MUNICH, Jan. 21, (1879)

MY DEAR HOWELLS,--It's no use, your letter miscarried in some way and

is lost. The consul has made a thorough search and says he has not been

able to trace it. It is unaccountable, for all the letters I did not

want arrived without a single grateful failure. Well, I have read-up,

now, as far as you have got, that is, to where there's a storm at sea

approaching,--and we three think you are clear, out-Howellsing Howells.

If your literature has not struck perfection now we are not able to see

what is lacking. It is all such truth--truth to the life; every where

your pen falls it leaves a photograph. I did imagine that everything had

been said about life at sea that could be said, but no matter, it

was all a failure and lies, nothing but lies with a thin varnish of

fact,--only you have stated it as it absolutely is. And only you see

people and their ways, and their insides and outsides as they are, and

make them talk as they do talk. I think you are the very greatest artist

in these tremendous mysteries that ever lived. There doesn't seem to be

anything that can be concealed from your awful all-seeing eye. It must

be a cheerful thing for one to live with you and be aware that you are

going up and down in him like another conscience all the time. Possibly

you will not be a fully accepted classic until you have been dead a

hundred years,--it is the fate of the Shakespeares and of all genuine

prophets,--but then your books will be as common as Bibles, I believe.

You're not a weed, but an oak; not a summer-house, but a cathedral. In

that day I shall still be in the Cyclopedias, too, thus: “Mark Twain;

history and occupation unknown--but he was personally acquainted with

Howells.” There--I could sing your praises all day, and feel and believe

every bit of it.

My book is half finished; I wish to heaven it was done. I have given up

writing a detective novel--can't write a novel, for I lack the faculty;

but when the detectives were nosing around after Stewart's loud

remains, I threw a chapter into my present book in which I have very

extravagantly burlesqued the detective business--if it is possible to

burlesque that business extravagantly. You know I was going to send you

that detective play, so that you could re-write it. Well I didn't do it

because I couldn't find a single idea in it that could be useful to you.

It was dreadfully witless and flat. I knew it would sadden you and unfit

you for work.

I have always been sorry we threw up that play embodying Orion which you

began. It was a mistake to do that. Do keep that MS and tackle it again.

It will work out all right; you will see. I don't believe that that

character exists in literature in so well-developed a condition as it

exists in Orion's person. Now won't you put Orion in a story? Then he

will go handsomely into a play afterwards. How deliciously you could

paint him--it would make fascinating reading--the sort that makes

a reader laugh and cry at the same time, for Orion is as good and

ridiculous a soul as ever was.

Ah, to think of Bayard Taylor! It is too sad to talk about. I was so

glad there was not a single sting and so many good praiseful words in

the Atlantic's criticism of Deukalion.

Love to you all

Yrs Ever

MARK

We remain here till middle of March.

In 'A Tramp Abroad' there is an incident in which the author

describes himself as hunting for a lost sock in the dark, in a vast

hotel bedroom at Heilbronn. The account of the real incident, as

written to Twichell, seems even more amusing.

The “Yarn About the Limburger Cheese and the Box of Guns,” like “The

Stolen White Elephant,” did not find place in the travel-book, but

was published in the same volume with the elephant story, added to

the rambling notes of “An Idle Excursion.”

With the discovery of the Swiss note-book, work with Mark Twain was

going better. His letter reflects his enthusiasm.

*****

To Rev. J. H. Twichell, in Hartford:

MUNICH, Jan 26 '79.

DEAR OLD JOE,--Sunday. Your delicious letter arrived exactly at the

right time. It was laid by my plate as I was finishing breakfast at 12

noon. Livy and Clara, (Spaulding) arrived from church 5 minutes later; I

took a pipe and spread myself out on the sofa, and Livy sat by and read,

and I warmed to that butcher the moment he began to swear. There is

more than one way of praying, and I like the butcher's way because the

petitioner is so apt to be in earnest. I was peculiarly alive to his

performance just at this time, for another reason, to wit: Last night I

awoke at 3 this morning, and after raging to my self for 2 interminable

hours, I gave it up. I rose, assumed a catlike stealthiness, to keep

from waking Livy, and proceeded to dress in the pitch dark. Slowly but

surely I got on garment after garment--all down to one sock; I had one

slipper on and the other in my hand. Well, on my hands and knees I crept

softly around, pawing and feeling and scooping along the carpet, and

among chair-legs for that missing sock; I kept that up; and still kept

it up and kept it up. At first I only said to myself, “Blame that sock,”

but that soon ceased to answer; my expletives grew steadily stronger and

stronger,--and at last, when I found I was lost, I had to sit flat down

on the floor and take hold of something to keep from lifting the roof

off with the profane explosion that was trying to get out of me. I could

see the dim blur of the window, but of course it was in the wrong

place and could give me no information as to where I was. But I had

one comfort--I had not waked Livy; I believed I could find that sock in

silence if the night lasted long enough. So I started again and softly

pawed all over the place,--and sure enough at the end of half an hour I

laid my hand on the missing article. I rose joyfully up and butted the

wash-bowl and pitcher off the stand and simply raised----so to speak.

Livy screamed, then said, “Who is that? what is the matter?” I said

“There ain't anything the matter--I'm hunting for my sock.” She said,

“Are you hunting for it with a club?”

I went in the parlor and lit the lamp, and gradually the fury subsided

and the ridiculous features of the thing began to suggest themselves.

So I lay on the sofa, with note-book and pencil, and transferred the

adventure to our big room in the hotel at Heilbronn, and got it on paper

a good deal to my satisfaction.

I found the Swiss note-book, some time ago. When it was first lost I

was glad of it, for I was getting an idea that I had lost my faculty of

writing sketches of travel; therefore the loss of that note-book would

render the writing of this one simply impossible, and let me gracefully

out; I was about to write to Bliss and propose some other book, when the

confounded thing turned up, and down went my heart into my boots. But

there was now no excuse, so I went solidly to work--tore up a great part

of the MS written in Heidelberg,--wrote and tore up,--continued to write

and tear up,--and at last, reward of patient and noble persistence, my

pen got the old swing again!

Since then I'm glad Providence knew better what to do with the Swiss

note-book than I did, for I like my work, now, exceedingly, and often

turn out over 30 MS pages a day and then quit sorry that Heaven makes

the days so short.

One of my discouragements had been the belief that my interest in this

tour had been so slender that I couldn't gouge matter enough out of it

to make a book. What a mistake. I've got 900 pages written (not a word

in it about the sea voyage) yet I stepped my foot out of Heidelberg for

the first time yesterday,--and then only to take our party of four

on our first pedestrian tour--to Heilbronn. I've got them dressed

elaborately in walking costume--knapsacks, canteens, field-glasses,

leather leggings, patent walking shoes, muslin folds around their hats,

with long tails hanging down behind, sun umbrellas, and Alpenstocks.

They go all the way to Wimpfen by rail-thence to Heilbronn in a chance

vegetable cart drawn by a donkey and a cow; I shall fetch them home on

a raft; and if other people shall perceive that that was no pedestrian

excursion, they themselves shall not be conscious of it.--This trip will

take 100 pages or more,--oh, goodness knows how many! for the mood is

everything, not the material, and I already seem to see 300 pages rising

before me on that trip. Then, I propose to leave Heidelberg for good.

Don't you see, the book (1800 MS pages,) may really be finished before I

ever get to Switzerland?

But there's one thing; I want to tell Frank Bliss and his father to be

charitable toward me in,--that is, let me tear up all the MS I want to,

and give me time to write more. I shan't waste the time--I haven't the

slightest desire to loaf, but a consuming desire to work, ever since I

got back my swing. And you see this book is either going to be compared

with the Innocents Abroad, or contrasted with it, to my disadvantage.

I think I can make a book that will be no dead corpse of a thing and I

mean to do my level best to accomplish that.

My crude plans are crystalizing. As the thing stands now, I went to

Europe for three purposes. The first you know, and must keep secret,

even from the Blisses; the second is to study Art; and the third to

acquire a critical knowledge of the German language. My MS already shows

that the two latter objects are accomplished. It shows that I am moving

about as an Artist and a Philologist, and unaware that there is any

immodesty in assuming these titles. Having three definite objects has

had the effect of seeming to enlarge my domain and give me the freedom

of a loose costume. It is three strings to my bow, too.

Well, your butcher is magnificent. He won't stay out of my mind.--I keep

trying to think of some way of getting your account of him into my book

without his being offended--and yet confound him there isn't anything

you have said which he would see any offense in,--I'm only thinking of

his friends--they are the parties who busy themselves with seeing things

for people. But I'm bound to have him in. I'm putting in the yarn about

the Limburger cheese and the box of guns, too--mighty glad Howells

declined it. It seems to gather richness and flavor with age. I have

very nearly killed several companies with that narrative,--the American

Artists Club, here, for instance, and Smith and wife and Miss Griffith

(they were here in this house a week or two.) I've got other chapters

that pretty nearly destroyed the same parties, too.

O, Switzerland! the further it recedes into the enriching haze of time,

the more intolerably delicious the charm of it and the cheer of it

and the glory and majesty and solemnity and pathos of it grow. Those

mountains had a soul; they thought; they spoke,--one couldn't hear it

with the ears of the body, but what a voice it was!--and how real.

Deep down in my memory it is sounding yet. Alp calleth unto Alp!--that

stately old Scriptural wording is the right one for God's Alps and God's

ocean. How puny we were in that awful presence--and how painless it was

to be so; how fitting and right it seemed, and how stingless was the

sense of our unspeakable insignificance. And Lord how pervading were

the repose and peace and blessedness that poured out of the heart of the

invisible Great Spirit of the Mountains.

Now what is it? There are mountains and mountains and mountains in this

world--but only these take you by the heart-strings. I wonder what the

secret of it is. Well, time and time again it has seemed to me that

I must drop everything and flee to Switzerland once more. It is a

longing--a deep, strong, tugging longing--that is the word. We must go

again, Joe.--October days, let us get up at dawn and breakfast at the

tower. I should like that first rate.

Livy and all of us send deluges of love to you and Harmony and all the

children. I dreamed last night that I woke up in the library at home and

your children were frolicing around me and Julia was sitting in my lap;

you and Harmony and both families of Warners had finished their welcomes

and were filing out through the conservatory door, wrecking Patrick's

flower pots with their dress skirts as they went. Peace and plenty abide

with you all!

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