There is a spot on the edge of the Berg which we made our summer
quarters. When September came round and the sun swung higher in the
steely blue, blazing down more pitilessly than ever; when the little
creeks were running dry and the water-holes became saucers of cracked
mud; when the whole country smelt of fine impalpable dust; it was a
relief to quit the Bushveld, and even the hunting was given up almost
without regret.
On the Berg the air was clear and bracing, as well it might be five to
seven thousand feet above the sea. The long green sweeps of undulating
country were broken by deep gorges where the mountain streams had cut
their way through the uptilted outer edge of the big plateau and tumbled
in countless waterfalls into the Bushveld below; and behind the rolling
downs again stood the remnants of the upper formation--the last tough
fragments of those rocks which the miners believed originally held the
gold--worn and washed away, inch by inch and ounce by ounce ever since
the Deluge. These broken parapets stood up like ruins of giant castles
with every layer in their formation visible across their rugged
time-worn fronts--lines, in places a few yards only and in others a mile
or more in length, laid one upon another as true as any spirit level
could set them--and a wealth of colouring over all that, day by day, one
thought more wonderful in variety and blend. Grey and black and yellow,
white and red and brown, were there; yet all harmonising, all shaded by
growths of shrub and creeper, by festoons of moss or brilliant lichen,
all weather-stained and softened, all toned, as time and nature do it,
to make straight lines and many colours blend into the picturesque.
Paradise Camp perched on the very edge of the Berg. Behind us rolled
green slopes to the feet of the higher peaks, and in front of us lay the
Bushveld. From the broken battlements of the Berg we looked down three
thousand feet, and eastward to the sea a hundred and fifty miles away,
across the vast panorama. Black densely-timbered kloofs broke the edge
of the plateau into a long series of projecting turrets, in some places
cutting far in, deep crevices into which the bigger waterfalls plunged
and were lost. But the top of the Berg itself was bare of trees: the
breeze blew cool and fresh for ever there; the waters trickled and
splashed in every little break or tumbled with steady roar down the
greater gorges; deep pools, fringed with masses of ferns, smooth as
mirrors or flecked with dancing sunlight, were set like brilliants in
the silver chain of each little stream; and rocks and pebbles, wonderful
in their colours, were magnified and glorified into polished gems by the
sparkling water.
But Nature has her moods, and it was not always thus at Paradise Camp.
When the cold mist-rains, like wet grey fogs, swept over us and for a
week blotted out creation, it was neither pleasant nor safe to grope
along the edge of the Berg, in search of strayed cattle--wet and cold,
unable to see, and checked from time to time by a keener straighter gust
that leapt up over the unseen precipice a few yards off.
And there was still another mood when the summer rains set in and the
storms burst over us, and the lightning stabbed viciously in all
directions, and the crackling crash of the thunder seemed as if the very
Berg itself must be split and shattered. Then the rivers rose; the roar
of waters was all around us; and Paradise Camp was isolated from the
rest by floods which no man would lightly face.
Paradise Camp stood on the edge of the kloof where the nearest timber
grew; Tumbling Waters, where stood the thousand grey sandstone sentinels
of strange fantastic shapes, was a couple of miles away facing Black
Bluff, the highest point of all, and The Camel, The Wolf, The Sitting
Hen and scores more, rough casts in rock by Nature's hand, stood there.
Close below us was the Bathing Pool, with its twenty feet of purest
water, its three rock-ledge `springboards,' and its banks of moss and
canopies of tree-ferns. Further down the stream spread in a thousand
pools and rapids over a mile of black bedrock and then poured in one
broad sheet over Graskop Falls. And still further down were the Mac Mac
Falls, three hundred feet straight drop into the rock-strewn gorge,
where the straight walls were draped with staghorn moss, like countless
folds of delicate green lace, bespangled by the spray. We were felling
and slipping timber for the goldfields then, and it was in these
surroundings that the work was done.
It was a Sunday morning, and I was lying on my back on a sack-stretcher
taking it easy, when Jock gave a growl and trotted out. Presently I
heard voices in the next hut and wondered who the visitors were--too
lazily content to get up and see; then a cold nose was poked against my
cheek and I looked round to see Jess's little eyes and flickering ears
within a few inches of my face. For the moment she did not look cross,
but as if a faint smile of welcome were flitting across a soured face;
then she trotted back to the other hut where Ted was patting Jock and
trying to trace a likeness to The Rat.
It was a long time since mother and son had been together, and if the
difference between them was remarkable, the likeness seemed to me more
striking still. Jock had grown up by himself and made himself; he was
so different from other dogs that I had forgotten how much he owed to
good old Jess; but now that they were once more side by side everything
he did and had done recalled the likeness and yet showed the difference
between them. Many times as we moved about the camp or worked in the
woods they walked or stood together, sometimes sniffing along some spoor
and sometimes waiting and watching for us to come up--handsome son and
ugly mother. Ugly she might be, with her little fretful hostile eyes
and her uncertain ever-moving ears, and silent sour and cross; but
stubborn fidelity and reckless courage were hers too; and all the good
Jock had in him came from Jess.
To see them side by side was enough: every line in his golden brindled
coat had its counterpart in her dull markings; his jaw was hers, with a
difference, every whit as determined but without the savage look; his
eyes were hers--brown to black as the moods changed--yet not fretful and
cross, but serenely observant, when quiet, and black, hot and angry,
like hers, when roused--yet without the look of relentless cruelty; his
ears were hers--and yet how different, not shifting, flickering and ever
on the move, nor flattened back with the look of most uncertain temper,
but sure in their movements and faithful reflectors of more sober moods
and more balanced temper, and so often cocked--one full and one half--
with a look of genuinely friendly interest which, when he put his head
on one side, seemed to change in a curiously comical way into an
expression of quiet amusement.
The work kept us close to camp and we gave no thought to shooting; yet
Jess and Jock had some good sport together. We gave them courses for
breathers after Oribi in the open, but these fleetest of little
antelopes left them out of sight in very few minutes. Bushbuck too were
plentiful enough, but so wily in keeping to the dark woods and deep
kloofs that unless we organised a drive the only chance one got was to
stalk them in the early morning as they fed on the fringes of the bush.
I often wondered how the dogs would have fared with those desperate
fighters that have injured and killed more dogs and more men than any
other buck, save perhaps the Sable.
Once they caught an ant-bear in the open, and there was a
rough-and-tumble; we had no weapons--not even sticks--with us, and the
dogs had it all to themselves. The clumsy creature could do nothing
with them; his powerful digging claws looked dangerous, but the dogs
never gave him a chance; he tried hard to reach his hole, but they
caught him as he somersaulted to dodge them, and, one in front and one
behind, worried the life out of him.
Once they killed a tiger-cat. We heard the rush and the row, and
scrambled down through the tangled woods as fast as we could, but they
fought on, tumbling and rolling downhill before us, and when we came up
to them it was all over and they were tugging and tearing at the
lifeless black and white body, Jess at the throat and Jock at the
stomach. The cat was as big as either of them and armed with most
formidable claws, which it had used to some purpose, for both dogs were
torn and bleeding freely in several places. Still they thoroughly
enjoyed it and searched the place afresh every time we passed it, as
regularly as a boy looks about where he once picked up a sixpence.
Then the dainty little klipspringers led them many a crazy dance along
the crags and ledges of the mountain face, jumping from rock to rock
with the utmost ease and certainty and looking down with calm curiosity
at the clumsy scrambling dogs as they vainly tried to follow. The
dassies too--watchful, silent and rubber-footed--played hide-and-seek
with them in the cracks and crevices; but the dogs had no chance there.
Often there were races after baboons. There were thousands of them
along the Berg, but except when a few were found in the open, we always
called the dogs in. Among a troop of baboons the best of dogs would
have no show at all. Ugly, savage and treacherous as they are, they
have at least one quality which compels admiration--they stand by each
other. If one is attacked or wounded the others will often turn back
and help, and they will literally tear a dog to pieces. Even against
one full-grown male a dog has little or no chance; for they are very
powerful, quick as lightning, and fierce fighters. Their enormous jaws
and teeth outmatch a dog's, and with four `hands' to help them the
advantage is altogether too great. Their method of fighting is to hold
the dog with all four feet and tear pieces out of him with their teeth.
We knew the danger well, for there was a fighting baboon at a wayside
place not far from us--a savage brute, owned by a still greater savage.
It was kept chained up to a pole with its house on the top of the pole;
and what the owner considered to be a good joke was to entice dogs up,
either to attack the baboon or at least to come sniffing about within
reach of it, and then see them worried to death. The excuse was always
the same: "Your dog attacked the baboon. I can't help it." Sometimes
the dogs were rescued by their owners; but many were killed. To its
native cunning this brute added all the tricks that experience had
taught, sometimes hiding up in its box to induce the dog to come
sniffing close up; sometimes grubbing in the sand for food, pretending
not to see the intruder until he was well within reach; sometimes
running back in feigned alarm to draw him on. Once it got a grip the
baboon threw itself on its side or back and, with all four feet holding
the dog off, tore lumps out of the helpless animal. A plucky dog that
would try to make a fight of it had no chance; the only hope was to get
away, if possible.
Not every baboon is a fighter like this, but in almost every troop there
will be at least one terrible old fellow, and the biggest, strongest and
fiercest always dominate and lead the others; and their hostility and
audacity are such that they will loiter behind the retreating troop and
face a man on foot or on horseback, slowly and reluctantly giving way,
or sometimes moving along abreast, a hostile escort, giving loud roars
of defiance and hoarse challenges as though ready on the least
provocation or excuse to charge. It is not a pleasant position for an
unarmed man, as at the first move or call from the leader the whole
troop would come charging down again. It is not actual danger that
impresses one, but the uncanny effect of the short defiant roars, the
savage half-human look of the repulsive creatures, their still more
human methods of facial expression and threatening attitudes, their
tactics in encircling their object and using cover to approach and peer
out cautiously from behind it, and their evident co-operation and
obedience to the leader's directions and example.
One day while at work in the woods there came to us a grizzled
worn-looking old kaffir, whose head ring of polished black wax attested
his dignity as a kehla. He carried an old musket and was attended by
two youngsters armed with throwing-sticks and a hunting assegai each.
He appeared to be a `somebody' in a small way, and we knew at a glance
that he had not come for nothing.
There is a certain courtesy and a good deal of formality observed among
the natives which is appreciated by but few of the white men who come in
contact with them. One reason for this failure in appreciation is that
native courtesy is in its method and expression sometimes just the
reverse of what we consider proper; and if actions which seem suggestive
of disrespect were judged from the native's standpoint, and according to
his code, there would be no misunderstanding. The old man, passing and
ignoring the group of boys, came towards us as we sat in the shade for
the midday rest, and slowly came to a stand a few yards off, leaning on
his long flint-lock quietly taking stock of us each in turn, and waiting
for us to inspect him. Then, after three or four minutes of this, he
proceeded to salute us separately with "Sakubona, Umlungu!" delivered
with measured deliberation at intervals of about a quarter of a minute,
each salutation being accompanied by the customary upward movement of
the head--their respectful equivalent of our nod or bow. When he had
done the round, his two attendants took their turns, and when this was
over, and another long pause had served to mark his respect, he drew
back a few paces to a spot about half-way between us and where the
kaffirs sat, and, tucking his loin skins comfortably under him, squatted
down. Ten minutes more elapsed before he allowed his eyes to wander
absently round towards the boys and finally to settle on them for a
repetition of the performance that we had been favoured with. But in
this case it was they who led off with the "Sakubona, Umganaam!" which
he acknowledged with the raising of the head and a soft murmur of
contented recognition, "A-he."
Once more there was silence for a spell, while he waited to be
questioned in the customary manner and to give an account of himself,
before it would be courteous or proper to introduce the subject of his
visit. It was Jim's voice that broke the silence--clear and imperative,
as usual, but not uncivil. It always was Jim who cut in, as those do
who are naturally impatient of delays and formalities.
"Velapi, Umganaam?" (Where do you come from, friend?) he asked, putting
the question which is recognised as courteously providing the stranger
with an opening to give an account of himself; and he is expected and
required to do so to their satisfaction before he in turn can ask all
about them, their occupations, homes, destination and master, and his
occupation, purpose and possessions.
The talk went round in low exchanges until at last the old man moved
closer and joined the circle; and then the other voices dropped out,
only to be heard once in a while in some brief question or that briefest
of all comments--the kaffir click and "Ow!" It may mean anything,
according to the tone, but it was clearly sympathetic on that occasion.
The old man's voice went on monotonously in a low-pitched impassive
tone; but the boys hung intent on every word to the end. Then one or
two questions, briefly answered in the same tone of detached philosophic
indifference, brought their talk to a close. The old fellow tapped his
carved wood snuff-box with the carefully-preserved long yellowish nail
of one forefinger, and pouring some snuff into the palm of his hand,
drew it into each nostril in turn with long luxurious sniffs; and then,
resting his arms on his knees, he relapsed into complete silence.
We called the boys to start work again, and they came away, as is their
custom, without a word or look towards the man whose story had held them
for the last half-hour. Nor did he speak or stir, but sat on unmoved, a
picture of stoical indifference. But who can say if it be indifference
or fatalism or the most astute diplomacy? Among white men opinions
differ: I put it down as fatalism.
We asked no questions, for we knew it was no accident that had brought
the old man our way: he wanted something, and we would learn soon enough
what it was. So we waited.
As we gathered round the fallen tree to finish the cleaning and slip it
down to the track Jim remarked irrelevantly that tigers were `schelms,'
and it was his conviction that there were a great many in the kloofs
round about. At intervals during the next hour or so he dropped other
scraps about tigers and their ways, and how to get at them and what good
sport it was, winding up with a short account of how two seasons back an
English `Capitaine' had been killed by one only a few miles away.
Jim was no diplomatist: he had tiger on the brain, and showed it; so
when I asked him bluntly what the old man had been talking about, the
whole story came out. There was a tiger--it was of course the biggest
ever seen--which had been preying on the old chief's kraal for the last
six months: dogs, goats and kaffir sheep innumerable had disappeared,
even fowls were not despised; and only two days ago the climax had been
reached when, in the cool of the afternoon and in defiance of the
yelling herd boy, it had slipped into the herd at the drinking-place and
carried off a calf--a heifer-calf too! The old man was poor: the tiger
had nearly ruined him; and he had come up to see if we, "who were great
hunters," would come down and kill the thief, or at least lend him a
tiger-trap, as he could not afford to buy one.
In the evening when we returned to camp we found the old fellow there,
and heard the story told with the same patient resignation or stoical
indifference with which he had told it to the boys; and, if there was
something inscrutable in the smoky eyes that might have hidden a more
calculating spirit, it did not trouble us--the tiger was what we wanted;
the chance seemed good enough; and we decided to go. Tigers--as they
are almost invariably called, but properly, leopards--were plentiful
enough and were often to be heard at night in the kloofs below; but they
are extremely wary animals and in the inhabited parts rarely move about
by day; however, the marauding habits and the audacity of this fellow
were full of promise.
The following afternoon we set off with our guns and blankets, a little
food for two days, and the tiger-trap; and by nightfall we had reached
the foot of the Berg by paths and ways which you might think only a
baboon could follow.
It was moonlight, and we moved along through the heavily-timbered kloofs
in single file behind the shadowy figure of the shrivelled old chief.
His years seemed no handicap to him, as with long easy soft-footed
strides he went on hour after hour. The air was delightfully cool and
sweet with the fresh smells of the woods; the damp carpet of moss and
dead leaves dulled the sound of our more blundering steps; now and again
through the thick canopy of evergreens we caught glimpses of the moon,
and in odd places the light threw stumps or rocks into quaint relief or
turned some tall bare trunk into a ghostly sentinel of the forest.
We had crossed the last of the many mountain streams and reached open
ground when the old chief stopped, and pointing to the face of a high
krans--black and threatening in the shadow, as it seemed to overhang
us--said that somewhere up there was a cave which was the tiger's home,
and it was from this safe refuge that he raided the countryside.
The kraal was not far off. From the top of the spur we could look
round, as from the pit of some vast coliseum, and see the huge wall of
the Berg towering up above and half enclosing us, the whole arena roofed
over by the star-spattered sky. The brilliant moonlight picked out
every ridge and hill, deepening the velvet black of the shadowed
valleys, and on the rise before us there was the twinkling light of a
small fire, and the sound of voices came to us, borne on the still night
air, so clearly that words picked out here and there were repeated by
our boys with grunting comments and chuckles of amusement.
We started on again down an easy slope passing through some bush, and at
the bottom came on level ground thinly covered with big shady trees and
scattered undergrowth. As we walked briskly through the flecked and
dappled light and shade, we were startled by the sudden and furious rush
of Jess and Jock off the path and away into the scrub on the left; and
immediately after there was a grunting noise, a crashing and scrambling,
and then one sharp clear yelp of pain from one of the dogs. The old
chief ran back behind us, shouting "Ingwa, ingwa!" (Tiger, tiger). We
slipped our rifles round and stood facing front, unable to see anything
and not knowing what to expect. There were sounds of some sort in the
bush--something like a faint scratching, and something like smothered
sobbing grunts, but so indistinct as to be more ominous and disquieting
than absolute silence.
"He has killed the dogs," the old chief said, in a low voice.
But as he said it there was a rustle in front, and something came out
towards us. The guns were up and levelled, instantly, but dropped again
when we saw it was a dog; and Jess came back limping badly and stopping
every few paces to shake her head and rub her mouth against her
fore-paws. She was in great pain and breathed out faint barely-audible
whines from time to time.
We waited for minutes, but Jock did not appear; and as the curious
sounds still came from the bush we moved forward in open order, very
slowly and with infinite caution. As we got closer, scouting each bush
and open space, the sounds grew clearer, and suddenly it came to me that
it was the noise of a body being dragged and the grunting breathing of a
dog. I called sharply to Jock and the sound stopped; and taking a few
paces forward then, I saw him in a moonlit space turning round and round
on the pivot of his hind legs and swinging or dragging something much
bigger than himself.
Jim gave a yell and shot past me, plunging his assegai into the object
and shouting "Porcupine, porcupine," at the top of his voice. We were
all round it in a couple of seconds, but I think the porcupine was as
good as dead even before Jim had stabbed it. Jock was still holding on
grimly, tugging with all his might and always with the same movement of
swinging it round him, or, of himself circling round it--perhaps that is
the fairer description, for the porcupine was much the heavier. He had
it by the throat where the flesh is bare of quills, and had kept himself
out of reach of the terrible spikes by pulling away all the time, just
as he had done with the duiker and other buck to avoid their hind feet.
This encounter with the porcupine gave us a better chance of getting the
tiger than we ever expected--too good a chance to be neglected; so we
cut the animal up and used the worthless parts to bait the big
tiger-trap, having first dragged them across the veld for a good
distance each way to leave a blood spoor which would lead the tiger up
to the trap. This, with the quantity of blood spread about in the
fight, lying right in the track of his usual prowling ought to attract
his attention, we thought; and we fastened the trap to a big tree,
making an avenue of bushes up to the bait so that he would have to walk
right over the trap hidden under the dead leaves, in order to get at the
bait. We hoped that, if it failed to hold, it would at least wound him
badly enough to enable us to follow him up in the morning.
In the bright light of the fire that night, as Jock lay beside me having
his share of the porcupine steaks, I noticed something curious about his
chest, and on looking closer found the whole of his white `shirt front'
speckled with dots of blood; he had been pricked in dozens of places,
and it was clear that it had been no walk-over for him; he must have had
a pretty rough handling before he got the porcupine on the swing. He
was none the worse, however, and was the picture of contentment as he
lay beside me in the ring facing the fire.
But Jess was a puzzle. From the time that she had come hobbling back to
us, carrying her one foot in the air and stopping to rub her mouth on
her paws, we had been trying to find out what was the matter. The foot
trouble was clear enough, for there was a quill fifteen inches long and
as stiff and thick as a lead pencil still piercing the ball of her foot,
with the needle-like point sticking out between her toes. Fortunately
it had not been driven far through and the hole was small, so that once
it was drawn and the foot bandaged she got along fairly well. It was
not the foot that was troubling her; all through the evening she kept
repeating the movement of her head, either rubbing it on her front legs
or wiping her muzzle with the paws, much as a cat does when washing its
face. She would not touch food and could not lie still for five
minutes; and we could do nothing to help her.