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A GIRL'S RIDE IN ICELAND.
[Illustration: MRS. ALEC TWEEDIE.
_After a painting by Herbert Schmalz._]
A GIRL'S
RIDE IN ICELAND
BY
MRS. ALEC TWEEDIE
(_Née_ HARLEY).
AUTHOR OF "A WINTER JAUNT TO NORWAY," WITH PERSONAL
ACCOUNTS OF NANSEN, IBSEN, BJÖRNSEN, AND BRANDES;
"THE OBERAMMERGAU PASSION PLAY," ETC.
"Iceland shone with glorious lore renowned
A Northern light, when all was gloom around."
_Montgomery._
_WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS AND A MAP._
SECOND EDITION.
LONDON: HORACE COX, WINDSOR HOUSE,
BREAM'S BUILDINGS, E.C.
1894.
_The Rights of Translation and Reproduction are reserved._
_PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION_
When this little volume (my maiden effort) was published five years ago,
it unwittingly originated an angry controversy by raising the question
"Should women ride astride?"
It is astonishing what a great fire a mere spark may kindle, and
accordingly the war, on what proved to be a very vexed subject, waged
fast and furious. The picture papers inserted cleverly-illustrated
articles _pro._ and _con._; the peace of families was temporarily
wrecked, for people were of course divided in their opinions, and bitter
things were said by both sides concerning a very simple and harmless
matter. For a time it seemed as though the "Ayes" would win; but
eventually appearances carried the day, and women still use side saddles
when on horseback, though the knickerbockers and short skirts (only far
shorter) I advocated for rough country riding are now constantly worn by
the many female equestrians who within the last couple of years have
mounted bicycles.
It is nearly four years since, from an hotel window in Copenhagen, I
saw, to my great surprise, for the first time a woman astride a bicycle!
How strange it seemed! Paris quickly followed suit, and now there is a
perfect army of women bicyclists in that fair capital; after a decent
show of hesitation England dropped her prejudices, and at the present
minute, clad in unnecessarily masculine costume, almost without a
murmur, allows her daughters to scour the country in quest of fresh air
astride a bicycle.
If women may ride an iron steed thus attired, surely they might be
permitted to bestride a horse in like manner clothed, and in like
fashion.
In past times women have ridden in every possible position, and in every
possible costume. They have ridden sideways on both the near and off
sides, they have ridden astride (as the Mexicans, Indians, Tartars,
Roumanians, Icelanders, &c., do to-day), and they have also ridden
pillion. Queen Elizabeth rode thus behind the Earl of Leicester on
public occasions, in a full hoop skirt, low-necked bodice, and large
ruffs. Nevertheless, she dispensed with a cavalier when out hunting, at
the ripe age of seventy-six.
When hunting, hawking, or at tournaments, women in the middle ages
always rode astride in this country, reserving their side saddles merely
for state functions. Judging from old pictures, they then mounted
arrayed in full ball dresses, in long-veiled headdresses (time of
Edward II.), and in flowing skirts, while their heads were often
ornamented with huge plumed hats.
Formerly, every church door, every roadside inn, had its horse block or
"jumping-on stone"--called in Kent and some other southern counties the
"joist stone," and in Scotland the "louping-on stane." These were
necessary in the olden days of heavy armour, and at a time when women
rode astride. Men can now mount alone, although the struggles of a small
man to climb to the top of a big horse sometimes are mightily
entertaining; but women have to trust to any capable or incapable man
who can assist them into their saddles.
Fashion is ephemeral. Taste and public opinion having no corporal
identity, are nothing but the passing fancy of a given generation.
Dress to a woman always seems an important matter, and to be well
dressed it is necessary to be suitably clothed. Of course breeches, high
boots or leggings are essential in riding; but a neatly arranged divided
skirt, reaching well below the knee, can be worn over these articles,
and the effect produced is anything but inelegant. Of one thing we may
be certain, namely, that whenever English women summon up enough courage
to ride their horses man fashion again, every London tailor will
immediately set himself to design becoming and useful divided skirts for
the purpose.
I strongly advocate the abolition of the side saddle for the country,
hunting, or rough journeys, for three reasons--1st, safety; 2nd,
comfort; 3rd, health.
I. Of course nothing is easier under ordinary circumstances than to
"stick on" a side saddle, because the pommels almost hold one there:
herein lies much danger. In the case of a horse falling, for instance, a
woman (although doubtless helped by the tight skirts of the day) cannot
extricate herself. She is caught in the pommels or entangled by the
stirrups, both of which calamities mean dragging, and often result in a
horrible death.
II. Miss Bird, in her famous book of travels, tells us how terribly her
back suffered from hard riding on a side-saddle, and how easily she
accomplished the same distances when, disregarding conventionalities,
she adopted a man's seat.
The wife of a well-known Consul-General, who, in company with her
husband, rode in similar fashion from Shanghai to St. Petersburgh
through Siberia, always declared such a feat would have been impossible
for her to achieve on a side-saddle. Further, the native women of almost
all countries ride astride to this day, as they did in England in the
fourteenth century.
My own experience as to comfort will be found in the following pages,
and I can only add that greater knowledge has strengthened my opinion.
III. Cross riding has been considered injurious to health by a few
members of the medical profession, but the majority hold a different
opinion.
When discussing the subject with Sir John Williams--one of the greatest
authorities on the diseases of women--he said, "I do not see that any
harm could arise from women riding like men. Far from it. I cannot
indeed conceive why the side saddle was ever invented at all." What more
could be urged in favour of cross riding.
Do we not all know that many girls become crooked when learning to ride,
and have to mount on the off side in order to counteract the mischief.
Is this not proof in itself of how unnatural the position must be?
As women ride at the present moment, horses with sore backs are
unfortunately no rarity. It is true these galls are caused by bad
riding; still, such things would be avoided with a man's saddle, which
is far lighter than a woman's, and easier to carry, because the rider's
weight is not on one side, but equally distributed--a great comfort to
the horse's loins and withers.
We all know that a woman's horse is far sooner knocked up with a hard
day than one ridden by a man, although the man is probably the heavier
weight of the two, and this merely because he is properly balanced.
Since this little book made its first appearance, many ladies have
followed the advice therein contained, and visited "the most volcanic
region of the earth," peeped at Iceland's snow-clad peaks and deeply
indented fjords, made acquaintance with its primitive people, and ridden
their shaggy ponies. Practically Iceland remains the same to-day as it
was a century ago. Time passes unheeded within its borders, and a visit
to the country is like returning to the Middle Ages. Excepting in the
capital, to all intents and purposes, no change is to be noted; and even
there the main square opposite the governor's house forms the chief
cod-fish drying-ground, while every summer the same odours ascend from
the process as greeted travellers of yore.
Thanks, however, to the courtesy of a couple of friends, I am able to
mention a few innovations. Dr. Karl Grossman, who travelled through the
north-west of the island, on geology intent, has kindly furnished me
with excellent photographs of ponies.
Mr. T. J. Jeaffreson, who knows the island well, intends before joining
Mr. Frederick Jackson's polar expedition, to explore and cross the
interior of Iceland from east to west during the winter of 1894-95, on
or about the 68th parallel, traversing the practically unknown districts
of Storis-anch, Spengis-andr, and O-dadahraimm, and returning across the
Vatna Jokull or Great Ice Desert. His reasons for wishing to cross in
the winter are, first, that in summer ponies must be used for the
journey, and they could not carry sufficient food and fuel for the
expedition as well as fodder for themselves; second, the roughness of
the ground and the weight of the burdens would necessitate very short
distances being traversed each day.
Mr. Jeaffreson will, as did Dr. Nansen when he crossed Greenland, use
ski and Canadian snow-shoes, and drag his own sledges, in preference to
using ponies or dogs. We may look for an interesting volume on the
natural history of Iceland from his pen.
Some slight but desirable improvements have been effected in the Capital
Reykjavik, the most important being the erection of quite a nice little
hotel "Iseland," which is kept by Halburg, who speaks excellent English,
and whose son, formerly a waiter in this country, is a good sportsman
and guide. Ponies are supplied at this hotel.
The chief guide in Iceland is now Thorgrimmer Goodmanson. He speaks
several languages fluently, and is by profession the English and Latin
schoolmaster; during the summer months, nevertheless, he acts as guide.
The museum has been much enlarged, and is now located in the House of
Parliament.
There is a new hospital, and very good public washing sheds have been
erected for the town at the hot springs about a mile distant.
There are now several shops, perhaps a dozen, and among them an
excellent sporting outfitters, where English cartridges and salmon flies
can be procured.
Most of the pony track from Meijkjavik to Akureyri has been marked by
stone cairns which show black against the winter's snow; and as there is
now a post for nine months of the year (the boats running occasionally
in the winter), letters are carried on horseback across from the
capital to Akureyri every four weeks.
The "Camöens" runs no longer, but the Danish boats stop at Leith once a
fortnight (excepting during January, February, and March, when the
island is ice-bound), and after calling at three places in the Faroës
and at Westmann Islands (weather permitting) go straight to Reykjavik.
The road from the capital to the Geysers is as rough as ever, but at
Thingvalla Parsonage two or three little cabin bed-rooms have been put
up, beds being very preferable to the floor in the opinion of weary
travellers.
Tents are still necessary at the Geysers, although a two-roomed shed is
in process of erection for the accommodation of visitors.
The Stroker Geyser, which stopped for some time, is now working again,
and is kept covered with a little lattice wood lid.
Mr. Jeaffreson told me that at Yellowstone Park, in America, visitors
are carefully watched to see that they do not make the geysers work
artificially by means of soap. [Footnote: Hardly explicable in such
small quantities by chemistry or physics.] Remembering this experience
the last time he went to Iceland, he packed some 2lb. bars of common
soap among his luggage.
"When I got to the Geysers," he continued, "the dirty old Icelander
guarding them asked me for 5 kroner to make the Stroker play. When I
refused his request he became most abusive, but, seeing I was
inexorable, finally went away, declaring the geyser would never play
unless I paid him, and I declaring as emphatically that it would, and
directly too.
"As soon as he was at a safe distance I looked up my bars of soap, and
dropping a couple of them under the lid, awaited the result. Very
shortly a hiss and a groan were heard, and up went the boiling water,
sending the wooden grating into the air.
"Back rushed the dirty man, not knowing whether to abuse or worship me
as a worker of miracles. He was profoundly impressed, and finally
declared he had never seen Stroker play so well before, but----'Was it
the Devil who had worked the game?'
"I had not enough soap left to try the big geyser, so waited a couple of
days to see it play. Fortunately it did so in the end."
If the story of Stroker spread, which it is sure to do in such a very
superstitious country, Mr. Jeaffreson will be regarded with a certain
amount of awe when he starts on his ski (snow-shoes) expedition next
winter.
Although his proposed trip is somewhat dangerous, I hope he may return
as happily as Dr. Nansen did from Greenland, and extract as much
pleasure out of his skilöbning as we contrived to do by visiting Norway
when that glorious land was covered with snow and bound by ice.
When I pen these last lines, on July 12, 1894, I have just returned from
seeing Frederick Jackson and his gallant followers steam away down
Thames in their quest of the North Pole. A party of friends and several
leading Arctic explorers assembled at Cannon-street Station this morning
to see the English Polar Expedition off. Five minutes before the train
left, Frederick Jackson, who having discarded the frock coat and top hat
which had earned for him the reputation of "resembling a smart guardsman
with handsome bronzed features," appeared upon the scene with his
favourite brother. To-day the leader of the expedition looked like an
English yachtsman in blue serge; but he did not personally provoke so
much comment as his luggage. All the heavy things were already on board
the "Windward," anchored off Greenhithe. When the hero of the hour
arrived, a large Inverness cape on his arm, carrying a bundle of fur
rugs, his only article of luggage was a large tin bath!
"A bath," we cried.
"Yes," he laughingly replied, "I've had a small bath-room built on the
ship, and when we get into our winter quarters on Bell Island I shall
use my 'baby's bath.' I can rough it, and I have roughed it for years,
but there is one thing I can't go without--a good tub."
What a true Englishman!
Frederick Jackson was in the best of spirits, and never gave way for a
moment, although those many, many good-byes exchanged with intimate
friends must have been a sore trial. In spite of his tremendous
self-control, he is strangely tender-hearted and affectionate by nature.
When we reached Greenhithe it was raining; but the boats from the
"Worcester," manned by smart lads, were waiting for us, and with hard
pulling--for the tide was running fast--we were all soon clambering up a
rope ladder to the "Windward's" decks. There was not much room. Food at
full rations (6-1/2 lb. per man per diem) for eight men for four years
fills a good space, and five or six tons of cod liver oil biscuits for
the dogs, twelve tons of compressed hay for the ponies, sledges, tents,
boats, clothing, &c., was more than the hold could accommodate, and some
of the things strewed the deck.
There was considerable fun getting the shaggy black retrievers on board,
for they could not walk up a rope ladder, and were almost too big to
carry.
Just as we were all leaving to go on board the "Worcester" and watch the
final start, it was discovered that one of the picked eight of the land
party had never turned up!
Had he lost heart, or made a mistake as to the time of departure?
Great was the consternation, and eagerly all eyes were turned to the
shore; but still he came not. As it afterwards transpired, he had missed
his train; and, far from his courage having failed at the last moment,
so eager was he to be off, he travelled on to Gravesend, where, thanks
to the courtesy of an official of high rank, he was put on board a
gunboat, and raced down the Thames, just managing to get alongside the
Arctic ship before it was too late.
From H.M.S. "Worcester" we watched the anchor weighed, and as the boys
manned the rigging of the two training ships, they sent up a tremendous
roar of cheers. Flags were flying on every side, for several yachts had
come to see the start. "God Save the Queen" sounded across the water
from the land, and the sun came out and shone brightly as the stout
whaler "Windward" steamed away with her party of Polar explorers in the
best of spirits.
A couple of months hence they will be settling down in their winter
quarters in Franz Josef Land, there to wait through the Arctic darkness
for the return of the sun, when they will push on towards the North
Pole, leaving a chain of depôts behind them.
Everyone must wish them "God speed."
They may meet Dr. Nansen, and Mr. Jackson was immensely amused when I
handed him a letter for my good friend--addressed
DR. FRIDTJOF NANSEN,
NORTH POLE.
Kindly favoured by F. G. Jackson.
How strange it will be if these two adventurous men really meet and
shake hands beneath the Polar star! May good fortune attend them, and
their enthusiasm be rewarded.
E. B. T.
LONDON, _12th July, 1894_.
_LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS._
PAGE
PORTRAIT OF AUTHOR (_Frontispiece_) _Herbert Schmalz_
FIRST VIEW OF ICELAND _Author_ 28
AKUREYRI _Dr. Grossman (photograph)_ 32
NATIVE WOMAN _Herbert Schmalz_ 34
THE FERRY _Dr. Grossman_ 37
PONIES FORDING RIVER " 63
OUR MODE OF RIDING _G. D. Giles_ 66
ICELANDIC FARM _Author_ 74
DRANGEY FROM REYKIR " 79
HRUTA FJORD AND FARM " 86
SNAEFELL JÖKULL " 90
REYKJAVIK _F. P. Fellows_ 91
THINGVALLA PARSONAGE _Author_ 114
PONIES CROSSING LAKE _Dr. Grossman_ 117
STROKER IN ERUPTION _Author_ 122
NATIVE IMPLEMENTS " 132
DIAGRAM OF GEYSERS _George Harley, F.R.S._ 164
MAP OF ICELAND.
_CONTENTS._
CHAPTER I. PAGE
Our Start--Description of Party--Messrs R. & D. Slimon,
of Leith--Kit and Provisions--Slimon's Ticket
Office--Non-Arrival of One of the Party--Final Preparations, 1
CHAPTER II.
Under Weigh--Price of Tickets--Crew and General
Accommodation--Rough Weather--Shelter in Sinclair
Bay--Letters taken off by Fishing Smack--Fellow
Passengers--Sight First Whale--John o' Groat's House, 12
CHAPTER III.
Land Sighted--Man Overboard--His Recovery
described--Iceland Sighted--Temperature and Position of
the Island--Anchored off Akureyri--Icelandic Boat--Male
and Female Costumes, 24
CHAPTER IV.
Akureyri--Pack Ponies--No Wheeled Conveyances--Woman's
Saddle--House Interior--Staple Food--Absence of Domestic
Animals and Timber--An Akureyri Dinner--Constitution of
the Reykjavik Bank--Icelandic and English Money
Table--Gléra Waterfall--Frost Mounds--Shark Oil
Manufactory--Native Artist and Poet--Establishment of an
Icelandic College, 37
CHAPTER V.
Historical Notes--Early History of
Iceland--Population--Commonwealth Established--Conquest
of the Isle of Man--Tynwald Hill--Chronological Dates--A
Curious Custom--Landing of First Christian
Missionary--Roman Catholicism embraced--Annexation to
Norway--Area of the Island--Its Lakes and Rivers, 52
CHAPTER VI.
Sauderkrok--An Auction--Imports and Exports--Experience
in Riding a Man's Saddle--Costume--Sketching--Curiosity
of the Natives--Ride to Reykir--Hot Springs--A Young
Student--Literature and Language--The Sagas, 63
CHAPTER VII.
Reykir--A Farm House--Skyr--Hot Springs utilised for
Washing purposes--A Legend--The Eider
Duck--Hay--Icelandic Flora--Bordeyri--Curious Form of
Hospitality--Emigrants--12th August--Within the Arctic
Circle, 75
CHAPTER VIII.
Reykjavik--Preparations for Visiting the
Geysers--Principal Buildings--Founding of the Town by
'Tugolfi'--A Primitive Newspaper--Start for the
Geysers--Professor Geikie on Icelandic
Volcanoes--Eruptions--Skaptar-Jökull--Lunch in the Valley
of the Seljadalr--Thingvalla Lake--The Almannagya, 92
CHAPTER IX.
Thingvalla--Site of the First Icelandic Parliament--The
Althing--Conversion to Christianity--Abolition of the
Althing--New Constitution of 1874--Thingvalla
Parsonage--Antique Grinding Machine--A Tintron--Dust
Storm--Hot Springs--Arrival at the Geysers, 107
CHAPTER X.
The Geysers--Tents blown down--The Great Geyser--Eruption
of the 'Stroker'--Professor Geikie and Dr Kneeland on
Geysers--Dinner--A Night in a Tent--Hot Springs of the
District--Hecla in the Distance--Farewell to the Geysers, 121
CHAPTER XI.
Farm House--An Icelandic Dairy--Farm Kitchen--A Family
Bedroom--Bruara Bridge--Back to
Reykjavik--Population--The Great Awk--Leave
Iceland--Northern Lights--Land at Granton--Table of
Expenditure, 133
CHAPTER XII.
Volcanoes--The Askja Volcano--Large Fissure in Midge Lake
Desert--Krafla--Skaptar-Jökull--Great Eruption of
1783--Hecla--Thermal Springs--The Usahver, 147
APPENDIX.
'Geysers'--Dr George Harley, F.R.S., 157
[Illustration: Map of ICELAND]
A GIRL'S RIDE IN ICELAND.
CHAPTER I.
OUR START.
As the London season, with its thousand and one engagements, that one
tries to cram into the shortest possible time, draws to a close, the
question uppermost in every one's mind is, 'Where shall we go this
autumn?' And a list of places well trodden by tourists pass through the
brain in rapid succession, each in turn rejected as too far, too near,
too well known, or not embracing a sufficient change of scene.
Switzerland? Every one goes to Switzerland: that is no rest, for one
meets half London there. Germany? The same answer occurs, and so on _ad
infinitum_.
'Suppose we make up a party and visit Iceland?' was suggested by me to
one of my friends on a hot July day as we sat chatting together
discussing this weighty question, fanning ourselves meanwhile under a
temperature of ninety degrees; the position of Iceland, with its
snow-capped hills and cool temperature seeming positively refreshing and
desirable. Mad as the idea seemed when first proposed in mere banter, it
ended, as these pages will prove, by our turning the suggestion into a
reality, and overcoming the difficulties of a trip which will ever
remain engraven on my memory as one of the most agreeable experiences of
my life.
When I ventilated the idea outside my private 'den,' wherein it first
arose, it was treated as far too wild a scheme for serious
consideration--for 'Iceland,' to Londoners, seems much the same in point
of compass as the moon! And there really is some similarity in the
volcanic surface of both. Here, however, the similarity ends, for while
the luminary is indeed inaccessible, the island can easily be reached
without any very insurmountable difficulty.
The somewhat natural opposition which our plan at first met with, only
stimulated our desire the more to carry it into effect. The first step
was to gain the permission of our parents, which, after some reluctance,
was granted, and the necessary ways and means finally voted; our next
was to collect together a suitable party from our numerous friends, and
take all necessary measures to secure the success of the undertaking.
As soon as our purpose became known and discussed among our immediate
circle of friends, many volunteers appeared anxious to share the
triumphs of so novel an enterprise.
Thus our number at first promised to be somewhat larger than we had
anticipated. Happily, however, for its success, as it afterwards proved,
these aspirants for 'fame,' on learning the length of the passage, the
possible discomforts, and other obstacles, dropped off one by one, till
only my brother and myself, with three other friends, remained firm to
our purpose.
It may be well here to introduce our party individually to my readers.
First, my brother, whom, for convenience sake in these pages, I will
call by his Christian name, 'Vaughan,' and whom I looked upon as the
head of the expedition, as, without his protection, I should never have
been allowed to undertake the trip.
He was a medical student in Edinburgh (since fully qualified), and well
suited to the enterprise, being of a scientific turn of mind, as well as
practical and energetic,--a first-rate rider, an oarsman, and a good
sailor, whilst he had spent his vacations for some years in travelling.
My friend Miss T., my sole lady companion, a handsome girl of a
thoroughly good-natured and enterprising disposition, was, on the
contrary, no horsewoman, but the exigencies of a trip in Iceland soon
made her one. She was an excellent German scholar, and a great
assistance to our party in this respect, as the natives could often
understand German, from the resemblance of that language to Danish.
As it proved afterwards, it was really fortunate that we had not more
than two ladies in our party, for a larger number could hardly have met
with the necessary accommodation. Ladies are such rare visitors in
Iceland, that little or no preparation is made for their comfort. The
captain of our vessel told us that during several voyages last year he
had not a single female passenger on board.
H. K. Gordon, an Anglo-Indian, on leave from Calcutta for his health,
was likewise a valuable addition to our number. He was accustomed to
tent life and camping out, and helped us much in similar experiences.
A. L. T., who completed our party, was a keen sportsman, but the
novelties of the trip overbalanced his love for Scotland and the
attractions of the 12th of August--no small sacrifice, especially as our
travelling proved too rapid to enable him to make much use of his gun,
although we often saw game in our various rides.
Of myself, I have only to say that, being worn out with the gaieties of
a London season, I looked forward to a trip to 'Ultima Thule' with
pleasurable anticipations, which were ultimately fully realised.
Five is not a bad number to form a travelling company, and a very happy
five we were, although entirely thrown on our own resources for
twenty-five days. Of course we were often placed in the queerest
positions, over which we laughed heartily; for on starting we agreed
that we would each and all make the best of whatever obstacles we might
encounter, and it is certainly no use going to Iceland, or any other
out-of-the-way place, if one cannot cheerfully endure the absence of
accustomed luxuries. Travellers not prepared to do this had better
remain at home.
The decision once arrived at that Iceland was to be our Autumn
destination, we endeavoured to collect from our travelling friends any
information on the subject, either as regarded route, outfit, or mode of
travelling, and whether the scenery and novelty of the trip were likely
to repay us for the trouble and roughing we should have to undergo; but
unfortunately all our investigations were futile, as we found no one who
had any personal knowledge of the Island. I, however, remembered Dr John
Rae, the famous discoverer of the Franklin remains, was an old friend of
my father's, and therefore wrote to ask him if he could help us in our
difficulties, but his answer was not of a cheering nature, as he had not
been in the Island for twenty-five years, and he had then only crossed
from east to west--from Bevufjord to Kekiaviati, which did not form part
of our route. He further stated he thought it was too arduous an
undertaking for ladies, and dissuaded us from making the attempt.
Failing to obtain any assistance from such a high authority, we
concluded that it would be useless to make any further inquiries among
our personal friends; we were therefore compelled to rely upon our own
resources, and extract what information we could from guide books. Our
inquiry at a London ticket office whether the officials could give us
any particulars as to our route, was equally unsuccessful, the
astonished clerk remarking,--'I was once asked for a ticket to the North
Pole, but I have never been asked for one to Iceland.'
But although we never procured any personal experiences, we found there
was no lack of interesting historical and geological literature
respecting the Island.
Our first step was to place ourselves in communication with Messrs R. D.
Slimon, of Leith, the managers of the Icelandic Steamship Company, from
whom we learnt that the next steamer would start from Leith on the 31st
July (such, at least, was the advertised time and place), but it really
left Granton, some three miles further up the Forth, an hour and a half
later than was originally fixed.
Before proceeding any further, it may be well to mention the important
subjects of outfit and provisions. As we were not going upon a
fashionable tour, it was not necessary to provide ourselves with
anything but what was really needed. Intending travellers must recollect
that, as all inland journeys are performed on ponies, and the luggage
can only be slung across the animals' backs, large boxes or trunks are
out of the question, and it is necessary to compress one's outfit into
the smallest possible dimensions. The following list will be found
quite sufficient for the journey.
A thick serge dress, short and plain for rough wear, with a cloth one in
change; a tight-fitting thick jacket, good mackintosh, and very warm fur
cloak; one pair of high mackintosh riding boots (like fisherman's
waders), necessary for crossing rivers and streams; a yachting cap or
small tight-fitting hat, with a projecting peak to protect the eyes from
the glare--blue glasses, which are a great comfort; thick gauntlet
gloves; a habit skirt is not necessary.
My brother has given me a list of things he found most useful. Two rough
homespun or serge suits: riding breeches, which are absolutely
indispensable; riding boots laced up the centre, and large, as they are
continually getting wet; flannel shirts; thick worsted stockings; a warm
ulster, and mackintosh.
Instead of trusting to the pack boxes provided by the natives, a soft
waterproof 'hold-all,' or mule boxes, would be an additional comfort.
On one of our long rides, two pack ponies came into collision, they both
fell, the path being very narrow, and rolled over one another. To our
horror, one pack box was broken to pieces, while another lost its
bottom, and there in all the dust lay tooth brushes, sponge bags, etc.,
not to mention other necessaries of the toilet.
Rugs, mackintosh sheets, and pillows are required for camping out, also
towels. Although the Icelanders provide tents, it is advisable to take
your own if feasible. Provisions are absolutely requisite--tinned meats
and soup, and a cooked ham or tongues; tea, sugar, cocoa, biscuits (of a
hard make), and as no white bread is to be procured, it is as well to
induce the ship's steward to provide some loaves before starting on an
expedition. Butter can be obtained at Reikjavik. Japanned plates and
mugs, knives, forks, and spoons, must not be forgotten. We provided
ourselves with wine and spirits, which we found of great use to face the
cold.
Our purchases being made and our party complete, we arranged to start
from Euston on Thursday, 29th July, and go north by the night train. My
brother, however, was to meet us at Edinburgh, as he had been away in
his small yacht, coasting near Dunbar. We had, however, sent him all
particulars as to our plans. Under the best circumstances, and despite
sleeping saloons, and other luxuries, it is a long and tedious journey
to Scotland, and we were not sorry to find it at an end, as, with a puff
and a shriek, our train entered the Waverley Station, Edinburgh.
Notwithstanding our fatigue, we took a somewhat regretful look at that
steam marvel of civilisation, which had brought us thus far on our
journey, and to which we now bade farewell for a month, at least, for a
much ruder and more primitive mode of travelling.
Some friends had kindly offered to put us up during our short stay, so
we made our way to their house, and were soon enjoying the luxuries of a
wash and a good breakfast. My brother had arranged to meet us there, but
as he did not put in an appearance, we determined to go in search of him
at his rooms.
Imagine our dismay on arriving there to be told by his landlady that he
had been absent for a week, yachting, and had not yet returned, whilst
all our letters detailing our final plans, and date of arrival in
Edinburgh, were lying unopened on the table.
We at once determined to take energetic measures to discover any tidings
of his whereabouts. As it was necessary to go to Leith to engage cabins
and take tickets, we decided to push on to Granton, where I knew he kept
his boat, and inquire at the Royal Forth Yacht Club if they knew
anything about _The Lily_ and her owner.
A tram car took Miss T. and myself to Leith, and after sundry inquiries,
we found ourselves in front of an ordinary tin-shop, over which the name
'Slimon' was painted in large letters of gold--an unlikely-looking
place, we thought, to take tickets for such an important voyage.
In answer to our inquiries, 'Yes, mum, the office is next door,' was
vouchsafed to us in the broadest Scotch dialect, by a clerk, who
escorted us there, carrying with him a huge bunch of keys, looking more
like a gaoler conducting prisoners, than two ladies innocently
requiring tickets. We were ushered into a dingy little office, where we
found the only occupant was a cat! Our conductor was extremely ignorant,
and unable to supply us with any information, his answer to every
question being, 'I dinna ken,' or 'I canna say.'
I explained to him what anxiety I was in about my missing brother, and
that our party would have to be broken up unless he appeared before the
morrow; consequently, it would be useless for us to purchase tickets
until we heard from him. He blurted out in a broad and almost
unintelligible dialect, which I am unable to reproduce, that we need not
pay until we were on board the steamer, adding, that probably the dead
calm since the previous night had delayed _The Lily_. I knew Vaughan had
intended going out beyond Dunbar, and feared that he might be out in a
gale; but if only becalmed, I felt certain he would somehow manage to
get ashore in the dinghy, and was confident he had ascertained for
himself, independently of our unopened letters, the date of the
steamer's starting, and was too old a traveller to fail his party, and
so spoil the expedition _in toto_.
Rattling over the stones to Granton in a terribly rickety 'machine,' as
our northern friends call their cabs, the first old salt we encountered
on the pier replied to our anxious inquiry, 'Why, that's _The Lily_
sailing round the harbour's mouth,' as at that moment she slowly rounded
the pier.
When Vaughan came ashore, he told us, after running from Dunbar in a
gale, he had been becalmed for two days, and it had taken the whole of
that day to cross 'the Forth.' He had not hurried particularly, however,
thinking we were not travelling North till the next day, no letters
having been forwarded to him. Thus ended happily what might have been a
great catastrophe, and compelled us to abandon the expedition.
That night we returned with him to Edinburgh, and on rising next morning
from probably the last comfortable bed we should enjoy for some time, we
were cheered by a bright sun and cloudless sky--a pleasant forecast for
the voyage in prospect. We made several purchases in Princes Street,
inclusive of an extra deck chair, warm rugs, etc., and received an
influx of '_bon voyage_' telegrams from our London friends--the last
home news we should get for a month. Yes, four weeks is a long time
never to hear of one's nearest and dearest, or they to hear of you. What
might not happen in the interval? So much, indeed, that it passes
contemplation, and we had best leave it, and content ourselves with the
fact that we had left every one well, and everything all right when we
started.
At the pier we found the tender waiting to take us to the _Camoens_, the
steamer which was to convey us to the goal of our ambition, namely,
Iceland.
How many and varied were our experiences before we steamed alongside
that pier again!