_Advertisement._
There is now Engraving, and will speedily be Publish'd, _A New Pair
of_ GLOBES, sixteen Inches Diameter; the _Terrestrial_ has on it all
the New Discoveries that have been lately made, together with an
useful View of the General and Coasting Trade-Winds, Moonsoons, _&c._
The _Cœlestial_ has the Stars laid down from the Correctest Tables of
the best Astronomers of our Age, with eighteen Constellations never
Engraven upon any Globe.
All those Gentlemen that are willing to Furnish themselves with them,
are desired speedily to inform the Undertakers _J. Senex_ and _C.
Price_, next the _Fleece_-Tavern in _Cornhill_; They intending to fit
up no more than what are Subscrib'd for.
_Miscellanea Curiosa._
Containing a
COLLECTION
OF
Curious Travels,
VOYAGES,
AND
_Natural Histories_
OF
COUNTRIES,
As they have been Delivered in to the
ROYAL SOCIETY.
VOL. III.
_LONDON_:
Printed by _J. B._ for _Jeffery Wale_ at the _Angel_ in St.
_Paul_'s Church-yard; _J. Senex _&_ C. Price_ next the _Fleece_
Tavern in _Cornhill_, 1707.
THE
CONTENTS.
_A Journal of a Voyage from _England_ to
_Constantinople_, made in the Year, 1668.
by _T. Smith_, D. D. and F. R. S._ 1
_Historical Observations relating to _Constantinople_.
By the Reverend and Learned _Tho.
Smith_, D. D. Fellow of _Magd. Coll. Oxon._
and of the _Royal Society_._ 32
_An account of the City of _Prusa_ in _Bythynia_,
and a continuation of the Historical Observations
relating to _Constantinople_, by the Reverend
and learned _Thomas Smith_ D. D. Fellow
of _Magd. Coll. Oxon._ and of the _Royal Society_._ 49
_A Relation of a Voyage from _Aleppo_ to _Palmyra_
in _Syria_; sent by the Reverend Mr.
_William Hallifax_ to Dr. _Edward Bernard_
(late) _Savilian_ Professor of Astronomy in
_Oxford_, and by him communicated to Dr.
_Thomas Smith_, _Reg. Soc. S.__ 84
_An Extract of the Journals of two several Voyages
of the _English Merchants_ of the Factory
of _Aleppo_, to _Tadmor_, anciently call'd _Palmyra_._ 120
_Some Account of the Ancient State of the City
of _Palmyra_, with short Remarks upon the Inscriptions
found there. By _E. Halley_._ 160
_A Voyage of the Emperour of _China_ into the
Eastern _Tartary_, Anno. 1682._ 179
_The Distances of the Places thro' which we passed
in the _Eastern_ Tartary._ 195
_A Voyage of the Emperor of _China_, into the
Western _Tartary_ in the Year, 1683._ 196
_An Explanation, necessary to justify the _Geography_
supposed in these Letters._ 210
_Some Observations and Conjectures concerning
the _Chinese_ Characters. Made by _R. H._
R. S. S._ 212
_A Letter from _F. A._ Esq; R. S. S. to the Publisher,
with a Paper of Mr. _S. Flowers_, containing
the Exact Draughts of several unknown
Characters, taken from the Ruins at _Persepolis_._ 233
_A Letter from Monsieur _N. Witsen_ to Dr.
_Martin Lister_, with two Draughts of the Famous
_Persepolis_._ 236
_A Description of the Diamond-mines, as it was
presented by the Right Honourable the Earl
Marshal of _England_, to the _R. Society_._ 238
_A Letter from the _East Indies_, of Mr. _John
Marshal_ to Dr. _Coga_, giving an Account of
the Religion, Rites, Notions, Customs, Manners
of the Heathen Priests commonly called
_Bramines_. Communicated by the Reverend
Mr. _Abraham de la Pryme_._ 256
_Part of two Letters to the Publisher from Mr.
_James Cunningham_, F. R. S. and Physician
to the _English_ at _Chusan_ in _China_, giving
an account of his Voyage thither, of the Island
of _Chusan_, of the several sorts of Tea, of
the Fishing, Agriculture of the _Chinese_, _&c._
with several Observations not hitherto taken notice
of._ 269
_A Letter from Mr. _John Clayton_ Rector of
_Crofton_ at _Wakefield_ in _Yorkshire_, to the
Royal Society, _May 12 1688._ giving an account
of several Observables in _Virginia_, and
in his Voyage thither, more particularly concerning
the Air._ 281
_Mr. _Clayton_'s second Letter, containing his
farther Observations on _Virginia_._ 293
_A Continuation of Mr. _John Clayton_'s Account
of _Virginia_._ 301
_Mr. _John Clayton_, Rector of _Crofton_ at
_Wakefield_, his Letter to the _Royal Society_,
giving a farther Account of the Soil, and other
Observables of _Virginia_._ 312
_A Continuation of Mr. _Clayton_'s Account of
_Virginia_._ 337
_Part of Two Letters from Mr. _J. Hillier_, dated
_Cape Corse_, _Jan. 3. 1687/8._ and _Apr. 25.
1688._ Wrote to the Reverend Dr. _Bathurst_,
President of _Trinity Colledge, Oxon_; giving
an Account of the Customs of the Inhabitants,
the Air, _&c._ of that Place, together
with an Account of the Weather there from
_Nov. 24. 1686._ to the same Day 1687._ 356
_An Account of the _Moorish_ Way of Dressing
their Meat (with other Remarks) in _West-Barbary_,
from Cape _Spartel_ to Cape _de Geer_.
By Mr. _Jezreel Jones_._ 381
_A Letter from Mr. _John Monro_ to the Publisher,
concerning the Catacombs of _Rome_ and
_Naples_._ 394
_An accurate Description of the _Lake of Geneva_,
not long since made by a Person that had visited
it divers times in the pleasantest season of
the Year; and communicated to the Publisher
by one of his Parisian Correspondents: English'd
as followeth._ 404
_Part of a Journal kept from _Scotland_ to _New
Caledonia_ in _Darien_, with a short Account
of that Country. Communicated by Dr. _Wallace_,
F. R. S._ 413
_A Discourse tending to prove at what Time and
Place _Julius Cæsar_ made his first Descent
upon _Britain_: Read before the _Royal Society_
by _E. Halley_._ 422
_Miscellanea Curiosa._
VOL. III.
_A Journal of a Voyage from _England_ to _Constantinople_, made in
the Year, 1668. by _T. Smith_, D. D. and F. R. S._
On _Monday_ Evening _August 3, 1668._ we took Barge at _Tower-Wharf_,
and at _Greenwich_ went on Board the _Bezant_ Yacht for the _Downs_,
where we arrived the next day in the Afternoon, and went on Board
the _Leopard_ Frigat, a Ship of 56 Guns mounted, Captain _O Bryen_
Commander, appointed to carry Sir _Daniel Harvey_, his Majesty's
Ambassador to the Port of the _Ottoman_ Emperor at _Constantinople_.
Here, upon his first Arrival, the Ambassador was Complemented by Sir
_Jeremy Smith_, then riding Admiral, Sir _Edward Spragg_, and several
other Commanders of the Men of War, and afterwards Saluted with
Fifteen Pieces of Ordinance by the Admiral, to whom we returned as
many; then by the Vice-Admiral, and several other Ships. All which were
answered together at the same time with 21 in the whole.
Here we were forced to Ride for several days, the Winds being contrary.
In the _Offing_ between the _North Foreland_ and _South Foreland_ it
runs Tide and half Tide, that is, it is either ebbing Water or Flood
upon the Shore, in that part of the _Downs_, three hours, which is
grossly speaking the time of half a Tide, before it is so, off at
Sea. (For the flux and reflux of the Sea is not made exactly twice in
24 hours, but, as it appears by accurate observation, it requires an
overplus of almost 50 minutes.) The reason of this diversity of Tides,
I take to be from the meeting of the two Seas in that narrow Streight.
Oftentimes when the Wind has blown hard at N. E. or at W. or W. and
by S. there has hapn'd an alteration of the Tides in the River of
_Thames_, which ignorant People have mistakenly lookt upon as a Prodigy.
It is a most certain Observation, that where it flows Tide and half
Tide, tho' the Tide of Flood runs aloft, yet the Tide of Ebb runs under
foot, that is, close by the _ground_; and so at the Tide of Ebb, it
will flow under foot, as that great and experienc'd Sea-Commander, Sir
_H. Manwaring_, words it.
_August 9._ We sailed from the _Downs_, but were soon forced back
by distress of Weather, and came to an Anchor S. W. of the _South
Foreland_.
10. The Wind blew at S. S. W. and the Sea run very high, so that we
were in danger of losing our Cable and Anchor; the Ground, where we
rode, at 16 Fathom ½ water, being somewhat gruff.
15. The Wind coming about at W. N. W. we sailed, and were Saluted with
nine Guns from _Dover_ Castle, and seven from one Fort, and five from
another. We carried a Flag upon our Maintop, after we came out of the
_Downs_. The Wind in the Afternoon at N. E. brought us by seven of the
Clock to the _Ness_, where we lay at Anchor during the Tide of Flood;
during which time the Mariners caught good store of _Whitings_, baiting
their Hooks with raw Mutton.
16. We were in the morning athwart St. _Helen_'s Point in the _Isle of
Wight_; where we discovered Sir _Thomas Allen_ with his Squadron under
Sail, bound for the _Straits_.
17. In the morning we got to the West of _Portland_, the Wind at N. by
E. our Course lying thereupon S. S. W. but about noon, sailing over
part of the Race of _Portland_, where we met with a tumbling Sea, we
Anchored at the N. W. part in the Bay, over against the Point that
looks towards _Weymouth_. We were ashore in the Island, which seems
to be but one continued Rock; the Soil in several places not being
above five or six Inches deep, as I found by digging a hole with my
Knife; yet the Corn flourishing enough. The Castle consists of a double
Fortification; we could not observe above five Guns mounted. They told
us, that in the Island there was but 1 Church, and 4 Villages.
We weighed at twelve of the Clock at night: But
18. The Wind blowing fiercely at W. directly in our teeth, we made but
little way, and could not weather the _Start_ Point that night. The
Moon upon its first emerging above the Horizon, seemed to have a colour
like burnt Brick, the Sky very cloudy: but some Rain falling, as she
advanced higher and higher, she appeared more and more fiery.
19. We weathered the _Start_ Point by noon, but could not make much way
beyond it.
20. We got into _Plymouth_ Sound. The Cittadel, built upon a Rock, with
large Counterscarps and Bastions, returned our Salute with nine Guns.
Sir _Thomas Allen_ with his Fleet stood to the Lizard, and came not to
an Anchor.
21. Misty Weather. About eleven Clock Forenoon, and about six in the
Evening, we observed the Vapours in great quantity ascend out of the
Sea, soon covering the tops of the Mountains. Here we staid three days,
taking in some Provisions, ready prepared for us.
On _Sunday_ the 23_d_ of _August_ we weighed out of _Plymouth_ Sound,
and made the _Lizard_, a Promontory in _Cornwall_, before night: The
_Manacles_, several Rocks so called, we discerned very distinctly, it
being then low Ebb; as also the Lands end. The Wind blew fresh; and we
observed the Waves in the Night-time, as if they had been liquid Fire,
but palish.
The _Lizard_ bearing N. of us, we changed our Course, and taking leave
of _England_, we sailed into the Ocean. God of his Mercy send us a
happy Voyage.
24. We run this day thirty nine Leagues by a Compute from our Log-line.
25. We were full open with the _Bay of Biscay_. Several _Gulls_ were
hovering over the Surface of the Water to catch Fish, which swam by in
vast sholes, at about 50 Leagues distance from any Land.
At other times I have seen several Birds floating upon the Water,
which being driven by some Tempest from the Coasts of _Spain_ and
_Portugal_, have been tired in their flight, and so drowned. This
happens frequently in the great Ocean, where they meet with no Land
to fly to in several hundreds of Leagues; and sometimes even in the
_Mediterranean_, in the Mid-Seas between the _Christian_ and _Barbary_
Shores. In blowing Weather, among other Birds flying cross, we saw a
Hawk making to our Ship, then under good and swift Sail, which perched
upon the round-top of the Main-mast; which one of the Seamen espying,
he presently run up the Shrouds, and brought down the Hawk, which made
no attempt to fly away, being quite spent. But not long after, the Hawk
recovering his Spirits by rest and meat which was given him, took wing
and got away from the Fellow, notwithstanding all the care he took to
secure his new Adventure, which he hoped to have made Mony of at the
next Port that we should come to.
26. A strong Levant still blowing, and the Sea very rough and
boisterous, the Gale continuing almost right a stern, we run these 24
hours above 70 Leagues.
27. We found our selves by our observations, that we were in the
Latitude of 42 degrees 17 minutes, and began to be very sensible of our
nearer approach to the South, the Weather being excessive hot. In the
Afternoon we heard the report of several Guns fired at about seven or
eight Leagues distance, as we guessed. At eight of the Clock at night
another Gun was fired somewhat near us, which we thought might be from
an _Algerine_ Man of War, who gave a signal to his Consorts, and who
answered by several flashes of Powder. Whereupon our Trumpeters sounded
a Point of War, but no return was made. However, the Captain quartered
his Men, and the Decks were cleared, and all things made ready in order
to a Fight the next Morning; as soon as day appeared, we saw the Sea
clear, no Ships being in view any way: so that we concluded that they
were Merchant-Ships, with their Convoy, standing to the Northward.
28. Dreadful Lightnings in the Clouds towards the Evening; after which
great Dews fell: the Weather extream hot.
29. We saw a Pilot-fish swim by the sides of the Ship, and several
Bonito's and Albicores playing, as it were with their Heads above
Water. The Wind took us short in the night, and soon after there was
a stark Calm; and we had great reason to bless God for it: For had
we continued our Course that night, we had either run a-ground, or
had been cast upon the Rocks near to _Peniche_ in _Portugal_. The
fault was mis-reckoning, and haling in too soon to make the _Southern
Cape_: though the Seamen, to salve their Credit, and to excuse their
Error, which had like to have proved so fatal to us, pretended that we
were set in by a strong Current. God make us thankful for this great
Deliverance.
30. This Morning we were surprized to see our selves within four or
five Leagues of the Shore, when we had thought that we had been above
twenty. In the Afternoon, the Wind coming on fresh, we weathered the
westermost Isle of the _Barlings_. On the greatest of which, being as
we guessed, above half a Mile in length, the _Portuguese_ have built a
Fort to hinder the _Barbary_ Pirates from careening their Ships there,
or taking in fresh Water. The Land of it very high, and bore off us S.
E. by E. By it lie several Rocks. The other Islands are distant about a
League. I told five of them: the greatest of which last lie somewhere
inward to the Shore.
For two Nights together about this time (28 and 29) the Sky being
very hazy, the Sun set in a colour as deep as Blood, which was very
astonishing. We were then in the Latitude of 40.
31. Betimes in the Morning we sailed by the Rock of _Lisbon_, at some
distance, which was scarce discernible by reason of the cloudiness of
the Weather. Two _Turks_ Men of War are now plying to the Windward of
us; but dare not come up to speak with us, perceiving that we are only
laden with Powder and Bullet.
_September 1._ In the Morning we made Cape _St. Vincent_. I went on
Shore with the Lieutenant and several others in our Pinnace, which we
drove into one of the Coves; and were forced to climb up a Rock, the
ascent of which was very dangerous and troublesome; and made more so by
the Rays of the Sun, which were reflected with that vehemence, that the
Heat was almost intolerable. Having gained the top, we were met by an
Officer and some Soldiers, who had us into the Castle, the middlemost
of the three, which are built along that Promontory for the Security
of the Coasts, and entertained us with Wine, Grapes, and Marmalade.
They told us, that a Squadron of English Men of War sailed by the day
before. We here met with two Vessels belonging to _Dartmouth_, laden
with Fish from _Newfoundland_, bound for _Alicant_. All along the
Coasts, at the distance of about two or three Leagues, are several
Watch-towers built to give notice of Pirates.
Becalmed for the most part these two or three days.
5. In the Morning we weathered the Point of _Cadiz_, and came to an
Anchor in the _Bay of Bulls_, about half a League from the great
_Porgoe_; and in the Afternoon went on shore. We were entertained by
the _English_ Consul, and carried by him to view the Fortifications,
which are esteemed to be as regular as any in _Christendom_; built
in the same place where the Town had been attacked formerly by the
_English_, under the Conduct of the Earl of _Essex_ in the Reign of
Q. _Elizabeth_. Plays are usually here, as in other parts of _Spain_,
acted on a _Sunday_. During the time of our stay, was represented the
History of the Patience of _Job_, the Devil brought upon the Stage,
tempting _Job_'s Wife in a drolling way, which caused great Laughter
and Merriment among the Spectators. At _Malaga_, as the Merchants told
us, the _Sunday_ before we arrived there, was acted the _Schism of
England_ in the time of King _Henry_ the Eighth, whom the _Spaniards_
will not yet forgive, for Divorcing himself from Q. _Catherine_, their
Country-Woman.
9. We sailed from _Cadiz_.
10. This Afternoon we were forced to Anchor, not far from _Cape
Spartel_ or _Sprat_, as the Seamen call it, not being able to weather
the Point.
11. This day we came to an Anchor in _Tangier-Bay_, with Sir _Thomas
Allen_'s Squadron.
_Tangier_ lies within the Entrance into the _Strait_ of the
_Mediterranean_, in the Latitude of about 35°, 36´. It is situated in
the bottom of a Bay, and is built on the side of the Hill, overlooking
the Sea, encompassed with high Walls to the Land-ward, and commanded
by a strong Castle. The Heats would be very troublesome but for the
Sea-breezes which cool and fan the Air. In the Castle I met with a
_Roman_ Monument, erected to the Honour of _P. Belius_, a great Officer
and Souldier in _Trajan_'s time; who, among his other Titles, is
there stiled, PPO. FIG. MAURITANIAE. TINGITANAE: which since has been
taken away, and presented to the University of _Oxon_ by Sir _Hugh
Cholmondley_, and now serves to adorn the _Area_ about the _Theatre_.
The _English_ have two Churches here, (though they only make use of
one, the other being reserved against all Accidents) both of them
very neat and convenient; though not to be compared with the Church
of the _Portuguese_, retained still, according to the Articles of
Agreement, when the King of _Portugal_ made over the Right and Title,
and gave the Possession of _Tangier_ to the Crown of _England_, by
the Canons Regulars, belonging to it, which is very stately, and
adorn'd with rich Images, and supported by Marble Pillars. Toward one
end of the _English_ Church, just by the Vestiary, which had been
formerly a _Turkish_ Mosch, and afterward the Chappel of a Convent of
_Dominicans_, is a Monumental Stone-Table in _Arabick_ Characters,
containing an account of the Houses, Lands, and other Revenues
belonging to it, set up in the 743 year of the _Hegira_, that is,
of Christ 1341. The Mole is in good forwardness, they having gained
above 200 yards in the Sea, in order to the making of a good and safe
Harbour for Ships to ride in, which lye open to Wind and Waves; the
outward side to the Seaward somewhat sloping. The Garrison is in so
good a posture of Defence, that they defy _Taffiletta_ and all his
Forces. Here we met with great Civilities from Colonel _Norwood_,
Deputy-Governour, and the Gentlemen belonging to the Garrison. Sir
_Harry Mildmay_ and Mr. _Goodland_, two of King _Charles_ the First his
Judges, are here; but who have the Liberty of the Town. Now, at our
being here, come in several _Moors_ from _Arzilla_, and among the rest,
the Father of one of _Gayland_'s Wives, to get a Passage for _Algiers_.
Old _Tangier_ lyes at some little distance, where they find very
frequently in digging several pieces of _Roman_ Coin. But for the
above-mentioned, and the other Curiosities and Antiquities of
_Tangier_, of which I forbear to make mention, from the imperfect and
hasty Observations of two days, the greatest part of which being taken
up by the Entertainment of our obliging Country-men, you may consult
with great pleasure and satisfaction, a little Book called _The present
State of Tangier_, written by a very ingenious Gentleman, and printed
in the Year 1676.
There is a vast _draught_ of _water_ poured continually out of the
_Atlantick_ into the _Mediterranean_, the mouth or entrance of which
between _Cape Spartel_ or _Sprat_, as the _sea-men_ call it, and _Cape
Trafalgar_, may be near 7 leagues wide, the _current_ setting strong
into it, and not losing its force till it runs as far as _Malaga_,
which is about 20 leagues within the _Streights_. By the benefit of
this _Current_, tho' the wind be contrary, if it does not over-blow,
_Ships_ easily turn into the _gut_, as they term the _narrow passage_,
which is about 20 miles in length. At the end of which are two Towns,
_Gibraltar_ on the coast of _Spain_, which gives denomination to
the _Streight_, and _Ceuta_ on the _Barbary_ coast: at which places
_Hercules_ is supposed to have set up his _Pillars_. What becomes
of this great quantity of water poured in this way, and of that,
which runs from the _Euxine_ into the _Bosporous_ and _Propontis_,
and is carried at last through the _Hellespont_ into the _Ægæan_ or
_Archipelago_, is a curious _speculation_, and has exercised the wit
and understanding of _Philosophers_ and _Navigators_. For there is no
sensible rising of the _water_ all along the _Barbary Coast_, even down
to _Alexandria_, the land beyond _Tripoli_, and that of _Ægypt_, lying
very low, and easily overflowable. They observe indeed, that the water
rises 3 feet, or 3 feet and an half, in the _gulph_ of _Venice_, and as
much, or very near as much, all along the _Riviera_ of _Genoa_, as far
as the river _Arno_: but this rather adds to the wonder.
I here omit to speak at large of the several _Hypotheses_ which
have been invented to solve this difficulty: such as _subterraneous
vents_, cavities and indraughts, _exhalations_ by the _Sun-beams_, the
running out of the water on the _African side_, as if there were a
kind of circular motion of the water, and that it only flowed in upon
the _Christian_ shore: which latter I look upon as a meer fancy, and
contrary to all observation.
My conjecture is, that there is an _under-Current_, whereby as great
a quantity of water is carried out, as comes flowing in. To confirm
which, besides what I have said above about the difference of tides
in the _offing_, and at the _Shore_ in the _Downs_, which necessarily
supposes an _under-Current_, I shall present you with an instance of
the like nature in the _Baltick Sound_, as I received it from an able
Seaman, who was at the making of the tryal.
He told me, that being there in one of the _King's_ Frigats, they
went with their _Pinnace_ into the _middle stream_, and were carried
violently by the _Current_: that soon after they sank a _bucket_ with
a large _Cannon_ bullet to a certain _depth_ of water, which gave
check to the boats motion, and sinking it still lower and lower, the
_boat_ was driven a-head to wind-ward against the upper _Current_: the
_current_ aloft, as he added, not being above 4 or 5 _fathom_ deep, and
that the lower the bucket was let fall, they found the _under-Current_
the stronger. I designed to have made the _Experiment_ in the
_Streights-Channel_; but both times I past, the Easterly wind blew
so hard, that there was no putting out the boat with any safety; nor
indeed at those times had we any leisure for such a _Curiosity_; which
those, who liv'd at _Tangier_, might have tryed without any difficulty
or danger.
This conjecture, how likely or unlikely soever, will stand or fall
according to the certainty of the _Observations_, which shall be made
there, which I will endeavour to procure in order to the further
establishment, or utter overthrow of it.
13. We weighed out of _Tangier_ and turned into the _Strait_, though
against the Wind. The distance between _Gibraltar_ Cape, which gives
name to the _Straits_, and is joyned to the Continent of _Spain_ and
_Ceuta_ a well-built and strongly fortified Town, lying under the Hill
_Alybe_, called so by the _Greeks_, which the Seamen commonly call,
as do some _Spanish_ Writers, _Apes-hill_, from the great number of
Apes which used formerly to haunt there, (at which places _Hercules_ is
feigned to have set up his Pillars) may be about six Leagues; tho' both
Lands lying very high (for we saw the Clouds much below them) it does
not appear in the middle of the Current, out of a tall Ship, scarce
half so broad.
14. Little Wind stirring.
15. A great Mist all the Sea over, so that we could scarce see three
lengths of the Ship, which began to vanish in the Afternoon; and than
we descryed the _Cape of Malaga_ at about four Leagues distance; and
came to an Anchor that Night. The City lies under a high Hill, and
is the Seat of a Bishop, who is at this time a Natural Son of King
_Philip_ the Fourth, of the Order of St. _Dominic_. Here the Merchants
told us, that it had not rained for seven Months together, except a day
or two for an Hour: and that the _Algerines_, who were then breaking
with us, had not been able to have set a Fleet to Sea about two years
before, if they had not been furnished with Masts from _England_; and
that they were now in Expectation of another Ship laden with the same,
notwithstanding the Rupture, which was as good as began. I only make a
Query, Whether _Jews_ or _English_ Men were the Freighters?
16. The next Morning the Governour immediately returned our Salute Gun
for Gun: soon after we weighed from _Malaga_ Road, the Weather very
hot. Some Rain fell at Night, though very moderately. In the Evening,
after we had sailed about eighteen Leagues, we were becalm'd. The Sea
being quiet, we saw a great number of _Tortoises_ swimming above Water,
several _Bottle-noses_, fish of about three yards long, and very thick,
and Hawks flying over to the _Barbary_ Coast. The Hills of _Granada_
were seen plainly by us, though at a great distance.
The Wind coming Easterly, we kept at Sea, beating and plying to and
again for these four days, scarce gaining sixteen Leagues of our way,
and were forc'd to come to an Anchor in the _Bay of Adera_, where there
is a strong Cittadel, about thirty four or thirty five Leagues from
_Malaga_.
21. We passed by _Cape de Gata_: but the Levant wind still blowing,
having continued almost in that Point for above two Months, as we
computed from what they had told us at _Tangier_, we could make but
little progress in our Voyage.
25. Between three and four of the Clock in the Morning the Tornado's
began to blow, and the Wind violent for the time, with such continued
Flashes of Lightning for several hours, as that the whole Sky seemed
to be on fire, intermixed with terrible Claps of Thunder, after which
followed great showers of Rain.
25. The Wind still contrary, we descryed _Cape St. Martin_ at about
fifteen Leagues distance. Tacking about and standing off to Seaward,
next Morning 27. we found that we had lost about three Leagues of our
way.
28. We were athwart _Orlando's Gap_ within two Leagues of the Shore,
_Cape St. Martin_ bearing off us _N._ by _W._ The Wind now still; but
a swelling Sea coming from the Westward, which is usual before a Wind,
which drives the Water before it.
On _Michaelmas-day_ we were up with the Island _Ivica_, or _Ivise_, as
the Mariners call it, and the Wind blowing fair, we stood our Course;
and the next day at Noon we made the _Island Majorca_, situate over
against the Kingdom of _Valentia_, and came to an Anchor in the _Bay_
of the City, being forced in hither for want of fresh Water. In the
Afternoon the Boat was sent on shore; but the Vice-Roy would not give
us Prattick, not bringing a Patent from _Malaga_.
_Octob. 1._ The Secretary was sent with the King's Pass to the
Vice-Roy to demand Prattick, who presently summoned the Officers of
the _Sanita_. After long Debates and Delays they consented, and came
to the _Mole_ to receive him. He went directly to the Governour to
acquaint him, that we were ready to Salute the City with what number
of Guns he pleased, if he would engage upon his Honour to give us as
many. He replied, that he would give us three for five; and wondered,
that we being but a single Ship, should make such a Demand. The
Secretary told him, That we were to be treated as an Admiral, having
a Flag on our Maintop; and that the Governour of _Malaga_ had done
it. To this he said, That _Majorca_ was a Kingdom, that he was the
King's Representative, and that by Reason of the Miscarriage of his
Predecessor, when Monsieur _de Beaufort_, the _French_ Admiral was
there, he had received strict Orders from _Madrid_ not to do the
like. The Secretary replied, That we had an Ambassador on board, and
had as strict Orders, and should answer as severely for the Breach
of them. His last Answer was, That we might, with our Sails loose,
keep before the Town, till we had furnished our selves with what we
wanted. Upon receiving this Message, the Ambassador dispatched away one
_Joseph Gabriel Cortez_, a _Spaniard_, but employed by the _English_
Merchants trading to that Island, then on board our Ship, to acquaint
him, That when we were ready to go away, we would loose our Sails,
and not before. We landed within the _Mole_; the Walk upon it about
four or five Yards broad; at the Extremity of which is a very large
and stately Gate, which leads into the City. We went into the great
Church, somewhat wider than _Westminster-Abbey_, but darkish within:
the Portal very magnificent, adorned with several Marble Statues in
Niches one over another. The High Altar very plain and unadorned: but
others extraordinary rich and glorious. Not far from the City are
several Mills to grind their Olives, Oyl being the great Commodity of
the Island.
2. The next Morning we weighed, without taking any kind of notice of
the Town, sailing all along in sight of the Island, which presented
us with a pleasing and delightful Prospect; the Valleys, lying under
the Hills, fruitful of Wine and Corn. The whole Island is judged to be
about sixty Leagues in Compass, and in length about fifteen: which we
sailed from the Westermost Point, where lies the Isle _Dragovera_, at
a very little distance to the Eastermost, where there is built a small
Fort. To the S. S. E. lie several little Islands, called the _Cabreas_;
between which and _Majorca_ we steered.
3. We were athwart _Port Maon_ in _Minorca_; a fine level Country,
having but one Hill in it N. W. by W. as it bore off us. In the Evening
the Wind very scant.
4. This day, as yesterday, excessive hot.
5. In the Afternoon we descryed the Main Land of _Provence_.
6. We were over against the Islands _Hieres_ and the Highland of
_Thoulon_.
7, 8. These two Days becalmed; and the Sea extraordinary smooth.
9. We were over against the Westermost part of the _Alpes_, which we
distinctly saw at about twenty Leagues distance, and appeared far
higher than the Hills of _Granada_.
10. We sailed by _Final_ and _Ventimiglia_.
12. We came in the Morning to an Anchor over against the _Mole_, and
not far from the Lantern in _Genoa_. Having obtained Prattick of the
_Maestri della Sanita_, after a little demur about the Salute, the
Senate being assembled, and some of them protesting upon their Honours,
and ready to produce their Registers, that they never saluted the Ship
wherein was an Ambassador of _France_ or _Spain_, as not taking any
notice of the Person who did bear that Character, 'till they had first
intimation, that the Ship was arrived in their Port by its saluting the
Town. It was agreed that the Ship should Salute the Town with eleven
Guns, which they were to answer, as they did, with an equal number:
and after a little pause, they saluted the Ambassador with nineteen
more, which was answered with as many. After this, the Duke and
Senate sent the Master of the Ceremonies to wait upon the Ambassador:
who going away, returned soon after with a Present of Calves, Fowl,
Wine, Sweetmeats, _&c._ and acquainted his Lordship, that they had
deputed six of their Gentlemen to Complement him, and wait upon him;
which Civility he thought fit to refuse, desiring to be _Incognito_.
But however, going ashore, he was welcomed by the _Illustrissimi
Signiori_, the _Durazzo's_, two Brothers, the elder of which had been
Ambassador for the Republick, in the Court of _England_, and the other
at _Constantinople_, and by them carried to see the _Villas_ out of
Town. The figure of _Genoa_ is Semicircular, beginning from the Lantern
Westward, lying under an high Hill, upon the rising of which the
several Houses, built of Marble, afford a very fine Prospect, and add
much to the Beauty and Glory of the place. _Strada nuova_ perchance
is the most stately Street in the whole World. The new Church of the
_Annunciata_, built by the _Lomellini_, where a thousand may go up the
stairs abreast at the same time, for curious Painting, rich Altars,
and exactness of Architecture, incomparable. The _Duome_ also and the
Church of the _Theatins_ very stately and curious. Other matters I
purposely omit.
14. In the Evening we set Sail from _Genoa_.
Becalmed for the most part these three Days, though helped somewhat
forward by the Breezes that blew off the shore after Sun set.
18. In the Afternoon we made the Island _Gorgonia_, about nine Leagues
from _Livorne_; a little round Island, with a Castle on the top.
19. In the Morning we came to an Anchor in _Livorne_ Road, about a Mile
from the Town: the Road large and secure, especially to the Northward.
The Ambassador keeps on Board, the Governour refusing to Salute the
Ship first, though he had formerly saluted the _French_; pretending
that every Convoy might carry a Flag; and alledging that his Master,
the Grand Duke, was as great and absolute, as the Republick of _Genoa_:
and that they had rather throw themselves upon the King of _England_,
than do a thing which might prove of such an ill Consequence. Sir _John
Finch_, his Majesty's Resident, together with Sir _Thomas Baines_,
came from _Florence_ to Complement the Ambassador, and immediately
dispatched away a Courier to the Grand Duke about the Salute; who
referred the whole Affair to the Governor: and he making a Protest that
he was ready to pay all the respect which was due to the Ambassador's
Character and Quality, upon the fore-mentioned Pretensions, six days,
after our arrival, absolutely refused to Salute the Ship first.
_Livorne_ is the great Magazine of Trade for the _Levant_, being a free
Port: Merchants of all Countries residing here, _Armenians_ especially,
and _Jews_; which latter enjoy great Priviledges, without wearing any
distinct Mark in their Hats or Habits, whereby they may be known. They
are allow'd the publick Exercise of their Religion: their Synagogue
large and handsome. The Port inward has a _Mole_ for the Duke's Galleys
and other small Vessels to ride in: the Entrance of which is chained
up every Night. Hard by is the Statue of Duke _Ferdinand_ in Marble,
raised upon an high Pedestal; under which are four Slaves in Brass,
in different Postures, very large, and above the ordinary proportion,
but done with exquisite and admirable Art. Two Castles to the Seaward
well fortified: the Town Walls very high, and the four Gates strongly
guarded: below which is a Ditch of about fifteen or twenty yards over,
and very deep. No Stranger is allowed to view the Works, nor Souldier
permitted to come out of the Castles. About four thousand Slaves are
there, as the Merchants told us, who are lockt up in the _Bagno_ every
Night. The _Piazza_, where the Merchants meet, is adorned with Marble
Pillars, which sustain the Porticos: at the East end of which is the
great Church whose Roof appears very glorious, having several Circles
richly gilded and painted with curious Figures.
The broad Street is paved between two and three yards on each side with
Free-stone.
27. In the Afternoon we weighed out of _Livorne_ Road, and sailed by
the Islands _Gorgonia_ and _Capraria_, seeing _Corsica_ at a distance.
28. We lay beating at Sea all this Day, the Wind being contrary.
29. This Day we were forced back, the contrary Winds still continuing.
30. We weighed a second time, and sailed by three small Islands,
_Capraria_, _Planasia_, and _Monte Christi_. We saw also _Gigio_ and
_Sanuti_, two other small Islands near the Main: but we made but little
way, by reason of ill Weather for 4 or 5 Days.
_Novemb. 5._ At Evening we saw the Eruptions of Fire from _Stromboli_,
which lies to the N. W. of _Sicily_. Sometimes it flamed very bright
Light as a _Beacon_, at other times there appeared only a glorious kind
of Light, like that of an ordinary Star when the Air is thick and hazy.
They say that it flames most in rainy Weather.
6. In the Morning we were up within a League of it, and plainly
perceived it to smoke. It is of a round figure, and, as we gathered,
may be about three or four Miles in compass. It bore W. by S. of us.
Not far from it lye scattered several other Islands, called by the
Ancients _Æoliœ_ and _Vulcaniœ_: among which are _Lipara_, a long
flattish Island, and _Vulcanello_, which smokes most. This Afternoon we
came to an Anchor in eight Fathom Water in the _Phare_ of _Messina_,
in the mid Stream between _Scylla_ and _Charybdis_: a violent and
strong Current setting against us, and the Wind not high enough, so as
to be able to stemm it. The breadth of the _Strait_ from _Messina_
to _Rhegium_ may be about a League. The Land is very high on the
_Calabrian_ side, where are very steep Rocks, and great depth of Water,
above 150 Fathom, as they told us: but on the _Sicilian_ side, near
_Charybdis_ Shole-water, and usually an Eddy. On the Sandy Banks stands
the Phare or Watch-tower. Several Currents meeting in this narrow
Passage, cause a great rippling of the Water: and great quantity of
Water coming in, as the Winds drive, in great quantity meeting with the
Shole, is broken into Waves. The Eddies here are caused by the meeting
of the different Currents by which the Waters are sometimes carried
N. and sometimes S. the great danger is, lest they drive the Ship on
either side. We have had Lightning for seven or eight Nights together.
7. We sail'd by _Ætna_, now called _Mongibel_, where the Sea widens ten
or eleven Leagues over. Now we see plainly the Smoke briskly issuing
out of the _Crater_, the _Limbus_ of which was all black. The uppermost
part of the Mountain was covered with Snow, except some streaks of
Ashes, as we judge, which lie as it were in a Gutter, spread here and
there.
8. We espied a _Saettia_ at about 3 Leagues distance, and making up to
her, found her forsaken. The Captain sent several Seamen on board, and
carried the Vessel to _Smyrna_.
Scanty Wind for several Days: and the Lightning still continued.
13. We were up with _Cape Modona_, the Southernmost Cape of the
_Morea_, and sailed by _Coron_. The Land very high, the Hills of
_Arcadia_ lying Eastward from us. The Weather excessive hot at
this time, as it is in _England_ at _Midsummer_. We espied from
our Maintop-mast five Sail of great Ships, which we supposed to be
_Tripolines_, who did not think fit to come up and speak with us. But
afterward we heard for certain, that they were part of the _Venetian_
Fleet.
14. We lay for the most part becalmed over against _Cape Matapan_: but
in the Evening the Wind blowing fresh, we sailed between the Island of
_Cerigo_ and the Main Land of _Greece_; it being about three Leagues
over to _Cape Angelo_.
15. We entred the Arches, and steered through the North Channel,
leaving _Melo_ and _Antimelo_ on the Starboard-quarter, at some Leagues
distance.
16. Betimes in the Morning we were athwart _Negropont_, and sailed
between it and _Andros_. The _Bocca_ lies S. W. and N. E.
17. We sailed by _Chios_ or _Scio_, which is very mountainous toward
the middle. It is about four Leagues distant from _Cape Caraboroun_,
or the _Cape of the black Nose_, as the _Turkish_ word signifies,
which the Seamen, in their usual way of corrupting Names, call _Cape
Jobbernoule_, the _Corinœum_ of the Ancients, a Promontory of the
famous Mountain _Mimas_, which runs along the Southern side of the _Bay
of Smyrna_.
This Day the _Smyrna_ Fleet from _England_ comes up to us very luckily,
to our great Satisfaction and Joy.
18. We are now got into the _Bay of Smyrna_, and come to an Anchor
without the Castle, not far from St. _Jacomo's Point_, as the Seamen
call it, or rather _Sangiac Point_. In the Afternoon the Consul, with
several Gentlemen of the Factory, came to wait upon my Lord Ambassador,
and desired his Lordship to defer his Entrance into _Smyrna_ till the
Twentieth, that he might be received with greater Honour. That Evening
we heard a great howling of _Jackalls_ upon the Hills.
20. The Consul with the Nation, accompanied with his _Druggermen_ and
_Janizaries_ in their _Habit_, together with several _French_, _Dutch_
and _Genoese_ Merchants, residing in that famous Emporium, came to the
Village near the Castle, who there expected us with Horses. Upon our
going ashore, the _Leopard_ fired fifty one Guns. We made about 140
Horse; and immediately upon our setting forth, we rode for about three
Miles together under the Hill to the S. W. of _Smyrna_; the places
adjoyning set thick with Olive, Fig, and Almond-trees. Afterwards
we clambered over some rocky Ascents; but the Horses of the Country
being sure-footed, we were in no danger of falling. Some little way
we were forced to ride on the Sea-shore, and soon after came to the
Jews burying place, whose Monuments lie flat upon the ground. As soon
as we entred into the City, we found the Streets full of _Greeks_,
_Armenians_, _Turks_, and _Jews_, whom Curiosity had drawn together to
see and observe our Cavalcade; the _English_ Ships, which were in the
_Bay_, firing their Guns, as we past near the Shore. And so after three
hours riding the Ambassador was brought to the Consul's House, where
Lodgings were provided for him. During our stay we met with not only
kind, but very noble Entertainment from the worthy Gentlemen of the
Factory.
_Decemb. 8._ We took our leave of _Smyrna_, being accompanied by the
Consul and Merchants on board the _London-Merchant_, Capt. _John
Hill_ Commander, the _Leopard_ being ordered to go no further than
_Smyrna_, it being feared in _England_, that if she had sailed up to
_Constantinople_, the _Turks_ might have press'd her for their Service
in _Candia_, which they were then besieging.
9. This Morning we weighed betimes, and sailed between _Scio_ and
_Mytilene_. But on the
10. We were forced back near the long Island within the Bay, being
unwilling to go to _Scio_, the _Tripolines_ and _Turkish_ Galleys lying
there. Here we lay ten Days, expecting a fair Wind.
20. The Wind coming about and favouring us, we sailed a second time
between _Scio_ and _Mytilene_.
21. We past by _Lemnos_, and were up with the Island _Tenedos_; a fine
Champaign Country, only with one Hill toward the middle of it. The
Castle to the N. E. part of the Isle: over against which lye three
small Islands in a strait Line. Here we came to an Anchor. We saw the
Ruins of _Troas_ at a distance, but did not think it safe to go ashore.
22. The Wind coming about at S. we entred the _Hellespont_, which
may be about two Leagues and a half over. The Castles built upon
the opposite points of Land, about 11 or 12 Years before, after the
great Defeat given the _Turkish Armata_ at the _Dardanels_ by the
_Venetians_; _Cape Janizary_ on the _Asian_ side; which, with the
_Philæum_, makes a tolerable good Bay for ordinary Vessels. The
narrowest Strait of the _Hellespont_ is at the two other Castles,
distant about six Leagues, where it may be about ¾ of a Mile wide.
These the _Christians_ call the _Dardanelli_; at which are situate the
Towns, _Sestus_ and _Abydus_, famous in _Greek_ Poesie. These Castles
we saluted with our Guns and Trumpets, as we did the first: but each,
whether out of Pride, or out of Covetousness, to save the _Grand
Signior_'s Powder, return'd us no more than two Guns. The Wind blowing
very fair we sailed into the _Propontis_.
23. We passed by St. _Stephano's Point_, where we had a full view of
the S. E. Angle of _Constantinople_, which being situated upon several
Hills to a mighty advantage, what with the Cypress-Trees intermixed,
and what with the gilded Spires of the _Moschs_, yielded us a very
diverting glorious Prospect. Passing by the _Seraglio Point_, which we
saluted by a discharge of several Guns, in the mid Stream between it
and the _Tophana_, we came to an Anchor.
26. On St. _Stephen_'s Day the Ambassador landed at _Galata_, (having
before been visited by the Earl of _Winchelsea_, and the Merchants
residing there) and was received there by the _Chiaus Basha_ and the
_Vaivod_ of _Galata_, the _Janizaries_ and _Chiauses_ attending, and
was waited upon by them to his Palace: and soon after the _Kaimacam_,
or Governor of _Constantinople_, sent an Officer to Complement him upon
his Arrival; the _Grand Signior_ being then at _Larissa_ in _Thessaly_.
_January 2._ The Ambassadors, Old and New, went over to
_Constantinople_, that Morning being assigned by the _Kaimacam_ to
give them Audience, the _Chiaus Basha_ and other Officers attending at
the Water-side to receive them; Horses being brought thither for them
and their Followers to mount. This _Kaimakam Jusuph_, a little old
Man, had formerly been a Page of the Chamber, and chief Falconer, and
afterwards _Basha_ of _Silistria_. He entertained the Ambassadors and
their Company with Perfumes, Coffee, and Sherbet, and distributed about
fifteen _Koftans Orrests_ among them: after about an Hours stay they
took their leave.
Being upon the Coasts of _Greece_ about _August_ or _September_ 69. in
the Latitude of 35°. 53´. we found by our _Azimouth_ Compass, that we
had Westerly variation there 5°. 22´.
The variety of Colours of the Sea-Water at several times chiefly
depends upon the Wind and Weather, and the reflexion of the Light
upon it. It's usual and most natural Colour is a deep Green: but in
Cloudy and Rainy Weather, the Surface of the Water appears blackish.
On the _Goodwins_ upon the Tide of Flood, the Water was white, the
Waves by reason of the Shallows, meeting with opposition, and breaking
into Foam, till the Flood is well advanced. Sometimes the Water is
of a perfect Azure colour, as we observed for several Weeks in the
_Mediterranean_. The Sun shining bright upon the Water, sometimes the
upper part of the Waves appears Purplish, sometimes Reddish; though in
Shallows perchance it may receive this latter Tincture also from the
Sands which lie under it. When the Wind has freshened, and the Ship has
been under full Sail, I have observed the Waves to the head, and at the
sides of the Ship, to appear with a pale kind of brightness: and at
_Malaga_, and at my return, going on board our Ship, which lay about
half a League from the shore, at Night, the Wind then at East, the
Boats Crew letting their Oar fall roughly into the Water, diverted us
as it were with the sight of a continued Flame, raised by their rowing;
which I ascribe rather to the Saline Particles of the Sea-Water, which
were then put into a violent Agitation, than to the Spawn of Fish, as
some of our Company imagined.