are like a Jelly or Starch that is made with a cast of Blue in it; they
Swim like a small Sheep's Bladder above the Water, downwards there
are long Fibrous Strings, some whereof I have found near half a yard
long. This I take to be a sort of Sea-Plant, and the strings its Roots
growing in the Sea, as Duck-weed does in Ponds. It may be reckon'd
among the Potential Cauteries; for when we were one day becalm'd,
getting some to make Observations thereof, the sportful People rub'd it
on one anothers Hands and Faces, and where it touch'd it would make it
look very Red, and make it smart worse than a Nettle. In my return for
_England_ we struck a Hauksbill Turtle, in whose Guts I found many of
these Carvels; so that it's manifest they feed thereon. 'Tis commonly
asserted by the Seamen, that they can smell the Pines at _Virginia_
several Leagues at Sea before they see Land, but I could receive no
Satisfaction as to this Point; I could not discern any such thing when
at a moderate distance, I fear much of this may be attributed to Fancy;
for one Day there came three or four full scent to tell me they were
certain they smelt the Pines; but it afterwards prov'd that we were
at that time 200 Leagues from the Shoar, so that I was satisfied that
was therefore meer Fancy. Indeed we thought, by the general Accounts
of the Ship, that we had been just on the Coast, but all were deceived
by a Current we met with, that at that time set about South-East, or
East South-East, which when once becalmed we tried thus: We hoised out
a Boat, and took one of the Scuttles that cover'd one of the Hatches
of the Ship, tying thereto a great Weight, and a strong long Rope, we
let it sink a considerable depth, and then fastening it to the Boat,
it serv'd as an Anchor, that the Boat could not drive; then with the
Glass and log Line we found the Current set, as I say, Eastward, at
the rate of a Mile and a half an Hour. This Current is of mischievous
Consequence, it does not always run one way, but as it sets sometimes
as we proved Easterly, so does it, as they say, set at other times
Westerly, whereby many Ships have been lost; for then the Ships being
before their Accounts, they fall in with the Land before they are
aware. Thus one Year many Ships were lost on Cape _Hattarasse_, and
thereabouts.
_Of the AIR._
The Cape called _Cape Henry_, lies in 36½ of the Northern Latitude.
The Air and Temperature of the Seasons is much govern'd by Winds in
_Virginia_, both as to Heat and Cold, Dryness and Moisture, whose
Variations being very notable, I the more lamented the loss of my
Barometers and Thermometers, for considerable Observations might be
made thereby, there being often great and suddain Changes. The Nore
and Nore-West are very nitrous and piercing, cold and clear, or else
stormy. The South-East and South hazy and sultry hot: Their Winter
is a fine clear Air, and dry, which renders it very pleasant: Their
Frosts are short, but sometimes very sharp, that it will freeze the
Rivers over three Miles broad; nay, the Secretary of State assured me,
it had frozen clever over _Potomack_ River, over against his House,
where it is near nine Miles over: I have observed it freezes there the
hardest, when from a moist South East, on a sudden the Wind passing
by the Nore, a nitrous sharp Nore-West blows; not with high Gusts,
but with a cutting brisk Air; and those Vails then that seem to be
shelter'd from the Wind, and lie warm, where the Air is most stagnant
and moist, are frozen the hardest, and seized the soonest, and there
the Fruits are more subject to blast than where the Air has a free
Motion. Snow falls sometimes in pretty quantity, but rarely continues
there above a Day or two: Their Spring is about a Month earlier than in
_England_; in _April_ they have frequent Rains, sometimes several short
and suddain Gusts. _May_ and _June_ the Heat encreases, and it is much
like our Summer, being mitigated with gentle Breezes that rise about
9 of the Clock, and decrease and incline as the Sun rises and falls.
_July_ and _August_ those Breezes cease, and the Air becomes stagnant,
that the Heat is violent and troublesome. In _September_ the Weather
usually breaks suddenly, and there falls generally very considerable
Rains. When the Weather breaks many fall Sick, this being the time of
an Endemical Sickness, for Seasonings, Cachexes, Fluxes, Scorbutical
Dropsies, Gripes, or the like, which I have attributed to this Reason.
That by the extraordinary Heat the ferment of the Blood being raised
too high, and the Tone of the Stomach relaxed, when the Weather breaks
the Blood palls, and like over-fermented Liquors is depauperated, or
turns eager and sharp, and there's a crude Digestion, whence the named
Distempers may be supposed to ensue. And for confirmation, I have
observed the Carminative Seeds, such as warm, and whose Oil sheaths
the acid Humors that ever result from crude Digestions. But Decoctions
that retain the Tone of the Stomach, as I suppose, by making the
little Glands in the Tunicles of the Stomach, squeeze out their Juice,
(for what is bitter may be as well offensive to the Stomach, as to
the Palate) and then Chalibiates that raise the decayed Ferment, are
no bad Practice; after which, I conceive, Armoniack Spirits might be
very beneficial. But their Doctors are so Learned, that I never met
with any of them that understood what Armoniack Spirits were: Two or
three of them one time ran me clear down by consent, that they were
Vomitive, and that they never used any thing for that purpose but
Crocus Metallorum, which indeed every House keeps; and if their Finger,
as the Saying is, ake but, they immediatly give three or four Spoonfuls
thereof; if this fail, they give him a second Dose, then perhaps Purge
them with 15 or 20 Grains of the Rosin of Jalap, afterwards Sweat them
with _Venice_ Treacle, Powder of Snake-Root, or _Gascoin_'s Powder;
and when these fail _conclamatum est_. But to return, 'Tis wonderful
what influence the Air has over Mens Bodies, whereof I had my self
sad assurances; for tho' I was in a very close warm Room, where was
a Fire constantly kept, yet there was not the least Alteration or
Change, whereof I was not sensible when I was sick of the Gripes, of
which Distemper I may give a farther account in its proper place. When
a very Ingenious Gentlewoman was visited with the same Distemper, I
had the opportunity of making very considerable Observations. I stood
at the Window, and could view the Clouds arise: For there small black
fleeting Clouds will arise, and be swiftly carry'd cross the whole
Element; and as these Clouds arose, and came nigher, her Torments were
encreased, which were grievous as a labouring Womans; there was not the
least Cloud but lamentably affected her, and that at a considerable
distance; but by her Shrieks it seemed more or less, according to the
bigness and nearness of the Clouds. The Thunder there is attended often
with fatal Circumstances: I was with my Lord _Howard_ of _Effingham_
the Governour, when they brought Word that one Dr. _A._ was killed
therewith, after this manner: He was Smoaking a Pipe of Tobacco, and
looking out at his Window when he was struck dead, and immediately
became so stiff, that he did not fall, but stood leaning in the Window,
with the Pipe in his Mouth, in the same posture he was in when struck:
But this I only deliver as Report, tho' I heard the same Account from
several, without any contradicting it. These things are remarkable,
that it generally breaks in at the Gable end of the Houses, and often
kills Persons in, or near the Chimneys range, darting most fiercely
down the Funnel of the Chimney, more especially if there be a Fire, (I
speak here confusedly of Thunder and Lightning) for when they do any
Mischief, the Crash and Lightning are at the same Instant, which must
be from the nearness of the Cloud. One time when the Thunder split
the Mast of a Boat at _James_ Town, I saw it break from the Cloud,
which it divided in two, and seem'd as if it had shot them immediatly
a Mile asunder, to the Eye: It is dangerous when it Thunders standing
in a narrow Passage, where there's a thorough Passage, or in a Room
betwixt two Windows; tho' several have been kill'd in the open Fields.
'Tis incredible to tell how it will strike large Oaks, shatter and
shiver them, sometimes twisting round a Tree, sometimes as if it struck
the Tree backwards and forwards. I had noted a fine spreading Oak in
_James Town_ Island, in the Morning I saw it fair and flourishing, in
the Evening I observed all the Bark of the Body of the Tree, as if it
had been artificially peel'd off; was orderly spread round the Tree,
in a Ring, whose Semidiameter was four Yards, the Tree in the Center;
all the Body of the Tree was shaken and split, but its Boughs had all
their Bark on; few Leaves were fallen, and those on the Boughs as
fresh as in the Morning, but gradually afterwards withered, as on a
Tree that is fallen. I have seen several vast Oaks and other Timber
Trees twisted, as if it had been a small Willow that a Man had twisted
with his Hand, which I could suppose had been done by nothing but the
Thunder. I have been told by very serious Planters, that 30 or 40
Years since, when the Country was not so open, the Thunder was more
fierce, and that sometimes after violent Thunder and Rain, the Roads
would seem to have perfect casts of Brimstone; and 'tis frequent after
much Thunder and Lightning for the Air to have a perfect Sulphurious
Smell. Durst I offer my weak Reasons when I write to so great Masters
thereof, I should here consider the nature of Thunder, and compare
it with some Sulphurious Spirits which I have drawn from Coals, that
I could no way condense, yet were inflamable; nay, would burn after
they pass'd through Water, and that seemingly fiercer, if they were
not over-power'd therewith. I have kept of this Spirit a considerable
time in Bladders; and tho' it appeared as if they were only blown
with Air, yet if I let it forth, and fired it with a Match or Candle,
it would continue burning till all were spent. It might be worthy
Consideration likewise, whether those frequent Thunders proceeded from
the Air's being more stagnant, the motion of the Winds being impeded
by the Trees, or whether the motion of the Winds being obstructed by
them below, the motion might not be more violent aloft; and how far
that may promote inflammability, for Stacks of Hay or Corn that ferment
with moisture, never burn, unless when brisk Winds blow, that agitate
and fan the little fermenting Sparks, and often kindle them into an
actual Fire. And Observance of the Meteors there might perhaps not be
Impertinent, as both what are more rare, and what are more frequent,
as of _Gosimore_ in great abundance, and of those small Cob-webs in a
Morning, which some have supposed to be Meteors. _Ignes fatui_, tho'
there be many boggy Swamps and Marshes, are seldom, if any are seen
there. There be frequent little sorts of Whirl-winds, whose Diameter
may be sometimes not past two or three Yards, sometimes forty, which
whisking round in a Circle, pass along the Earth, according to the
motion of the Cloud, from whence they issue; and as they pass along
with their gyrous or circular motion, they carry aloft the dry Leaves
into the Air, which fall again often in places far remote. I have
seen them descend in a calm Sun-shine Day, as if they had come from
the Heavens in great Showers thereof, so that all the Elements seem'd
filled therewith. And I could perceive them to descend from on high as
far as I could possibly discern a Leaf. I remember a roguish Expression
of a Seaman, otherwise silly enough, who wondering thereat, cry'd out,
_Sure now 'tis manifest there is a World above!_ and now with them 'tis
the Fall of the Leaf. But to proceed, I thought this made it manifest,
whence many preternatural Showers have happen'd. I remember at Sir
_Richard Atherton_'s in _Lancashire_, some few Years ago, there fell
a great number of the Seeds of Ivy-berries; at first we admir'd what
they were, for they were cover'd with a thin Skin that was red, and
resembled the Figure of a small Wheat Corn; but afterwards they fully
manifested what they were; for many sprouted and took Root. I suppose
they were carry'd aloft by some such Whirl-wind, and let fall there. I
have purposely gone into the place where I perceived this Gust, which
is notorious enough by the Noise it makes, with rattling the Leaves as
it carries them aloft, and have found a fine sharp Breeze of Wind.
_Yours_, &c.
Mr. _Clayton_'s second Letter, containing his farther Observations
on _Virginia_.
Being honour'd with the Thanks of the Society for my last, and
receiving by my worthy Friend Dr. _Moulin_ their Commands to proceed,
I have added here my Observations of the Waters, and part of the Earth
and Soil. I shall wave both Complements and Apologies, since I have
greater Respect and Honour for the Society than I can possibly express,
and have no reason to suspect their Favour, whose Candidness I so
signally proved in my last.
_Of the WATER._
'Twixt the two Capes, the Southern, call'd the _Cape Henry_, the more
Northerly call'd _Cape Charles_, there runs up a great Bay, call'd the
Bay of _Cheesepeak_; nine Leagues over in some places, in most Seven,
lying much West, Nore and South, dividing _Virginia_ into two unequal
Parts. On the East side of this Bay there lies a narrow neck of Land,
which makes the Counties of _Northampton_ and _Accomack_. On the West
side of the Bay there branches forth four great Rivers, _James River_,
_York River_, _Rapahanack_ and _Potomack_, that rise from a ridge of
Mountains, whereof more in the Sequel. These Rivers plentifully water
all the other parts of _Virginia_, emptying themselves into the great
Bay. The Mouth of _James River_, which is the most Southerly of them,
the Mouth of _Potomack_, which is the most Northerly, may be a hundred
Miles distance: But as I have been credibly inform'd that the Falls
of _James River_ are not past thirty Miles from _Potomack_, which is
a vast large River nine Miles over in many places. I have been told
it was Navigable nigh two hundred Miles, much higher than any of the
other Rivers: Whence I conclude in future times, it will be the most
considerable for Trade when the Country comes to be inhabited further
up into the main Land. The other Rivers are much about three Miles over
a piece. And _James River_ is Navigable at least eighty Miles. Within
four or five Miles of _James Town_, _James River_ and _York River_
are not past four or five Miles asunder. Yea, Sloops of considerable
Carriage may Sail up the Branches of the two Rivers, till they come
within a Mile the one of the other; for I take it to be no more from
Col. _Bollards_ to Major _Troop_'s Landing, and I believe they may come
much what as near again as Col. _Coles_, and several other places.
_York_ River is distant from _Rapahanack_ in some places not past
ten or twelve Miles, _Rapahanack_ from _Potomack_ not past seven
Miles in one place, tho' it may be sixty in others. The Heads of the
Branches of the Rivers interfere and lock one within another, which I
think is best expressed after the manner that an _Indian_ explained
himself once to me, when I enquired how nigh the Rivers of _Carolina_,
_Virginia_ and _Maryland_ arose out of the Mountains? from those that
ran Westerly on the other side of the Mountains, he clapt the Fingers
of one Hand 'twixt those of the other, crying, they meet thus; the
Branches of different Rivers rising not past a hundred Paces distant
one from another: So that no Country in the World can be more curiously
watered. But this conveniency, that in future times may make her like
the _Netherlands_, the richest place in all _America_, at the present
I look on the greatest Impediment to the advance of the Country, as it
is the greatest Obstacle to Trade and Commerce. For the great number
of Rivers and the thinness of the Inhabitants distract and disperse a
Trade. So that all Ships in general gather each their Loading up and
down an hundred Miles distant; and the best of Trade that can be driven
is only a sort of _Scotch_ Peddling; for they must carry all sort of
Truck that trade thither, having one Commodity to pass off another.
This (_i. e._) the number of Rivers, is one of the chief Reasons why
they have no Towns; for every one being more sollicitous for a private
Interest and Conveniency, than for a publick, they will either be for
making forty Towns at once, that is, two in every Country, or none at
all, which is the Countries Ruin. But to return, The Tides in these
Rivers regularly ebb and flow about two Foot perpendicular at _James
Town_; there is there, as they call it, a Tide and half Tide, that
is, it flows near two hours along by the Shoar, after that it is ebb
in the Channel, and again it ebbs near two Hours by the Shoar, after
that it is Flood in the Channel. This is great advantage to the Boats
passing up and down the River. I suppose this is caused by many Creeks
and Branches of the Rivers, which being considerable many, tho' only
three or four Miles long, yet as broad as the _Thames_ at _London_;
others ten Miles long, some above twenty, that have little fresh Water
which they carry of their own, but their Current primarily depending
upon the Flux and Re-flux of the Sea. So that after the Tide is made
in the Channel, it flows by the Shoar a considerable time afterwards,
being that those Creeks are still to fill, and therefore as it were
draws up a Source upwards by the Shoar; and likewise when the Tide
returns in the Channel, the Creeks that could not so readily disburse
their Water, being still to empty themselves, they make an ebbing by
the Shoar a considerable time after that it is Flood, as I say, in
the Channel. So far as the Salt Waters reach the Country is deemed
less healthy. In the Freshes they more rarely are troubled with the
Seasonings, and those Endemical Distempers about _September_ and
_October_. This being very remarkable, I refer the Reason to the more
piercing Genius of those most judicious Members of the Society: And
it might perhaps be worthy the Disquisition of the most Learned to
give an Account of the various alterations and fatal effects that the
Air has on humane Bodies, especially when impregnated with a Marine
Salt; more peculiarly when such an Air becomes stagnant: This might
perhaps make several beneficial Discoveries, not only in relation to
those Distempers in _America_, but perhaps take in your _Kentish_
Agues, and many others remarkable enough in our own Nation. I lately
was making some Observations of this nature, on a Lady of a delicate
Constitution, who living in a clear Air, and removing towards the
Sea-Coast, was lamentably afflicted therewith, which both my self and
others attributed to this Cause, she having formerly upon her going
to the same, been seized in the same manner. But to return: There is
one thing more in reference to this very thing very remarkable in
_Virginia_, generally twice in the Year, Spring and Fall, at certain
Spring-Tides, the most of the Cattle will set on gadding, and run, tho'
it be twenty or thirty Miles, to the River to drink the Salt Water, at
which time there's scarce any stopping of them; which the People know
so well, that if about those times their Herds are stray'd from their
Plantations, without more sollicitation they go directly to the Rivers
to fetch them home again. As for the Waters in the Springs in general,
they are, I think, somewhat more eager than those in _England_. In
that I have observed, they require some quantity more of Malt to make
strong Beer than our _English_ Waters, and will not bear Soap. I have
try'd several by infusing of Galls, and found little difference in the
Colours, turning much what the Colour of common Sack in Taverns. I
tried two Wells at Col. _Birds_, by the Falls of _James River_, several
Wells near _James Town_, some Springs in the _Isle of Wight County_:
There's a Spring in the _Isle of Wight_, or _Nanzamond County_, vents
the greatest Source of Water I ever saw, excepting _Holy-well in
Wales_, but I had not opportunity to make Experiments thereof. I tried
likewise some Springs on the Banks of _York River_, in _New Kent_ and
_Gloucester County_, but found them vary very little as to Colour. I
could not try any thing as to their specifick Gravity, having neither
Aquapoise, nor those other Glasses I had contrived peculiarly for
making such Experiments, they being all lost with my other things.
I had Glasses blown would hold about five Ounces, others about ten
Ounces, with Necks so small, that a Drop would make a considerable
Variation; with these I could make much more critical and satisfactory
Observations as to the specifical Gravity of Liquors, having critical
Scales, than by any other way yet by me tried. I used this method to
weigh Urines, which Practice I would recommend to the Inquisitive and
critical Physicians. I had made many Observations hereof, but all Notes
were likewise lost with my other things. Yet I have begun afresh;
for there are more signal Variations in the Weights of Urines than
one would at first imagin; and when the Eye can discover little, but
judge two Urines to be alike, they may be found to differ very much
as to Weight. By Weight I find Observations may be made of Affections
in the Head, which rarely make any visible Alterations in the Urine.
I have found two Urines not much unlike differ two and twenty Grains
in the quantity of about four or five Ounces: But let them that make
these Essays weigh all their Urines when cold, lest they be thereby
deceiv'd. But to return to the Spring Waters in _Virginia_. There's a
Spring at my Lady _Berkley's_, called _Green-Spring_, whereof I have
been often told, so very Cold, that 'tis dangerous drinking thereof in
Summer-time, it having proved of fatal Consequence to several. I never
tried any thing of what Nature it is of.
There be many petrifying Waters; and indeed I believe few of the Waters
but participate of a petrifying Quality, tho' there be few Pebbles or
paving Stones to be found in all the Country. But I have found many
Sticks with crusty Congelations round them in the Ruins of Springs,
and Stones figured like Honey-Combs, with many little Stars as it were
shot in the Holes. And nothing is more common than petrefy'd Shells,
unless you would determine that they are parts of natural Rock shot
in those Figures, which indeed I rather think; but thereof hereafter.
Mr. Secretary _Spencer_ has told me of some Waters participating much
of _Alome_ or _Vitriol_ towards _Potomack_. Up beyond the Falls of
_Rapahanack_ I have heard of Poisonous Waters. But these I only mention
as a hint to further Enquiry of some others, for I can say nothing of
them my self.
_A Continuation of Mr. _John Clayton_'s Account of _Virginia_._
_Of the Earth and Soil._