This is an ingenious contrivance of Mr. Taylor's. Hoops are worked in

the straw, both at top and bottom of the stock hive, and in the upper

hoop are openings cut to receive eight comb bars; each bar is 1¼ of an

inch wide, with a space of h an inch between. Since the introduction of

square straw bar and frame hives, these have not been much in request.

Considerable inconvenience is found with this hive, because the bars

being of unequal lengths they cannot be interchanged one with the other.

The description given of No. 3 hive, and mode of stocking and

furnishing it with guide comb, apply to this hive. The large straw hive

raised up in the engraving is an outside case; the roof is a large zinc

cover. If placed in a bee-house, the outside case and zinc roof are not

required.

NEIGHBOUR'S UNICOMB OBSERVATORY HIVE. No. 20.

[Illustration]

This hive is well adapted for those persons who are desirous of

having the opportunity of closely examining the workmanship of these

industrious and interesting insects. It is particularly intended

for a window recess or an indoor apiary; and will also be found an

interesting addition to the green house. An aperture should be cut in

the sash corresponding with the entrance to the hive, through which the

bees may find egress and ingress, without being able to gain access to

the apartment, as on the plan in the case of the Ladies' Observatory

Hive.

The Unicomb Hive is constructed of so narrow a width between this

plates of glass that it admits of one comb only to be built, and at the

same time leaves space between the comb and the glass on either side

for the bees to pass and repass. It is thus made so that every bee may

be exposed to view. The queen forming the most prominent feature of

attention, she is readily distinguished by the greater length of her

body, as well as by the attention paid to her by the other bees.

The mode of stocking this hive is as follows:--procure a strong swarm

if practicable, and let it be first hived into a common straw hive in

the usual way. Take care to make the necessary preparations previous

to the operation of stocking; for this purpose first unscrew the top

and take out the bar intended for the foundation of the comb. A sort

of wooden trough, contrived to act as a funnel, is provided with this

hive. It is in separate pieces, so as to be packed conveniently, and

requires screwing together. The funnel must now be attached to the

hive, and care be taken that it is quite firmly fixed--the metal plates

are attached for this purpose. Having made these preparations at dusk,

dash the bees out on to a cloth or sheet spread on the ground, place

four pieces of wood so as to raise the hive a little from the cloth;

then invert the hive so as to have the funnel downwards, placing it

over the bees, and letting it rest on the four pieces of wood just

named. In a short time (say half an hour or an hour) the bees will

ascend into the hive; they will go up more quickly if occasionally

stirred with the feather of a goose quill.

When the bees have ascended into the hive, take off the funnel, replace

the bar, screw on the top board, take it to the place intended for it

permanently to occupy, and which has been prepared for it. It will be

as well to screen the hive from view for a few days until the bees

become settled in their new domicile. Although this hive is constructed

of double glass to keep up a more uniform degree of warmth, still from

the cold nature of glass and the close contact into which the bees

are brought with it, it is advisable to place flannel between the

outer shutters and the glass of the hive on both sides; this is found

essential in winter, and very much adds to the comfort of the bees if

placed so every cold night during most of the year. In the day time

in summer months with the hive being of double glass the whole may be

fully exposed to view. If the temperature of the apartment in which the

hive stands be kept at 60 degrees, this extra attention will not be

so needful. Bees cease to appear disturbed when the exposure to light

is continuous. As soon as the bees are settled, comb building will

immediately commence, and in about two weeks' time there will be one

comb spreading over the whole hive. The queen may be viewed depositing

her eggs, and all the usual operations of the rearing of brood,

storing of honey, and the building of combs, will be open to full

inspection, with perfect ease to the spectator. As an object of lively

and permanent interest for the breakfast parlour or conservatory, the

"Unicomb Observatory Hive" may be regarded as infinitely superior to an

Aquarium or Fernery.

At the Exposition Universelle of 1855 in Paris, we exhibited a hive

of this description in full working order. The bees left London on

the 5th of July of that year, and were placed in the Exposition on

the following morning. An entrance was made for them through the

side of the building, as before explained. Our bees had no national

antipathies, and they immediately sallied forth to their "fresh fields

and pastures new" in the Champs Elysées, the gardens of the Tuileries,

the Luxembourg, &c., whence they soon returned laden with luscious

store from French flowers.

The Jurors of the Exposition awarded us a Prize Medal for bee-hives.

WOODBURY UNICOMB HIVE.

[Illustration]

The "Woodbury Unicomb Hive" has many advantages over hives of this kind

as previously constructed. The engraving shows the interior compartment

divided into six; these are six Woodbury frames. The inner sash opens

to admit of hanging up the frames on the notches prepared for them. The

width of the hive between the glasses of the sashes is just sufficient

to admit of one thickness of comb with space on either side for the

bees to pass and repass, the same as in Neighbour's Unicomb. There

is, however, a great advantage in the use of this hive; with it, any

one possessing a Woodbury box or straw bar and frame hive can readily

commence a Unicomb, and as readily put the combs and bees back into the

square hive again. The outside shutters on either side are composed of

Venetian blinds admitting daylight, but obscuring the rays of the sun.

We had the entrance made at one end, as represented in our drawing;

this alteration was made after the pattern of the hive from which Mr.

Woodbury allowed us to copy. His own was intended to stand wholly out

of doors, and had two central entrances, one on either side at the

bottom, the hive itself turning on a pivot.

When the hive was being examined on one side, the entrance was closed

by a piece of wood inserted in it, and when the other side was brought

round to be inspected, the piece of wood withdrawn and placed in the

opposite entrance. This was a most ingenious contrivance; but it did

not answer our purpose for indoors. When Mr. Woodbury sent us his

hive, we were preparing for the International Exhibition of 1862, and

in placing it against the sides of the building, we followed our old

plan for ingress by having the entrance at the end. Since that time

we have made a considerable improvement by adapting Mr. Woodbury's

cleverly contrived turn-table to suit our own hive. Like Mr. Woodbury's

hive, ours has two iron wheels, the one fixed to the bottom of the

hive, the other fixed to a stout board running the full length of the

hive; on these two wheels the whole hive turns. In the centre there is

an opening into the hive, with a passage-way running underneath, so

that the bees' entrance is in no way affected by the position of the

hive, which revolves to suit the convenience of visitors inspecting it.

Should the queen with her attendants not be visible on one side, the

other side of the comb can be brought into full view, and examined with

the same facility as a picture, or as articles are inspected in a shop

window. Thus, in the Unicomb Observatory Hive, the sovereign mother,

her train of servitors, the drones with their aimless movements, and

the crowd of ever busy workers--either building their combs or storing

honey--may be always seen as presenting a veritable "Tableau vivant."

Another improvement that we have made upon Mr. Woodbury's pattern is

that of accommodating the frames; his was constructed before frame

hives were in use, consequently it is only suitable for combs on bars.

Our adaptation has necessitated an increase in size. The dimensions are

nearly 3 feet square and 7 inches deep from back to front. Provision is

made at top for feeding and for working two small flat top glasses for

deprivation, which are protected by the weather board.

An alighting board is placed at the centre, close under the entrance,

when the hive is located out of doors. When the hive is placed indoors,

a passage-way about 18 inches long, covered with glass, is fixed to the

entrance, the other end communicating with an opening in the wall or

sash; through this the bees find access, an alighting board being fixed

outside the building. It is requisite that the passage-way be about

this length, in order to allow of the hive turning round clear of the

side of the building.

In the summer of 1863 we had ample proof of the success of this hive

during its exhibition at the annual show of the Bath and West of

England Agricultural Society at Exeter. We selected six combs, and

packed them in one of the square box "Woodbury bar and frame" hives,

and on arrival at Exeter, Mr. Woodbury assisted us in taking out the

frames and placing them in the Unicomb. That being fixed against the

boarded side of a shed, we found the covered way a great convenience,

and it answered remarkably well; the bees did not seem to be

inconvenienced by having to travel through so long a passage. A glass

covering admitted a full view of the little labourers as they crowded

in, and the sight of them very much enhanced the interest of visitors

examining the hive.[4]

[Footnote 4: It may require explanation how it was that we took bees

to Exeter, which sounds something like "carrying coals to Newcastle."

The reason was this--the garden of our friend, Mr. Woodbury, at Mount

Radford, from which we could have been supplied, was so near to the

show yard that he was apprehensive a large number of the bees would

return to their old hives. Our bees from a distance would, according to

their nature, return to their own hive, for bees although they may be

moved miles away, take care to mark their new position, and are careful

to return to it. Mr. Woodbury lent us a small stock of his Ligurian

bees, and between it and our own hive the crowd of visitors divided

their attention.]

Since the time before mentioned, we have exhibited bees at the meetings

of the Bath and West of England Agricultural Society at Bristol, and of

the Royal Agricultural Society at Newcastle in 1864. On both occasions

further proof was given that this hive admirably answers the purpose

intended, and it afforded pleasure and interest to many thousands of

visitors.

Mode of Stocking.--The Unicomb hive may be stocked in two

ways, which have been previously referred to. The bee-keeper may either

select the comb upon which the queen is found and put it into the hive,

and so form an artificial swarm; or he may take six brood-combs from a

hive, and so stock the "Unicomb" at once, which we did for the show at

Exeter.

The former plan is, perhaps, the most advisable, because new comb

has to be built within the five frames; for, be it remembered, in

this case five empty frames must be put in. It is a better plan still

if artificial combs are placed in each frame so as to afford an

interesting opportunity of watching the formation of the cells therein.

The combs are sure to be dark in colour when taken from a stock hive;

and new combs being whiter have a better appearance in the hive. The

comb upon which the queen was introduced may be taken away after the

artificial swarm has made combs within some of the other five frames;

when the queen is on one of the new combs, opportunity may easily be

taken for opening the hive and removing the old dark comb. The bees can

easily be shaken or brushed off the comb, and will return to the hive.

The comb with the unhatched brood may be deposited in any square hive

that needs strengthening. We mention this to show how to obtain a hive

with entirely fine white comb.

If the possessor of a square Woodbury frame-hive wishes to start a

strong Unicomb hive, and does not object to appropriate the stock, he

must take out of the Woodbury hive any six combs on the frames, and put

the Unicomb in its place so as to receive all the returning bees that

happen to be abroad; the remaining four combs, supposing there are ten,

may be inserted in any other frame hives in the garden in which are

vacancies for them.

We have had this hive in operation, in the manner last described,

during the summer of 1863, and found it to answer remarkably well. On

a lawn, placed on a suitable ornamental stand, it formed a pleasing

object, besides affording great interest and instruction.

In Unicomb hives stocked with a natural swarm (as is generally the

plan), there is considerable difficulty in keeping the bees alive

through the winter. In a hive where the combs are removeable, no loss

of bees need be occasioned. We do not recommend the hive we are now

describing as a winter residence for bees. For four months in the

year, when bees are most active and when their operations are most

interesting, this hive may be brought into use, either of the two plans

before described being adopted. An artificial swarm should be put in

during May or June, and taken out, in the method before mentioned, and

then placed in the square box during the month of September; sometimes

it may do for a stock to be put in a month or so earlier, but should

never be retained later in this hive. In October we often have cold

nights; the bees and brood being in such close contact with the glass,

and not able to cluster as is their natural wont, suffer from exposure

to the variations of temperature. In some degree to moderate this. Me

have used treble glass with a space between each square; greater warmth

is thus attained, and the view is not intercepted. Opportunity should

be taken for cleaning the Unicomb hive when empty, so as to be ready

for re-stocking as a new hive in the following summer. The "Unicomb

Observatory" hive is one which might have been suggested by the lines

of Evans:--

By this blest art our ravished eyes behold

The singing masons build their roofs of gold.

And mingling multitudes perplex the view,

Yet all in order apt their tasks pursue;

Still happier they whose favoured ken hath seen

Pace slow and silent round, the state's fair queen.

HUBER'S HIVE. No. 19.

To Francis Huber--not improperly styled the "Prince of

Apiarians,"--we are indebted for more extensive and accurate

observations on the habits of the Bee than has been contributed by all

other observers since the time of Aristotle.

During the early period of Huber's investigations, he prosecuted them

by means of single comb hives which allow of each side of the comb

being examined. He found, however, that these had one important defect.

The bees could not in these hives cluster together, which is their

natural method of withstanding the effects of a reduced temperature.

Huber hit upon the ingenious expedient of combining a number of single

comb frames so as to form one complete hive, which could be opened in

order to expose any particular comb, without disturbing the rest. From

the manner of the opening and closing of this hive, it has generally

been called the "Leaf or Book Hive." The division separating each

comb is joined both back and front with "butt hinges," fastened with

a moveable pin, on withdrawing which, at either side, each comb and

the bees on it may be inspected as easily as if in a single comb

hive. Huber's Leaf Hive is thus in appearance as if several of those

"History of England" back-gammon chess boards were set up on end

together. The floorboard on which the hive stands is larger than the

hive when closed, so as to allow of its being opened freely at any

particular "volume." An entrance way for the bees is hollowed out of

the floorboard as in other hives. There is a glass window in each end

of the hive, which is provided with a shutter.

There is, however, one serious objection to Huber's hive, which,

though not noticed by him or his careful assistant, has prevented its

general use. That is, the difficulty there is in closing it without

crushing some of the bees, a catastrophe which, by exasperating their

comrades, is certain to interfere with any experiments. There is no

such risk in the Bar and Frame Hive, whilst in it every facility

possessed by Huber's is retained; so that we strongly recommend

scientific apiarians, in preference to Huber's, that they should use

some kind of Bar and Frame Hive. We have here introduced a description

of Huber's Leaf Hive (and should be glad to exhibit one) for the sake

of its historic interest in connection with apiarian science. The

invention was invaluable for Huber himself, and it suggested to other

apiarians the adoption of the present plan of vertical bars and frames.

The character of Huber, and the circumstances under which he pursued

his observations, are so remarkable, that we need scarcely apologize

for stating a few particulars respecting him here. He was born at

Geneva in July, 1750, his family being in honourable station and noted

for talent. Just as he attained to manhood he lost his sight, and

remained blind to the end of his days. This apparently insuperable

obstacle in the way of scientific observation, was overcome by the

remarkable fidelity with which Burnens, his assistant, watched the

bees, and reported their movements to Huber, Madame Huber also who,

although betrothed to him before his calamity, had remained constant

in her affection, assisted in the investigations with great assiduity

during their long and happy wedded life. We quote the following from

"Memoirs of Huber," by Professor de Candolle:--

"We have seen the blind shine as poets, and distinguish themselves as

philosophers, musicians, and calculators; but it was reserved for Huber

to give a lustre to his class in the sciences of observation, and on

objects so minute that the most clear-sighted observer can scarcely

perceive them. The reading of the works of Reaumur and Bonnet, and

the conversation of the latter, directed his curiosity to the history

of bees. His habitual residence in the country inspired him with the

desire, first of verifying some facts, then of filling some blanks

in their history; but this kind of observation required not only

the use of such an instrument as the optician must furnish, but an

intelligent assistant, who alone could adjust it to its use. He had

then a servant named Francis Burnens, remarkable for his sagacity

and for the devotion he bore for his master. Huber practiced him in

the art of observation, directed him to his researches by questions

adroitly combined, and aided by the recollections of his youth, and by

the testimonies of his wife and friends, he rectified the assertions of

his assistant, and became enabled to form in his own mind a true and

perfect image of the manifest facts. 'I am much more certain,' said he,

smiling, to a scientific friend, 'of what I state than you are, for you

publish what your own eyes only have seen, while I take the mean among

many witnesses.' This is, doubtless, very plausible reasoning, but very

few persons will by it be rendered distrustful of their own eyesight."

The results of Huber's observations were published in 1792, in the form

of letters to Ch. Bonnet, under the title of "Nouvelles Observation

sur les Abeilles." This work made a strong impression upon many

naturalists, not only because of the novelty of the facts stated, and

the excellent inductive reasoning employed, but also on account of the

rigorous accuracy of the observations recorded, when it was considered

with what an extraordinary difficulty the author had to struggle.

Huber retained the clear faculties of his observant mind until his

death, which took place on the 22nd of December, 1831. Most of the

facts relating to the impregnation of the queen, the formation of

cells, and the whole economy of the bee-community as discovered

and described by Huber, have received full confirmation from the

investigations of succeeding naturalists.

[Illustration]

III. EXTERIOR ARRANGEMENTS AND APPARATUS.

BEE-HOUSE TO CONTAIN TWO HIVES. No. 39.

[Illustration: Front View of Bee-House.]

There is no contrivance for protecting hives from the weather so

complete as a bee-house one, which also admits of an easy inspection of

the hives ranged therein. This arrangement is especially convenient for

lady bee-keepers.

The folding doors behind the bee-house have only to be opened, and the

hives are at once exposed to full view. If the cover of the bee-hive

be lifted as well as the shutters opened, the hives and the glasses

may be deliberately inspected, without any danger of molestation from

the bees. Thus the progress made by the busy multitude in building and

filling their combs may be watched by the bee-keeper, from day to day

with great and increasing interest.

[Illustration: Back View of the Interior.]

Here our engraving shows the back view of the bee-house, the interior

being furnished with two of our 'No. 5 cottage hives. Two suspended

weights will be noticed; these are to balance the top hives which cover

the glasses; the cord for each, runs on pulleys, so that the covers can

be easily raised and as easily shut down again when the inspection is

finished. We may here remark, that it is not well to keep the glasses

long exposed to full light and view.

The front of the bee-house being closely boarded, a passage way is

contrived for the bees by which they have egress and ingress, without

being able to gain access to the house. The hives must be kept close

to the front boarding of the house, so as to prevent the opening of

any crevices which the bees might mistake for the entrance to their

hives, and so find their way into the house. The front view of this

bee-house shows the ordinary contrivance for entrance; the sliding zinc

entrances may also be advantageously fixed as shown in the engraving of

a "Bee-house to contain twelve hives." In many parts of the country,

hives and honey are sometimes stolen from the garden; the bee-houses we

furnish have a lock and key to prevent depredations of this kind.

Care must be taken to keep the bee-houses free from spiders and other

insects. In some districts ants are numerous and troublesome. The plan

we recommend for excluding them is to put some pitch round the four

supports of the bee-house; or, better still, strips of loose flannel or

other woollen material that is absorbent, which have previously been

soaked in lamp-oil. We use sperm oil, being the slowest drying oil we

know of. A piece of string will keep the flannel close to the wood,

and then neither ant or any other insect will pass up; so that by this

simple means the hives may, so to speak, be insulated and placed beyond

their reach. As the oil dries up it can easily be renewed. We have

found this an effectual remedy against these insidious enemies of bees.

[Illustration]

BEE-HOUSE TO CONTAIN TWELVE HIVES. No. 40.

[Illustration: Back View of the above, showing the Interior.]

Where economy of room is a consideration, we fit up bee-houses with a

double row of hives, one above the other. Our engravings show the back

and front of a house of this kind, having an ornamental zinc gutter to

prevent the wet from dripping on to the alighting board.

When a number of hives are thus together, we colour the alighting

boards differently, so that bees may have a distinctive mark by which

each may know its own home, and not wander into its neighbour's house.

Bees readily enough receive a honey laden labourer into a hive; but if

the wanderer be poor and empty, he will be promptly repulsed, and may

have to forfeit his life for his mistake. Queens returning from their

wedding trip, are liable to mistake their hive if all the entrances are

so much alike that a noticeable difference is not easily apparent.

A queen entering a hive already supplied with a fruitful sovereign

would be certain to be killed. The loss to the hive to which the queen

belonged is a most serious one. Hives are often made queenless from

this cause, and thereby reduced to utter ruin; the bee-master perhaps

attributing his loss to something altogether different.

BEE-HOUSE TO CONTAIN NINE HIVES. No. 41.

[Illustration]

This engraving represents a bee-house adapted for having a number of

hives in a limited space. Three rows of hives, one above the other.

We do not recommend a bee-house of this construction; it is difficult

to erect one to afford space for super hives, without it being so

inconveniently high as to be liable to be blown over by strong winds.

Hives thus located in a bee-house are not exposed to so much change

of temperature and the stocks generally pass the winter well. Here we

may introduce the meditations of a German apiarian, as he describes

the advantages of a bee-house for the bees, and his own pleasure in

watching over his pets in the winter, as they dwell so comfortably and

safely. It is true that Heer Braun associates still choicer delights

with the simple pleasures of bee-keeping, but as Mr. Woodbury has not

excluded the higher theme from his translation, we need not hesitate to

quote the whole:--

EVENING THOUGHTS IN JANUARY.

(_Translated from the German of_ Adalbert Braun.)

By "A Devonshire Bee-keeper."

Within my little garden

Stands also a bee-house,

And bees therein protected

From sly tomtit or mouse.

How quietly they're sitting!

And little trouble give,

Beyond the needful watching,

How undisturb'd they live;

That all, indeed, are living

In strong unbroken health,

And, in the brood-nest hanging,

Consume their hoarded wealth--

That in the dwindling store-room

Sufficient stores remain,

Until the rape-plant donneth

Its blossom dress again.

Thus daily do I visit

My garden and my bees,

Neglecting thereby often

My dinner and my ease.

Thank God! they all were humming

Within their hives to-day;

Nor could I find a symptom

Of hunger or decay.

And yet what ardent longing

I feel, O Spring, for thee!

My darlings' gleesome frolics

Are happiness to me!

How would this anxious longing

Consume my very breast,

But for a little being

So full of love and jest.

In heat or cold who prattles

Around me ev'ry day,

And stills the throes of longing

By commune blithe and gay.

Ye bee-keepers can value

A joy that is complete;

It is my wife--the darling--

Whose lips are honey-sweet.

With e'en the richest bee-stand

Were joy and pleasure gone,

If my heart's queen were wanting

And I left here alone.

Thus her I love and honour.

No difference have we,

But oft-times go together,

Our little pets to see.

Her kisses sweet removing

All sorrow from my breast,

And honied joys surrounding

Proclaim us highly blest.

T. W. Woodbury, _Mount Radford, Exeter_.

[Illustration]

[Illustration: Exterior of an Apiary.

As originally erected in the Zoological Gardens, Regents Park.]

[Illustration: Interior of the above.

May be taken as suggestive for the construction or appropriation of

rooms for larger Apiaries in summer houses or other outbuildings.]

ZINC COVER. No. 37.

[Illustration]

This is a simple and inexpensive covering for a No. 5, or other cottage

straw hive when exposed in the garden. It fits close on to the upper

hive, coming sufficiently low to protect from the sun and rain, without

obscuring the whole hive.

These covers are painted green, that colour being generally preferred.

ORNAMENTAL ZINC COVER. No. 38.

[Illustration]

The annexed engraving of the Ornamental Zinc Cover renders but little

description necessary. The illustration shows one of our No. 5 improved

cottage hives on a stand. Three clumps of wood must be driven into the

ground, and the three iron rods supporting the covering made fast to

them with screws. There are screw holes in the feet of the iron rods

for the purpose; when thus secured, but little fear need be entertained

of its being blown over by high winds.

In the roof two pulleys are fixed, so that by attaching a cord, the

upper hive covering the bell glass supers may be raised with facility

for the purpose of observing the progress made by the bees.

The Ornamental Zinc Cover will form a pleasing object in the flower

garden when placed in a suitable position on the grass plot. It is

painted green; the iron rods are of such a length as to support the

roof at a convenient height from the ground.

COVER OF ZINC. No. 29.

[Illustration]

This zinc cover introduced by H. Taylor, Esq., for his cottage hive

(No. 14) will also be found useful as a protection from wet for many

other descriptions of round straw hives.

BELL GLASSES.

[Illustration: 25.]

[Illustration: 26.]

[Illustration: 27.]

25. To contain 10 lbs., 10 inches high, 7 inches wide.

26. To contain 6 lbs., 7 inches high, 5½ inches wide.

27. To contain 3 lbs., 5 inches high, 4 inches wide.

These bell glasses are used in the hives before described. No. 25 is

for Nutt's Hive (No. 1); No. 26 is for our Improved Cottage Hive (No.

5); No. 27 is a very small glass, one that is not often used, and which

we do not recommend. Bees will generally fill a middle sized glass

quite as soon as one so small as this.

BELL GLASSES. No. 24.

[Illustration]

These glasses have been introduced by Mr. Taylor, and are recommended

as preferable to deep narrow glasses.

The drawings will show that they are straight at the sides, flat at the

top inside, with a knob outside to take hold by, through which is an ½

inch opening to admit a ventilating tube.

The larger is 6 inches deep, 12 inches wide; smaller 5 inches deep, 9½

inches wide.

[Illustration]

The late Mr. J. H. Payne, of Bury, author of the "Bee-keeper's Guide,"

introduced another glass. It has a 3 inch hole in the centre, the

purpose of which is to tempt bees to produce additional and larger

stores of honey. It is to be used as follows:--when a bell glass is

half or quite filled, raise it, and place the Payne's glass over the

hole of the stock hive, with the filled glass on it over the 3 inch

hole. The bees will bring their combs through, and thus Mr. Payne found

that they would store more honey than if the bell glass were removed

and another empty one put in its place. Of course the first glass must

be smaller in diameter than the Payne's glass, so as to rest upon it.

BELL GLASS. No. 28.

[Illustration]

This is a glass super to be placed on the hive in a similar way to

the bell glasses already alluded to. It has the advantages of being

straight at the sides, flat at top, and without a knob; so that when

filled it may be brought on to the breakfast table, inverted, on a

plate. The glass lid shown in the engraving forms a cover, and fits

over outside, so as not to interfere with the combs within. These flat

top glasses, like those with a knob, have a hole through which a zinc

ventilating tube is inserted.

GUIDE COMB FOR GLASSES.

In some of our previous allusions to the best mode of inducing bees

to commence working in glasses, we have recommended attaching guide

comb. We will now more particularly explain how this attraction can be

best applied. We have already shown how bees may be induced to make

use of guide combs fixed to bars, and the same principle is applicable

to glasses. These may be filled with great regularity by adopting the

following directions, which we believe have never before appeared in

print:--

Procure a piece of clean new empty worker honey-comb which has not had

honey in it (because honey will prevent adhesion to the glass); cut

it up into pieces of about three quarters of an inch square. Gently

warm the exterior of the glass; this we find is best done by holding

the glass horizontally for a short time over the flame of a candle;

then apply one of the pieces of empty comb inside at the part warmed,

taking care in fixing it that the pitch or inclination of the cells is

upwards--in fact, place the guide comb in the same relative position

that it occupied in the hive or glass from which it was taken. There is

some danger of making the glass too warm, which will cause the comb to

melt, and the wax to run down the side, leaving an unsightly appearance

on the glass; this should be carefully avoided, and a little experience

will soon enable the operator to determine the degree of warmth

sufficient to make the comb adhere without any of it being melted. It

is hardly necessary to state that only the very whitest combs ought to

be used. A short time should be allowed before changing the position

of the glass, so that it may cool sufficiently to hold the comb in its

place. Six or eight pieces may thus be fixed, so that when the glass is

filled, it will present a star shape, all the combs radiating from the

centre. The annexed engraving shows the appearance of a glass as worked

by the bees, in which guide combs were fixed in the manner described

above. The drawing was taken from a glass of our own filled after being

thus furnished.

[Illustration]

In the Old Museum at the Royal Gardens, Kew, may be seen a Taylor's

glass presented by us, some of the combs in which are elongated on

the outside to the breadth of six inches. We believe that not only

does a glass present a much handsomer appearance when thus worked--and

will, on that account, most fully reward the trouble of fixing guide

comb--but that more honey is stored in the same space and in less time

than if the glass be placed on the hive merely in a naked condition for

the bees to follow their own devices.

This mode of fixing guide comb does not solely apply to this shaped

glass, but is equally useful for all kinds of glasses. It is introduced

in connection with No. 28, because that glass having a flat top and no

knob, the regularity is more clearly apparent.

The working of bees in the bell glasses illustrates how tractable their

disposition really is if only scope be allowed for the due exercise

of their natural instinct. They have no secrets in their economy, and

they do not shrink from our constant observation as they daily pursue

their simple policy of continuous thrift and persevering accumulation.

Yet it is only owing to the labours of successive inventors that

we are now enabled to watch "the very pulse of the machine" of the

bee-commonwealth:--

"Long from the eye of man and face of day,

Involved in darkness all their customs lay,

Until a sage well versed in Nature's lore,

A genius formed all science to explore;

Hives well contrived, in crystal frames disposed.

And there the busy citizens disclosed."--Murphy's _Vaniere_.

THE NEW BOTTLE FEEDER. No. 44.

[Illustration]

It has long been acknowledged that the best mode of feeding bees is

through an opening at the top of the stock hive. The "new bottle

feeder" is a simple and good means of administering food when a stock

requires help in that way. Any kind of hive that has an opening at the

top may thus be fed; bees can take the food from it without leaving the

hive. Another important feature is the cleanliness with which liberal

feeding can be accomplished; and few operations require more care than

does feeding. If liquid sweet is left hanging about the hive, it tempts

robber bees, and when once the bees of an apiary have had a taste,

there is no knowing where their depredations will stop; they resolutely

attack and endeavour to rob other hives, fighting and killing one

another to a considerable extent. Even if no hives be completely

destroyed, weakness from loss of numbers will be the portion of most,

if not all, the hives in the garden.

The morals of our favorites are here a good deal at fault, for the

strongest hives, when their inordinate passion is thus stirred up

by the carelessness or want of knowledge of the bee-keeper, attack

and prey upon the weak. To be "forewarned is to be forearmed"--and

"prevention is better than cure." We strongly recommend closely

covering up the feeder; one of the middle size bell glasses put over it

makes a close fitting cover, should the regular cover to the hive not

be sufficiently tight: when bees are not kept in a bee-house--and are

on that account more accessible--this extra care is more particularly

needed. The right time for feeding is in the autumn or spring. A stock

of bees at Michaelmas ought to weigh 20 lbs. exclusive of the hive, and

if then it weigh less, the deficiency should be made up by artificial

food. It is not wise to defer doing this until later in the season,

because it is important that when the food is placed in the cells, the

bees should seal it up, and a tolerably warm temperature is required to

enable them to secrete the wax for the delicately formed lids of the

cells. If the food remain unsealed, there is danger of its turning sour

and thereby causing disease among the bees. It is not well to feed in

mid-winter or when the weather is very cold. Bees at such times consume

but little food, being in a state of torpor, from which it is better

not to arouse them.

A little food in the spring stimulates the queen to lay more

abundantly, for bees are provident, and do not rear the young

so rapidly when the supplies are short. In this particular the

intelligence of bees is very striking; they have needed no Malthus to

teach them that the means of subsistence must regulate the increase of

a prosperous population:

"The prescient female rears the tender brood

In strict proportion to the hoarded food."--Evans.

Judgment has, however, to be exercised by the apiarian in

giving food, for it is quite possible to do _mischief by over feeding_.

The bees when over-fed will fill so many of the combs with honey that

the queen in the early spring cannot find empty cells in which to

deposit her eggs, and by this means the progress of the hive is much

retarded, a result that should be guarded against.

The following directions will show how the bottle feeder is to be

used:--Fill the bottle with liquid food, place the net fixed on with an

India-rubber band over the mouth, place the block over the hole of the

stock hive, invert the bottle, the neck resting within the hole in the

block; the bees will put their proboscises through the perforations and

imbibe the food, thus causing the bottle to act on the principle of a

fountain. The bottle being glass, it is easy to see when the food is

consumed. The piece of perforated zinc is for the purpose of preventing

the bees from clinging to the net, or escaping from the hive when the

bottle is taken away for the purpose of refilling. A very good syrup

for bees may be made by boiling 6 lbs. of honey with 2 lbs. of water

for a few minutes; or loaf sugar, in the proportion of 3 lbs. to 2 lbs.

of water, answers very well when honey is not to be obtained.

ROUND BEE FEEDER. No. 10.

[Illustration]

Round bee-feeders are made of zinc and earthenware; 8 inches across, 3

inches deep. The projection outside is a receptacle for pouring in the

food; the bees gain access to the feeder through a round hole, which

is placed either at the centre or nearer one side, whichever may best

suit the openings on the top of the stock hive. The feeder occupies a

similar position to that of the glasses or cap hives in the gathering

season. A circular piece of glass, cut so as to fit into a groove,

prevents the bees escaping and retains the warmth within the hive,

whilst it affords opportunity for inspecting the bees whilst feeding.

The feeders were originally only made of zinc; but some bee-keepers

advised the use of earthenware, and a few have been made to meet the

wishes of those who give the preference to that material.

When the bees are fed from above in this manner, the feeder is kept at

a warm temperature by the heat of the hive. In common hives cottagers

feed the bees by pushing under the hive thin slips of wood scooped

out, into which the food is poured. This plan of feeding can only be

had recourse to at night, and the pieces of wood must be removed in

the morning. By feeding at the top of the stock hive any interruption

of the bees is avoided. For further instructions on this head see the

directions given for using the bottle feeder.

A ZINC FOUNTAIN BEE FEEDER. No. 15.

[Illustration]

We invented the fountain bee-feeder so that a larger supply of liquid

food might be given to a hive than is practicable with the No. 10 round

feeder.

The liquid honey is poured in at the opening, which unscrews; whilst

being filled, the inside slide closing the opening through which

the food passes into the feeding pan, should be shut down. When the

reservoir is filled, the screw is made fast, and the slide being

withdrawn, a wooden float pierced with small holes, through which the

bees take the food, forms a false bottom, and rises and falls with the

liquid. This feeder being on the syphon principle, like a poultry

or bird water-fountain, is supplied from the reservoir until that is

empty. A piece of glass is fixed in the side of the reservoir, in order

that the bee-keeper may see when it is emptied. A flat piece of glass

on the top prevents the bees from escaping, and through it they may be

inspected whilst feeding. The bees find access to the feeder on to the

perforated float through the central round hole, which is placed over a

corresponding hole in the stock hive.

NUTT'S DRAWER FEEDER. No. 9.

[Illustration]

This is the feeding drawer, alluded to in the explanation of the

management of the No. 1 Nutt's Collateral Hive, for feeding at the

bottom of the middle or stock box. The feeder is made of tin, and of a

square form, so as to fit the drawer (see page 19).

HONEY CUTTERS. No. 13.

[Illustration]

Honey Cutters are used for removing comb from boxes and glasses without

damaging it. The flat bladed knife is for disconnecting the combs from

the sides; the hook shaped one is for the same purpose, to be applied

to the top or horizontal part of the box or glass.

FUMIGATOR. No. 11.

[Illustration]

This Fumigator is a tin box, somewhat like a pepper box upon a foot.

It is a simple adaptation of the fumigating apparatus described by Mr.

Nutt, and is used in the following manner. Have a straw hive or other

vessel ready, that will match in circumference the hive intended to be

fumigated. If the empty hive have a conical top, it will not remain

crown downwards without a rest; in this case, it will be convenient to

invert it on a pail. Having ascertained that the hive to be operated

upon and the empty one in its reversed position nearly match in size,

take half a packet of the prepared fungus, fire it well, and place it

in the box or fumigator; placing this in the centre of the empty hive,

then bring the occupied hive directly over, so as to receive the fumes

of smoke. To keep all close, put a wet cloth round the place where

the two hives meet. In a minute or two the bees may be heard dropping

heavily into the lower empty hive, where they lie stupefied. After a

little while, the old hive may be tapped upon to make the bees fall

more quickly. On removing the upper hive, the bees from it will be

found lying quiet at the bottom of the lower one. Place a sheet on the

ground, and spread the bees on it, then with a feather sort them over,

in order to pick out the queen-bee. As soon as the queen is found,

then pour the rest of the lethargic swarm from off the sheet back into

the inverted hive again. The stupefied bees must now be sprinkled

freely with a syrup made of honey and water, or sugar and ale boiled

together. Some apiarians recommend a few drops of peppermint to be

mixed with the syrup, in order to drown the peculiar odour which is

special to each hive of bees,--this is more necessary when two hives

of bees are fumigated and whilst under the influence of smoke are well

mixed together. The hive containing the bees with which it is intended

to unite the stupefied bees, must now be placed on the top of that

containing the latter, just as the hive was from which they have come.

A wet cloth must be fastened round the two hives, so as to prevent

any of the bees from escaping. The hives in this position must be

placed where they are not likely to be knocked down or meddled with.

The fresh bees in the upper hive, attracted by the scent of the bees

besmeared with honey, go down and commence to lick off the sweets from

the sprinkled sleepy ones. The latter gradually revive, when all get

mingled together, and ascend in company to the upper hive, where they

live as if they had not been separate families.

The two hives should be left undisturbed for twenty-four hours, then

the upper hive may be removed and placed immediately on the spot from

whence it was brought. The reason the queen is recommended to be taken

is to prevent any fighting.

The queen should be kept alive and fed as long as she will live, in

case any harm should befall the sovereign of the other community.

THE FUMIGATOR. No. 12.

[Illustration]

The Fumigator is useful for several purposes. When a frame hive has to

be disturbed it is requisite to raise the lid and blow a little smoke

into the hive, so as to check the angry passions of the bees. If it be

desirable to stupefy the bees, ignited fungus must be placed in the

box, and the flattened end applied to the entrance of the hive; the

smoke is then blown in--either with bellows or by applying the mouth

of the operator,--taking care to close all openings through which the

smoke can escape. The bees fall down stupefied, generally in about ten

minutes, but the effect varies according to the populousness of the

hive and the quantity of comb in it. The projected operations must now

be performed speedily, as activity will soon be regained. See preceding

directions.

THE BEE DRESS OR PROTECTOR. No. 31.

[Illustration]

All operations connected with the removal or the hiving of bees

should be conducted with calmness and circumspection. Bees, although

the busiest of creatures, have great dislike to fussiness in their

masters, and become irritable at once if the apiarian lets them see

that he is in a hurry. Hence, there is great advantage in having the

face and hands covered whilst at work amongst the bees; for when the

operator knows he cannot possibly be stung, he can then open his hives,

take out the combs, gather in his swarms, or take the honey, with all

the deliberation of a philosopher. Various kinds of bee dresses have

been contrived; one that we keep ready in stock is of very simple

construction. It is made of strong _black net_, in shape like an

inverted bag, large enough to allow of a gentleman's wide-awake or a

lady's hat being worn underneath. The projection of the hat or cap

causes the dress to stand off from the face; and the meshes of the net,

though much too small for a bee to penetrate, are wide enough to allow

of clear vision for the operator. An elastic band secures the dress

round the waist; the sleeves also--made of durable black calico--are

secured at the wrists by a similar method. The hands of the bee-master

may be effectually protected with a pair of India-rubber gloves, which

should be put on before the dress is fastened round the wrists. This

kind of glove is regularly used by photographers, and allows of perfect

ease in manipulation.

Thus a very simple and inexpensive means of protection will enable

even a novice in bee-keeping to make his observations and conduct

his experiments under a sense of perfect security. Still he need not

be careless as to the feelings of his bees; his success and their

comfort will be promoted by his "handling them gently, and as if he

loved them." "Familiarity" between bees and their master "breed" not

"contempt," but affection.

Any sudden or clumsy movement which jars the combs or frames will

excite the bees, and if but one should be crushed, the odour of their

slaughtered comrade rouses them to a pitch of exasperation. Their

powers of smell are very acute. The best time for most operations is in

the middle of a fine day.

ENGRAVED PRESSING ROLLER. No. 46.

FOR THE GUIDANCE OF BEES IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF HONEY-COMB ON THE BARS.

[Illustration]

This is an engraved metal roller, which when applied to the coated

underside of a comb-bar leaves an impression like the diagram shown.

The wax having been spread on the flat bar, the roller, heated by being

put into hot water, is then heavily pressed over it. The roller has

two wood handles, so that considerable pressure may be given to it.

The roller is a little less than 2 inches in diameter, ⅞ of an inch

wide, and the length from handle to handle is 6 inches. The diagram

shows the full size of the impressions as left on the wax after

passing the roller along the comb bar in the manner above described.

It is a contrivance invented in Switzerland, and exhibited in the

International Exhibition of 1862, when the pattern roller was purchased

by ourselves.

The bars of a hive prepared with these markings in wax afford ready

made foundations for regular combs, which very much facilitate the

operations of the bees.

IMPRESSED WAX SHEETS FOR ARTIFICIAL COMB.

These artificial partition walls for combs are sheets of genuine

wax, about the substance of thin cardboard. They receive rhomboidal

impressions by being pressed between two metal plates, carefully and

mathematically prepared and cast so that the impressions are exactly

the same size as the base of the cells of a honey-comb. An inspection

of a piece of comb will show that the division of the opposite cells

is made by a thin partition wall common to both; now the substance

of this is said to be only the one hundred and eightieth part of an

inch, whilst the artificial ones we are recommending are between the

thirtieth and fortieth part of an inch, more than four times the

thickness of the handy-work of the bees themselves. It would, indeed,

be vain to attempt to furnish sheets of wax at all approaching their

own delicate fabric; the impressed sheets are quite as thin as they

can be to bear the handling which is requisite for fixing them in the

hives. We find, however, that the thickness is no disadvantage; the

bees speedily excavate and _pare the artificial sheet_ so as to suit

their _own_ notions of the substance required; then, with admirable

economy, they use the surplus thus obtained for the construction of

the cells. After a sheet has been partly worked at by the bees, it

is interesting to hold it up to the light and observe the beautiful

transparency of that part of it contrasted with the opaqueness of the

part not yet laboured upon.

When it is considered, as writers tell us, that more than fourteen

pounds of honey are required for the secretion and elaboration of a

single pound of comb, it will not be difficult to form a just estimate

of the value of this invention, which thus furnishes cheap and

excellent assistance to our industrious favorites. It also shows the

bee-keeper that all clean empty combs should be carefully preserved,

and considered as valuable stock. Another great advantage that it

affords us is, that it renders us independent of _guide comb_, which

is not always obtainable. When a sheet or a strip of this impressed

wax is properly fixed to the comb bar, it is _certain_ to be the guide

and foundation of a straight comb. This invention has been derived

from Germany, where it has been adopted many years with success. At

the International Exhibition of 1862, we purchased the metal plates or

castings, so as to manufacture the impressed sheets with which we are

now able to supply our customers; and, after the careful trials we have

made, we have great confidence in recommending them.

In the season of 1863 we furnished a Woodbury glass super with the wax

sheets fixed to the bars, in the manner hereafter to be explained, and

it was truly astonishing to see the rapidity with which these sheets of

wax were worked into comb. Receptacles were quickly made ready for the

storing of honey, and the new combs soon became beautifully white; for

although the artificial wax has a yellow tinge, yet after being worked

at and made thinner, it is as good in colour as ordinary combs. For

supers we cut the wax plates in half, making one serve for two bars.

We have received from Germany the following directions for the

fastening of the artificial plates to the comb bars. Hereafter will

be described a plan which we have adopted, and to which preference is

given.

(Translation) "The unstamped edge of the plate receives incisions half

an inch distant from one another made with a sharp knife, the plate

having been a little warmed. Then it is pinched between two equally

strong ledges which have been well moistened; the projecting edge of

the plate which received the incisions is alternately bent to the right

and to the left. The comb bars are well besmeared with artificial

sticking wax (a mixture of two parts of wax and one part of American

resin), and is well warmed at a fire. Afterwards the besmeared side

is laid upon the bent end of the plate, and pressed to it as firmly

as possible. A small wooden ledge, besmeared with sticking wax and

fastened by means of pressure to the lower edge of the plate, prevents

it from bending, which sometimes happens when the bees work it."

To carry out the directions here given, it is necessary to warm the

besmeared comb-bar at a fire; the wax plate has also to be warmed.

Having tried this plan, and found inconvenience attending it,

especially from the wax curling with the heat and the difficulty of

making it stick firm,--to say nothing of the uncomfortableness of

performing the operation before a fire on a hot day in July,--we began

to consider if a little carpentering might not do the work better and

more pleasantly, and adopted the following plan:--We split or cut

the comb bars of the Woodbury super in half lengthways, and taking

the unstamped edge between the two strips, join them together again

by small screws at the side, confining the wax plate tightly in the

centre, with no possibility of its falling down. Where frames are used,

of course, the bar could not be cut in two (except with the "compound

bar and frame," where the bar being loose, it might be as easily

managed). The plan we adopt with an ordinary frame is to saw out an

opening about an inch, or an inch and a half from either end where the

sides are morticed in; this opening we make with a keyhole saw. Through

it the wax plate is easily put, and with a heated iron passed over the

upper side of the bar, is made sufficiently firm. If the wax plates

are too large, a portion may easily be cut off; an opening of full 11

inches long can be made without materially weakening the bar and frame.

The wax plates must not extend to the bottom of the frame; a space of

at least one inch should be left for expansion, because the bees in

working the plate stretch it down lower. We also use a few pins firmly

pressed into the frames, and long enough to reach the edge of the

plate, for by fixing three or four pins on either side, both at the

sides and at the bottom, the plate may be held in an exactly central

position within the frame. As before mentioned, when these directions

are carried out, there is no fear of being troubled with crooked combs

on bars.

The secretion of wax, and the method of its adaptation by the bees, is

thus admirably described by Evans:--

Thus filtered through yon flatterer's folded mail

Clings the cooled wax, and hardens to a scale.

Swift at the well-known call, the ready train

(For not a buzz boon Nature breathes in vain,)

Spring to each falling flake, and bear along

Their glossy burdens to the builder throng.

These, with sharp sickle, or with sharper tooth,

Pare each excrescence, and each angle smooth,

Till now, in finish'd pride, two radiant rows

Of snow-white cells one mutual base disclose;

Six shining panels gird each polish'd round,

The door's fine rim, with waxen fillet bound,

_While walls so thin, with sister walls combined,

Weak in themselves, a sure dependance find._

* * * * *

Others in firm phalanx ply their twinkling feet,

Stretch out the ductile mass, and form the street,

With many a cross-way, path, and postern gate,

That shorten to their range the spreading state.

IV. MANIPULATION AND USES OF BAR AND FRAME HIVES.

Having at page 36, given a description of the mechanical arrangements

of bar and frame hives, the next thing is to describe the mode of

introducing the bees, and of thus bringing the humane and scientific

hives into operation. The swarm should be first hived into a common

straw hive from the bough or shrub upon which they may have alighted;

place this hive,--into which we will suppose the bees have been

shaken,--on the ground, propped up on one side with a brick or a flower

pot, or anything of the sort that may be handy, in order that straggler

bees may join the swarm. The spot selected for this should be as shady

an one as can be found, near to the place where the swarm settled; or

it may be shaded from the rays of the sun by fixing matting on two

poles so as to prevent the heat falling on the hive; spread a sheet or

cloth on the ground where an even surface can be obtained; stake this

sheet down at the four corners, to prevent ruts and inequalities, which

are great hindrances to the bees going into the bar and frame hive;

place the latter upon the sheet without its floorboard, having its

front raised on blocks or sticks rather more than an inch,--not more,

otherwise the bees will cluster and attach themselves to the lower part

of the frames instead of going up between. These preparations will

perhaps occupy ten minutes, by which time the swarm will have become

settled and tolerably quiet. Then with a sharp rap precipitate the

bees out of the straw hive on to the sheet immediately in front of the

frame hive; give the straw hive another knock so as to dislodge all the

bees, and then take it quite away, otherwise they may, if it be left

near, perversely choose to go into that instead of the one desired.

In some cases, as when the swarm has to be brought from a distance,

and procured from a cottager about whose skill in carrying out these

directions there may be misgivings, it is best to give instructions

that the swarm be brought home after sunset, and then the foregoing

directions for inducing the bees to tenant the frame-hive may be better

carried out; for ourselves, we much prefer the evening for the purpose.

A little water sprinkled over them from a watering pot is likely to

induce the bees to quit the ground and go up into the hive more quickly.

Mr. Langstroth, in his admirable book "The Hive and Honey Bee," writes

"If they are too dilatory in entering the new hive, they may be gently

separated with a spoon or leafy twig, where they gather in bunches on

the sheets or they may be carefully 'spooned up' and shaken out close

to the front of the hive. As these go in with fanning wings, they will

raise a peculiar note, which communicates to their companions that they

have found a home, and in a short time the whole swarm will enter,

without injury to a single bee." In the _Journal of Horticulture_, Mr.

Woodbury says "If combs be fixed in the frames, the crown board may be

removed, and the cluster knocked out of the straw hive on to the top

of the exposed frames. The bees will disappear between them with the

utmost alacrity, delighted to have met with a ready furnished dwelling,

and the top or crown board having been replaced, the hive should at

once be removed to the position it is intended permanently to occupy."

No one should attempt these operations without being protected by a

_bee dress_, and a pair of India-rubber gloves,--such as those used

by photographers,--which are sting proof. Some persons also take the

precaution of tying strings round the ankles of the trowsers, lest

some straggler should determine to attack the outposts of the enemy,

which, to say the least, might perplex the operator in the midst of his

task. Elastic India-rubber bands are good for this purpose, or a pair

of "knickerbockers" would be useful. If Wellington boots are worn, the

trowsers may be tucked within the leather, in which case no bee can

molest the operator, and no string or band will be needed. Practice

makes perfect in bee tending as in other matters, and when a light hand

is gained, there is little danger of the apiarian being stung.

If the weather be wet the next day or so after hiving, it will be well

to give a little assistance to the new colony in the shape of food,

for although when a swarm leaves a hive almost every bee composing it

fills itself with honey, we have known not a few instances in case

of very wet weather, in which the whole swarm has been starved for

the want of this little timely help. Of course, the first work of the

bees is to build themselves combs, and these combs being produced by

the secretion of wax from honey, a great drain upon their resources

immediately begins, and any little outlay at this juncture is

abundantly compensated by its enabling these industrious emigrants the

more quickly to push, forward the furnishing of their new home. Clean

combs from hives that may have lost their bees are readily accepted,

and cause a great saving in time and material to the bees; these combs

may easily be fixed by cutting them the proper size to fit within the

frames, and making them firm by tying with tape or fixing them with

pliable wire. Artificial comb (see page 70) is often used, and has

this advantage, that the combs are certain to be straight and regular,

besides the saving in material to the bees.

These preparations must be made prior to the bees being hived, so

that when a hive is so prepared, a swarm may begin to adapt whatever

advantages they find ready for them; and it is truly marvellous what a

swarm will do when thus furnished with combs in their new habitation.

In these the queen can immediately begin to deposit her eggs, and

the workers to store their honey, without having to wait for the

construction of combs, which is a laborious occupation for the bees.

In some cases, fine white combs may be taken from the stock hive; the

end frames are always the most free from brood. Care must be exercised

not to rob this part of the hive too much; one comb may perhaps be

removed in the course of the season without impoverishing the bees, but

it is not wise to take more.

Putting on Super Hive.--A colony established a year or more

is called a "stock," by way of distinction from a swarm of the present

year. Supposing the hive to be a stock, the super should be given them

at the early part of the season, say, if fine and warm, at the latter

end of April or beginning of May; if the weather be then unfavourable,

it is better to delay doing so until a more genial temperature. If the

colony be a swarm of the present year, two weeks should be allowed to

elapse from the time of tenanting a hive, before putting on the super;

this delay is necessary to give the bees the opportunity of building

combs in their new domicile, and of getting a store of honey for

themselves before working for their master.

When it is wished to use a super, the crown board or roof of the stock

hive must be taken away, the thin adapting or honey board taking its

place; the two long slits at the sides are to give admission to the

super. The bees will begin sooner and work faster if the eight bars are

each furnished with artificial comb (as described page 71). We have had

depriving hives very quickly filled when the bees were thus assisted.

Combs that have been left unfilled may be fixed to the bars as before

described; these must be white and clean, as dark comb should not be

used for super hives. The combs when filled may be taken out singly, if

desired for consumption, substituting an empty bar or comb; or should

the bee-keeper desire to see a handsome super, he must wait until the

bees have filled and sealed up all the combs, and then he may proceed

to deprive them of it as before described.

Taking out Frames with Combs.--It is well for a beginner to

practice the directions for opening and shutting up hives by using an

empty hive, until he becomes familiar with the handling of the frames.

The first thing to do is to loosen the crown board or lid with a knife,

drawing a piece of string underneath it to divide the wax or cement

with which the bees make all secure. This string should be drawn

through very slowly, so as not to irritate the bees. In hot weather,

the crown board may be loosened by a lateral movement; but sometimes,

for want of care, this loosening of the lid disturbs the bees, and as

soon as it is removed, a number of them, enraged thereby, pour out and

attack the operator. This and all other operations ought be done very

carefully and gently; especial care should be taken not to prise the

lid upwards, by way of wrenching it off, for the frames and combs are

generally secured thereto, and there is a liability of rending the

combs with it; this will greatly irritate the bees, and be otherwise

injurious. When a hive of bees is enraged, there is little chance of

pacifying them; it is best, under such circumstances to 'give in' at

once, and not attempt to perform any operation, but to shut the hive up

and beat a retreat, benefiting by the experience so as to do better in

a day or so afterwards. There are various devices for intimidating or

conciliating the bees, and one of these already spoken of is--smoke.

So next time the experimenter makes his attempt let bill! raise the

lid an inch or so, and blow a few puffs of smoke into the hive, which

will cause the bees to retreat. This is best done by using our No.

12 fumigator, with a little of the prepared fungus lighted. Pipes or

cigars are not convenient to use for this purpose when the head is

enveloped in the dress. As soon as the lid is removed, a few bees

will fly out to learn the cause of such an interference. Conciliation

should then be introduced by having at hand a little sweetened water,

which may be sprinkled, or rather let drop from a feather or brush. The

sudden motion of the hand required in the act of sprinkling irritates

the bees, so that instead of making them our friends, they may become

our foes. Mr. Langstroth recommends that a fine watering pot filled

with sweetened water, be used for the purpose. Care must be taken not

to drench the bees; only just sufficient should be given to run down

the sides of the combs as well as sprinkling the top. As soon as the

bees really understand that syrup is being given them, they feast upon

it instead of angrily attacking the operator. Thus pacified, and with

gentle treatment, but little difficulty will be found in proceeding

with the work required. But the unskilled operator should on no account

neglect to put on a bee-dress and gloves as described above. We would

err on the side of caution, although there is an old saying that "a cat

in gloves catches no mice," and the apiarian will find that his fingers

are not so free to work as he would like, for gloves make them rather

clumsy in drawing up the frames.

The frames must now be gently prised from front to rear; this may be

done with a small screw-driver or other stout instrument with a wedged

end to go into the notches. The frames fit loosely so as to allow of

a little movement from back to front; a lateral or side-way movement

might kill the queen; or if not so fatal as that, might crush some of

the bees and injure the brood combs, and must be carefully avoided. It,

of course, depends upon what the operation is that has to be performed

whether or no all the frames should be thus loosened. If it be for

making artificial swarms, or for any purpose requiring an interview

with her majesty, the whole of them must be loosened, because it often

happens that all the combs have to be examined, sometimes twice over,

before she can be discovered. Bees are very apt to build their combs

in a slightly waving form, and in extracting one it will be needful to

make room both for the comb and bees upon it to pass without scraping

the next comb, and there will be a difficulty if the apiarian attempts

to draw out one comb whilst the other frames are located in their

appropriate notches. Let the operator gently proceed to lift say the

third frame (allowing it to lodge on the little block that divides the

notches) a little nearer to the fourth frame, and the second nearer the

third, so as to admit of sufficient space to lift out the end one. Very

carefully and slowly he should lift the frame by taking hold with thumb

and finger of the projecting shoulders that rest in the notch; and he

must not let it touch or scrape the next frame or the sides of the hive

so as to crush or irritate any bees.

After the end comb is thus removed, it will be easy to extract the

others, as there will now be plenty of room for drawing them out. A

hive of exactly the same size should be at hand; and in case it be

desired to remove the combs and bees into another hive, care should be

taken that each comb occupies the same relative position that it did in

the old hive.

In handling the frames, bear in mind that they are to be held

perpendicularly. To gain a view of both sides of the comb when

searching for the queen, or for any purpose requiring full inspection,

with a little dexterity in twirling the frame round, the reverse side

may be brought to face the operator, without letting the comb break

away by its own weight and so fall out of the frame, which it will do

if allowed to deviate from its upright or downright position. If the

operator could see an experienced person perform the operation, he

would quickly understand how combs may thus be handled without any risk

of a smash.

When placing frames in the hive, care must be taken not to crush a

bee between the projecting shoulders of the frame and the rabbets or

notches on which they rest, and on no account must the frame be let

down with a jerk, or the bees will become exceedingly fierce: the frame

should be so slowly deposited in its place that a bee on feeling the

slightest pressure may have the opportunity of escaping unhurt thereby.

The crown board should be replaced by first resting its front edge in

its place, and then slowly lowering the after part, looking carefully

under, and momentarily raising it when necessary to avoid crushing a

bee. Should the hive have its super on, the same directions may be

followed. The super with its honey board may be bodily taken away, and

so placed and confined for a time that robber bees cannot find an

entrance, and also be far enough from the apiarian to be out of danger

of being broken or overturned by him.

Advantages of Bar and Frame Hives.--It will be asked why

all this trouble about bar and frames with straight combs built upon

them? We have shown the full command which the bee-keeper has over a

hive so constituted, and we now proceed to show how in skilful hands

these advantages may be used successfully; though, in the hands of the

unpractised and unskilful the contrary may be the result.

All the bars and frames in an apiary ought to be of precisely the

same dimensions, so as to fit every hive. This is essential for the

strengthening of weak hives. A hive that is weakly may often be

advantageously strengthened by having put into it a comb of brood from

a populous stock, to which an empty frame from the weak one may be

given; no bees must be on the brood-comb--these should be shaken off

or gently dislodged with a feather into the hive from which the comb

is taken. The frames of the hive from which the comb has been taken,

should be, one by one, placed so as to fill in the vacancy, leaving

the empty frame nearest the side. When a hive has been in use many

years, the combs become very black, and every bee that is bred in a

cell leaves a film behind. It may be understood how in this way the

cells become contracted, so that the bees that are bred in them are

correspondingly reduced in size. After the lapse of say five years, it

may be necessary to begin to remove the old combs. This may be done by

cutting away the comb or by substituting an empty frame for one with

old black comb, gradually moving the frames towards each other. By

taking two away in this manner in the spring or summer of every season,

the combs in course of five years may all be reconstructed and fresh

clean ones be secured for breeding in, instead of the old black ones

that otherwise would remain as long as the stock could live in the hive.

Artificial Swarming.--Every bee-keeper knows the anxiety there

is in watching and expecting a swarm to come forth, fearful lest his

favorites should, "like riches, take wing and fly away," a mischance

that it is desirable to prevent. In our description of natural

swarming this will be found fully treated of; we propose here merely

to point out how, with the moveable frames, this work of nature may

be assisted--we say assisted, because artificial swarming should, as

nearly as possible, resemble natural swarming, that is, it should be

performed at the same time of the year, and when the populous state of

the hive makes a division desirable. This is easily known to be the

case when bees hang out in clusters at the entrance, wasting their time

in enforced idleness instead of being abroad gathering honey. It is

also necessary that the hive contain drones.

An empty hive should be placed on the stand when the living hive is

removed, for the purpose of amusing returning bees. If the hive is

kept in a bee-house, the entrance should be shut down unto the hive is

restored, when the clustered bees may be at once admitted.

When such is the state of the hive, the facility of forming an

artificial swarm with a moveable frame hive is a decided advantage.

The best time for performing the operation is about ten o'clock in

the morning of a fine summer's day. The following directions should

be carried out:--place ready a counter or bench that is firm and

strong, and which has space on it for the inhabited--or rather the

over-inhabited--frame hive and the empty one, which is about to be made

the receptacle of a separate stock. The operator having on bee-dress

and the other appliances ready, may now open the hive as before

described, and proceed to take out the frames, carefully examining

both sides of each comb to find the queen: she is generally in the

centre of the hive, so that it is not always needful to take out all

the ten frames. As they are examined, the frames may be put into the

empty hive, and when the object of the bee-master's search is found,

he must carefully remove the frame containing her majesty, and may

place it temporarily in the empty hive at one end by itself. Next he

must proceed to put the frames back into the old hive, closing up

the vacancy caused by the removal of the comb with the queen on it,

and leave the empty frame at the end. Then he may place the frame

containing the queen--with the few bees that may be upon it--in the

centre of the empty hive; then putting all the other frames in, and

replacing the lid, the bee-master will place this hive in the exact

position occupied by the old stock. The bees that are on the wing will

go to the old spot, and finding the queen there, they will rally round

her and very soon form a sufficient number to constitute a swarm; comb

building will at once begin, the frames will in a week or so be filled,

and a satisfactory stock will thus be established. By doing this at

the right time, just before the bees are about to swarm, or when there

are many drones, all the trouble of watching and waiting for them is

saved. Mr. Woodbury claims the honour of having originated this mode

of artificial swarming; subsequently Mr. Langstroth and others have

described a similar process, no doubt originally, as far as they knew,

therefore still more useful to us as a confirmation of the value of Mr.

Woodbury's discovery.

This operation we performed, exactly as described above, with one of

our improved cottage hives one afternoon at the latter end of May,

1862. Whilst inspecting our bees, we caught sight of the queen on the

comb in one of the bell glasses. This was a chance not to be missed,

and we immediately resolved to form an artificial swarm, for the hive

was very full of bees. Besides, being obliged to be away from the

apiary most of the week, we were glad of the opportunity of so easily

establishing a colony without the uncertainty and trouble of hiving a

natural swarm. In the first place we slid a tin under the bell glass,

and removing the stock hive from underneath we took it a few feet away;

then we placed an empty improved cottage hive where the old stock had

stood, and put the glass of comb containing the queen and a few bees

over one of the holes in the crown of this new empty hive. The bees

that were left abroad, belonging to the old stock returned as usual to

their old entrance as they supposed; soon a sufficient number formed a

large cluster in the hive and began comb building, the queen remaining

in the glass until the cells below were sufficiently numerous for her

to deposit her eggs in them. The division answered exceedingly well,

both hives prospered; the old hive either had some princesses coming

forward to supply the loss of the queen, or the bees used a power that

they possess of raising a queen from worker brood in the manner we have

previously described.[5]

[Footnote 5: See Section 1, page 5.]

The foregoing account illustrates the successful formation of an

artificial swarm; but with a cottage hive it was quite a matter of

accident to have been able to get possession of the queen. With a

moveable frame hive she can at any suitable time be found.

Precisely the same plan is to be adopted with the old stock in the

frame hive as we have described in the case of the cottage hive, that

is to remove it some few paces off: when the hives are in a bee-house,

a similar result may be attained by placing the new swarm for a day or

two to the entrance used by the bees when with the old stock, and the

old stock may be removed to an approximate entrance. Some apiarians

recommend that a space be left between the two hives, by placing the

hives on the right and left of the old entrance, in order that too

large a proportion of bees should not enter the new hive at the old

position to the impoverishment of the other. But we have found the mode

adopted with the cottage hive answer so well, that we see no reason for

recommending any different plan.

It is the office of the bee-master to assist, not to go in the least

degree contrary to nature. We know that when a natural swarm issues

forth it has its impregnated queen, and when located in a new abode

commences building worker combs, and leaves the building of the few

drone combs to a later period; but if a division of the hive should be

made by putting half the combs in one hive and half in another, the

hive containing the queenless or embryo queen will busy itself with

building only drone comb, thus a number of receptacles for useless bees

is provided, which tends to weakness, and eventually to loss of the

hive.

In the plan we have recommended for forming two separate families, we

nearly follow the natural state of things; the comb that the queen is

upon is the only one that is taken from the hive, and this vacancy

should be filled in by moving the frames together so as to leave

the empty frame at the end. The bees, under the government of the

impregnated queen, construct the combs and furnish their new abode,

which, as before stated, they will do with worker cells.

By adopting the plan above described, the moveable bar and frame hive

will prove far superior to any of the dividing hives, which provide for

equal division of the combs.

Perhaps the greatest advantage the moveable frame hive possesses is,

that a full knowledge can be attained of its exact state as regards the

queen, the population and the quantity of food in stock. During weather

of a genial temperature, the combs may on any fine day be inspected,

and thus a knowledge being gained of the deficiency existing in a hive,

the necessary means may be adopted for supplying the want. Sometimes

such an examination will verify the fears of the bee-keeper, when,

having observed that his bees have ceased to carry in pollen, he has

thereby received warning that the queen has been lost at some juncture

when no successor to the throne could be provided. Such a hive has

entered on a downward course, and will dwindle away entirely unless a

queen should be given to it, or else, some combs containing young brood

not more than three days old. By the latter method the bee-keeper

will gain an opportunity of seeing the bees set about their wonderful

process of raising a queen from the brood thus provided for them.

When a bee-keeper has become skilful in his calling, he may be desirous

to encourage the breeding of queens, or rather of preventing their

destruction. He will seek to use the propagating instincts of the

worker bees as a set off against that innate hatred of rivalry which

prompts the reigning queen to kill the tender royal brood.

Hives found to be queenless may be supplied either with matured queens

or with queen cells. If the latter are sufficiently numerous, their

introduction may easily be effected by exchanging a comb in each hive;

if they have to be cut out and placed loosely in the new hive, a

triangular piece of comb should then be removed with them, to be used

as a block in preventing any pressure coming on them. A space must be

cut out of the middle in the centre combs of the hive into which they

are to be introduced. Special care must be taken not to bruise the

royal embryos, as they are particularly sensitive to pressure.

A very great advantage that the Woodbury bar and frame-hive possesses,

is the safety and convenience with which a stock of bees can in it

be transported to any part of the kingdom; and, by a few additional

arrangements, stocks have been sent in it to distant countries. In many

districts hives are removed to moors and heaths in autumn, for the

purpose of gathering heather honey. In this operation the frames are

a great support to the combs, very much lessening the risk of a break

down and consequent loss.

From a hive that has been inhabited all the winter, we have not

unfrequently lifted out the frames and removed the stock to a clean

hive, and we believe that the change has always been useful. The bees

find a clean floorboard and a clean hive to breed in, free from insects

that may have harboured in crevices about the hive. When the change

has been made, the old hive can be thoroughly cleaned, and used in the

same way for making the exchange with another stock. The process for

handling will, of course, be the same as before described. We have

found that where this plan has been carried out, that the bees seem to

progress faster. Perhaps a little stirring up may be useful in arousing

them from the winter doze; the time we recommend for doing this is the

beginning of April, but a fine warm day should be chosen.

DRIVING.

Driving is an operation by which bees are induced to vacate an old

settled hive and to enter an empty one. Many apiarians prefer this mode

of effecting an exchange of hives to the plan of fumigating the bees.

The greatest success attending such a transfer will be in the case of

hives well filled with combs that are worked nearly to the floorboard;

and it may be remarked that bees are generally so far provident, that

they leave an open space in which to pass underneath their combs over

all the floor of the hive. When the old hive is inverted, the bees

crawl up the combs, and thus more easily pass up into the new hive,

which the operator places over the old one with the intent that they

should enter it.

The best time for performing this operation is about the middle of

the day, and when the weather is warm. It is essential that the

operator be protected with a bee-dress and gloves, as before described;

and previous to commencing his task, he must provide all necessary

implements. These are:--a couple of hives, one of which should

correspond in shape and size with the hive from which the bees are to

be driven; a cloth to tie round at the junction when the new hive is

placed on the old one; some string to keep the cloth in its place;

an empty pail to receive the top of the old hive, if one of the old

conical shape, but if the stock of bees is in a square box hive with a

flat top, a firm stool will be the best; and a No. 12 fumigator with

some fungus, which will complete the material of war. The bucket or

stool must be placed securely on the ground about a yard from the place

where the full hive stands; then a few puff's of smoke being blown in

amongst the bees, will cause them to retreat up amongst the combs. The

bee-master will now turn the hive[6] upside down very gently, letting

it rest in the pail or on the stool; he then quickly places the empty

hive over the full one, and ties the cloth round it to prevent any

escape of the bees. If the cloth be damped, it will cling the closer

to the hives. The third hive is intended to be placed on the stand

formerly occupied by the stock, so as to retain the few returning

bees which had been absent in the fields. Care must be taken that all

crevices through which it is possible for the bees to escape from the

united hives should be effectually closed. When the two are fairly

united, the operator will proceed by rapping the full hive gently with

the hands or a couple of sticks, more particularly on that side where

the combs are the most thickly placed--that is, if the hive be not

equally filled.

[Footnote 6: Care should be exercised in turning the hives over to keep

the combs vertical, or they are likely to break from their foundations.]

It generally happens that in about fifteen minutes the bees regularly

commence the ascent; their exodus will be known by the distinct rushing

sound which is always noticed when a colony of bees is on the move.

The first thing bees do when disturbed is to till their honey bags, as

they invariably do at swarming time, consequently after the first rush

into the new hive is over, as in the case of a swarm, the "flitting"

bees are not much disposed to take wing. When the noise made by the

ascending bees has been heard, and has in good degree subsided, the

cloth may be removed, and the old hive, now deserted, may be taken

indoors, and if a few bees yet remain, they may be brushed off with a

feather. An experienced apiarian on first hearing the rushing noise

before mentioned, will not hesitate to tilt the top hive over a little

on one side, so that he may watch the bees during the ascent; the queen

may be seen passing up, and if the operator desires to take her away,

he can secure her by placing a wine glass over her. This expedient is

often resorted to in the autumn when stocks are to be united, for in

such a case the removal of the queen prevents some fighting.

If the taking of the honey be the object of the bee-master, then

"driving" is manifestly a better plan than to resort to the fumes of

sulphur for the purpose; for the bees from whom their store is taken,

can be joined to stocks that are weak in numbers, with considerable

advantage to the future prosperity of the apiary.

When the removed bees are to be joined to another stock, the operator

will proceed as follows:--At dusk, dislodge the bees on to a cloth,

sprinkle them with sweet syrup, and place the hive to which it is

intended to join them, over the mass; they will gradually ascend into

the hive placed for them, and early next morning the hive, with its

slender stock thus augmented, may be removed to its stand. Should the

operator not have been successful, or not sufficiently skilful to

gain possession of the queen, he may leave it to the bees themselves

to decide which queen they will have. By this plan of "driving,"

artificial swarms may be secured by an "expert" even in common hives,

though those do not afford the facilities for such a purpose as do the

bar, or bar-and-frame, hives.

CHANGING OLD STOCKS TO NEW HIVES.

We frequently find that the possessor of a stock of bees in a

cottager's common straw hive is desirous of removing the whole stock of

bees and comb into one of our improved hives, in which the honey may

be obtained without the destruction of the bees. We mostly discourage

such a transfer, attended as it is with much labour, and requiring a

considerable amount of apiarian skill. An old fashioned hive may very

readily be rendered a humane one, simply by cutting out with a sharp

pointed knife the middle of the top of the hive; a piece may thus

easily be taken out, so as to leave a round hole two or three inches

in diameter, but care must be taken that the knife does not penetrate

much below the straw, lest it reach the comb or the bees--and it will

be safer for the operator to have a bee-dress on. There should be ready

a round adapting board, with a corresponding hole, which may be secured

on the top by putting four long nails through the same number of holes

in the board; then a cap hive or a glass may be placed on the top, for

the purpose of admitting the bees, who will soon crowd therein to work.

This hive or glass will form a super or depriving hive, and can be

worked as profitably as most of the improved hives. Per the sake of an

improved appearance, an outside case, either of zinc, straw, or wood,

may be dropped over all, and then, if well painted, the whole will form

no disfigurement to any flower garden.

This is beyond doubt the easiest way of overcoming the difficulty, but

as it may not satisfy all, we now proceed to describe how a complete

transfer may be made. No hive offers such facilities for the correct

placing of the combs in a perfectly upright position as does the bar

and frame hive. As before remarked, we should be slow to recommend

any one to attempt the operation who is not already pretty well

accustomed to the handling of bees and acquainted with their habits;

but by carefully carrying out the following directions any one may

successfully perform the feat. The first thing is to get the bees away

from the combs; there are two ways of doing this, one is by fumigation

(see page 60), the other by driving (see page 84). Whichever plan may

be resorted to, have the bees confined in the old hive on their stand

until you are quite ready to admit them into the bar and frame hive.

Have in readiness all the necessary appliances: these consist of a

large knife for cutting the hive, a good sized table on which to lay

the brood combs, a basin of water--for washing off honey which may

besmear the hands,--tape or cotton string to fasten the combs in their

frames, a pair of honey cutters for cutting out the combs, jars to

hold the honey that runs out, and a feather for brushing off any bees

that may remain. It is necessary that the operator should have on his

bee-dress, and India-rubber gloves. Then begin by slicing off a piece

of the hive with a sharp table knife; carefully cut out the working

combs--cut them large, so that they will squeeze into the frames; and

to be more secure, wind some of the tape round to keep them in position

until made fast by the bees. After a few days, these fastenings may be

removed. Care should be taken that the combs occupy the same position

in the frames as in the hive from which they were extracted. Having

thus prepared the hive, the bees may be let into it. It may be as well

to keep them confined a few hours, giving them water at the top, until

they make the combs secure; the new hive will then be less likely

to offer an attraction to bees from other hives who, if feloniously

inclined, might come to rob. This transfer should be made when the

weather is such that the bees can fly about; when not warm enough,

it should be done in a room at a temperature of about 70 degrees. An

expert apiarian could perform the operation in less than three quarters

of an hour, and with little loss. A week or so after a swarm has left

the old stock is perhaps the very best time for such a removal. Should

the operation be performed in the open air, the bees from surrounding

hives will be sure to come in great numbers to obtain a share of the

honey necessarily exposed, for they delight in plunder. In order,

therefore, to avoid annoyance to the operator, and the excitement which

is certain to be induced in surrounding hives, it is better to conduct

the dissection in some building with closed doors. In some instances a

routing of this kind has a beneficial effect; old stocks of hives that

have previously appeared to be dwindling, are often aroused to activity

by their removal into a fresh domicile.

WEIGHING HIVES, &c.

One of the most effectual modes of ascertaining the condition of a hive

is by weighing it. Such knowledge is most important at the close of the

gathering season, in order that the bee-keeper may determine whether he

ought to give his bees artificial food to enable them to live through

the dreary winter. A knowledge of the numerical strength of the colony

is also useful, in enabling the bee-keeper to decide which hives will

be benefited by being joined together, which may be done on the plan

explained in the articles on "Fumigation" and "Driving."

A hive can very easily be weighed, if a Salter's Spring Balance be

suspended near the apiary. The hive, having a strap or cord passed

under and over it, and crossing at right angles on the top, may be

hooked on to the balance, so that the weight will be indicated on the

dial. The weight of the hive should be marked on it when empty, so that

the exact amount of its contents may at any time be ascertained. A

colony of bees at Michaelmas ought to weigh from 20 to 24 pounds, that

is, exclusive of the hive; if falling short of that weight, the hive

should be made up to it by the artificial means before recommended.

Experienced apiarians are able to judge of the weight of a hive by

lifting it a few inches from the stand; or by looking in at the windows

of a stock hive, a conclusive opinion may be formed as to the state of

the colony. If the combs within view be well filled and sealed, it will

be safe to consider that the hive contains sufficient stores to carry

the bees through the winter.

V. MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION.

STINGS: THEIR PREVENTION AND CURE.

Some of our readers may deem us neglectful in having, as it were, left

them to struggle through their bee-keeping novitiate without informing

them how to avoid being stung by their docile but well armed flock.

Of course, having described the bee-dress, we have supposed that

the apiarian was clad, if not "in complete steel," at least, in the

head-gear and gloves, which will render him invulnerable. The best

safeguard from the anger of bees--as indeed from the malice of men--is

a quiet and peaceable spirit. The apiarian will learn to handle his

bees not only as "if he loved them,"--as the quaint angler says--but as

if he fully believes that the bees love him. This they will do whenever

he approaches and treats them gently. There are some cases of exception

to this generally peaceable disposition of the bee; sometimes a few

bees are dyspeptic, and refuse to be pacified--let their master seek

to bribe them never so wisely. Then, too, sometimes the bee-master

himself may be dyspeptic, which the unerring olfactory sense of the

bees speedily detects, and their anger is immediately aroused. Some

few persons, owing to constitutional peculiarities in their breath or

insensible perspiration, are objects of constant animosity with bees,

who by driving them from the apiary, are giving a physician's advice

without charge for a fee. Some of the choicest perfumes used by ladies

are offensive to bees: and one may feel very certain that the "fine

puss gentleman," who disgusted the brave Hotspur with his "pouncet

box" and praise of "'parmaceti for an inward bruise," would have been

speedily driven from an apiary in ignominious flight. Occasionally,

even a skilful apiarian may inadvertently crush a single bee; such a

mischance is detected by the community with much more facility than by

any "crowner's quest," and their prompt verdict decrees the summary

punishment of the offender. There would be much less fear of stings if

it were always remembered that bees are never aggressive. "Defence, not

defiance," is their motto. They scarcely ever attempt to sting when

away from the hive, and very seldom indeed at the time of swarming,

for then they are gorged with honey. When molested by angry bees, the

safest and best retreat is a green bush. Thrust your head into this,

and the bees will soon leave you.

Yet some people appear to think they must inevitably be stung if they

meddle with bees; and for their sakes it is needful to explain why

it is that a sting is painful, and how the wound inflicted by the

bee may be cured. Those familiar with the usual microscopic objects

will know how marvellously delicate, and yet effective, is the

mechanical structure of a bee's sting. This weapon as we see it with

our naked eye--finer than a needle's point--is only the sheath, which

lengthens or contracts like the tubes of a telescope. From the sheath

is projected the dart, which is double, each half of it piercing

alternately deeper into the wound made by the sheath. The dart is

barbed on each side, so that the bee when very angry is scarcely ever

able to withdraw it:--

"Deems life itself to vengeance well resigned;

Dies on the wound, and leaves the sting behind."

If the patient who receives the sting could only take it patiently, it

would not prove half the inconvenience to him that often is the case.

There are indeed some happy mortals whose "blood such an even tenour

keeps," that a bee-sting is to them simply a puncture, and nothing

more. Dr. Bevan has suggested that lovers should subject themselves to

the ordeal of a bee-sting, in order to prove, we suppose, that their

temper is proof against "the _stings_ and arrows of any outrageous

fortune" that matrimony can bring.

It is the homœpathically minute tincture of poison injected by the

bee which causes inflammation. The first thing to do is to remove

the sting, which, even when detached from the bee, will continue to

penetrate still further into the wound. Next, press the hollow point

of a watch-key exactly over the place stung; this will express a

considerable portion of the virus. Then dip the hand or bathe the part

with cold or tepid water, for the poison is volatile, and will thereby

be dissipated to a great extent. On no account whatever should the part

affected be rubbed; to do that will diffuse the poison, and increase

the inflammation. The specific remedy for a bee-sting is taught us

by chemistry: the venom is an acid, which an alkali will immediately

neutralize when brought into contact with it. Spirits of hartshorn

will generally be found effectual for the purpose, and should always

be kept in an apiary. There are also several other remedies, more or

less effectual, according to the special constitution of the patient. A

strong infusion of tobacco water applied to the wound after the sting

has been extracted, is a specific for many persons; others find relief

from the application of a sliced onion.

We have heard the remark from several who have kept bees for years,

that the poison from a sting has little or no effect on them; after

receiving many inflictions, their flesh appears to become so little

affected that the swelling and pain at one time experienced no longer

trouble them.

POLLEN; OR, FOOD FOR INFANT BEES.

Bees, when fully grown, feed almost wholly on honey; but the larvæ

require for their development a more substantial kind of nourishment.

Such solid fare is found by the bees in the pollen of flowers, a farina

which contains some of those nitrogenous elements in which honey is

deficient. The body of a worker-bee is covered with hairs, to which the

pollen adheres when, by contact with the bee, it is rubbed from the

anthers and stamens of flowers. The bee with its fore legs then brushes

it off, and moulds it into the pellet shape suitable for carrying it in

the "baskets" or grooves on its thighs. Dewy mornings or humid bowers

suit the bees for the gathering of the pollen. If the atmosphere be too

dry for kneading it into pellets, they roll themselves in the blossoms,

and trust to the good offices of the bees at home, who, on their

return, brush off the farina into the cells intended for it, A portion

of this "bee bread" is taken at once by the "nursing bees," which are

supposed to subject it to some change before offering it to the larvæ;

but the greater part of the pollen is stored away, and sealed over in

the cells for future use. In April and May the bees are frequently busy

"all the day" in gathering pollen, and often one community of bees will

collect about twenty pounds weight of "bee bread" in one season.

One of the objects of the apiarian is to assist the bees in

providing for the nurselings of the hive. A German pastor, Heer

Dzierzon, first suggested the plan of providing the bees with

"unbolted rye meal" as a substitute for the farina of flowers. He

had observed that, in early spring before the flowers were open, his

bees had entered a neighbouring corn mill, from whence they returned

laden with rye flour. Since his discovery, most bee-keepers in early

spring place either rye or wheat meal near the apiaries; to this

artificial store the bees repair by thousands, and seem to rollick in

the enjoyment of so much plenty, many of them returning to the hive as

dusty as millers. The object in thus supplying them is, that the brood

may be rapidly brought forward and early swarming induced. In this

way, a few pounds of rye meal at one penny per pound may tend to the

production of very many pounds of honey of twelve times the price.

In gathering pollen from flowers, bees are doing more than merely

providing for their own community. Whilst humming through our gardens

they are assisting to propagate our flowers, and their merry buzz in

our orchards indicates that the blossoms of spring will in autumn

fulfil their promise by abundance of fruit. In Mr. Darwin's remarkable

work, "The Fertilization of Orchids," the mystery of the fructification

of flowers is scientifically explained; but before the subject was

so fully understood, it was quite believed that bees in passing from

flower to flower performed some important service. Owners of fruit

trees have noticed, in a season generally unfavourable for the orchard,

that if during only one fine forenoon the bees had spread freely

amongst the blossoms of a particular tree, that it would prove more

fruitful than its fellows. On this account the orchard is a good place

for an apiary, for it seems--more abundant the honey, more plentiful

will be the fruit. Bees bear the fructifying matter from one sex of

flowers to the other, but they confine their attention to one kind of

flower during each excursion: and the careful observer may see how the

colour of the pollen on the bodies of the bees will vary from yellow to

red and brown, according to the kind of flowers from which it has been

gathered. The gathering of pollen, its use by the nursing bees, and the

storing of it in the cells, afford to the bee-keeper opportunity for

observations of exceeding interest.

PROPOLIS; OR, BEES' CEMENT.

The old notion that wax is gathered by bees from flowers as they gather

honey, has long since been set aside by the discoveries of Hornbostel

and Huber. Wax is an oily substance secreted from the honey in the

bodies of the bees, on which it forms in thin flakes. But there is "a

resinous substance, very tenacious and semi-transparent," which is

indispensable for the bees as a cement wherewith to fix their combs

and fortify their hives against intruders, and this is "propolis."

The bees, in working the propolis, often soften it by blending it

with a portion of wax; but they have to extract it in its natural

state directly from the bark and buds of certain trees. The bark of

the willow, the leaf buds of the poplar and alder, and the unopened

blossoms of the hollyhock, are very usual sources of propolis. In the

case of a new swarm, as bees must have this glue before they can

begin to build their combs, they will resort to most unlikely places

to obtain it. Sometimes they will enter a paint shop and attack the

varnish, and it is said they have been seen to obtain propolis from the

pitch and rigging of a ship. These circumstances afford intelligible

hints to the apiarian, who, if his bees have not easy access to firs,

poplars, or willows, will provide some glutinous or resinous matter

which may serve for a substitute. The extracting of the propolis costs

the bees very considerable labour, which they should be relieved of

as much as possible, in order to facilitate their great work of honey

gathering. Bees choose the warmer part of the day during which to

gather propolis, as then it does not so rapidly stiffen. Frequently

when they arrive at the hive it has become so hard that the other bees

are scarcely able to gnaw it from their thighs.

With propolis bees fasten down their hives, stop up crevices to exclude

moths and ants, and sometimes use it to narrow the entrance of their

hive against the invasion of wasps. Extraordinary anecdotes are told

of the prompt and ingenious use they make of this substance. Reaumur

relates that a snail having been observed by the bees on the window

of the hive, they proceeded to glue the shell to the glass, and there

sealed down the intruder in hopeless durance. In another case, that of

a slug, or snail without a shell, the bees having slain it with their

stings, were quite unable to remove it from the hive. With wonderful

foresight, they then proceeded to secure their community from the

noxious effects likely to arise from the decay of the carcase; and

this they did by completely enveloping it with a coating of impervious

varnish. Huish relates a similar occurrence in the case of a mouse

caught in a hive by bees. Propolis yields benzoic acid, and contains

some aromatic properties.

PASTURAGE FOR BEES.