to promote Quarrels and Dissentions in _Hungary_ and _Transylvania_,
so they greatly rejoyce, when the Princes of _Christendom_ are at War
one with another. This is their great time of Advantage, and they know
that it is their true Interest to pursue it, tho' they do not always,
by reason of the ill condition of their own Affairs, make use of it.
During the Civil Wars of _Germany_, the Bassa's and other Commanders
of the Army were very importunate with the grand Signior, to make a
War on that side, and to enlarge his Conquests as far as _Vienna_, no
conjuncture having been ever so favourable to consummate such a Design,
in which _Solyman_ so unhappily miscarried. They promised him an easie
Victory, assuring him that the Animosities of the Princes of the Empire
were so heightned, that there was no room left for a Reconciliation,
that he was but to go in the Head of an Army to take Possession, and
that _Austria_ would Surrender at the first News of his March towards
it. The Emperor was not to be moved at that time by these Insinuations
and plausible Discourses; being continually urged, He as often denied.
One day when they came to Renew their advice about the _German_ War, He
having given order before, that several Dogs should be kept for some
Days without Meat, commanded that they should be brought out, being
almost Starved, and Meat thrown among them, whereupon they snarled and
bit one another: In the midst of their Noise and Fighting, he caused a
Bear to be let loose in the same Area; the Dogs forgetting their Meat,
and leaving off their fighting, ran all upon the Bear, ready to Prey
upon them singly, and at last killed him. This Diversion the Emperor
gave his Bassa's, and left them to make the application.
A certain Prophecy of no small Authority runs in the Minds of all
the People, and has gain'd great Credit and Belief among them, that
their Empire shall be ruined by a Northern Nation, which has white and
yellowish Hair. The Interpretation is as various as their Fansie. Some
fix this Character on the _Muscovites_: And the poor _Greeks_ flatter
themselves with foolish Hopes, that they are to be their Deliverers,
and to rescue them from their Slavery, chiefly because they are of
their Communion, and owe their Conversion to the _Christian_ Faith to
the Piety and Zeal of the _Grecian_ Bishops formerly. Others look upon
the _Swedes_, as the Persons describ'd in the Prophecy, whom they are
most to fear. The Ground and Original of this fancy I suppose is owing
to the great Opinion, which they have of the Valour and Courage of
that Warlike Nation. The great Victories of the _Swedes_ in _Germany_
under _Gustavus Adolphus_ were loudly proclaimed at _Constantinople_,
as if there were no withstanding the shock and fury of their Arms: And
their continued Successes confirmed the _Turks_ in their first belief,
and their Fears and their Jealousies were augmented afterwards, when
_Charles Gustave_, a Prince of as heroick a Courage, and as great
Abilities in the Art and Management of War as the justly admired
_Gustavus_, entred _Poland_ with his Army, and carried all before him,
seized upon _Warsaw_ and drove _Casimire_ out of his Kingdom, and had
almost made an entire and absolute Conquest, only a few Places holding
out. This alarmed the Grand Signior and the Bassa's of the _Port_,
as if the Prophecy were then about to be fulfilled, who did not care
for the Company of such troublesome Neighbours, who might push on
their Victories, and joyning with the _Cossacks_, advance their Arms
further, and make their Country the seat of a War, which might draw
after it fatal Consequences. To prevent which, Couriers are dispatch'd
from _Constantinople_ to _Ragotski_, Prince of _Transylvania_, then in
concert with the _Sweeds_, to Command him to retire with his Army out
of _Poland_, as he valued the Peace and Safety of his own Country, and
the Friendship of the Grand Signior, whose Tributary he was, and by
whose Favour he had gain'd that Principality: And the _Crim-Tartars_,
the Sworn Enemies of the _Poles_, who at that time lay heavy upon them,
were wrought upon by the same Motives and Reasons of State, to clap
up a Peace with them, that being freed from these Distractions, they
might unite their Forces the better together, and make Head against
the _Sweeds_.
The Ambassadors of _Christian_ Princes, when they are admitted by the
Grand Signior to an Audience, (their Presents being then of course
made, which are look'd upon as due, not to say, as an Homage) are
dismiss'd in few Words, and referred by him to his _Wakil_ or Deputy,
as he usually stiles the chief _Vizir_: And a small number of their
Retinue only permitted the Honour of kissing his Vest, and then rudely
enough sent away.
The Grand Signiors keep up the State of the old _Asiatick_ Princes:
They do not expose themselves often to the View of the People, unless
when they ride in Triumph, or upon some such solemn Occasion; when they
go to the Moschs, or divert themselves in the Fields, either in Riding
or Hunting, they do not love to be stared upon, or approached. It is
highly Criminal to pry into their Sports, such an Insolent Curiosity
being often punished with Death. The Story is Famous of _Morad_ the
Third, who baiting a Bear in the old Palace with a Mastiff, and espying
three Fellows upon the Tower of _Bajazid's_ Mosch, who had planted
themselves to see the Sport, commanded their Heads to be struck off
immediately, and be brought before him, which was done accordingly.
Instances of such Capricio's are frequent in the _Turkish_ History;
this following happened during my stay at _Constantinople_.
Upon the return of Vizir _Achmet_ from _Candia_, after the Surrendry
of that City, and a happy end put by him to that tedious and bloody
War, he acquainting the present Emperor, then at _Adrianople_,
with the History of that famous Siege at large, made such terrible
Representations of their and the _Venetians_ Mining and Countermining
one another, that the Emperor was resolved out of Curiosity to see
the Experiment made of a thing, that seemed to him almost Incredible.
A Work was soon raised and undermined, and above 30 Murderers and
Robbers upon the High-Way and such like Villains were put into it, as
it were to defend it. The Grand Signior stood upon an Eminence at some
considerable distance, expecting the issue of it; upon a Signal given,
the Mine was sprung, and the Fort demolished, and the poor Wretches
torn piece-meal to his great Satisfaction and Amazement.
The Moon is the auspicious Planet of the _Turks_: According to the
course of which they celebrate their Festivals. They begin their Months
from the first appearance of it, at which time they choose, except a
delay brings a great Prejudice and Inconvenience with it, to begin
their great Actions. The Crescent is the Ensign of the Empire, which
they Paint in Banners, and place upon the Spires of their Moschs.
Next to the Day of the appearing Moon, they pitch upon _Friday_, to
fight upon, to begin a journey, and especially their Pilgrimage toward
_Mecca_, or do any thing of great Consequence, as very lucky and
fortunate.
A Relation of a Voyage from _Aleppo_ to _Palmyra_ in _Syria_; sent
by the Reverend Mr. _William Hallifax_ to Dr. _Edward Bernard_
(late) _Savilian_ Professor of Astronomy in _Oxford_, and by him
communicated to Dr. _Thomas Smith. Reg. Soc. S._
_D. Thomæ Smitho Edoardus Bernardus, S._
_Quanquam Epistolas tuas, O cor & medulla amicitiæ nostræ, & alia
munera grato animo in finum hunc recipere soleo; eas tamen _Notitias_,
quas tuo dono hodie accepi, tanquam germana & famæ nunquam marcescentis
pignora, multo chariores habeo, &, dum vivam, reverenter adservabo.
Sic enim Asianarum Ecclesiarum Pleiada e tenebris denuo excitas: sic
antiquissimorum Episcoporum sedes instauras, ut candelabrum ἑπτάλοφον
cum magno Theologo & Apocalypta iterum ardens ac fulgens videre mihi
videor. Præterea, in descriptione urbis Constantini Silentiarios,
Codinos, Gyllios, cæteros exsuperas. Fruere diu superstes hac laude,
quam suam esse maluit Sponius, & præter morem ingenuum aut fas sibi
abripere._
_Gaudeo tamen mihi jam novum adesse munus, quod tecum queam impertire
volente spero, & læto. Id est Epigrapharum Sylloge, quas a columnis
_Palmyrenis_ Charissimus amicus, _Gulielmus Hallifaxius_ pulchro
studio descripsit. Utinam _Syriaca_ plura ipse addisset sub Græcis,
& Epocham _Palmyrenam_ a _Seleuco_ victore, non ab _Alexandri_
magni obitu incepisset. Historiæ vero _Augustæ_ scriptores qui
teruntur, & _Herodianus_ Grammaticus plerasque Inscriptionum istarum
multum illustrant. Verum isthæc vix sunt nostri otii. Attamen si
hæc commiseris _Philosophicarum Transactionum_, ut nunc loquuntur,
conditoribus haud injucundum πρόπομα fuerit, donec vir illustris &
adprime doctus _D. Cuperus_ uberiora forte ediderit de urbe _Solomonis_
ejusque reliquiis. Vale vir venerabilis._
Oxoniæ _Nonis_ Octobribus
_A. D._ CIↃIↃCXCV.
* * * * *
_Reverend Sir_,
[Sidenote: _Tadmor_ Castle.]
[Sidenote: The Valley of Salt.]
Having promised you an Account of my Voyage to _Tadmor_, I cannot
now Excuse my self from being as good as my Word, whatever Censure
I may incur of having misspent my Mony and Time in search of such
unprofitable Curiosities; or what I more fear, of having made such
poor Improvements, of which a Man of larger Reading and Understanding,
might have afforded much greater Information. We departed _Aleppo_ on
_Michaelmas-day_, 1691. and in six easie Days Travel over a Desart
Country, came to _Tadmor_; Journying almost continually to the South,
with very little variation to the Eastward. As we rode into the Town,
we took notice of a Castle about half an Hours distance from it, and
so situated as to Command both the Pass into the Hills, by which we
entred, and the City too. But we could easily perceive it was no Old
Building, retaining no Footsteps of the exquisite Workmanship and
Ingenuity of the Ancients. Upon Enquiry we were informed, that it
was built by _Man-Ogle_, a Prince of the _Druces_, in the Reign of
_Amurath_ the Third, _Anno D. N._ 1585. But I know not how to give much
Credit to this Story, because I find not that either _Man-Ogle_, or
any _Drucian_ Prince, was ever Powerful in these Parts, their strength
lying on Mount _Libanus_, and along the Coast of _Sydon_, _Berytus_,
_&c._ 'Tis a Work of more Labour than Art, and the very Situation
alone is enough to render it almost Impregnable; standing on the top
of a very high Hill, enclosed with a deep Ditch, cut out of the very
Rock, over which there was only one sole Passage by a Draw-Bridge: This
Bridge too is now broken down; so that there is no Entrance remaining,
unless you will be at the Pains to clamber up the Rock, which is in
one place feasible, but withal so difficult hazardous, that a small
slip may endanger ones Life. Nor is there any thing within to be seen
sufficient to recompence your Trouble of getting up to it, the Building
being confused, and the Rooms very ill contrived. Upon the top of the
Hill there is a Well of a prodigious depth, as certainly it must be
a great way to come at Water from the top of such a Rock, the Ditch
that surrounds it, not having the least appearance of moisture therein;
which made it therefore seem more strange that a Wild Boar should rush
out thence among our Horses, when we rode up to take a more particular
View of the Place. This Castle stands on the North side of the Town,
and from hence you have the best Prospect of the Country all about.
You see _Tadmor_ under you inclosed on three sides with long Ridges
of Mountains, which open towards the East gradually to the distance
of about an Hours Riding; but to the South stretches a vast Plain
beyond the reach of the Eye. In this Plain you see a large Valley of
Salt affording great quantities thereof, and lying near about an Hours
distance from the City. And this more probably is the Valley of Salt,
mentioned 2 _Sam._ 8. 13. where _David_ smote the _Syrians_, and slew
18000 Men, than another which lies but four Hours from _Aleppo_, and
has sometimes past for it. The Air is good, but the Soil exceeding
barren, nothing green to be seen therein, save some few Palm-Trees in
the Gardens, and here and there about the Town. And from these Trees
I conceive is obtained its Name, both in Hebrew (_Tadmor_) which
signifies a Palm-Tree, and in Latin (_Palmira_;) and the whole Country
is thence denominated _Syria Palmirena_; and sometimes _Solitudines
Palmirenæ_: So that the Latins did not change but only Translate the
old Name, which therefore still obtains in these Eastern Parts, and
the more Modern is wholly unknown.
[Sidenote: _Tadmor._]
The City it self appears to have been of a large Extent, by the space
now taken up by the Ruins; but there are no Footsteps of any Walls
remaining, nor is it possible to judge of the ancient Figure of the
Place. The present Inhabitants, as they are a Poor, Miserable, dirty
People, so they have shut themselves up, to the Number of about Thirty
or Forty Families, in little Huts made of Dirt, within the Walls of
a spacious Court, which enclosed a most Magnificent Heathen Temple.
Hereinto also we entred, the whole Power of the Village, if I may so
call it, being gathered together at the Door, whether to stand upon
their Defence, in case we proved Enemies, (for some of them had their
Guns in their Hands) or out of meer Curiosity to gaze upon us, I know
not. However our Guide, who was an _Arab_, whom _Assyne_[14] their
present King had sent to Conduct us through the whole Voyage, being
a Man known among them, we had an easie Admittance, and with a great
many Welcomes in their Language were led to the _Sheck_'s House, with
whom we were to make our Abode. And to mention here what the Place
at first View represents. Certainly the World it self cannot afford
the like mixture of Remains of the greatest State and Magnificence,
together with the Extremity of Filth and Poverty. The nearest Parallel
I can think of, is that of the Temple of _Baal_, destroyed by _Jehu_,
and converted into a Draught-House, 2 _Kings_ 10. 27. And if, what is
not improbable, this very Place was a Temple of _Jupiter Belus_, the
Similitude will run upon all Four.
[Sidenote: The Temple.]
Being thus lodged within the Place, I shall begin with a Description
thereof, and proceed to what I observed remarkable without. The whole
inclosed Space is a Square of 200 Yard each side, encompass'd with a
high and stately Wall, built of large square Stone, and adorned with
Pilasters within and without, to the number, (as near as we could
compute by what is standing of the Wall, which is much the greater
part) of 62 on a side. And had not the Barbarity of the _Turks_,
Enemies to every thing that is splendid and noble, out of a vain
Superstition, purposely beat down those beautiful Cornishes both
here and in other Places, we had seen the most curious and exquisite
Carvings in Stone which perhaps the World could ever boast of; as
here and there a small Remainder, which has escap'd their Fury, does
abundantly evidence. The West side, wherein is the Entrance, is most of
it broken down, and near the middle of the Square, another higher Wall
erected out of the Ruins; which shews to have been a Castle, strong but
rude; the old Stones and many Pillars broken or sawn asunder, being
rolled into the Fabrick, and ill cemented. Within were to be seen the
Foundations of another Wall, which probably might answer this Front,
and that the _Mamalukes_, whose Workmanship it seems most likely to
have been, built the Castle here for the Security of the Place. Before
the whole length of this new Front, except a narrow Passage which is
left for an Entrance, is cut a deep Ditch, the ascent whereof on the
inner side is fac'd with Stone to the very Foot of the Wall, which
must have render'd it very difficult to have assaulted it. The Passage
to, and the Door it self is very narrow, not wider than to receive a
loaded Camel, or that two Foot-men may well walk abreast. And as soon
as you are within the first Door, you make a short turn to the Right,
and pass on to another of the like bigness, which leads into the Court.
But all this is but a new Building upon an old, and by this outward
Wall is quite shrouded that Magnificent Entrance, which belonged to
the first Fabrick; of the stateliness whereof we were enabled to judge
by the two Stones which supported the sides of the great Gate, each
of which is 35 Foot in length, and artificially carved with Vines and
clusters of Grapes, exceeding bold and to the Life. They are both
standing, and in their Places, and the distance between them, which
gives us the wideness of the Gate 15 Foot. But all this is now walled
up to the narrow Door before mentioned. Over the little Door there is
an Inscription in _Greek_, and also another in another Language and
Character, which I never saw till in _Tadmor_, nor understand what to
make of it. From that in _Greek_ we hoped for some Information; but it
will be evident to any one that reads it, that the Stone was brought
from another Place and casually put in there. 'Tis thus:
ΤΟ ΜΝΗΜΕΙΟΝ ΤΟΥ ΤΑΦΕΩΝΟΣ ΕΚΤΙΣΕΝ ΕΞ ΙΔΙΩΝ ΣΕΠΤΙΜΙΟΣ ΟΔΑΙΝΑΘΟΣ Ο
ΛΑΜΠΡΟΤΑΤΟΣ ΣΥΝΚΛΗΤ[ΙΚΟΣ] ΑΙΡΑΝΟΥ ΟΥΑΒΑΛΛΑΘΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΝΑΣΩΡΟΥΑΥ ΤΩΤΕ ΚΑΙ
ΥΙΟΙΣ ΑΥΤΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΥΙΩΝΟΙΣ ΕΙΣ ΤΟ ΠΑΝΤΕΛΕΣ ΑΙΩΝΙΟΝ ΤΕΙΜΗΝ.
Under this was the unknown Characters, which I shall here give you
a Specimen of, it being as well as it could be taken, thus. _Vide
Figuram._
The Letters between these [] Marks were not Legible, but I have
ventured to supply the defect, as also you will see in some others
following. Neither was the Ε in ΜΝΗΜΕΙΟΝ upon the Stone, but was
doubtless omitted by mistake; and the Inscription is nothing else but
the Inscription of a Sepulchre, the like to which we saw several, as I
shall have occasion to mention some of them hereafter. And as for the
other Character, it being added almost under every _Greek_ Inscription
we saw, and rarely found alone, I am apt to believe it the Native
Language and Character of the Place, and the Matter it contains nothing
else but what we have in the _Greek_.
As soon as you are entred within the Court, you see the Remainders
of two Rows of very Noble Marble Pillars 37 Foot high, with their
Capitals of most exquisite Carved Work; as also must have been the
Cornishes between them, before by Rude and Superstitious Hands they
were broken down. Of these there are now no more than 58 remaining
entire; but there must have been a great many more, for they appear to
have gone quite round the whole Court, and to have supported a most
spacious double Piazza or Cloyster. Of this Piazza the Walks on the
West side, which is opposed to the Front of the Temple, seem to have
exceeded the other in Beauty and Spaciousness; and at each end thereof
are two Niches for Statues at their full length, with their Pedestals,
Borders, Supporters, and Canopies, carved with the greatest Artifice
and Curiosity. The Space within this once Beautiful Enclosure, which
is now filled with nothing but the dirty Huts of the Inhabitants, I
conceive to have been an open Court, in the midst whereof stands the
Temple, encompass'd with another row of Pillars of a different Order,
and much higher than the former, being above 50 Foot high. Of these
remain now but 16, but there must have been about double that Number,
which whether they enclosed an inner Court, or supported the Roof of a
Cloyster, there being nothing now of a Roof remaining, is uncertain.
Only one great Stone lies down, which seems to have reach'd from these
Pillars to the Walls of the Temple. The whole Space contained within
these Pillars we found to be 59 Yards in Length, and in Breadth near
28. In the midst of which Space is the Temple, extending in Length
more than 33 Yards, and in Breadth 13 or 14. It points North and South,
having a most Magnificent Entrance on the West, exactly in the middle
of the Building, which by the small Remains yet to be seen, seems to
have been one of the most glorious Structures in the World. I never
saw Vines and clusters of Grapes cut in Stone, so Bold, so Lively, and
so Natural, in any Place: And we had doubtless seen things abundantly
more curious, if they had not been maliciously broken to pieces. Just
over the Door we could make a shift to discern part of the Wings of a
large Spread-Eagle, extending the whole wideness thereof. The largeness
whereof led me at first to imagine it might have been rather a Cherub
over-shadowing the Entrance, there being nothing of the Body remaining
to guide ones Judgment, and some little Angels or _Cupids_ appear still
in the corners of the same Stone. But afterwards seeing other Eagles
upon Stones that were fallen down, I conclude this must have been one
likewise, only of a much larger size. Of this Temple there is nothing
at present but the outward Walls standing, in which it is observable,
that as the Windows were not large, so they were made narrower towards
the top, than they were below; but all adorned with excellent Carvings.
Within the Walls, the _Turks_, or more probably the _Mamalukes_, have
built a Roof, which is supported by small Pillars and Arches; but a
great deal lower, as well as in all other respects disproportionate
and inferior to what the Ancient Covering must have been. And they
have converted the place into a Mosque, having added to the South End
thereof new Ornaments after their manner, with _Arabick_ Inscriptions
and Sentences out of the _Alcoran_, wrote in Flourishes and Wreaths,
not without Art. But at the North End of the Building, which is shut
out of the Mosque, are Relicks of much greater Artifice and Beauty.
Whether they were in the Nature of Canopies over some Altars placed
there, or to what other use they served, I am not able to conjecture.
They are beautified with the most curious Fretwork and Carvings; in the
midst of which is a Dome or Cupola, above six Foot Diameter, which we
found above to be of one piece; whether hewn out of a Rock entire, or
made of some Artificial Cement or Composition, by Time hardened into
a Lapideous Substance, seems doubtful; though I am rather inclined
to believe the latter. It is in fine, a most exquisite Piece of
Workmanship, and on which I could have bestowed more time to view it,
than what was allowed us, hastening to other Sights.
[Sidenote: _A Mosch._]
Having taken this Survey of the Temple, we went Abroad, where our Eyes
were presently accosted with an amazing sight of a multitude of Marble
Pillars, standing scattered up and down, for the space of near a Mile
of Ground, this way and that, but so disposed as to afford no solid
Foundation to judge, what sort of Structures they formerly framed. I
pass by the Ruins of a Mosch, which directing our Course Northward, was
the first thing occurr'd to our View, after we came out of the Court
of the Temple, which though of a more Artificial Frame and Composure
than many I have seen, yet is not worthy to stop us in the way to
things both of greater Antiquity, and every way more noble and worthy
our Consideration. Having therefore past this, you have the Prospect
of such Magnificent Ruins, that if it be lawful to frame a Conjecture
of the Original Beauty of the Place, by what is still remaining, I
question somewhat whether any City in the World could have challenged
Precedence of this in its Glory. But it being impossible as they now
stand to reduce them to any regular Method, I must be forced to give
you a rude Account of them as they came in sight; and which will fall
much short of the Greatness and Stateliness which they shew to the Eye.
[Sidenote: An Obelisk.]
Advancing then towards the North, you have before you a very tall and
stately Obelisk or Pillar, consisting of seven large Stones, besides
its Capital and a wreath'd Work above it; the Carvings here, as in
all other Places, being extraordinary fine. The height of it is above
50 Foot, and upon it I conceive may have stood a Statue, which the
_Turks_, zealous Enemies of all Imagery, have thrown down, and broken
in pieces. 'Tis in compass, just above the Pedestal, 12 Foot and a
half. On each Hand of this, towards the East and West, you see two
other large Pillars, each a quarter of a Mile distant from you, which
seem to have some Correspondence one to the other. And there is a
piece of another standing near that of the East, which would incline
one to think there was once a continued row of them. The height of this
to the East I took with my Quadrant, and conclude to be more than 42
Foot high, and the Circumference proportionable. Upon the Body thereof
is the following Inscription.
Η ΒΟΥΛΗ ΚΑΙ Ο ΔΗΜΟΣ ΛΛΙΛΑΜΕΝΑ ΠΑΝΟΥ ΜΟΚΙΜΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΑΙΡΑΝΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΜΑΘΘΑ ΚΑΙ
ΑΙΡΑΝΗΝ ΤΟΝ ΠΑΤΕΡΑ ΑΥΤΟΥ ΕΥΣΕΒΕΙΣ ΚΑΙ ΦΙΛΟΠΑΤΡΙΔΑΣ Κ(ΑΙ) ΠΑΝΤΙ ΤΡΟΠΩ
(ΕΥ)ΣΕΙΜΩΣ ΑΡΕΣΑΝΤΑΣ ΤΗ ΠΑΤΡΙΔΙ ΚΑΙ ΠΑΤΡΙΟΙΣ ΘΕΟΙΣ ΤΕΙΜΗΣ ΧΑΡΙΝ ΕΤΟΥΣ Ν
Υ Λ ΜΗΝΟΣ ΞΑΝΔΙΚΟΥ.