Sept. 3. In 9 deg. 50' north latitude, at breakfast. Approaching the

equator on a long slant. Those of us who have never seen the equator are

a good deal excited. I think I would rather see it than any other thing

in the world. We entered the "doldrums" last night--variable winds,

bursts of rain, intervals of calm, with chopping seas and a wobbly and

drunken motion to the ship--a condition of things findable in

other regions sometimes, but present in the doldrums always. The

globe-girdling belt called the doldrums is 20 degrees wide, and the

thread called the equator lies along the middle of it.

Sept. 4. Total eclipse of the moon last night. At 1.30 it began to go

off. At total--or about that--it was like a rich rosy cloud with a

tumbled surface framed in the circle and projecting from it--a bulge of

strawberry-ice, so to speak. At half-eclipse the moon was like a gilded

acorn in its cup.

Sept. 5. Closing in on the equator this noon. A sailor explained to a

young girl that the ship's speed is poor because we are climbing up the

bulge toward the center of the globe; but that when we should once get

over, at the equator, and start down-hill, we should fly. When she asked

him the other day what the fore-yard was, he said it was the front yard,

the open area in the front end of the ship. That man has a good deal of

learning stored up, and the girl is likely to get it all.

Afternoon. Crossed the equator. In the distance it looked like a blue

ribbon stretched across the ocean. Several passengers kodak'd it. We

had no fool ceremonies, no fantastics, no horse play. All that sort of

thing has gone out. In old times a sailor, dressed as Neptune, used to

come in over the bows, with his suite, and lather up and shave everybody

who was crossing the equator for the first time, and then cleanse these

unfortunates by swinging them from the yard-arm and ducking them three

times in the sea. This was considered funny. Nobody knows why. No, that

is not true. We do know why. Such a thing could never be funny on land;

no part of the old-time grotesque performances gotten up on shipboard to

celebrate the passage of the line would ever be funny on shore--they

would seem dreary and less to shore people. But the shore people would

change their minds about it at sea, on a long voyage. On such a voyage,

with its eternal monotonies, people's intellects deteriorate; the owners

of the intellects soon reach a point where they almost seem to prefer

childish things to things of a maturer degree. One is often surprised at

the juvenilities which grown people indulge in at sea, and the interest

they take in them, and the consuming enjoyment they get out of them.

This is on long voyages only. The mind gradually becomes inert, dull,

blunted; it loses its accustomed interest in intellectual things; nothing

but horse-play can rouse it, nothing but wild and foolish grotesqueries

can entertain it. On short voyages it makes no such exposure of itself;

it hasn't time to slump down to this sorrowful level.

The short-voyage passenger gets his chief physical exercise out of

"horse-billiards"--shovel-board. It is a good game. We play it in this

ship. A quartermaster chalks off a diagram like this-on the deck.

The player uses a cue that is like a broom-handle with a quarter-moon of

wood fastened to the end of it. With this he shoves wooden disks the

size of a saucer--he gives the disk a vigorous shove and sends it fifteen

or twenty feet along the deck and lands it in one of the squares if he

can. If it stays there till the inning is played out, it will count as

many points in the game as the figure in the square it has stopped in

represents. The adversary plays to knock that disk out and leave his own

in its place--particularly if it rests upon the 9 or 10 or some other of

the high numbers; but if it rests in the "10off" he backs it up--lands

his disk behind it a foot or two, to make it difficult for its owner to

knock it out of that damaging place and improve his record. When the

inning is played out it may be found that each adversary has placed his

four disks where they count; it may be found that some of them are

touching chalk lines and not counting; and very often it will be found

that there has been a general wreckage, and that not a disk has been left

within the diagram. Anyway, the result is recorded, whatever it is, and

the game goes on. The game is 100 points, and it takes from twenty

minutes to forty to play it, according to luck and the condition of the

sea. It is an exciting game, and the crowd of spectators furnish

abundance of applause for fortunate shots and plenty of laughter for the

other kind. It is a game of skill, but at the same time the uneasy

motion of the ship is constantly interfering with skill; this makes it a

chancy game, and the element of luck comes largely in.

We had a couple of grand tournaments, to determine who should be

"Champion of the Pacific"; they included among the participants nearly

all the passengers, of both sexes, and the officers of the ship, and they

afforded many days of stupendous interest and excitement, and murderous

exercise--for horse-billiards is a physically violent game.

The figures in the following record of some of the closing games in the

first tournament will show, better than any description, how very chancy

the game is. The losers here represented had all been winners in the

previous games of the series, some of them by fine majorities:

Chase,102 Mrs. D.,57 Mortimer, 105 The Surgeon, 92

Miss C.,105 Mrs. T.,9 Clemens, 101 Taylor,92

Taylor,109 Davies,95 Miss C., 108 Mortimer,55

Thomas,102 Roper,76 Clemens, 111 Miss C.,89

Coomber, 106 Chase,98

And so on; until but three couples of winners were left. Then I beat my

man, young Smith beat his man, and Thomas beat his. This reduced the

combatants to three. Smith and I took the deck, and I led off. At the

close of the first inning I was 10 worse than nothing and Smith had

scored 7. The luck continued against me. When I was 57, Smith was 97

--within 3 of out. The luck changed then. He picked up a 10-off or so,

and couldn't recover. I beat him.

The next game would end tournament No. 1.

Mr. Thomas and I were the contestants. He won the lead and went to the

bat--so to speak. And there he stood, with the crotch of his cue resting

against his disk while the ship rose slowly up, sank slowly down, rose

again, sank again. She never seemed to rise to suit him exactly. She

started up once more; and when she was nearly ready for the turn, he let

drive and landed his disk just within the left-hand end of the 10.

(Applause). The umpire proclaimed "a good 10," and the game-keeper set

it down. I played: my disk grazed the edge of Mr. Thomas's disk, and

went out of the diagram. (No applause.)

Mr. Thomas played again--and landed his second disk alongside of the

first, and almost touching its right-hand side. "Good 10." (Great

applause.)

I played, and missed both of them. (No applause.)

Mr. Thomas delivered his third shot and landed his disk just at the right

of the other two. "Good 10." (Immense applause.)

There they lay, side by side, the three in a row. It did not seem

possible that anybody could miss them. Still I did it. (Immense

silence.)

Mr. Thomas played his last disk. It seems incredible, but he actually

landed that disk alongside of the others, and just to the right of them-a

straight solid row of 4 disks. (Tumultuous and long-continued applause.)

Then I played my last disk. Again it did not seem possible that anybody

could miss that row--a row which would have been 14 inches long if the

disks had been clamped together; whereas, with the spaces separating them

they made a longer row than that. But I did it. It may be that I was

getting nervous.

I think it unlikely that that innings has ever had its parallel in the

history of horse-billiards. To place the four disks side by side in the

10 was an extraordinary feat; indeed, it was a kind of miracle. To miss

them was another miracle. It will take a century to produce another man

who can place the four disks in the 10; and longer than that to find a

man who can't knock them out. I was ashamed of my performance at the

time, but now that I reflect upon it I see that it was rather fine and

difficult.

Mr. Thomas kept his luck, and won the game, and later the championship.

In a minor tournament I won the prize, which was a Waterbury watch. I

put it in my trunk. In Pretoria, South Africa, nine months afterward, my

proper watch broke down and I took the Waterbury out, wound it, set it by

the great clock on the Parliament House (8.05), then went back to my room

and went to bed, tired from a long railway journey. The parliamentary

clock had a peculiarity which I was not aware of at the time

--a peculiarity which exists in no other clock, and would not exist in that

one if it had been made by a sane person; on the half-hour it strikes the

succeeding hour, then strikes the hour again, at the proper time. I lay

reading and smoking awhile; then, when I could hold my eyes open no

longer and was about to put out the light, the great clock began to boom,

and I counted ten. I reached for the Waterbury to see how it was getting

along. It was marking 9.30. It seemed rather poor speed for a

three-dollar watch, but I supposed that the climate was affecting it. I

shoved it half an hour ahead; and took to my book and waited to see what

would happen. At 10 the great clock struck ten again. I looked--the

Waterbury was marking half-past 10. This was too much speed for the

money, and it troubled me. I pushed the hands back a half hour, and

waited once more; I had to, for I was vexed and restless now, and my

sleepiness was gone. By and by the great clock struck 11. The Waterbury

was marking 10.30. I pushed it ahead half an hour, with some show of

temper. By and by the great clock struck 11 again. The Waterbury showed

up 11.30, now, and I beat her brains out against the bedstead. I was

sorry next day, when I found out.

To return to the ship.

The average human being is a perverse creature; and when he isn't that,

he is a practical joker. The result to the other person concerned is

about the same: that is, he is made to suffer. The washing down of the

decks begins at a very early hour in all ships; in but few ships are any

measures taken to protect the passengers, either by waking or warning

them, or by sending a steward to close their ports. And so the

deckwashers have their opportunity, and they use it. They send a bucket

of water slashing along the side of the ship and into the ports,

drenching the passenger's clothes, and often the passenger himself. This

good old custom prevailed in this ship, and under unusually favorable

circumstances, for in the blazing tropical regions a removable zinc thing

like a sugarshovel projects from the port to catch the wind and bring it

in; this thing catches the wash-water and brings it in, too--and in

flooding abundance. Mrs. L, an invalid, had to sleep on the locker--sofa

under her port, and every time she over-slept and thus failed to take

care of herself, the deck-washers drowned her out.

And the painters, what a good time they had! This ship would be going

into dock for a month in Sydney for repairs; but no matter, painting was

going on all the time somewhere or other. The ladies' dresses were

constantly getting ruined, nevertheless protests and supplications went

for nothing. Sometimes a lady, taking an afternoon nap on deck near a

ventilator or some other thing that didn't need painting, would wake up

by and by and find that the humorous painter had been noiselessly daubing

that thing and had splattered her white gown all over with little greasy

yellow spots.

The blame for this untimely painting did not lie with the ship's

officers, but with custom. As far back as Noah's time it became law that

ships must be constantly painted and fussed at when at sea; custom grew

out of the law, and at sea custom knows no death; this custom will

continue until the sea goes dry.

Sept. 8.--Sunday. We are moving so nearly south that we cross only about

two meridians of longitude a day. This morning we were in longitude 178

west from Greenwich, and 57 degrees west from San Francisco. To-morrow

we shall be close to the center of the globe--the 180th degree of west

longitude and 180th degree of east longitude.

And then we must drop out a day-lose a day out of our lives, a day never

to be found again. We shall all die one day earlier than from the

beginning of time we were foreordained to die. We shall be a day

behindhand all through eternity. We shall always be saying to the other

angels, "Fine day today," and they will be always retorting, "But it

isn't to-day, it's tomorrow." We shall be in a state of confusion all the

time and shall never know what true happiness is.

Next Day. Sure enough, it has happened. Yesterday it was September 8,

Sunday; to-day, per the bulletin-board at the head of the companionway,

it is September 10, Tuesday. There is something uncanny about it. And

uncomfortable. In fact, nearly unthinkable, and wholly unrealizable,

when one comes to consider it. While we were crossing the 180th meridian

it was Sunday in the stern of the ship where my family were, and Tuesday

in the bow where I was. They were there eating the half of a fresh apple

on the 8th, and I was at the same time eating the other half of it on the

10th--and I could notice how stale it was, already. The family were the

same age that they were when I had left them five minutes before, but I

was a day older now than I was then. The day they were living in

stretched behind them half way round the globe, across the Pacific Ocean

and America and Europe; the day I was living in stretched in front of me

around the other half to meet it. They were stupendous days for bulk and

stretch; apparently much larger days than we had ever been in before.

All previous days had been but shrunk-up little things by comparison.

The difference in temperature between the two days was very marked, their

day being hotter than mine because it was closer to the equator.

Along about the moment that we were crossing the Great Meridian a child

was born in the steerage, and now there is no way to tell which day it

was born on. The nurse thinks it was Sunday, the surgeon thinks it was

Tuesday. The child will never know its own birthday. It will always be

choosing first one and then the other, and will never be able to make up

its mind permanently. This will breed vacillation and uncertainty in its

opinions about religion, and politics, and business, and sweethearts, and

everything, and will undermine its principles, and rot them away, and

make the poor thing characterless, and its success in life impossible.

Every one in the ship says so. And this is not all--in fact, not the

worst. For there is an enormously rich brewer in the ship who said as

much as ten days ago, that if the child was born on his birthday he would

give it ten thousand dollars to start its little life with. His birthday

was Monday, the 9th of September.

If the ships all moved in the one direction--westward, I mean--the world

would suffer a prodigious loss--in the matter of valuable time, through

the dumping overboard on the Great Meridian of such multitudes of days by

ships crews and passengers. But fortunately the ships do not all sail

west, half of them sail east. So there is no real loss. These latter

pick up all the discarded days and add them to the world's stock again;

and about as good as new, too; for of course the salt water preserves

them.

CHAPTER V.

Noise proves nothing. Often a hen who has merely laid an egg cackles as

if she had laid an asteroid.

--Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar.

WEDNESDAY, Sept. 11. In this world we often make mistakes of judgment.

We do not as a rule get out of them sound and whole, but sometimes we do.

At dinner yesterday evening-present, a mixture of Scotch, English,

American, Canadian, and Australasian folk--a discussion broke out about

the pronunciation of certain Scottish words. This was private ground,

and the non-Scotch nationalities, with one exception, discreetly kept

still. But I am not discreet, and I took a hand. I didn't know anything

about the subject, but I took a hand just to have something to do. At

that moment the word in dispute was the word three. One Scotchman was

claiming that the peasantry of Scotland pronounced it three, his

adversaries claimed that they didn't--that they pronounced it 'thraw'.

The solitary Scot was having a sultry time of it, so I thought I would

enrich him with my help. In my position I was necessarily quite

impartial, and was equally as well and as ill equipped to fight on the

one side as on the other. So I spoke up and said the peasantry

pronounced the word three, not thraw. It was an error of judgment.

There was a moment of astonished and ominous silence, then weather

ensued. The storm rose and spread in a surprising way, and I was snowed

under in a very few minutes. It was a bad defeat for me--a kind of

Waterloo. It promised to remain so, and I wished I had had better sense

than to enter upon such a forlorn enterprise. But just then I had a

saving thought--at least a thought that offered a chance. While the

storm was still raging, I made up a Scotch couplet, and then spoke up and

said:

"Very well, don't say any more. I confess defeat. I thought I knew, but

I see my mistake. I was deceived by one of your Scotch poets."

"A Scotch poet! O come! Name him."

"Robert Burns."

It is wonderful the power of that name. These men looked doubtful--but

paralyzed, all the same. They were quite silent for a moment; then one

of them said--with the reverence in his voice which is always present in

a Scotchman's tone when he utters the name.

"Does Robbie Burns say--what does he say?"

"This is what he says:

'There were nae bairns but only three

--Ane at the breast, twa at the knee.'"

It ended the discussion. There was no man there profane enough, disloyal

enough, to say any word against a thing which Robert Burns had settled.

I shall always honor that great name for the salvation it brought me in

this time of my sore need.

It is my belief that nearly any invented quotation, played with

confidence, stands a good chance to deceive. There are people who think

that honesty is always the best policy. This is a superstition; there

are times when the appearance of it is worth six of it.

We are moving steadily southward-getting further and further down under

the projecting paunch of the globe. Yesterday evening we saw the Big

Dipper and the north star sink below the horizon and disappear from our

world. No, not "we," but they. They saw it--somebody saw it--and told

me about it. But it is no matter, I was not caring for those things, I

am tired of them, any way. I think they are well enough, but one doesn't

want them always hanging around. My interest was all in the Southern

Cross. I had never seen that. I had heard about it all my life, and it

was but natural that I should be burning to see it. No other

constellation makes so much talk. I had nothing against the Big Dipper

--and naturally couldn't have anything against it, since it is a citizen of

our own sky, and the property of the United States--but I did want it to

move out of the way and give this foreigner a chance. Judging by the

size of the talk which the Southern Cross had made, I supposed it would

need a sky all to itself.

But that was a mistake. We saw the Cross to-night, and it is not large.

Not large, and not strikingly bright. But it was low down toward the

horizon, and it may improve when it gets up higher in the sky. It is

ingeniously named, for it looks just as a cross would look if it looked

like something else. But that description does not describe; it is too

vague, too general, too indefinite. It does after a fashion suggest a

cross across that is out of repair--or out of drawing; not correctly

shaped. It is long, with a short cross-bar, and the cross-bar is canted

out of the straight line.

It consists of four large stars and one little one. The little one is

out of line and further damages the shape. It should have been placed at

the intersection of the stem and the cross-bar. If you do not draw an

imaginary line from star to star it does not suggest a cross--nor

anything in particular.

One must ignore the little star, and leave it out of the combination--it

confuses everything. If you leave it out, then you can make out of the

four stars a sort of cross--out of true; or a sort of kite--out of true;

or a sort of coffin-out of true.

Constellations have always been troublesome things to name. If you give

one of them a fanciful name, it will always refuse to live up to it; it

will always persist in not resembling the thing it has been named for.

Ultimately, to satisfy the public, the fanciful name has to be discarded

for a common-sense one, a manifestly descriptive one. The Great Bear

remained the Great Bear--and unrecognizable as such--for thousands of

years; and people complained about it all the time, and quite properly;

but as soon as it became the property of the United States, Congress

changed it to the Big Dipper, and now every body is satisfied, and there

is no more talk about riots. I would not change the Southern Cross to

the Southern Coffin, I would change it to the Southern Kite; for up there

in the general emptiness is the proper home of a kite, but not for

coffins and crosses and dippers. In a little while, now--I cannot

tell exactly how long it will be--the globe will belong to the

English-speaking race; and of course the skies also. Then the

constellations will be re-organized, and polished up, and re-named--the

most of them "Victoria," I reckon, but this one will sail thereafter as

the Southern Kite, or go out of business. Several towns and things, here

and there, have been named for Her Majesty already.

In these past few days we are plowing through a mighty Milky Way of

islands. They are so thick on the map that one would hardly expect to

find room between them for a canoe; yet we seldom glimpse one. Once we

saw the dim bulk of a couple of them, far away, spectral and dreamy

things; members of the Horne-Alofa and Fortuna. On the larger one are

two rival native kings--and they have a time together. They are

Catholics; so are their people. The missionaries there are French

priests.

From the multitudinous islands in these regions the "recruits" for the

Queensland plantations were formerly drawn; are still drawn from them, I

believe. Vessels fitted up like old-time slavers came here and carried

off the natives to serve as laborers in the great Australian province.

In the beginning it was plain, simple man-stealing, as per testimony of

the missionaries. This has been denied, but not disproven. Afterward it

was forbidden by law to "recruit" a native without his consent, and

governmental agents were sent in all recruiting vessels to see that the

law was obeyed--which they did, according to the recruiting people; and

which they sometimes didn't, according to the missionaries. A man could

be lawfully recruited for a three-years term of service; he could

volunteer for another term if he so chose; when his time was up he could

return to his island. And would also have the means to do it; for the

government required the employer to put money in its hands for this

purpose before the recruit was delivered to him.

Captain Wawn was a recruiting ship-master during many years. From his

pleasant book one gets the idea that the recruiting business was quite

popular with the islanders, as a rule. And yet that did not make the

business wholly dull and uninteresting; for one finds rather frequent

little breaks in the monotony of it--like this, for instance:

"The afternoon of our arrival at Leper Island the schooner was lying

almost becalmed under the lee of the lofty central portion of the

island, about three-quarters of a mile from the shore. The boats

were in sight at some distance. The recruiter-boat had run into a

small nook on the rocky coast, under a high bank, above which stood

a solitary hut backed by dense forest. The government agent and

mate in the second boat lay about 400 yards to the westward.

"Suddenly we heard the sound of firing, followed by yells from the

natives on shore, and then we saw the recruiter-boat push out with a

seemingly diminished crew. The mate's boat pulled quickly up, took

her in tow, and presently brought her alongside, all her own crew

being more or less hurt. It seems the natives had called them into

the place on pretence of friendship. A crowd gathered about the

stern of the boat, and several fellows even got into her. All of a

sudden our men were attacked with clubs and tomahawks. The

recruiter escaped the first blows aimed at him, making play with his

fists until he had an opportunity to draw his revolver. 'Tom

Sayers,' a Mare man, received a tomahawk blow on the head which laid

the scalp open but did not penetrate his skull, fortunately. 'Bobby

Towns,' another Mare boatman, had both his thumbs cut in warding off

blows, one of them being so nearly severed from the hand that the

doctors had to finish the operation. Lihu, a Lifu boy, the

recruiter's special attendant, was cut and pricked in various

places, but nowhere seriously. Jack, an unlucky Tanna recruit, who

had been engaged to act as boatman, received an arrow through his

forearm, the head of which--apiece of bone seven or eight inches

long--was still in the limb, protruding from both sides, when the

boats returned. The recruiter himself would have got off scot-free

had not an arrow pinned one of his fingers to the loom of the

steering-oar just as they were getting off. The fight had been

short but sharp. The enemy lost two men, both shot dead."

The truth is, Captain Wawn furnishes such a crowd of instances of fatal

encounters between natives and French and English recruiting-crews (for

the French are in the business for the plantations of New Caledonia),

that one is almost persuaded that recruiting is not thoroughly popular

among the islanders; else why this bristling string of attacks and

bloodcurdling slaughter? The captain lays it all to "Exeter Hall

influence." But for the meddling philanthropists, the native fathers and

mothers would be fond of seeing their children carted into exile and now

and then the grave, instead of weeping about it and trying to kill the

kind recruiters.

CHAPTER VI.

He was as shy as a newspaper is when referring to its own merits.

--Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar.

Captain Wawn is crystal-clear on one point: He does not approve of

missionaries. They obstruct his business. They make "Recruiting," as he

calls it ("Slave-Catching," as they call it in their frank way) a trouble

when it ought to be just a picnic and a pleasure excursion. The

missionaries have their opinion about the manner in which the Labor

Traffic is conducted, and about the recruiter's evasions of the law of

the Traffic, and about the traffic itself--and it is distinctly

uncomplimentary to the Traffic and to everything connected with it,

including the law for its regulation. Captain Wawn's book is of very

recent date; I have by me a pamphlet of still later date--hot from the

press, in fact--by Rev. Wm. Gray, a missionary; and the book and the

pamphlet taken together make exceedingly interesting reading, to my mind.

Interesting, and easy to understand--except in one detail, which I will

mention presently. It is easy to understand why the Queensland sugar

planter should want the Kanaka recruit: he is cheap. Very cheap, in

fact. These are the figures paid by the planter: L20 to the recruiter

for getting the Kanaka or "catching" him, as the missionary phrase goes;

L3 to the Queensland government for "superintending" the importation; L5

deposited with the Government for the Kanaka's passage home when his

three years are up, in case he shall live that long; about L25 to the

Kanaka himself for three years' wages and clothing; total payment for the

use of a man three years, L53; or, including diet, L60. Altogether, a

hundred dollars a year. One can understand why the recruiter is fond of

the business; the recruit costs him a few cheap presents (given to the

recruit's relatives, not himself), and the recruit is worth L20 to the

recruiter when delivered in Queensland. All this is clear enough; but

the thing that is not clear is, what there is about it all to persuade

the recruit. He is young and brisk; life at home in his beautiful island

is one lazy, long holiday to him; or if he wants to work he can turn out

a couple of bags of copra per week and sell it for four or five shillings

a bag. In Queensland he must get up at dawn and work from eight to

twelve hours a day in the canefields--in a much hotter climate than he is

used to--and get less than four shillings a week for it.

I cannot understand his willingness to go to Queensland. It is a deep

puzzle to me. Here is the explanation, from the planter's point of view;

at least I gather from the missionary's pamphlet that it is the

planter's:

"When he comes from his home he is a savage, pure and simple. He

feels no shame at his nakedness and want of adornment. When he

returns home he does so well dressed, sporting a Waterbury watch,

collars, cuffs, boots, and jewelry. He takes with him one or more

boxes--["Box" is English for trunk.]--well filled with clothing, a

musical instrument or two, and perfumery and other articles of

luxury he has learned to appreciate."

For just one moment we have a seeming flash of comprehension of, the

Kanaka's reason for exiling himself: he goes away to acquire

civilization. Yes, he was naked and not ashamed, now he is clothed and

knows how to be ashamed; he was unenlightened; now he has a Waterbury

watch; he was unrefined, now he has jewelry, and something to make him

smell good; he was a nobody, a provincial, now he has been to far

countries and can show off.

It all looks plausible--for a moment. Then the missionary takes hold of

this explanation and pulls it to pieces, and dances on it, and damages it

beyond recognition.

"Admitting that the foregoing description is the average one, the

average sequel is this: The cuffs and collars, if used at all, are

carried off by youngsters, who fasten them round the leg, just below

the knee, as ornaments. The Waterbury, broken and dirty, finds its

way to the trader, who gives a trifle for it; or the inside is taken

out, the wheels strung on a thread and hung round the neck. Knives,

axes, calico, and handkerchiefs are divided among friends, and there

is hardly one of these apiece. The boxes, the keys often lost on

the road home, can be bought for 2s. 6d. They are to be seen

rotting outside in almost any shore village on Tanna. (I speak of

what I have seen.) A returned Kanaka has been furiously angry with

me because I would not buy his trousers, which he declared were just

my fit. He sold them afterwards to one of my Aniwan teachers for

9d. worth of tobacco--a pair of trousers that probably cost him 8s.

or 10s. in Queensland. A coat or shirt is handy for cold weather.

The white handkerchiefs, the 'senet' (perfumery), the umbrella, and

perhaps the hat, are kept. The boots have to take their chance, if

they do not happen to fit the copra trader. 'Senet' on the hair,

streaks of paint on the face, a dirty white handkerchief round the

neck, strips of turtle shell in the ears, a belt, a sheath and

knife, and an umbrella constitute the rig of returned Kanaka at home

the day after landing."

A hat, an umbrella, a belt, a neckerchief. Otherwise stark naked. All

in a day the hard-earned "civilization" has melted away to this. And

even these perishable things must presently go. Indeed, there is but a

single detail of his civilization that can be depended on to stay by him:

according to the missionary, he has learned to swear. This is art, and

art is long, as the poet says.

In all countries the laws throw light upon the past. The Queensland law

for the regulation of the Labor Traffic is a confession. It is a

confession that the evils charged by the missionaries upon the traffic

had existed in the past, and that they still existed when the law was

made. The missionaries make a further charge: that the law is evaded by

the recruiters, and that the Government Agent sometimes helps them to do

it. Regulation 31 reveals two things: that sometimes a young fool of a

recruit gets his senses back, after being persuaded to sign away his

liberty for three years, and dearly wants to get out of the engagement

and stay at home with his own people; and that threats, intimidation, and

force are used to keep him on board the recruiting-ship, and to hold him

to his contract. Regulation 31 forbids these coercions. The law

requires that he shall be allowed to go free; and another clause of it

requires the recruiter to set him ashore--per boat, because of the

prevalence of sharks. Testimony from Rev. Mr. Gray:

"There are 'wrinkles' for taking the penitent Kanaka. My first

experience of the Traffic was a case of this kind in 1884. A vessel

anchored just out of sight of our station, word was brought to me

that some boys were stolen, and the relatives wished me to go and

get them back. The facts were, as I found, that six boys had

recruited, had rushed into the boat, the Government Agent informed

me. They had all 'signed'; and, said the Government Agent, 'on

board they shall remain.' I was assured that the six boys were of

age and willing to go. Yet on getting ready to leave the ship I

found four of the lads ready to come ashore in the boat! This I

forbade. One of them jumped into the water and persisted in coming

ashore in my boat. When appealed to, the Government Agent suggested

that we go and leave him to be picked up by the ship's boat, a

quarter mile distant at the time!"

The law and the missionaries feel for the repentant recruit--and

properly, one may be permitted to think, for he is only a youth and

ignorant and persuadable to his hurt--but sympathy for him is not kept in

stock by the recruiter. Rev. Mr. Gray says:

"A captain many years in the traffic explained to me how a penitent

could betaken. 'When a boy jumps overboard we just take a boat and

pull ahead of him, then lie between him and the shore. If he has

not tired himself swimming, and passes the boat, keep on heading him

in this way. The dodge rarely fails. The boy generally tires of

swimming, gets into the boat of his own accord, and goes quietly on

board."

Yes, exhaustion is likely to make a boy quiet. If the distressed boy had

been the speaker's son, and the captors savages, the speaker would have

been surprised to see how differently the thing looked from the new point

of view; however, it is not our custom to put ourselves in the other

person's place. Somehow there is something pathetic about that

disappointed young savage's resignation. I must explain, here, that in

the traffic dialect, "boy" does not always mean boy; it means a youth

above sixteen years of age. That is by Queensland law the age of

consent, though it is held that recruiters allow themselves some latitude

in guessing at ages.

Captain Wawn of the free spirit chafes under the annoyance of "cast-iron

regulations." They and the missionaries have poisoned his life. He

grieves for the good old days, vanished to come no more. See him weep;

hear him cuss between the lines!

"For a long time we were allowed to apprehend and detain all

deserters who had signed the agreement on board ship, but the

'cast-iron' regulations of the Act of 1884 put a stop to that,

allowing the Kanaka to sign the agreement for three years' service,

travel about in the ship in receipt of the regular rations, cadge

all he could, and leave when he thought fit, so long as he did not

extend his pleasure trip to Queensland."

Rev. Mr. Gray calls this same restrictive cast-iron law a "farce." "There

is as much cruelty and injustice done to natives by acts that are legal

as by deeds unlawful. The regulations that exist are unjust and

inadequate--unjust and inadequate they must ever be." He furnishes his

reasons for his position, but they are too long for reproduction here.

However, if the most a Kanaka advantages himself by a three-years course

in civilization in Queensland, is a necklace and an umbrella and a showy

imperfection in the art of swearing, it must be that all the profit of

the traffic goes to the white man. This could be twisted into a

plausible argument that the traffic ought to be squarely abolished.

However, there is reason for hope that that can be left alone to achieve

itself. It is claimed that the traffic will depopulate its sources of

supply within the next twenty or thirty years. Queensland is a very

healthy place for white people--death-rate 12 in 1,000 of the population

--but the Kanaka death-rate is away above that. The vital statistics for

1893 place it at 52; for 1894 (Mackay district), 68. The first six

months of the Kanaka's exile are peculiarly perilous for him because of

the rigors of the new climate. The death-rate among the new men has

reached as high as 180 in the 1,000. In the Kanaka's native home his

death-rate is 12 in time of peace, and 15 in time of war. Thus exile to

Queensland--with the opportunity to acquire civilization, an umbrella,

and a pretty poor quality of profanity--is twelve times as deadly for him

as war. Common Christian charity, common humanity, does seem to require,

not only that these people be returned to their homes, but that war,

pestilence, and famine be introduced among them for their preservation.

Concerning these Pacific isles and their peoples an eloquent prophet

spoke long years ago--five and fifty years ago. In fact, he spoke a

little too early. Prophecy is a good line of business, but it is full of

risks. This prophet was the Right Rev. M. Russell, LL.D., D.C.L., of

Edinburgh:

"Is the tide of civilization to roll only to the foot of the Rocky

Mountains, and is the sun of knowledge to set at last in the waves

of the Pacific? No; the mighty day of four thousand years is

drawing to its close; the sun of humanity has performed its destined

course; but long ere its setting rays are extinguished in the west,

its ascending beams have glittered on the isles of the eastern seas

. . . . And now we see the race of Japhet setting forth to

people the isles, and the seeds of another Europe and a second

England sown in the regions of the sun. But mark the words of the

prophecy: 'He shall dwell in the tents of Shem, and Canaan shall be

his servant.' It is not said Canaan shall be his slave. To the

Anglo-Saxon race is given the scepter of the globe, but there is not

given either the lash of the slave-driver or the rack of the

executioner. The East will not be stained with the same atrocities

as the West; the frightful gangrene of an enthralled race is not to

mar the destinies of the family of Japhet in the Oriental world;

humanizing, not destroying, as they advance; uniting with, not

enslaving, the inhabitants with whom they dwell, the British race

may," etc., etc.

And he closes his vision with an invocation from Thomson:

"Come, bright Improvement! on the car of Time,

And rule the spacious world from clime to clime."

Very well, Bright Improvement has arrived, you see, with her

civilization, and her Waterbury, and her umbrella, and her third-quality

profanity, and her humanizing-not-destroying machinery, and her

hundred-and-eighty death-rate, and everything is going along just as

handsome!

But the prophet that speaks last has an advantage over the pioneer in the

business. Rev. Mr. Gray says:

"What I am concerned about is that we as a Christian nation should

wipe out these races to enrich ourselves."

And he closes his pamphlet with a grim Indictment which is as eloquent in

its flowerless straightforward English as is the hand-painted rhapsody of

the early prophet:

"My indictment of the Queensland-Kanaka Labor Traffic is this

"1. It generally demoralizes and always impoverishes the Kanaka,

deprives him of his citizenship, and depopulates the islands fitted

to his home.

"2. It is felt to lower the dignity of the white agricultural

laborer in Queensland, and beyond a doubt it lowers his wages there.

"3. The whole system is fraught with danger to Australia and the

islands on the score of health.

"4. On social and political grounds the continuance of the

Queensland Kanaka Labor Traffic must be a barrier to the true

federation of the Australian colonies.

"5. The Regulations under which the Traffic exists in Queensland are

inadequate to prevent abuses, and in the nature of things they must

remain so.

"6. The whole system is contrary to the spirit and doctrine of the

Gospel of Jesus Christ. The Gospel requires us to help the weak,

but the Kanaka is fleeced and trodden down.

"7. The bed-rock of this Traffic is that the life and liberty of a

black man are of less value than those of a white man. And a

Traffic that has grown out of 'slave-hunting' will certainly remain

to the end not unlike its origin."

CHAPTER VII.

Truth is the most valuable thing we have. Let us economize it.

--Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar.

From Diary:--For a day or two we have been plowing among an invisible

vast wilderness of islands, catching now and then a shadowy glimpse of a

member of it. There does seem to be a prodigious lot of islands this

year; the map of this region is freckled and fly-specked all over with

them. Their number would seem to be uncountable. We are moving among

the Fijis now--224 islands and islets in the group. In front of us, to

the west, the wilderness stretches toward Australia, then curves upward

to New Guinea, and still up and up to Japan; behind us, to the east, the

wilderness stretches sixty degrees across the wastes of the Pacific;

south of us is New Zealand. Somewhere or other among these myriads Samoa

is concealed, and not discoverable on the map. Still, if you wish to go

there, you will have no trouble about finding it if you follow the

directions given by Robert Louis Stevenson to Dr. Conan Doyle and to Mr.

J. M. Barrie. "You go to America, cross the continent to San Francisco,

and then it's the second turning to the left." To get the full flavor of

the joke one must take a glance at the map.

Wednesday, September 11.--Yesterday we passed close to an island or so,

and recognized the published Fiji characteristics: a broad belt of clean

white coral sand around the island; back of it a graceful fringe of

leaning palms, with native huts nestling cosily among the shrubbery at

their bases; back of these a stretch of level land clothed in tropic

vegetation; back of that, rugged and picturesque mountains. A detail

of the immediate foreground: a mouldering ship perched high up on a

reef-bench. This completes the composition, and makes the picture

artistically perfect.

In the afternoon we sighted Suva, the capital of the group, and threaded

our way into the secluded little harbor--a placid basin of brilliant blue

and green water tucked snugly in among the sheltering hills. A few ships

rode at anchor in it--one of them a sailing vessel flying the American

flag; and they said she came from Duluth! There's a journey! Duluth is

several thousand miles from the sea, and yet she is entitled to the proud

name of Mistress of the Commercial Marine of the United States of

America. There is only one free, independent, unsubsidized American ship

sailing the foreign seas, and Duluth owns it. All by itself that ship is

the American fleet. All by itself it causes the American name and power

to be respected in the far regions of the globe. All by itself it

certifies to the world that the most populous civilized nation, in the

earth has a just pride in her stupendous stretch of sea-front, and is

determined to assert and maintain her rightful place as one of the Great

Maritime Powers of the Planet. All by itself it is making foreign eyes

familiar with a Flag which they have not seen before for forty years,

outside of the museum. For what Duluth has done, in building, equipping,

and maintaining at her sole expense the American Foreign Commercial

Fleet, and in thus rescuing the American name from shame and lifting it

high for the homage of the nations, we owe her a debt of gratitude which

our hearts shall confess with quickened beats whenever her name is named

henceforth. Many national toasts will die in the lapse of time, but

while the flag flies and the Republic survives, they who live under their

shelter will still drink this one, standing and uncovered: Health and

prosperity to Thee, O Duluth, American Queen of the Alien Seas!

Row-boats began to flock from the shore; their crews were the first

natives we had seen. These men carried no overplus of clothing, and this

was wise, for the weather was hot. Handsome, great dusky men they were,

muscular, clean-limbed, and with faces full of character and

intelligence. It would be hard to find their superiors anywhere among

the dark races, I should think.

Everybody went ashore to look around, and spy out the land, and have that

luxury of luxuries to sea-voyagers--a land-dinner. And there we saw more

natives: Wrinkled old women, with their flat mammals flung over their

shoulders, or hanging down in front like the cold-weather drip from the

molasses-faucet; plump and smily young girls, blithe and content, easy

and graceful, a pleasure to look at; young matrons, tall, straight,

comely, nobly built, sweeping by with chin up, and a gait incomparable

for unconscious stateliness and dignity; majestic young men athletes for

build and muscle clothed in a loose arrangement of dazzling white, with

bronze breast and bronze legs naked, and the head a cannon-swab of solid

hair combed straight out from the skull and dyed a rich brick-red. Only

sixty years ago they were sunk in darkness; now they have the bicycle.

We strolled about the streets of the white folks' little town, and around

over the hills by paths and roads among European dwellings and gardens

and plantations, and past clumps of hibiscus that made a body blink, the

great blossoms were so intensely red; and by and by we stopped to ask an

elderly English colonist a question or two, and to sympathize with him

concerning the torrid weather; but he was surprised, and said:

"This? This is not hot. You ought to be here in the summer time once."

"We supposed that this was summer; it has the ear-marks of it. You could

take it to almost any country and deceive people with it. But if it

isn't summer, what does it lack?"

"It lacks half a year. This is mid-winter."

I had been suffering from colds for several months, and a sudden change

of season, like this, could hardly fail to do me hurt. It brought on

another cold. It is odd, these sudden jumps from season to season. A

fortnight ago we left America in mid-summer, now it is midwinter; about a

week hence we shall arrive in Australia in the spring.

After dinner I found in the billiard-room a resident whom I had known

somewhere else in the world, and presently made, some new friends and

drove with them out into the country to visit his Excellency the head of

the State, who was occupying his country residence, to escape the rigors

of the winter weather, I suppose, for it was on breezy high ground and

much more comfortable than the lower regions, where the town is, and

where the winter has full swing, and often sets a person's hair afire

when he takes off his hat to bow. There is a noble and beautiful view of

ocean and islands and castellated peaks from the governor's high-placed

house, and its immediate surroundings lie drowsing in that dreamy repose

and serenity which are the charm of life in the Pacific Islands.

One of the new friends who went out there with me was a large man, and I

had been admiring his size all the way. I was still admiring it as he

stood by the governor on the veranda, talking; then the Fijian butler

stepped out there to announce tea, and dwarfed him. Maybe he did not

quite dwarf him, but at any rate the contrast was quite striking.

Perhaps that dark giant was a king in a condition of political

suspension. I think that in the talk there on the veranda it was said

that in Fiji, as in the Sandwich Islands, native kings and chiefs are of

much grander size and build than the commoners. This man was clothed in

flowing white vestments, and they were just the thing for him; they

comported well with his great stature and his kingly port and dignity.

European clothes would have degraded him and made him commonplace. I

know that, because they do that with everybody that wears them.

It was said that the old-time devotion to chiefs and reverence for their

persons still survive in the native commoner, and in great force. The

educated young gentleman who is chief of the tribe that live in the

region about the capital dresses in the fashion of high-class European

gentlemen, but even his clothes cannot damn him in the reverence of his

people. Their pride in his lofty rank and ancient lineage lives on, in

spite of his lost authority and the evil magic of his tailor. He has no

need to defile himself with work, or trouble his heart with the sordid

cares of life; the tribe will see to it that he shall not want, and that

he shall hold up his head and live like a gentleman. I had a glimpse of

him down in the town. Perhaps he is a descendant of the last king--the

king with the difficult name whose memory is preserved by a notable

monument of cut-stone which one sees in the enclosure in the middle of

the town. Thakombau--I remember, now; that is the name. It is easier to

preserve it on a granite block than in your head.

Fiji was ceded to England by this king in 1858. One of the gentlemen

present at the governor's quoted a remark made by the king at the time of

the session--a neat retort, and with a touch of pathos in it, too. The

English Commissioner had offered a crumb of comfort to Thakombau by

saying that the transfer of the kingdom to Great Britain was merely "a

sort of hermit-crab formality, you know." "Yes," said poor Thakombau,

"but with this difference--the crab moves into an unoccupied shell, but

mine isn't."

However, as far as I can make out from the books, the King was between

the devil and the deep sea at the time, and hadn't much choice. He owed

the United States a large debt--a debt which he could pay if allowed

time, but time was denied him. He must pay up right away or the warships

would be upon him. To protect his people from this disaster he ceded his

country to Britain, with a clause in the contract providing for the

ultimate payment of the American debt.

In old times the Fijians were fierce fighters; they were very religious,

and worshiped idols; the big chiefs were proud and haughty, and they were

men of great style in many ways; all chiefs had several wives, the

biggest chiefs sometimes had as many as fifty; when a chief was dead and

ready for burial, four or five of his wives were strangled and put into

the grave with him. In 1804 twenty-seven British convicts escaped from

Australia to Fiji, and brought guns and ammunition with them. Consider

what a power they were, armed like that, and what an opportunity they

had. If they had been energetic men and sober, and had had brains and

known how to use them, they could have achieved the sovereignty of the

archipelago twenty-seven kings and each with eight or nine islands under

his scepter. But nothing came of this chance. They lived worthless

lives of sin and luxury, and died without honor--in most cases by

violence. Only one of them had any ambition; he was an Irishman named

Connor. He tried to raise a family of fifty children, and scored

forty-eight. He died lamenting his failure. It was a foolish sort

of avarice. Many a father would have been rich enough with forty.

It is a fine race, the Fijians, with brains in their heads, and an

inquiring turn of mind. It appears that their savage ancestors had a

doctrine of immortality in their scheme of religion--with limitations.

That is to say, their dead friend would go to a happy hereafter if he

could be accumulated, but not otherwise. They drew the line; they

thought that the missionary's doctrine was too sweeping, too

comprehensive. They called his attention to certain facts. For

instance, many of their friends had been devoured by sharks; the sharks,

in their turn, were caught and eaten by other men; later, these men were

captured in war, and eaten by the enemy. The original persons had

entered into the composition of the sharks; next, they and the sharks had

become part of the flesh and blood and bone of the cannibals. How, then,

could the particles of the original men be searched out from the final

conglomerate and put together again? The inquirers were full of doubts,

and considered that the missionary had not examined the matter with--the

gravity and attention which so serious a thing deserved.

The missionary taught these exacting savages many valuable things, and

got from them one--a very dainty and poetical idea: Those wild and

ignorant poor children of Nature believed that the flowers, after they

perish, rise on the winds and float away to the fair fields of heaven,

and flourish there forever in immortal beauty!

CHAPTER VIII.

It could probably be shown by facts and figures that there is no

distinctly native American criminal class except Congress.

--Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar.

When one glances at the map the members of the stupendous island

wilderness of the Pacific seem to crowd upon each other; but no, there is

no crowding, even in the center of a group; and between groups there are

lonely wide deserts of sea. Not everything is known about the islands,

their peoples and their languages. A startling reminder of this is

furnished by the fact that in Fiji, twenty years ago, were living two

strange and solitary beings who came from an unknown country and spoke an

unknown language. "They were picked up by a passing vessel many hundreds

of miles from any known land, floating in the same tiny canoe in which

they had been blown out to sea. When found they were but skin and bone.

No one could understand what they said, and they have never named their

country; or, if they have, the name does not correspond with that of any

island on any chart. They are now fat and sleek, and as happy as the day

is long. In the ship's log there is an entry of the latitude and

longitude in which they were found, and this is probably all the clue

they will ever have to their lost homes."--[Forbes's "Two Years in

Fiji."]

What a strange and romantic episode it is; and how one is tortured with

curiosity to know whence those mysterious creatures came, those Men

Without a Country, errant waifs who cannot name their lost home,

wandering Children of Nowhere.

Indeed, the Island Wilderness is the very home of romance and dreams and

mystery. The loneliness, the solemnity, the beauty, and the deep repose

of this wilderness have a charm which is all their own for the bruised

spirit of men who have fought and failed in the struggle for life in the

great world; and for men who have been hunted out of the great world for

crime; and for other men who love an easy and indolent existence; and for

others who love a roving free life, and stir and change and adventure;

and for yet others who love an easy and comfortable career of trading and

money-getting, mixed with plenty of loose matrimony by purchase, divorce

without trial or expense, and limitless spreeing thrown in to make life

ideally perfect.

We sailed again, refreshed.

The most cultivated person in the ship was a young English, man whose

home was in New Zealand. He was a naturalist. His learning in his

specialty was deep and thorough, his interest in his subject amounted to

a passion, he had an easy gift of speech; and so, when he talked about

animals it was a pleasure to listen to him. And profitable, too, though

he was sometimes difficult to understand because now and then he used

scientific technicalities which were above the reach of some of us. They

were pretty sure to be above my reach, but as he was quite willing to

explain them I always made it a point to get him to do it. I had a fair

knowledge of his subject--layman's knowledge--to begin with, but it was

his teachings which crystalized it into scientific form and clarity--in a

word, gave it value.

His special interest was the fauna of Australasia, and his knowledge of

the matter was as exhaustive as it was accurate. I already knew a good

deal about the rabbits in Australasia and their marvelous fecundity, but

in my talks with him I found that my estimate of the great hindrance and

obstruction inflicted by the rabbit pest upon traffic and travel was far

short of the facts. He told me that the first pair of rabbits imported

into Australasia bred so wonderfully that within six months rabbits were

so thick in the land that people had to dig trenches through them to get

from town to town.

He told me a great deal about worms, and the kangaroo, and other

coleoptera, and said he knew the history and ways of all such

pachydermata. He said the kangaroo had pockets, and carried its young in

them when it couldn't get apples. And he said that the emu was as big as

an ostrich, and looked like one, and had an amorphous appetite and would

eat bricks. Also, that the dingo was not a dingo at all, but just a wild

dog; and that the only difference between a dingo and a dodo was that

neither of them barked; otherwise they were just the same. He said that

the only game-bird in Australia was the wombat, and the only song-bird

the larrikin, and that both were protected by government. The most

beautiful of the native birds was the bird of Paradise. Next came the

two kinds of lyres; not spelt the same. He said the one kind was dying

out, the other thickening up. He explained that the "Sundowner" was not

a bird it was a man; sundowner was merely the Australian equivalent of

our word, tramp. He is a loafer, a hard drinker, and a sponge. He

tramps across the country in the sheep-shearing season, pretending to

look for work; but he always times himself to arrive at a sheep-run just

at sundown, when the day's labor ends; all he wants is whisky and supper

and bed and breakfast; he gets them and then disappears. The naturalist

spoke of the bell bird, the creature that at short intervals all day

rings out its mellow and exquisite peal from the deeps of the forest. It

is the favorite and best friend of the weary and thirsty sundowner; for

he knows that wherever the bell bird is, there is water; and he goes

somewhere else. The naturalist said that the oddest bird in Australasia

was the, Laughing Jackass, and the biggest the now extinct Great Moa.

The Moa stood thirteen feet high, and could step over an ordinary man's

head or kick his hat off; and his head, too, for that matter. He said it

was wingless, but a swift runner. The natives used to ride it. It could

make forty miles an hour, and keep it up for four hundred miles and come

out reasonably fresh. It was still in existence when the railway was

introduced into New Zealand; still in existence, and carrying the mails.

The railroad began with the same schedule it has now: two expresses a

week-time, twenty miles an hour. The company exterminated the moa to get

the mails.

Speaking of the indigenous coneys and bactrian camels, the naturalist

said that the coniferous and bacteriological output of Australasia was

remarkable for its many and curious departures from the accepted laws

governing these species of tubercles, but that in his opinion Nature's

fondness for dabbling in the erratic was most notably exhibited in that

curious combination of bird, fish, amphibian, burrower, crawler,

quadruped, and Christian called the Ornithorhynchus--grotesquest of

animals, king of the animalculae of the world for versatility of

character and make-up. Said he:

"You can call it anything you want to, and be right. It is a fish,

for it lives in the river half the time; it is a land animal, for it

resides on the land half the time; it is an amphibian, since it

likes both and does not know which it prefers; it is a hybernian,

for when times are dull and nothing much going on it buries itself

under the mud at the bottom of a puddle and hybernates there a

couple of weeks at a time; it is a kind of duck, for it has a

duck-bill and four webbed paddles; it is a fish and quadruped

together, for in the water it swims with the paddles and on shore it

paws itself across country with them; it is a kind of seal, for it

has a seal's fur; it is carnivorous, herbivorous, insectivorous, and

vermifuginous, for it eats fish and grass and butterflies, and in

the season digs worms out of the mud and devours them; it is clearly

a bird, for it lays eggs, and hatches them; it is clearly a mammal,

for it nurses its young; and it is manifestly a kind of Christian,

for it keeps the Sabbath when there is anybody around, and when

there isn't, doesn't. It has all the tastes there are except

refined ones, it has all the habits there are except good ones.

"It is a survival--a survival of the fittest. Mr. Darwin invented

the theory that goes by that name, but the Ornithorhynchus was the

first to put it to actual experiment and prove that it could be

done. Hence it should have as much of the credit as Mr. Darwin.

It was never in the Ark; you will find no mention of it there; it

nobly stayed out and worked the theory. Of all creatures in the

world it was the only one properly equipped for the test. The Ark

was thirteen months afloat, and all the globe submerged; no land

visible above the flood, no vegetation, no food for a mammal to eat,

nor water for a mammal to drink; for all mammal food was destroyed,

and when the pure floods from heaven and the salt oceans of the

earth mingled their waters and rose above the mountain tops, the

result was a drink which no bird or beast of ordinary construction

could use and live. But this combination was nuts for the

Ornithorhynchus, if I may use a term like that without offense.

Its river home had always been salted by the flood-tides of the sea.

On the face of the Noachian deluge innumerable forest trees were

floating. Upon these the Ornithorhynchus voyaged in peace; voyaged

from clime to clime, from hemisphere to hemisphere, in contentment

and comfort, in virile interest in the constant change Of scene, in

humble thankfulness for its privileges, in ever-increasing

enthusiasm in the development of the great theory upon whose

validity it had staked its life, its fortunes, and its sacred honor,

if I may use such expressions without impropriety in connection with

an episode of this nature.

"It lived the tranquil and luxurious life of a creature of

independent means. Of things actually necessary to its existence

and its happiness not a detail was wanting. When it wished to walk,

it scrambled along the tree-trunk; it mused in the shade of the

leaves by day, it slept in their shelter by night; when it wanted

the refreshment of a swim, it had it; it ate leaves when it wanted a

vegetable diet, it dug under the bark for worms and grubs; when it

wanted fish it caught them, when it wanted eggs it laid them. If

the grubs gave out in one tree it swam to another; and as for fish,

the very opulence of the supply was an embarrassment. And finally,

when it was thirsty it smacked its chops in gratitude over a blend

that would have slain a crocodile.

"When at last, after thirteen months of travel and research in all

the Zones it went aground on a mountain-summit, it strode ashore,

saying in its heart, 'Let them that come after me invent theories

and dream dreams about the Survival of the Fittest if they like, but

I am the first that has done it!

"This wonderful creature dates back like the kangaroo and many other

Australian hydrocephalous invertebrates, to an age long anterior to

the advent of man upon the earth; they date back, indeed, to a time

when a causeway hundreds of miles wide, and thousands of miles long,

joined Australia to Africa, and the animals of the two countries

were alike, and all belonged to that remote geological epoch known

to science as the Old Red Grindstone Post-Pleosaurian. Later the

causeway sank under the sea; subterranean convulsions lifted the

African continent a thousand feet higher than it was before, but

Australia kept her old level. In Africa's new climate the animals

necessarily began to develop and shade off into new forms and

families and species, but the animals of Australia as necessarily

remained stationary, and have so remained until this day. In the

course of some millions of years the African Ornithorhynchus

developed and developed and developed, and sluffed off detail after

detail of its make-up until at last the creature became wholly

disintegrated and scattered. Whenever you see a bird or a beast or

a seal or an otter in Africa you know that he is merely a sorry

surviving fragment of that sublime original of whom I have been

speaking--that creature which was everything in general and nothing

in particular--the opulently endowed 'e pluribus unum' of the animal

world.

"Such is the history of the most hoary, the most ancient, the most

venerable creature that exists in the earth today--Ornithorhynchus

Platypus Extraordinariensis--whom God preserve!"

When he was strongly moved he could rise and soar like that with ease.

And not only in the prose form, but in the poetical as well. He had

written many pieces of poetry in his time, and these manuscripts he lent

around among the passengers, and was willing to let them be copied. It

seemed to me that the least technical one in the series, and the one

which reached the loftiest note, perhaps, was his:

INVOCATION.

"Come forth from thy oozy couch,

O Ornithorhynchus dear!

And greet with a cordial claw

The stranger that longs to hear

"From thy own own lips the tale

Of thy origin all unknown:

Thy misplaced bone where flesh should be

And flesh where should be bone;

"And fishy fin where should be paw,

And beaver-trowel tail,

And snout of beast equip'd with teeth

Where gills ought to prevail.

"Come, Kangaroo, the good and true

Foreshortened as to legs,

And body tapered like a churn,

And sack marsupial, i' fegs,

"And tells us why you linger here,

Thou relic of a vanished time,

When all your friends as fossils sleep,

Immortalized in lime!"

Perhaps no poet is a conscious plagiarist; but there seems to be warrant

for suspecting that there is no poet who is not at one time or another an

unconscious one. The above verses are indeed beautiful, and, in a way,

touching; but there is a haunting something about them which unavoidably

suggests the Sweet Singer of Michigan. It can hardly be doubted that the

author had read the works of that poet and been impressed by them. It is

not apparent that he has borrowed from them any word or yet any phrase,

but the style and swing and mastery and melody of the Sweet Singer all

are there. Compare this Invocation with "Frank Dutton"--particularly

stanzas first and seventeenth--and I think the reader will feel convinced

that he who wrote the one had read the other:

I.

"Frank Dutton was as fine a lad

As ever you wish to see,

And he was drowned in Pine Island Lake

On earth no more will he be,

His age was near fifteen years,

And he was a motherless boy,

He was living with his grandmother

When he was drowned, poor boy."

XVII.

"He was drowned on Tuesday afternoon,

On Sunday he was found,

And the tidings of that drowned boy

Was heard for miles around.

His form was laid by his mother's side,

Beneath the cold, cold ground,

His friends for him will drop a tear

When they view his little mound."

The Sentimental Song Book. By Mrs. Julia Moore, p. 36.

Following the Equator: A Journey Around the World. Part 1 · 第 68 / 68 章