into exile. Some of them fared
worse still--were tortured, scourged, burnt at the stake in front of the
Cathedral. Nor was this all. Sanctuaries were pillaged, altars cast
down, art treasures innumerable were wantonly destroyed, the Church of
St. Anne was razed to the ground, and Notre Dame was turned into a
stable.
Two years later Balfour received his reward. It happened thus. About
this time the Spaniards were threatening the city, and the Scotch
colonel led out his troops to oppose them. Wounded in the conflict which
followed, but apparently not grievously, for he was still able to keep
his saddle, he turned his horse's head towards Bruges. Presently his
comrades saw him reel, and then, without a cry or any other sign, he
fell back dead. They carried him home to the city, and buried him in the
churchyard of St. Sauveur.
During these troublous times hundreds of the best and wealthiest
families left the city, and when peace was at length restored in 1584,
the population hardly numbered thirty thousand souls. If it had not been
for the Church, Bruges would in all probability have gradually dwindled
down to a mere village like Sluys or Damme, or even little Middelburg.
The action of Pope Pius IV., who, at the instance of Philip II. in 1560,
had made Bruges an Episcopal See, saved her from this fate. Bitterly
opposed as the measure had been by all classes of society--by the higher
clergy, who feared that the presence of a bishop amongst them would
lessen their prestige; by the monks, who knew that they would be shorn
of revenue for the endowment of the new See; by the nobles, who regarded
the great abbeys as the appanage of their younger sons; by the people,
who believed that this step was the prelude to the installation of the
Spanish Inquisition--it proved in the outcome the town's salvation. And
Bruges owed something more to the Church:--towards the close of the
fifteen hundreds and during the opening years of the succeeding century,
a vast immigration of wealthy families, who brought with them gold, and,
better still, treasures of literature and treasures of art.
Many of the religious houses in the outlying country had been destroyed
by the Ghent Calvinists, not a few in the immediate neighbourhood of
Bruges by the burghers themselves, who, when the Gueux were threatening
them in 1578, had caused all buildings within a mile of their walls to
be razed to the ground, in order that the enemy might find no place for
shelter. For fifty years after the settlement of 1582, even when the
religious troubles were over, Flanders was the scene of continual
warfare. Amid the coming and going of troops there was no guarantee of
security outside the walls of the towns, and, as might be expected, the
monks and nuns of the country-side flocked into the episcopal city.
Amongst them were representatives of almost all the great religious
orders--Benedictines, Carthusians, Dominicans, Augustinians, Carmelites,
Capuchins, Jesuits, and, most noteworthy of all, Cistercians from the
famous Abbey of St. Mary on the Dunes at Coxyde, and from the affiliated
house called Ter Doest, at Lisseweghe.
Of all the religious communities to which Bruges now offered an asylum,
this was the mightiest and the most renowned. It was unsurpassed alike
in wealth, in learning, in numbers, in dignity of life, in dignity of
tradition, in spiritual and temporal achievements. St. Bernard was its
founder. Some of the holiest and wisest men of the Middle Ages had been
numbered among its members; the abbey at Coxyde was magnificent; its
church was, perhaps, the most beautiful in the land; thanks to the
patient toil of its monks, as one of their abbots used to boast, the
barren dunes which surrounded it had become a fertile garden.
[Illustration: BRUGES FROM THE RIVER YPERLET]
A whirlwind of fanaticism swept them away, and now their vast domain is
what it was before the white-robed brethren settled there--a wilderness
of shifting sand.
Bruges during the opening years of the sixteen hundreds was seething in
misery. War had brought forth famine and pestilence, and the flight of
commerce had left thousands of working men without any means of gaining
their bread; but there was still gold in the city. The fortunes which
had been made in trade, or at all events a certain proportion of them,
remained after trade had departed, and the monastic immigrants, as we
have seen, were not without resources, nor did the possessors of the
mammon of unrighteousness suffer it to remain idle. They made to
themselves friends with it. Churches and monasteries were restored; the
monks and nuns from the country built for themselves new habitations;
hospices and almshouses, _Godshuisen_ (God's Houses), as they are at
Bruges picturesquely termed, were founded all over the city. Thus was
work provided for those who were able to do it, and a permanent
provision made for the aged and the infirm.
The buildings now erected in no way resembled the sumptuous palaces and
stately guild halls of bygone days, but some of them are sufficiently
picturesque. Take, for instance, the Carthusian Convent in the _rue du
Vieux Bourg_, with its seven gables, and mullioned windows, and
beautiful Gothic doorway surmounted by three niches, with statues of
saints in the style of the Renaissance--it has recently been restored,
and is now the _local_ of a workmen's club, the _Gilde van Ambachten_;
or the Leper Hospital, at the end of the _Marché au fil_; or the Pest
House on the Grand Canal adjoining the thirteenth-century Hospice of
_Notre Dame de la Poterie_ and there are a host of others equally
interesting, and above all and everywhere the little _Godshuisen_ with
their quaint gables, and blinking windows, and picturesque doorways,
often with a niche above them and the image of a saint. They are not the
least beautiful feature in the architecture of this beautiful city, and
the number of them is legion. Some are large enough to afford
accommodation for thirty or forty inmates. These are generally built
round a courtyard laid out as a garden. In others again there is only
room for six or seven persons. Some are for women only, some for men,
some for married couples; each _Godshuis_ has its little oratory; all of
them are comfortable and clean, and all are picturesque.
[Illustration: GODSHUIS, QUAI DES MARBRIERS]
The inmates are left very much to themselves, the oldest inhabitant
generally acting as superior. Each inmate or married couple, as the case
may be, in addition to his or their apartment, receives a monthly
pension varying in amount from house to house, but in no case very
large. Many of the inhabitants, however, are able to do a little work,
others, perhaps, have children who are in a position to contribute to
their support. Your true Fleming is rarely lacking in filial piety--it
is one of the most pleasing characteristics of the race--and thus these
old people are able to rub along, not perhaps in affluence, but for all
that with a good roof over their heads, without enduring the pangs of
hunger, and, no small boon, in the enjoyment of their liberty.
Thus was Bruges transformed in the seventeenth century, thus did she
become what she still is--a vast conglomeration of religious houses and
charitable institutions, a city of nuns and friars. The _évêché_ had
taken the place of the Court, the monk of the merchant; commerce had
fled, and charity was doing what she could to supply its place.
Thus, thanks in great measure to the initiative of the Church, the evil
days were tided over. When, later on, in the following century, the wars
and rumours of wars had passed away, and the 'pastoral folk' of the
Franc were enabled to obtain some profit from their former avocations,
Bruges to a certain extent participated in their prosperity; but though
she on more than one occasion essayed to revive her commerce--notably in
1722 by the canalization of the river Yperlet, with a view to putting
herself in communication with Ostend--her efforts in each case proved
abortive. Flanders had become, to quote the words of a
seventeenth-century historian, _famosum antiquitatis sepulchrum_, and
her capital was constrained to live on the reputation of its former
glory.
Let us not, however, shed too many tears over the commercial decay of
Bruges. If her prosperity had continued she would hardly have remained
what she still is--the fairest city in Northern Europe.
We know indeed that her private palaces were suffered to fall into decay
because their owners were too poor to maintain them, but if they had
been never so rich the old buildings would have disappeared just the
same. The art of the Middle Ages was abhorrent to the eighteenth
century, and the Gothic palaces of Bruges would surely have given place
to rococo mansions. Moreover, that same poverty which destroyed so much
of her splendour not only endowed her, as we have seen, with a multitude
of picturesque buildings, but has preserved for us what remains of her
ancient domestic architecture.
On the 2nd of October 1670 the members of the Confraternity of the
Blessed Sacrament established in the Church of St. Sauveur--now the
Cathedral--decreed that the three fifteenth-century stained-glass
windows in their chantry--the central chapel of the ambulatory,
immediately behind the high altar--should be forthwith destroyed, in
order that the public might the better appreciate the new altar they had
erected, which 'was such an admirable imitation of marble.'
In 1739 a like act of vandalism, but on a larger scale, was perpetrated
in the same church. The ancient stained-glass windows were at this time
removed from the clerestory of the choir and replaced by white glass,
and there were no less than thirteen of them. Similar outrages were
committed in all the churches and public buildings of Bruges, and if
only her private citizens had been rich enough to pull down and rebuild
their dwellings there would have been little left by this time of the
mediæval city.
It is only fair to add that Bruges has long since learned to appreciate
her old buildings. Many of them have been carefully restored, others are
in course of restoration, the work has for the most part been
accomplished with no little skill and taste, and, for the rest, it may
be safely said that no other great mediæval city has preserved so much
of its old-world character. How long this will continue to be true is
another question. Lancelot Blondeel's scheme, or one no less nefarious,
is at length being carried out; much havoc has already been wrought in
the northern outskirts of the city; old houses have been pulled down,
old timber has been felled; in despite of strenuous opposition, the
course of one of the loveliest canals has been diverted, and its former
bed filled in for the convenience of the jerry builder.
If the projected sea canal should fulfil the expectation of its
promoters there can be no doubt that Bruges will lose much of her charm.
She will no longer be a city of sleepy streets and of picturesque canals
unfrequented save by swans, choked up with water lilies, and fringed
with trees and flowering shrubs and dreamy old houses blinking at the
water. She will become a second Ghent, a second Antwerp, and the
knowing ones aver that all the profit will find its way into the pockets
of Jews and Germans. The modern Fleming, it would seem, has little
aptitude for commerce.
There is some consolation in this thought, and there is more in
this--the scheme is a vast one, and Bruges moves slowly. It took her
twenty years to restore the Hôtel Gruthuise. Twenty-five years ago she
decided to restore the western façade of Notre Dame. Between that time
and this the architect who was commissioned to undertake the work has
submitted no less than twenty-five different plans. When the façade has
actually fallen, and it is said that it cannot last much longer, perhaps
those who are responsible for the delay will select one of them.
We may take it then that mediæval Bruges will at all events last our
day.
The following notes will perhaps be of service to those who wish to see
the most beautiful and interesting spots in Bruges, and to examine its
art treasures.
Let such an one, coming forth from his inn, which, if he be a wise man,
will be either _Le Flandre_ or _Le Commerce_--there are others cheaper
but none so comfortable--unaccompanied by a guide, who would only
irritate and confuse him, and keeping his eyes always open, for there is
much to see, make his way as best he can to the _Grande Place_, and
there let him feast his eyes on the majestic splendour of the Belfry,
and fill his ears with the weird music which every quarter of an hour
proceeds from it--
Low and loud and sweetly blended,
Low at times and loud at times,
And changing like a poet's rhymes
_Ring_ the beautiful wild chimes
From the Belfry in the market
Of the ancient town of Bruges.
Next let him turn off into the street called Philipstock, proceeding
along which he will presently descry, beyond the houses on the left-hand
side, all that remains of the old Church of St. Peter, where Bertulph
once celebrated the obsequies of Charles the Good. The first turning on
the right leads, through a grove of sycamore and chestnut trees planted
on the site of St. Donatian's, to the _Place du Bourg_, one of the
loveliest squares in Europe. The great Gothic building opposite is the
_Hôtel de Ville_; the two-storeyed church of tawny brick hard-by, with a
portal at right angles to it of dark grey stone carved into flamboyant
panelling and enriched with statues of bronze, the Sanctuary of the Holy
Blood; in the gabled edifice on the left, half Gothic and half
Renaissance in style, glorious with colour and gold, and altogether
beautiful, we have the last architectural effort of the waning
prosperity of Bruges--the _Maison de l'ancien Greffe_, built in 1537. It
now serves as a Court of Justice, has been carefully restored, and is
well worth a visit. The justice-room, with its old oak and old brass,
its stained-glass windows and its glorious chimney-piece, is perfect; so
too the inner chamber, which serves as the magistrates' private
apartment. The _Hôtel de Ville_ has also been well restored; the
entrance hall is particularly fine, and the great hall above, with its
ancient timber roof, and its excellent modern frescoes, not yet
completed, is no less charming. In this building there are several
interesting pictures of Bruges in days gone by and of the surrounding
country. Of the beauty of the two churches we have already spoken. In
the upper church there are some interesting pictures, there are more in
the adjoining museum, and here too there are some fragments of ancient
stained glass, the original designs of the windows in the upper chapel,
some beautiful antique lace and embroidery, and the silver-gilt
[Illustration: LANCELOT BLONDELL'S CHIMNEY-PIECE IN THE PALAIS DU
FRANC]
reliquary studded with jewels--amongst them a splendid black diamond
which once belonged to Marie, Queen of Scots--in which the Holy Blood is
annually carried in procession through the streets in the month of May.
This reliquary was the gift of the burghers of Bruges in 1614; the
original reliquary was destroyed by the Protestants in 1578. The relic
is exposed for the veneration of the faithful every Friday in the upper
chapel from eight till eleven thirty, and the ceremony of Benediction
which then takes place is singularly impressive.
The beautiful groined archway which pierces the _Maison de l'ancien
Greffe_ leads to a region where there are exquisite views: from the
centre of the Great Fishmarket, the backs of the buildings of which we
have just been speaking--they are no less fascinating than their
façades; and from the _Pont de l'âne Aveugle_ the loveliness of the
Roya, and the façade of the _Palais du Franc_ where, in the great
council chamber, is Lancelot Blondeel's famous chimney-piece. The
approach to this building is through the _Palais de Justice_ in the
_Place du Bourg_. Bearing to the right through the Little Fishmarket,
most picturesque, we presently reach the _Marché aux Herbes_, the _Quai
de Rosaire_ and the _Dyver_, where the scenery is no less charming. The
great red house on the further bank of the Roya is the house where
Malvenda hid the Holy Blood, and the majestic spire in the distance the
spire of _Notre Dame_. Almost at the end of the _Dyver_ there is a
little street called the _rue de Groeninghe_, which branches off the
main thoroughfare between two walled gardens. That on the left is the
site of the ancient abbey of Eeckhout, a very peaceful place, where in
summer-time there are roses in abundance and old-world herbs and
flowers, and, on a crumbling wall, snap-dragon. The gabled house
hard-by, with a little Gothic window, was formerly the residence of the
provosts of Notre Dame; the picturesque group of buildings in the
distance, which, amid thick foliage, cluster round its spire, is the old
palace of Louis of Gruthuise; the garden beyond the narrow stream, the
garden of the nuns of St. André. Let the traveller linger awhile in this
tranquil spot and, if he will, for twopence half-penny, refresh himself
with a beautiful bunch of roses.
Continuing his walk along the _rue de Groeninghe_ the tourist will
presently see a wrought-iron grill at the end of an _impasse_ which
gives on the river. Let him approach it and look through the railings.
Here there is a nook which strangers rarely find; many who have lived in
the city for years do not know of it, and yet it is perhaps the most
beautiful of all the beautiful spots in Bruges. To discover this
priceless jewel is the main object of our journey. Here the Roya is
often a rushing torrent. On one side of the stream, rising clean out of
the water, is the oldest wing of the _Gruthuise_; on the other a walled
garden with lofty trees spreading their branches over the river which,
to the right, disappears beneath an archway piercing an old house, once
part of the palace; in the near background, immediately facing the
grill, is the choir of Notre Dame with its grove of flying buttresses,
and beyond, towering high above all, the majesty of its steeple--the
grandest and the fairest thing in brick or stone which the genius of man
has yet created. It was from this lovely spot, or rather a few yards
higher up stream, that Mr. Railton took the beautiful sketch of the
_Hôtel Gruthuise_ which appears on p. 287.
Hard-by, on the bank of this same river, a little higher up stream,
stands the Beguinage (_see_ map), that most picturesque cloister where
the quaint dwellings of the nuns--for each Beguin has her own home, her
own purse and her own household--fringe a fair and spacious green
planted with lofty elms, a very tranquil spot where the ghost of the
thirteenth century still lingers. The convent church dates from the year
1245, but it has been so changed and spoiled by repeated restorations
that little of the original building remains, and it can no longer,
perhaps, be called beautiful. But, notwithstanding, it has a certain
charm which is quite its own. It is so picturesque and so clean and so
quiet and so comfortable, and with it all there is such a quaint,
old-world atmosphere about the place that many a much more beautiful
church is far less attractive. And the worshippers who frequent it!--the
very precise and deliberate and ceremonious old ladies who totter across
the green to church at intervals throughout the day--from _angelus_ to
_angelus_, and there let down their long black trains and put on their
white choir veils, and presently, with much curtseying to one another
and many genuflections before the high altar, together chant their
breviary in feeble, quavering tones, whilst the old caretaker, in a
secluded corner, calmly tells her beads or knits stockings.
The entrance to the Beguinage is by the _Place de la Vigne_, over a
bridge which spans the Roya, whence there are beautiful views of that
stream, of the Beguins' little gardens, of their church, of the old
lockhouse at the head of the Minne Water, of the lake itself beyond,
and, in the far background, of those lovely wooded ramparts, where all
night long in summer-time the nightingale intones _his_ psalmody.
The canals of Bruges are all of them exceedingly beautiful. The great
canal, which enters the city on the eastern side between the _Porte de
Gand_ and the Infantry Barracks, and divides it into two unequal parts,
is interesting from end to end, and as there are roads on each side,
and it is spanned by five bridges, there is no difficulty in exploring
it. The most picturesque route is from the Bourg by the _rue de l'âne
Aveugle_ and the terrace which skirts the backwater of the Roya--the
_Quai des Marbriers_, as it is called, and the _Quai Vert_. Hard-by the
spot where the main stream of the Roya--a vista here of ancient gables
with the _Poorters Logie_ and its charming tower in the
distance--empties itself into the canal is the old tavern which Rubens
is said to have frequented. It stands in the _rue des Blanchisseurs_, a
narrow lane off the road which skirts the right-hand bank of the canal,
and is called the _Vlissinghe_. A most interesting old place this, the
tourist should not fail to visit it. The accompanying sketch is of the
back of the house.
[Illustration: THE VLISSINGHE TAVERN, FREQUENTED BY RUBENS]
The Ghent Canal skirts the whole of the eastern side of the town, from
the Minne Water Bridge, that is, to the old _Porte de Damme_; on its
banks stand the _Porte de Gand_ and the _Porte Ste. Croix_. From the
high ramparts beyond the latter gate there is a beautiful panoramic view
of the city and of the open country on the other side of the water.
There is also a canal which branches off from the Ghent Canal by the
Minne Water Bridge in the opposite direction; it runs alongside of the
ramparts as far as the _Porte des Baudets_, where it turns off into the
open country. Its banks are for the most part well wooded, beyond the
picturesque _Porte des Maréchaux_ they are high and steep, and from this
spot too there is a beautiful view of the city.
Hard-by the hospital for incurable women, a vast and splendid modern
building which stands on the banks of the Minne Water, a fourth canal
enters the town. This is perhaps the fairest of all the Bruges
waterways. The best points of view are from its bridges, which are all
save one beautiful and all save one ancient. There are no less than six
of them:--the _Pont de la Clef_, which separates the _rue des Bouchers_
from the _rue Fossé aux Loups_--Mr. Railton has given us a sketch of it;
the _Pont aux Lions_, hard by the _rue du Marécage_ and the Church of
St. Jacques; the _Pont des Baudets_ in the _rue d'Ostende_; the _Pont
Flamand_, which connects the _rue Flamande_ with the _rue St.
Georges_;--this is the oldest bridge in Bruges, originally constructed
by the Augustinian friars in 1294, it was rebuilt by the town in
1391--the _Pont des Augustins_ at the end of the _rue Espagnole_, and
the _Pont de la Tour_ by the _Place des Orientaux_. The tourist will do
well to visit all these bridges and also to follow the road which skirts
the canal from the last bridge to its junction with the great canal,
about five hundred yards further on. The gardens and houses on the
opposite side of the stream are most picturesque. It was here that John
van Eyck lived, though, alas! his dwelling has been swept away.
[Illustration: Quai des Ménétriers]
Of the Roya and of the beautiful backwater which connects it with the
great canal, at the end of the _rue des Dominicains_, we have already
spoken in a previous chapter. There are other streams too which wend
their way through the city. It is impossible within the limits of this
manual even to indicate their whereabouts, so numerous are they and so
intricate is their meandering. The tourist will come upon them, in the
course of his rambles, in the most unexpected places, and he will find
them on that account none the less beautiful.
Bruges possesses seven parish churches--_Notre Dame_, which claims
precedence of all the rest; _St. Sauveur_, which is also the
Cathedral--a finer but less picturesque and less interesting building;
_St. Jacques_, a noble structure spoiled by Calvinist fury and
seventeenth century restoration; _St. Gilles_, which suffered more than
all, and has now renewed its youth and splendour; _Ste. Anne_, which
dates from the opening years of the sixteen hundreds and which, with its
carved oak, its old brass, its pictures, its stained glass and its
polished marble, is a very pleasing specimen of the work of the period;
_Ste. Walburge_, erected about the same date from the design of the
Jesuit Peter Huyssens, a native of Bruges, who died in that city in
1637; and _Ste. Marie Madeleine_, a modern building which, if it were in
London, would be called 'handsome.'
All of these churches, save the last, are worth visiting, not only
because of their intrinsic beauty, but on account of the beautiful and
interesting objects which they contain. Pictures, wood carving,
wrought-iron, brass, all these things shall here delight the eye--aye,
and gold too and silver and precious stones, tapestry, embroidery, lace,
if only the custodians can be persuaded to discover their hidden
treasures.
Of the other sanctuaries of Bruges, the traveller should at least visit
the Chapel of the Hospital of St. John (1473), which is rich in _objets
d'art_, and possesses, amongst other treasures, a set of embroidered
Mass vestments which date from 1633, and are all sewn with pearls, no
less than seventy-three thousand of them, so it is said; the Chapel and
Hospice of _Notre Dame de la Poterie_ (1358), beautifully restored,
[Illustration: Pont St. Augustin]
where there is a small collection of early Flemish pictures, some
charming old oak furniture and sculpture, and several pieces of
fifteenth-century tapestry; the Carmelite Church in the _rue d'Ostende_,
built in 1688 from the designs of Frère Patrice de Saint-Hubert; here
the dancing angels over the altar are spindle-shanked and
ill-proportioned, the cupids which flutter about them have the faces of
demons, and seem bursting with evil passions, the sacred figures carved
on the confessionals are caricatures, the whole scheme of ornament is in
the worst possible taste, but somehow or other, in spite of it all, this
church is a very fascinating and a very devotional one; the proportions
are good, it is rich in carved oak and sculptured marble, the colouring
is harmonious, and the windows, amber-hued and pale green, with
beautiful patterns traced in lead, are simply perfect; and of course
there is the Jerusalem Chapel and the chapels of the Precious Blood, of
all of which we have already spoken, and, if the tourist would go
further afield, the stately thirteenth-century Church of Our Lady at
Damme, and the no less beautiful shrine of Our Lady at Lisseweghe, which
dates from the same period.
Damme is about three miles out of the city. It is situated on the banks
of the Sluys Canal. There is a very good steamboat service, and the
pleasantest way to reach it is by water. The Damme Town Hall dates from
the end of the fourteenth century, and is a charming old building. Here,
too, is a convent and hospital which dates from the thirteenth century,
and there are some quaint old houses. When Bruges was at its heyday the
population of Damme amounted to sixty thousand souls. The number of its
inhabitants is now probably less than one thousand.
Lisseweghe is some five miles from Bruges. The pleasantest way to reach
it is by walking or driving. About a mile short of the village, a little
off the high road on the left-hand side, are the ruins of _Ter Doest
Abbey_, well worth visiting. The great Gothic grange or barn dates from
the close of the thirteenth century (about 1280), and is still intact,
a stupendous building, 187 feet by 75 feet or thereabouts, and nearly
100 feet high from the ground to the ridge of the roof. Lisseweghe can
also be reached by rail.
Of the other famous buildings of Bruges we have already spoken. By the
aid of the map and the directions previously given, the reader will have
no difficulty in ascertaining their whereabouts.
Bruges is a city of considerable size; its ramparts measure nearly five
miles round, and it is hardly an exaggeration to say there is no spot
within this magic circle devoid of interest.
The stranger who, having hurried through its churches and picture
galleries in the morning, and whiled away an hour or so in its streets
in the afternoon, fancies that he knows Bruges is vastly mistaken. For
our own part, we have dwelt in this enchanted city for many years, and
the sum of its loveliness, we feel very sure, has not yet been revealed
to us.
[Illustration: PLAN OF BRVGES]
INDEX
A
Abbey of St. Bavon at Ghent, 335.
Abbey of St. Bertin at St. Omer, to which Arnulph acted as abbot, 23.
Acta of Louis the Fat, the, compiled by Suger, Abbot of St. Denis,
and containing a life of Charles the Good, 40.
Adelard II., Abbot of St. Trond, 334.
Adornes, Hôtel d', erected by Anselm and John Adornes, 320-2.
Alliance, the, of Bruges, Ghent and Ypres, 192.
Amand, St., Bishop of Bourges, 2.
Arnulph, son of Baldwin Calvus, 21;
his work in the reformation and re-organisation of the
Church in Flanders, 22-5.
Arnulph II., his reign, 26.
Arnulph, Abbot of Blandinium, requested to bury
the body of Charles secretly, 50.
Arras, the Treaty of, 230.
Artois, Count of, his part in the invasion of Flanders in
conjunction with Philippe le Bel, 154, 155, 157;
his death, 159.
Aspremont, the Lord of, lieutenant to Louis II. of Nevers, 177;
rebellion of the Karls against his tyranny, and his
dismissal from office, 178.
Austria, the Archduke of, his regency over Flanders, 274, 275.
B
Backwater of the Roya, upon which Baldwin's new Bourg was built, 11, 12.
Baldwin the Bald, 17;
his death in 918, and burial at St. Omer and Blandinium, 18.
Baldwin of Constantinople, his character, 111, 112;
his receipt of the symbol of the Cross, 113;
revolt of the Greeks against his rule, 114;
his reported death and discovery twenty years after, 114, 115;
the story of his adventures, 116-8;
the attempt by his daughter and the King of France
to discredit his story, 119;
his arrest by the Baron Erard de Chastenay, and
execution by his daughter Jeanne, 121.
Baldwin the Good, 29;
his disposition, 30;
his death, 32.
Baldwin Hapkin, the influence exercised over him by Charles of Denmark, 37.
Baldwin of the Iron Hand, the real founder of Bruges, his coming, 5;
his abduction of Judith, daughter of Charles the Bald, 6;
his flight to Rome, 7;
and subsequent rise to power, 8;
his death, 17.
Baldwin of Lille, forced to rebuild and extend the walls of Bruges, 27, 28.
Baldwin of the Long Beard, his continuation of the work of Arnulph, and the
increased prosperity of Flanders, 27.
Baptistry Chapel, 11.
Barbesaen, Nicholas, banished from Bruges, his work, 218.
Bavichove, the battle at which Count Robert
signally defeated Richilde, 34, 36.
Becket, Thomas à, his shelter at the Flemish Court, 110.
Belfry of Bruges, the, 169.
Berri, the Duke of, hated by the burghers, wounded almost to
death, 213;
the confession of John the Fearless to him, 224.
Bertulph, his charge against Charles of Denmark, 44;
his sorrow at the death of Charles the Good, 53;
his escape from Bruges, 64;
concealment at the manor of Alard of Woesten,
and capture by William of Löo, 65;
his death, 67;
story of his life, 76-8.
Beuterbeke, the, 64.
_Bibliothèque royale_ at Brussels, 335.
Black House, the, 309.
Bladelin, Sir Peter, treasurer of the Golden Fleece, 318;
foundation of a chantry, _ibid._;
his portrait at Berlin, 319.
Bourchard d'Avesnes, 123;
Flanders's universal belief in, 125;
his marriage with Margaret, daughter of Baldwin of Constantinople,
her declaration of the marriage, 127;
birth of two children, 128;
the effect of the crushing of Baldwin of Constantinople upon him, 128;
his imprisonment, and the breaking by Margaret of her plighted troth, 129;
his death, 131;
the connection of Bruges with his love story, 132.
Boudts, Dierick, 367-9.
Breidel, John, Dean of the Butchers' Guild, throws in his lot with those
rebelling against Philippe le Bel, 149.
Brugge, the residence of Baldwin and Judith, after their
reconciliation with Charles the Bald, 9, 10.
Burchard, his leadership of the Erembalds against the Stratens, 47;
his house burned as a punishment, _ibid._;
his murder of Charles the Good, 48;
his attempt to make his peace with the dead man, 53;
his death, 71.
Burgundy, the Dukes of, their constant enmity with the French princes, 211.
C
Carmelite Church, the, 408.
Carthusian Convent, the, 393.
Chapel of St. Basil, 11.
Chapter of St. Donatian's, founded by Arnulph, 22.
Charles VIII. of France, his help to the Flemings, 285;
and the reading of his charters, 286.
Charles the Bald, King of the Franks, 5;
his action against those who rebelled against him, 7;
the reconciliation, 8.
Charles le Bel, his submission to the
reign of Louis of Nevers in Flanders, 174;
his death, 184.
Charles the Bold, his reign in Flanders, 248-67;
his schemes, and defeat at Nancy, 249, 250;
his further demands, 250;
his disappearance, _ibid._
Charles the Good, his influence over Baldwin Hapkin;
his reign as Count of Flanders, 37;
Provost Bertulph's charge against him, 44;
called away to France, 45;
forced Erembalds and Stratens to swear a truce
to hostilities during his absence, 46;
his punishment of Burchard, 47;
his murder by Burchard, 48;
and his hurried secret burial, 51;
his character considered, 51, 52.
Charter, the Great, 164-71.
Châtillon, Jacques de, 146;
his policy, 147;
and its results, 148;
his arrival at Bruges with 2000 knights, their defeat, 150;
and his escape, 151.
Cnopp, Wulfric, the first prisoner executed after the
surrender of Bruges to the Isegrins, 70.
Coins, their evidence that Bruges was a commercial town of some note, 16.
Commines, Philippe de, quoted, 262.
Confraternity of the Blessed Sacrament, 395.
Coninck, Petrus de (_see_ Peter King).
Coucy, Albéric de, chief councillor to Richilde of Hainault, 33.
Courtrai, the Battle of, and its results, 154-61.
Craenenburg, the, 284, 324, 325.
Crévcoeur, his command of the Flemings during
their revolt against Maximilian, 273.
D
Damme, 409.
Danes, their constant warfare with Baldwin of the Iron Hand,
and their fierce pillage of Flanders, 17.
David, Gerard, 351-64.
Deken, Willem de, his horrible fate, 189.
Dierick of Alsace, proclaimed Count of Flanders, 87;
his confirmation and increase of the rights and privileges of Bruges, 88;
his triumph over William Cliton, 90;
the bringing to Bruges of a religious relic, 92;
his part in the second Crusade, _ibid._
Doest, Ter, 391, 392, 409.
Duclos, Canon, his opinion of Gothic architecture, 326.
Dunstan, St., his munificence to the monasteries of Flanders, 23.
E
Edward III. of England, his active co-operation
with the communes of Flanders, 190;
hostilities between England, France, and Louis of Nevers, 191;
negotiations with Louis and with Flemish burghers, _ibid._;
his generous support to Flanders, 193.
Eeckhout, the Abbey, its story, 76, 78.
Eligius, the Feast of St., 309.
England, the changed attitude of Flanders with regard to, 36;
the taking of Sluys, and orderly retreat therefrom, 217.
Erembald, his appointment as Châtelain of Bruges, 35.
Erembald Family, the, 40;
its feud with the house of Straten, 41, 45.
Etheldritha, wife of Baldwin the Bald.
Baldwin's body re-buried by her command, 18.
Exiles, their flight to Bruges, 28.
Eyck, Hubert van, 339-44.
Eyck, John van, 336, 337, 339, 340, 344-51.
F
Feast of the Precious Blood (_see_ also Relic), 96.
Ferdinand of Portugal, 123;
his marriage to Jeanne, daughter of Baldwin of Constantinople, and
renunciation of Philip's overlordship, 123;
his capture at the Battle of Bouvines, 125.
Fiérens-Gevaert, 337.
FitzOsberne, William, Earl of Hereford,
his assistance of Richilde of Hainault, 33.
Flotte, Pierre, his escape, along with de Châtillon, from Bruges, 152;
his death, 158.
Fouquet, Jean, 336.
Froissart quoted, 201, 213.
G
Gachard quoted, 293.
Galbert quoted, 62 (_see_ Walbert).
Gardin, Wuillaume du, 340.
Gerson, Jean de, his denunciation of Petit's doctrine, 228;
his residence in Lyons, 229.
Gheldorf, 165-7.
Ghent, 50;
the secret negotiations of the Ghenters
for the body of Charles the Good, 63;
their renunciation of homage to William Cliton, 87;
the playing of Bruges against Ghent by Louis of Nevers, 176;
its loyalty and pride, 182;
the preservation of its liberties after the
invasion of Philip of Valois, 189;
its omission from the favours of Louis of Valois, 192;
alliance with Bruges and Ypres, 192;
charges against Sohier, the Regent, 194;
complications with Bruges, 199;
capture of Bruges, 200;
conciliation between the two towns, 210;
defection of burghers fighting against Philippe, 240;
their fight for liberty defeated, 245;
sentence of exile against Philip of Hornes, 262;
possession taken by Maximilian, 274.
Ghistelhof, 320.
Gillemer, 336.
Gilliodts, Monsieur, his opinion on the Belfry, 169.
Godshuisen, 392-4.
Godwin, Earl, the outlawry of his son, and his negotiation for a marriage
between Tostig and Baldwin of Lille's daughter, 28.
Gosfried, a Northern chieftain, 5.
Green's _Short History of the English People_ quoted, 191.
Gruthuise, Hôtel, 291-313;
connected with the Church of Notre Dame, 314, 315, 332;
its restoration, 397, 402.
Gunhilda, residence with her mother at Bruges, her
gift to the Collegiate Church, and her death, 29.
Guntfried, a Northern chieftain, 5.
Guy de Dampierre, Count, his brilliant Court, 136, 137;
his mistrust of Flanders, 137;
the difficulties of his reign, 138-43;
his imprisonment, treaty with Philip, and death, 161, 162.
Guy of Namur, son of Guy of Flanders, his welcome in Flanders, 153;
his battle cry, and its effect, 158.
H
Hacket, Desiderius, head of the house of Erembald, 40;
his speech to the Isegrins, 60;
escape from Bruges, and journey across the great salt
marsh to the stronghold of his son-in-law, 72;
his life and descendants, 73-4.
Helbig, Jules, 337.
Henry VI. of England, his complaint at Philippe l'Asseuré's disloyalty, 231.
Holy Sepulchre, the, 323.
Hospital of St. John, the Chapel of, 407.
Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, to whom the county
of Flanders was awarded by Henry VI., 231;
his recognition as Count, 232.
I
Inns, 397.
Isaac of Reninghe, nephew to Bertulph, hanged by William of Löo, 82.
Ivan of Alost, his speech to William Cliton at Ghent, 86;
and the proclamation that he renounced his homage to William, 87.
J
Jabbeke, Jan van, 338.
John of Dadizeele, his character, 259, 260;
attacked by ruffians, 260;
and killed, 261.
John the Fearless, reign in Flanders, 212;
character, 213;
disappointment at the retreat of English before burghers of Bruges, 217;
vengeance on Bruges, 217-20;
use of Flemings to fight against France, their refusal
to fight beyond a stated time, 220, 221;
compelled to yield at all points to the burghers, 222;
murder of the Duc d'Orléans, 223;
confession and flight, 224;
increased power, 225;
death, 226, 227.
John of Namur, appointment as warden at Sluys, and imprisonment, 175.
Judith, daughter of Charles the Bald, her marriage to King Ethelwolf
of Wessex, and abduction by Baldwin, 6.
Jurisdiction, the right of Bruges to exercise it over Sluys and Damme, 171.
K
Karls of the seaboard, constant feud with sovereigns of Flanders, 30;
home and manners, 31;
independence, 32, 33;
Leliart nobles' opinion of, 177;
rebellion, 178-82;
preparations to resist Philip of Valois, 186;
descent on the French camp, 187;
defeat, 188.
_De Kerels van Vlaanderen_, by Hendrick Conscience, 38, 39.
Kervyn quoted, 141, 187, 233, 241, 251.
King, Peter, consideration of his original station and position, 145;
leadership of Bruges, 146;
retreat from Bruges, 147;
failure to win over the Ghenters, and the
consequent terror of his followers, 148;
wisdom, 149;
recall to Bruges, and defeat of De Châtillon, 150.
Krangrok, Herred, a typical Karl, 31.
L
Lanchals, Peter, his flight, 282;
betrayal, 294;
and death, 295.
_La Noble Confrérie du Précieux Sang_, 103.
Laws of Bruges, the, 106-8.
Lisseweghe, 409, 410.
Lisseweghe, the monastery, 73.
Longfellow quoted, 256.
Louis XI. of France, 270, 271.
Louis the Fat, 67-69, 71;
his message to the people of Flanders, and
nomination of William Cliton as Count, 82;
plan to wrest Normandy from Henry Beauclerc, 83.
Louis of Maele, son of Louis of Nevers, policy, 195;
attempt to make burghers renounce allegiance to Edward III., 195, 196;
means for avoiding marriage with Isabella of England, 197;
oppression of Ghent, and rising of Ghenters, 190;
defeat of Louis, 200;
flight and escape, 201;
his wife, 205;
generosity to Bruges, _ibid._
Louis of Nevers, 172;
imprisonment by his father, 173;
death, _ibid._
Louis II. of Nevers, accession to throne of Flanders, 174;
appointment of his uncle, John of Namur, as warden of Sluys,
and anger of the citizens of Bruges, 175;
his life at the Court of Nevers, 176;
action of his lieutenant in Flanders, 177;
rebellion of Flemings against him, 178;
fear of treachery, 180;
and violent measures to crush the rebels, 181;
his defeat and capture, _ibid._;
charter issued from prison, 182;
his release and oath to respect the liberties of the Flemings, 183;
his changed mood, 191;
death, 194.
Louis, son of Charles the Bald, conspiracy
with Guntfried, Gosfried, and Baldwin, 6;
their defeat, 7.
Lübke, 337.
M
Maison de l'ancient Greffe, 398, 401.
Marche, M. Lecoy de la, _note_, 336.
Marché aux Herbes, 401.
Margaret, daughter of Baldwin of
Constantinople, wife of Bourchard d'Avesnes, 127;
birth of her two sons, 128;
breaking of her troth to Bourchard, 129;
hatred for him, 130;
and her attempt to prove the illegitimacy of her children, 131.
Marie, daughter of Charles the Bold, accession to throne of Flanders, 252;
betrothal, 256;
marriage, 257;
death, 265;
monument erected to her memory, 266.
Marmion, Simon, 336.
Maximilian, of Austria, betrothal to Marie of Flanders, 256;
marriage, 257;
weakness of intellect, 257;
vacillation, 258;
expenditure of his wife's money, 258, 259;
arrest of Bruges' magistrates, 261;
release of same on payment of a heavy fine, 262;
departure for Holland and confirmation of the authority
of the council of regency, 269;
victory over Dutch rebels, and insults to Regents, 271;
declaration regarding
his treaty, and preparations for war, 272;
triumph by treachery over Bruges and Ghent, 274;
foolish disdain for the Flemings, and ambitious
attempt to invade France, 276;
defeat, 277;
attempt to re-establish confidence in burghers, 278;
further trouble, 279, 282;
his speech to burghers, 283, 284;
visit of condolence from burghers, 286;
new prison, 290;
terms of his release, 296, 297;
residence in Hulse, and declaration therefrom, 299;
peace treaty, 301.
Memlinc, Hans, 339, 369-88.
Middelburg, near Bruges, 316.
Moerseke, Lord of, surrender of Guy of Dampierre's
sword to William of Juliers, 153.
Mural paintings, 338.
N
Nancy, the Battle of, its effect on Charles the Bold, 250.
Napoleon, visit to Bruges, and preservation of St. Basil's, 100.
Nassau, Count of, Maximilian's lieutenant, in Flanders, 302;
interception of food supplies, 303;
terms offered by Bruges, _ibid._
Nicholas II., Pontiff of Rome, intercession for Baldwin and Judith, 7.
Notre Dame, the Church of, 18, 75-80, 170, 208, 306;
connected with the Hôtel de Gruthuise, 313;
restoration of western façade, 397, 401, 407.
Notre Dame de la Poterie, 407.
O
Orientaux, Maison des, 310, 327.
Orléans, Duc d', his death, 223.
Oudewater, the birthplace of Gerard David, 353.
P
Palace of the Liberty of Bruges, 15.
Palais du Franc, 401.
Paris Hall, the, 310.
Petit, John, 225;
quoted, 226;
his doctrine denounced, 228.
Philip of Alsace, his reign, 105.
Philip Augustus of France, his action regarding the throne of Flanders, 122-4;
invasion of Flanders, 124.
Philippe l'Asseuré, accession to the throne of Flanders, 230;
treaty of Arras, 230;
defection of his army, 231;
acknowledgment of rights of Bruges over Sluys,
and attempt to dupe Bruges, 234;
terms agreed upon, 236;
Philippe's march upon Bruges, 237;
defeat, and escape, 238;
return to power, and conditions, 242;
his victims, 242, 243;
triumphant entry of Bruges, 244;
quiet in Flanders during the concluding years of reign, 245;
death, 246.
Philip of Cleves, oath, 298;
letter to Maximilian, 300;
upholding of oath, 304;
his end, 305.
Philip the Rash, 212;
character and popularity, 213;
policy, 214;
death, 216.
Philip, son of Marie, accession, 268;
return to Bruges, 279.
Philip of Thielt, connection with the Great Charter, 164.
Philip of Valois, King of France, accession, 184;
invasion of Flanders, 185.
Philippe le Bel, hatred of Guy de Dampierre, 139-43;
affiancing of sister and daughter to Edward I. of England and his son, 142;
visit to Flanders, 144;
and resultant rebellion, 145;
invasion of Flanders, 153, 154;
Battle of Courtrai, defeat, and subsequent negotiations, 155-62;
death, 163.
Place du Bourg, 398, 401.
Place de la Vigne, 403.
Poele, Jan van de, 325;
work and successors, 326.
Pont aux Lions, 405.
" de l'âne Aveugle, 401.
" des Augustins, 405.
" des Baudets, 405.
" de la Clef, 405.
" de la Tour, 405.
" Flamand, 405.
Poorters Logie, 404.
Porte des Baudets, 405.
" de Damme, 405.
" de Gand, 403, 405.
" des Maréchaux, 405.
" Ste. Croix, 405.
Praet, Gervais, speech to the men of Bruges, 64;
pacification of burghers, 85;
declaration in favour of Dierick of Alsace, 87.
Q
Quai de Rosaire, 401.
R
Rasseghem, Adrien van, treachery of, 302.
Relic. The water in which Joseph of Arimathea
was supposed to have washed the blood-stained body of Christ,
brought to Bruges by Dierick, 92;
its adventures, 95, 96.
Religious persecution, 390, 391.
Richard of Raeske, his challenge to Walter of Straten, 'the Winged Lie,' 43.
Richilde of Hainault, Countess Dowager, assumption of the reins of government
during the minority of Arnulph, 32, 33;
action against the Karls, assisted by William FitzOsberne,
Earl of Hereford, and others, 33;
defeat by Robert the Frisian, 34, 35;
acknowledgment of Robert as Count, 35.
Robert of Bethune, 162;
influenced by his son, Louis of Nevers, 172;
confession of an attempt to poison him, and imprisonment of Louis, 173;
his death, _ibid._
Robert of Cassel, his claim to the throne of Flanders, 174;
opposition to rebellious Karls withdrawn, 179.
Robert the Child, 59;
popularity, 69;
execution, 71.
Robert the Frisian, Richilde's defiance of, 33;
his preparations for revenge, 34;
and defeat of Richilde, 54, 55.
Rolf the Ganger, benefited by the treaty of Claire-sur-Epte, 21.
Roode, Vincent de, 325.
Rotbert, 5;
his vassalage to Charles the Bald, 6;
his position and influence, 8.
Roya, the river, 9;
its course, 10.
Rudolphe of Nesle, his death, 158.
S
St. Amand's Chapel, 11.
Ste. Anne, 407.
St. Basil, 99, 100.
St. Bertin, the Abbey of, at St. Omer, to which Arnulph acted as abbot, 23.
St. Donatian, the Cathedral of, 75.
St. Eloi's Church of Our Lady, 11.
St. Gilles, additions to the Church of, 306, 407.
St. Jacques, the Church of, 306, 407.
Ste. Marie Madeleine, 407.
St. Mary at Ardenburg, its foundation by Arnulph, 22.
St. Peter at Thorhout, its foundation by Arnulph, 22.
St. Peter, the Church of, 75.
Ste. Walburge, 407.
Sanctuary of the Precious Blood, the, 96;
its foundation by Count Robert of Jerusalem, 99.
Shoemakers' Hall, 309.
Sluys, bombardment and capture by English, 217;
demand made by Bruges for the surrender of its fleet and town, 232;
expulsion of Bruges' burghers from the town, 232, 233;
siege raised, 239.
Smiths' Chapel, 309.
Sohier of Courtrai, his election as regent, 193;
his siege, 194.
Steeples, 331.
Straten, the house of, its feud with the house of Erembald, 41;
their flight from Flanders after the murder of Charles the Good, 48;
seizure of Bertulph's palace, 63.
Stubbs, Dr., his theory regarding a letter
addressed from England to Arnulph, 23.
Suger, Abbot of St. Denis, his life of Charles the Good, contained in his work
on the Acta of Louis the Fat, 40.
T
Tancmar, head of the house of Erembald, 41.
Thémard, Châtelain of Brudburch, his attempt to avenge his master, Charles
the Good, and resultant death, 48.
Theophilus, the monk, 340.
Thorhout, Baldwin's castle there, used to
store the relics of St. Donatian, 11.
Trees, the, in and near Bruges, 134, 135.
V
Van Artevelde, 192;
prosperity of Flanders under his rule, and agreement
with Edward III. of England, 193;
his setting out for Bruges from Ghent, 199;
triumph over a drunken rabble from Bruges, 200;
generous treatment of the conquered town, 201;
conditions, 202;
and government, 202, 203;
death, 203.
Van Bassevelde, Sheriff, spokesman of the City Fathers of Bruges, 272.
Van der Weyden, 339, 364-7.
Van Oudenaerde, Ian, his architecture, 99.
Verschelde, his opinion of Gothic architecture, 326.
Ville, Hôtel de, 205-7, 306, 398.
Vredius, his _Flandrica Ethnica_, 40.
W
Walbert's life of Charles the Good, 39.
Walbert quoted, 60, 61, 68, 69, 71, 77.
Walter quoted, 66, 78.
Walter of Straten, his refusal to fight Richard of Raeske, 43.
Walter, Archdeacon of Tournai, his life of Charles the Good, 39.
Walter, the son of the Châtelain of Ardenburg, his execution, 70.
Wauters, 337.
Weale, Mr., his opinion of Gothic architecture, 326;
discovery of frescoes at Bruges, 338.
Wegener, Dr., his opinion regarding Charles the Good, 52.
Wegener, his life of Charles the Good in Danish, 40;
theory about Straten-Erembald feud, 41.
Wehrgeld, the, 106.
Willemszuene, Nicholas, 325.
William Cliton, reign in Flanders, 82-9;
mode of government and its effect on Bruges, 85;
poverty and attempted taxation, 86;
cause lost, 87;
victory at Axpoel Heath, and death, 88.
William of Juliers, Provost of Maestricht,
his leadership of Flemish patriots, 149;
demand that the sword of Guy of Dampierre should be surrendered, 153;
exhortation to his burghers, 155;
trophies sent to the Church of St. Mary to
commemorate the victory of Courtrai, 160.
William of Löo, 46, 48, 81;
his denunciation, and loss of Flemish throne, 82.
William the Norman, lured to destruction and murdered by Baldwin Bladzo, 25.
'Winged Lie,' The (_see_ Walter of Straten).
Y
Ypres, panic of the burghers at the news of the Karls' defeat, 188;
alliance with Bruges and Ghent, 192.
Z
Zannekin, Nicholas, leader of the Karls against
the misrule of Louis II. of Nevers, 178;
hailed as the saviour of his country, 179;
governorship of Ypres, 182;
leadership of the Karls, 186;
death, 188.
Zeven Torens, De, 319, 320.
Zitter, Peter de, 266.
Zwyn, its silting up, 198, 246, 249, 389.
EDINBURGH
COLSTONS LIMITED
PRINTERS
* * * * *
FOOTNOTES:
[1] _See_ BOLL. ACTA SS., VI. FEB. _Vita S. Amandi auctore Baudemundo
ejus discipulo_.
[2] _See_ TAINE, _l'Ancien Régime_, livre 1er, ch. I., § II.
[3] _See_ Genealogical Table I.
[4] _Memorials of St. Dunstan._ Rolls Series. Introduction.
[5] _Epistola ad Arnulfum Comitem_ (MS. Cotton, Tiberius A. 15, fo.
155b).
[6] _See_ Genealogical Table I.
[7] The marriage of King Ethelwolf with Judith was not consummated.
[8] Charles's palace occupied the site of the present Palais de
Justice.
[9] Bertulph's house occupied the site of that portion of Government
House which gives on the _rue Breidel_.
[10] Charles is always depicted in red.
[11] A name given by the Karls to the feudal lords.
[12] In the _rue Breidel_. The Boterbeke has been vaulted over for
centuries, and of course the bridge no longer exists; the gates too
have disappeared, but the holes into which the bolts were slipped are
still to be seen in the facade of a house on the left-hand side at
the further end of the street, which once formed part of the ancient
gateway.
[13] Immediately after the murder, Bertulph had sent letters to the
Bishop of Tournai containing evidence which he deemed sufficient to
prove his innocence. These letters never reached their destination.
Bertulph's messenger, a monk of Eeckhout Abbey, had hardly left Bruges
when he fell into the hands of the Isegrins. _See_ also p. 59.
[14] The ruins of this monastery, most picturesquely situated, are
well worth a visit. The huge brick barn with magnificent timber roof,
a splendid specimen of thirteenth-century architecture, and some other
out-buildings are still intact and still fulfil their original purpose.
[15] _See_ p. 72, footnote.
[16] _See_ Genealogical Table II.
[17] A nephew of Bertulph's.
[18] A vagabond of any description.
[19] _See_ Genealogical Table III.
[20] _See_ Genealogical Table III.
[21] _See_ Genealogical Table IV.
[22] GESTA TREVIR. _Arch. ap. Martène, Coll. Ampliss._, iv., p. 363.
_See_ KERVYN DE LETTENHOVE, _Histoire de la Flandre_, p. 77, vol. ii.
[23] The French party--supporters of the lily.
[24] The Nationalists--supporters of the lion of Flanders.
[25] _See_ Genealogical Table IV.
[26] _See_ KERVYN DE LETTENHOVE. _Histoire de Flandre_, livre 9e,
tome ii., p. 113.
[27] See _Oud. Vlaemsche liederen_, published by Abbé Carton, p. 154.
[28] _Corp. Chr. Fl._ i., p. 190.
[29] _See_ KERVYN, vol. ii., p. 262.
[30] _See_ GREEN'S _Short History of the English People_, chap, v.,
sec. i., p. 218.
[31] Chronicles of Boucecault.
[32] Monk of St. Denis.
[33] _Rel. de St. Denis_, iv. 6.
[34] See _Rel. de St. Denis_, xxviii. 30, Monstrelet I.
[35] KERVYN DE LETTENHOVE. _Histoire de Flandre_, livre 14me, tom.
iii., p. 239.
[36] Ann. Nov., ap. Martène, Ampliss. Coll., v. Col. 621; Lettre MS.
de Rodolphe Agricola, 1 Nov. 1482.
[37] KERVYN. Livre 19e, vol. iv., p. 247.
[38] _See_ Genealogical Table V.
[39] See p. 287.
[40] GACHARD. _Lettres inédites de Maximilian_, i., p. 80.
[41] _Chronique de Despars_, vol. iv., p. 178.
[42] The freehold of this property is still held by a descendant of
the Adornes family.
[43] See _Revue de l'Art Chrétien_, 1892, p. 396.
[44] See _Revue des Deux Mondes_, June 15, 1900. _De van Eyck à Van
Dyck._
[45] _Revue de l'Art Chrétien_, 1900, 4me livr. _Les Frères van
Eyck_, JAMES WEALE.
[46] _See_ LÜBKE. _History of Art_, vol. ii., p. 326.
[47] This lady followed her husband's calling. Mr. Henry Willett of
Brighton is the possessor of three beautiful miniatures in the form
of a triptych, which are certainly her work. The central panel shows
the Madonna and Child, and in the background the old manor house at
Oostcamp of Louis of Gruthuise.
[48] This date has every appearance of being authentic, but it may
have been added later.
[49] _See_ DE LABORDE. _Les Ducs de Bourgogne. Memoriaux de Jean
Robert, Abbé de Saint-Aubert._
[50] _Les Ducs de Bourgogne. Etude sur les lettres, les arts et
l'industrie pendant le quinzième siècle_, vol. ii., Preface, p. xliv.
* * * * *
Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:
chatelaincy=> châtelaincy {pg 35}
first ecclesastical preferment=> first ecclesiastical preferment {pg 36}
Nothwithstanding=> Notwithstanding {pg 40}
the indentity of their name=> the identity of their name {pg 77}
Lady of Dadizeelle=> Lady of Dadizeele {pg 260}
franctically shouting=> frantically shouting {pg 286}
nothwithstanding all this=> notwithstanding all this {pg 303}
series of mauuscripts=> series of manuscripts {pg 335}
execucution by his daughter Jeanne=> execution by his daughter Jeanne
{pg 411}
End of Project Gutenberg's The Story of Bruges, by Ernest Gilliat-Smith