Transcribed from the 1849 T. Crowe edition by David Price, email
ccx074@pglaf.org
[Picture: Lowestoft Marine Esplanade, Lucas & Son Builders]
THE
NEW HAND-BOOK
TO
LOWESTOFT
And its Environs;
COMPILED FROM
GILLINGWATER’S HISTORY, SUCKLING’S ANTIQUITIES
OF SUFFOLK, AND OTHER SOURCES.
* * * * *
ILLUSTRATED WITH STEEL ENGRAVINGS.
* * * * *
LOWESTOFT:
PRINTED BY T. CROWE, HIGH STREET.
MAY BE HAD ALSO OF WHITTAKER AND CO., LONDON; JARROLD
OR FLETCHER, NORWICH; BARBER, SLOMAN, OR ALEXANDER, YARMOUTH;
LOYNS, BECCLES; BURTON, IPSWICH; OR ANY BOOKSELLER.
* * * * *
MDCCCXLIX.
* * * * *
THOMAS CROWE,
PRINTER,
HIGH STREET, LOWESTOFT.
PREFACE.
LOWESTOFT is not only considered a very healthy and pleasant watering
place, but, from various causes, is assuming a position of such
importance, as to render it more than probable that visiters will arrive
in numbers augmented every season: this work is intended primarily for
their use; at the same time, it is hoped it will he found interesting to
the residents generally, being a verbal and pictorial description of the
place of their abode, and a repository of facts and incidents connected
with its history. The writer wishes it to be distinctly understood that
the book professes to be, for the most part, a compilation; he has not
therefore thought it necessary—except in a few special cases—to give
authorities, or the usual indications of quotation.
_Lowestoft_, _March_, 1849.
HAND-BOOK TO LOWESTOFT.
SITUATION OF THE TOWN AND ITS GENERAL FEATURES.
Lowestoft is situated upon the most Easterly point of land in England.
It stands upon a lofty eminence, and commands an extensive prospect of
the German Ocean.
Enthroned upon an ancient hill it rests;
Calmly it lifts its time-worn head; and first
Of all Old England’s busy towns, whispers
Its orisons, and greets the rising morn.
It stands upon a dry soil, upon the summit of a cliff, and enjoys a most
salubrious air—keen, but bracing; and not being exposed to any of those
unwholesome damps and vapours, which generally arise from low grounds and
marshes, it is rendered not only a pleasant, but a very healthy
situation.
The principal street, three-quarters of a mile in length, running in a
gradual descent nearly North and South, is on the brow of the hill. The
houses built on the Eastern side of the street have all a view of the
sea; many of them have an extensive prospect, and most have, in addition,
terraced gardens which slope downwards towards the sea: these gardens,
when viewed from the beach, present a very pleasing appearance, thickly
planted as some of them are with fruit and ornamental trees, and shrubs,
the roots of which, binding the soil, prevent it from being precipitated
into the regions beneath. A considerable number of the houses on this
side of the street are, in consequence of these natural advantages, let
in the summer season to individuals and families frequenting the town;
those on the western side of the street, having no special advantages of
this kind, are not so much in request.
Below the cliff, or terraced gardens, the fish-houses are to be found,
where the greater part of the staple business of the town is carried on.
To the North and South of the town there are large sandy plains, called
the denes, which probably were originally covered by the sea. Towards
Corton they are very extensive, and are covered with a peculiar
vegetation: there, and near the beach, may be found amongst others, the
following plants—
The Eryngium Maritimum (Sea Eryngo)
„ Glaucium Luteum (Yellow-horned Poppy)
„ Ononis Spinosa (Prickly rest-harrow)
,, Cochleria Anglica (English scurvy Grass)
„ Tussilago Farfara (Colt’s Foot)
and under the fish-houses and old walls,
The Urtica Pilulifera (Roman Nettle)
which is a rare plant of a _noli-me-tangere_ character, having a very
severe sting.
Lowestoft is the only market town in the island of Lothingland, which
island is situated in the North-east corner of the county of Suffolk, and
is formed by the German Ocean on the East, by the river Yare on the
North, by the Waveney on the West, and Lake Lothing on the South. Its
length from North to South is about ten miles; and its breadth, from East
to West about six miles. It contains sixteen parishes, and during the
Saxon heptarchy was part of the kingdom of the East Angles.
This last remark very naturally introduces us to consider some
circumstances connected with
THE HISTORY OF LOWESTOFT.
And Lowestoft has materials for a history. That history, like all which
worthily bears the name, reaches far back into the ages that are past.
Old Romans, brave Saxons, fierce Danes, have left some vestiges of their
connexion with the place, however faint they may, at this distance of
time, have become. It has had its feuds with men who dwelt across the
Yare, and nobly defended its own natural rights; it took no silent part
in the civil commotions of the middle of the seventeenth century; and was
no craven in the latter half of that century, in the wars with the Dutch
and others.
Its religious history partakes of the various characteristics of the
several ages as they have passed. Priories and candles are dimly seen in
the dark ages; image worship in the time of popery; image breaking in the
time of puritanism; learned dissent in the time when liberty arose;
warm-hearted methodism in the time of revival; vicars varying in their
tenets, from the unmitigated Romanism of Scroope, to the learned Arianism
of Whiston; and from that, to the Evangelicism of the present regime.
Its domestic history contains notices of plagues, fires, and storms,
among the more _terrific_ incidents; and of royal visits, among its
_pageants_. Among its _improvements_, we notice the erection of
light-houses, the formation of the harbour, etc., all which will require
more particular attention as we proceed.
But before we make any lengthened remarks on these points, it may not be
amiss to make
A PERAMBULATION OF THE TOWN.
Perhaps the reader lodges at the new and commodious houses, built for the
accommodation of visitors by the enterprising Mr. Fisher, known as Marine
Terrace. Let him, after leaving the house, proceed southward to the
Railway station and bridge, turn towards the sea on the Lowestoft side of
the harbour, and, leaving Baron Alderson’s abode on the left, proceed to
the Battery green; here he may see the Bath house, occupied by Mr. Jones,
where hot and cold baths can be obtained; where also, in the Reading
room, the principal newspapers may be consulted at a moderate charge.
Thence sallying forth refreshed, directing his course to the beach, and
turning to the left, he may see the lower Light-house; and out at sea,
the Stanford floating light.
Keeping along the beach, if at the commencement of the fisheries, he may
see the boats launched; if during the fishing season, he may see the fish
brought on shore; if at the close of the season, he may see the boats
hauled up and arranged on the beach.
The Fish-houses here present themselves, ranged at the bottom of the
cliff; and the denes afford the visiter several specimens of their
peculiar vegetation. Continuing his course to the Ness, he will find a
post indicating the extreme Eastern point of England; this is near the
East Battery.
He may now turn round and direct his course towards the hills; by walking
to the left, he will come to the Warren house, to the west of which is a
piece of water, where there were formerly pumps and an overshot mill,
erected for the purposes of the china manufacture carried on in the town.
If he ascend the cliff, he will have an extensive prospect of the ocean
with its shipping; he will also have before him a pleasant walk towards
the town along the edge of the cliff, and to his right a beautiful
landscape.
Crossing the gat ways, (which have been made for the purpose of admitting
carts to the beach and fish-offices,) at the bottom of which are land
springs, and a rippling streamlet, he may enter the town by the north
Light-house; leaving it and Dr. Whewell’s residence on his left, the
first house he passes on the same side is Mr. Preston’s, the next is Mrs.
Reeve’s, further on is the Vicarage, indicated by a brass plate on the
door, and opposite to it is the Baptist Chapel.
Further down, on either side of the way, are two public houses, which
give evidence of having been formerly portions of monastic buildings;
lower down on the left, is a bookseller’s shop, all that remains of the
Swan Inn, Cromwell’s head quarters; opposite is the Town Hall, near which
are seen the Market Place, the Queen’s Head, and Crown Hotels; further
down is the Star Inn, having an extensive sea view, and at the top of the
score near it, may be seen a brass plate inscribed to the memory of the
Revolution of 1688; and nearly opposite is the Post Office.
Further down still, on the left, is a flint house, built in 1587, the
residence of Mr. Took, the master of Wylde’s school; at the back of this
is Annot’s school; nearly opposite Wylde’s school is the Independent
Chapel.
Let him still proceed, and, leaving the High street, turn to the right,
he will then see the Old Market plain, instead of crossing which, if he
keep to the left, he will pass St. Peter’s Chapel.
Still bearing to the left, if he walk along the Beccles road, he will
come to Rotterdam house, once a public house, bearing the sign of “the
town of Rotterdam.”
If he has not been to the Church, he may get there from this point by a
foot path across the fields; or, instead of going to the church, he may
take the road opposite Rotterdam house, and either proceed straight
forward to the Railway and the various works connected with it, or,
vaulting a stile on his left, he may enter a pleasant foot path
conducting him towards the town; this path will lead him over a rising
ground, from which he may obtain a splendid prospect, (let him turn
himself round and admire the views by land and sea!) and will then bring
him out upon the turnpike road, nearly opposite the spot from which he
started; he may now go in and read what we have further to say about the
town.
As perhaps the visitor may wish to make a special pilgrimage to the
church, his better plan will be to start off for that purpose from the
upper part of the town, where, at the end of the pavement, he will find a
lane which leads directly to the building he is in search of. As he
walks along _this_ lane he may notice on his right, _another_ leading to
the hills (_i.e._ to the common at the north of the town) which, having
found, let him make a note of, and then proceed. After leaving the
church he may return by the road, he will then have the piece of ground
in which are the Basket Wells on his right, and the Infirmary opposite;
he may then enter the High Street again by either of the streets which
are before him.
LOWESTOFT AND THE ROMANS.
The Romans had a station in the neighbourhood of Lowestoft called
Garianonum; its present name is Burgh Castle. Whilst there, it is
probable that they frequented the coast at Lowestoft, as, from its
situation, it afforded them a post of observation which they would not be
likely to neglect. This probability is strengthened by the fact, that
some years ago, a Roman urn containing bones, was found in a piece of
ground now traversed by the Railway. It has been supposed that they
obtained their knowledge of herrings from their connexion with this spot.
LOWESTOFT AND THE DANES.
The Danes are supposed to have given the town, and island on which the
town is situated, a name. The tradition is briefly this:—Lothbroch of
royal blood, when hawking on the coast of Denmark, was overtaken by a
tempest and driven across the German Ocean, into the Yare, where he was
taken and brought before Edmund, King of the East Angles. The King and
Lothbroch were pleased each with the other, so much so, that the Dane
continued an inmate of the king’s palace. He conceived a great relish
for hunting, in which exercise he took lessons from Berno the king’s
huntsman, and soon eclipsed his teacher in the chase. Berno, envious on
account of his proficiency, secretly murdered him; his body was
discovered by means of his Greyhound, which kept watch beside the body,
and left it only when, urged by hunger, he occasionally visited the
palace for food. The dog was followed, the body found; Berno was
suspected, and being found guilty, was put on board Lothbroch’s boat, and
committed to the mercy of the winds and waves. He was carried to
Denmark, where he affirmed that Lothbroch had been murdered by Edmund,
the king of the East Angles. The sons of Lothbroch came over to avenge
their father’s death. Edmund was taken prisoner, was bound to a stake,
and shot to death with arrows in the year 871, and with him expired the
kingdom of the East Angles.
“After the death of Edmund” says Ives, “the Danes settled themselves in
Lothingland, to which tract of land they are supposed to have given that
name, in remembrance of their ancestor Lothbroch.” The town itself was
anciently called Lothu Wistoft, which name may have been given to it as
the town of Lothingland—the land of Lothbroch,—at any rate, the three
names begin with an L, and that, in an etymological discussion, is
something.
LOWESTOFT AND YARMOUTH.
The following extract from the town book, taken from Camden, is given in
Gillingwater’s History and transferred to our pages, as containing
valuable information on our present subject.
“About the year of our Lord 1100, about 500 years past,” (_i.e._
about A.D. 600) “it pleased God to lay the first foundation of the
east town of Yarmouth into firm land, even out of the main sea.
Which place was then called and known by the name of Sardike sand,
and Sardike shore; and in a short time it proved to be a fit and
commodious place for a town to be built, meet for sea-faring men to
inhabit in. And by the permission of many noble kings in this land,
his majesties progenitors, many did resort thither, and began to
build the same, and to enclose it with a stone wall on the east side
of the town (the haven being on the west side), insomuch, that,
within a short time the same grew populous.”
“And long before Yarmouth town was incorporated, the barons of the
five ports did yearly hold a free fair in the three towns of Yarmouth
(that is to say) Easton, Weston, and Southton, beginning the said
fair on the feast of St. Michael, and so continued forty days
together.”
“And by the authority of the king, they did then use to make their
repair thither, on purpose for the governing of the said fair. And
in those days there was yearly sent from the brotherhood of the five
ports, and the ancient towns, nine or ten bailiffs who governed the
fair. And it is to be noted that long before any liberties were
granted to Yarmouth, the towns of Lowestoft and Kirkley, in the
County of Suffolk, were built, and populously inhabited; and the then
town of Kirkley being the greatest town of account, and the most
ancient upon the coast, and being a haven town before that Yarmouth
was Yarmouth, and thereupon the whole fishing seas upon the confines
of Suffolk and Norfolk, take the name of Kirkley seas.”
“And to this day the seas upon those coasts are called or known by
the French fishermen coming there to fish, by the name of Kirkley
seas. And long since, before Yarmouth was incorporated there was
such trading and merchandizing of herrings at Lowestoft, and the same
was by the Yarmouth men so much envied, that civil wars subsisted for
a long time between them, with much bloodshed, until it pleased God
to take the matter into his own hands, who ended the strife with such
a great mortality of people, that there died of the plague in
Yarmouth, 7000 persons, and then the war ceased.”
The sand on which Yarmouth was founded, was dry in the year 495 when
Cerdick the Saxon first landed there, and shortly after Yarmouth began to
be erected by the Saxons.
In process of time Yarmouth obtained a charter, and after a while the
Yarmouthians attempted so to explain that charter, as to exclude the
merchants of Lowestoft from purchasing herrings in the seas near their
own town. A violent rupture between the two towns ensued, and so far did
their resentments go, that they fitted out armed vessels, commenced
hostilities on each other’s property, and even committed bloodshed. The
case was in the end brought before the house of Lords and finally
determined in favour of Lowestoft. {14}
All history gives a higher antiquity to Lowestoft than to Yarmouth, and
on this point the townsmen have been not a little jealous: the
controversy with its junior neighbour, nevertheless, was not a
controversy for pre-eminence, but for an independent existence; this it
has secured, and now, though long repressed, Lowestoft seems girding
itself anew to run the race of honorable competition with its more
fortunate rival.
LOWESTOFT AND THE CIVIL WARS.
Probably the fact that, in these wars, Yarmouth was Parliamentarian, had
no small influence in determining the men of Lowestoft to be so decidedly
Royalist. We will not, however, deny them the praise, such as it is, of
being devotedly attached to the cause of the mis-guided Charles.
Lion-hearted, noble minded Oliver, whose character has been blackened by
the accumulated injustice of two hundred years, here, in the early part
of his career, performed essential service for the Parliament. Hearing
that Sir John Pettus and others entertained a design of forming a
counter-association, to oppose that into which the Eastern counties had
entered on the part of the Parliament, he marched with the utmost
expedition to Lowestoft, surprised them and frustrated their purpose.
Whilst here, at least two honest men met together, who, whilst they
differed, could sympathise with, and understand each other. Cromwell
sent for Sir John Pettus, and interrogated him respecting the design of
the counter-association; at the same time he requested that he (Sir John)
would inform him to which party he would adhere; Sir John replied that he
should act for the King. Oliver highly applauded his frankness and
sincerity, and dismissed him with the remark, that he wished every other
man in the kingdom would be as open and sincere in declaring his real
sentiments and intentions. {16}
Cromwell, as was natural under the circumstances, took possession of guns
and ammunition to a considerable extent, and made several of the
principal inhabitants prisoners of war: the town also suffered from the
license given to the soldiers, who lived at free quarters and plundered
the inhabitants.
Yarmouth and Lowestoft having espoused opposite sides in this contest,
each party fitted out armed vessels for the annoyance of the other.
Lowestoft seemed at first to have the advantage, but Yarmouth, having
received assistance from Parliament, recovered its position. In January,
1648, Captain Allen boldly sailed into Yarmouth harbour, avowedly to
destroy the town, but, from some cause or other, determined on sailing
away again without attempting to accomplish his object. This story puts
us very much in mind of the feat, so pleasantly and graphically described
in the well known lines,—
The King of France, with twice ten thousand men,
Marched up the hill, and then marched down again.
Discretion is confessedly the better part of valour, and possibly the
Captain, in this instance, without prejudice to his character for
bravery, shewed that he was not destitute of prudence, a quality
indispensable in a good commander.
LOWESTOFT, THE DUTCH, ETC.
Admiral Sir Thomas Allen, a native of this town, first commenced
hostilities against the Dutch, in 1665, by attacking their Smyrna fleet.
In the great sea fight of June 3rd, in that year, off Lowestoft, Admiral
Allen, Admiral Utber, and Captain Utber, Lowestoft men, were all engaged.
The Duke of York commanded the English, Admiral Opdam the Dutch fleet.
In this action the Dutch had 18 ships taken and 14 sunk, exclusive of
those which were burnt or blown up; they lost 6000 men, including 2300
taken prisoners. The English lost only the _Charity_ of 46 guns, had 250
men killed, and 340 wounded. Our Lowestoft heroes were also present in
several other engagements, and aided in obtaining other splendid
victories in the further prosecution of this war.
Sir John Ashby, another native, was engaged in war with France, in the
reign of William III.
Other eminent Commanders belonged to this town, viz.—Sir Andrew Leake,
Vice-Admiral James Mighells, and Captain Thomas Arnold; their exploits
are mostly recorded on the monuments erected to their memory in the
church, to which we refer the reader.
The next section will refer to miscellaneous matters connected with
THE INTERNAL HISTORY OF THE TOWN.
And first we will notice some of the calamities with which it has been
visited; these have been principally of four kinds: Plague, Fires, Civil
dissentions, and Storms.
The _Plague_ was felt in this town very severely at several times:
probably in 1349, and certainly in 1547. In 1579, twice as many people
died in Lowestoft as in 1578; and in 1579 the Plague raged at Yarmouth;
the inference is pretty clear, this unwonted mortality was occasioned by
the Plague. In 1603, 280 persons were buried in five months; and in
1635, the number of deaths during the year was considerably above the
average, amounting to 170.
Several severe _Fires_ have happened in the town. In 1606 the vicarage
was destroyed, and with it, the town records. In March, 1644–45,
property was consumed by fire to the value of £10,300; several fires of
less magnitude have also done considerable damage.
The town could not engage in the various skirmishes with Yarmouth,
Cromwell, and others, without suffering some of the natural evil
consequences of _War_; but as we have already directed the attention of
our readers to the engagements themselves, and to the nature of the
contests in which the townsmen have striven, it may, perhaps, not be
presuming too much, to leave it to their own imagination to realise the
injury done to life and limb, and to public and private interests, by
this greatest scourge of all, with which a town or kingdom can be
visited.
It remains then for us to present a few memorials of the havoc committed
by that element, the contiguity of which to our town, gives it the
greatest charm in the eye of the visiter.
That mighty ocean which, for the most part, rolls so harmlessly on the
beach, is sometimes excited and whipt into a fury, and then scenes of
awful majesty, and sometimes of terror, are witnessed. These _Storms_
are not so seldom experienced, as absolutely to necessitate the constant
repetition of the same story to illustrate their fearful consequences;
but there is _one_ which,—though it has been several times printed—as it
has been related by an eye-witness, with all that vividness with which an
eye-witness alone could relate it, we think it most suitable to present.
Our highly respected townsman, the late Robert Reeve, Esq., describing
the storm of December 1770, says:—
“The dreadful storm on Wednesday the 19th instant, began about one
o’clock in the morning, and continued with increasing violence till
five; when the wind suddenly changed from the south-west to the
north-west, and for two hours raged with a fury that was hardly ever
equalled. Anchors and cables proved too feeble a security for the
ships, which instantly parting from them, and running on board each
other, produced a confusion, neither to be described nor conceived:
not a few immediately foundered; others were dismasted, and none
escaped unhurt. At daylight a scene of the most tragic distress was
exhibited. Those who first beheld it assert, that no less than
eighteen ships were on the sand before this place at one and the same
time; and many others were seen to sink. Of those on the sand,
one-half were entirely demolished, with their crews, before nine
o’clock; the rest were preserved a few hours longer: but this
dreadful pause served only to aggravate the destruction of the
unhappy men who belonged to them, who betook themselves to the masts
and rigging. These continually breaking, eight or ten were not
unfrequently seen to perish at a time, without the possibility of
being assisted. Fifteen only, about two in the afternoon, were taken
off one of the wrecks; and about as many more were saved by taking to
their boats, or getting on board other ships when they boarded each
other. It is impossible to collect with certainty how many lives, or
how many ships, were lost in this terrible hurricane. Twenty-five at
least, perhaps thirty ships, and two hundred men, do not seem to be
an exaggerated account. This, indeed, is too small a calculation, if
credit is to be given to one of the seamen, who declares he saw six
vessels sink not far without the Stanford, among which was a large
ship bound for Lisbon, with sixty or seventy passengers on board.
One or two of the ships which are lost belong to Yarmouth, and one to
Plymouth; but the generality are colliers, and belong to Sunderland,
Shields, and other places in the north.
“The concern this destructive scene occasioned to the spectators of
it, was increased by the following circumstance. When the masts of
one of the ships, on which were eight or nine men, fell, two of them
were some time afterwards seen struggling among the wreck; and at
length, after unremitted efforts, got upon the hull. In the
afternoon, a pilot boat ventured from the shore; but it was found
impracticable to administer any relief to the unfortunate sufferers,
whom they were compelled to leave in their forlorn state; an
approaching dark, cold, stormy night, heightened the horrors of their
situation. The next day, to the astonishment of every body, one of
the men was observed to be alive; and about noon the boat again
attempted to save him, and approached so near as to ask the poor
fellow several questions; but the hull on which he was, being
surrounded with wreck, and the sea running very high, it was
impossible to rescue him from the impending danger. He was at the
stern of the ship: towards her head the sailors conceived it barely
possible to board her with safety. This they told the unhappy man
they would attempt, and bid him walk to the place; but replying that
he was too weak to change his situation, they were again obliged to
leave him, making signs of his inconceivable distress. The ensuing
night put a period to his misfortunes and life.”
The following extracts from letters, written at the time, by the late
Rev. B. Ritson, and the late G. Everett, Esq., and inserted in the public
journals, have been supplied by Mr. H. B. Disney, one of the actors in
the several scenes described. The letters indicate at once the humanity
of the writers, the fearful character of the danger to which the
unfortunate sufferers were exposed; and the heroic bravery of the hearts
which faced the storms, to rescue fellow men from watery graves.
The following accounts are by the late Rev. B. Ritson, many years Curate
of Lowestoft.
“On Sunday morning last (Oct. 22nd, 1820) a heavy gale of wind from
SS. W. was experienced at Lowestoft, which, towards noon, had
increased almost to a hurricane; the whole sea was one continued
foam, and a most tremendous surf broke upon the shore. About twelve
o’clock, the inhabitants of the town had the pain of witnessing the
distress of a vessel, which, in attempting to gain the inner roads
through the Stanford channel, struck upon a sand called the Beacon
Ridge, and, in about seven minutes went to pieces, and all hands on
board perished. A second vessel soon after followed, and, in making
the same attempt, met with the same melancholy fate, and all the crew
were lost. The loss of these two vessels, (names unknown) was so
awfully sudden as to afford no time for assistance from shore.
“A third vessel, a sloop called the _Sarah_ and _Caroline_, of
Woodbridge, laden with coals, struck upon a sand called the Newcombe,
and remained thereon with her mast standing; but, soon filling with
water, the crew, consisting of five persons, took refuge in the
shrouds. Here their situation was most perilous; for as it was only
half ebb tide, with the wind tremendously strong, no assistance from
shore could be afforded them until the following flood, supposing the
vessel should hold together so long. In the mean time, every
necessary preparation was made to render assistance, as soon as such
an attempt should be in any measure practicable. The Lowestoft
life-boat, belonging to the “Suffolk Humane Society,” was got out and
manned under the direction of Lieutenant T. S. Carter, R.N. and when
launched, was towed a considerable way to the southward, to bring her
on a bearing with the vessel in distress. Still, however, when the
tow was let go, the boat fell to leeward of the Wreck; and it was not
until the tide began to flow, that she made any way towards attaining
her object. At length, after the most persevering and strenuous
exertions, she succeeded in gaining the wreck, and providentially
took the poor fellows from the shrouds, just as one of them was about
to drop from his hold through fatigue and cold.
“In approaching the sloop, the life-boat passed, and was hailed by a
brig, coal laden, which, on her return she boarded, and found in a
sinking state. She proved to be the _George_, of London, John Dixon,
master, with seven hands on board. These were also taken into the
life-boat; and, about six o’clock in the evening, the whole twelve
persons were safely landed on the beach at Lowestoft, without the
smallest accident whatever, amidst the congratulatory cheers and
greetings of the anxious multitude who had been witnesses of the
distress. The sloop’s mast fell about an hour after the men left it,
and the brig sunk soon after.
“Too much praise cannot be given to Lieut. Carter, the pilots, and
men on board the lifeboat, for their cool, steady, and intrepid
conduct on this very trying emergency; to whom individually the
Suffolk Humane Society have returned their thanks.” {26}
“On Friday, the 13th of January, 1815, at daybreak some of the
Lowestoft Boatmen being on the look out, perceived a wreck lying
among the breakers on the Corton sand, otherwise called the home
sand, the wreck bearing E. S. E. from the Lowestoft Upper
Light-house, and distant from shore about two miles. Three of the
pilot yawls were soon manned and put off, to visit the wreck to
ascertain whether there were any persons on board, and if so, to
render whatever necessary assistance might be in their power. Upon
approaching the wreck, the people in the yawls discovered three men
on it, but at the same time found, to their great mortification, that
by reason of a tremendous sea upon the sand, and the high surf and
broken water surrounding, and frequently breaking over the wreck, it
would be impossible for any yawl to get nearer without manifest
hazard of being dashed to pieces. A signal being thrown out by one
of the yawls that there were persons on the wreck, the life boat was
got out and manned with the utmost expedition. The alacrity with
which the brave seamen {27} leaped on board the life-boat is scarcely
to be described; after encountering much difficulty and danger in
passing through the breakers, they came near to the vessel in sight
of hundreds of spectators, who, from the heights were beholding with
astonishment their admirable nautical skill and dauntless courage; at
the same time trembling between hope and fear for their safety, and
lifting up a silent fervent prayer for the successful termination of
their perilous undertaking. Heaven in its mercy smiled propitious on
their endeavours, and rewarded the exertions of these brave men with
success, and they had the heartfelt joy of bringing the three
shipwrecked mariners to shore without any accident. The sloop was
the _Jeanie_ of Hull, laden with potatoes, and bound to London. She
sailed from Hull on Thursday morning, and about twelve at night, when
off Hasborough Gat, sprung a leak which gained so fast upon the crew
that they were obliged to run on the sand to prevent her foundering.”
The late George Everitt, Esq. writes as follows—
“On the 26th of January, 1842, about one P.M., a vessel was observed
to be in great distress, on the sand called the Inner Newcome, the
wind at the time blowing a hurricane, and the sea running “mountains
high.” The Lowestoft life-boat with a crew of nineteen men,
commanded by Lieut. T. S. Carter, R.N., assisted by Mr. H. B. Disney,
Trinity pilot, was most promptly launched, and proceeded to her
relief. By the greatest exertion and skill, a communication, by
means of a life line was established with the distressed men, who had
fled to the rigging for safety; the sea at the time making quite over
the life-boat, and filling her with water. Mr. Disney was washed
overboard, but providentially did not loose his hold of the safety
line, and was again drawn into the boat. Seven out of the eight men
on board the wreck were hauled through the surf into the life-boat, a
distance of perhaps twenty yards. At this time, the anchor of the
life-boat came home, and with great difficulty and danger, the boat
was sheered under the bowsprit of the wreck, when the cable was cut,
and she then proceeded to the shore full of water, landing her own
crew and the rescued men in safety. Lieut. Carter was carried in a
very exhausted state to a house near, where the usual means having
been resorted to, he was, after a few hours, so far restored as to be
able to return to his residence in a chaise.
“Meantime, the Pakefield life-boat, manned by a crew endowed with the
same high courage and good seamanship, which had characterized their
neighbours, made further effort to save the poor fellow who was left
on the wreck, and had the happiness of rescuing him from a watery
grave. {29}
“Our Society, assisted by our brave seamen, has again the high
satisfaction of being made the means of saving the lives of eight
fellow creatures; and at a Committee meeting summoned for that
purpose, on the morning of the following day, gave its “mite” of
reward to the crews of the boats engaged in the perilous service, and
their hearty thanks to Lieut. Carter and Mr. Disney. The Lowestoft
life-boat sustained damage to a considerable amount.
“The Suffolk Humane Society (President, Sir T. S. Gooch, Bart.,)
maintains and keeps in repair the two life-boats, and gives a stated
sum to the crews whenever called into service, out of funds raised
entirely by private subscriptions from Lowestoft and its
neighbourhood, but which cannot afford adequate reward to the men for
their intrepid service.”
The preceding quotations have sufficiently shewn the value of the
Life-boat, and of that society by which it is maintained; no other
eloquence, than that of such facts, is needed to commend the society to
the kind consideration of the generous and humane.
Connected with the life-boat there are other contrivances, the object of
which is, to render assistance to the shipwrecked mariner, when boats
cannot approach sufficiently near: they are known as
CAPTAIN MANBY’S APPARATUS.
In a note in his 69th page, Gillingwater says: “The most probable method
of rescuing seamen from those unfortunate situations, that I can think
of, is that of a kite. When the storm is so abated that a boat is able
to approach pretty near the wreck, let a line (which may soon after
easily convey a strong rope) be carried by the kite over the vessel, and
then let fall. Thus a communication may be obtained between the wreck
and the boat, and by that means, the seaman may be drawn through the
water from the ship to the boat.” Now, that which the kind hearted man
threw out as a possibility, has been shewn to be practicable; a
communication is obtained by means of this apparatus; a rope is attached
to a ball which is projected from a mortar, and thrown over the vessel in
distress: the apparatus is kept in the boat house, which is situated on
the beach, near the lower part of the town. During the summer season,
visiters are sometimes gratified by a sight of the method in which this
apparatus effects its object.
We now direct attention to various improvements and benevolent
devices.—The Light-houses, Harbour, etc.
THE LIGHT-HOUSES
are at once highly useful, and present striking objects of interest to
the visiter.
The Upper Light-house is a neat and ornamental building, situated at the
northern extremity of the High street, on a commanding eminence, and may
be seen to advantage by a person entering the town from the Yarmouth
side. It was erected in 1676, by the Brethren of the Trinity House, and
subsequently repaired and improved in the years 1778, 1825, and 1840. It
is fitted up with large plated reflectors in a lantern of plate glass.
[Picture: High Light, Lowestoft]
The Lower Light situated on the beach, towards the south of the town,
consists simply of a lantern, fitted with lamps and reflectors, as in the
case of the upper light, elevated on a framework of wood; it has received
this structure in order that it may be easily removed: it has been found
necessary sometimes to change its place, as the sands—to warn against
danger from which, the light-houses have been erected—are continually
shifting. Mariners steering in a line with these two lights, can safely
pass between the Holme and Barnard sands, the channel between which, is
not more than a quarter of a mile wide.
The purposes now answered by the light-houses were, prior to 1676,
imperfectly effected by two beacons, one of which stood on the site now
occupied by the upper light, the other stood on the north side of the
passage going down the Swan score.
There is a Floating Light called the ‘Stanford,’ anchored upon the
Stanford sand; it is fitted up with two lamps, which are suspended upon
two masts raised for the purpose. This light answers a similar purpose
to that of the others. In foggy weather, when the lights are not
visible, a gong is beaten at short intervals, to warn vessels of their
approach to the sands.
The instructions given to the persons superintending the lights are very
minute. The lanterns and reflectors must be kept constantly cleaned, and
the lamps must be trimmed every few hours; a book is kept in which the
time when the lamps are trimmed is regularly entered. The persons who
attend to the floating light are constantly on board the vessel during
the time they are in charge: there are two sets of men, (six in a set)
each set having remained a month is then relieved.
THE HARBOUR AND RAILWAY.
The Waveney originally emptied itself into the sea between Lowestoft and
Kirkley, but being a shallow stream, could not resist the gradual
formation of a mound of sand raised by the prevailing east winds, which,
in time, effectually cut off the communication between the sea and Lake
Lothing. At spring tides, however, the sea would frequently break over
the barrier, rush into the lake and over the low lands, carrying away
whatever was not sufficiently durable to resist its torrent. Mutford
Bridge has been twice carried away by the waters of the sea, though at a
distance of two miles from the beach. In 1831 the river and the sea were
again united. The harbour was formed under the auspices of Mr. Cubitt,
at the estimated cost of £87,000. This harbour and navigation afterwards
fell into the hands of Government, and were purchased of the Exchequer
Loan Commissioners in 1842, by Messrs. J. Cleveland, G. and W. Everitt,
J. S. Lincoln, J. W. Hickling, and W. Roe. These Gentlemen made various
improvements, and kept possession till October 1844, when they sold the
property to S. M. Peto, Esq.
The act for improving the harbour and forming the Railway, was passed in
the early part of 1845. Messrs. Stephenson and Bidder were appointed the
Engineers in chief, Mr. Hodges the resident Engineer, and Mr. Peto, the
general contractor. In the enterprise of Mr. Peto originated this great
work. Having purchased the harbour and navigation in 1844, he, with
other gentlemen, chiefly in the neighbourhood, formed for the above
purpose a company with a capital of £200,000.
The new Harbour of refuge is formed by two immense piers, extending for
1300 feet into the sea, enclosing the old harbour and an area of 20
acres. The width between the piers, and consequently of the harbour is
800 feet, and the average depth of water in it is 20 feet. The old
entrance within the piers will be cleared away up to the stone work, so
that there will be a spacious basin, large enough to accommodate 600 or
700 vessels. The piers consist of a stupendous timber framework,
(creasoted by Bethel’s patent process to keep out the worm,) on each side
of the harbour, 14 feet high above the water, and 30 feet in width,
filled up with immense blocks of stone from one to six tons in weight;
these sides present a solid mass of masonry. As the thousands of tons of
stone required have to be brought from a great distance in vessels, and
by railway, the filling in goes on slowly. When this work is completed,
a platform or flooring of four-inch planking, will be made on the top of
each pier.
The north pier, after extending straight out east for 700 feet, bends to
the south-east for 300 feet, and then bends again to the south for 300
feet more making in all 1300 feet. This pier is intended entirely for
business; a double tramway has been laid along it with a large turning
table at each bend.
The south pier extends from the shore for 1300 feet straight out into the
sea, and is intended for a grand promenade. The head of each pier is
circular, and 60 feet in diameter; Light-houses have been erected in the
centre of the circle at the head of each pier, and at night a brilliant
red light is exhibited.
The entrance to the harbour between the two piers is towards the
south-east; it is 160 feet wide, with a depth of 21 feet at low water.
Beyond the south pier a sea wall has been built, with towers of flint and
stone, and at the back of it, a broad embankment has been formed for the
esplanade, which is a quarter of a mile in length, and 25 feet wide, and
affords a splendid view of the sea. The fine Hotel at the northern
extremity of the esplanade, presents, in its internal arrangements, a
study for the lovers of the curious and the comfortable. Its contiguity
to the railway station and the harbour, will cause it to be greatly
frequented.
The inner harbour has been dredged to a depth of 14 feet in the channel
at low water, and this dredging will be extended up to Mutford bridge. A
substantial machine has lately been built, for the purpose of excavating
the harbour, which, by her powerful aid, will be rendered accessible to
vessels of 15 feet draught, at any state of the tide. She is of 200 tons
burthen; her engines are of 20 horse power, capable of working in 20 feet
of water; she is calculated to raise 1000 tons of soil per day. Her
form, engines, and mode of operations, are in accordance with the latest
improvements of the age.
The new wharfing, the various buildings, the offices, engine houses,
machinery for sawing timber, work shops, creasote works, coke ovens, coal
works, warehouses, stations, and about six lines of railway branching
from the piers on the north side of the inner harbour, occupy a space of
about sixty acres; altogether this improvement will present one of the
finest combinations of railway and sea communication in the country.
The Railway passes from the terminus near the harbour, over Lake Lothing,
and through several Villages till it joins the Norwich and Yarmouth line
at Reedham. Thus, when all arrangements are completed, vessels may
unlade their merchandize at the pier, it may be immediately placed in the
railway carriage and transported to Norwich, London, or any part of
England with the greatest facility.
THE INFIRMARY
is situated at the western extremity of the town on the road leading to
the church. The society by which this building has been erected was
formed in 1822, but the building itself was not erected till 1839. It
comprises two spacious wards, well ventilated and warmed, and other
necessary conveniences. It has attached to it, a small museum of morbid
anatomy, presented by W. C. Worthington, Esq., Surgeon to the Infirmary.
Funds are now much required for providing suitable food for the
distressed inmates, whose means frequently do not allow them to procure
what is necessary for them, whilst receiving the medical assistance
afforded by the institution.
THE FISHERMEN’S HOSPITAL
is a neat series of six cottages built below the town, for aged and
infirm fishermen. The cost of the whole erection was £600.
ALMS-HOUSES.
The giver of two houses (formerly four, but two were destroyed by fire in
1707) in the Fair lane, originally part of the parish work-house, is
unknown. The giver of a house towards the south end of the High street,
is also unknown.
James Hocker, a labourer, who died in 1710, gave his _All_, about £120;
with part of which, a stone and brick house in the Fair lane was bought,
which is now occupied by such persons as the churchwardens appoint.
Martin Brown, merchant, of Rotterdam, left a sum of money, under the
management of Mr. Wilde, sufficient to erect four houses for poor
persons; with which the alms-houses at the west end of Bell lane were
erected in 1716.
Before leaving this division of our history, we direct our readers to an
episode or two of widely opposite characters; the first is
LOWESTOFT AND THE WITCHES.
One of the _dark_ spots resting upon the townspeople of more ancient
times, is the share some of them took in the persecution of the
“threescore witches” who were hanged in Suffolk. In 1663, Mr. Samuel
Pacey commenced a prosecution against Rose Cullender and Amy Duny, two
poor old widows, for witchcraft practised—as it was said—on his two
daughters, children, respectively of the ages of eleven and nine years.
After being placed in the stocks, and suffering other indignities, they
were formally indicted at the lent assizes, held at Bury, on the 10th of
March, 1664, before Sir Matthew Hale, Lord Chief Baron of the Exchequer,
for bewitching, amongst others, the aforesaid children. Being arraigned,
they pleaded not guilty; but after a long course of the most absurd
evidence, the poor creatures were found guilty, and sentenced to death.
They suffered accordingly, on Monday, the 17th of March following. It
appears, that the good sense of many persons present rejected the
evidence, and they would very probably have been acquitted, had not the
learned opinion of Dr. Brown, a physician of Norwich, who was desired by
the court to give his sentiments concerning the prisoners, turned the
scale against them. The Doctor stated “that he was clearly of opinion
that the two girls were bewitched; for that in Denmark there had been
lately a great discovery of witches, and from some books that had been
published in that kingdom, it appears that the witches there had used the
same method of afflicting persons as had been practised by the
prisoners.”
We have next to invite our readers to consider
LOWESTOFT IN CONNEXION WITH ROYALTY.
This town is not like common towns, obliged to be content with rendering
a general homage to the throne, but was part of the ancient demesne of
the crown, and has in consequence been entitled to many privileges,
particularly exemptions from toll, stallage, chiminage, pontage, pannage,
picage, murrage, lastage, and passage. These, in the growth of the
nation have become obsolete. One profitable exemption, however, the
townsmen yet enjoy, that is, from serving on juries, either at the
assizes or quarter sessions.
Lowestoft has once seen a king: George II. landed here on his return from
Hanover, January, 14th, 1736–7, and when the royal barge approached the
shore, a body of sailors belonging to the town waded into the sea, took
the barge and its freight upon their shoulders, and carried it to the
beach. J. Jex, Esq., with his carriage, met his majesty on the shore,
and acted as coachman on the occasion. His majesty (as appears from a
notice on the staircase) was entertained at the house opposite the town
hall, now occupied by Mr. Chaston, draper.
The town was favoured with another royal visit,
“That is to say it would have been,
If it had not been prevented.”
for the royal yacht which brought to England Charlotte, the consort of
George III., would have landed here, as George II. did on his return from
Hanover, had not the wind suddenly changed.
THE RELIGIOUS HISTORY OF THE TOWN