then punished with the penalties of treason; and they die for no other
cause than their faith, by the same token that each of those which
have perished on the scaffold had his life offered to him if so he
would torn Protestant."
In the heat of this argument I had forgot prudence; and some unkindly
ears and eyes were attending to my speech, which this young stranger
perceiving, he changed the subject of discourse--I ween with a
charitable intent--and merrily exclaimed, "Now I have this day
transgressed a wise resolve."
"What resolve?" I said, glad also to retreat from dangerous subjects.
'"This," he answered: "that after my return I would sparingly, and not
without entreaty, relate my journeys and observations."
"Then, sir," I replied, "methinks you have contrariwise observed it,
for your observations have been short and pithy, and withal uttered at
mine entreaty."
"Nothing," he said, "I so much fear as to resemble men--and many such
I have myself known--who have scarce seen the lions of the Tower and
the bears of Parish Garden, but they must engross all a table in
talking of their adventures, as if they had passed the Pillars of
Hercules. Nothing could be asked which they could not resolve of their
own knowledge."
"Find you, sir," I said, "much variety in the manners of French people
and those you see in this country?"
He smiled, and answered, "We must not be too nice observers of men and
manners, and too easily praise foreign customs and despise our own
--not so much that we may not offend others, as that we may not be
ourselves offended by others. I will yield you an example. A
Frenchman, being a curious observer of ceremonious compliments, when
he hath saluted one, and began to entertain him with speech, if he
chance to espy another {643} man, with whom he hath very great
business, yet will he not leave the first man without a solemn excuse.
But an Englishman discoursing with any man--I mean in a house or
chamber of presence, not merely in the street--if he spy another man
with whom he hath occasion to speak, will suddenly, without any
excuse, turn from the first man and go and converse with the other,
and with like negligence will leave and take new men for discourse;
which a Frenchman would take in ill part, as an argument of
disrespect. This fashion, and many other like niceties and curiosities
in use in one country, we must forget when we do pass into another.
For lack of this prudence I have seen men on their return home tied to
these foreign manners themselves, and finding that others observe not
the like toward them, take everything for an injury, as if they were
disrespected, and so are often enraged."
"What think you of the dress our ladies do wear?" I inquired of this
young traveller.
He smiled, and answered:
"I like our young gentlewomen's gowns, and their aprons of fine linen,
and their little hats of beaver; but why have they left wearing the
French sleeves, borne out with hoops of whalebone, and the French hood
of velvet, set with a border of gold buttons and pearls? Methinks
English ladies are too fond of jewels and diamond rings. They scorn
plain gold rings, I find, and chains of gold."
"Yea," I said, "ladies of rank wear only rich chains of pearl, and all
their jewels must needs be oriental and precious. If any one doth
choose to use a simple chain or a plain-set brooch, she is marked for
wearing old-fashioned gear."
"This remindeth me," he said, "of a pleasant fable, that Jupiter sent
a shower, wherein whosoever was wet became a fool, and that all the
people were wet in this shower, excepting one philosopher, who kept
his study; but in the evening coming forth into the market-place, and
finding that all the people marked him as a fool, who was only wise,
he was forced to pray for another shower, that he might become a fool,
and so live quietly among fools rather than bear the envy of his
wisdom."
With this pleasant story our conversation ended, for supper was over,
and the young gentleman soon went away. I asked of many persons who he
should be, but none could tell me. Polly, the next day, said he was a
youth lately returned from France (which was only what I knew before),
and that Sir Nicholas Throckmorton had written a letter to Lady
Ingoldsby concerning him, but his name she had forgot. O what strange
haps, more strange than any in books, do at times form the thread of a
true history! what presentiments in some cases, what ignorance in
others, beset us touching coming events!
The next pages will show the ground of these reflections.
CHAPTER XXV.
One day that Mrs. Wells was somewhat disordered, and keeping her room,
and I was sitting with her, her husband came to fetch me into the
parlor to an old acquaintance, he said, who was very desirous for to
see me. "Who is it?" I asked; but he would not tell me, only smiled;
my foolish thinking supposed for one instant that it might be Basil he
spoke of, but the first glance showed me a slight figure and pale
countenance, very different to his whom my witless hopes had expected
for to see, albeit without the least shadow of reason. I stood looking
at this stranger in a hesitating manner, who perceiving I did not know
him, held out his hand, and said,
"Has Mistress Constance forgotten her old playfellow?"
"Edmund Genings!" I exclaimed, suddenly guessing it to be him.
{644}
"Yea," he said, "your old friend Edmund."
"Mr. Ironmonger is this reverend gentleman's name now-a-days," Mr.
Wells said; and then we all three sat down, and by degrees in Edmund's
present face I discerned the one I remembered in former years. The
same kind and reflective aspect, the pallid hue, the upward-raised
eye, now with less of searching in its gaze, but more, I ween, of
yearning for an unearthly home.
"O dear and reverend sir," I said, "strange it doth seem indeed thus
to address you, but God knoweth I thank him for the honor he hath done
my old playmate in the calling of him unto his service in these
perilous times."
"Yea," he answered, with emotion, "I do owe him much, which life
itself should not be sufficient to repay."
"My good father," I said, "some time before his death gave me a token
in a letter that you were in England. Where have you been all this
time?"
"Tell us the manner of your landing," quoth Mr. Wells; "for this is
the great ordeal which, once overpassed, lets you into the vineyard,
for to work for one hour only sometimes, or else to bear many years
the noontide heat and nipping frosts which laborers like unto yourself
have to endure."
"Well," said Edmund, "ten months ago we took shipping at Honfleur,
and, wind and weather being propitious, sailed along the coast of
England, meaning to have landed in Essex; but for our sakes the master
of the bark lingered, when we came in sight of land, until two hours
within night, and being come near unto Scarborough, what should happen
but that a boat with pirates or rovers in it comes out to surprise us,
and shoots at us divers times with muskets! But we came by no harm;
for the wind being then contrary, the master turned his ship and
sailed back into the main sea, where in very foul weather we remained
three days, and verily I thought to have then died of sea-sickness;
which ailment should teach a man humility, if anything in this world
can do it, stripping him as it does of all boastfulness of his own
courage and strength, so that he would cry mercy if any should offer
only to move him."
"Ah!" cried Mr. Wells, laughing, "Topcliffe should bethink himself of
this new torment for papists, for to leave a man in this plight until
he acknowledged the queen's supremacy should be an artful device of
the devil."
"At last," quoth Mr. Genings, "we landed, with great peril to our
lives, on the side of a high cliff near Whitby, in Yorkshire, and
reached that town in the evening. Going into an inn to refresh
ourselves, which I promise you we sorely needed, who should we meet
with there but one Radcliff?"
"Ah! a noted pursuivant," cried Mr. Wells, "albeit not so topping a
one as his chief."
"Ah!" I cried, "good Mr. Wells, that is but a poor pun, I promise you.
A better one you must frame before night, or you will lose your
reputation. The queen's last effort hath more merit in it than yours,
who, when she was angry with her envoy to Spain, said, 'If her royal
brother had sent her a goose-man, [Footnote 94] she had sent him in
return a man-goose.'"
[Footnote 94: Guzman.]
Mr. Genings smiled, and said:
"Well, this same Radcliff took an exact survey of us all, questioned
us about our arrival in that place, whence we came, and whither we
were going. We told him we were driven thither by the tempest, and at
last, by evasive answers, satisfied him. Then we all went to the house
of a Catholic gentleman in the neighborhood, which was within two or
three miles of Whitby, and by him were directed some to one place,
some to another, according to our own desires. Mr. Plasden and I kept
together; but, for fear of suspicion, we determined at last to
separate also, and singly to commit ourselves to the protection of God
and his good angels. Soon after we had thus {645} resolved, we came to
two fair beaten was, the one leading north-east, the other south-east,
and even then and there, it being in the night, we stopped and both
fell down on our knees and made a short prayer together that God of
his infinite mercy would vouchsafe to direct us, and send us both a
peaceable passage into the thickest of his vineyard."
Here Mr. Genings paused, a little moved by the remembrance of that
parting, but in a few minutes exclaimed:
"I have not seen that dear friend since, rising from our knees, we
embraced each other with tears trickling down our cheeks; but the
words he said to me then I shall never, methinks, forget. 'Seeing,'
quoth, he, 'we must now part through fear of our enemies, and for
greater security, farewell, sweet brother in Christ and most loving
companion. God grant that, as we have been friends in one college and
companions in one wearisome and dangerous journey, so we may have one
merry meeting once again in this world, to our great comfort, if it
shall please him, even amongst our greatest adversaries; and that as
we undertake, for his love and holy name's sake, this course of life
together, so he will of his infinite goodness and clemency make us
partakers of one hope, one sentence, one death, and one reward. And
also as we began, so may we end together in Christ Jesus.' So he; and
then not being able to speak one word more for grief and tears, we
departed in mutual silence; he directing his journey to London, where
he was born, and I northward."
"Then you have not been into Staffordshire?" I said.
"Yea," he answered, "later I went to Lichfield, in order to try if I
should peradventure find there any of mine old friends and kinsfolks."
"And did you succeed therein?" I inquired.
"The only friends I found," he answered, with a melancholy smile,
"were the gray cloisters, the old cathedral walls, the trees of the
close; the only familiar voices which did greet me were the chimes of
the tower, the cawing of the rooks over mine head as I sat in the
shade of the tall elms near unto the wall where our garden once
stood."
"Oh, doth that house and that garden no more exist?" I cried.
"No, it hath been pulled down, and the lawn thereof thrown into the
close."
"Then," I said, "the poor bees and butterflies must needs fare badly.
The bold rooks, I ween, are too exalted to suffer from these changes.
Of Sherwood Hall did you hear aught, Mr. Genings?"
"Mr. Ironmonger," Mr. Wells said, correcting me.
"Alas!" Edmund replied, "I dared not so much as to approach unto it,
albeit I passed along the high road not very far from the gate
thereof. But the present inhabitants are famed for their hatred unto
recusants, and like to deal rigorously with any which should come in
their way."
I sighed, and then asked him how long he had been in London.
"About one month," he replied. "As I have told you. Mistress
Constance, all my kinsfolk that I wot of are now dead, except my young
brother John, whom I doubt not you yet do bear in mind--that fair,
winsome, mischievous urchin, who was carried to La Rochelle about one
year before your sweet mother died."
"Yea," I said, "I can see him yet gallopping on a stick round the
parlor at Lichfield."
"'Tis to look for him," Edmund said, "I am come to London. Albeit I
fear much inquiry on my part touching this youth should breed
suspicion, I cannot refrain, brotherly love soliciting me thereunto,
from seeking him whom report saith careth but little for his soul, and
who hath no other relative in the world than myself. I have warrant
for to suppose he should be in London; but these four weeks, {646}
with useless diligence, I have made search for him, leaving no place
unsought where I could suspect him to abide; and as I see no hopes of
success, I am resolved to leave the city for a season."
Then Mr. Wells proposed to carry Edmund to Kate's house, where some
friends were awaiting him; and for some days I saw him not again. But
on the next Sunday evening he came to our house, and I noticed a
paleness in him I had not before perceived. I asked him if anything
had disordered him.
"Nothing," he answered; "only methinks my old shaking malady doth
again threaten me; for this morning, walking forth of mine inn to
visit a friend on the other side of the city, and passing by St.
Paul's church, when I was on the east side thereof, I felt suddenly a
strange sensation in my body, so much that my face glowed, and it
seemed to me as if mine hair stood on end; all my joints trembled, and
my whole body was bathed in a cold sweat. I feared some evil was
threatening me, or danger of being taken up, and I looked back to see
if I could perceive any one to be pursuing me; but I saw nobody near,
only a youth in a brown-colored cloak; and so, concluding that some
affection of my head or liver had seized me, I thought no more on it,
but went forward to my intended place to say mass."
A strange thinking came into mine head at that moment, and I doubted
if I should impart to him my sudden fancy.
"Mr. Edmund," I said, unable to refrain myself, "suppose that youth in
the brown cloak should have been your brother!"
He started, but shaking of his head said:
"Nay, nay, why should it have been him rather than a thousand others I
do see every day?"
"Might not that strange effect in yourself betoken the presence of a
kinsman?"
"Tut, tut, Mistress Constance," he cried, half kindly, half
reprovingly; "this should be a wild fancy lacking ground in reason."
Thus checked, I held my peace, but could not wholly discard this
thought. Not long after--on the very morning before Mr. Genings
proposed to depart out of town--I chanced to be walking homeward with
him and some others from a house whither we had gone to hear his mass.
As we were returning along Ludgate Hill, what should he feel but the
same sensations he had done before, and which were indeed visible in
him, for his limbs trembled and his face turned as white as ashes!
"You are sick," I said, for I was walking alongside of him.
"Only affected as that other day," he answered, leaning against a post
for to recover himself.
I had hastily looked back, and, lo and behold I a youth in a brown
cloak was walking some paces behind us. I whispered in Mr. Genings's
ear:
"Look, Edmund; is this the youth you saw before?"
"O my good Lord!" he cried, turning yet more pale, "this is strange
indeed! After all, it may be my brother. Go on," he said quickly; "I
must get speech with him alone to discover if it should be so."
We all walked on, and he tarried behind. Looking back, I saw him
accost the stranger in the brown cloak. And in the afternoon he came
to tell us that this was verily John Genings, as I had with so little
show of reason guessed.
"What passed between you?" I asked.
He said:
"I courteously saluted the young man, and inquired what countryman he
was; and hearing that he was a Staffordshireman, I began to conceive
hopes it should be my brother; so I civilly demanded his name.
Methought I should have betrayed myself at once when he answered
Genings; but as quietly as I could, I told him I was {647} his
kinsman, and was called Ironmonger, and asked him what had become of
his brother Edmund. He then, not suspecting aught, told me he had
heard that he was gone to Rome to the Pope, and was become a notable
papist and a traitor both to God and his country, and that if he did
return he should infallibly be hanged. I smiled, and told him I knew
his brother, and that he was an honest man, and loved both the queen
and his country, and God above all. 'But tell me,' I added, 'good
cousin John, should you not know him if you saw him?' He then looked
hard at me, and led the way into a tavern not far off, and when we
were seated at a table, with no one nigh enough to overhear us, he
said: 'I greatly fear I have a brother that is a priest, and that you
are the man,' and then began to swear that if it was so, I should
discredit myself and all my friends, and protested that in this he
would never follow me; albeit in other matters he might respect me. I
promise you that whilst these harsh words passed his lips I longed to
throw my arms round his neck. I saw my mother's face in his, and his
once childish loveliness only changed into manly beauty. His young
years and mine rose before me, and I could have wept over this
new-found brother as Joseph over his dear Benjamin. I could no longer
conceal myself, but told him truly I was his brother indeed, and for
his love had taken great pains to seek him, and begged of him to keep
secret the knowledge of my arrival; to which he answered: 'He would
not for the world disclose my return, but that he desired me to come
no more unto him, for that he feared greatly the danger of the law,
and to incur the penalty of the statute for concealing of it.' I saw
this was no place or time convenient to talk of religion; but we had
much conversation about divers things, by which I perceived him to be
far from any good affection toward Catholic religion, and persistent
in Protestantism, without any hope of a present recovery. Therefore I
declared unto him my intended departure out of town, and took my
leave, assuring him that within a month or little more I should return
and see him again, and confer with him more at large touching some
necessary affairs which concerned him very much. I inquired of him
where a letter should find him. He showed some reluctance for to give
me any address, but at last said if one was left for him at Lady
Ingoldsby's, in Queen street, Holborn, he should be like to get it."
After Mr. Genings had left, I considered of this direction his brother
had given him, which showed him to be acquainted with Polly's
mother-in-law, and then remembering the young gentleman I had met at
her house, I suspected him to be no other than John Genings. And
called back to mind all his speeches for to compare them with this
suspicion, wherein they did all tally; and some days afterward, when I
was walking on the Mall with Sir Ralph and Polly, who should accost
them but this youth, which they presently introduced to me, and Polly
added, she believed we had played at hide-and-seek together when we
were young. He looked somewhat surprised, and as if casting about for
to call to mind old recollections; then spoke of our meeting at Lady
Ingoldsby's; and she cried out,
"Oh, then, you do know one another?"
"By sight," I said, "not by name."
Some other company joining us, he came alongside of me, and began for
to pay me compliments in the French manner.
"Mr. John Genings," I said, "do you remember Lichfield and the close,
and a little; girl, Constance Sherwood, who used to play with you,
before you went to La Rochelle?"
"Like in a dream," he answered, his comely face lighting up with a
smile.
"But your brother," I said, "was my chiefest companion then; for at
that age we do always aspire to the notice of such as be older than
{648} condescend to such as be younger than ourselves."
When I named his brother a cloud darkened his face, and he abruptly
turned away. He talked to Polly and some other ladies in a gay,
jesting manner, but I could see that ever and anon he glanced toward
me, as if to scan my features, and, I ween, compare them with what
memory depicted; but he kept aloof from me, as if fearing I should
speak again of one he would fain forget.
On the 7th of November, Edmund returned to London, and came in the
evening to Kate's house. He had been laboring in the country,
exhorting, instructing, and exercising his priestly functions amongst
Catholics with all diligence. It so happened that his friend, Mr.
Plasden, a very virtuous priest, which had landed with him at Whitby,
and parted with him soon afterward, was there also; and several other
persons likewise which did usually meet at Mr. Wells's house; but,
owing to that gentleman's absence, who had gone into the country for
some business, and his wife's indisposition, had agreed for to spend
the evening at Mr. Lacy's. Before the company there assembled parted,
the two priests treated with him where they should say mass the
following day, which was the Octave of All Saints. They agreed to say
their matins together, and, by Bryan's advice, to celebrate it at the
house of Mr. Wells, notwithstanding his absence; for that Mistress
Wells, who could not conveniently go abroad, would be exceeding glad
for to hear mass in her own lodging. I told Edmund of my meeting with
his brother on the Mall, and the long talk ministered between us some
weeks ago, when neither did know the other's name. Methought in his
countenance and conversation that night there appeared an unwonted
consolation, a sober joy, which filled me almost with awe. When he
wished me good-night, he added, "I pray you, my dear child, to lift
up your soul to heaven ere yon sleep and when you wake, and recommend
to heaven our good purpose, and then come and attend at the holy
sacrifice with the crowd of angels and saints which do always assist
thereat." When the light faintly dawned in the dull sky, Muriel and I
stole from our beds, quietly dressed ourselves, and slipping out
unseen, repaired as fast as we could, for the ground was wet and
slippery, to Mr. Wells's house. We found assembled in one room Mr.
Genings, Mr. Plasden, another priest, Mr. White, Mr. Lacy, Mistress
Wells, Sydney Hodgson, Mr. Mason, and many others. Edmund Genings
proceeded to say mass. There was so great a stillness in the room a
pin should have been heard to drop. Albeit he said the prayers in a
very low voice, each word was audible. Mine ears, which are very quick
were stretched to the utmost. Each sound in the street caused me an
inward flutter. Methought, when he was reading the gospel I discerned
a sound as of the hall-door opening, and of steps. Then nothing more
for a little while; but just at the moment of the consecration there
was a loud rush up the stairs, and the door of the chamber burst open.
The gentlemen present rose from their knees. Mistress Wells and I
contrariwise sunk on the ground. I dared not for to look, or move, or
breathe, but kept inwardly calling on God, then present, for to save
us. I heard the words behind me: "Topcliffe! keep him back!" "Hurl him
down the stairs!" and then a sound of scuffling, falling, and rolling,
followed by a moment's silence.
The while the mass went forward, ever and anon noises rose without;
but the gentlemen held the door shut by main force all the time. They
kept the foe at bay, these brave men, each word uttered at the altar
resounding, I ween, in their breasts. O my God, what a store of
suffering was heaped into a brief space of time! What a viaticum was
that communion then received by thy doomed priest! {649} "_Domine, non
sum dignus_," he thrice said, and then his Lord rested in his soul.
"_Deo gratias_" None could now profane the sacred mysteries; none
could snatch his Lord from him. "_Ite missa est_." The mass was said,
the hour come, death at hand. All resistance then ceased. I saw
Topcliffe hastening in with a broken head, and threatening to raise
the whole street. Mr. Plasden told him that, now the mass was ended,
we would all yield ourselves prisoners, which we did; upon which he
took Mr. Genings as he was, in his vestments, and all of us, men and
women, in coaches he called for, to Newgate. Muriel and I kept close
together, and, with Mistress Wells, were thrust into one cell.
Methinks we should all have borne with courage this misfortune but for
the thinking of those without--Muriel of her aged and infirm father;
Mistress Wells of her husband's return that day to his sacked house,
robbed of all its church furniture, books, and her the partner of his
whole life. And I thought of Basil, and what he should feel if he knew
of me in this fearful Newgate, near to so many thieves and wicked
persons; and a trembling came over me lest I should be parted from my
companions. I had much to do to recall the courageous spirit I had
heretofore nurtured in foreseeing such a hap as this. If I had had to
die at once, I think I should have been more brave; but terrible
forebodings of examinations--perchance tortures, long solitary hours
in a loathsome place--caused me inward shudderings; and albeit I said
with my lips over and over again, "Thy will be done, my God," I
passionately prayed this chalice might pass from me which often before
in my presumption--I cry mercy for it--I had almost desired to drink.
Oh, often have I thought since of what is said in David's Psalms, "It
is good for me that thou hast humbled me." From my young years a hot
glowing feeling had inflamed my breast at the mention of suffering for
conscience' sake, and the words "to die" had been very familiar ones
to my lips; "rather to die," "gladly to die," "proudly to die;" alas,
how often had I uttered them! O my God, when the foul smells, the
faint light of that dreadful place, struck on my senses, I waxed very
weak. The coarse looks of the jailers, the disgusting food set before
us, the filthy pallets, awoke in me a loathing I could not repress.
And then a fear also, which the sense of my former presumption did
awaken. "Let he that thinketh he standeth take heed lest he fall,"
kept running in mine head. I had said, like St. Peter, that I was
ready for to go to prison and to death; and now, peradventure, I
should betray my Lord if too great pain overtook me. Muriel saw me
wringing mine hands; and, sitting down by my side on the rude
mattress, she tried for to comfort me. Then, in that hour of bitter
anguish, I learnt that creature's full worth. Who should have thought,
who did not then hear her, what stores of superhuman strength, of
heavenly knowledge, of divine comfort, should have flowed from her
lips? Then I perceived the value of a wholly detached heart,
surrendered to God alone. Young as she was, her soul was as calm in
this trial as that of the aged resigned woman which shared it with us.
Mine was tempest-tossed for a while. I could but lie mine head on
Muriel's knee and murmur, "Basil, O Basil!" or else, "If, after all, I
should prove an apostate, which hath so despised others for it!"
"'Tis good to fear," she whispered, "but withal to trust. Is it not
written, mine own Constance, 'My strength is sufficient for thee?' and
who saith this but the Author of all strength--he on whom the whole
world doth rest? He permitteth this fear in thee for humility's sake,
which lesson thou hast need to learn. When that of courage is needed,
be not affrighted; he will give it thee. He bestoweth not graces
before they be needed."
{650}
Then she minded me of little St. Agnes, and related passages of her
life; but mostly spoke of the cross and the passion of Christ, in such
piercing and moving tones, as if visibly beholding the scene on
Calvary, that the storm seemed to subside in my breast as she went on.
"Pray," she gently said, "that, if it be God's will, the extremity of
human suffering should fall on thee, so that thy love for him should
increase. Pray that no human joy may visit thee again, so that heaven
may open its gates to thee and thy loved ones. Pray for Hubert, for
the queen, for Topcliffe, for every human soul which thou hast ever
been tempted to hate; and I promise thee that a great peace shall
steal over thy soul, and a great strength shall lift thee up."
I did what she desired, and her words were prophetic. Peace came
before long, and joy too, of a strange unearthly sort. A brief
foretaste of heaven was showed forth in the consolations then poured
into mine heart. When since I have desired for to rekindle fervor and
awaken devotion, I recall the hours which followed that great anguish
in the cell at Newgate.
Late in the evening an order came for to release Muriel and me, but
not Mrs. Wells. When this dear friend understood what had occurred,
she raised her hands in fervent gratitude to God, and dismissed us
with many blessings.
The events which, followed I will briefly relate. When we reached home
Mr. Congleton was very sick; and then began the illness which ended
his life. Kate was almost wild with grief at her husband's danger, and
we fetched her and her children to her father's house for to watch
over them. On the next day all the prisoners which had been taken at
Mr. Wells's house (we only having been released by the dealings of
friends with the chief secretary) were examined by Justice Young, and
returned to prison to take their trials the next session. Mr. Wells,
at his return finding his house ransacked and his wife carried away to
prison, had been forthwith to Mr. Justice Young for to expostulate
with him, and to demand his wife and the key of his lodgings; but the
justice sent him to bear the rest company, with a pair of iron bolts
on his legs. The next day he examined him in Newgate; and upon Mr.
Wells saying he was not privy to the mass being said that day in his
house, but wished he had been present, thinking his name highly
honored by having so divine a sacrifice offered in it, the justice
told him "that though he was not at the feast, he should taste of the
same."
The evening I returned home from the prison a great lassitude overcame
me, and for a few days increased so much, joined with pains in the
head and in the limbs, that I could scarcely think, or so much as
stand. At last it was discerned that I was sickening with the
small-pox, caught, methinks, in the prison; and this was no small
increase to Muriel's trouble, who had to go to and fro from my chamber
to her father's, and was forced to send Kate and her children to the
country to Sir Ralph Ingoldsby's house; but methinks in the end this
proved for the best, for when Mr. Lacy was, with the other prisoners,
found guilty, and condemned to death on the 4th of December, some for
having said, and the others for having heard, mass at Mr. Wells's
house, Kate came to London but for a few hours, to take leave of him,
and Polly's care of her afterward cheered the one sister in her great
but not very lasting affliction, and sobered the other's spirits in a
beneficial manner, for since she hath been a stayer at home, and very
careful of her children and Kate's also, and, albeit very secretly,
doth I hear practise her religion. Mr. Congleton never heard of his
son-in-law and his friend Mr. Wells's danger, the palsy which affected
him having numbed his senses so that he slowly sunk in his grave
without suffering of body or mind. From Muriel I heard the course of
the trial. How many bitter words and scoffs were used by the {651}
judges and others upon the bench, particularly to Edmund Genings,
because of his youth, and that he angered them with his arguments! The
more to make him a scoff to the people, they vested him in a
ridiculous fool's coat which they had found in Mr. Wells's house, and
would have it to be a vestment. It was appointed they should all die
at Tyburn, except Mr. Genings and Mr. Wells, who were to be executed
before Mr. Wells's own door in Gray's Inn Fields, within three doors
of our own lodging. The judges, we were told, after pronouncing
sentence, began to persuade them to conform to the Protestant
religion, assuring them that by so doing they should obtain mercy, but
otherwise they must certainly expect to die. But they all answered
"that they would live and die in the true Roman and Catholic faith,
which they and all antiquity had ever professed, and that they would
by no means go to the Protestant churches, or for one moment think
that the queen could be head of the Church in spirituals." They dealt
most urgently with Edmund Genings in this matter of conformity, giving
him hopes not only of his life, but also of a good living, it he would
renounce his faith; but he remained, God be praised, constant and
resolute; upon which he was thrust into a dark hole within the prison,
where he remained in prayer, without food or sustenance, till the hour
of his death. Some letters we received from him and Mr. Wells, which
have become revered treasures and almost relics in our eyes. One did
write (this was Edmund): "The comforts which captivity bringeth are so
manifold that I have rather cause to thank God highly for his fatherly
dealings with me than to complain of any worldly misery whatsoever.
Custom hath caused that it is no grief to me to be debarred from
company, desiring nothing more than solitude. When I pray, I talk with
God--when I read, he talketh with me; so that I am never alone." And
much more in that strain. Mr. Wells ended his letter thus: "I am bound
with gyves, yet I am unbound toward God, and far better I account it
to have the body bound than the soul to be in bondage. I am threatened
hard with danger of death; but if it be no worse, I will not wish it
to be better. God send me his grace, and then I weigh not what flesh
and blood can do unto me. I have answered to many curious and
dangerous questions, but I trust with good advisements, not offending
my conscience. What will come of it God only knoweth. Through prison
and chains to glory. Thine till death." This letter was addressed to
Basil, with a desire expressed we should read it before it was sent to
him.
On the day before the one of the execution, Kate came to take leave of
her husband. She could not speak for her tears; but he, with his usual
composure, bade her be of good comfort, and that death was no more to
him than to drink off the caudle which stood there ready on his table.
And methinks this indifferency was a joint effect of nature and of
grace, for none had ever seen him hurried or agitated in his life with
any matter whatsoever. And when he rolled Topcliffe down the stairs
and fell with him--for it was he which did this desperate action--his
face was as composed when he rose up again, one of the servants who
had seen the scuffle said, as if he had never so much as stirred from
his study; and in his last speeches before his death it was noticed
that his utterance was as slow and deliberate, and his words as
carefully picked, as at any other time of his life. Ah me! what days
were those when, hardly recovered from my sickness, only enough for to
sit up in an armed-chair and be carried from one chamber to another,
all the talk ministered about me was of the danger and coming death of
these dear friends. I had a trouble of mine own, which I be truly
ashamed to speak of; but in this narrative I have resolved above all
things to be truthful; and if I have ever had {652} occasion, on the
one hand, to relate what should seem to be to mine own credit, on the
other also I desire to acknowledge my weaknesses and imperfections, of
which what I am about to relate is a notable instance. The small-pox
made me at that time the most deformed person that could be seen, even
after I was recovered; and the first time I beheld my face in a glass,
the horror which it gave me was so great that I resolved Basil should
never be the husband of one whom every person which saw her must needs
be affrighted to look on; but, forecasting he would never give me up
for this reason, howsoever his inclination should rebel against the
kindness of his heart and his true affection for me, I hastily sent
him a letter, in which I said I could give him no cause for the change
which had happened in me, but that I was resolved not to marry him,
acting in my old hasty manner, without thought or prudence. No sooner
had I done so than I grew very uneasy thereat, too late reflecting on
what his suspicions should be of my inconstancy, and what should to
him appear faithless breach of promise.
It grieved me, in the midst of such grave events and noble sufferings,
to be so concerned for mine own trouble; and on the day before the
execution I was sitting musing painfully on the tragedy which was to
be enacted at our own doors as it were, weeping for the dear friends
which were to suffer, and ever and anon chewing the cud of my wilful
undoing of mine own, and it might prove of Basil's, future peace by my
rash letter to him, and yet more rash concealment of my motives.
Whilst I was thus plunged in grief and uneasiness, the door of my
chamber of a sudden opened, and the servant announced Mr. Hubert
Rookwood. I hid my face hastily with a veil, which I now did generally
use, except when alone with Muriel. He came in, and methought a change
had happened in his appearance. He looked somewhat wild and
disordered, and his face flushed as one used to drinking.
"Constance," he said abruptly, "tidings have reached me which would
not suffer me to put off this visit. A man coming from France hath
brought me a letter from Basil, and one directed to you, which he
charged me to deliver into your hands. If it tallies with that which
he doth write to me--and I doubt not it must be so, for his dealings
are always open and honorable, albeit often rash--I must needs hope
for so much happiness from it as I can scarce credit to be possible
after so much suffering."
I stretched out mine hand for Basil's letter. Oh, how the tears gushed
from mine eyes on the reading of it! He had received mine, and having
heard some time before from a friend he did not name of his brother's
passion for me, he never misdoubted but that I had at last yielded to
his solicitations, and given him the love which I withdrew from him.
Never was the nobleness of his nature more evinced than in this
letter; never grief more heartfelt, combined with a more patient
endurance of the overthrow of his sole earthly happiness; never a
greater or more forgiving kindness toward a faithless creature, as he
deemed her, with a lingering care for her weal, whom he must needs
have thought so ill deserving of his love. So much sorrow without
repining, such strict charges not to marry Hubert if he was not a good
Catholic and truly reconciled to the Church. But if he was indeed
changed in this respect, an assent given to this marriage which had
cost him, he said, many tears and many prayers for to write, more than
if with his own heart's blood he had traced the words; but which,
nevertheless, he freely gave, and prayed God to bless us both, if with
a good conscience we could be wedded; and God forbid he should hinder
it, if I had ceased for to love him, and had given to Hubert--who had
already got his birthright--also a more precious treasure, the heart
once his own.
{653}
"What doth your brother write to you?" I coldly said; and then Hubert
gave me his letter to read.
Methinks he imagined I concealed my face from some sort of shame; and
God knoweth, had I acted the part he supposed, I might well have
blushed deeper than can be thought of.
This letter was like unto the other--the most touching proof of love
a man could give for a woman. Forgetting himself, my dearest Basil's
only care was my happiness; and firm remonstrances were blended with
touching injunctions to his brother to treasure every hair of the head
of one who was dearer to him than all the world beside, and to do his
duty to God and to her, which if he observed, he should, mindless of
all else, for ever bless him.
When I returned the missive to him, Hubert said, in a faltering voice,
"Now you are free--free to be mine--free before God and man."
"Yea," I answered; "free as the dead, for I am henceforward dead to
all earthly things."
"What!" he cried, startled; "your thinking is not, God shield it, to
be a nun abroad?"
"Nay," I answered; and then, laying my hand on Basil's letter, I said,
"If I had thought to marry you, Hubert; if at this hour I should say I
could love you, I ween you would leave the house affrighted, and never
return to it again."
"Is your brain turned?" he impatiently cried.
"No," I answered quietly, lifting my veil, "my face only is changed."
I had a sort of bitter pleasure in the sight of his surprise. He
turned as pale as any smock.
"Oh, fear not," I said; "my heart hath not changed with my face. I am
not in so merry a mood, God knoweth, as to torment you with any such
apprehensions. My love for Basil is the same; yea, rather at this
hour, after these noble proofs of his love, more great than ever. Now
you can discern why I should write to him I would never marry him."
Hiding his face in his hands, Hubert said, "Would I had not come here
to embitter your pain?"
"You have not added to my sorrow," I answered; "the chalice is indeed
full, but these letters have rather lightened than increased my
sufferings."
Then concealing again my face, I went on, "O Hubert, will you come
here to-morrow morning? Know you the sight which from that window
shall be seen? Hark to that noise! Look out, I pray you, and tell me
what it is."
He did as I bade him, and I marked the shudder he gave. His face, pale
before, had now turned of an ashy hue.
"Is it possible?" he said; "a scaffold in front of that house where we
were wont to meet those old friends! O Constance, are they there to
die?--that brave joyous old man, that kind pious soul his wife?"
"Yea," I answered; "and likewise the friend of my young years, good
holy Edmund Genings, who never did hurt a fly, much less a human
creature. And at Tyburn, Bryan Lacy, my cousin, once your friend, and
Sydney Hodgson, and good Mr. Mason, are to suffer."
Hubert clenched his hands, ground his teeth, and a terrible look shot
through his eyes. I felt affrighted at the passion my words had
awakened.
"Cursed," he cried, in a hoarse voice,--"cursed be the bloody queen
which reigneth in this land! Thrice accursed be the tyrants which hunt
us to death! Tenfold accursed such as lure us to damnation by the foul
baits they do offer to tempt a man to lie to God and to others, to
ruin those he loves, to become loathsome to himself by his mean
crimes! But if one hath been cheated of his soul, robbed of the hope
of heaven, debarred from his religion, thrust into the company of
devils, let them fear him, yea, let them fear him, I say. Revenge is
not impossible. What shall stay the {654} hand of such a man? What
shall guard those impious tempters if many such should one day league
for to sweep them from earth's face? If one be desperate of this
world's life, he becomes terrible. How should he be to be dreaded who
doth despair of heaven!"
With these wild words, he left me. He was gone ere I could speak.
TO BE CONTINUED.
------
From Chambers's Journal.
RESIGNED.
When my weary spinning's done,
And the shades of eve grow deep,
And by the bright hearthstone
The old folk sit asleep;
My heart and I in secret talk, when none can see me weep.
Ofttimes the driving rain,
And sometimes the silent snow,
Beat on the window-pane,
And mingle sad and low
With the hopes and fears, the smiles and tears, of a time long, long ago;
Till they act the tales they tell,
And a step is on the floor,
And a voice I once loved well
Says: "Open me the door."
Then I turn with a chill from the mocking wind, which whispers "Nevermore!"---
To the little whitewashed room
In which my days are spent;
And, journeying toward the tomb,
My companions gray and bent.
Who haply deem their grandchild's life not joyous, but content.
Ah me! for the suns not set,
For the years not yet begun,
For the days not numbered yet,
And the work that must be done,
Before the desert path is crossed, and the weary web is spun!
Like a beacon in the night,
I see my first grey hair;
And I scarce can tell aright
If it is from age or care,
For time glides silent o'er my life, and leaves no landmark there.
But perchance 'tis for the best.
And I must harder strive,
If life is little blest.
Then not for life to live.
For though a heart has nought to take, it may have much to give.
{655}
And they are old and poor.
And bread is hard to win.
And a guest is at the door
Who soon must enter in,
And to keep his shadow from their hearth, I daily toil and spin.
My sorrow is their gain,
And I show not by a tear
How my solitude and pain
Have bought their comfort dear.
For the storm which wrecked my life's best hope has left me stranded here.
But I hear the neighbors say,
That the hour-glass runs too fast,
And I know that in that glad day,
When toil and sorrow are past,
The false and true shall receive their due, and hearts cease aching at last.
------
From The Month.
SAINTS OF THE DESERT.
BY THE REV. J. H. NEWMAN. D.D.
1. A sportsman fell in with Abbot Antony, when pleasantly conversing
with his brethren, and was scandalized.
The old man said: "Put an arrow on the string, and bend your bow." He
did so.
Then Antony said: "Bend it more;" and he bent it more.
Antony said: "More still." He answered: "I shall break it."
Then said Antony: "This will befal the brethren, if their minds are
always on the stretch."
2. It is told of Abbot Arsenius, how he was used to remain all night
without sleep.
Then, when morning broke, and he needed rest, he used to say to sleep:
Come, you good-for-nothing.
Then he took a nap, as he sat; and soon woke up again.
3. A brother said to Abbot Theodore, "Say some good word to me, for I
am perishing."
He answered: I am in jeopardy myself, and what can I say to _thee?_
4. A brother said to Abbot Pastor: "I have done a great sin; give me a
three years' penance." The abbot answered; "It is too much."
The brother said, "Give me a year." The old man said again, "It is too
much."
The brothers round him asked, "Should it be forty days?" Still he
answered, "It is too much."
For, said he, whoso doth penance with his whole heart, and never does
the sin again, is received by God even on the penance of three days.
5. A brother had sinned, and the priest bade him leave the church.
Bessarion rose, and went out with him, saying: And I too am a sinner.
6. Abbott Macarius said: Never chide an erring brother angrily; for
you are not bid save another's soul at the loss of your own.
7. Abbot Nilus said: If you would pray as you ought, beware of
sadness; else you will run in vain.
------
{656}
From All The Year Round.
UP AND DOWN CANTON.
Canton is a genuine Chinese city, and one of the most extraordinary
places in the world. There are four American steamers which ply
between Hong-Kong and Canton. They are fast commodious vessels, in
fact floating hotels, such as ply on the large American rivers. The
voyage occupies about eight or nine hours. Of these, five or six are
on the open sea, sheltered mostly under the lee of precipitous bluffs
and lofty rocky islets; and the rest, from the "Bocca Tigris," up the
Canton river. The fog in the winter season lies so dense over the
flats and extensive swamps bordering the river that steamers have to
proceed with great caution, going "dead slow," and sounding the
steam-whistle, while the little fishing-junks, which are sure to be
scattered by dozens in the way, eagerly beat their gongs, to make
known their whereabout. As the steamer ascends the river, a noble
stream, some five or six miles broad near the mouth, she gets
gradually clear of the fog. The wide marshy flats, and the bold rocks
on the left bank, crowned with odd-looking Chinese stone batteries,
come into view, to be succeeded by paddy-fields, sugar-cane
cultivation, orchards, gardens, roads, and villages, that become, on
both banks, more and more numerous, until they blend with the vast
suburbs of Canton. Charming little pagodas, and fanciful buildings,
painted and carved, the residences of mandarins, peep from the shades
of groves, and every village is surmounted by two or more lofty square
towers, the nature of which puzzles a stranger, until he is told they
are pawnbrokers shops. These shops are so fashioned for the greater
security of the articles pledged, because the broker is made heavily
responsible for their safe-keeping. The security is meant to be not
only against thieves, but also against fire. Half-way to Canton, on
the right, or west bank, is a little English settlement at the town of
Whampo. It consists of some ship-chandlers' stores, warehouses, and a
dock for repairing vessels which discharge their cargoes here, being
unable to proceed higher up the stream. Whampo is, in fact, the
seaport of Canton, and was a flourishing place as such till Hong-Kong
diverted the trade. From Whampo upward, the river becomes more and
more crowded with junks and Chinese boats. Some of the junks,
men-of-war, differ from the rest only in being larger, and in having
several unwieldy guns on their decks, mounted on uncouth carriages: in
many instances with their muzzles not pointed through portholes, but
grinning over the bulwarks at an angle of forty-five degrees, like
huge empty bottles.
When the steamer has slowly and cautiously threaded her way among
these numerous vessels, and dropped anchor, the rush of "tanka-boats"
round her is astonishing. These are broad bluff crafts, something of
the size and shape of the sampans, but impelled chiefly by women; one
sweeping, the other sculling with a large steering oar. They close
round the ship in hundreds, yelling, screaming, struggling, and
fighting for the gangways, till every passenger or article of light
freight has left. The women are warmly and comfortably dressed in
dark-blue linen shirts and wide drawers, with red and yellow bandanas
round their heads and faces. They are often young and good-looking,
with bright laughing eyes, white {657} teeth, and jolly red cheeks.
They are, unlike the "flower-boat" girls, honest and well conducted.
Their boats are roofed over, with snug neat cabins nicely painted, and
bedizened with flowers, old-fashioned pictures, and looking-glasses. A
low cushioned bench runs round three sides, and the passenger sits
down pleasantly enough, looking through the entrance, and face to face
with the sturdy nymph, who, with a "stamp and go," is rowing him
along, while at the stern, behind his back, another lusty Naiad steers
him on his way.
The river divides the great city into two parts; that on the left
bank, which is by far the larger, being Canton, and the opposite
smaller town "Honan." On the Honan side, a few European gentlemen
still live and carry on business, as branches of several firms in
Hong-Kong; but the principal European quarter is a fine level plain on
the Canton side, presenting to the river a revetted wall. A pretty
church and some handsome houses, including the British consulate, have
been already completed within the land, which is called the "Shámeen."
It adjoins the portion formerly allotted for the Hongs, or warehouses
and offices of foreign (European) merchants, which were burnt down by
the Chinese mob before the last war.
At ten in the morning, one day in the month of February, I started
from the Honan side, under the guidance of a Chinese cicerone, who
spoke a language somewhat better than the gibberish known by the name
of "pigeon" (business) English, to explore the city of Canton. We
crossed the river in a tanka-boat, and after threading, jostling, and
pushing our way through swarms of small craft in every variety, landed
at the custom-house stairs, close to a small office in which presides
an English functionary, in the pay of the Chinese government. The
strand is crowded with mean dirty hovels, in which, and about the
muddy road, and on board innumerable boats, packed closely along the
bank, men, women, and children, filthy and ragged, were crowding in
swarms. We passed a short way up the strand, by some large shops,
crammed with clothing and ship chandlery, and, striking inland,
traversed an open space, scattered with the relics of the European
Hongs burnt before the last war (a space, by-the-by, which Europeans
have altogether deserted, preferring the "Shámeen" land, and which the
Chinese government appear unwilling to resume, so that it remains
altogether untenanted). We then entered the bazaar, or strictly
commercial portions of the town.
The day was unusually sultry for the time of year; the streets (so to
call passages of six or seven feet width), entirely paved with
flag-stones, were muddy and greasy from rain that had fallen the day
before. The air was stagnant from the confinement of closely packed
and overhanging houses, and heated by swarms of people hurrying to and
fro, while an insupportable stench from sewers, neglected drains, and
putrid fish and flesh, with a horrible odor of stale cabbage water,
pervaded the suffocating atmosphere. I became faint at times, fatigued
and heated beyond endurance, so that my estimate of the extent of this
enormous labyrinth through which I plodded for four hours before I
could get a sedan-chair, is one rather, of the feelings than of the
judgment I walked--stepping now and then into shops, to examine them
more closely--and rode in a sedan-chair up one street and down
another, from about half-past ten in the morning until four in the
afternoon, and had to leave unvisited about half the bazaar, to get a
hasty glimpse of a few temples, gardens, and mandarin-houses before
dusk.
The streets are flagged, and about six or seven feet broad. They
appear to be innumerable, crossing each other at right angles at every
two or three hundred yards. The houses {658} on each side are
narrow-fronted, but extending considerably to the rear. There are no
windows, for the centre of each front is, open, merely consisting of
carved and painted framework, like the proscenium of a theatre, and
displaying the contents of the shop on each hand, like side scenes.
The back is closed by a large panelling, in which figures of gods,
men, animals, and flowers are painted, with a vast deal of gilding and
finery. In short, each shop looks like a little theatre. A few houses
have upper stories, reached by pretty carved and balustraded stairs.
And as every article for which space can be found is hung up for
display, both inside the shop and around its front, the spectator, as
he enters the bazaar, feels as if he were diving into an ocean of
cloths, silks, flags, and flutters.
My guide was a sharp fellow, who thoroughly knew all the sights of
Canton. As he had been often employed as cicerone by the ship
captains, he immediately put me down as one of that jolly fraternity,
frequent intercourse with whom had given a slightly nautical twang to
his discourse. We had not gone far before he addressed me, "I say,
cappen: you come along o' me and see jewelers' shops. Here's
first-rate shop--number one jeweler this chap--cappen want to buy
anything? Heave along!" The jewelers' shops were numerous, and I saw
many very beautiful specimens of carving and filigree-work. Some of
the shops sold articles of European design, others ministered only to
the native beauty and fashion of Canton. These contained many articles
of considerable beauty and real taste. The most notable were the
"bird's feather ornaments," which consist of gold or gilt head combs,
brooches, ear-rings, and the like, on which are firmly fixed, with
glue, strips of the bright blue feathers of the kingfisher (Halcyon
Smyrnensis), cut into small patterns, through which the gold ground
appears; the whole effect being exactly like that of enamel work. The
kingfisher is not, I think, found in China, but is imported in great
numbers from Burmah and India. I asked the price of one skin lying on
the counter, and was told half a dollar (two shillings and
threepence). The bird was probably procured in India for
three-halfpence. Ivory shops are in great number, but the Chinese
ivory yields, in my opinion, to that of the Japanese. I went into
several porcelain shops, and saw in each ten or a dozen
languid-looking youths painting away, slowly and laboriously, at
leaves, flowers, insects, and so forth, on plates. Each lad had a
small bowl of one color, and when he had painted in all the parts of
the design intended to be of that color, he passed the plate on to his
neighbor, who added his color, and so on all round the room till the
pattern was completely colored. The result is stiff and mechanical.
There is no attempt at artistic effect, nothing like the beautiful
pictures painted in the factories at Worcester or Dresden. Dyers and
weavers are numerous. The silk shops are the finest in the bazaar, but
their contents are excessively dear, and are not very good. Indeed,
the Canton silks are considered by the Chinese themselves to be,
inferior to those made in the northern provinces of the empire. I have
seen silk dresses and pieces from Pekin brought into India via Nepaul,
of a quality which I was assured by a competent judge could not be
procured at Canton. This was five-and-twenty years ago, and it is
possible that our present widely different connection with China may
have introduced a better article into Shanghae, which is so near
Pekin. But the Chinese were very jealous formerly about exporting
their finest silks, and those I allude to were brought by the members
of a mission, sent every three years with a tribute from Kathmandoo to
the Emperor of China, as a friendly return present from the emperor to
the Rajah of Nepaul.
{659}
The Chinese shopkeepers are fat comfortable-looking fellows, with
pleasant, good-humored faces. They showed me their curiosities very
willingly, and none the less courteously exchanged a smiling
"chin-chin" with me if I left the shop without purchasing anything.
Tea-shops are numberless. They are piled up with chests such as we see
in England, and with open baskets of coarse and inferior tea for the
poor. The cheapest kind is made in thin round cakes or large wafers,
strung upon slips of bamboo. It partially dissolves in hot water, and
is flavored with salt by those who drink it. Of this form of brick tea
I have never seen any mention in the books published by travellers.
There are poulterers' shops, with fowls roasted and raw; and there are
vegetable sellers' stalls, and fish in baskets, dead and not
over-fresh, or alive in large tubs of water. They were all of the carp
family, including réhos, mïrgals, and kutlas, so familiarly known in
India, also several species of the siluroids, called vulgarly
"catfish." The fish brought from the sea are salted and sun-dried,
and, with strong aid from immense festoons of sharks' fins, set up a
stench that it is not easy to walk through.
After inspecting shops and elbowing and being elbowed in the crowd
till afternoon, when I was ready to drop with heat and fatigue, my
pilot steered me to a small square, flagged with stone, on which the
sun shone fiercely. He called it "Beggars' square," and told me that
all the destitute and abandoned sick in the city crawled, if they
could, to this spot, because those who died there received burial at
the expense of government. While he spoke, my eyes were fixed upon
some heaps of dirty tattered clothes on the ground, which presently
began to move, and I discovered to my horror three miserable
creatures, lean and covered with odious filth, lying in different
stages of their last agony on the bare stones, exposed to the burning
rays of the sun. They came here to die, and no one heeded them, or
gave them a drop of water, or a morsel of food, or even a little
shelter from the noontide glare. I had seen shocking things of this
sort in India, but nothing so horrible. To insure a climax of
disgusts, my guide led me straight to a dog butcher's shop, where
several of the nasty fat oily carcases of those animals were hanging
for sale. They had not been flayed, but dangled there with their
smooth shining skins, which had been scalded and scraped clean of
hair, so that at first I took them for sucking-pigs. There were joints
of dog, ready roasted, on the counter, and in the back of the shop
were several cages in which live dogs were quietly sitting, lolling
their tongues out, and appearing very unconcerned. I saw several cats
also, in cages, looking very demure; and moreover I saw customers,
decorous and substantial-looking householders, inspect and feel the
dogs and cats, and buy those which they deemed fittest for the table.
The cats did not like being handled, and mewed loudly. "What cappen
think o' that?" said my guide. "Cappen s'pose never eat dog?--dog very
good, very fat, very soft. Oh, number one dinner is dog!" "And are
cats as good?" I asked. "Oh, Chinaman chowchow everything. Chowchow
plenty cat. Chinaman nasty beast, I think, cappen, eh?" My cicerone
had been so long mixed up with European and American ship captains and
missionaries, that he had learnt to suit his ideas to his company, if
his ideas had not actually undergone great modification, as is the
case in India with those educated natives of the present day known to
us as specimens of "Young Bengal."
Before quitting the bazaar, I was ushered into two gambling-shops.
These are licensed by the Chinese government, the owners paying a
considerable tax. Both were tolerably full of players, and in both the
same kind of game was being played--a simple one enough, if I
understood it. {660} A player staked a pile of cash or dollars; the
croupier staked a similar one; and then another member of the
establishment dipped his hand into a bag and drew out a handful of
counters; if they were in even fours, the bank won; if they were
uneven, the player won, and the croupier's stake was duly handed over
to him--rather ruefully, it struck me, by the banker, who sat on the
counter raised above the rest. This game appears about as
intrinsically entertaining as pulling straws; but I may have
overlooked or misunderstood parts of it of a more intellectual nature.
In the first house I visited, the players were of the lower class, and
the stakes were copper cash. One man, quite a youth, left the room
evidently cleaned out; his look revealed it, and I suppose he went
away to the opium shop, the usual consolation of a Chinaman under the
circumstances. As we entered the second gambling-house, my guide
informed me, "This rich house. Number one fellow play here--mandarin
chap." And truly I saw in the room goodly piles of dollars heaped up
before a better-dressed assembly. The game appeared to be the same,
and money changed hands rapidly. I "chin-chinned" to the banker and to
the company, and was civilly allowed to look on. The room led through
a filigreed doorway to another apartment, where cakes, loaves, tea,
and pipes were spread out, and where long-tailed gentlemen were
lounging and discussing the news of the day.
Being in want of cash, and having only dollar notes with me, I asked
my guide what I should do? He straightway led me to a money-changer's,
where I was at once furnished with change for my notes at par. As this
was an unusual accommodation, I asked the reason of such generosity,
and was informed that the dollars given me were all light, and that
the changer would obtain full-weight dollars for the notes by-and-by.
I was assured, however, that in all the shops the dollars I had
received would be received at the full value; and this I found to be
the case. All the time I was in the money-changer's, I saw three or
four people telling, examining, and stamping dollars. So defaced and
mutilated does the coin become by bearing the "chop" or mark of every
banker or dealer into whose possession it passes, that it as nearly as
possible returns to that state of bullion which the Chinaman prefers
to minted coin. As it was, the only small change I could procure for a
dollar was in fragments of silver; in the weighing out of which I was
of course at the mercy of the shopman.
A chair having been with great difficulty procured for me, and another
for my guide, we were about emerging from the bazaar when I had the
honor of meeting a mandarin and suite. My bearers had just time to
squeeze into the entrance of a side-alley, when the cavalcade was down
upon us. Funny-looking soldiers with spears and muskets
indiscriminately, musicians and drummers or tom-tom beaters, and an
amazing figure in red and gold apparel of a loose flapping cut, with a
sword in his hand, mounted upon an inexcusable pony--a Chinese
Rosinante. In the centre of this cortege the mandarin was borne along,
a placid fat dignitary, in a richly embroidered purple velvet and
golden dress, seated in a gaudy sedan.
It was a great relief to emerge from the crowded bazaar, pass through
the gateway in the massive city wall, and proceed through
comparatively airy lanes to one or two Chinese gentlemen's houses and
gardens, which my guide most unceremoniously entered, marshalling me
in without a word of introduction or apology, and making me feel
rather ashamed of myself. These dwellings, as well as the joss-houses
or temples, have been so often described, that I will not inflict them
again on the reader. Not the slightest objection was raised by the
priests to my exploring every part of the temples, the vergers showing
the altars, the various images, the cloisters {661} and refectories,
with great alacrity, and extending their hands afterward for a fee.
The only undescribed fact connected with these worthies which I was
informed of is, that they sell their finger-nails to any foreigner
desirous of purchasing such curiosities. These nails are suffered to
grow uncut, and attain a length of three or four inches, looking
remarkably unlike finger-nails, and forming curiosities much coveted,
said my guide, by foreign gentlemen and "cappens." Among other
religious edifices I visited a Mohammedan temple, a singular jumble of
Islamism and Buddhism. Extracts from the Koran wore an odd appearance
emblazoned on Chinese architecture. There were no priests visible
here; only children and begging old women.
Want of time prevented my visiting the camp or barracks of the Chinese
soldiers, on the heights outside the eastern suburbs of the town. A
large garden, attached to a temple on the Honan side, was the only
other object I had time that day to inspect. The garden was
principally stocked with orange-trees, also loquats and lychees,
hundreds of which were on sale for the benefit of the good fathers,
who are supported by the produce of the garden and the contributions
of the piously disposed. On each side of the centre walk, beyond a
little dirty pond, was a shed, with shelves, on which were ranged pots
containing the ashes of the priests ("priests' bones," my guide
irreverently called them); their bodies, after decease, undergoing
incremation in an adjoining pit. Names, ages, and dates of decease are
duly preserved, cut into slabs of stone on the concave face of a
semicircular screen of masonry in the garden. Before leaving the
garden I was not a little surprised by the appearance of a veritable
magpie, identical, as it seemed to me, with our British bird, that I
had not seen for many years.
After guiding me safely to my quarters--for so labyrinthine is every
part of Canton and Honan that it would be hopeless to attempt to find
one's way alone--my pilot left me and departed to his own home, which
was, he told me, on the Canton side. The language he spoke is, as may
be gathered from the specimens here given, not the ordinary "pigeon
English" of Chinese servants; a style of gibberish which it is
lamentable to think has become the ordinary channel of communication
with all Chinamen. These sharp and intelligent people would soon learn
to speak and understand better English than such sentences has "You go
top-side and catchee one piecee book"--"You tell those two piecee
cooly go chow-chow, and come back chop-chop." (Go up-stairs and fetch
a book--Tell those two coolies to go to their dinner, and return
quickly.) The good effects of the tuition afforded by schoolmasters
and missionaries in China are much marred by the jargon used
conventionally, with irrational adherence to defect, in all ordinary
transactions of business, by masters and mistresses in intercourse
with their servants, and by commercial men with their native
assistants.
About seven hours' run, in one of the American steamers before
mentioned, carries the passenger from Canton to Macao. The mouth of
the river is cleared in four hours, and the rest of the voyage is over
an open sea, which, with a fresh southerly breeze, is rather rough for
a flat-bottomed steamer: the islands to eastward, though numerous,
being too remote to check the swell of the Chinese ocean. After
running for about an hour along the bold rocky peninsula at the point
of which Macao is built, the steamer rounds in, and, entering a
partially land-locked harbor between the town and some rocky islets to
its south, anchors in smooth water. The town has a quaint picturesque
look. Its old-fashioned houses extend to the water's edge. They are
all of stone or brick, covering the face of the bold coast: the
heights of which are crowned by castles, forts, batteries, and
convents, and from whose ancient walls the last rays of a setting sun
were fading as we entered the harbor. The {662} inhabitants are
entirely Portuguese, Chinese, and a breed between the two. The
jealousy of the Portuguese government effectually excludes foreigners
from settling; a miserable policy, by which trade is almost extinct,
the revenue being derived chiefly from licensing of gambling-houses.
In front of the house of the governor I saw a guard of soldiers. They
wore able-bodied, smart-looking young fellows in neat blue uniforms,
detailed from a regiment in the fort. These soldiers, and a few
half-castes, looking like our office keranies in India, together with
some strangely dressed females, in appearance half aya, half sister of
charity, were all that I saw of the Portuguese community. The
non-military Portuguese looked jaded and lazy, almost every man with a
cheroot in his mouth. The town, indeed, struck me as a very "Castle of
Indolence."
------
Abridged from The Dublin University Magazine.
GLASTONBURY ABBEY, PAST AND PRESENT.
One of the most subtle operations of time is the tendency it has to
transform the facts of one age into the phantasies of another, and to
cause the dreams of the past to become the realities of the present.
Far away in the remote distance of history, when a lonely monk in his
cell mused of vessels going without sails and carriages without
horses, it was a dream--a mere dream, produced probably by a brain
disordered by over study, long vigils, and frequent fasts, but that
dream of the thirteenth century has become the most incontrovertible
fact of the nineteenth, a fact to whose influence all other hitherto
immovable facts are giving way, even the great one, the impregnability
of the Englishman's castle; for we find that before the obstinate
march of one of these railway facts a thousand Englishmen's castles
fall prostrate, and a thousand Englishmen are evicted, their
avocations broken up, and themselves turned out upon the world as a
new order of beings--outcasts with compensation.
The monastic life, so commonly regarded in these later times as a
phantasy, was once a fact, a great universal fact; it was a fact for
twelve or thirteen centuries; and when we remember that it extended
its influence from the sunny heights of Palestine, across Europe, to
the wild, bleak shores of western Ireland; that it did more in the
world for the formation and embellishment of modern civilization than
all the governments and systems of life the accompanied it in its
course; that the best portions of ancient literature, the materials of
history, the secrets of art, are the pearls torn from its
treasure-house, we may form some idea of what a fact the monastic life
must have been at one time, and may venture to assert that the history
of that phase of existence, as in frock and cowl it prayed, and
watched, and fasted; as in its quiet cloisters it studied, and copied,
and labored; as outside its walls it mingled its influence with the
web of human destiny, and as in process of time, becoming wealthy and
powerful, it degenerated, and went the way of all human things--we say
that the history of the development of this extinct world, however
defective the execution of that history may be, will include in its
review some of the most interesting portions of our national career,
will furnish a clue to many of the mazes of historical speculation, or
at least may be suggestive {663} to some more able intellect of a
course of investigation which has been very little followed, and a
mine of truth which to a great extent still remains intact.
At a time when laws were badly administered, and the country often
torn by internal contentions, and always subject to the violence of
marauders, it was absolutely necessary that there should be some
asylum for those thoughtful, retiring spirits who, unable or unwilling
to take part in the turmoil of the times, were exposed to all its
dangerous vicissitudes. In an age, too, when the country possessed no
literature, the contemplative and the learned had no other means of
existence than by retiring to the cloister, safe out of the reach of
the jealous superstition of ignorance and the wanton barbarity of
uncouth violence. The monastery then was the natural home of these
beings--the deserted, the oppressed, the meek spirit who had been
beaten in the world's conflict, the untimely born son of genius, the
scholar, the devotee, all found a safe shelter and a genial abode
behind the friendly walls of these cities of refuge. There, too, lay
garnered up, as a priceless hoarding for future ages, the sacred
oracles of Christianity, and the rescued treasures of ancient lore;
there science labored at her mystic problems; and there poetry,
painting, and music were developed and perpetuated; in fine, all that
the world holds as most excellent, all that goes toward the foundation
and adornment of modern society, treasured up in the monastery as in
an ark, rode in safety over the dark flood of that mediaeval deluge
until the waters subsided, and a new world appearing from its depths,
violent hands were laid upon those costly treasures, which were torn
from their hiding-places and freely scattered abroad, whilst the
representatives of those men who, in silence and with prayer, had
amassed and cherished them, were branded as useless idlers, their
homes broken up, and themselves dispersed, with no mercy for their
errors and no gratitude for their labors, to seek the scanty charities
of a hostile world. Beside being the cradle of art and science, the
monastery was a great and most efficient engine for the dispensation
of public charity. At its refectory kitchen the poor were always
cheerfully welcomed, generously treated, and periodically relieved; in
fine, the care of the poor was not only regarded as a solemn duty, but
was undertaken with the most cheerful devotion and the most
unremitting zeal. They were not treated like an unsightly social
disease, which was to be cured if possible, but at any rate kept out
of sight; they were not handed over to the tender sympathies of paid
relieving officers, nor dealt with by the merciless laws of
statistics, but they were treated gently and kindly in the spirit of
the Great Master, who when on earth bestowed upon them the larger
share of his sympathy, who, in the tenderness of his pity, dignified
poverty and sanctified charity when he declared that "inasmuch as ye
have done it unto the least of these my brethren, ye have done it unto
me." Whatever may have been the vices of the monastic system or the
errors of its ritual, its untiring charity was its great redeeming
virtue.
It will not perhaps be an unfitting introduction to our investigation
into the rise and influence of this system upon our national life if
we resuscitate from the grave of the past one of these great
monasteries, the oldest and most powerful which sprang up in our
country, and which, compared with others at the time when they fell
before the great religious convulsion of the sixteenth century, had,
in the midst of general corruption, maintained its purity, and
suffered less from its own vices than from the degeneracy of the
system to which it belonged, and of which it was the most
distinguished ornament. We shall endeavor to portray the monastery as
it was in all its glory, to pass through its portals, to enter
reverently {664} into its magnificent church, to listen to its
gorgeous music, to watch its processions, to wander through its
cloisters, to visit its domestic domains, to penetrate into the
mysteries of its refectory, the ascetic simplicity of its dormitory,
the industry of its schoolhouse and fratery, the stores of its
treasury, the still richer stores of its library, the immortal labors
of its Scriptorium, where they worked for so many centuries, uncheered
and unrewarded, for a thankless posterity, who shrink even now from
doing them justice; we shall visit the gloomy splendors of its crypt,
wander through its grounds, and marvel at its strange magnificence.
After having thus gazed, as it were, upon the machine itself in
motion, we shall perhaps be the better enabled subsequently to
comprehend the nature and value of its work.
In the early part of the sixteenth century the ancient abbey of
Glastonbury was in the plenitude of its magnificence and power. It had
been the cynosure for the devotees of all nations, who, for nearly
eleven centuries, flocked in crowds to its fane--to worship at its
altars, to venerate its relics, to drink in health at its sacred well,
and to gaze in rapt wonder at its holy thorn. And even now, in these
later days, though time has wasted it, though fierce fanaticism has
played its cannon upon it, though ruthless vandalism in blind
ignorance has despoiled many of its beauties, it still stands proud in
its ruined grandeur, defiant alike of the ravages of decay, the
devastation of the iconoclast, and the wantonness of the ignorant.
Although not a single picture, but only an inventorial description, is
extant of this largest abbey in the kingdom, yet, standing amidst its
silent ruins, the imagination can form some faint idea of what it must
have been when its aisles were vocal with the chant of its many-voiced
choir, when gorgeous processions moved grandly through its cloisters,
and when its altars, its chapels, its windows, its pillars, were all
decorated with the myriad splendors of monastic art. Passing in at the
great western entrance, through a lodge kept by a grave lay-brother,
we find ourselves in a little world, shut up by a high wall which
swept round its domains, inclosing an area of more than sixty acres.
The eye is arrested at once by a majestic pile of building, stretching
itself out in the shape of an immense cross, from the centre of whose
transept there rises a high tower. The exterior of this building is
profusely decorated with all the weird embellishments of medieval art.
There, in sculptured niche, stands the devout monarch, sceptred and
crowned; the templar knight, who had fallen under an oriental sun
fighting for the cross; the mitred abbot, with his crosier; the saint
with his emblem; the martyr with his palm; scenes from Sacred Writ;
the apostles, the evangelists; petrified allegories and sculptured
story; and then, clustering around and intertwining itself with all
these scenes and representations of the world of man, were ornamental
devices culled from the world of nature. A splendid monument of the
genius of those mediaeval times whose mighty cathedrals stand before
us now like massive poems or graven history, where men may read, as it
were from a sculptured page, the chivalrous doings of departed heroes,
the long tale of the history of the Church--of her woes, her triumphs,
her martyrs, and her saints--a deathless picture of actual existence,
as though some heaven-sent spirit had come upon the earth, and with a
magic stroke petrified into the graphic stillness of stone a whole
world of life and living things. The length of the nave of this
church, beginning from St. Joseph's chapel (which we shall presently
notice, and which was an additional building) up to the cross, was 220
feet, the great tower was 40 feet in breadth, and the transepts on
either side of it each 45 feet in length, the choir was 150 feet; its
entire length from east to west was {665} 420 feet; and if we add the
appended St. Joseph's chapel, we have a range of building 530 feet in
length.
Turning from the contemplation of this external grandeur, we come to a
structure which forms the extreme west of the abbey--a chapel
dedicated to St. Joseph of Arimathea. The entrance on the north side
is a masterpiece of art, being a portal consisting of four
semicircular arches, receding and diminishing as they recede into the
body of the wall, the four fasciae profusely decorated with sculptured
representations of personages and scenes, varied by running patterns
of tendrils, leaves, and other natural objects. The first thing that
strikes the attention upon entering is the beautiful
triarial-mullioned window at the western extremity, with its
semicircular head; opposite, at the eastern end, another,
corresponding in size and decoration, throws its light upon the altar.
On both the north and south sides of the church are four uniform
windows, rising loftily till their summits nearly touch the vaulting;
underneath these are four sculptured arches, the panelling between
them adorned with painted representations of the sun, moon, stars, and
all the host of heaven; the flooring was a tesselated pavement of
encaustic tiles, each bearing an heraldic device, or some allegorical
or historical subject. Beneath this tesselated pavement is a spacious
crypt, eighty-nine feet in length, twenty feet in width, and ten feet
high, provided with an altar, and when used for service illuminated by
lamps suspended from the ceiling. St. Joseph's chapel, however, with
its softly-colored light, its glittering panels, its resplendent
altars, and its elegant proportions, is a beautiful creation; but only
a foretaste or a prelude of that full glare of splendor which bursts
upon the view on ascending the flight of steps leading from its lower
level up to the nave of the great abbey church itself, which was
dedicated to St. Mary. Arrived at that point, the spectator gazes upon
a long vista of some four hundred feet, including the nave and choir;
passing up through the nave, which has a double line of arches, whose
pillars are profusely sculptured, we come to the central point in the
transept, where there are four magnificent Gothic arches, which for
imposing grandeur could scarcely be equalled in the world, mounting up
to the height of one hundred feet, upon which rested the great tower
of the church. A portion of one of these arches still exists, and
though broken retains its original grandeur. In the transept running
north and south from this point are four beautifully decorated
chapels, St. Mary's, in the north aisle; St. Andrew's, in the south;
Our Lady of Loretto's, on the north side of the nave; and at the south
angle that of the Holy Sepulchre; another stood just behind the tower,
dedicated to St. Edgar: in each of these are altars richly adorned
with glittering appointments, and beautiful glass windows, stained
with the figures of their patron saints, the apostles, scriptural
scenes or episodes from the hagiology of the Church; then, running in
a straight line with the nave, completing the gigantic parallelogram,
is the choir, where the divine office is daily performed. The body is
divided into stalls and seats for the abbot, the officers, and monks.
At the eastern extremity stands the high altar, with its profusion of
decorative splendor, whilst over it is an immense stained-glass
window, with semicircular top, which pours down upon the altar, and in
fact bathes the whole choir, when viewed from a distance, in a sea of
softened many-colored light. The flooring of the great church, like
that of St. Joseph's, is composed of encaustic Norman tiles, inscribed
with Scripture sentences, heraldic devices, and names of kings and
benefactors. Underneath the great church is the crypt--a dark vault
divided into three compartments by two rows of strong massive pillars,
into which, having descended from the church, the spectator {666}
enters; the light of his torch is thrown back from a hundred different
points, like the eyes of serpents glittering through the darkness,
reflected from the bright gold and silver nails and decorations of the
coffins that lie piled on all sides, and whose ominous shapes can be
just faintly distinguished. This is the weird world, which exerts a
mysterious influence over the hearts of the most thoughtless--the
silent world of death in life; and piled up around are the remains of
whole generations long extinct of races of canonized saints, pious
kings, devout queens, mitred abbots, bishops, nobles who gave all
their wealth to lie here, knights who braved the dangers of foreign
climes, the power of the stealthy pestilence, and the scimitar of the
wild Saracen, that they might one day come back and lay their bones in
this holy spot. There were the gilded coffins of renowned abbots,
whose names were a mighty power in the world when they lived, and
whose thoughts are still read with delight by the votaries of another
creed--the silver crosiers of bishops, the purple cloth of royalty,
and the crimson of the noble--all slumbering and smoldering in the
dense obscurity of the tomb, but flashing up to the light once more in
a temporary brilliancy, like the last ball-room effort of some aged
beauty--the aristocracy of death, the coquetry of human vanity, strong
even in human corruption. Amongst the denizens of this dark region
are--King Arthur and his queen Guinever, Coel II., grandfather of
Constantine the Great, Kentwyn, king of the West Saxons, Edmund I.,
Edgar and Ironsides, St. David of Wales, and St. Gildas, beside nine
bishops, fifteen abbots, and many others of note. Reascending from
this gloomy cavern to the glories of the great church, we wander
amongst its aisles, and as we gaze upon the splendors of its choir, we
reflect that in this gorgeous temple, embellished by everything that
art and science could contribute, and sanctified by the presence of
its holy altar, with its consecrated host, its cherished receptacle of
saintly relics, and its sublime mysteries, did these devout men, seven
times a day, for centuries, assemble for prayer and worship. As soon
as the clock had tolled out the hour of midnight, when all the rest of
the world was rocked in slumber, they arose, and flocked in silence to
the church, where they remain in prayer and praise until the first
faint streaks of dawn began to chase away the constellations of the
night, and then, at stated intervals through the rest of the day, the
appointed services were carried on, so that the greater portion of
their lives was spent m this choir, whose very walls were vocal with
psalmody and prayer. It was a grand offering to the Almighty of human
work and human life. In that temple was gathered as a rich oblation
everything that the united labor of ages could create and collect;
strong hands had dug out its foundations in the bowels of the earth,
had hewn stubborn rocks into huge blocks, and piled them up high in
the heavens, had fashioned them into pillars and arches, myriads of
busy fingers had labored for ages at its decoration until every
column, every cornice, and every angle bore traces of patient toil;
the painter, the sculptor, the poet, had all contributed to its
embellishment, strength created it, genius beautified it, and the
ever-ascending incense of human contrition, human adoration, and human
prayer completed the gorgeous sacrifice which those devotees of
mediaeval times offered up in honor of him whose mysterious presence
they venerated as the actual and real inhabitant of their holy of
holies.
Retracing our steps once more to the nave, we turn to take one
lingering glance at the scene: and here the full beauty and
magnificence of the edifice bursts upon the view, the eye wanders
through a perfect stony forest whose stately trees, taken at some
moment when their tops, bending toward each other and interlacing
{667} themselves, had been petrified into the natural beauty of the
Gothic arch; here and there were secluded spots where the prismatic
light from painted windows danced about the pillars like straggling
sunbeams through the thick foliage of a forest glade. The clusters of
pillars resembled the gnarled bark of old forest trees, and the
grouped ornaments of their capitols were the points where the trunk
itself spread off into limbs and branches; there were groves and
labyrinths running far away into the interior of this sculptured wood,
and towering high in the centre were those four kings of the forest,
whose tops met far up in the heavens--the true heart of the scene,
from which everything diverged, and, with which everything was in
keeping. Then, as the spectator stands, lost in the grandeur of the
spectacle, gazing in rapt wonder at the sky-painted ceiling, or at
some fantastic gnarled head grinning at him from a shady nook, the
passing whim of some mediaeval brain--a faint sigh, as of a distant
wind, steals along those stony glades, gradually increasing in volume,
until presently the full, rich tones of the choir burst forth, the
organ peals out its melodious thunder, add every arch and every pillar
vibrates with undulations of harmonious sound, just as in the
storm-shaken forest every mighty denizen bends his massive branches to
the fierce tempest-wind, and intones his deep response to the wild
music of the storm. Before the power of that music-tempest everything
bowed, and as the strains of some Gregorian chant or the dirge-like
melody of some penitential psalm filled the whole building with its
pathos, every figure seemed to be invested with life, the mysterious
harmony between the building and its uses was manifested, the painted
figures on the windows appeared to join in the strain, a celestial
chorus of apostles, martyrs, and saints; the statues in their niches
threw back the melody; the figures reclining on the tombs seemed to
raise their clasped hands in silent response to its power, as though
moved in their stony slumber by a dream of solemn sounds; the
grotesque figures on the pillars and in nooks and corners chanted the
dissonant chords, which brought out more boldly the general harmony;
every arch, with its entwined branches and sculptured foliage, shook
with the stormy melody: all was instinct with sympathetic life, until,
the fury of the tempest dying away in fitful gusts, the last breeze
was wafted, the painted forms became dumb, the statues and images grew
rigid, the foliage was still, all the sympathetic vitality faded away,
and the sacred grove fell into its silent magnificence.
Attached to the great church were two offices--the sacristy and church
treasury. In the former were kept the sacred vestments, chalices,
etc., in use daily; and in the latter were kept all the valuables,
such as sacred relics, jewels and plate not in use, with mitres,
crosiers, cruces, and pectorals; there was also a confessional for
those who wished to use it before going to the altar. The care of
these two offices was committed to a monk elected by the abbot, who
was called the sacrist. Coming out of the church we arrive at the
cloisters, a square place, surrounded by a corridor of pillars, and in
the centre of the enclosure was a flower-garden--this was the place
where the monks were accustomed to assemble at certain hours to walk
up and down. In one of the alleys of the cloister stood the
chapter-house, which, as it was the scene of the most important events
in their monotonous lives, deserves a description. In this spot the
abbots and officers of the monastery were elected, all the business of
the house as a body was discussed, faults were openly confessed,
openly reproved, and in some cases corporal punishment was awarded in
the presence of the abbot and whole convent upon some incorrigible
offender, so that, beside being an assembling room, it was a court of
complaint and correction. One {668} brother could accuse another
openly, when the matter was gone into, and justice done. In all
conventual institutions it was a weekly custom, and in some a daily
one, to assemble in the chapter-house after one of the morning
services (generally after primes), when a sentence from the rule was
read, a psalm sung, and business attended to. It was also an envied
burying-place; and the reader, as he stood at his desk in the
chapter-house of Glastonbury Abbey, stood over the body of Abbot
Chinnock, who himself perfected its building, which was commenced in
1303 by Abbot Fromont. In the interior, which was lit up by a
magnificent stained-glass window, there were three rows of stone
benches one above another. On the floor there was a reading-desk and
bench apart; in a platform raised above the other seats was the
abbot's renowned elbow-chair, which extraordinary piece of monastic
workmanship excited so much curiosity at the great Exhibition of 1851.
In the middle of the hall was a platform called the Judgment, being
the spot where corporal punishment, when necessary, was inflicted; and
towering above all was a crucifix, to remind the brethren of the
sufferings of Christ. In another alley of the cloisters stood the
fratery, or apartment for the novices, which had its own refectory,
common room, lavatory, and dormitory, and was governed by one of the
priors. Ascending the staircase, we come to a gallery in which are the
library, the wardrobe, the common house, and the common treasury. The
library was the first in England, filled with choice and valuable
books, which had been given to the monastery from time to time in its
history by kings, scholars, and devotees of all classes; many also
were transcribed by the monks. During the twelfth century, although
even then of great renown in the world, it was considerably augmented
by Henricus Blessensis, or Henry of Blois (nephew of Henry I. and
brother of Stephen), who was abbot. This royal scholar had more books
transcribed during his abbacy than any of his predecessors. A list is
still extant--"_De libris quos Henricus fecit transcribere_," in which
are to be found such works as Pliny "_De Naturali Historia_," a book
in great favor at that time; "_Originem super Epistolas Pauli ad
Romanos_," "_Vitas Caesarum_," "_Augustinum de Trinitate_," etc.
Here, too, as in every monastic library in the kingdom, was that old
favorite of conventual life, and still favorite with many a lonely
student, "_Boethius de Consolatione Philosophiae_," and many a great
work from the grim solitude of a prison cell, cherished, too, as the
link which connected the modern Latinists with those of the classic
age. Housed up in that lonely corner of the island, the Glastonbury
library was the storehouse of all the learning of the times; and as
devotees bent their steps from all climes toward the Glastonbury
relics and the Glastonbury shrine, so did the devotees of genius
lovingly wander to the Glastonbury library. Leland, the old gossipping
antiquarian, has testified to its glory, and given us an amusing
account of the reverential awe with which he visited it not long
before the fatal dissolution of the monastery. In the preliminary
observations to his "_Collectanea de Rebus Britannicis_," [Footnote
95] he has put the following upon record:--"Eram aliquot ab hinc annis
Glessoburgi Somurotrigum ubi antiquissimum simul et famosissimum est
totius insulaes nostrae caenobium, animumque longo studioram labore
fessum, favente Ricardo Whitingo, [Footnote 96] ejusdem loci abbate,
recreabam donee novus quidam cum legendi tum discendi ardor me
inflammaret. Supervenit autem ardor ille citius opinione; itaque
statim me contuli ad bibliothecam non omnibus perviam at sacras
sanctae vetustatis reliquias quarum tantus ibi numerus quantus nollo
{669} alio facile Britanniae loco diligentissime evolverem. Vix certo
limen intraveram cum antiquissimorum librorum vel solus conspectus,
religionem nescio an stuporem, animo incuteret meo, eaqae de causa
pedem paululum sistebam. Deinde salutato loci numine per dies aliquot
onmes forulos curiosissime excussi."
[Footnote 95: "Collect Reb. Brit." vi., page 87, Hearne's edition.]
[Footnote 96: Richard Whiting, the last Abbot.]
But attached to the library was a department common to all the
Benedictine monasteries, where, during long centuries of ignorance,
the materials of modern education were preserved and perpetuated; this
office was called the scriptorium, or _domus antiquariorum_. Here were
assembled for daily labor a class of monks selected for their superior
scholarship and writing ability; they were divided into two classes,
the _antiquarii_ and the _librarii_: the former were occupied in
making copies of valuable old books, and the latter were engaged in
transcribing new ones, and works of an inferior order. The books they
copied were the Scriptures, always in process of copying; missals,
books for the service of the Church, works on theology, and any of the
classics that fell into their hands. St. David, the patron saint of
Wales, is said to have devoted much time to this work, and at the
period of his death had begun to transcribe the gospel of St. John in
letters of gold with his own hand. [Footnote 97]
[Footnote 97: _Giraldus Cambren, vitâ Davidis Angl. Sac, ii._, 635.]
The instruments used in the work of the scriptorium were pens, chalk,
pumice-stone for rubbing the parchment smooth; penknives, and knives
for making erasures, an awl to make dots, a ruler and inkstand. The
greatest care was taken by the transcriber, the writing was always
beautifully clear, omissions were most scrupulously noted in the
margins, and all interlineations were mentioned and acknowledged. In
an old manuscript belonging to the Carmelites, the scribe adds, "I
have signed it with the sign following, and made a certain
interlineation which says '_redis_' and another which says
'_ordinis_,' and another which says '_ordini_,' and another which says
'_circa_.'" So great was the care they took to preserve the text
accurately, and free from interpolations. In these secluded studies
sprang up that art, the most charming which the middle ages have
handed down to us, the art of illumination, so vainly imitated by the
artists of the present day, not from want of genius, but from want of
something almost indescribable in the conception and execution, a tone
and preservation of color, and especially of the gilding, which was
essentially peculiar to the old monks, who must have possessed some
secret both of combination and fixing of colors which has been lost
with them. This elaborate illumination was devoted to religious books,
psalms, missals, and prayer-books; in other works the first letters of
chapters were beautifully illuminated, and other leading letters in a
lesser degree. The scribe generally left spaces for these, as that was
the duty of another; in the spaces were what were called "leading
letters," written small to guide the illuminator; these guide-letters
may still be detected in some books. So great was the love of this
art, that when printing displaced the labors of the scribe, it was
customary for a long time to have the leading letters left blank for
illumination. Such were the peculiar labors of the scriptorium, and to
encourage those who dedicated their time to it, a special benediction
was attached to the office, and posterity, when satirizing the
monastic life, would do well to remember that the elegance of the
satire may be traced back again to these labors, which are the
materials for the education and refinement of modern thought; we got
our Bible from them, we got our classics from them, and had not such
ruthless vandalism been exercised by those over-zealous men who
effected their dispersion, it is more than probable that the learned
world would not have had to lament over, the lost Decades of Livy. It
is the peculiarity of ignorance to be barbarous. There {670} is very
little difference between the feeling which prompted a Caliph Omar to
burn the Alexandrian Library or a Totila to destroy the achievements
of Roman art; and the feeling had only degenerated into the barbarity,
without the bravery, when it revived again in the person of our
arch-iconoclast, Cromwell, of church-devastating memory, who, however
great his love of piety many have been, must have had a thorough
hatred of architecture. The care of the library and the scriptorium
was intrusted to the librarian. The next department in the gallery was
the lavatory, fitted up with all the appliances for washing; and
adjoining this room was one arranged for shaving, a duty to which the
monks paid strict attention, more especially to preserve the tonsure.
The next room was the wardrobe, where their articles of clothing and
bedding were stored, and in an inner chamber was the tailory, where a
number of lay brethren, with a vocation for that useful craft, were
continually at work, making and repairing the clothes of the
community. These two rooms and the lavatory were in charge of the
camerarius, or chamberlain. The last abbot who sat in the chair of
Glastonbury was, as we shall see, elevated from this humble position
to that princely dignity. The common room was the next office, and
this was fitted up with benches and tables for the general use of the
monks; a fire was also kept burning in the winter, the only one
allowed for general purposes. The last chamber in the corridor was the
common treasury, a strong receptacle for ready money belonging to the
monastery, charters, registers, books, and accounts of the abbey, all
stored up in iron chests. In addition to being the strong room of the
abbey, it had another important use. In those uncertain times it was
the custom for both nobles and gentry to send their deeds, family
papers, and sometimes their plate and money, to the nearest monastery,
where, by permission of the abbot, they were intrusted to the care of
the treasurer for greater security; in the wildest hour, when the
castle was given up to fire and sword, the abbey was always held in
reverence; for, independently of its sacred character, it was endeared
to the people by the free-handed charity of its almonry and refectory
kitchen. Retracing our steps along the corridor, and ascending another
flight of stairs, we come to the dormitory, or dortoir, a large
passage with cells on either side; each monk had a separate chamber,
very small, in which there was a window, but no chimney, a narrow
bedstead, furnished with a straw bed, a mattress, a bolster of straw,
a coarse blanket, and a rug; by the bedstead was a prie-Dieu, or desk,
with a crucifix upon it, to kneel at for the last and private
devotions; another desk and table, with shelves and drawers for books
and papers; in the middle was a cresset, or stone-lantern, with a lamp
in it to give them light when they arose in the middle of the night to
go to matins; this department also was under the care of the
chamberlain. One more chamber was called the infirmary, where the sick
were immediately removed, and treated with the greatest attention;
this was in the charge of an officer called the infirmarius. We now
descend these two flights of stairs, issue from the cloisters, and,
bending our steps to the south-west, we come to the great hall, or
refectory, where the whole convent assembled at meals. At Glastonbury
there were seven long tables, around which, and adjoining the walls,
were benches for the monks. The table at the upper end was for the
abbot, the priors, and other heads, the two next for the priests, the
two next for such as were in orders, but not priests, and such as
intended to enter into orders; the lower table on the right hand of
the abbot was for such as were to take orders whom the other two
middle tables could not hold, and the lower table on the left of the
abbot was reserved for the lay brethren. In a convenient place was a
pulpit, where one of the monks, at the {671} appointment of the abbot,
read portions of the Old and New Testament in Latin every day during
dinner and supper. The routine of dinner, as indeed the routine of all
their meals, was ordered by a system of etiquette as stringent as that
which prevails in the poorest and smallest German court of the present
day. The sub-prior, who generally presided at the table, or some one
appointed by him, rang the bell; the monks, having previously
performed their ablutions in the lavatory, then came into the great
hall, and bowing to the high table, stood in their places till the
sub-prior came, when they resumed their seats; a psalm was sung, and a
short service followed by way of grace. The sub-prior then gave the
benediction, and at the end they uncovered the food, the sub-prior
beginning; the soup was then handed round, and the dinner proceeded;
if anything was wanted it was brought by the cellarer, or one of his
assistants, who attended, when both the bringer and receiver bowed. As
soon as the meal was finished the cellarer collected the spoons; and
so stringent was the etiquette, that if the abbot dined with the
household (which he did occasionally) he was compelled to carry the
abbot's spoon in his right hand and the others in his left; when all
was removed the sub-prior ordered the reading to conclude by a "Tu
antem," and the reply of "Dei gratias;" the reader then bowed, the
remaining food was covered, the bell was rung, the monks arose, a
verse of a psalm was sung, when they bowed and retired two by two,
singing the "Miserere."
A little further toward the south stood the guest-house, where all
visitors, from prince to peasant, were received by the hospitaller
with a kiss of peace, and entertained. They were allowed to stay two
days and two nights; on the third day after dinner they were expected
to depart, but if not convenient they could procure an extension of
their stay by application to the abbot. This hospitality, so
generously accorded, was often abused by sons of donors and
descendants of benefactors, who saddled themselves and their retinues
upon the monasteries frequently, and for a period commensurate with
the patience of the abbot; and to so great an extent did this evil
grow that statutes were enacted to relieve the abbeys so oppressed.
Not far from the refectory, toward the west, stood the abbot's private
apartments, and still further to the west the great kitchen, which was
one of the wonders of the day; its capacity may be imagined when we
reflect that it had frequently to provide dinner for four or five
hundred guests; but the arrangements and service of the kitchen
deserve notice. Every monk had to serve as hebdomadary, or dispenser,
whose duty it was to appoint what food was to be dressed and to keep
the accounts for the week. Upon taking office he was compelled to wash
the feet of the brethren, and upon yielding it up to the new
hebdomadary he was obliged to see that all the utensils were clean.
St. Benedict strictly enjoined this rule upon them, in order that, as
Christ their Lord washed the feet of his disciples, they might wash
each others' feet, and wait upon each others' wants. The Glastonbury
kitchen is the only building which still remains entire; it was built
wholly of stone, for the better security from fire; on the outside it
is a four-square, and on the inside an eight-square figure; it had
four hearths, was twenty feet in height to the roof, which ran up in a
figure of eight triangles; from the top hung suspended a huge lantern.
[Footnote 98]
[Footnote 98: Strange vicissitudes of kitchens--in 1667 this
Glastonbury Abbey kitchen was hired by the Quakers as a
meeting-house; in the fulness of time, where monasticism cooked its
mutton Quakerdom sat in triumph.]
Attached to the kitchen was the almonry, or eleemosynarium, where on
Wednesdays and Fridays the poor people of Glastonbury and its
neighborhood were liberally relieved. This duty was committed to a
grave monk, who {672} was called the almoner, or eleemosynarius, and
who had to inquire after the poor and sick. No abbots in the kingdom
were more liberal in the discharge of these two duties of their
office, hospitality and almsgiving, than the abbots of Glastonbury. It
was not an unusual thing for them to entertain 500 guests at a
sitting, some of whom were of the first rank in the country, and the
loose charge of riotous feasting which has been thoughtlessly made
against the monastic life by hostile historians becomes modified when
we recollect that in that age there were scarcely any wayside inns in
the country, and all men, when travelling, halted at the monastery and
looked for refreshment and shelter as a matter of right; neither had
that _glorious_ system of union work-houses been thought of, and
therefore the sick and the poor fell at once to the care of the
monastery, where they were cheerfully relieved and tenderly treated.
Last, but not least, was the department for boys--another little
detached community, with its own school-room, dormitory, refectory,
hall, etc. One of the monks presided over them. They were taught
Christian doctrine, music, grammar, and, if any showed capacity, the
subjects necessary for the university. They were maintained free, and
had to officiate in the church as choristers; a system maintained
almost to the letter up to the very present moment. William of
Malmesbury records that in the churchyard of Glastonbury Abbey stood
some very ancient pyramids close to the sarcophagus of King Arthur.
The tallest was nearest the church, twenty-six feet in height,
consisting of five stories, or courses; in the upper course was the
figure of a bishop, in the second of a king, with this
inscription--HER. SEXI. and BLISVVERH. In the third the names
WEMCRESTE, BANTOMP, WENETHEGN. In the fourth--HATE, WVLFREDE, and
EANFLEDE. In the fifth, and last, the figure of an abbot, with the
following inscription--LOGVVOR, WESLIELAS and BREGDENE, SVVELVVES
HVVINGENDES, and BERNE. The other pyramid was eighteen feet in height,
and consisted of four stories, whereon were inscribed in large letters
HEDDE Episcopus BREGORRED and BEORVVALDE. William of Malmesbury could
give no satisfactory solution to the meaning of these inscriptions
beyond the suggestion that the word BREGDENE must have meant a place
then called "Brentacnolle," which now exists under the name of Brent
Knowle, and that BEORWALDE was Beorwald, the abbot after Hemigselus.
He concludes his speculation, however, with the sentence--"Quid haec
significent non temere diffinio sed ex suspicione colligo eorum
interius in cavatis lapidibus contineri ossa quorum exterius leguntur
nomina." [Footnote 99]
[Footnote 99: Guliel. Malms. Hist. Glaston.]
The man who ruled over this miniature world, with a state little short
of royalty, was endowed with proportionate dignities; being a member
of the upper house of convocation and a parliamentary baron, he sat
robed and mitred amongst the peers of the country; in addition to his
residence at the abbey he had four or five rural retreats at easy
distances from it, with parks, gardens, fisheries, and every luxury;
his household was a sort of court, where the sons of noblemen and
gentlemen were sent to be trained and educated. When at home he
royally entertained his 300 guests, and when he went abroad he was
attended by a guard of 100 men. The rent-roll of the monastery has
been computed to amount to more than £300,000 per annum, which in
these days would be equal to nearly half a million. Up to the year
1154 he ranked also as First Abbot of England, and took precedence of
all others; but Adrian the Fourth, the only Englishman who ever
ascended the papal chair, bestowed that honor upon the Abbot of St.
Albans, where he had received his education. The church, and different
offices which clustered round it, formed a kingdom, {673} over which
he ruled with absolute power. This description of the buildings and
adjuncts of the abbey may not be inaptly closed by giving a sketch of
the outline of a monastic day, which will assist the reader to form a
clearer idea of the monastic life. At two in the morning the bell
tolled for matins, when every monk arose, and after performing his
private devotions hastened to the church, and took his seat. When all
were assembled fifteen psalms were sung, then came the nocturn, and
more psalms; a short interval ensued, during which the chanter choir
and those who needed it had permission to retire for a short time if
they wished; then followed lauds, which were generally finished by six
A.M., when the bell rang for prime; when this was finished the monks
continued reading till seven o'clock, when the bell was rung and they
returned to put on their day clothes. Afterward, the whole convent
having performed their ablutions and broken their fast, proceeded
again to the church, and the bell was rung for tierce at nine o'clock.
After tierce came the morning mass, and as soon as that was over they
marched in procession to the chapter-house for business and correction
of faults. This ceremony over, the monks worked or read till sext,
twelve A.M., which service concluded, they dined; then followed the
hour's sleep in their clothes in the dormitory, unless any of them
preferred reading. Nones commenced at three P.M., first vespers at
four, then work or reading till second vespers at seven, afterward
reading till collation; then came the service of complin, confession
of sins, evening prayers, and retirement to rest about nine P.M.
That was the life pursued at Glastonbury Abbey, according to the
Benedictine rule, from the time of its establishment there until the
dissolution of the monastery, nearly ten centuries. With our modern
training and predilections, it is a marvel to us that men could be
found willing to submit to such a monotonous career--ten hours a day
spent in the church, beginning in the middle of the night, winter and
summer. And yet the monastery was always full. We read of no breaking
up of institutions for want of devotees, and we are driven to the
conclusion that in the age when the monastic life was in its power and
purity these men could have been actuated by none other than the
motive of strong religious fervor--a fervor of which we in modern
times have neither conception nor example. The operation of the
influence of that life upon the history of these islands can only be
contemplated by watching it in the various phases of its action upon
the politics, literature, and art by which it was surrounded, and for
that purpose we have selected this oldest and grandest specimen of
English monasticism, so faintly described, the mother Church of our
country, in whose career so brilliant, so varied, and so tragically
ended, we hope to be able to show wherein was the glory, the weakness,
and the ruin of the system, as it rose, flourished, and fell in
England.
We have endeavored to conjure up from the shadowy realms of the past
some faint representation of what Glastonbury Abbey was in the days of
its glory; let us now transfer ourselves from the age of towered
abbeys, wandering pilgrims, monks, cloisters, and convent bells to
this noisy, riotous, busy time in the year of grace 1865--from the
Glastonbury Abbey of the sixteenth century to the Glastonbury Abbey of
to-day.